WO2024008647A1

WO2024008647A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological use of a pyracantha fortuneana extract

Info

Publication number: WO2024008647A1
Application number: PCT/EP2023/068237
Authority: WO
Inventors: Catherine BONNAUD-ROSAYE; Philippe Moussou; Miao SHAO QI
Original assignee: Basf Beauty Care Solutions France Sas
Priority date: 2022-07-04
Filing date: 2023-07-03
Publication date: 2024-01-11

Abstract

The present invention relates to the novel cosmetic or dermatological use, advantageously topical use, of a Pyracantha fortuneana extract and/or of a composition comprising same for preventing and/or reducing the unattractive and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of the pores of the skin. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic care method comprising the administration of a Pyracantha fortuneana extract or of a composition comprising same. The invention further relates to a Pyracantha fortuneana extract or a dermatological composition comprising same, for the topical use thereof in treating and/or preventing and/or reducing the occurrence of pathologies linked to the appearance of comedones such as acne.

Description

Cosmetic or dermatological use of an extract of Pyracantha fortuneana

TECHNICAL AREA

The present invention relates to the cosmetic or dermatological use of an extract of Pyracantha fortuneana to prevent and/or reduce unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of skin pores, in particular in cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions, in particular dermatological compositions. .

PRIOR ART

Skin pores are the openings through which secretions from the sebaceous glands and sweat glands flow. They contain a hair follicle and a sebaceous gland. Various external factors such as UV radiation, heat, pollution, but also poor hygiene or an unbalanced diet, and more simply skin aging, can contribute to the dilation of pores, making the skin less smooth and unsightly. Pores become visible and the resulting effect is unsightly. Additionally, intrinsic factors such as androgen hormones and growth factors modulate the activity of sebaceous and sweat glands.

Originally from China, Pyracantha fortuneana is an evergreen shrub belonging to the Rosaceae family. The fruits of Pyracantha fortuneana are used as a fortifier in traditional medicine, to combat digestive and immune problems (Li et al, Food chemistry 366, 2022, review).

Pyracantha fortuneana is used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical fields for its various biological effects, notably as an anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant or even whitening agent.

Patent CN 105362206 describes the use of a fruit extract of Pyracantha fortuneana in a cosmetic composition, as an anti-oxidant and anti-aging active ingredient.

Patent application CN 107375095 concerns the use of a Pyracantha fortuneana fruit extract in a cosmetic composition, as an active whitening and moisturizing agent.

Particularly surprisingly, the Applicant has discovered that an extract of Pyracantha fortuneana has the property of preventing and/or reducing the unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of the pores of the skin, in particular to reduce the visibility of the pores of the skin. the skin and/or prevent increased visibility of skin pores and/or maintain and/or improve the uniformity of skin tone. The extract according to the invention also has the advantage of being an easily formulated ingredient, and can be easily manufactured on an industrial scale. It is a topically acceptable active ingredient for the skin, which does not pose an allergy risk.

STATEMENT OF THE INVENTION

The first object of the present invention is the cosmetic use, advantageously topically, of an extract of Pyracantha fortuneana to prevent and/or reduce unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of the pores of the skin.

The term “cosmetic use” means a non-therapeutic use, that is to say one which is not intended for therapeutic use, and is applied to a so-called healthy part of the body, in particular to an area of the skin. called healthy.

The term “healthy skin” or “healthy tissue” means an area of skin, tissue or epidermis, to which the extract or the composition according to the invention comprising said extract is applied, which is said to be “non-pathological”. by a dermatologist, that is to say not presenting any infection, scar, disease or skin condition such as candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, acne or dermatitis, or sores or injuries.

“Skin” means any part of the body and/or face, including the scalp.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “topical route” means the direct local application and/or vaporization of the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana or of the composition comprising it according to the invention on the surface of the skin area. treat.

According to the invention, an effective amount of Pyracantha fortuneana extract is used to prevent and/or reduce unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of skin pores.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, an effective quantity of Pyracantha fortuneana extract is used to reduce the visibility of the pores of the skin and/or prevent the increase in the visibility of the pores of the skin and/or maintain and/or improve the homogeneity of skin tone.

The term “preventing and/or reducing unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of skin pores” is understood to mean reducing the visibility of skin pores and/or the formation of blackheads and/or preventing the increase of the visibility of the pores of the skin and/or maintain and/or improve the homogeneity of the skin tone and/or refine the texture of the skin.

In the sense of the present invention, “reducing the visibility of pores” means tightening the skin pores, that is to say reducing the number of pores and/or the opening diameter and/or the area and/or density of the pores. pores on the surface of the skin, and/or prevent the dilation of skin pores. The extract according to the invention therefore makes it possible to reduce the number of pores and/or the opening diameter and/or the area and/or the density of the pores on the surface of the skin.

