FR3110422A1 - Lavandula absolute for its cosmetic use - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of an absolute obtained by maceration of a plant material obtained from a species of Lavandula in a terpene solvent as a soothing agent, in particular for relieving the cutaneous discomfort of sensitive, reactive skin. or with atopic tendency.

Description

Lavandula absolute for its cosmetic use

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic active agents.

TECHNOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

The skin is the first barrier protecting the body from external aggressions. This organ is made up of several layers of tissue. We distinguish (i) the epidermis which is the outermost part of the skin, (ii) the dermis, a connective tissue made up of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix which ensures the functions of cohesion and nutrition of the skin, and (iii) the hypodermis consisting of adipocytes.

The epidermis is made up of several cell layers of keratinocytes. We distinguish, among others, the germinative layer of the epidermis, called the basal layer, containing, in particular, the cutaneous stem cells, the spiny layer, Stratum spinosum, made up of several layers of polygonal cells, the granular layer, Stratum granulosum , comprising one to three layers of flattened cells containing cytoplasmic inclusions, the grains of keratohyaline, and finally, the stratum corneum, Stratum corneum which is composed of anucleated cells rich in keratin called corneocytes which correspond to the terminal stage of differentiation of keratinocytes.

The outermost cells of the stratum corneum are continually shed and replaced by cells from a lower layer, in a process called desquamation. Cellular regeneration of the stratum corneum is based on a process of cell maturation in which the cells of the basal layer of the epidermis differentiate and gradually migrate through the different strata of the epidermis until they reach the stratum corneum below. the form of corneocytes.

Furthermore, the cells of the stratum corneum are linked together via epidermal lipids. These lipids create a protective barrier and have a hydro-retentive power. In case of lipid deficiency, the skin can become dry, tight and rough.
The epidermis is, moreover, covered with an emulsion of water and lipids (fats), called hydrolipidic film. This film, renewed by the secretions of the sebaceous and sweat glands, helps keep the skin supple and acts as an additional barrier against pathogens and irritants.

Sensitive skin is characterized by disproportionate reactivity. It is a frequent non-pathological condition characterized by skin discomfort, that is to say by a set of unpleasant sensations such as itching, tingling, burning or tightness, in response to an external factor. This increased reactivity results from an alteration of the barrier function of the skin. Surface lipids are produced in less quantity leading to an increase in the permeability of the skin to irritating agents and an alteration of its ability to retain water. The skin suffers from cutaneous dryness and irritants can penetrate deeper into the epidermis, leading in particular to inflammatory reactions. Eventually, the skin's tolerance threshold decreases, the skin becomes drier, rougher and shows redness, skin discomfort sets in.

The phenomenon of sensitive skin is particularly present on the face. It is prevalent in women and extremely widespread in infants, young children and the elderly who have a particularly thin epidermis, and therefore a limited barrier function. The phenomenon of sensitive skin can be accentuated by certain internal causes such as hormonal changes at the time of menopause or pregnancy, or even stress, lack of sleep, the existence of an atopic site, and poor food but also by external factors such as climatic conditions (wind, cold, solar radiation), pollution (nanoparticles, ozone), and certain cosmetic treatments such as peelings, hair removal and shaving.

The care of sensitive skin requires the development of cosmetic products capable of intensely nourishing the skin and relieving feelings of discomfort. It is based on the combined use of hydrating, emollient and lipid-replenishing agents to nourish and soften the skin. Soothing active ingredients are also used, that is to say active ingredients capable of relieving and preventing sensations of skin discomfort such as licochalcone A, bisabolol, allantoin, panthenol, avenanthramides, extracts of aloe, licorice, marigold ( Calendula officinalis ), birch (eg Betula alba ), oat seedlings ( Avena sativa ), or willowherb ( Epilobium angustifolium ).

There still exists, at the present time, a need for new soothing cosmetic agents, in particular for relieving sensitive skin.

The subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of an absolute obtained by maceration of a plant material derived from a species of Lavandula in a terpene solvent as a soothing agent for the skin. The absolute can be obtained by a process comprising:

a) a step comprising the maceration of a Lavandula plant material, preferably flowering tops, in a terpene solvent, the recovery of the liquid phase after maceration and the elimination of the terpene solvent from this liquid phase so as to obtain a concrete, and

b) a stage of elimination of the waxes present in the concrete so as to obtain an absolute.

The terpene solvent can comprise at least 85%, preferably at least 90% by weight of terpene compounds. In some embodiments, the absolute is a lavender absolute. The lavandin absolute may comprise at least 8.0% of sesquiterpene compounds, the percentage corresponding to the percentage of area represented by the peaks of the sesquiterpene compounds relative to the total area of the peaks of the chromatogram obtained by GC/FID analysis of the absolute.

In certain embodiments the absolute is used as an agent to stimulate the proliferation of keratinocytes in order to prevent or treat the thinning of the epidermis associated with skin aging. In other embodiments, the absolute is used to reduce skin or scalp discomfort.

By way of example, the absolute according to the invention can be used:

- to reduce, relieve or prevent feelings of tightness, tingling and/or itching in the skin, and/or

- to reduce the urge to scratch at the level of the skin and/or

- to reduce feelings of irritation in the skin and/or

- to reduce, relieve or prevent feelings of skin dryness or dehydration, and/or

- to treat or prevent transient redness, and/or

- to make the skin less rough and/or more supple.

In some embodiments, the absolute is used on sensitive, reactive, or atopy-prone skin.

Absolute is usually present as an active agent in a topical composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight. Said composition may be intended for sensitive, reactive or atopic-prone skin. The topical composition may comprise at least one additional cosmetic agent, preferably chosen from the group consisting of vitamins, sun filters and screens, anti-aging or anti-wrinkle agents, antioxidants, lifting agents, firming agents, anti-stain agents, anti-redness agents, slimming agents, draining agents, moisturizing agents, soothing agents, exfoliating or exfoliating agents, mattifying agents, sebum-regulating agents, lightening active agents, self-tanning active agents , tanning accelerators and combinations thereof.

The topical composition can be of any type. It can be chosen from the group consisting of aqueous solutions, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) or multiple emulsions (triple: W/O/W or O/W/O), nanoemulsions, in particular O/W nanoemulsions, the size of the drops of which is less than 100 nm, aqueous gels, or dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using spherules , suspensions, preferably in aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic media, suspensions of liposomes, powders, lotions, milks, creams, ointments, gels, mousses and ointments. It may in particular be a cosmetic product, a make-up product, a perfuming product or a body hygiene product, for example a lotion, a milk, a serum, an aqueous or oily gel. , an emulsion, a cream, in particular a day cream or a night cream, a gel-cream, a care water, an ointment, a balm, a foundation, a spray, an eye shadow, a mascara, a stick, lipstick, gloss, lip balm, mousse, in particular shaving foam, deodorant, aftershave, shampoo, conditioner, nail varnish, care oil , a cleansing oil, a nourishing mask, a shower gel, an eau de toilette or a perfume.

