FR3103386A1 - New cosmetic use of a glycoprotein extract of Prunus dulcis - Google Patents

Abstract

New cosmetic use of a glycoprotein extract of Prunus dulcis The invention relates to the cosmetic use of a glycoprotein extract of Prunus dulcis to maintain and / or increase the radiance and / or the homogeneity of the complexion of the skin and / or mucous membranes. The extract makes it possible to prevent the appearance and / or reduce the unsightly and / or uncomfortable manifestations of the skin and / or the mucous membranes induced by an imbalance and / or a decrease in the commensal cutaneous and / or mucosal bacterial flora, and / or mucosal. or induced by pollution. Another object relates to a cosmetic care process comprising the topical application of the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis or of a cosmetic composition comprising it. Yet another object relates to a glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis for preventing the onset and / or reducing acne and / or eczema and / or atopic dermatitis.

Description

New cosmetic use of a glycoprotein extract of Prunusdulcis

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a glycoprotein extract of the Prunus dulcis plant to maintain and / or increase the radiance and / or the homogeneity of the complexion of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or radiance of the cutaneous appendages, advantageously of the hair.

Environmental pollution is one of the extrinsic factors, in addition to ultraviolet rays and unfavorable climatic conditions, having a major impact on human skin, its appendages, in particular hair and mucous membranes. This pollution leads to the deposit of fine particles and harmful or even toxic molecules, responsible for a reduction in the radiance and / or the homogeneity of the complexion of the skin, but also the shine and / or radiance of the hair. Pollution thus results, for example, in dull skin and uneven skin tone, dull hair and mucous membranes.

In addition, the above extrinsic factors will potentially disrupt the microbial flora present on the surface of the skin and scalp. The consequences on the skin can manifest themselves in particular by the appearance of redness, blackheads, even excess sebum and induce a greasy or shiny appearance of the skin. The complexion of the skin thus loses its homogeneity.

There is thus a need in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology for alternative natural active ingredients capable of maintaining and/or increasing and/or the radiance and homogeneity of the complexion of the skin and/or mucous membranes but also the radiance of the cutaneous appendages, in particular the hair, in particular when the skin, the mucous membranes and/or the appendages are exposed to pollution and/or when their microbial flora is unbalanced, in particular under the effect of pollution.

The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that a glycoprotein extract of the P. dulcis plant has the property of maintaining and/or increasing the radiance of the cutaneous appendages, advantageously of the hair, and/or the radiance and/or or the homogeneity of the complexion of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

The Applicant has also discovered that a glycoprotein extract of the P. dulcis plant prevents the appearance and/or reduces the unsightly and/or uncomfortable manifestations of the skins and/or cutaneous appendages induced by an imbalance and/or a reduction in cutaneous and/or mucosal and/or pollution-induced commensal bacterial flora, such as redness of the skin and/or mucous membranes, and/or comedones, and/or excess sebum, and/or a shiny appearance skin and/or skin appendages.

Prunus dulcis , better known as sweet almond or P. amygdalus var. dulcis , is a fruit tree in the family Rosaceae of the genus Amygdalus L.

Prunus dulcis contains seeds known for their richness in fatty acids, especially oleic and linoleic acid. They are also high in protein. P. dulcis seed oil has been known since antiquity for its softening, moisturizing and toning properties.

Application GB240578 describes a cosmetic composition comprising sweet almond oil to improve the radiance of the skin. Application FR3012963 also describes a composition comprising sweet almond oil to lighten the complexion.

Application CN103027859 also discloses a cosmetic composition comprising sweet almond oil comprising Ganoderma capense glycopeptides, to improve skin dryness, to lighten the skin and for an anti-wrinkle effect.

Application CN106350320 describes a cosmetic composition for improving radiance and reducing brown spots, comprising sweet almond oil.

In addition, a glycoprotein extract of sweet almond has been described for its properties on lipolysis in application FR2879099.

Finally, a glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis is already marketed under the name Dulcemine™ by the applicant as an active ingredient that moisturizes and repairs the skin and the hair.

However, it has never been disclosed or suggested that a glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis , has properties for improving the shine of the cutaneous appendages, advantageously the hair, nor the shine and / or the homogeneity the complexion of the skin and / or mucous membranes. Nor has it been disclosed or suggested that a glycoprotein extract that P. dulcis has properties for reducing redness of the skin and/or mucous membranes, nor for reducing comedones or the shiny appearance of the skin and / or skin appendages.

The extract according to the invention has the advantage of being a topically acceptable active ingredient which does not irritate the skin or the skin appendages and which has great chemical stability. It does not cause allergies. In addition to its properties on the radiance and/or the homogeneity of the complexion of the skin and the radiance of the hair, this extract has the advantage of regulating the commensal bacterial flora of the skin. It has the additional advantage of combating the harmful effects of pollution.

This extract can be produced on an industrial scale.

A first object of the invention thus relates to the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of a glycoprotein extract of the P. dulcis plant to maintain and / or increase the radiance and / or the homogeneity of the complexion of the skin and / or of the mucous membranes, and/or the luster of the cutaneous appendages, advantageously of the hair.

Another object concerns the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of said extract in a cosmetic composition comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

A third object relates to a cosmetic care process comprising the topical or oral administration of the extract according to the invention or of a cosmetic composition comprising it.

A final object concerns a glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis for its pharmaceutical use, advantageously dermatological, for preventing the appearance and/or reducing acne and/or eczema and/or atopic dermatitis.

detailed description

A first object of the invention therefore relates to the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of a glycoprotein extract of the P. dulcis plant to maintain and / or increase the radiance and / or the homogeneity of the complexion of the skin and / or mucous membranes the shine of the skin appendages, advantageously of the hair.

The term “cosmetic use” means a non-therapeutic use, that is to say a non-pharmaceutical or non-dermatological use, that is to say a use intended for all or part of the skin and/or mucous membrane and/or or healthy skin appendix.