By “preventing the increase in the visibility of the pores of the skin” is meant to totally or partially inhibit the increase in the number of pores and/or the opening diameter, in particular the dilation of the pores of the skin, and/or the increase in the area and/or density of skin pores.

The dilation of skin pores can be induced by intrinsic factors such as hormonal variations or increased sebum secretion, or extrinsic factors such as high or increasing external temperatures, UV rays. , pollution, chemical aggressive agents, or even the administration of drugs modifying the keratinization mechanism. Pyracantha fortuneana extract helps prevent the dilation of skin pores.

The visibility of the pores of the skin can be demonstrated in vivo by an evaluation called "scoring" by a dermatologist on a predefined area after application of a composition comprising the extract according to the invention. It can also be demonstrated by an objective instrumental method through image analysis which makes it possible to extract and quantify specific pore area and density parameters from high-resolution photographs of the volunteers' faces before and after application of 'a composition comprising the extract according to the invention.

The area of skin pores can also be measured in vivo by imaging, in particular by the fringe projection technique.

For example, the visibility of skin pores can be assessed with VISIA-CR, by measuring through image analysis (Image-Pro Plus) the proportion of the area occupied by pores and the number of pores on the cheeks ( pore density). A decrease in these values in comparison with the initial value at OJ and/or the control indicates a reduction in the visibility of the pores.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana according to the invention is in an effective quantity to reduce the visibility of the pores of the skin and/or prevent the increase in the visibility of the pores of the skin, when we observe a reduction of at least 3%, preferably at least 4%, in the visibility of the pores of the skin after 56 days of application of the extract according to the invention, in comparison with the visibility of the pores evaluated before application. Preferably the extract is prepared under the conditions described in Example 1, in particular in Example la), more preferably formulated in the form of a cosmetic composition such as that described in Example 2.

In the sense of the present invention, “maintain and/or improve the homogeneity of the complexion”, prevent the reduction and/or increase the uniformity of the complexion and/or refine the texture of the skin, in particular by tightening the skin pores and/or reducing the number of pores and/or the opening diameter and/or the area and/or density of the pores on the surface of the skin, and/or by reducing the dilation skin pores and/or prevent and/or reduce imperfections in the complexion linked to the pores of the skin, such as blackheads, redness, irregularities in the complexion or scar marks, linked to the pores of the skin, so as to make skin tone more even.

The measurement of the homogeneity of the skin tone can for example be measured by image analysis. This in vivo measurement method consists of taking high-resolution photographs before and after application of the product tested. On the basis of these digital photographs, an image analysis makes it possible to extract and quantify parameters specific to the homogeneity of the complexion such as the variance of the optical density. For example, the homogeneity of the complexion can be assessed by VISIA-CR, by measuring the variance of the optical density (OD) on the cheeks through image analysis (Image-Pro Plus). The smaller the OD variance, the more uniform and homogeneous the complexion. A reduction in this parameter therefore indicates a more even complexion.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana according to the invention is in an effective quantity to maintain and/or improve the homogeneity of the skin when an improvement of at least 10% is observed. , preferably at least 15%, of the homogeneity of the complexion after 56 days of application of the extract according to the invention, in comparison with the homogeneity of the complexion evaluated before application. Preferably the extract is prepared under the conditions described in the example, particularly in example la), preferably formulated in the form of a cosmetic composition such as that described in example 2.

Pyracantha fortuneana extract can be any part of the plant, such as roots and/or aerial parts including leaves, flowers, fruits, stem or mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the Pyracantha fortuneana extract is a fruit extract.

The extract according to the present invention is obtained by any extraction method known to those skilled in the art chosen from hot decoction, maceration, extrusion, subcritical extraction, extraction assisted by ultrasound, with or without grinding such as ultrasonic grinding or using a blender. Advantageously, the extract will be obtained by maceration with stirring.

“Subcritical” extraction means extraction in the presence of water, under conditions of temperature greater than 100°C and pressure less than or equal to 22.1 MPa (221 bars), such that the water remains at the same time. liquid state but has a lower viscosity and surface tension than water at room temperature, increasing its dielectric constant.

The extraction may be carried out from dry or fresh plant material, advantageously dry, in quantities of 1% to 99% by weight, advantageously of 1% to 50%, very advantageously of 1% to 20%, preferably 5% to 10% by weight of plant material relative to the total weight of the plant material and the extraction solvent.

The extraction can be carried out at a temperature ranging from 4°C to 300°C, including ambient temperature, that is to say a temperature between 18°C and 25°C, in particular around 20 °C. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the extraction will be carried out at a temperature ranging from 20°C to 150°C, preferably from 20°C to 80°C.

