WO2023180982A1 - Cosmetic use of a lavandin extract as a protective or anti-fatigue cosmetic agent - Google Patents
Cosmetic use of a lavandin extract as a protective or anti-fatigue cosmetic agent Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2023180982A1 WO2023180982A1 PCT/IB2023/052869 IB2023052869W WO2023180982A1 WO 2023180982 A1 WO2023180982 A1 WO 2023180982A1 IB 2023052869 W IB2023052869 W IB 2023052869W WO 2023180982 A1 WO2023180982 A1 WO 2023180982A1
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- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- cosmetic
- extract
- skin
- lavandin
- fatigue
- Prior art date
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/99—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from microorganisms other than algae or fungi, e.g. protozoa or bacteria
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
Definitions
- the present invention relates to the cosmetic field, in particular to cosmetic agents for combating the effects of fatigue on the skin.
- the skin is the first barrier protecting the body from external aggressions.
- This organ is made up of several layers of tissue.
- the epidermis is made up of several cellular layers of keratinocytes.
- basal layer containing, in particular, skin stem cells
- Stratum spinosum made up of several layers of polygonal cells
- Stratum granulosum comprising one to three layers of flattened cells containing cytoplasmic inclusions, the keratohyalin grains
- stratum corneum, Stratum corneum which is composed of anucleated and keratin-rich cells called comeocytes which correspond to the terminal stage of differentiation of keratinocytes.
- the outermost cells of the stratum corneum are continually shed and replaced by cells from a lower layer, in a process called desquamation.
- Cellular regeneration of the stratum corneum is based on a process of cellular maturation in which the cells of the basal layer of the epidermis differentiate and gradually migrate through the different strata of the epidermis until arriving at the stratum corneum below. the form of comeocytes.
- the invention relates to the cosmetic use of an extract, preferably fat-soluble, of lavandin obtained by maceration of lavandin plant material in a terpene solvent, as a protective cosmetic agent or anti-fatigue cosmetic agent for healthy skin. .
- the fat-soluble extract of lavandin can also be used as a cosmetic agent for resynchronizing or preventing non-pathological alteration of the circadian rhythm of healthy skin, and/or as a cosmetic agent for promote or promote skin protection mechanisms during the sleep phase in healthy skin.
- fatigue in the individual can be caused by one or more factors chosen from lack of sleep, jet lag, poor or unbalanced diet, alcohol consumption, lack or excess of physical activity, sedentary lifestyle, overwork, intense or unsuitable activity at work, activity at night or at odd times, exposure to screens, and stress.
- Lavandin extract can be used to treat or prevent one or more signs of skin fatigue chosen from a loss of radiance of the skin, a dull complexion, a dull complexion, a loss of uniformity of the complexion, facial features. tight face, dark circles around the eyes, bags on the eye level, swollen eyelids, loss of elasticity, loss of density, loss of firmness, and combinations thereof.
- the lavandin extract can be used to treat or prevent one or more signs of skin fatigue chosen from loss of skin radiance, dull complexion, dull complexion, loss of uniformity of complexion, tight facial features, dark circles around the eyes, bags around the eyes, swollen eyelids, and their combinations.
- the extract can also be used as a cosmetic agent to promote or improve skin protection against environmental stress.
- the terpene solvent used in the process may comprise at least 85%, preferably at least 90% by weight of terpene compounds.
- the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for preventing or treating signs of skin fatigue in a tired individual, said process comprising the application of a cosmetically effective quantity of an extract as defined above to the skin.
- lavandin extract is present in a cosmetic composition as defined in the present application.
- the cosmetic process is used to prevent, treat or reduce dark circles and the extract is applied to the eye area.
- the cosmetic process can be implemented in an individual presenting fatigue, said fatigue not being caused or associated with a pathological condition.
- the invention relates to a cosmetic ingredient comprising a lavandin extract as defined in the present application, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.
- the cosmetic ingredient may comprise, or consist of, 0.1% to 1.5% by weight of said lavandin extract in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle chosen from pentylene glycol or triheptanoin.
- the lavender extract is present in the cosmetic ingredient as an anti-fatigue cosmetic agent to increase skin production of melatonin in healthy skin and/or to resynchronize or prevent non-pathological alteration of the circadian rhythm of the skin.
- healthy skin and/or as a cosmetic agent to promote or favor skin protection mechanisms during the sleep phase in healthy skin.