A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition comprising an absolute as defined above as active cosmetic agent and at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, said composition being intended for sensitive, reactive or damaged skin. atopic tendency.

A further object according to the invention is a method for preparing an absolute from a plant material of Lavandula having soothing properties for the skin, said method comprising:

a) a step of preparing a concrete in which the Lavandula plant material is macerated in a terpene solvent, the liquid phase is recovered after maceration and the terpene solvent is removed from this liquid phase so as to obtain a concrete, and

b) a stage of elimination of the waxes present in the concrete so as to obtain an absolute.

In some embodiments, the method includes one or more of the following features:

- Lavandula plant material includes, or consists of, flowering tops, and/or

- The species of Lavandula is lavandin, and/or

- The terpene solvent comprises at least 85%, preferably at least 90% or even at least 95% by weight of terpene compounds, and/or

- At least 80% of the terpene compounds present in the solvent are monoterpenes or monoterpenoids, and/or

- The terpene solvent is a natural solvent preferably obtained by extraction from a plant material, and/or

- The maceration step is carried out at a temperature between 40°C and 60°C for at least 90 min, and/or

- The terpene solvent is eliminated, at least partially, by distillation under reduced pressure at the end of step a), and/or

- In step b), the waxes are removed by cold precipitation in an alcohol or a hydroalcoholic solution titrated to at least 90% alcohol.

Description of the invention

Absolutes are plant extracts mainly used as a fragrance in perfumery. They are typically obtained by a process in which the starting plant material is macerated in a volatile organic solvent for a certain time, then the liquid phase is separated from the plant material. After elimination of the solvent by distillation, a residue in the form of a solid or a paste rich in waxes and odorous molecules is obtained. This residue, called concrete, can then be dissolved in ethanol and the waxes eliminated by cold precipitation to give the absolute.

Absolutes are complementary to essential oils in perfumery. They contain fragrant volatile molecules but also heavier fragrant molecules, which provide particularly interesting base notes. While essential oils are used in aromatherapy and cosmetics, the use of absolutes outside of perfumery is anecdotal.

Surprisingly, the Applicant has identified that lavandin absolute has particularly interesting cosmetic properties. Lavandin absolute is able to inhibit the synthesis of an inflammatory mediator, namely interleukin-6 (IL-6) in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) after stimulation with interleukin-6. 1 (IL-1).

The Applicant has succeeded in potentiating the anti-inflammatory properties of lavender absolute by modifying its extraction process. The Applicant has thus shown that the absolute of lavandin obtained by maceration in a natural terpene solvent is more effective in inhibiting the production of IL-8 in dermal fibroblasts than the absolute obtained by maceration in a conventional solvent of the alkane type. . The Applicant has also shown that the absolute thus obtained inhibits the production of IL-6 in fibroblasts stimulated by IL-1. Said absolute is also capable of stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes.

These results underline the interest of lavandin absolutes obtained by maceration in a terpene solvent as cosmetic active ingredients for the management of so-called sensitive, reactive or intolerant skin by normalizing their reactivity towards external factors and by improving their barrier function of the skin.

More generally, these results demonstrate the advantage of using an absolute obtained by maceration of a plant material derived from a species of the genus Lavandula in a terpene solvent as a soothing agent for the skin or the scalp.

Thus, according to a first aspect, the subject of the invention is the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of an absolute of Lavandula as a cosmetic agent, preferably as a soothing agent for the skin, including leather. hairy.

1. Absolute according to the invention and method of obtaining

The invention relates to the cosmetic uses of absolutes obtained from plants of the Lavandula genus such as lavandin and lavender.

“ Lavandula ” means any plant species belonging to the genus Lavandula . Lavandula species include lavender species as well as hybrids thereof, including lavandin.

Lavender species include, but are not limited to, Lavandula angustifolia Mill. (also known as true lavender), Lavandula latifolia Medik . (also known as spike lavender), and Lavandula stoechas L. (also known as butterfly lavender).

By “ lavandin ” is meant the hybrids resulting from true lavender and aspic. These hybrids are known as Lavandula angustifolia Mill. x Lavandula latifolia Medik . , Lavandula hybrida, and Lavandula x intermedia . There are several varieties of lavandin including the abrialis, grosso, super and sumian varieties.

In a preferred embodiment, the Lavandula absolute is a lavandin absolute.

The absolute according to the invention is obtained from one or more aerial parts of a plant belonging to the genus Lavandula . It may be an absolute obtained from stems, flowers and/or flowering tops of a Lavandula plant. In some embodiments, the Lavandula plant may be organically grown.

In a preferred embodiment, the invention relates to the implementation of an absolute obtained from flowering tops, preferably fresh, of lavandin.

Lavandula absolute is cosmetically acceptable, that is, it is non-toxic when used at the usual concentrations in cosmetics or perfumes).

In the context of the present invention, the term "absolute" means any fat-soluble extract of plant material which can be obtained by a process comprising:

a) a step of extracting the plant material with a volatile solvent so as to obtain a concrete containing both odorous molecules and waxes, and

b) a stage of elimination of the waxes present in the concrete so as to obtain the absolute.

In step a), the plant material is traditionally macerated in a volatile organic solvent such as C5-C7 alkanes, for example in pentane, hexane, heptane, cyclohexane or mixtures thereof . However, these solvents from the petrochemical industry have many drawbacks, such as, for example, high flammability, dangerousness for health and the environment and a non-renewable origin. In its search for more environmentally friendly and eco-responsible extraction methods, the Applicant sought a more environmentally friendly solvent capable of replacing alkanes in the preparation of absolutes from plants of the Lavandula genus.

Surprisingly, the Applicant has shown that the use of a terpene solvent as a maceration solvent makes it possible to obtain a lavandin absolute having an interesting olfactory profile and soothing properties that are clearly superior to those of the absolutes obtained by extraction with hexane.

Thus, in the context of the present invention, step a) is preferably carried out by maceration of the plant material derived from a plant of the genus Lavandula in a terpene solvent.

The term " terpene solvent or solvent rich in terpene compounds " means a solvent having a content of at least 80%, preferably at least 85%, 90%, 95%, 98%, 99% or even 100% in weight of terpene derivatives.

