CN115737478B - Application of desert algae skin care raw material in preparation of skin soothing agent - Google Patents

Application of desert algae skin care raw material in preparation of skin soothing agent Download PDF

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CN115737478B
CN115737478B CN202310029859.4A CN202310029859A CN115737478B CN 115737478 B CN115737478 B CN 115737478B CN 202310029859 A CN202310029859 A CN 202310029859A CN 115737478 B CN115737478 B CN 115737478B
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algae
skin care
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CN115737478A (en
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杨登亮
张伟杰
曾伟丹
张楚标
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Guangdong Danz Group Co Ltd
Guangzhou Keneng Cosmetic Research Co Ltd
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Guangdong Danz Group Co Ltd
Guangzhou Keneng Cosmetic Research Co Ltd
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Abstract

The invention discloses application of a skin care raw material of desert algae in preparing a skin soothing agent, and relates to the technical field of application of micro-sheath algae with sheath. The skin care raw material of the desert algae selected by the invention is separated from arid areas of the desert, has strong skin soothing capability, has development value as a skin soothing agent for production and application, can obviously inhibit macrophage inflammatory factor release, and obviously reduces skin heme, and can be widely applied to skin care products or cosmetics as a soothing agent. The skin care product takes the desert algae skin care raw material as a skin soothing agent, reduces the release of inflammatory factors, inhibits the increase of skin heme caused by external stimulus, and improves the symptoms of skin, especially dry skin.

Description

Application of desert algae skin care raw material in preparation of skin soothing agent
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of application of sheath microalgae, in particular to application of a desert algae skin care raw material in preparation of a skin soothing agent.
Background
Microalgae are rich in various energy and nutrient substances such as carbohydrates, proteins, vitamins, minerals and the like, and the protein content in spirulina and chlorella can reach 50-70% of the dry weight of cells in general. A plurality of microalgae are listed in new resource foods and common food lines in China, and microalgae biotechnology mainly comprising microalgae culture and product development and utilization is one of effective ways for solving the problems of grains, energy sources, environmental protection, medicines and the like.
Bioactive substances in microalgae such as astaxanthin, beta-carotene, DHA, EPA, etc. are often extracted, refined and encapsulated. Wherein, astaxanthin is praised as an antioxidant king, has the effect of removing oxygen free radicals in human body, and has the functions of resisting wrinkles and skin aging, sun-proof, ultraviolet-proof and the like because of strong oxidation resistance. Meanwhile, the microalgae extract mixture mainly contains proteins, fatty acids, polysaccharides and the like, is also often used as an additive for skin care and cosmeceuticals, and has the functions of removing aged skin cells and keeping skin healthy. In recent years, research and application of microalgae in desert areas have attracted extensive attention and importance. The growth environment (extremely drought, huge temperature difference, strong sunlight and soil impoverishment) of the desert algae determines the special nutritional value of the cells, improves the activity of the stress-resistant components of the cells, and evolves the viability and self-protection form of the cells. Among microalgae resources, desert algae is considered as a very promising biological resource, and development and application research of the desert algae are urgently needed to be enhanced.
The sheath microalgae are one of the most widely distributed species of desert algae in the desert soil, and the biomass of the sheath microalgae is sometimes more than 95% of the total amount of soil microorganisms. In recent years, the sheath micro-algae has good application potential in desertification control, has excellent ecological functions of water and soil conservation, soil improvement, wind prevention, sand fixation and the like, and is one of important algae species for fixing quicksand and an important method for biologically fixing sand. A method for separating and purifying the sphingoid microalgae from the crust of desert organisms is described in published Chinese patent 102199542A. Besides the excellent sand-fixing and skinning functions, the algae cells of the sheath microalgae also contain rich polysaccharide components, so that the sheath microalgae is an excellent microalgae resource for high-yield algal polysaccharide.
The growth environment (extremely drought, huge temperature difference, strong sunlight and soil impoverishment) of the desert algae determines the special nutritional value of the sheath microalgae, improves the activity of cell stress resistance components, and evolves the viability and self-protection form of cells. The extract of the Sphingomonas vaginalis has various pharmacological effects such as immunoregulation, anti-tumor, antivirus, anti-radiation and the like, and almost has no toxic or side effect. In addition, the effects of the glycosphingosine on dietary nutrition, health care conditioning, aging prevention and the like are also gradually recognized by people, and the development and the utilization of the glycosphingosine show attractive prospects.
However, there are few effects reported for the application of the sphingoid to the skin, resulting in limited application of the sphingoid to cosmetics.
In view of this, the present invention has been made.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide an application of a desert algae skin care raw material in preparing a skin soothing agent.
The invention is realized in the following way:
in a first aspect, the invention provides an application of a desert algae skin care raw material in preparing a skin soothing agent, wherein the desert algae skin care raw material is glycosphingosine, and the skin soothing agent is an agent for inhibiting macrophage inflammatory factor release and reducing skin heme content.