- the subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition
- a cosmetic composition comprising lavandin extract as defined in the present application, or a cosmetic ingredient as defined in the present application, in combination with at least acceptable excipient on the plan.
- the cosmetic composition can be chosen from the group consisting of aqueous solutions, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) or multiple emulsions (triple: W/O/ W or O/W/O), nanoemulsions, in particular O/W nanoemulsions, aqueous gels, or dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using spherules, suspensions, preferably in media aqueous or hydroalcoholic, suspensions of liposomes, powders, lotions, milks, creams, ointments, gels, foams, and ointments.
- the cosmetic composition can be a treatment for use in the treatment or prevention of skin fatigue, for example a serum, a cream, a mask or a balm, preferably at night.
- the subject of the invention is the use of a lavandin extract or a cosmetic ingredient as defined in the present application in the manufacture of an anti-fatigue cosmetic composition to increase the skin's production of melatonin in healthy skin and/or to resynchronize or prevent non-pathological alteration of the circadian rhythm of healthy skin, and/or to promote or favor skin protection mechanisms during the sleep phase in the skin healthy.
- Figure 1 represents the protective effect of the lavandin extract according to the invention with respect to UV stress on the expression of different genes involved in circadian rhythmicity in an ex-vivo study carried out on explants. of skin.
- Figure 4 shows the results of evaluation of dark circles at T12h, D7 and D28 in relative percentage compared to DO for the group treated with the “active” cream (Extract according to the invention) and the group treated with the placebo cream.
- Melatonin is a hormone produced by the pineal gland (also called the epiphysis). Melatonin secretion is inhibited in the presence of light and stimulated when it is dark. Through melatonin, the pineal gland informs the brain about the relative durations of the hours of darkness and light over a 24-hour period (daily cycle), but also throughout the year (seasonal cycle). Melatonin is called the “sleep hormone” and plays a central role in the regulation of chronobiological rhythms. This hormone is produced in different tissues.
- the process begins with Tryptophan which is converted into serotonin via different enzymes to finally transform the latter into melatonin by the successive action of Arylalkylamine N-acetyltransferase and hydroxyindole-O-methyltransferase.
- Melatonin can act on the skin via 2 different pathways: receptor-independent and receptor-dependent.
- Melatonin is capable of playing a role as a cellular antioxidant, in particular by directly trapping free radicals, but also indirectly by increasing the activity of antioxidant enzymes.
- This molecule which has the potential to cross cell membranes, also acts to maintain and protect mitochondrial activity.
- Melatonin also has beneficial effects on the skin by activating melatonin receptors.
- Melatonin receptors are G protein-coupled receptors that exist in two subtypes in humans, namely MT1 and MT2. They are expressed in the brain but also at the peripheral level, particularly in the skin.
- the skin As a peripheral tissue located at the interface between the internal and external environments, the skin performs critical functions for the preservation of the body's homeostasis, in coordination with environmental changes. Some of these functions undergo daily variations, such as temperature or water loss, suggesting the presence of their own circadian rhythm.
- this type of extract has other cosmetic activities, very different from those described in application FR 3 110 422.
- the Applicant has thus shown that this type of extract was capable of increasing significantly the expression of melatonin by keratinocytes in vitro.
- Lavandin extract was capable of preventing the increase in the expression of clock genes such as Cry2 and Per2 in skin explants induced after UV irradiation. The same effect was observed for the Neatl and Neatl-2 genes which play a determining role in the regulation of these clock genes.
- the lavandin extract according to the invention is thus capable of resynchronizing or preventing alteration of the circadian rhythm of the skin, for example induced by exposure to environmental stress such as excessive exposure to UV.
- the Applicant has also shown that the extract according to the invention was capable of significantly reducing dark circles around the eyes in individuals with disturbed sleep cycles.
- the invention relates to the cosmetic uses of lavandin extracts obtained by extraction using a terpene solvent.
- the extract according to the invention may in particular be a lavandin absolute.
- the lavandin extract according to the invention is preferably fat-soluble.
- Lavandula means any plant species belonging to the genus Lavandula. Lavandula species include lavender species as well as hybrids thereof, including lavandin.
- lavender hybrids that is to say hybrids of plants belonging to the Lavandula genus, and in particular lavender hybrids.
- Lavender species include, but are not limited to, Lavandula angustifolia Mill, (also known as of true lavender), Lavandula latifolia Medik. (also known as spike lavender), and Lavandula stoechas L. (also known as butterfly lavender).