The extraction can be carried out during a period of a few seconds to 24 hours, preferably from 1 minute to 12 hours, more preferably during a period of 10 minutes to 5 hours, more preferably during a period ranging from 1 hour to 3 hours, and advantageously for 2 hours.

The extraction can be repeated as many times as necessary with conditions identical or different from the first extraction, preferably the extraction is renewed once, under the same conditions as the first extraction.

The solvent may be chosen from water, a solvent or a mixture of solvents, preferably the solvent is a protic polar solvent. It is advantageously chosen from water, an alcohol, a glycol, a polyol, a water/alcohol, water/glycol or water/polyol mixture (such as water mixed with ethanol, glycerol and/or butylene glycol and/or or other glycols such as xylitol and/or propanediol, etc.) from 99/1 to 1/99 (w/w), advantageously it is a water/alcohol mixture, more advantageously a water/ethanol mixture .

According to one embodiment, the water/alcohol, water/glycol or water/polyol mixture, in particular water/alcohol, is between 20/80 and 60/40, advantageously between 20/80 and 50/50 (w/w ).

According to one embodiment, the water/ethanol mixture is between 20/80 and 60/40, advantageously between 20/80 and 50/50 (w/w).

According to another embodiment, the extraction is carried out by maceration in a water/ethanol mixture, preferably at a temperature between 20°C and 80°C, advantageously for 2 hours, preferably the extraction is repeated once.

In particular, the extract is obtained by hydro-alcoholic extraction. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “extract obtained by hydro-alcoholic extraction” means any extract obtained by extraction with an ethanolic solution containing more than 40% by weight, advantageously at least 50% by weight, in particular at least 60%. by weight, of ethanol relative to the total weight of the solution, even more advantageously not containing glycol and/or polyol. The extraction according to the invention with an ethanolic solution is not an ethanol precipitation of an aqueous extract.

According to a preferred mode, the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is used alone, in particular in the form of active ingredient. Said extract according to the invention can be in dry form, that is to say in powder form.

According to another preferred mode, the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is in the form of an active ingredient in dry form, that is to say in powder form, advantageously in association with maltodextrin, preferably with a content of extracted from 1% to 99% (w/w), more preferably with an extract content of 1% to 50% (w/w), advantageously from 1% to 25% (w/w) and even more advantageously from 5 % to 15% (w/w) of extract relative to the total weight of powder, which includes both extract and maltodextrin.

According to a preferred alternative mode, the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana according to the invention can be found in liquid form and/or diluted in a solvent preferably in an extract content of 0.1% to 99% (w/w), more preferably in an extract content of 0.1% to 50% (w/w), advantageously in an extract content of 0.1% to 20% (w/w) and even more advantageously in a content of extract from 1% to 10% (w/w) relative to the total weight of liquid comprising the extract and the solvent. Preferably, this solvent contains less than 50% (w/w) of water, still preferably less than 40% (w/w) of water. Very preferably, this solvent is hydroglyceric or hydroglycolic.

According to the invention, the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana according to the invention can be used alone, in the form of active ingredient and/or in a cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical composition, in particular dermatological.

The term “cosmetic composition” means a non-therapeutic composition, that is to say one which is not intended for therapeutic use and which is applied to a so-called healthy part of the body, in particular to an area of the skin. , say healthy.

According to one embodiment, the use of the extract according to the present invention and/or of a composition comprising it is characterized in that it is a topical use, in particular on specific parts of the body chosen from legs, feet, armpits, hands, stomach, arms, thighs, hips, buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, torso, back, neck , neckline, scalp and/or facial skin, including forehead, cheeks, nose, temples, T-zone (forehead, nose and chin), external ear canal and/or chin.

In an advantageous embodiment, the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is in the form of a cosmetic composition comprising said extract at a concentration of lxl0 ^-4 % and 10% (w/w), preferably between lxl0 ^-3 % and 10% (w/w), advantageously between lxl0 ^-3 % and 3% (p/w), more preferably between 0.01% and 3% (w/w), and even more preferably between 0.01% and 1% (w/w), relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient. Advantageously, the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is in the form of a cosmetic composition comprising said extract at a concentration between lxl0 ^-4 % and 3% (w/w), relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition comprising in in addition to at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more cosmetic active ingredients such as active ingredients for sensitive skin, active ingredients improving the skin barrier, active ingredients improving the comfort of the skin, anti-redness active ingredients, anti-redness active ingredients, -irritation, whitening active ingredients, active ingredients improving skin radiance, active ingredients intended for oily skin, active ingredients improving skin exfoliation, moisturizing active ingredients, anti-aging active ingredients, anti-free radical active ingredients, agents protecting fibroblast growth factor (FGF), agents stimulating the activity and/or proliferation of fibroblasts and/or thermal waters.