It is preferably a terpene solvent which can be at least partially or totally eliminated from the maceration medium by distillation under reduced pressure at a temperature below 150°C.

The terpene solvent is preferably liquid at ambient temperature (for example at 20-25°C).

The term “ terpene derivatives ” means terpenes and their derivatives, in particular terpenoid compounds. Terpenes correspond to hydrocarbons resulting from the combination of several isoprene units. They fall into several classes of compounds based on the number of isoprene units they contain. Terpenes include in particular monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, diterpenes and triterpenes. Terpenes can be cyclic or acyclic.

Terpenoids are derivatives of terpenes comprising additional functional groups, comprising in particular an oxygen (for example an ester, alcohol, ketone or even etheroxide function) and/or alkyl groups in minus (for example one methyl in minus). Terpenoids include, but are not limited to, terpene alcohols (or monoterpenols), terpene ketones and aldehydes, terpene ethers, and terpene esters. Just like terpenes, terpenoids fall into several classes of compounds based on the number of isoprene units they contain. Terpenoids can be cyclic or acyclic.

In a particular embodiment, at least 60% by weight of the terpene compounds present in the terpene solvent are chosen from the group consisting of monoterpenes, monoterpenoids and mixtures thereof. By way of example, the monoterpenes and the monoterpenoids can represent at least 80%, preferably at least 85% or even 90%, 95% or 98% by weight of the terpene compounds present in the terpene solvent. Preferably, the monoterpenoid compounds present in the solvent are chosen from monoterpenols and monoterpenol acetates.

Examples of monoterpenes include ocimene, myrcene, limonene, α-pinene, β-pinene, camphene, terpinolene, and p-cymene.

By way of example of monoterpenoids, mention may be made of terpene alcohols such as linalool, eucaplyptol, menthol, nerol, geraniol, citronellol, borneol, terpineols and the acetate esters thereof, or also terpene ketones and aldehydes such as citral, geranial, citronellal, camphor, and carvone.

The terpene solvent may consist of a mixture of terpene compounds, or be essentially composed (i.e. at least 95%, 96%, 98%, 99% or 100%) of a single terpene compound.

Preferably, it is a solvent comprising a mixture of terpene compounds, in which the monoterpenes and the monoterpenoids represent at least 80% by weight, preferably at least 90% or even at least 95% by weight of the total terpene compounds present in the solvent.

The terpene solvent may be a synthetic solvent, that is to say a solvent in which at least one of the terpene compounds which it comprises has been prepared by chemical synthesis.

In a preferred embodiment, the terpene solvent is a natural solvent, i.e. a solvent prepared from plant, animal or microbial material. In other words, it is a biobased solvent.

In a particular embodiment, the terpene solvent is prepared by a process for extracting a natural material, preferably a plant material known to contain terpene compounds, in particular monoterpene compounds. It may be a raw material from a plant belonging to the Lamiaceae family, for example mint, sage, thyme, oregano, lavender, lavandin, rosemary, to the Pinaceae family. in particular pines (genus Pinus ), or even the Rutaceae family, in particular species of the Citrus genus , for example lemon trees or orange trees.

The starting plant material, which is used to prepare the terpene solvent, may consist of bark, berries, flowers, leaves, zests, resins, in particular resinous oleoresins, rhizomes, roots, wood , seeds, needles, or cell cultures, seedlings, and combinations thereof.

By way of example, it may be a terpene solvent prepared by extraction of an oleoresin from pine, by extraction of bark or zest of citrus fruits or else by extraction of flowers and/or leaves of a plant in the Lamiaceae family.

The terpene solvent can be prepared using any extraction process making it possible to recover the volatile terpene compounds of interest, in particular monoterpenes and monoterpenoids. The extraction process may comprise one or more fractionation steps such as one or more solid-liquid extraction steps, using a volatile organic solvent, a subcritical or supercritical fluid extraction step, in particular by supercritical CO ₂ , a mechanical extraction stage, in particular by cold expression, one or more distillation stages, for example hydrodistillation, distillation by steam distillation, fractional distillation or molecular distillation and combinations of these. Several extraction and/or purification techniques can be combined to obtain a terpene solvent enriched in volatile monoterpene compounds.

In some embodiments, the terpene solvent is a certified organic natural solvent, i.e. it has been prepared by an extraction process from a raw material obtained and certified from organic farming. .

Step a) can be carried out as follows: The plant material, preferably the flowering tops of Lavandula , for example lavandin, is covered with a terpene solvent as defined above. The plant material is left to macerate at a temperature between 40°C and 60°C for at least 90 min, generally for 60 to 120 min.

A sufficient volume of solvent is used to cover the plant material. The volume of solvent to be used is generally 1 to 10 liters per kg of plant material per maceration cycle and may vary depending on the starting plant material and the extractor used.

After maceration, the liquid phase is recovered.

The maceration step can be repeated, typically 1 to 5 times, e.g. 1, 2 or 3 times. At the end of the first maceration, the plant material is recovered and returned to macerate in the fresh or recycled solvent. After maceration, the liquid phase is recovered and combined with the liquid phase recovered after the first maceration. Preferably, a terpene solvent of the same composition is used in the different stages of maceration. The maceration time may be shorter in the additional maceration stage(s).

The terpene solvent is eliminated from the liquid phase by distillation under reduced pressure and is generally recycled with a view to carrying out a new extraction. The distillation residue constitutes the concrete which comes in a pasty or solid form rich in odorous molecules and waxes.

Step b) aims to eliminate the waxes present in the concrete in order to obtain the absolute. Different strategies can be used to eliminate the waxes, i.e. to obtain the absolute on one side and the waxes on the other.

The absolute can be recovered by carrying out a fractional extraction of the concrete by supercritical CO ₂ : the constituent molecules of the absolute are entrained by the supercritical fluid and recovered selectively by modulating the temperature and the pressure of the supercritical fluid.

An alternative solution is to remove the waxes by taking advantage of their difference in hot and cold solubility in alcohol. In this case, the concrete is taken up in an alcohol or a hydroalcoholic solution titrated to at least 90% alcohol. The solution obtained is homogenized, if necessary hot (for example at a temperature below 60° C.) then cooled so as to precipitate the waxes. Waxes can be removed by filtration. The absolute is then obtained from the filtrate collected by eliminating the alcohol, for example by concentration under vacuum.

During step b), some of the odorous molecules of interest can be trapped in the precipitated waxes, and therefore lost.

In order to improve the absolute yield, an additional step can be carried out to recover the odorous molecules trapped in the precipitated waxes. Typically, the precipitated waxes are taken up in alcohol or in the hydroalcoholic solution, homogenized hot, precipitated cold and filtered. The filtrate obtained is combined with the filtrate from step b). This step can be repeated until a satisfactory exhaustion of the waxes is obtained.