- lavender hybrids correspond to hybrids resulting from the crossing of true lavender and aspic. These hybrids are known as Lavandula angustifolia Mill, x Lavandula latifolia Medik., Lavandula hybrida, and Lavandula x intermedia.
- lavandin There are several varieties of lavandin including the Abrialis, Grosso, Super and Sumian varieties.
- the extract used according to the invention can in particular be the absolute as described in application FR No. 20 05014, and/or can be obtained by the process as described in said application.
- the extract according to the invention can be obtained from one or more aerial parts of a lavandin plant. It may be an extract obtained from the stems, flowers and/or flowering tops of a lavandin plant. In certain embodiments, the lavandin plant can be derived from organic farming.
- the extract is obtained from flowering tops, preferably fresh, of lavandin.
- the lavandin extract according to the invention is cosmetically acceptable, that is to say it is not toxic when used at usual concentrations in cosmetic products.
- the extract according to the invention is typically an absolute.
- the term “absolute” means any fat-soluble extract of plant material that can be obtained by a process comprising: a) a step of extracting the plant material with a volatile solvent so as to obtain a concrete containing both odorous molecules and waxes, and b) a step of eliminating the waxes present in the concrete so as to obtain the absolute.
- step a) is preferably carried out by maceration of the plant material from a lavandin plant in a terpene solvent.
- terpene solvent or solvent rich in terpene compounds means a solvent having a content of at least 80%, preferably at least 85%, 90%, 95%, 98%, 99% or even 100% in weight of terpene derivatives.
- terpene solvent which can be at least partially or completely eliminated from the maceration medium by distillation under reduced pressure at a temperature below 150°C.
- the terpene solvent is preferably liquid at room temperature (for example at 20-25°C).
- Terpene derivatives we mean terpenes and their derivatives, in particular terpenoid compounds.
- Terpenes correspond to hydrocarbons resulting from the combination of several isoprene units. They are divided into several classes of compounds depending on the number of isoprene units they contain. Terpenes include monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, diterpenes and triterpenes. Terpenes can be cyclic or acyclic.
- Terpenoids are derivatives of terpenes comprising additional functional groups, including in particular an oxygen (for example an ester, alcohol, ketone or even etheroxide function) and/or less alkyl groups (for example one less methyl).
- Terpenoids include, but are not limited to, terpene alcohols (or monoterpenols), terpene ketones and aldehydes, terpene ethers, and terpene esters. Just like terpenes, terpenoids are divided into several classes of compounds depending on the number of isoprene units they contain. Terpenoids can be cyclic or acyclic.
- At least 60% by weight of the terpene compounds present in the terpene solvent are chosen from the group consisting of monoterpenes, monoterpenoids and mixtures thereof.
- the monoterpenes and monoterpenoids can represent at least 80%, preferably at least 85% or even 90%, 95% or 98% by weight of the terpene compounds present in the terpene solvent.
- the monoterpenoid compounds present in the solvent are chosen from monoterpenols and monoterpenol acetates.
- terpene alcohols such as linalool, eucaplyptol, menthol, nerol, geraniol, citronellol, borneol, terpineols and acetate esters thereof, or also terpene ketones and aldehydes such as citral, geranial, citronellal, camphor, and carvone.
- the terpene solvent may consist of a mixture of terpene compounds, or be essentially composed (i.e. at least 95%, 96%, 98%, 99% or 100%) of a single terpene compound.
- it is a solvent comprising a mixture of terpene compounds, in which the monoterpenes and monoterpenoids represent at least 80% by weight, of preferably at least 90% or even at least 95% by weight of the total terpene compounds present in the solvent.
- the terpene solvent may be a synthetic solvent, that is to say a solvent in which at least one of the terpene compounds it comprises has been prepared by chemical synthesis.
- the terpene solvent is a natural solvent, that is to say a solvent prepared from a plant, animal or microbial material. In other words, it is a biosourced solvent.
- the terpene solvent is prepared by a process for extracting a natural material, preferably a plant material known to contain terpene compounds, in particular monoterpene compounds. It may be a raw material coming from a plant belonging to the Lamiaceae family, for example mint, sage, thyme, oregano, lavender, lavandin, rosemary, to the Pinaceae family. notably pines (genus Pinus), or the Rutaceae family, particularly species of the Citrus genus, for example lemon or orange trees.