The subject of the present invention is a method of cosmetic care and/or treatment comprising the application topically or orally, to at least one area of skin, of a Pyracantha fortuneana extract according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition. comprising it, to prevent and/or reduce unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of the pores of the skin, in particular to reduce the visibility of the pores of the skin and/or prevent the increase in the visibility of the pores of the skin. skin and/or maintain and/or improve the homogeneity of the complexion.

Advantageously, the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana according to the invention, preferably in the form of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, is used in regular topical application and preferably at least once a day, advantageously twice a day, for at least 28 days, preferably for 36 days, more preferably for at least 45 days, more preferably for at least 56 days.

The cosmetic treatment method according to the invention for preventing and/or reducing unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of the pores of the skin, in particular for reducing the visibility of the pores of the skin and/or preventing the increase in the visibility of the pores of the skin and/or maintaining and/or improving the homogeneity of the complexion advantageously comprises the following steps:

- The identification on the individual of an area of healthy skin, for which it is desired to prevent and/or reduce the unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of the pores of the skin, in particular reduce the visibility of the pores of the skin and/or prevent the increase in the visibility of the pores of the skin and/or maintain and/or improve the homogeneity of the complexion,

- Topical application to this area of healthy skin, of an effective quantity of Pyracantha fortuneana extract according to the invention, in the form of active ingredient, used alone or in combination with maltodextrin or diluted in a solvent or a mixture of solvents or a cosmetic composition comprising said extract.

In another embodiment, the extract according to the invention can be incorporated into a cosmetic composition.

Advantageously, the Pyracantha fortuneana extract or the composition comprising it according to the invention is intended to be applied topically to specific parts of the body chosen from the legs, feet, armpits, hands, stomach, arms, thighs, hips, buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, torso, back, neck, décolleté, scalp and/or facial skin, including the forehead, cheeks, nose, temples, T zone (forehead, nose and chin), external ear canal and/or chin.

Advantageously, the extract and/or the composition comprising it is intended to be applied to an area of healthy tissue having undesired visibility of the pores, such as an area for which a reduction of at least 3%, preferably of at least 4% of the visibility of the pores is sought, and/or on an area of healthy tissue presenting a non-homogeneous complexion, such as an area for which an improvement of at least 10%, preferably of at least 15% is sought.

Thus, advantageously the cosmetic composition is intended for topical application to healthy skin.

Alternatively, the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms conventionally used for topical application.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic care process according to the invention is such that the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is in the form of a cosmetic composition comprising said extract, at a concentration between lxl0 ^-4 % and 10% ( p/p), preferably between lxl0 ^-3 % and 10% (p/p), advantageously between lxl0 ^-3 % and 3% (p/p), more preferably between 0.01% and 3% (p/p) , and even more preferably between 0.01% and 1% (w/w), relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient. Advantageously, the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is in the form of a cosmetic composition comprising said extract at a concentration between lxl0 ^-4 % and 3% (w/w), relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition comprising in in addition to at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “cosmetically acceptable” excipient means a topically acceptable compound and/or solvent, that is to say an ingredient suitable for topical application, non-toxic, non-irritating, n does not induce an allergic response, which is not chemically unstable, for healthy skin.

The cosmetic treatment process uses the Pyrancatha fortuneana extract according to the invention.

The invention also relates to an extract of Pyracantha fortuneana or a dermatological composition comprising it, for its use topically for the treatment and/or prevention and/or reduction of the occurrence of pathologies linked to the appearance blackheads, such as acne.

The invention also relates to the use of an extract of Pyracantha fortuneana, for the manufacture of a topical medication or a topical dermatological composition comprising it, for the treatment and/or prevention and/or reduction of the occurrence of pathologies linked to the appearance of comedones, such as acne.

The invention also relates to a pharmaceutical or dermatological treatment method for the treatment and/or prevention and/or reduction of the occurrence of pathologies linked to the appearance of comedones, such as acne, in a subject in in need, said method comprising the topical administration of an effective quantity of an extract of Pyracantha fortuneana or of a dermatological composition comprising it, to said subject in need thereof.

In particular the extract is an extract according to the invention more particularly as described and/or defined above in the present description.

According to one embodiment, the extract according to the invention is characterized in that it is in the form of a dermatological composition comprising at least one dermatologically acceptable excipient.

According to one embodiment, the extract according to the present invention is not intended for use on sensitive skin, inflamed skin and/or skin prone to atopic dermatitis.