In an alternative embodiment, the concentration of the desert algae skin care raw material in the skin soothing agent is 0.25 mg/mL to 5mg/mL, and the inhibition rate of the desert algae skin care raw material to macrophage inflammatory factor is 6.1% -74.6%.
In an alternative embodiment, the concentration of the desert algae skin care raw material in the skin soothing agent is 2.5 mg/mL to 5mg/mL, and the inhibition rate of the desert algae skin care raw material to macrophage inflammatory factor is 46.4% -74.6%.
In an alternative embodiment, the skin care raw material for desert algae reduces the reduction rate of skin heme content of the soothing stimulus model by 54.35% -85.19% when the concentration of the skin care raw material for desert algae in the skin soothing agent is 0.5% -20%.
In an alternative embodiment, the method for preparing the desert algae skin care raw material comprises the following steps:
culturing and harvesting the micro-sheath algae, and drying and pulverizing to obtain micro-sheath algae powder;
adding first absolute ethyl alcohol into the sheath micro-sheath algae powder, shaking by a shaking table, and then filtering to obtain algae;
dispersing the algae body again in water, leaching by a thermokalite method, centrifugally collecting the supernatant, repeatedly extracting for three times, mixing the supernatant, adding second absolute ethyl alcohol, precipitating with alcohol at low temperature, centrifugally collecting the precipitate, and drying to obtain the crude extract of the sheath micro-sphingomyelinase;
and (3) dissolving the crude extract of the microcystis vaginalis with water again, washing with acetone to remove pigments, and then deproteinizing with chloroform-n-butanol to obtain the microcystis vaginalis polysaccharide, namely the desert algae skin care raw material.
In an alternative embodiment, the ratio of the sheath micro-algae powder to the first absolute ethyl alcohol is 1:20-30, and the hot alkaline leaching comprises the steps of adjusting the pH to 9-11 by 2-3 wt% NaOH and leaching for 3-4 hours by 65-75 ℃ hot water; the volume ratio of the supernatant to the second absolute ethyl alcohol is 1:3-5; the mixing volume ratio of chloroform to n-butanol in the chloroform-n-butanol is 3-5:1.
In a second aspect, the invention provides a skin care product, which comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.01-20% of humectant, 0.02-0.8% of thickener, 0.01-1% of PH regulator, 0.01-0.15% of preservative, 0.01-5% of skin conditioner, 0.01-0.5% of solubilizer, 0.005-0.5% of aromatic, 0.01-20% of skin soothing agent and the balance of water, wherein the skin soothing agent is the desert algae skin care raw material applied to the preparation of the skin soothing agent.
In alternative embodiments, the skin care product comprises an aqueous, lotion, cream, or gel.
In a third aspect, the invention provides a soothing cream, which comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
the phase A comprises isopropyl myristate 3.00%, cyclomethicone 2.00%, caprylic/capric triglyceride 3.00%, oleyl erucate 2.00%, cyclohexasiloxane 1.00%, polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate 1.50%, shea butter 2.00%, dimethicone 3.00%, a complex of polyacrylamide and laureth-7 and C13-14 isoparaffin 0.30%, a complex of C12-15 alcohol benzoate 1.00%, a complex of PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate 1.00%, tocopheryl acetate 0.30%, olive oil unsaponifiable matter 0.20%, glyceryl polyacrylate 2.00%, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer 0.40%, butylhydroxytoluene 0.05%, and essence 0.18%;
the phase B comprises the balance of water, 3.00% of glycerol, 1.00% of 1, 3-propanediol, 1.00% of panthenol, 1.00% of betaine, 0.12% of aminomethylpropanol, 0.10% of allantoin, 0.20% of carbomer and 0.01% of manganese chloride;
the C phase comprises polyethylene glycol-90M 2.00% and butanediol 3.00%;
the phase D comprises 0.5% -20% of the desert algae skin care raw material, 0.40% of phenoxyethanol, 0.40% of 1, 2-hexanediol and 0.50% of lactobacillus/soybean fermentation product extract, which are applied to the preparation of the skin soothing agent;
the preparation method of the soothing cream comprises the following steps:
adding the phase A into an oil phase pot, stirring and heating to 80-85 ℃ to fully dissolve the phase A;
adding the phase B into an emulsifying pot, stirring and heating to 80-85 ℃ to fully dissolve the phase B;
slowly pumping the oil phase substances in the oil phase pot to the emulsifying pot, stirring, homogenizing, emulsifying in vacuum, and keeping the temperature of the emulsifying pot at 80-85 ℃;
cooling to 42 ℃, adding the phase C and the phase D, and uniformly stirring; cooling to 37 ℃, discharging, and standing for 24 hours.