- the starting plant material which is used to prepare the terpene solvent, may consist of bark, berries, flowers, leaves, zest, resins in particular resinous oleoresins, rhizomes, roots, wood , seeds, needles, or even cell cultures, seedlings, and their combinations.
- it may be a terpene solvent prepared by extraction of a pine oleoresin, by extraction of bark or zest of citrus fruits or even by extraction of flowers and/or leaves of a plant of the Lamiaceae family.
- the terpene solvent can be prepared using any extraction process making it possible to recover the volatile terpene compounds of interest, in particular monoterpenes and monoterpenoids.
- the extraction process may comprise one or more fractionation steps such as one or more solid-liquid extraction steps, using a volatile organic solvent, a subcritical or supercritical fluid extraction step, in particular by supercritical CO2, a mechanical extraction step, in particular by cold expression, one or more distillation steps, for example hydrodistillation, distillation by steam distillation, fractional distillation or molecular distillation and combinations of those -this.
- Several extraction and/or purification techniques can be combined to obtain a terpene solvent enriched in volatile monoterpene compounds.
- the terpene solvent is a certified organic natural solvent, that is to say it has been prepared by an extraction process from a raw material originating and certified from organic farming.
- Step a) can be carried out in the following manner:
- the plant material preferably the flowering tops of lavandin, is covered with a terpene solvent as defined above.
- the plant material is left to macerate at a temperature between 40°C and 60°C at least for 90 min, generally for 60 to 120 min.
- a sufficient volume of solvent is used to cover the plant material.
- the volume of solvent to use is generally 1 to 10 liters per kg of plant material per maceration cycle and can vary depending on the starting plant material and the extractor used. After maceration, the liquid phase is recovered.
- the maceration step can be repeated, typically 1 to 5 times, e.g. 1, 2 or 3 times.
- the plant material is recovered and returned to macerate in fresh or recycled solvent.
- the liquid phase is recovered and combined with the liquid phase recovered at the end of the first maceration.
- a terpene solvent of the same composition is preferably used in the different maceration stages.
- the maceration time may be shorter in the additional maceration step(s).
- the terpene solvent is removed from the liquid phase by distillation under reduced pressure and is generally recycled for further extraction.
- the distillation residue constitutes the concrete which is in a pasty or solid form rich in odorous molecules and waxes.
- Step b) aims to eliminate the waxes present in the concrete in order to obtain the absolute, that is to say the desired extract.
- Different strategies can be used to eliminate waxes, i.e. obtaining the absolute on one side and the waxes on the other.
- the absolute can be recovered by carrying out a fractional extraction of the concrete by supercritical CO2: the constituent molecules of the absolute are entrained by the supercritical fluid and selectively recovered by modulating the temperature and pressure of the supercritical fluid.
- An alternative solution is to eliminate waxes by taking advantage of their difference in hot and cold solubility in alcohol.
- the concrete is taken up in an alcohol or a hydroalcoholic solution titrated to at least 90% alcohol.
- the solution obtained is homogenized, if necessary hot (for example at a temperature below 60°C) then cooled so as to precipitate the waxes. Waxes can be removed by filtration.
- the absolute is then obtained from the filtrate collected by eliminating the alcohol, for example by concentration under vacuum.
- step b part of the odorant molecules of interest may be trapped in the precipitated waxes, and therefore lost.
- an additional step can be carried out aimed at recovering the odorous molecules trapped in the precipitated waxes.
- the precipitated waxes are taken up in alcohol or in the hydroalcoholic solution, homogenized hot, precipitated cold and filtered. The filtrate obtained is combined with the filtrate from step b). This step can be repeated until satisfactory wax exhaustion is obtained.
- the alcohol used in step b) and in the possible wax exhaustion step can be any type of lower C2-C5 alcohol, in particular ethanol or an alcoholic solution titrated at 90% alcohol.
- a biosourced ethanol i.e. a bioethanol
- a hydroalcoholic solution comprising at least 90% by volume of biosourced ethanol is used in step b).
- Steps a) and/or b) can be repeated as necessary, for example to increase yield.
- the process does not include additional purification steps in steps a) and b).
- the process may also include a step of formulating the extract, for example by adding one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, in particular a cosmetically acceptable vehicle or support.
- the extract used according to the invention can be diluted in a suitable organic or vegetable solvent, for example triethyl citrate, glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, triheptanoin, or a vegetable oil from an oleaginous plant.