According to one embodiment, the composition is characterized in that the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is present in said composition at a content between lxl0 ^-4 % and 10% (w/w), preferably between lxl0 ^-3 % and 10 % (p/p), advantageously between lxl0 ^-3 % and 3% (p/p), more preferably between 0.01% and 3% (p/p), and even more preferably between 0.01% and 1% (w/w), relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is present in said composition at a content of lxl0 ^-4 % and 3% (w/w), relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention comprises one or more cosmetic (or dermatological) active ingredients such as moisturizing active ingredients, anti-aging active ingredients, anti-radical active ingredients, protective agents of fibroblast growth factor ( FGF), agents stimulating the activity and/or proliferation of fibroblasts and/or thermal waters.

The cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention can be chosen from an aqueous or oily solution, an aqueous cream or gel or an oily gel, in particular a shower gel, a shampoo; a milk ; an emulsion, a microemulsion or a nanoemulsion, in particular oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple or siliconized; a mask; a serum; lotion; liquid soap; a dermatological bar; an ointment ; a balm; a butter; a foam; a patch; an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, pasty or solid, for example in the form of makeup powders, rods or sticks, in particular in the form of lipstick.

It can also be a makeup product or a makeup remover product.

The compositions according to the invention may contain any suitable solvent and/or any suitable vehicle and/or any suitable excipient, optionally in combination with other compounds of interest.

Advantageously, the extract according to the invention is not used in combination with an extract of dragon fruit and/or rose and/or maca and/or loofah water.

Therefore, for these compositions, the excipient contains for example at least one compound chosen from the group comprising preservatives, emollients, emulsifiers, surfactants, moisturizers, thickeners, conditioners, mattifying agents, stabilizers , antioxidants, texturing agents, shine agents, film-forming agents, solubilizers, pigments, dyes, perfumes and sun filters. These excipients are preferably chosen from the group consisting of amino acids and their derivatives, polyglycerols, esters, polymers and cellulose derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrins, lactoperoxidases, stabilizers based on sucrose, vitamins E and its derivatives, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiables, phytosterols, plant esters, silicones and its derivatives, protein hydrolysates, Jojoba oil and its derivatives derivatives, lipo/water-soluble esters, betaines, aminoxides, plant extracts, sucrose esters, titanium dioxides, glycines, and parabens, and more preferably from the group consisting of butylene glycol, steareth-2, steareth-21, glycol-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, butylene glycol, natural tocopherols, glycerin, dihydroxycetyl sodium phosphate, isopropyl hydroxycetyl ether, glycol stearate, triisononanoin, octyl cocoate, polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, laureth-7, a carbomer, propylene glycol, glycerol, bisabolol, a dimethicone, sodium hydroxide, PEG 30-dipolyhydroxysterate, capric/caprylic triglycerides, cetearyl octanoate, dibutyl adipate, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, magnesium sulfate, EDTA, cyclomethicone, xanthan gum, citric acid, sodium lauryl sulfate, waxes and oils minerals, isostearyl isostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propylene glycol isostearate, PEG 8, beeswax, hydrogenated palm heart oil glycerides, hydrogenated palm oil glycerides, lanolin oil, sesame oil, cetyl lactate, lanolin alcohol, castor oil, titanium dioxide, lactose, sucrose, low density polyethylene, isotonic saline solution, and mixtures thereof .

Many cosmetically active ingredients are known to those skilled in the art to improve the health and/or physical appearance of the skin (including the scalp). Those skilled in the art know how to formulate cosmetic and/or dermatological compositions to obtain the best effects. On the other hand, these compounds can have a synergistic effect when combined with each other. These combinations are also covered by the present invention. The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992) describes various cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry, which are particularly suitable for topical use. Examples of these classes of ingredients include, but are not limited to, the following compounds: abrasives, absorbents, compounds for aesthetic purposes such as perfumes, pigments, dyes, essential oils, astringents, etc. (for example: clove oil, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus oil, eugenol, menthyl lactate, witch hazel distillate), anti-acne agents, anti-flocculating agents, anti-foaming agents, antimicrobial agents (for example: iodopropyl butylcarbamate), antioxidants, binders, biological additives, buffering agents, bulking agents, chelating agents, additives, biocidal agents, denaturants, thickeners, and vitamins, and derivatives or equivalents thereof, film-forming materials, polymers, opacifying agents, pH adjusters, reducing agents, depigmenting or lightening agents (for example: hydroquinone, kojic acid, ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucosamine), conditioning agents (for example: humectants).

The cosmetic or dermatological composition may also comprise other cosmetic and/or dermatological agents having the same properties and inducing a synergistic effect or not with the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana according to the invention, or cosmetic agents with complementary effects.