The invention has the following beneficial effects: the desert algae skin care raw material selected by the invention has strong skin soothing capability, has development value as skin soothing agent production and application, can obviously inhibit macrophage inflammatory factor release, and obviously reduces skin heme content, and can be widely applied to skin care products or cosmetics as soothing agents. The skin care product takes the desert algae skin care raw material as a skin soothing agent, reduces the release of inflammatory factors, inhibits the increase of skin heme caused by external stimulus, and improves the symptoms of skin, especially dry skin.
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In order to more clearly illustrate the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention, the drawings that are needed in the embodiments will be briefly described below, it being understood that the following drawings only illustrate some embodiments of the present invention and therefore should not be considered as limiting the scope, and other related drawings may be obtained according to these drawings without inventive effort for a person skilled in the art.
FIG. 1 shows the results of tests for inhibiting macrophage inflammatory factor release at various concentrations of the sphingomyelin provided herein;
FIG. 2 is a graph showing the comparison of the effect of various algae extracts provided herein on inhibiting macrophage inflammatory factor release;
FIG. 3 is a graph showing a comparison of skin heme content in an anti-irritation test provided herein;
fig. 4 is a graph showing a comparison of skin heme content in a soothing stimulus test provided herein.
Detailed Description
In order to make the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the embodiments of the present invention more clear, the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below. The specific conditions are not noted in the examples and are carried out according to conventional conditions or conditions recommended by the manufacturer. The reagents or apparatus used were conventional products commercially available without the manufacturer's attention.
The sheath-containing microcystis disclosed by the invention is separated from arid areas of a desert in China, the sheath-containing microcystis can grow and propagate in the harsh (arid, strong radiation, severe temperature change and high salt and alkali) environment of the desert area, and biological crust is formed by secreting extracellular polysaccharide and applying mechanical constraint force, so that the sheath-containing microcystis is used for preventing and controlling sand and promoting ecological restoration of the desert area.
Accordingly, the present application provides a novel use of a desert algae skin care raw material, for example, the novel use includes the use of a desert algae skin care raw material in the preparation of a skin soothing agent.
The skin care raw material of the desert algae in the application particularly refers to the polysaccharide of the sheath microalgae, and the extraction method comprises the following steps:
(1) Culturing and harvesting the micro-sheath algae, and drying and pulverizing to obtain micro-sheath algae powder; the drying in the application is preferably freeze drying, and the drying under low temperature condition can keep the active substances in the algae body to the maximum extent without being destroyed.
(2) Adding first absolute ethyl alcohol into the powder of the microcystis vaginalis, shaking the powder of the microcystis vaginalis and the first absolute ethyl alcohol in a feed liquid ratio of 1:20-30, and then filtering to obtain the algae. The absolute ethyl alcohol can be used for primarily depigmenting and degreasing algae.
(3) Dispersing algae again in water, leaching by hot alkaline method, centrifuging to collect supernatant, repeatedly extracting for three times, mixing the supernatants, adding second absolute ethanol, precipitating with ethanol at low temperature, centrifuging to collect precipitate, and drying to obtain crude extract of Microcystis vaginalis with sheath;
wherein the hot alkaline leaching comprises adjusting pH to 9-11 with 2wt% -3 wt% NaOH, leaching with 65-75deg.C hot water for 3-4h; the volume ratio of the supernatant to the second absolute ethyl alcohol is 1:3-5;
(4) The method comprises the steps of performing crude extraction and redissolving of the glycosphingoid in water, washing with acetone to remove pigments, and then deproteinizing with chloroform-n-butanol (the volume ratio of chloroform to n-butanol is 3-5:1) to obtain glycosphingoid polysaccharide.
Washing the crude extract with acetone to further remove residual pigment and oil, and redissolving in water to obtain crude extract water solution; adding chloroform-n-butanol mixed solution into the crude extract water solution, shaking thoroughly, denaturing free protein into insoluble substances, centrifuging, separating into two phases, separating denatured protein generally to produce a white band at the junction of two phases, and centrifuging to obtain desert algae skin care raw material. By adopting the preparation method, the protein in the glycosphingoid can be effectively removed, only the glycosphingoid polysaccharide is reserved, and the pigment, smell and the like of the extract can be obviously reduced, so that the glycosphingoid polysaccharide is more suitable for being applied to cosmetics, and the quality of the cosmetics is ensured.
The extracted glycosphingosine is used as the skin care raw material of the desert algae, and various experiments are carried out on the skin care raw material of the desert algae, and proved by the experiments, the skin care raw material of the desert algae has the effect of relieving the skin, has strong cell relieving capability, can remarkably inhibit the generation of macrophage inflammatory factors (NO) caused by lipopolysaccharide, reduces the release of the inflammatory factors, inhibits the increase of skin heme content caused by external stimulus, improves the symptoms of the skin, particularly dry skin, and is safe and stable, thereby laying the foundation for the industrialized application of the glycosphingosine. Thus, a skin soothing agent in this application is an agent that inhibits macrophage inflammatory factor release and reduces skin heme content.