"Healthy skin or mucosa or skin appendix" means skin or mucosa or skin appendix which does not require therapeutic treatment, which does not present any infection, scar, disease, inflammation or skin condition such as as candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, acne or dermatitis, or wound, injury and/or other dermatosis.

“Skin” means any part of the body and/or face, including the scalp.

By “appendages” is meant the nails, the body hair, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, advantageously the hair.

The term “mucosa” is understood to mean the nasal and/or buccal and/or gingival and/or labial and/or vaginal and/or anal mucosa, preferably the labial mucosa.

The extract according to the invention can be administered orally or topically. Preferably, it is applied topically. The extract according to the invention is a topically acceptable extract.

The term “topically acceptable” here means an extract that is non-irritating to the skin or the skin appendages, non-toxic and does not induce an allergic reaction.

The term "topical application" means the direct application of the extract or of a cosmetic composition comprising it to the skin and/or skin appendages, or its vaporization to the surface of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or skin appendages, preferably hair.

In one embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic use of the extract according to the invention comprises its topical application or that of a cosmetic composition comprising it on all or part of the body and/or the face chosen from the legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, stomach, décolleté, neck, arms, torso, back, labial mucosa, face, advantageously the face, and/or skin appendages , advantageously the hair.

Thus, in a first embodiment, the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis according to the invention makes it possible to maintain and/or increase the radiance and/or the homogeneity of the complexion of the skin and/or of the mucous membranes and/or the radiance of the skin appendages, advantageously of the hair.

In an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the extract maintains and/or increases the radiance and/or the uniformity of the complexion of the skin and/or the mucous membranes and/or the radiance of the cutaneous appendages, advantageously of the hair, maintaining and / or increasing the commensal cutaneous and / or mucosal flora.

The term “maintaining and/or increasing the commensal cutaneous and/or mucosal flora” is understood here to mean maintaining and/or increasing the amount of beneficial commensal bacterial strains in the skin and/or mucous membranes.

The term "shine of the cutaneous appendages" means the shine of said appendages. Advantageously, it is the shine of the hair.

By "maintaining and/or improving the radiance of the complexion", we mean preventing the loss of and/or increasing the radiance and/or the radiance of the complexion and/or preventing and/or reducing the dull complexion, in particular due to a balance unbalanced microbial activity, in particular a reduction in the number of beneficial commensal bacterial strains and/or excess sebum and/or due to pollution, in particular due to fine polluting particles and/or UVA rays.

Advantageously, maintaining and/or improving the radiance of the complexion is thus obtained by maintaining and/or increasing the commensal cutaneous and/or mucosal flora, in particular when this commensal cutaneous and/or mucosal flora is reduced.

The measurement of the radiance of the complexion and of the homogeneity of the complexion of the skin can for example be carried out in vivo , in particular by chromametry or by image analysis. This last in vivo measurement method consists of taking high resolution photographs in a crossed polarized configuration of the face of volunteers taken at 45° before and after application of the product tested. Based on these digital photographs, an image analysis makes it possible to extract and quantify specific parameters (for example: L*, a*, b*, C, h°) related to color, brightness, the homogeneity, and the texture of the skin.

The term "maintaining and/or improving the evenness of the complexion" means preventing and/or reducing imperfections and/or irregularities in the color of the complexion such as redness, blackheads and/or visible pores, the shiny appearance of skin and/or skin appendages and/or excess sebum.

“Beneficial commensal bacterial strain” means a bacterial strain that does not induce pathology and/or infection and/or inflammation and/or skin condition such as candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, acne or dermatitis, or wound, injury and/or other dermatosis.

Preferably, the beneficial commensal bacterial strain is chosen from S. hominis , S. warneri , S. capitis , Acinetobacter lwolffii or combinations thereof, advantageously S. epidermidis and/or S. hominis .

“Beneficial commensal bacterial flora” means a population of beneficial commensal bacterial strains.

An increase in the amount of beneficial commensal bacterial strains can help prevent and/or decrease the appearance and/or amount of harmful bacterial strains such as Propionibacterium acnes, and/or pathogens including Staphylococcus aureus . We talk about a balanced microbial balance.

Thus, maintaining and/or increasing the amount of at least one beneficial commensal bacterial strain selected from S. hominis , S. warneri , S. capitis , Acinetobacter lwolffii or combinations thereof, advantageously S. epidermidis and/or S. hominis , allows to prevent the appearance and / or reduce the unsightly and / or uncomfortable manifestations of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or cutaneous appendages induced by this imbalance of the microbial balance, in particular redness of the skin and / or mucous membranes , comedones, shiny appearance of the skin and/or skin appendages and/or excess sebum.

In a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the extract is not used for the treatment of so-called sensitive skin. Here, “sensitive skin” means skin that is in particular dehydrated and/or weakened, without it being considered pathological. Very advantageously, the cosmetic use of the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis is intended for normal skin.

The present invention is particularly suitable for the care and/or cosmetic treatment of normal skin and/or skin exhibiting an imbalance in the microbial balance, in particular a reduction in the number of beneficial commensal bacterial strains.

In an advantageous embodiment, the extract according to the invention is in an effective quantity to maintain and/or increase the quantity of S. epidermidis , when this quantity is increased by at least 2%, advantageously by at least 7% , again advantageously by at least 11% in the presence of the extract according to the invention, in comparison with the quantity measured in the absence of the extract, preferably under the conditions described in Example 2.

In an advantageous embodiment, the measurement of the quantity of S. epidermidis is carried out by measuring the optical density at 600 nm after a period of 24 hours of incubation of said strain in an appropriate culture medium in the presence of extract according to the invention at a concentration by weight of 0.4% relative to the final volume of the culture medium. Advantageously, the extract is the glycoprotein extract of seeds of P. dulcis as prepared according to example 1a). Again advantageously, the strain of S. epidermidis is the strain ATCC12228.

