WO2020249382A1 - Cosmetic use of an extract of golden grass (syngonanthus nitens ruhland) - Google Patents

Cosmetic use of an extract of golden grass (syngonanthus nitens ruhland) Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2020249382A1
WO2020249382A1 PCT/EP2020/064426 EP2020064426W WO2020249382A1 WO 2020249382 A1 WO2020249382 A1 WO 2020249382A1 EP 2020064426 W EP2020064426 W EP 2020064426W WO 2020249382 A1 WO2020249382 A1 WO 2020249382A1
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Prior art keywords
extract
skin
cosmetic
composition
gold
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PCT/EP2020/064426
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French (fr)
Inventor
Betty TOUZEAU
Christian Lubrano
Céline LAPERDRIX
Original Assignee
Laboratoires De Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher
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Application filed by Laboratoires De Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher filed Critical Laboratoires De Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher
Priority to EP20729661.7A priority Critical patent/EP3982915A1/en
Publication of WO2020249382A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020249382A1/en

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/87—Application Devices; Containers; Packaging

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition or
  • dermatological comprising a plant extract, to a device comprising this cosmetic or dermatological composition, as well as to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care process, comprising the application to the skin or the mucous membranes of the cosmetic composition and to a use of the plant extract as a cosmetic active.
  • cosmetics and dermatology more particularly skin cosmetics.
  • the skin is a vital organ in its own right which consists of three tissues
  • multistratified (Malpighian) and keratinized epithelium is composed of different cells associated with numerous barrier and protective functions.
  • the majority cells are the keratinocytes which divide in the basal layer and begin their differentiation up to the horny layer (outermost layer) then are eliminated by desquamation, in 21 to 28 days, on average.
  • the epidermis also contains melanocytes, cells responsible for the pigmentation of the skin. The latter present dendrites, branching allowing the transport of melanin to the surrounding keratinocytes.
  • a melanocyte is in contact with about forty keratinocytes on average, which forms a pigment unit.
  • the major role of the epidermis is to provide the skin, and therefore the human body, with a first line of protection against external attacks, such as physical, chemical, water and bacteriological attacks.
  • This protection is provided in particular by the most differentiated layers and the horny layer known for its hydrophobic properties, its compact and waterproof appearance.
  • Good keratinocyte differentiation and therefore good desquamation are essential for a smooth, homogeneous and regular surface.
  • external stresses and age slow down this process which can then become longer and more irregular.
  • As the desquamation becomes irregular and / or anarchic defects in the smoothness and homogeneity of the surface of the skin set in.
  • pigment spots can appear due to the disorganization of melanin, which involves irregularities in the color and complexion of the face.
  • fibroblasts and matrix proteins giving the skin its known qualities of compressibility and elasticity. Changes in its texture and composition are largely responsible for the changes in the skin that occur during aging. The relief of the stratum corneum is, moreover, directly conditioned by the quality and density of the underlying dermis.
  • structures such as an important circulatory and nutritive network, made up of blood vessels and lymphatic capillaries, as well as the epidermal appendages: hair, body hair, nails, pilosebaceous glands and sweat glands, which originate in the deep dermis.
  • the hypodermis located in depth and consisting mainly of fatty lobules (adipocytes), provides a primary support function, mechanical and thermal protection and also plays a role of storing energy reserves that can be quickly mobilized for all needs. biological, such as cell renewal, body defense or muscle contraction.
  • adipocytes fatty lobules
  • biological such as cell renewal, body defense or muscle contraction.
  • Expectations in terms of cosmetics are moving more and more towards natural, effective and eco-designed products. Cosmetic responses to the problem of skin aging are frequently oriented towards alpha-hydroxy acids (glycolic, malic, citric and tartaric acid) which present an immediate action due to the exfoliating effect. But they can lead to
  • the object of the present invention is precisely to meet these needs and drawbacks of the prior art.
  • the inventors are the very first to use a vegetable gold extract
  • the inventors have in particular demonstrated an effect of this extract on the differentiation of epidermal keratinocytes, the inhibition of melanin synthesis, the stimulation of the transfer of melanin from the melanocytes to the surrounding keratinocytes, but also a effect on angiogenesis.
  • this extract makes it possible to improve and protect the appearance of the skin, in particular by providing an effect of smoothing and / or softness and / or of shine enhancement, moisturizing effect and nourishing effect.