Therefore, the application of the desert algae skin care raw material in preparing skin soothing agents, macrophage inflammatory factor release inhibitors or agents for reducing skin heme is provided.
In addition, the desert algae skin care raw material can be added into skin care products or cosmetics, so that the skin soothing effect of the skin care products or cosmetics is improved.
Specifically, the application provides application of the desert algae skin care raw material in preparing cosmetics or skin care products, and in particular, the application also provides a skin care product which comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.01-20% of humectant, 0.02-0.8% of thickener, 0.01-1% of PH regulator, 0.01-0.15% of preservative, 0.01-5% of skin conditioner, 0.01-0.5% of solubilizer, 0.005-0.5% of aromatic, 0.01-20% of skin soothing agent and the balance of water, wherein the skin soothing agent is a desert algae skin care raw material.
Wherein the humectant comprises, but is not limited to, dipropylene glycol, betaine, dipropylene glycol, panthenol, 1, 3-propanediol, butylene glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, sorbitol, panthenol, glycerin, PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer, glycerin polyacrylate, glycerin polyether-26, sodium hyaluronate, or a combination of two or more thereof.
Thickeners include, but are not limited to, one or a combination of two or more of acrylic/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymers, hydroxyethylcellulose, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, carbomer and ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer.
The pH adjustor includes, but is not limited to, one or a combination of two or more of aminomethylpropanol, citric acid, sodium citrate, potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, arginine, and the like.
Preservatives include, but are not limited to, one or a combination of two or more of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, benzoic acid and its salts, sorbic acid and its salts, chlorpheniramine, and propylparaben.
Skin conditioning agents include, but are not limited to, one or a combination of two or more of allantoin, ulva extract, hydrolyzed collagen, ceramide 2, beta-glucan, trehalose, squalane, brown algae extract, pomegranate fruit extract, p-hydroxyacetophenone, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, dipeptide diamino Ding Xianbian-ylamide diacetate, a bifidus fermentation product lysate, a yeast fermentation product filtrate, and a lactobacillus/soybean fermentation product extract. By adding skin conditioning agents, the skin is further supplemented with moisture, and skin aging can be slowed down. The effective components in the skin conditioner can penetrate deep into skin and be absorbed by skin, so as to improve skin state.
The solubilizing agent includes, but is not limited to, one or a combination of two or more of polysorbate-20, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PPG-26-butanol polyether-26, PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate, polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate, polyacrylamide and laureth-7 and C13-14 isoparaffin, glyceryl ether-25 PCA isostearate.
Fragrances include, but are not limited to, perfumes.
The skin soothing agent is a skin care material of desert algae, and the dosage of the skin soothing agent is 0.01-20%, preferably 0.5-20%, and more preferably 0.5-15%. Wherein, the skin soothing performance is increased along with the increase of the dosage, and the speed is slowed down after the skin soothing performance is increased to 20 percent, and the content of the skin soothing agent desert algae skin care raw material added is 0.5 to 15 percent based on the consideration of cost and effect.
In addition, chelating agent can be added into the skin care product, the addition amount of the chelating agent is 0-1%, and the chelating agent can be EDTA-2Na and/or EDTA-4Na and the like.
Such skin care products include, but are not limited to, aqueous solutions, emulsions, creams or gels. The desert algae skin care raw material is used as the skin soothing agent, so that the skin sensitivity caused by external stimulus can be effectively relieved.
The features and capabilities of the present invention are described in further detail below in connection with the examples.
Example 1: preparation of skin care raw material for desert algae
(1) The method for culturing the sphingoid microalgae separated from the arid desert area comprises the following steps:
the BG11 culture medium with the sheath micro-sheath algae comprises the following components: 1.5 g/L NaNO 3 ,0.04 g/L K 2 HPO 4 ,0.075 g/L MgSO 4 ·7H 2 O,0.0284 g/L CaCl 2 0.006 g/L citric acid, 0.006 g/L ferric ammonium citrate, 0.001 g/L EDTA-Na 2 ,0.02 g/L Na 2 CO 3 1mL/L A5 solution. The invention inoculates the micro-sheath algae with sheath into a plastic barrel with the volume of 50L to supplement CO 2 The pH of the culture medium is controlled between 7.0 and 8.0, the culture period is 4 weeks, the average temperature in the period is 25 ℃, the illumination condition is 1000-2000Lux, and the time is set to 12 hours of illumination/12 hours of darkness. And (5) harvesting the micro-sheath algae, and freeze-drying to prepare powder for later use.