In another advantageous embodiment, the extract according to the invention is in an effective quantity to “prevent the appearance and/or reduce redness of the skin and/or mucous membranes, and/or excess sebum, and/ or a shiny appearance of the skin and/or skin appendages, and/or comedones" when maintaining and/or increasing the amount of S. hominis by at least 4%, advantageously by at least 7%, again advantageously by at least 11%, in comparison with the quantity measured in the absence of the extract, under the conditions described in example 2.

Preferably, the measurement of the quantity of S . hominis is carried out by measuring the optical density at 600 nm after a period of 24 hours of incubation of said strain in an appropriate culture medium in the presence of the extract according to the invention at a concentration by weight of 0.1% relative to the final volume of culture medium. Advantageously, the extract is the glycoprotein extract of seeds of P. dulcis as prepared according to example 1a). Again advantageously, the S. hominis strain is the ATCC27844 strain.

In yet another advantageous embodiment, the extract according to the invention is in an effective amount to “prevent the appearance and/or reduce comedones” when it decreases the amount of Propionibacterium acnes on the surface of the skin, d at least 1.5%, preferably at least 2%, more preferably at least 4% in the presence of the extract according to the invention, in comparison with the quantity of P. acnes measured without said extract.

Preferably according to the invention, the measurement of the quantity of P. acnes is carried out by measuring the optical density at 600 nm after a period of 24 hours of incubation of said strain in an appropriate culture medium in the presence of the extract according to the invention at a final concentration by weight of 0.4% relative to the final volume of the culture medium. Advantageously, the reduction in the quantity of P. acnes is measured at the level of the face. Again advantageously, the extract according to the invention is the glycoprotein extract of seeds of P. dulcis as prepared according to example 1a).

The extract according to the invention is therefore useful for preventing the appearance and/or reducing redness of the skin and/or mucous membranes, and/or excess sebum, and/or a shiny appearance of the skin and/or skin appendages, and/or comedones.

In another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the extract maintains and / or increases the radiance and / or the homogeneity of the complexion of the skin and / or the mucous membranes, and / or the radiance of the cutaneous appendages, advantageously hair, by reducing the percentage of adhesion of fine polluting particles to the surface of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or skin appendages, and/or by increasing the synthesis of ATP measured after exposure to UVA rays and/or or to polluting fine particles, and/or by reducing the cellular cytotoxicity advantageously induced by polluting fine particles and/or UVA rays.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the extract according to the invention reduces the percentage of adhesion of polluting fine particles by at least 11%, measured at the level of the skin after deposition of said fine particles, in the presence of a cream comprising the extract according to the invention, in comparison with the percentage of adhesion of said polluting particles measured without said cream.

Preferably, this measurement of the percentage of adhesion is carried out after deposition of microparticles of iron oxide modeling the fine particles of diameter equal to 2.5 μm, at the level of the antero-internal face of the forearm of a population of 21 women of Caucasian origin aged 19 to 45 years, again advantageously after application of a cream comprising a final concentration by weight of the extract according to the invention of 0.25% relative to the total weight of cream. Preferably, the extract used included in the cream is the glycoprotein extract of seeds of P. dulcis as prepared under the conditions described in example 1a).

Alternatively, the measurement of the percentage of adhesion of iron oxide microparticles is carried out after washing with water at the level of the antero-internal face of the forearm of a population of 21 elderly Caucasian women. from 19 years to 45 years, again advantageously after application of a cream comprising a final concentration by weight of the extract according to the invention of 0.25% relative to the total weight of the cream. Preferably, the extract used included in the cream is the glycoprotein extract of seeds of P. dulcis as prepared under the conditions described in Example 1a).

Even more preferentially, the adhesion and the cleaning of the microparticles are evaluated by acquisition and analysis of images after the deposition of the microparticles and after rinsing with water. The areas studied are visualized using a video microscope equipped with a moving x20 fiber optic lens, coupled to a computer image acquisition system. The surface covered by the fine particles is measured by image analysis, under the conditions described in Example 5 (Table 5).

In another advantageous embodiment, the extract according to the invention decreases cell cytotoxicity, advantageously induced by polluting fine particles and UVA rays by increasing the cell viability measured in human cells by at least 20% compared to the level cell viability measured when said cells are subjected to a combination of UVA and polluting fine particles and without extract.

Preferably, the measurement of cell viability is carried out in human keratinocytes, again advantageously in the presence of the glycoprotein extract of seeds of P. dulcis as prepared according to example 1a), as described under the conditions of example 3.

In yet another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the extract according to the invention increases the synthesis of ATP measured after exposure of the cells under a combination of UVA and fine polluting particles, by at least 8%, even advantageously by at least 20%, very advantageously by at least 30% in comparison with the level of ATP synthesis measured under identical conditions but without extract. Preferably, the synthesis of ATP is measured in human keratinocytes, preferably of the HaCaT line. Advantageously, the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis is the glycoprotein extract of seeds as prepared under the conditions described in example 1a). Even advantageously, the measurement of the synthesis of ATP is carried out by bioluminescence, under the conditions described in Example 4.

Thus, the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis increases ATP synthesis and/or decreases cellular cytotoxicity, in particular that induced by UVA rays and/or polluting fine particles, advantageously induced by the combination of UVA rays and polluting fine particles. .

The glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis according to the invention is an extract of all or part of the P. dulcis plant chosen from the leaves, the stems, the flowers, the fruits, the branches, the roots and/or the seeds. Advantageously, it is a seed extract. The term “seed extract” is understood here to mean an extract of any part of the plant comprising seeds, in particular any part of the fruit comprising them, and advantageously, it is an extract containing only seeds.