  • this extract also makes it possible to standardize the complexion and to limit the pigmented spots of the skin, in particular by inhibiting the synthesis of melanin, the homogenization of the transfer of melanin into the keratinocytes, in order to obtain a better distribution of the coloration.
  • a first object of the invention relates to a composition
  • cosmetic or dermatological comprising at least one plant gold extract (Syngonanthus nitens Ruhland) and at least one cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable vehicle.
  • plant gold extract Syngonanthus nitens Ruhland
  • Syngonanthus nitens Ruhland also called Eriocaulon nitens Bong., Golden grass in English, Capim dourado in Portuguese, commonly called “vegetable gold” in French or also golden grass, is a herbaceous endemic to Brazil. It grows in the humid regions (marshes) of Jalapâo in the east of the state of Tocantins.
  • the Jalopâo is part of the Cerrado, a precious Brazilian ecosystem in which we find more than 11,000 plant species and 3 biotypes.
  • Syngonanthus nitens is a perennial polycarpic herb with leaves arranged in a spiral in a basal rosette of 4cm in diameter.
  • the plant can produce 1 to 10 stems annually, each stem having a flower head at the top. Flowering begins in July and seeds are produced from September to October. Each flower head contains approximately 60 +/- 14 seeds measuring 0.7 to 1.0mm long and 0.2 to 0.35mm wide. The seeds are dispersed naturally by wind or human hand, allowing their reproduction.
  • the stem is covered with a basal sheath. Between September and October, the stems take on a golden color and easily detach from the basal rosette. The stem measures between 30 and 70cm long and 5mm wide, depending on the variety.
  • Vegetable gold grows near waterways, especially marshes. In this region, the flowering stalk is harvested for local crafts, especially to make jewelry or bags. The harvest of vegetable gold takes place exclusively from September 20 to November 20 and flowering stems after harvest must be tapped to disseminate the seeds in nature.
  • the methanolic extract of the stems also exhibits antioxidant and antimicrobial efficacy (Felipe Hilârio: “Estudo quimico e avaliacao da atividade antioxidante e antimicrobiana dos escapos of Syngonanthus nitens (Bong.) Ruhland. (Eriocaulacea)”. 2012 ([2])) .
  • At least one plant gold extract can be an extract of all or part of the aerial parts of the plant. It can in particular be chosen from an extract of flowering tops, a stem extract, an extract of a stem sheath, or a mixture thereof.
  • the extract can be an extract from the stems and sheaths of the plant.
  • the rods and sheaths can, for example, be made from co-products of local crafts.
  • the plant gold extract used in the invention can be an alcoholic, aqueous or hydro-alcoholic extract of the parts of plants defined above.
  • the composition can comprise all or part of the compounds
  • hydrophilic and water-soluble which are present in the plant, in particular in the stems and sheaths of the plant, and which are extracted therefrom by means of a solvent chosen from water, or an alcohol or a mixture of several alcohols, or a mixture of water and at least one alcohol.
  • the extract can be a hydro-alcoholic, in particular hydroethanolic, extract of stems, in particular comprising the residues of golden stems and the residues of the sheaths of the stems.
  • the extraction solvent used to prepare the extract used in the context of the present invention can be chosen from solvents known to those skilled in the art, such as for example ethanol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol , dipropylene glycol, methylpropanediol, propane-1, 3-diol, glycerin, water or a mixture of these solvents. It may, for example, be an extract obtained from stems, in particular extracted with a hydroethanolic mixture.
  • the vegetable gold extract can be obtained by extraction hydroalcoholic, preferably in a water / ethanol mixture having a water / alcohol mass ratio of between 90/10 and 10/90, for example of the order of 70/30.
  • the vegetable gold extract can be obtained by any process known to those skilled in the art.
  • the vegetable gold extract can be obtained by grinding (or not) one or more parts of the plant, preferably dried and cut beforehand, then by bringing the ground material into contact with a solvent as defined above, preferably a water / alcohol mixture having a water / alcohol ratio between 90/10 and 10/90, for example a water / alcohol mixture having a weight ratio of 70/30.
  • the extraction can be carried out by mixing the ground material and the solvent and by subjecting this mixture to stirring so as to optimize the exchanges between the ground material and the extraction solvent.
  • the extraction can be carried out at a temperature of 20 to 100 ° C.
  • the extraction can be carried out for a period of the order of 1/2 to 4 hours.