The alcohol used in step b) and in the optional wax exhaustion step can be any type of alcohol lower in C2-C5, in particular ethanol or an alcoholic solution titrated to 90% alcohol. Preferably, a bio-based ethanol (i.e. a bio-ethanol) or a hydroalcoholic solution comprising at least 90% by volume of bio-based ethanol is used in step b).

Steps a) and/or b) can be repeated as needed, for example to increase the yield.

The process for preparing an absolute of Lavandula , preferably of lavandin, may comprise one or more steps additional to those mentioned above, in particular steps of washing and/or grinding the starting plant material or even additional steps of purification by example by extraction by supercritical CO ₂ , molecular distillation or fractional distillation, by precipitation and/or by extraction, in particular liquid-liquid or solid-liquid extraction. Additional purification steps can be performed to improve the odor profile of the absolute or eliminate color.

In some embodiments, the method does not include additional purification steps in steps a) and b).

The method may also comprise a step of formulating the absolute according to the invention, for example by adding one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, in particular a cosmetically acceptable vehicle or carrier. For example, the absolute according to the invention can be diluted in a suitable organic or vegetable solvent, for example triethyl citrate, glycerol, propylene glycol or a vegetable oil from an oilseed, encapsulated in a vectorization system, for example. liposomes or even adsorbed on a solid vehicle.

A subject of the invention is also the process for obtaining an absolute of Lavandula , preferably of lavandin as described above.

As indicated above, in a preferred embodiment, the Lavandula absolute is obtained by maceration of a plant material derived from lavandin, preferably from flowering tops of lavandin.

Analyzes by gas chromatography coupled with a flame ionization detector (GC/FID) on an apolar column showed that the absolute of lavandin obtained by maceration in the terpene solvent contains the same type of volatile compounds as an absolute of lavandin obtained by extraction with hexane, but in distinctly different proportions.

Thus, in a particular embodiment, the absolute of Lavandula , preferably of lavandin according to the invention comprises at least 8% of sesquiterpene compounds. Preferably, the lavandin absolute comprises from 10.0% to 20.0% of sesquiterpene compounds chosen from beta-caryophyllene, trans beta-farnesene, gamma cadinene and alpha-bisabolol.

The absolute of Lavandula , preferably of lavandin according to the invention can in particular comprise from 3.0% to 7.0% of beta-caryophyllene, from 1.5% to 4.0% of bisabolol, at least 2.0 % trans-beta farnesene and at least 2.0% gamma-cadinene,

The Applicant has also observed a modification in the distribution of the monoterpene compounds.

In certain embodiments, the Lavandula , preferably lavandin, absolute according to the invention comprises less than 30.0%, preferably less than 25.0% of linalool, eucalyptol, camphor and borneol. The linalool content is typically less than 20.0%, preferably 8.0% to 18.0%.

The absolute according to the invention may additionally comprise at least 3.5% lavandulyl acetate, preferably from 4.0% to 7.0% lavandulyl acetate.

The absolute according to the invention can also comprise at least 20%, preferably from 25% to 40% of linalyl acetate

The percentages mentioned above correspond to the area percentage of the peak (or the peaks) corresponding to the chemical compound of interest (or to the chemical compounds of interest) compared to the total area of the peaks of the chromatogram obtained by GC analysis / FID, preferably carried out according to the conditions described in example 2.

2. Uses , processes and compositions cosmetics according to the invention

The Applicant has shown that the absolute according to the invention is capable of preventing the production of inflammation mediators in the fibroblasts and of inducing the proliferation of keratinocytes.

Thus, the subject of the invention is the cosmetic, non-therapeutic use of a Lavandula absolute as defined above, preferably a lavandin absolute as defined above, as a soothing or calming agent.

The term " cosmetic effect " means any non-therapeutic effect aimed at modifying and/or improving the appearance of the skin or mucous membranes such as the lips, at protecting them from external aggressions (sun, wind, humidity, dryness, chemicals) , to prevent and/or to correct non-pathological alterations of the skin or of its appendages and/or to prevent feelings of discomfort of the skin or of one of its appendages.

The cosmetic use according to the invention does not encompass the prevention or treatment of pathologies, in particular skin pathologies.

Within the meaning of the invention, the term “ skin ” designates any part of the skin of the human body, in particular the skin of the face, including the lips and the eyelids, the scalp, the neck, the skin of the hands and the skin of the feet. Skin appendages include nails, body hair, eyebrows, eyelashes and hair, preferably hair.

The term “ soothing or calming cosmetic agent” is understood to mean a cosmetic active agent capable of relieving, namely of reducing or preventing the discomfort of the skin and/or of the scalp.

The term " skin discomfort " is understood to mean a set of unpleasant sensations, unrelated to a pathology, such as feelings of tightness, tingling, itching, irritation or heating, sensations of dry or dehydrated skin, redness transients. These sensations are not linked to a pathology and can be induced by certain external factors (for example prolonged exposure to the sun, wind or cold), by certain cosmetic treatments (for example by too frequent washing with water limestone or with a hydroalcoholic solution, aggressive cosmetic treatments such as peeling, shaving, exfoliation, hair removal, coloring, permanent) or be associated with so-called sensitive, hypersensitive, reactive, intolerant or even atopic-prone skin.

The term “ sensitive, reactive or intolerant skin ” is understood to mean skin characterized by a disproportionate reactivity to external factors which causes skin discomfort. This increased reactivity may result from a non-pathological alteration of the barrier function of the skin which reduces the tolerance threshold of the skin vis-à-vis external stimuli.

The phenomenon of sensitive skin can be accentuated by certain internal causes such as hormonal changes at the time of menopause or pregnancy, or even stress, lack of sleep and poor diet, but also by external factors such as climatic conditions (wind, cold, solar radiation), pollution (nanoparticles, ozone), and certain cosmetic treatments such as peelings, shaving, or hair removal, in particular laser.

The term “ atopic- prone skin ” is understood to mean sensitive skin in an individual who has suffered from atopic dermatitis, and/or having an allergic background, that is to say having a history of allergy and/or having a family history of allergy

Thus, the absolute according to the invention, preferably lavandin absolute as described above, can be used to soothe so-called sensitive, reactive, intolerant or atopic-prone skin.

The absolute according to the invention can also be used to prevent or relieve skin discomfort resulting from exposure to an external factor such as wind, cold, heat, sun, in particular UVA/UVB rays, pollution including nanoparticles, certain chemical agents such as detergents, too frequent washing, and cosmetic treatments such as shaving, waxing, peeling, scrubbing, coloring or perming the hair.