These may, for example, include ingredients that reduce the visibility of pores and/or improve the uniformity of the complexion, such as an extract of Bixa orellana seeds. They may also be anti-aging active ingredients such as an extract of Nephelium lappaceum leaves marketed under the name Nephoria™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions or an extract of Cichorium intybus marketed under the name Lox-Age™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions and/or tensing agents and/or moisturizing active ingredients such as an extract of Nephelium lappaceum bark marketed under the name Nephydrat™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions and/or active agents increasing the barrier effect of the epidermis such as for example a hydrolyzed flaxseed extract marketed under the name OIigolin™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions.

The tensing agents which can be used in the invention can be chosen from synthetic polymers, such as polyurethane latexes or acrylic latexes, polymers of natural origin, in particular polyholosides in the form of starch or in the form of carrageenans, alginates, agars, gellans, cellulose polymers and pectins; plant proteins and protein hydrolysates; mixed silicates; wax microparticles; colloidal particles of inorganic filler chosen for example from silica, silica-alumina composites; as well as their mixtures.

Finally, it may be cosmetic ingredients such as for example antimicrobial agents, anti-radical agents, soothing, calming or relaxing agents, agents acting on microcirculation to improve the radiance of the complexion, in particular of the face, healing agents or slimming agents. Advantageously, the cosmetic and/or dermatological composition of the present invention also contains one or more tensing agents and/or one or more antimicrobial agents and/or one or more anti-radical agents and/or one or more soothing agents and/or one or more agents. slimming agents and/or one or more agents active on the microcirculation.

Among the antimicrobial agents associated with the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana in a preferred mode of the present invention, mention may be made of 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4, 4'-trichlorobanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole , clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, undecylenic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxy benzoic acid, 4-hydroxy benzoic acid, l phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine acid, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, octoxyglycerin, octanoylglycine, caprylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, farnesol, phytosphingosines and their mixtures.

Anti-free radical agents can be vitamin C and its derivatives including ascorbyl glucoside, phenols and polyphenols, in particular tannins, ellagic acid and tannic acid; epigallocatechin and natural extracts containing it, in particular green tea extracts; THE anthocyanins; phenol acids, stilbenes; active scavengers of mono- or polycyclic aromatic compounds, tannins such as ellagic acid and indole derivatives and/or active scavengers of heavy metals such as EDTA, anti-radical active ingredients such as vitamin E and its derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate; bioflavonoids; coenzyme Q.10 or ubiquinone.

As soothing agents included in the composition of the invention, pentacyclic triterpenes, ursolic acid and its salts, oleanolic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, salts of salicylic acid can be used. and in particular zinc salicylate, bisabolol, Allantoin, unsaturated omega 3 oils, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin and beta methasone, anti-inflammatory active ingredients, and in particular those described in the application FR2847267, in particular the root extract of Pueraria lobata marketed under the name Inhipase™ by the applicant, the extracts of Theobroma cacao.

The active ingredients acting on microcirculation, vasoprotectors or vasodilators, can be chosen from flavonoids, ruscogenins, nicotinates and essential oils.

The slimming active ingredients can be chosen in particular from lipoprotein lipase inhibitor agents such as those described in patent US2003086949 (Coletica) and in particular an extract of Peruvian liana (Uncaria tomentosa); draining active ingredients, notably hesperitin laurate (Flavagrum™), or quercitin caprylate (Flavenger™); agents inhibiting the enzyme phosphodiestarase, activating agents of adenylate cyclase, cAMP and/or active ingredients capable of trapping spermine and/or spermidine. We can cite an extract of Coleus Forskohlii root, an extract of Cecropia obtusa, Uva lactuca, caffeine, forskolin, theophylline, theobromine and/or their derivatives, a hydrolyzed kappa carrageenan product called Slimexcess™ marketed by the applicant and/or their mixtures.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “dermatological composition” means a composition aimed at treating and/or preventing skin pathologies linked to the appearance of blackheads such as acne.

Advantageously, the invention also relates to a pharmaceutical composition, in particular dermatological composition intended to treat and/or prevent skin pathologies linked to the appearance of blackheads such as acne.

The invention will be better understood on reading the examples which follow.

Examples referring to the description of the invention are presented below. These examples are given for illustration purposes and in no way limit the scope of the invention. Each of the examples has a general scope. The examples form an integral part of the present invention and any characteristic appearing new compared to any state of the prior art from the description taken as a whole, including the examples, forms an integral part of the invention.

On the other hand, in the examples, all percentages are given by weight unless otherwise indicated, the temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise indicated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure unless otherwise indicated.