(2) The extraction method of the skin care raw material of the desert algae comprises the following steps:
20g of powder of Microcystis vaginalis with sheath were weighed and 1:25, 500 ml absolute ethanol is added, and shaking is carried out at 45 ℃ and 180 rpm overnight to preliminarily remove pigment and grease. The next day the algae are collected by filtration and added with deionized water (1:20), the pH is adjusted to 10 by 2.5 percent NaOH, and the algae are leached for 3 hours by hot water at 70 ℃;
the mixture was centrifuged at 5000rpm to collect the supernatant. Repeatedly extracting the precipitate for three times after centrifugation, adding absolute ethanol with the volume of 4 times into the supernatant, carrying out ethanol precipitation for 12 hours at the temperature of 4 ℃, centrifugally collecting the precipitate, and freeze-drying to obtain crude extract of the micro-sphingomyelin with sheath;
(3) Performing purification operation on the crude extraction of the micro-sheath algae with the sheath:
washing the crude extract with acetone until the color of the eluent is no longer deepened, and then redissolving in water to obtain a crude extract aqueous solution;
adding chloroform-n-butanol mixed solution (4:1) into the crude extract water solution according to the ratio of 1:1, shaking thoroughly, centrifuging at 5000rpm to obtain water phase, repeating the above steps until no obvious white band appears between the two steps, and centrifuging to obtain the desert algae skin care raw material. By this operation, the pigment and smell of the extract can be remarkably reduced, and thus the skin relaxation test can be performed.
Example 2: cytotoxicity test
MTT stock: MTT was formulated as 5mg/mL with PBS, filtered (0.22 μm microporous membrane), and stored at 2℃to 8℃in the absence of light.
MTT working solution: the MTT stock solution was diluted to 1mg/mL with phenol-free red medium and ready for use.
The mouse monocyte macrophage leukemia cell line RAW264.7 strain used for the assay was passaged at least once before testing and plated in 96-well plates at 100 μl per well one day before testing. Cell fusion reaches 50% -70% to detect cytotoxicity of the test object. Discarding the culture medium in the 96-well plate, adding test substance solutions with different concentrations according to the final concentrations in table 1, setting a blank control group (NC), loading 100 mu L/well, loading 6 compound wells with each concentration, covering a cell plate cover after the loading, sealing edges, and culturing in a carbon dioxide incubator for 20-48 h.
After the cultivation is finished, the culture solution is discarded, PBS is used for washing 1 to 2 times, MTT working solution is added, 50 mu L/hole is added, the culture solution is continuously placed in a carbon dioxide incubator for cultivation for 2 to 6 hours, 150 mu L of DMSO is added into each hole, shaking is carried out for 5 to 10 minutes, an absorbance value at 570nm is measured by an enzyme-labeled instrument, and 630nm is used as a reference wavelength. According to the results, the cell viability is calculated, and when the cell viability of the sample at the corresponding concentration in the 96-well plate is more than or equal to 90% (table 1) and the morphology of the cells of the sample group is not obviously different from that of the cells of the blank group, the sample is not obviously cytotoxic at the concentration.
TABLE 1 cytotoxicity test sample concentrations and cell viability at corresponding concentrations
Figure SMS_1
Example 3: macrophage NO synthesis inhibition assay
The cell soothing performance of the desert algae skin care raw material is tested, and the adopted testing method is in-vitro macrophage Nitric Oxide (NO) release inhibition measurement.
Gris solution: the solution is prepared into 1% concentration by pure water, and is preserved at room temperature in dark place, and the solution should be clear and transparent.
Bacterial lipopolysaccharide is combined with macrophage surface antigen recognition receptor to induce macrophage to release inflammatory medium NO, excessive NO can promote macrophage to release IL-6, TNF-alpha and other inflammatory factors, and these inflammatory factors can promote cell to secrete more NO to form malignant circulation and aggravate inflammatory reaction. The inhibition of NO release by the sample was evaluated by measuring the NO inhibition rate of the sample group after administration, thereby evaluating whether the sample had a soothing effect. NO is easily oxidized into NO in vivo or in aqueous solution 2 Under acidic conditions, NO (NO) 2 Diazo reaction with diazonium salts of sulfonamides and formation of diazo compounds which are further coupled with naphthylvinyl diamines, the reaction yielding a product with a linear relationship with NO concentration and a maximum absorption peak at 540 nm. The relative amount of NO was calculated by measuring the Optical Density (OD) at 540nm with an ELISA reader.
The cells are inoculated into a 96-well plate one day before the test, when the inoculation amount of each well is 100 mu L and the cell fusion degree reaches 80% -90%, the culture medium in the 96-well plate is discarded, 50 mu L of the test substance solution is added into each well, and then 50 mu L of LPS working solution is added into each well, wherein the total volume of each well is 100 mu L. Meanwhile, a positive control group, a model control group and a blank control group are also arranged. The model control group was added with 50. Mu.L of test medium and 50. Mu.L of LPS working solution per well, and the blank control group was added with 100. Mu.L of test medium per well. Each group had 6 duplicate wells. After the sample is added, the 96-well plate is placed in a carbon dioxide incubator for incubation and culture for 24 hours plus or minus 2 hours. After incubation, 50. Mu.L of cell culture supernatant was collected per well and placed in a new 96-well plate, 50. Mu.L of Gris solution was added per well, and after mixing, the reaction was conducted in the dark for 10min, and OD was measured at 540nm using an ELISA reader.