P. dulcis extract is a glycoprotein extract. By “glycoprotein extract” is meant a protein extract of the P. dulcis plant obtained from the dried flour of the seeds of P. dulcis and comprising glycosylated proteins. This flour has been defatted. Advantageously, it contains less than 10% by weight of lipid relative to the total weight of the dry matter, very advantageously, it does not contain any lipid. Thus, the glycoprotein extract according to the invention is not an oil extract of P. dulcis , particularly not an oil extract from the seeds. Advantageously, the glycoprotein extract comprises at least:
- glycosylated proteins of molecular weight between 250kDa and 330kDa, advantageously between 260kDa and 320kDa, more advantageously between 270kDa and 310kDa, again advantageously between 280kDa and 300kDa, very advantageously 290kDa. Preferably, these glycosylated proteins are qualified as amandoglobulins. Advantageously, these proteins are linked by covalent bond to oligosaccharides, advantageously again sucrose.
- glycosylated proteins of molecular weight between 130kDa and 170kDa, advantageously between 140kDa and 160kDa, still advantageously 150kDa. Preferably, these glycosylated proteins are qualified as amandoalbumins. Advantageously, these proteins are linked by covalent bond to oligosaccharides, advantageously again sucrose.
- And an emulsin-type enzymatic complex with phosphatase and beta-glucosidase activity.

In the context of the invention, the molecular weight of the proteins is determined by high performance liquid chromatography.

Preferably, the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis according to the invention essentially contains only glycosylated proteins of molecular weight between 280kDa and 300kDa, advantageously 290kDa, and glycosylated proteins of molecular weight between 140kDa and 160kDa, advantageously 150kDa , and the emulsin-like enzyme complex possessing phosphatase and β-glucosidase activities.

Very preferably, the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis according to the invention consists only of glycosylated proteins of molecular weight between 280kDa and 300kDa, advantageously 290kDa, and glycosylated proteins of molecular weight between 140kDa and 160kDa, advantageously 150kDa , and the emulsin-like enzyme complex possessing phosphatase and β-glucosidase activities.

The extract according to the invention can be obtained by various extraction methods known to those skilled in the art, chosen from maceration, hot decoction, by grinding, including ultrasonic grinding, using a blender , or the extract can be obtained by extraction in water under subcritical or supercritical conditions (carbon dioxide). Preferably, the extraction is carried out by maceration.

The protein extraction is carried out from delipidated flour, therefore dry matter, in an amount of 1% to 30% by weight, advantageously from 5% to 20%, very advantageously from 5% to 15%, still advantageously from 10% , by weight relative to the total weight of the defatted flour and the extraction solvent.

The protein extraction is carried out over a period of 30 minutes to 24 hours, preferably from 30 minutes to 12 hours, more preferably over a period of 1 hour to 5 hours, and even more advantageously over a period of 1 hour to 2 hours. Very advantageously, the protein extraction is carried out over a period of 1 hour.

The glycoprotein extract according to the invention is obtained by extraction of the proteins in a solvent or mixture of solvents, preferably a protic polar solvent, and advantageously in water, an alcohol, a glycol, a polyol, a water/alcohol mixture, water/glycol or water/polyol (such as water mixed with ethanol, glycerol and/or butylene glycol and/or other glycols such as xylitol and/or propanediol, etc.) from 99/1 to 1/99 (weight / weight), advantageously in water as sole solvent.

In particular, the extract is obtained by aqueous extraction. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "extract obtained by aqueous extraction" means any extract obtained by extraction with an aqueous solution containing more than 60% by weight, advantageously at least 70% by weight, in particular at least 80% by weight , more particularly at least 90% by weight, in particular at least 95% by weight, of water relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, even more advantageously not containing any glycol and in particular not containing any alcohol, more particularly containing only water.

Advantageously, the solvent may comprise sodium chloride, preferably at a final concentration by weight of between 0.5% and 1.5%, more preferably at a concentration by weight of 0.9% relative to the total weight of the solvent comprising sodium chloride.

The extraction is carried out at a temperature between 4°C and 90°C, advantageously between 50°C and 80°C, again advantageously between 65°C and 75°C, very advantageously at 72°C.

The protein extraction is carried out at a pH comprised between 5.0 and 7.0, advantageously between 5.5 and 6.5, more advantageously it is carried out at a pH of 6.1.

In a first advantageous embodiment of the invention, the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis is prepared from 10% by weight of dried seed flour. The glycoprotein extract is then obtained by aqueous extraction of the proteins at pH 6.1, at a temperature of 72° C., for a period of 1 hour, in water as the sole solvent comprising sodium chloride at a final concentration by weight of 0.9% relative to the total weight of the solvent comprising the sodium chloride. The liquid extract obtained is then separated by centrifugation, filtered and then a clarification step is implemented. The extract thus clarified is then concentrated, filtered and then atomized under the conditions as described in Example 1a).

In a second embodiment of the invention, the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis is prepared from 10% by weight of dried seed flour. The glycoprotein extract is then obtained by aqueous extraction of the proteins at pH 6.5, at a temperature of 65° C., for a period of 2 hours, in water as the sole solvent comprising sodium chloride at a final concentration by weight of 1.2% relative to the total weight of the solvent comprising the sodium chloride. The liquid extract obtained is then separated by centrifugation, filtered and then a clarification step is implemented. The extract thus clarified is then concentrated, filtered and then atomized in the presence of maltodextrins at a concentration by weight of 80% relative to the total weight of the atomized extract, under the conditions described in Example 1b).

In a 3rd embodiment, the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis is prepared from 15% by weight of dried seed flour. The glycoprotein extract is then obtained by aqueous extraction of the proteins at pH 6.5, at a temperature of 65° C., for a period of 2 hours, in water as the sole solvent comprising sodium chloride at a final concentration by weight of 1.2% relative to the total weight of the solvent comprising the sodium chloride. The liquid extract obtained is then separated by centrifugation, filtered and then a clarification step is implemented. The extract thus clarified is then concentrated and then filtered under the conditions described in example 1c).

The extract according to the invention is used alone or in a cosmetic or dermatological composition.