The absolute according to the invention can also be used to make the skin more tolerant of external attacks such as the sun, the wind, the cold, pollution or certain cosmetic treatments as mentioned above.

The Applicant has shown that the absolute according to the invention is capable of inducing the proliferation of keratinocytes in vitro . Thus, the absolute according to the invention can also be used as an agent for preventing or treating the thinning of the epidermis caused by skin aging, whether this is chrono-aging or photo-aging. .

More specifically, Lavandula absolute, preferably lavandin absolute, according to the invention can be used for:

- reduce, relieve or prevent feelings of tightness, tingling and/or itching, and/or

- reduce the urge to scratch and/or

- reduce feelings of irritation and/or

- reduce, relieve or prevent sensations of skin dryness or dehydration, and/or

- treat or prevent transient redness, and/or

- reduce, relieve or prevent skin or scalp discomfort, and/or

- increase skin tolerance, and/or

- increase the thickness of the epidermis and/or prevent or treat the thinning of the epidermis caused by skin ageing.

- improve or maintain the barrier effect of the skin, and/or

- make the skin less rough and/or more supple.

The absolute according to the invention is preferably administered topically, that is to say applied to an area of the skin, including the scalp. It is preferably an area of healthy skin or scalp, that is to say not showing any wounds or skin pathologies.

The absolute according to the invention can be used in all types of subjects, in particular in subjects frequently exposed to external factors as stated above and/or in subjects with sensitive, reactive or damaged skin. atopic tendency.

The subject may be of any age and/or gender. For example, the subject may be a child, an elderly person (over 65) or a woman of any age with sensitive or reactive skin.

The absolute according to the invention is typically integrated into a composition as an active cosmetic agent. It may be a cosmetic, dermocosmetic or dermatological composition.

The absolute according to the invention generally represents from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 5% or from 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. By way of example, the absolute according to the invention can represent from 0.01% to 3.0%, for example from 0.01% to 2.0% or even from 0.01% to 1.5% or alternatively from 0.05% to 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Said composition, which is also a subject of the present invention, may comprise one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients. The cosmetically acceptable excipients can represent from 50% to 99.9999% by weight, preferably from 60% to 99.999%, more preferably from 70% to 99.995% or from 80% to 99.99% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition may also comprise one or more additional active principles with a cosmetic effect.

Typically, said cosmetic composition comprises:

from 0.0001% to 10% lavender absolute,

from 0% to 20% of one or more additional active agents, and

from 70% to 99.9999% of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients,

the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In certain embodiments, said composition comprises

from 0.001% to 5% by weight of lavender absolute,

from 0.001% to 10% of one or more additional active agents, and

from 85% to 99.998% of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients.

In other embodiments, said composition comprises:

from 0.005% to 5% by weight of lavender absolute,

from 0.001% to 10% of one or more additional active agents, and

from 85% to 99.994% of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients.

In a further embodiment, said composition comprises:

from 0.01% to 5% by weight of lavandin absolute,

from 0.01% to 10% of one or more additional active agents, and

from 85% to 99.98% of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients.

In another embodiment, said composition comprises:

from 0.01% to 2% by weight of lavender absolute,

from 0.5% to 10% of one or more additional active agents, and

from 85% to 99.49% of one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients.

The term “active ingredient with a cosmetic effect , active agent with a cosmetic effect , cosmetic agent or active ingredient with a cosmetic effect ” means a compound capable of exerting at least one cosmetic effect on the skin or its appendages. The term " cosmetic effect " means any non-therapeutic effect aimed at modifying and/or improving the appearance of the skin or mucous membranes such as the lips, at protecting them from external aggressions (sun, wind, humidity, dryness, chemicals) , or to prevent and/or correct phenomena related to their aging.

Thus, in certain embodiments, the absolute according to the invention may be present in a composition which also comprises an additional active principle with a cosmetic effect.

This additional active principle with a cosmetic effect can be chosen from the group consisting of vitamins, sun filters and screens, anti-ageing agents, lipid-replenishing agents, anti-wrinkle agents, tensing agents, anti-redness agents, antioxidants, firming agents, moisturizing agents, soothing agents, exfoliating or exfoliating agents, matting agents, sebum-regulating agents, lightening active agents, anti-dark spot active agents, slimming agents, draining agents, self-tanning active agents, tanning accelerators and combinations thereof.

Preferably, the composition may comprise an active agent chosen from an anti-wrinkle agent, an anti-redness agent, a moisturizing active agent, a soothing agent, an anti-spot agent, a filter or a sunscreen, and combinations thereof.

By way of example of moisturizing agents, mention may be made of urea, pidolic acid (PCA) and its derivatives, in particular its salts such as arginine PCA, chitosan PCA, its copper salts (Copper PCA) , magnesium (magnesium PCA), sodium (sodium PCA) or zinc, ethylhexyl PCA, calcium gluconate, hyaluronic acid and its salts and other glycosaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid, fructose, glucose, l isomaltose, lactose, trehalose, polydextrose, sucrose (Sucrose), maltitol, mannitol, sorbitol, xylitol and other carbohydrates and derivatives, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-7, PEG- 8, PEG-10, PEG-12 or PEG-14, glycerin, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, butanediol, betaine, citrulline, collagen and its derivatives, histidine, hydrolysates silk, keratin or soy, plant extracts rich in polysaccharides and/or polyphenols, for example extracts of Aloe, cornflower ( Centau rea cyanus ), and combinations thereof.

As lipid-replenishing or nourishing agents, mention may be made of vegetable oils such as olive oil, sweet almond oil, evening primrose oil, borage oil, shea butter, fatty acids, triglycerides, and ceramides.

Examples of soothing agents include allantoin, panthenol, bisabolol, extracts of aloe, marigold ( Calendula officinalis ), birch (e.g. Betula alba ), oat seedlings , licorice, or willowherb ( Epilobium angustifolium ).

By way of example of antioxidant agents, mention may be made of HMR (hydroxy methyl resorcinol), ascorbic acid and its derivatives, BHT (Butyl Hydroxy Toluene), vitamin B9, histidine hydrochloride, vitamin E and its derivatives, or an extract of willowherb ( Epilobium augustifolium ) .

As anti-redness agents, mention may be made of saponins, flavonoids, ruscogenins, esculosides, and extracts containing them, for example extracts of Ruscus , as well as certain essential oils, for example of rosemary.

Examples of anti-stain agents include extracts such as liquorice ( Glycyrrhyza glabra ), jackfruit extract ( Artocarpus heterophyllus ), Rumex extract ( R.occidentalis ), plant extracts belonging in the citrus genus, resveratrol, peptides such as oligopeptide-68, nonapeptide-1, kojic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and combinations thereof.