NO inhibition% = (OD Model group −OD Sample of )/OD Model group ×100%
In this example, algae of different sources (chlorella and rhodococcus are cultivated by taking Sphingomonas with reference to the method of taking Haematococcus furiosus from Shandong coast, red hair alga and Sargassum from Guangdong coast) were also selected, and the extraction method was the same as that of the skin care raw material of desert algae.
Combining fig. 1 and 2 with table 2 below, different test substances were obtained for their inhibitory effect on macrophage NO release.
TABLE 2 inhibition of macrophage inflammatory factor Release by Microcystis vaginalis
Figure SMS_2
As can be seen from table 2, not all the algae extracts have the effect of inhibiting the release of macrophage inflammatory factor, especially the rhodophyta extract and the glycosphingosine therein have the effect of promoting the release of macrophage inflammatory factor, but the desert algae skin care raw material provided by the application can remarkably inhibit the generation of macrophage NO caused by lipopolysaccharide compared with algae from other sources, and the inhibition effect is enhanced along with the increase of the concentration of the desert algae skin care raw material. Compared with other algae extracts, the skin care raw material of the desert algae has excellent macrophage NO release inhibition effect, has wide application as a skin soothing agent, and has great potential as the skin soothing agent in the preparation of cosmetics. In addition, the pigment and protein extracts are not removed by the crude extraction of the microcystis vaginalis with the application, and the NO inhibition rate is obviously reduced compared with the skin care raw material of the desert algae with the same concentration, and the protein of the microcystis vaginalis with NO obvious NO release inhibition effect.
Example 4: skin care product
This example provides a skin care product formulated as shown in table 3 below for product examples 1-4 and product comparative example 1. Wherein, the skin care raw materials of the desert algae are added in different addition amounts in the product examples 1-4 as skin soothing agents, and the skin care raw materials of the desert algae are not added in the product comparative example 1.
TABLE 3 skin care product formulation
Figure SMS_3
The preparation process of the skin care product (soothing cream) with the formula in the embodiment comprises the following steps:
according to the contents (mass percent) of the components in the formulation in the above table 3, a soothing cream was prepared according to the following production process steps. The production process comprises the following steps:
1. adding the phase A raw material into an oil phase pot, stirring and heating to 80-85 ℃ to fully dissolve the phase A raw material;
2. adding phase B into emulsifying pot, stirring and heating to 80-85deg.C to dissolve thoroughly;
3. slowly pumping the oil phase substances in the oil phase pot to an emulsifying pot, stirring, homogenizing, emulsifying in vacuum, and keeping the temperature of the emulsifying pot at 80-85 ℃;
4. cooling to 42 ℃, adding the phase C and the phase D, and uniformly stirring;
5. cooling to 37 ℃, discharging, and standing for 24 hours;
6. and after the inspection is qualified, sub-packaging and packaging, inspecting again, and warehousing the finished product.
Note that: a, B, C, D phases in the process are respectively
Phase A: isopropyl myristate, cyclomethicone, caprylic/capric triglyceride, oleyl erucate, cyclohexasiloxane, polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate, shea butter, dimethicone, a complex of polyacrylamide and laureth-7 and C13-14 isoparaffins, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, a complex of PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate, tocopheryl acetate, olive oil unsaponifiables, glyceryl polyacrylate, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, butylated hydroxytoluene, perfume;
and B phase: water, glycerol, 1, 3-propanediol, panthenol, betaine, aminomethylpropanol, allantoin, carbomer, manganese chloride;
and C phase: polyethylene glycol-90M, butylene glycol;
and D phase: skin care materials of desert algae, phenoxyethanol, 1, 2-hexanediol, lactobacillus/soybean fermentation product extract.
Wherein glycerol, panthenol, betaine, glycerol polyacrylate, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol and butanediol are used as humectant;
isopropyl myristate, cyclomethicone, caprylic/capric triglyceride, oleyl erucate, cyclohexasiloxane, butter fruit, dimethicone, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, olive oil unsaponifiable matter is oil;
polyethylene glycol-90M, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, carbomer are thickeners;
the skin care raw material of the desert algae is skin soothing agent;
the complex of polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate, polyacrylamide and laureth-7 and C13-14 isoparaffin, PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate are emulsifiers;
lactobacillus/soybean fermentation product extract, allantoin and manganese chloride are skin conditioner;
butylated hydroxytoluene, tocopheryl acetate are antioxidants;
phenoxyethanol is a preservative;
aminomethylpropanol is a pH adjuster; the essence is a fragrance.
PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate, manufacturer, heda, trade name: arlael 165;
the manufacturer of the composite of polyacrylamide and laureth-7 and C13-14 isoparaffin is Sepick under the trademark Sepigel 305.
In this example, the skin heme content test was performed on the resulting soothing cream.
Principle of skin heme test: all sensitive skin has subclinical skin inflammation, which leads to increased vascular permeability and heme deposition. The skin is too thin and is easy to be stimulated by the outside, contact dermatitis, red blood wires and other phenomena occur, and the potential inflammatory reaction of the skin can be aggravated. The heme content of the skin is determined by measuring the amount of reflection of light of a specific wavelength after it impinges on the skin of a human body based on the principle of spectral absorption (RGB). The emitter of the instrument probe emits light with three wavelengths of 568nm, 660nm and 880nm to the skin surface, and the receiver measures the reflected light of the skin. Since the amount of emitted light is constant, the amount of light absorbed by the skin can be measured, and the skin heme content can be measured. The measurement range of the instrument is 0-999, and the higher the measurement value is, the higher the heme content in the skin is.
Skin heme test method: the number of subjects was 20, and the skin care products of product examples 1 to 4 and the skin care product of product comparative example 1 were selected as test samples, and 5 different areas were divided in the forearm of the subjects, with a spreading amount of about 2mg/cm 2 . The skin heme content was tested using a pigment detector from CK corporation in germany, wherein the test probe MX 18 consisted of a light source emitter and receiver, with a spring to keep the pressure on the skin constant during the test. The soothing effect of the product on the skin of the test area was evaluated by measuring the skin heme content (relative to the initial value before application of the sample) before and after use of the product.
Anti-stimulus model: the skin care products of product examples 1 to 4 and the skin care product of product comparative example 1 were respectively mixed with SDS in a mass fraction of 1% as test samples, and then a 24-hour patch test was performed on the forearm flexor side of the volunteer, and after 24 hours of application, the patch tester was removed. The soothing efficacy was evaluated 0.5h and days 1,3, and 7 after the patch was torn.
Comfort stimulation model: after the skin injury induced by 24h patch on the forearm flexor side of the volunteer with 1% SDS by mass fraction, different sample groups were used daily, respectively, in the morning and evening, the degree of change of skin heme was recorded, and the soothing efficacy was evaluated at 0.5h and 1/3/7 day after patch tearing.
Referring to fig. 3 and table 4 below, table 4 shows skin heme contents, and fig. 3 shows skin heme contents.
TABLE 4 skin heme content of anti-irritation model
Figure SMS_4
Referring to fig. 4 and table 5 below, table 5 shows skin heme content and fig. 4 is a graph comparing skin heme content.
TABLE 5 skin heme content of comfort stimulus model
Figure SMS_5
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The decrease ratio = [ (0.5 h skin heme content-initial skin heme content) - (7 th skin heme content-initial skin heme content) ]/(0.5 h skin heme content-initial skin heme content) ×100%.
Therefore, the skin care product can be added with the skin care raw material of the desert algae to reduce the heme content of the skin, thereby playing a role in relieving the skin. Meanwhile, the effect of the desert algae skin care raw material is increased along with the increase of the dosage of the desert algae skin care raw material. The cost and effect of the desert algae are comprehensively compared, and the addition amount of the skin care raw materials of the desert algae is 0.5-15% which is a better implementation scheme.
The above description is only of the preferred embodiments of the present invention and is not intended to limit the present invention, but various modifications and variations can be made to the present invention by those skilled in the art. Any modification, equivalent replacement, improvement, etc. made within the spirit and principle of the present invention should be included in the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims (4)

1. The application of the skin care raw material of the desert algae in the preparation of the skin soothing agent is characterized in that the skin care raw material of the desert algae is glycosphingosine with sheath, and the skin soothing agent is an agent for inhibiting the release of macrophage inflammatory factors and reducing the content of skin heme;
the preparation method of the desert algae skin care raw material comprises the following steps:
culturing and harvesting the micro-sheath algae, and drying and pulverizing to obtain micro-sheath algae powder;
adding first absolute ethyl alcohol into the sheath micro-sheath algae powder, shaking by a shaking table, and then filtering to obtain algae;
dispersing the algae body again in water, leaching by a thermokalite method, centrifugally collecting the supernatant, repeatedly extracting for three times, mixing the supernatant, adding second absolute ethyl alcohol, precipitating with alcohol at low temperature, centrifugally collecting the precipitate, and drying to obtain the crude extract of the sheath micro-sphingomyelinase;
dissolving the crude extract of the microcystis vaginalis with water again, adopting acetone to wash to remove pigment, and adopting chloroform-n-butanol to remove protein to obtain the microcystis vaginalis polysaccharide, namely the desert algae skin care raw material;
the ratio of the sheath micro-algae powder to the first absolute ethyl alcohol is 1:20-30, and the hot alkaline leaching comprises the steps of adopting 2-3 wt% NaOH to adjust the pH value to 9-11, and leaching for 3-4h by hot water at 65-75 ℃; the volume ratio of the supernatant to the second absolute ethyl alcohol is 1:3-5; the mixing volume ratio of chloroform to n-butanol in the chloroform-n-butanol is 3-5:1.