When it is used alone in the form of a cosmetic ingredient, it is preferentially dissolved in an aqueous solution containing glycerin, advantageously present at a concentration of 60% to 90%, again advantageously of 70% to 85%, very advantageously at a concentration of 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution comprising the extract.

In an alternative embodiment of the invention, the extract is dissolved and/or diluted in a particularly polar solvent, such as water, an alcohol, a polyol, a glycol, such as pentylene glycol and/ or butylene glycol and/or hexylene glycol and/or caprylyl glycol, or one of their mixtures, preferably a hydroglycolic mixture, more preferably containing a glycol chosen from hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the extract obtained is diluted and/or soluble in an aqueous solution containing hexylene glycol, in particular containing between 0.1 and 10% by weight of hexylene glycol, preferably between 0.5 and 5% by weight of hexylene glycol, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic ingredient. Advantageously, the extract obtained is diluted and/or soluble in an aqueous solution containing caprylyl glycol, in particular containing between 0.01 and 5% by weight of caprylyl glycol, preferentially between 0.1 and 1% by weight of caprylyl glycol , relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution comprising the extract.

In particular, the aqueous solution in which the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis according to the invention is dissolved comprises xanthan gum, in particular between 0.01 and 5% by weight of xanthan gum relative to the total weight of the solution. aqueous, more particularly between 0.1 and 1% by weight of xanthan gum relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution comprising the extract.

Advantageously, the solution in which the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis according to the invention is dissolved comprises hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and xanthan gum.

In another alternative embodiment, the liquid extract obtained according to the invention is atomized in the presence of maltodextrin, in a concentration of 70% by weight to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the maltodextrin and the extract, advantageously from 75% to 85%, and even more advantageously at a concentration of 80% by weight of maltodextrin relative to the total weight of the maltodextrin and of the extract. The extract comes in powder form.

Another object concerns the use of a glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis in a cosmetic composition comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient for maintaining and/or increasing the radiance and/or the homogeneity of the complexion of the skin and/or of the mucous membranes, and/or the shine of the cutaneous appendages, advantageously of the hair.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention is useful for preventing the appearance and/or reducing the unsightly and/or uncomfortable manifestations of the skin and/or the mucous membranes and/or the cutaneous appendages induced by an imbalance and/or a reduction in the cutaneous and/or mucosal commensal bacterial flora, advantageously redness of the skin and/or mucous membranes, and/or excess sebum, and/or comedones, and/or a shiny appearance of the skin. The cosmetic composition comprising the extract according to the invention is also useful for combating the harmful effects of pollution.

Thus, the cosmetic composition makes it possible to maintain and/or increase the radiance and/or the uniformity of the complexion of the skin and/or of the mucous membranes and/or the radiance of the skin appendages, advantageously of the hair.

In one embodiment of the invention, the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis is used in the composition in the form of an aqueous or oily solution, which may or may not be rinsed off, a cream or an aqueous gel or an oily gel, in particular a shower gel, a milk, an emulsion, a microemulsion or a nanoemulsion, in particular oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple or silicone, a mask, a serum, a lotion, a liquid soap, a dermatological bar , an ointment, a mousse, a patch, an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, pasty or solid, a hair care lotion, a shampoo, a conditioner.

Said composition can be applied topically or administered orally. Advantageously, it will be applied topically. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

Thus advantageously, the extract according to the invention is present in the composition, advantageously cosmetic, at a concentration of 1x10 ^-4 % to 10%, preferentially from 1x10 ^-3 % to 5%, and even preferentially from 1x10 ^-2 % to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The excipient(s) used in the cosmetic composition are chosen from surfactants and/or emulsifiers, preservatives, buffering agents, chelating agents, denaturants, opacifying agents, pH adjusters, reducing agents, stabilizing agents , thickeners, gelling agents, film-forming polymers, fillers, matting agents, shine agents, pigments, dyes, perfumes, and mixtures thereof. The CTFA (Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992)) describes various cosmetic excipients suitable for use in the present invention.

Advantageously, the excipient(s) are chosen from the group comprising polyglycerols, esters, polymers and cellulose derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrins, lactoperoxidases, sucrose-based stabilizers, vitamin E and its derivatives, xanthan gums, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiables, phytosterols, silicones, protein hydrolysates, betaines, aminoxides, plant extracts, sucrose esters , titanium dioxides, glycines, and parabens, and more preferably from the group consisting of steareth-2, steareth-21, glycol-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, natural tocopherols, glycerin, dihydroxycetyl sodium phosphate, isopropyl hydroxycetyl ether, glycol stearate, triisononanoine, octyl cocoate, polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, laureth-7, a carbomer, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, bisabolol, a dimethicone, sodium hydroxide, PEG 30-dipolyhydroxysterate, capric/caprylic triglycerides, cetearyl octanoate, dibutyl adipate, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, magnesium sulfate, EDTA, cyclomethicone, xanthan gum , citric acid, sodium lauryl sulphate, waxes and mineral oils, isostearyl isostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propylene glycol isostearate, PEG 8, beeswax, glycerides of hydrogenated palm heart oil, lanolin oil, sesame oil, cetyl lactate, lanolin alcohol, castor oil, titanium dioxide, lactose, sucrose, low density polyethylene, an isotonic saline solution, and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic composition may also comprise other ingredients having the same properties and inducing a synergistic effect or not with the extract according to the invention, or ingredient agents with complementary effects. The extract can be combined with any plant extract possessing similar properties of preventing the appearance and/or reducing skin tone imperfections and/or increasing the radiance of the complexion, in particular an extract of the Inonotus obliquus mushroom marketed by the applicant, an oil extract of Argania spinosa marketed under the name Arganyl™, an extract of Moringa oleifera seeds marketed under the name Purisoft™ by the applicant, a combination of an extract of Salvia miltiorrhiza and niacinamide marketed under the name CollRepair™ by the applicant, an extract of Achillea millefolium marketed under the name Neurobiox™ by the applicant, an extract of Cassia alata leaves marketed under the name DN-Age™ and/or a lychee extract marketed under the name Litchiderm™ as antioxidant active ingredients, a chicory extract marketed under the name Lox-Age™, an extract of Polygonum bistorta comm marketed under the name Perlaura™, an extract of galangal marketed under the name Hyalufix™, an extract of corn marketed under the name Deliner™ or an extract of Voandzeia subterranea marketed under the name Epigenist™ by the applicant or active ingredients promoting skin firmness such as a synthetic tetrapeptide marketed under the name Dermican™, an extract of Hibiscus abelmoschus marketed under the name Linefactor™, a purified pea extract marketed under the name Proteasyl™ , an extract of Manilkara multinervis marketed under the name of Elestan™ by the applicant. An extract of the plant Origanum majorana marketed under the name Dermagenist™ and/or an extract of Khaya senegalensis marketed under the name Collalift®18 and/or an extract of Eperua falcata marketed under the name Eperuline™ or even an extract comprising phytosterols, in particular β-sitosterol and/or campesterol and/or brassicasterol originating from rapeseed oil and marketed by the applicant under the name Phytosoothe™, may also be added to the cosmetic composition.