In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional plant extract, in addition to lavandin absolute. The plant extract can be of any type. It may be in particular an essential oil, an extract obtained by decoction, extraction or maceration using an organic solvent such as an alkane, an ester, an ether, or a glycolic solution or even by supercritical fluid extraction.

These extracts can have antioxidant, soothing, anti-aging or lightening (anti-stain) properties or be present to bring a fragrant note to the composition.

It can be in particular an extract of Anigozanthos flavidus , Swertia chirata, vanilla, cypress, jasmine, iris, gentian, or even an essential oil of ginger, everlasting flower, bay leaf , geranium, patchouli, vetiver, lemongrass, sandalwood, rose, or nutmeg.

The cosmetically acceptable excipient(s) present in the cosmetic composition may be chosen from diluents, dispersing agents, gelling agents, emollients, vectorizing agents such as polycationic polymers or phospholipids, gums, resins , solvents in particular lower alcohols including ethanol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propanediol, glycerine, sorbitol, and propylene glycol, fillers such as modified and polymerized starches, titanium dioxide, or a metal stearate, preservatives, essential oils, pearlescent agents, colorants, odor absorbers, pH regulating agents or neutralizing agents, lubricating agents, thickening agents, surfactants active agents including anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic surfactants, humectants such as glycerin or sorbitol, wetting agents nts, dispersing agents, perfumes, organic or mineral pigments such as iron oxides, oily agents such as oils or fats of vegetable origin, fats of animal origin, synthetic oils such as petroleum jelly, silicone oils, fatty alcohol esters, fluorinated oils, waxes, modified clays, bentonites, metal salts of fatty acids, silica, polyethylenes, mica, preservatives, antimicrobial agents, vehicles such as mineral, thermal or floral water, and/or other substances commonly used in formulation in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical field.

The absolute according to the invention can be incorporated into any type of composition. Preferably, it is a composition having a form suitable for topical administration, in particular suitable for application to the skin or the scalp. Said cosmetic composition may be in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic, oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) or multiple (triple: W/O/W or O /W/O), nanoemulsions, in particular O/W nanoemulsions, the size of the drops of which is less than 100 nm, of aqueous gels, of dispersions or else of a powder.

The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a lotion, a milk, a cream, an ointment, a balm, a gel, a mousse, a solution, or ointment.

More generally, the composition according to the invention can also be in the form of a cosmetic or dermocosmetic product of any type. It may be a cosmetic treatment, a perfuming composition, or a make-up or body hygiene product, for example a lotion, a milk, a serum, an aqueous or oily gel, an emulsion, a cream, a gel-cream, a skincare water, a pomade, a balm, a foundation, a spray, an eye shadow, a mascara, a stick, a lipstick, a gloss, a mousse, a deodorant, nourishing mask, shower gel, cleansing oil, soap, shampoo or conditioner, hair mask or oil, nail polish, eau de toilette or perfume.

By way of illustration, lavandin absolute can be present as a soothing agent in a repairing balm intended for sensitive or atopy-prone skin, in a lipid-replenishing cleansing oil, in an after-shave balm, or even in a hair care for sensitive scalps.

In certain embodiments, the absolute according to the invention is present in the cosmetic composition in combination with a vectorizing agent. In certain embodiments, the absolute according to the invention is formulated, using a vectorization system. The vectorization system can be chosen from the group consisting of micelles, liposomes, including liposomes, lamellar systems, lipid or polymeric vesicles, micro or nanoparticles of natural or non-natural polymers.

An additional object according to the invention is a cosmetic, non-therapeutic process for a subject comprising the administration of a cosmetically effective quantity of the Lavandula absolute according to the invention, preferably of a lavandin absolute such as defined above topically, to said subject. The absolute is typically applied to the area to be treated in the form of a composition or a cosmetic product described above.

The cosmetic process according to the invention is implemented to obtain one or more cosmetic effects as described above. It is used in particular to relieve or prevent skin discomfort, in particular feelings of irritation, tingling, tightness, itching, dry skin, or dehydrated skin or skin redness or to maintain or improve the skin barrier function. in a subject.

Skin discomfort can result from exposure to an external factor such as wind, cold, heat, sun, in particular UVA/UVB rays, pollution, in particular nanoparticles, certain chemical agents such as detergents, a too frequent washing, and cosmetic treatments such as shaving, waxing, peeling, scrubbing, coloring or perming the hair.

The subject may have sensitive, reactive or atopic-prone skin.

The absolute according to the invention is then used as a soothing agent, an agent for modulating or normalizing the inflammatory response at the level of skin cells, in particular fibroblasts of the dermis, an agent for increasing the tolerance threshold of the skin and /or agent for increasing the barrier effect of the skin,. The absolute according to the invention can be used as an agent for stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes in order to prevent or treat the thinning of the epidermis associated with skin aging, including photoaging.

In the cosmetic methods and uses according to the invention, a lavandin absolute obtained by maceration in a terpene solvent, as described above, is preferably used.

In the cosmetic methods and uses according to the invention, the dose to be administered and the frequency of administration of the absolute according to the invention vary according to the desired cosmetic effect, the area of application (skin or scalp ), characteristics of the individual, in particular gender, age and skin type.

Typically, the absolute according to the invention can be applied at least once a week, or even 2 to 3 times a week when the area to be treated is the scalp.

By way of additional example, the absolute according to the invention can be applied once or twice a day, typically in the morning and/or in the evening, when the area to be treated is an area of skin of the body, neck, face, or hands.

By way of example, to relieve skin discomfort on the face, the subject can apply a dose of 0.5 g to 2 g of cosmetic composition comprising from 0.05% to 0.5%% by weight of absolute of lavandin according to the invention on his face, morning and evening.

The treatments described above can last several weeks, even several months.

Other aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear on reading the following examples, which should be considered as illustrative and in no way as limiting.

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Preparation of lavender absolutes.

Absolute by maceration in an essential oil of organic lavandin

Fresh flowering tops of lavandin ( Lavandula angustifolia Mill x Lavandula latifolia Medik) from organic farming were macerated in a biosourced terpene solvent, also certified organic, comprising approximately 80 to 90% monoterpene compounds (approximately 2 to 10 L per kg of flowers) at a temperature of 50°C for at least 90 min. The mixture was decanted and the liquid phase and the flowers were separated. The flowers were macerated once again in the terpene solvent for 90 minutes, at 50°C. The liquid phases of the two macerations were combined and the terpene solvent was distilled under reduced pressure so as to obtain the concrete

The concrete was then taken up in ethanol. The mixture was homogenized, slightly heated then cooled so as to precipitate the waxes. The mixture was then filtered.