EXAMPLES

EXAMPLE IA: PREPARATION OF PYRACANTHA FORTUNEANA EXTRACT (POWDER WITH MALTODEXTRIN) ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION

Dried fruits of Pyracantha fortuneana were extracted in a water/ethanol mixture at 35/65 (w/w), then filtered to obtain a clear liquid which was then loaded onto an ion exchange column. Elution is done with ethanol then the eluate is concentrated in a vacuum evaporator. The liquid extract obtained is mixed with maltodextrin at a ratio of 10% dry extract to 90% maltodextrin (% w/w). Everything is then freeze-dried to obtain a pink to brown powder. The product obtained is characterized by a water content <8.0% (w/w), and a quercetin glycoside content of between 0.5% and 1.5% (w/w%, determined by HPLC).

EXAMPLE IB: PREPARATION OF PYRACANTHA FORTUNEANA EXTRACT (RAW POWDER WITHOUT ADJUVANT) ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION

Dried fruits of Pyracantha fortuneana were extracted in a water/ethanol mixture at 35/65 (w/w), then filtered to obtain a clear liquid which was then loaded onto an ion exchange column. Elution is done with ethanol then the eluate is concentrated in a vacuum evaporator. The liquid obtained is then freeze-dried to obtain a pink to dark brown powder. The product obtained is characterized by a water content <8.0% (w/w), and a quercetin glycoside content of between 5% and 15% (w/w%, determined by HPLC).

EXAMPLE IC: PREPARATION OF PYRACANTHA FORTUNEANA EXTRACT (LIQUID) ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION MIXED WITH A GLYCOL

Dried fruits of Pyracantha fortuneana were extracted in a 35/65 (w/w) water/ethanol mixture, then filtered to obtain a clear liquid which was then loaded onto an ion exchange column. Elution is done with ethanol then the eluate is concentrated in a vacuum evaporator. This extract is then dissolved at 60°C with stirring in an 80/20 (weight/weight) propylene glycol/water mixture to obtain a clear liquid. This liquid is characterized by 5% dry matter (% weight/weight) extracted from the fruits and with a quercetin glycoside content of between 0.25% and 0.75% (w/w%, determined by HPLC).

EXAMPLE 1D: PREPARATION OF THE EXTRACT OF PYRACANTHA FORTUNEANA (LIQUID) ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION MIXTURE WITH GLYCERIN Dried fruits of Pyracantha fortuneana were extracted in a water/ethanol mixture at 35/65 (w/w), then filtered to obtain a clear liquid which is then loaded onto an ion exchange column. Elution is done with ethanol then the eluate is concentrated in a vacuum evaporator. This extract is then dissolved at 80°C with stirring in an 80/20 glycerin/water mixture (w/w) to obtain a liquid. Said liquid is characterized by 5% dry matter (% weight/weight) extracted from the fruits and by a quercetin glycoside content of between 0.25% and 0.75% (weight/weight%, determined by HPLC).

EXAMPLE 2: EXAMPLE OF COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN EXTRACT OF PYRACANTHA FORTUNEANA ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION

We proceed according to methods known to those skilled in the art to mix together the different phases A, B, C indicated in Table 1 below to prepare a composition according to the present invention. The proportions are expressed in % and the names in capital letters correspond to the INCI names of the ingredients.

Table 1: Composition used for the clinical tests of Example 3

[TABLE 1]

EXAMPLE 3: REDUCTION IN THE VISIBILITY OF PORES AND IMPROVEMENT IN THE HOMOGENEITY OF THE COMPLEXION

A clinical study was carried out in a double-blind, half-face manner with the active composition of Example 2) comprising the extract according to Example la) and with the control composition of Example 2) devoid of the extract. according to the invention.

The effectiveness of the compositions comprising or not comprising the Pyracantha fortuneana extract was evaluated by comparing the skin before treatment (JO, initial value) with the skin after treatment with the composition comprising the Pyracantha fortuneana extract (Active composition ) or the composition not including an extract of Pyracantha fortuneana (Control composition). The study was carried out over 56 days, with a checkpoint at D56. The study was carried out on 30 Asian female volunteers, aged 40 to 50 years old. The volunteers applied twice a day (normal conditions of use - once in the morning and once in the evening), each composition respectively on each half of the face.

The effects were evaluated with VISIA-CR, by measuring by image analysis (Image-Pro Plus) the proportion of the area occupied by pores and the number of pores on the cheeks (pore density). A decrease in these values in comparison with the initial value at OJ and/or the control indicates a reduction in the visibility of the pores.

Complexion homogeneity was assessed by VISIA-CR, by measuring the variance of optical density (OD) on the cheeks by image analysis (Image-Pro Plus). The smaller the OD variance, the more uniform and homogeneous the complexion. A reduction in this parameter therefore indicates a more even complexion.

The results are expressed as percentage variations compared to the initial value at OJ.

The statistical analyzes of the variation of the parameters as a function of time, as well as as a function of the compositions tested, were carried out after verification of the normality of distribution using the Shapiro-Wilk test, by a paired Student's t-test. , after validation of normality or by the Wilcoxon test after invalidation of normality.