- a suitable organic or vegetable solvent for example triethyl citrate, glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, triheptanoin, or a vegetable oil from an oleaginous plant.
- encapsulated in a vectorization system for example liposomes or even adsorbed on a solid vehicle.
- the sign(s) of skin fatigue may for example be a loss of radiance of the skin, a dull complexion, a blurred complexion, a loss of uniformity of the complexion, tight facial features, dark circles around the eyes, bags around the eyes, puffy eyelids, and combinations of these.
- the lavandin extract is incorporated as a cosmetic active agent in a cosmetic composition, preferably a cream, a balm, a mask, a serum or a lotion, as described below.
- a cosmetic composition preferably a cream, a balm, a mask, a serum or a lotion, as described below.
- concentration of said extract in such a cosmetic composition is advantageously low, so that it is not perceptible by smell. Typically, this concentration is 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight, preferably 0.001% to 0.01% by weight of said absolute.
- agents are, among others, anti-wrinkle agents, anti-aging agents, antioxidant agents, moisturizing agents, soothing agents, anti-redness agents, decongestant agents, scrubbing or exfoliating agents, mattifying agents, sebum-regulating agents, lightening active ingredients, anti-dark spot active ingredients, anti-dark circles or anti-puffiness agents, anti-stress agents, anti-fatigue agents, anti-pollution active ingredients, tightening agents, filters and sunscreens, and their combinations.
- moisturizing agents As an example of moisturizing agents, mention may be made of urea, pidolic acid (PC A) and its derivatives, in particular its salts such as arginine PCA, chitosan PCA, its copper salts (Copper PCA ), magnesium (magnesium PCA), sodium (sodium PCA) or zinc, ethylhexyl PCA, calcium gluconate, hyaluronic acid and its salts and other glycosaminoglycans, frucose, glucose, isomaltose, lactose, trehalose, polydextrose, sucrose (Sucrose), maltitol, mannitol, sorbitol, xylitol and other carbohydrates and derivatives, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG -10, PEG-12 or PEG-14, glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, betaine, citrulline, collagen and its
- Lilium candidum mallow (e.g. Malva sylvestris), lemon balm (e.g. Melissa officinalis), skullcap (e.g. Scutellaria baicalensis), mimosa (e.g. Mimosa tenuiflora), cinquefoil (e.g. Potentilla erecta), an oligosaccharide extract or an oligosaccharide, e.g. flax, peptides such as palmitoyl tripeptide-8, polysaccharide extracts, in particular exopolysaccharide extracts from the fermentation medium of Alter omonas and combinations thereof.
- antioxidant agents we can cite HMR (hydroxy methyl resorcinol), ascorbic acid and its derivatives, vitamin B9, histidine hydrochloride, or an extract of willow herb (Epilobium augustifolium).
- HMR hydroxy methyl resorcinol
- ascorbic acid and its derivatives vitamin B9
- histidine hydrochloride or an extract of willow herb (Epilobium augustifolium).
- the active ingredients with an antioxidant and vitamin-type effect are generally used in a mass percentage of at least 1% relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
- anti-stain agents we can cite extracts such as licorice (Glycyrrhyza glabra), jackfruit extract (Artocarpus heterophyllus), Rumex extract (R.occidentalis), plant extracts belonging to to the citrus genus, resveratrol, peptides such as oligopeptide-68, nonapeptide-1, kojic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and combinations thereof.
- extracts such as licorice (Glycyrrhyza glabra), jackfruit extract (Artocarpus heterophyllus), Rumex extract (R.occidentalis), plant extracts belonging to to the citrus genus, resveratrol, peptides such as oligopeptide-68, nonapeptide-1, kojic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and combinations thereof.
- said cosmetic composition comprises:
- the lavandin extract as described in the present application, the precursor composition, or the cosmetic ingredient comprising it, can be incorporated into any type of cosmetic composition.
- it is a cosmetic composition having a form suitable for topical administration, in particular suitable for application to the skin.
- the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be of any type.
- the cosmetic composition is chosen from the group consisting of aqueous solutions, hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) or multiple (triple) emulsions.
- nanoemulsions in particular O/W nanoemulsions, whose drop size is typically less than 100 nm
- aqueous gels or dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using spherules, suspensions, preferably in aqueous or hydroalcoholic media, suspensions of liposomes, powders, lotions, milks, creams, ointments, gels, foams, balms, and ointments.