Other active ingredients in particular on the hydration of the skin and/or the mucous membranes could be combined with the glycoprotein extract according to the invention. Thus, among the moisturizing active ingredients and / or active on the barrier function and / or which increase the water content of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or stimulate the synthesis of aquaporin to improve the circulation of water in cells, mention will be made of serine, urea and its derivatives, products such as microspheres of marine collagen and chondroitin sulphate as glycosaminoglycan, a formulation comprising a salt of hyaluronic acid, urea, trehalose, glycerol triacetate and polyquaternium marketed under the names Marine Filling spheres™ and Advanced moisturizing complex™ respectively, hyaluronic acid microspheres marketed under the name Hyaluronic Filling Spheres™, a red seaweed extract or a mixture of acacia polysaccharide, alginate and serine respectively marketed under the names of Osmogelline™ and Micropatch™ Serine, or even a combination of pullulan, hyaluronic acid or one of salts or one of its derivatives and alginic acid, one of the salts or one of its derivatives, sold under the name PatcH ₂ 0™.

Another object of the invention also relates to a cosmetic care process comprising the topical or oral administration, advantageously the topical application, of a glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis or of a cosmetic composition comprising it, to maintain and/or increase the radiance and/or the uniformity of the complexion of the skin and/or the mucous membranes, and/or the radiance of the cutaneous appendages, advantageously of the hair, advantageously by preventing the appearance and/or decreasing the unsightly and/or uncomfortable manifestations of the skin and/or the mucous membranes and/or the cutaneous appendages induced by an imbalance and/or a reduction in at least one beneficial commensal cutaneous and/or mucosal bacterial strain, advantageously chosen from S hominis , S. warneri, S. capitis, Acinetobacter lwolffii or combinations thereof , advantageously S. epidermidis and/or S. hominis . Advantageously, these manifestations are redness of the skin and/or of the mucous membranes, and/or an excess of sebum, and/or comedones, and/or a shiny appearance of the skin.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic care process comprises the application of the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis or of a cosmetic composition comprising it, topically, on all or part of the body and/or of the face chosen from the legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, stomach, décolleté, neck, arms, torso, back, face, advantageously the face, and/or mucous membranes, advantageously the labial mucosa , and/or the skin appendages, advantageously the hair.

A final object concerns a glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis for its pharmaceutical use, advantageously dermatological, for preventing the appearance and/or reducing acne and/or eczema and/or atopic dermatitis.

In one embodiment of the invention, the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis is included in a pharmaceutical composition, advantageously dermatological, which comprises at least one dermatologically acceptable excipient.

Advantageously, the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis is included in the pharmaceutical composition, advantageously dermatological, at a concentration by weight of 1x10 ^-4 % to 10%, preferentially from 1x10 ^-3 % to 5%, and even preferentially from 1x10 ^{- 2} % to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the pharmaceutical composition, advantageously dermatological.

Examples refer to the description of the invention and are presented below. These examples are given by way of illustration and do not limit the scope of the invention. The examples form an integral part of the present invention and any feature appearing new with respect to any state of the prior art from the description taken as a whole, including the examples, forms an integral part of the invention.
In the examples and unless otherwise indicated, the temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius.

Examples

Example 1: Modes of preparation of the extract of p. sweet according to the invention

Example 1a) : the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis seeds is prepared from 10% by weight of dried seed flour. The glycoprotein extract is then obtained by aqueous extraction of the proteins at pH 6.1, at a temperature of 72° C., for a period of 1 hour, in water as the sole solvent comprising sodium chloride at a concentration final by weight of 0.9% relative to the total weight of the solvent comprising the sodium chloride. The liquid extract obtained is then separated by centrifugation, filtered and then a clarification step is implemented. The extract thus clarified is then concentrated, filtered and then atomized.

Example 1b) : the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis seeds is prepared from 10% by weight of dried seed flour. The glycoprotein extract is then obtained by aqueous extraction of the proteins at pH 6.5, at a temperature of 65° C., for a period of 2 hours, in water as the sole solvent comprising sodium chloride at a concentration final by weight of 1.2% relative to the total weight of the solvent comprising the sodium chloride. The liquid extract obtained is then separated by centrifugation, filtered and then a clarification step is implemented. The extract thus clarified is then concentrated, filtered and then atomized in the presence of maltodextrins (80% w/w).