The filtrate was collected. The waxes were once again in ethanol. The mixture was homogenized while hot, cooled so as to precipitate the waxes and filtered. This step was repeated twice.

The collected filtrates are combined and the solvent evaporated under reduced pressure to obtain the absolute. The overall yield is generally between 9 and 16%.

Absolute obtained by extraction with hexane

A similar protocol was carried out by replacing the terpene solvent with hexane at the rate of about 2 to 10 L of solvent per kg of flowers. Three stages of maceration were carried out. The overall yield is slightly less than 2%.

Example 2: characterization of lavender absolute

- GC analysis/ FID

The extracts are characterized by analysis in gas phase chromatography coupled to the coupled to a flame ionization detector (GC/FID). The conditions of the analysis are as follows:

Agilent HP-1ms column (polar, 100% dimethylpolysiloxane, 60m x 250 µm x 0.25 µm), oven programming: 60°C for 10 min then 2°C/min up to 300°C and plateau 20 min

The table below shows the distribution of volatile compounds present in hexane absolute and “terpene solvent” absolute. For each compound, the percentage indicated corresponds to the area percentage of the peak corresponding to the chemical compound of interest compared to the total area of the peaks of the chromatogram obtained by GC/FID analysis.

Absolute terpene solvent Hexane absolute Linalyl acetate 25-40% 25-36% Linalool 10%-16% 25-35% Camphor 1.5%-4% 4%-8% Borneol 2%-4% 2%-6% Lavandulyl acetate 4%-5% 1.5%-4% Beta-caryophyllene 3%-6% 1%-4% Trans-beta farnesene >2% <2.0% Gamma cadinene >2% <1.5% Alpha bisabolol 1.5%-3.5% 0.5% - 3.0%

Example 3: Modulation of the inflammatory reaction dermal fibroblasts by the lavender absolute

The objective of this study was to determine the effect of lavandin absolute on the synthesis of interleukin 8 (IL-8) and interleukin-6 (IL-6) in normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF).

Interleukins 6 (IL-6) and 8 (IL8) are cytokines that play an important role in inflammatory reactions. Cells known to express IL-6 include fibroblasts, keratinocytes, and Langerhans cells. IL-6 and IL-8 mediate inflammatory reactions in the skin by recruiting neutrophils and other immune cells to invade inflamed tissue.

Material and method :

NHDFs are fibroblasts isolated from human dermis (30-year-old female) and commercial cells. They are maintained in a specific medium composed of DMEM (Sigma, D5523) containing 10% serum (Sigma, F7524), 1% antibiotics (penicillin / streptomycin / Sigma, P0781) and 1% L-glutamine (Sigma, G7513) at 37°C under 5% CO2 and 95% humidity.

- Effect on IL-8 production

The NHDFs were seeded at a concentration of 2.10 ⁴ cells/well in microplates in supplemented DMEM medium. After one day, the supplemented medium was removed and the cells were treated with IL-1-alpha (0.002 ng/ml), to induce the production of IL-8, in the presence/absence of the extracts to be tested or of the control positive (hydrocortisone). At the end of the incubation period, the IL-8 was quantified by a commercial ELISA test in the supernatant. A cell viability test was also performed.

The ELISA test was carried out according to the supplier's instructions, particularly with regard to the antibody dilutions to be used. Quantification of IL-8 was performed by measuring absorbance at 450 nm with a correction at 540 nm.

The results are expressed as percentage of IL-8 synthesis relative to cell viability. The data obtained and the percentage changes were subjected to the Student's test for paired data. The statistical significance value is p<0.05 (*p<0.05, **p<0.01, ***p<0.001). The absolutes were tested at a concentration of 10 ^-3 % and 10 ^-4 % by weight relative to the total weight of the medium.

Each condition was tested 9 times.

- Effect on IL6 production

A similar protocol was carried out for the determination of IL6 in a series of separate experiments. IL-6 was quantified by a commercial ELISA test in the supernatant. A cell viability test was also performed.

The ELISA test was carried out according to the supplier's instructions, particularly with regard to the antibody dilutions to be used. The quantification of IL-6 was carried out by measuring the absorbance at 450 nm with a correction at 540 nm. The data obtained and the percentage changes were subjected to the Student's test for paired data. The statistical significance value is p<0.05 (*p<0.05, **p<0.01, ***p<0.001). The absolutes were tested at a concentration of 10 ^-3 % and 10 ^-4 % by weight relative to the total weight of the medium.

Each condition was tested 9 times.

- Results

The results are shown below

% IL-8 production relative to cell viability % IL-6 production relative to cell viability Positive control
(activation with IL1) 100 100 Negative control
(no activation with IL1) 2 (***) 12 (***) Hydrocortisone (0.025 mcgml) 51 (***) 34 (***) Absolute terpene solvent (10 ^-4 %) 78 (**) 64 (***) Absolute terpene solvent (10 ^-3 %) 81 (*) 53 (***) Absolute hexane (10 ^-4 %) 92%
(non-significant decrease) 70 (*) Absolute hexane (10 ^-3 %) 96%
(non-significant decrease) 68 (*)

Lavandin absolutes significantly inhibit the production of IL6 in dermal fibroblasts induced by IL-1. An analogous effect is on the production of IL-8 for the terpene solvent lavandin absolute. This effect was not obtained for hexane absolute.

Notably, the terpene solvent absolute exhibits a significantly higher capacity to modulate the inflammatory response than that observed for hexane absolute.

Lavandin absolutes, in particular the terpene solvent absolute, are therefore capable of modulating and normalizing the inflammatory response of human dermal fibroblasts.

Example 4: effect of lavandin absolute obtained by maceration in a solvent terpene on keratinocyte proliferation

The keratinocytes which are the main cells of the epidermis will form the stratum corneum by cell differentiation mechanisms. This stratum corneum prevents water loss and protects against environmental aggressions.

During aging, the thickness of the epidermis decreases, the dermo-epidermal junction flattens leading to an increase in differentiation and a decrease in the proliferation of keratinocytes.

Stimulation of keratinocyte proliferation is an important mechanism for combating skin aging, in particular against the thinning of the epidermis associated with skin aging and which is partly responsible for the reduction in the barrier effect of the skin.

The aim of this trial was to assess whether lavandin absolute obtained by maceration in a terpene solvent was capable of inducing keratinocyte proliferation.

The keratinocytes used in this study were isolated from human dermis taken from two women aged 30 and 39 and were cultured in a specific medium at 37°C, under 5% CO2 and 95% humidity. .