2. The skin care product is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass: 0.01-20% of humectant, 0.02-0.8% of thickener, 0.01-1% of PH regulator, 0.01-0.15% of preservative, 0.01-5% of skin conditioner, 0.01-0.5% of solubilizer, 0.005-0.5% of aromatic, 0.01-20% of skin soothing agent and the balance of water, wherein the skin soothing agent is the desert algae skin care raw material for the use of the desert algae skin care raw material in the preparation of skin soothing agent according to claim 1.
3. The skin care product according to claim 2, wherein the skin care product comprises an aqueous agent, an emulsion, a cream or a gel.
4. A soothing cream is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass:
the phase A comprises isopropyl myristate 3.00%, cyclomethicone 2.00%, caprylic/capric triglyceride 3.00%, oleyl erucate 2.00%, cyclohexasiloxane 1.00%, polyglycerol-3 methyl glucose distearate 1.50%, shea butter 2.00%, dimethicone 3.00%, a complex of polyacrylamide and laureth-7 and C13-14 isoparaffin 0.30%, a complex of C12-15 alcohol benzoate 1.00%, a complex of PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate 1.00%, tocopheryl acetate 0.30%, olive oil unsaponifiable matter 0.20%, glyceryl polyacrylate 2.00%, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer 0.40%, butylhydroxytoluene 0.05%, and essence 0.18%;
the phase B comprises the balance of water, 3.00% of glycerol, 1.00% of 1, 3-propanediol, 1.00% of panthenol, 1.00% of betaine, 0.12% of aminomethylpropanol, 0.10% of allantoin, 0.20% of carbomer and 0.01% of manganese chloride;
the C phase comprises polyethylene glycol-90M 2.00% and butanediol 3.00%;
phase D comprises 0.5% -20% of the desert algae skin care raw material, 0.40% of phenoxyethanol, 0.40% of 1, 2-hexanediol, 0.50% of lactobacillus/soybean fermentation product extract for the use of the desert algae skin care raw material in the preparation of a skin soothing agent;
the preparation method of the soothing cream comprises the following steps:
adding the phase A into an oil phase pot, stirring and heating to 80-85 ℃ to fully dissolve the phase A;
adding the phase B into an emulsifying pot, stirring and heating to 80-85 ℃ to fully dissolve the phase B;
slowly pumping the oil phase substances in the oil phase pot to the emulsifying pot, stirring, homogenizing, emulsifying in vacuum, and keeping the temperature of the emulsifying pot at 80-85 ℃;
cooling to 42 ℃, adding the phase C and the phase D, and uniformly stirring; cooling to 37 ℃, discharging, and standing for 24 hours.
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JPH10265399A (en) * 1997-03-27 1998-10-06 Agency Of Ind Science & Technol Antiallergic agent and antiinflammatory agent
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CN111991276A (en) * 2020-09-28 2020-11-27 新疆金正生物科技有限公司 Moisturizing cream containing desert algae extract and preparation method
CN114053169A (en) * 2020-07-30 2022-02-18 巴斯夫美容护理法国公司 Beauty treatment use of blue algae polysaccharide in water temple
CN114917178A (en) * 2022-05-27 2022-08-19 广州市科能化妆品科研有限公司 Soothing and repairing composition suitable for dry skin in desert and application thereof
CN115569106A (en) * 2022-09-09 2023-01-06 广州市科能化妆品科研有限公司 Water extract of spirulina H11 strain, preparation method and application thereof, and skin care product

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JPH10265399A (en) * 1997-03-27 1998-10-06 Agency Of Ind Science & Technol Antiallergic agent and antiinflammatory agent
CN105949345A (en) * 2016-05-06 2016-09-21 信阳师范学院 Extraction method of microcoleus vaginatus intracellular polysaccharide
CN114053169A (en) * 2020-07-30 2022-02-18 巴斯夫美容护理法国公司 Beauty treatment use of blue algae polysaccharide in water temple
CN111991276A (en) * 2020-09-28 2020-11-27 新疆金正生物科技有限公司 Moisturizing cream containing desert algae extract and preparation method
CN114917178A (en) * 2022-05-27 2022-08-19 广州市科能化妆品科研有限公司 Soothing and repairing composition suitable for dry skin in desert and application thereof
CN115569106A (en) * 2022-09-09 2023-01-06 广州市科能化妆品科研有限公司 Water extract of spirulina H11 strain, preparation method and application thereof, and skin care product

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