Example 1c) : the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis seeds is prepared from 15% by weight of dried seed flour. The glycoprotein extract is then obtained by aqueous extraction of the proteins at pH 6.1, at a temperature of 72° C., for a period of 1 hour, in water as the sole solvent comprising sodium chloride at a concentration final by weight of 0.9% relative to the total weight of the solvent comprising the sodium chloride. The liquid extract obtained is then separated by centrifugation, filtered and then a clarification step is implemented. The extract thus clarified is then concentrated and then filtered. It comes in liquid form.
Example 2: Increase in commensal bacterial flora

Protocol : The glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis as described in Example 1a), was diluted in a bacterial culture medium (Trypto Casein Soja, TSA) to a final concentration by weight of 0.1% and 0. 4% (for S. hominis and S. epidermidis respectively) relative to the final volume of the culture medium. The media comprising the ingredients were then incubated for a period of 24 hours at a temperature of 35° C. under aerobic conditions in the presence of a calibrated inoculum of 5.4×10 ⁵ of S. epidermidis (ATCC 12228) and 1.75×10 ⁵ for S. hominis (ATCC 27844).

The quantity of bacteria was calculated by measuring the optical density at 600 nm after a period of 24 hours of incubation (n=3). The results are expressed by the mean (MOY) of the 3 trials in each test (SD: standard deviation).

Results :

S. hominis AVERAGE AND Control (no treatment) 0.434 0.020 Glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis Example 1a) 0.1% (w/v) 0.510 0.014

S. epidermidis AVERAGE AND Control (no treatment) 0.576 0.01 Glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis Example 1a) 0.4% (w/v) 0.713 0.012

Conclusion : the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis seeds has shown its capacity to increase the quantity of S. epidermidis and S. hominis , making it possible to reinforce the commensal cutaneous bacterial flora. The extract helps prevent the appearance and / or reduce redness and / or comedones and / or excess sebum and / or the shiny appearance of the skin and maintain and / or increase the radiance of the appendages cutaneous, advantageously of the hair, as well as the radiance and/or the homogeneity of the complexion of the skin and/or of the mucous membranes.
Example 3: Inhibition of pollution-induced cytotoxicity on keratinocytes

Protocol : Human keratinocytes were seeded in a culture medium containing fetal calf serum, and incubated at 37°C (5% CO2 and 95% relative humidity) for a period of 3 days in order to obtain a saturated cell layer. The culture medium was then replaced with Hanks' balanced salt solution comprising pollution particles (2.5 μm) and the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis prepared under the conditions described in Example 1a) at a final concentration of weight of 0.2% relative to the total volume of the medium then incubated at 37° C. for a period of 1 day. The cultures were irradiated with UVA (20J/cm2). After irradiation, the cell culture medium was renewed and the cells were incubated for a period of 2 days at 37°C. Cell viability was measured (3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyl tetrazolium bromide or MTT test). After incubation of the keratinocytes with MTT for a period of 3 hours, the cell layer was dissolved in DMSO. The optical density was measured at 550 nm by spectroscopy, to measure the quantity of living cells (Cell Viability). The results are expressed as an average percentage relative to the control of cells irradiated under UVA in the absence of fine particles.

The statistical test was carried out using the ANOVA method.

Results :

AVERAGE Control (UVA) 144* Pollution (UVA + fine particles 25µg/mL) 100 Pollution (UVA + fine particles 25µg/mL) and glycoprotein extract P. dulcis Example 1a) 0.2% (w/v) 128*

*P<0.001

Conclusion : the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis made it possible to reduce the cytotoxicity induced by the combination of UVA and fine particles and makes it possible to maintain and / or increase the radiance of the cutaneous appendages, advantageously of the hair, as well as the radiance and/or the homogeneity of the complexion of the skin and/or mucous membranes.
Example 4: Inhibition of the degradation of ATP in the presence of the extract according to the invention

Protocol : Human keratinocytes were seeded in a culture medium containing fetal calf serum, and incubated at 37° C. (5% CO2 and 95% relative humidity) for a period of 3 days. The culture medium was replaced with Hanks' balanced salt solution comprising pollution particles, the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis at a final concentration by weight of 0.2% relative to the total volume of the medium and as prepared in example 1a), then the medium was incubated for a period of 1 day at 37°C. The cultures were then irradiated under UVA (20J/cm2). After irradiation, the cell culture medium was renewed and the cells incubated for a period of 2 days at 37°C. The cellular energy was measured by enzymatic measurement of the ATP produced by the cells (ATP Bioluminescence kit CLSn11699695001/Roche diagnostic France).

The results are expressed as a mean percentage +/- standard deviation relative to the control (cells irradiated under UVA in the absence of fine particles). The statistical test was carried out using the ANOVA method.

Results :

AVERAGE AND Control (UVA) 119* 2 Pollution (UVA + fine particles 25µg/mL) 100 2 Pollution (UVA + fine particles 25µg/mL) and glycoprotein extract P. dulcis Example 1a) 0.2% (w/v) 120* 10

*P<0.01

Conclusion : the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis reduced the decrease in ATP synthesis induced by the combination of UVA and fine particles by at least 8%, showing its ability to maintain and / or increase the luster of the cutaneous appendages, advantageously of the hair, as well as the luster and/or the uniformity of the complexion of the skin and/or of the mucous membranes.
Example 5: In vivo measurement of the reduction in the adhesion of fine particles to the skin in the presence of the extract according to the invention.

Protocol : A cream comprising a final concentration by weight of the extract according to the invention of 0.25% relative to the total weight of the cream (Formulation example 6), or without said extract replaced by water, was applied to the antero-internal face of the forearm of a population of 21 women of Caucasian origin aged 19 to 45 years after deposition of iron oxide microparticles modeling fine particles of 2.5 µm of diameter.

The extract tested included in the cream was the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis seeds as prepared under the conditions described in Example 1a). The adhesion and the cleaning of the microparticles were evaluated by acquisition and analysis of images after the deposition of the microparticles and after rinsing with water 24 hours after application of the cream. The areas studied were visualized using a video microscope equipped with a moving x20 fiber optic lens, coupled to a computer image acquisition system. The surface covered by the fine particles was measured by image analysis. Table 5 shows the average percentage of adhesion of the microparticles to the skin of the population tested.