The test was carried out using the “PicoGreen” method.

10,000 cells per well were inoculated in microplates in culture medium for 24 hours. Lavandin absolute or recovery solvent (white) was then added to the medium. Cells were incubated for an additional 48 hours. At the end of the incubation period, lysis buffer was added to each well and incubated for 2 hours. The dsDNA in solution was then measured using the Quant-iT PicoGreen dsDNA kit. The fluorescence of each well is then measured by a plate reader (Excitation 480nm, Emission 520nm) according to the supplier's instructions for the dilutions of the reagents. The results are indicated in percentage of proliferation activation.

Lavandin absolute was tested at a concentration of 10 ^-5 % by weight.

- Results

Lavandin absolute obtained by maceration in a terpene solvent induces a significant increase in the proliferation of keratinocytes by 17% (*p<0.05).

E example 5 : Examples of cosmetic compositions comprising A e lavender absolute

Soothing cream

Chemical name % in weight Water QSP100 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.10 Phenoxyethanol 0.8 Copolymers of sodium acrylate, lecithin 1.75 dicaprylyl carbonate 3.00 Sweet almond oil 5.00 Tocopherol and sunflower oil 0.20 Pentylene glycol 1.5 Absolute of flowering tops by Lavandin obtained by maceration in a organic terpene solvent 0.15

After Sun Soothing Body Spray

Chemical name % in weight Deionized water QSP100 Sodium phytate and water and alcohol 0.10 Glycerin 4.00 Lysolecithin & Sclerotium Gum & Xanthan Gum & Pullulan 0.60 Glyceryl Citrate Stearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate and Hydrogenated Lecithin 2.70 Sunflower oil 8.00 Tocopherol and sunflower oil 0.10 Phenoxyethanol Caprylyl Glycol 1.00 Absolute of Lavandin flowering tops obtained by maceration in a organic terpene solvent 0.2

Claims (17)

Cosmetic use of an absolute obtained by maceration of a plant material from a species of Lavandula in a terpene solvent as a soothing agent for healthy skin. Cosmetic use according to claim 1, wherein the terpene solvent comprises at least 85%, preferably at least 90% by weight of terpene compounds. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the absolute is a lavender absolute. Cosmetic use according to Claim 3, in which the lavandin absolute comprises at least 8.0% of sesquiterpene compounds, the percentage corresponding to the percentage of area represented by the peaks of the sesquiterpene compounds relative to the total area of the peaks of the chromatogram obtained by GC/FID analysis of the absolute. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the absolute can be obtained by a process comprising:
- a step comprising the maceration of a plant material of Lavandula , preferably flowering tops, in a terpene solvent, the recovery of the liquid phase after maceration and the elimination of the terpene solvent from this liquid phase so as to obtain a concrete , And
- a stage of elimination of the waxes present in the concrete so as to obtain an absolute. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the absolute is used as an agent for stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes for the purpose of preventing or treating the thinning of the epidermis associated with skin ageing. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the absolute is used to reduce skin or scalp discomfort. Cosmetic use according to Claim 7, in which the absolute is used:
- to reduce, relieve or prevent feelings of tightness and/or tingling in the skin, and/or
- to reduce, relieve or prevent feelings of skin dryness or dehydration, and/or
- to treat or prevent transient redness, and/or
- to make the skin less rough and/or more supple. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the absolute is present as active agent in a topical composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight Cosmetic use according to Claim 9, in which the topical composition comprises at least one additional cosmetic agent, preferably chosen from the group consisting of vitamins, filters and sunscreens, anti-aging or anti-wrinkle agents, antioxidants, lifting agents, firming agents, anti-dark spot agents, anti-redness agents, slimming agents, draining agents, moisturizing agents, soothing agents, gumming or exfoliating agents, mattifying agents, sebum-regulating agents, lightening active agents, self-tanning active agents, tanning accelerators and combinations thereof. Cosmetic use according to any one of Claims 9 to 10, in which the topical composition is chosen from the group consisting of aqueous solutions, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil emulsions (W/O) or multiple (triple: W/O/W or O/W/O), nanoemulsions, in particular O/W nanoemulsions, the size of the drops of which is less than 100 nm, aqueous gels, or dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using spherules, suspensions, preferably in aqueous or hydroalcoholic media, suspensions of liposomes, powders, lotions, milks, creams, ointments, gels, mousses, and ointments. Cosmetic use according to Claim 11, in which the composition is a cosmetic product, a make-up product, a perfuming product or a body hygiene product, for example a lotion, a milk, a serum, an aqueous or oily gel, an emulsion , a cream, in particular a day cream or a night cream, a cream-gel, a care water, an ointment, a balm, a foundation, a spray, an eye shadow, a mascara, a stick, a lipstick, a gloss, a lip balm, a mousse, in particular a shaving foam, a deodorant, an aftershave, a shampoo, a conditioner, a varnish for the nails, a care oil, an oil cleansing, a nourishing mask, a shower gel, an eau de toilette or a perfume. Cosmetic or dermocosmetic composition comprising an absolute as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 5 as active cosmetic agent and at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient, said composition being intended for sensitive, reactive or prone skin. atopic. Absolute obtained by maceration of a plant material from a species of Lavandula in a terpene solvent for its use as a soothing agent for sensitive, reactive or atopic-prone skin. Absolute obtained by maceration of a plant material derived from a species of Lavandula for its use according to Claim 14, the said absolute being as defined in one of Claims 2 to 5. A process for preparing an absolute from Lavandula plant material having skin-soothing properties, said process comprising:
a step of preparing a concrete in which the Lavandula plant material is macerated in a terpene solvent, the liquid phase is recovered after maceration and the terpene solvent is removed from this liquid phase so as to obtain a concrete, and
a stage of elimination of the waxes present in the concrete so as to obtain an absolute. A method according to claim 16 comprising one or more of the following features:
- Lavandula plant material includes, or consists of, flowering tops, and/or
- The species of Lavandula is lavandin, and/or
- The terpene solvent comprises at least 85%, preferably at least 90% or even at least 95% by weight of terpene compounds, and/or
- At least 80% of the terpene compounds present in the solvent are monoterpenes or monoterpenoids, and/or
- The terpene solvent is a natural solvent preferably obtained by extraction from a plant material, and/or
- The maceration step is carried out at a temperature between 40°C and 60°C for at least 90 min, and/or
- The terpene solvent is removed, at least partially, by distillation under reduced pressure at the end of step a), and/or
- In step b), the waxes are removed by cold precipitation in an alcohol or a hydroalcoholic solution titrated to at least 90% alcohol.