- the cosmetic composition is a cream, a balm, a mask, a serum or a lotion.
- the cosmetic composition is a serum, a cream, a mask or a balm, preferably at night.
- An additional object of the present invention is a cosmetic method for preventing or treating the signs of skin fatigue in an individual, said method comprising the application of a cosmetically effective quantity of lavandin extract as described above, or a cosmetic composition as described above on the skin.
- the method according to the invention can make it possible to obtain any of the following effects, in an individual exposed to fatigue:
- the preferred cosmetic effects sought are one or more effects a)-g) and i)-m)
- Example 1 Preparation of a lavandin extract.
- Fresh flowering tops of lavandin (Lavandula angustifolia Mill x Lavandula latifolia Medik) from organic farming were macerated in a biosourced terpene solvent, also certified organic, comprising approximately 80 to 90% monoterpene compounds (approximately 2 to 10 L per kg of flowers) at a temperature of 50°C for at least 90 min.
- the mixture was decanted and the liquid phase and flowers were separated.
- the flowers were re-macerated once in the terpene solvent for 90 minutes, at 50°C.
- the liquid phases of the two macerations were combined and the terpene solvent was distilled under reduced pressure so as to obtain the concrete
- the concrete was then taken up in ethanol.
- the mixture was homogenized, slightly heated then cooled so as to precipitate the waxes.
- the mixture was then filtered.
- the filtrate was recovered.
- the waxes were taken up in ethanol.
- the mixture was homogenized while hot, cooled so as to precipitate the waxes and filtered. This step was repeated twice.
- the collected filtrates are combined and the solvent evaporated under reduced pressure to obtain the extract (also called absolute).
- the overall return is generally between 9 and 16%.
- GC/FID analyzes were performed with an Agilent 6890 instrument (Agilent Technologies) equipped with a flame ionization detector (FID), an automatic liquid sampler and an HP-1MS capillary column (100% dimethylpolysiloxane , 60 m x 0.15 mm i.d., film thickness 0.25 pm; Agilent Technologies).
- the oven temperature was maintained at 60°C for 10 min, then programmed from 60 to 300°C with 2°C/min, and finally 300°C for 10 min.
- the injector and detector temperatures were 250°C and 300°C, respectively; H2 (1.0 ml/min) as carrier gas; injection in split mode (1:50); volume injected 0.1 ml.
- the FID O2, H2, and makeup gas flow rates were 350, 35, and 20 mL/min, respectively.
- the table below shows the distribution of volatile compounds present in the lavandin extract according to the invention. For each compound, the percentage indicated corresponds to the percentage of peak area corresponding to the chemical compound of interest relative to the total peak area of the chromatogram obtained by GC/FID analysis.
- Table 1 Composition of a lavandin extract according to the invention (GC/FID analysis)
- Example 3 Increased melatonin production in keratinocytes
- the aim of this study was to detect the presence of melatonin in a cell culture of keratinocytes and to demonstrate that lavandin extract can increase the synthesis of the latter.
- the keratinocytes were seeded in culture medium flasks and incubated for 5 days with renewal of the culture medium after 4 days.
- the culture supernatants were collected. The cells were detached and after a centrifugation step, the cell pellets were washed with phosphate-buffered saline (PB S) and frozen to dryness at ⁇ 80 °C.
- PB S phosphate-buffered saline
- the mixture was stirred for 10 min at room temperature, and centrifuged for 5 min at 4500 rpm.
- the lower organic phase was recovered and pooled with the previous organic phase. Dry evaporation under nitrogen at 40°C was then carried out.
- the residue was suspended in 500 ⁇ L of methanol to dissolve it and then evaporated to dryness under nitrogen at 40°C.
- the residue was then suspended in 50 ⁇ L of methanol for analysis.
- the analytical method used was liquid chromatography coupled with MS/MS detection.
- Cq (control) the quantitative threshold calculated by the CFX Maestro in “regression” mode for the control condition.
- Cq (treated) the quantitative threshold calculated by the CFX Maestro in “regression” mode for the treated condition.