Results :

Percentage of adhesion of fine particles after deposition AVERAGE Untreated area 100 Cream including water, without extract (Negative control) 99 Cream comprising the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis seeds 0.25% (w/w) (Ex. 1a) 88* Percentage of adhesion of fine particles after washing with water AVERAGE Untreated area 100 Cream including water, without extract (Control) 92 Cream comprising the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis seeds 0.25% (w/w) (Ex. 1a) 75**

*p= 0.006; **p<0.001 (Student test)

Conclusion : the application of the cream comprising the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis seeds made it possible to reduce the adhesion of fine polluting particles before and after washing by 11% and 17% respectively compared to the control cream.

These results show the beneficial effect of the extract on maintaining and / or increasing the radiance of the skin appendages, advantageously the hair, as well as the radiance and / or the homogeneity of the complexion of the skin and / or mucous membranes.
Example 6: Examples of cosmetic formulations comprising the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis

Example 6a) Body and/or face formulation

A cosmetic product in the form of a face cream may have a composition by weight, consisting of the following aqueous and fatty phases. The percentages are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fat phase Isostearyl and Diglyceryl Succinate 3.00 Paraffin oil 15.00 Quaternium-18 Hectorite 0.50 Poly(PEG-22/Dodecyl Glycol) 1.00 Aqueous phase Magnesium sulfate 0.80 Butylene glycol 4.00 Glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis (according to ex. 1a) 1.00 Distilled water 9.00 Methylparaben, hexamidine diisethionate, 2-Bromo-2 nitropropane-1,3-diol and propylparaben (Elestab 4112) 0.35 Scent 0.30 Distilled water Qsp 100.00

Example 6b) Facial Formulation (Cream)

A cosmetic product in the form of a body and/or face cream may, for example, have a composition by weight, made up of the following aqueous and fatty phases, as indicated below.

Fat phase Ceteareth 25 2.00 Ceteareth 6 (et) Stearyl Stearyl Alcohol 1.00 Cetyl alcohol 4.00 Glycerol Stearate 4.00 Petrolatum 5.00 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides 5.00 Aqueous phase Glycerin 10.00 Glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis (prepared according to ex. 1a) 1.50 Distilled water 8.50 Methylparaben, hexamidine diisethionate, 2-Bromo-2 nitropropane-1,3-diol and propylparaben (Elestab 4112) 0.40 Scent 0.30 Distilled water Qsp 100.00

The process for preparing the face cream essentially consists of bringing the fatty phase to 80°C, bringing the aqueous phase also to 80°C and dissolving Elestab 4112 (Methylparaben, hexamidine diisethionate, 2-Bromo- 2 nitropropane-1,3-diol and propylparaben), separately preparing the stock solution of glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis , pouring the fatty phase into the aqueous phase with turbine stirring, then, at around 50° C., introduce the stock solution of P. dulcis extract and continue stirring until cooling.

Claims (15)

Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a glycoprotein extract of Prunus dulcis for maintaining and/or increasing the radiance and/or the evenness of the complexion of healthy skin and/or healthy mucous membranes. Use according to claim 1 such that the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis prevents the appearance and / or reduces redness of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes, and / or comedones, and / or a shiny appearance of the healthy skin. Use according to any one of claims 1 or 2 such that the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis is a seed extract. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3 that the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis comprises glycoproteins of molecular weight between 260kDa and 320kDa, advantageously between 280kDa and 300kDa, still advantageously 290kDa. Use according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, such that the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis comprises glycoproteins with a molecular weight of between 130kDa and 170kDa, advantageously between 140kDa and 160kDa, further advantageously 150kDa. Use according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, such that the glycoprotein extract is obtained from delipidated flour from the seeds of P. dulcis . Use according to any one of claims 1 to 6 such that the extract maintains and/or increases the quantity of at least one beneficial commensal bacterial strain, advantageously Staphylococcus epidermidis and/or Staphylococcus hominis . Use according to any one of claims 1 to 7 such that the extract increases ATP synthesis and/or decreases cellular cytotoxicity. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 8 such that the extract is included in a cosmetic composition comprising at least one acceptable cosmetic excipient, at a concentration by weight of 1x10 ^-4 % to 10%, preferably 1x10 ^-3 % at 5%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Use according to Claim 9, such that the cosmetic composition is in the form of an aqueous or oily solution, which may or may not be rinsed off, a cream or an aqueous gel or an oily gel, in particular a shower gel, a milk, an emulsion, a microemulsion or a nanoemulsion, in particular oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple or silicone, a mask, a serum, a lotion, a liquid soap, a dermatological bar, an ointment, a foam, a patch, a anhydrous product, preferably liquid, pasty or solid, hair care lotion, shampoo, conditioner. Cosmetic care process comprising the topical or oral administration, advantageously the topical application, of a glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis seeds or of a composition comprising it to maintain and/or increase the radiance and / or the homogeneity of the complexion of healthy skin and / or healthy mucous membranes. Cosmetic care process according to Claim 11, in which the extract prevents the appearance and/or reduces the unsightly and/or uncomfortable manifestations of healthy skin and/or healthy mucous membranes induced by an imbalance and/or a reduction in least one beneficial commensal cutaneous and/or mucosal bacterial strain, advantageously redness of healthy skin and/or healthy mucous membranes, and/or comedones, and/or a shiny appearance of healthy skin. Cosmetic care process according to Claim 11, such that the glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis seeds or the cosmetic composition comprising it is applied to all or part of the body and/or the face chosen from the legs, the feet, the armpits, the hands, the thighs, the stomach, the décolleté, the neck, the arms, the torso, the back, the face, advantageously the face, and/or the mucous membranes, advantageously the labial mucosa. Glycoprotein extract of P. dulcis for its pharmaceutical use, advantageously dermatological, for preventing the appearance and/or reducing acne and/or eczema and/or atopic dermatitis. Extract according to claim 14 as defined in any one of claims 3 to 6.