The significance threshold was set at 5% (p<0.05).

Table 2: % variations in the proportion of pores and number of pores on the cheeks

[TABLE 2]

The results in Table 2 show that the active composition according to Example 2 with the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana obtained according to Example la) applied to the cheeks, reduces the area occupied by the pores:

- significantly (p<0.001) after 56 days of treatment, in comparison with the area occupied by the pores before treatment,

- significantly (p<0.05) after 56 days of treatment, in comparison with the control composition according to example 2) devoid of Pyracantha fortuneana extract. The results in Table 2 show that the active composition according to Example 2 with the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana obtained according to Example la) applied to the cheeks, reduces the number of pores:

- significantly (p<0.001) after 56 days of treatment, in comparison with the number of pores before treatment, - significantly (p<0.001) after 56 days, in comparison with the control composition according to example 2) devoid of Pyracantha fortuneana extract. Table 3: Variations in % of the variance of Optical Density on the cheeks

[TABLE 3]

The results in Table 3 show that the active composition according to Example 2 with the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana obtained according to Example la) applied to the cheeks, reduces the variance of the optical density:

- significantly (p<0.001) after 56 days of treatment, in comparison with the variance of the optical density obtained before treatment, - significantly (p<0.001) after 56 days of treatment, in comparison with the control composition according to example 2) devoid of Pyracantha fortuneana extract. These results indicate that the extract according to the invention improves the homogeneity of the complexion.

Claims

1. Cosmetic use, advantageously topically, of an extract of Pyracantha fortuneana to prevent and/or reduce unsightly and/or unpleasant and/or uncomfortable manifestations of the pores of the skin.

2. Use according to claim 1, to reduce the visibility of pores of the skin and/or prevent the increase in the visibility of pores of the skin and/or maintain and/or improve the homogeneity of skin tone.

3. Use according to one of the preceding claims, to reduce the number of pores and/or the opening diameter and/or the area and/or density of the pores on the surface of the skin and/or prevent dilation skin pores.

4. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is an extract of the aerial parts, preferably a fruit extract.

5. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is obtained by extraction in a protic polar solvent, preferably obtained by extraction in a water/alcohol mixture, still preferentially obtained by extraction in a water/ethanol mixture.

6. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is in the form of an active ingredient in dry form, advantageously in association with maltodextrin.

7. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is in the form of a cosmetic composition comprising said extract at a concentration between lxl0 ^-4 % and 10% (w/w ), preferably between lxl0 ^-3 % and 10% (w/w), advantageously between lxl0 ^-3 % and 3% (w/p), more preferably between 0.01% and 3% (w/w), and again more preferably between 0.01% and 1% (w/w), relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

8. Use according to claim 7, characterized in that the composition further comprises one or more cosmetic active ingredients such as active ingredients for sensitive skin, active ingredients improving the skin barrier, active ingredients improving the comfort of the skin, active ingredients anti-redness, anti-irritation active ingredients, whitening active ingredients, active ingredients improving skin radiance, active ingredients intended for oily skin, active ingredients improving skin exfoliation, moisturizing active ingredients, anti-aging active ingredients , anti-radical active ingredients, and/or thermal waters. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a topical use on specific parts of the body chosen from the legs, feet, armpits, hands, neck, neckline, stomach, arms, thighs, hips, buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, torso, back, face and/or scalp. Cosmetic treatment method for reducing the visibility of pores of the skin and/or preventing the increase in the visibility of pores of the skin and/or for maintaining and/or improving the homogeneity of the complexion, comprising topical administration or oral, preferably the topical application, of an extract of Pyracantha fortuneana or of a cosmetic composition comprising it. Cosmetic care process according to claim 10, in which the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is in the form of a cosmetic composition comprising said extract, at a concentration between lxl0 ^-4 % and 10% (w/w), preferably between lxl0 ^-3 % and 10% (w/w), advantageously between lxl0 ^-3 % and 3% (w/w), more preferably between 0.01% and 3% (p/w), and even more preferably between 0 .01% and 1% (w/w), relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient. Cosmetic care process according to any one of claims 10 or 11, in which the extract of Pyracantha fortuneana is as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9. Cosmetic care process according to one of claims 10 to 12, in which the Pyracantha fortuneana extract or the cosmetic composition comprising it, is used in regular topical application at least once a day, for at least 45 days, preferably for at least 56 days. Extract of Pyracantha fortuneana or a dermatological composition comprising it, for its use topically for the treatment and/or prevention and/or reduction of the occurrence of pathologies linked to the appearance of comedones such as acne. Pyracantha fortuneana extract or dermatological composition comprising it for its use according to claim 14, characterized in that the Pyracantha fortuneana extract is as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9.