- gene target gene
- “Active” cream generic unscented cream for the face comprising 1% of a precursor composition comprising 0.5% by weight of the extract of Example 1, in pentylene glycol (A-Leen® 5, Minasolve ),
- Example 6 Cosmetic products incorporating the extract used according to the invention
- Night cream comprising 1% of a precursor composition comprising 0.5% by weight of the extract according to the invention prepared according to Example 1 in pentylene glycol
- Table 4 Composition of the night cream B) Anti-fatigue cream comprising 1% a precursor composition comprising 0.5% by weight of the extract according to the invention prepared according to Example 1 in triheptanoin
- the volunteers enrolled were people working shift schedules, young adults who were very socially active and used to going out and staying up late or traveling (jet-lag), or young mothers. The volunteers therefore had disturbed sleep cycles but were not treated for sleep disorders.
- the 2 creams were tested:
- - “active” cream generic unscented cream for the face comprising 1% of a precursor composition comprising 0.5% by weight of the extract of Example 1, in Triheptanoine (cream from Table 5 anti-fatigue below -Before), - “Placebo” cream: same generic unscented cream for the face but comprising 1% Triheptanoine alone (i.e. without extract).
- the assessment of dark circles was carried out using original images taken with the Bio blue light scanner for each volunteer. The images were processed by specific software, and the rings were measured using the individual typology angle (ITA°) at different times: after 12 hours, after 7 days and after 28 days.
- ITA° typology angle
- Figure 4 shows a rapid, progressive and significant lightening of dark circles under the eyes in subjects treated with active cream compared to subjects treated with Placebo cream.
- Fat-soluble extract of lavandin according to the invention makes it possible to significantly reduce dark circles in subjects with disturbed sleep cycles.
- a lavandin extract obtained by maceration of lavandin plant material in a terpene solvent as a protective cosmetic agent or anti-fatigue cosmetic agent for healthy skin.
- the lavandin extract comprises at least 8.0% of sesquiterpene compounds, the percentage corresponding to the percentage of area represented by the peaks of the compounds sesquiterpenes relative to the total area of the peaks of the chromatogram obtained by GC/FID analysis of the absolute.
- sesquiterpene compounds chosen from beta-caryophyllene, trans beta-farnesene, gamma cadinene and alpha-bisabolol.
- terpene solvent comprises at least 85%, preferably at least 90% by weight of terpene compounds.
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Abstract
Description
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FR2202653A FR3133755A1 (en) | 2022-03-24 | 2022-03-24 | Cosmetic use of lavandin extract as a protective or anti-fatigue cosmetic agent |
FR2202653 | 2022-03-24 |
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Citations (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2005014A1 (en) | 1968-03-29 | 1969-12-05 | Union Tank Car Co | |
WO2007057549A2 (en) * | 2005-11-10 | 2007-05-24 | Laboratoire Limotech | Plant extract obtained by an extraction method by means of solvents of plant origin |
WO2021156104A1 (en) * | 2020-02-04 | 2021-08-12 | ISP Investments LLC. | Method for obtaining an aqueous extract of lavender, compositions comprising such an extract and their cosmetic uses |
FR3110422A1 (en) | 2020-05-19 | 2021-11-26 | International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. | Lavandula absolute for its cosmetic use |
FR3110417A1 (en) * | 2020-05-19 | 2021-11-26 | International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. | Absolute for their cosmetic use |
-
2022
- 2022-03-24 FR FR2202653A patent/FR3133755A1/en active Pending
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2023
- 2023-03-23 WO PCT/IB2023/052869 patent/WO2023180982A1/en active Application Filing
Patent Citations (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2005014A1 (en) | 1968-03-29 | 1969-12-05 | Union Tank Car Co | |
WO2007057549A2 (en) * | 2005-11-10 | 2007-05-24 | Laboratoire Limotech | Plant extract obtained by an extraction method by means of solvents of plant origin |
WO2021156104A1 (en) * | 2020-02-04 | 2021-08-12 | ISP Investments LLC. | Method for obtaining an aqueous extract of lavender, compositions comprising such an extract and their cosmetic uses |
FR3110422A1 (en) | 2020-05-19 | 2021-11-26 | International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. | Lavandula absolute for its cosmetic use |
FR3110417A1 (en) * | 2020-05-19 | 2021-11-26 | International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. | Absolute for their cosmetic use |
Non-Patent Citations (1)
Title |
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ANONYMOUS: "Quels sont les effets du manque de sommeil sur notre visage ? - FaceKult", 7 November 2021 (2021-11-07), pages 1 - 3, XP093055912, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:https://www.facekult.com/blogs/facekulture/quels-sont-les-effets-du-manque-de-sommeil-sur-notre-visage> [retrieved on 20230620] * |
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