  • the amount of plant used relative to the solvent can be for example from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of plants and solvent, for example 1.0 to 15.0%, 2.0 to 15, 0%, or 3.0 to 12.0% or 4.0 to 6.0%, for example about 5.0%.
  • the extract used in the present invention can optionally be purified prior to its use in the composition. This purification can for example be carried out by liquid-liquid extraction, by precipitation or by preparative chromatography.
  • the extract used in the present invention can be diluted in a solvent known to those skilled in the art, such as, for example, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, methylpropanediol, propane-1, 3-diol, glycerin, water or a mixture of these solvents. It may, for example, be an extract obtained from stems and / or sheaths, in particular extracted with a hydroethanolic mixture and diluted in glycerin.
  • a solvent known to those skilled in the art such as, for example, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, methylpropanediol, propane-1, 3-diol, glycerin, water or a mixture of these solvents. It may, for example, be an extract obtained from stems and / or sheaths, in particular extracted with a hydroethanolic mixture and diluted in glycerin.
  • the crude extract obtained which is obtained from the extraction described above is used as the vegetable gold extract. It can therefore be the medium as it is obtained directly at the end of the extraction with one of the abovementioned solvents, this crude extract optionally being filtered beforehand before its use in the composition of the invention.
  • the extract used is in the form of a dispersion or a solution in a liquid medium including the aforementioned solvent.
  • composition of the present invention generally in the form of a powder which can be used as is or taken up in a solvent or a dispersant to formulate the composition of the present invention.
  • An extract according to the invention can be prepared according to the process comprising the following steps:
  • the "metabolites”, within the meaning of the present invention, are compounds or molecules produced by cells of a plant. They can be primary metabolites, for example sugars, proteins / amino acids and / or lipids. Alternatively or in addition, they can be metabolites
  • the extract of the invention may advantageously contain flavonoids.
  • the composition of the invention can thus comprise at least one flavonoid chosen from orientin, homorientin, luteolin and their derivatives, swertiajaponin, a flavones and a flavanone.
  • the term "cosmetic composition” is understood in the present invention to mean any composition for cosmetic purposes, that is to say aesthetic, a composition which can be brought into contact with the surface parts of the human body, for example the epidermis, hair and capillary systems.
  • a cosmetic composition makes it possible, exclusively or mainly, to protect them, to perfume them, to maintain them in good condition, to modify their appearance or to correct the surface defects thereof.
  • composition for dermatological purposes that is to say a composition which can be brought into contact with the surface parts of the human body, for a treatment of the skin, mucous membranes, and integuments, such as nails, hair or body hair.
  • cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable vehicle is meant a vehicle suitable for use in contact with human and animal skin cells, in particular cells of the epidermis, without toxicity, irritation, undue allergic response and the like, and proportionate to a reasonable risk / benefit ratio.
  • the cosmetically acceptable vehicle can be chosen from water,
  • composition of the invention can be obtained by any suitable process known to those skilled in the art for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition. It could be, for example, a simple mixture. It may alternatively be, for example, a process comprising a step of incorporating an internal phase into an external phase by means of an emulsifier, for example a turbine of the rotor-stator type. It may also be, for example, a process using Phase Inversion Temperature (TIP), this process being
  • the cosmetic or dermatological composition can be any cosmetic or dermatological composition.
  • composition may for example comprise from 0.0001 to 10.0% by weight, or from 0.001 to 10.0% by weight, or from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight or from 0.1 to 10.0 % by weight, or from 1.0 to 10.0% by weight, or from 1.0 to 9.0%, or from 2.0 to 9.0%, for example 0.5% to 7.0% by weight of said vegetable gold extract relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the present invention can be in any form suitable for cosmetic or dermatological application.
  • the composition is a composition for topical use.
  • composition in a form chosen from the group comprising an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion or a mixture of these emulsions.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological composition may for example be in a form chosen from the group comprising an aqueous or hydroalcoholic gel, an aqueous or hydroalcoholic cream and an aqueous or hydroalcoholic lotion.
  • these formulations which can be used for the implementation of the present invention are known in the state of the art by formulators. In these examples of composition, it suffices to add the plant gold extract of the present invention to obtain a composition in accordance with the present invention.
  • the composition may be in a form chosen from an ointment, a cream, an oil, a milk, an ointment, a powder, a soaked tampon, a solution, a gel, a serum, a balm , a butter, a lotion, a suspension, a soap and an emulsion.
  • the extract of the present invention can be used in a composition
  • Inactive substances or ingredients are those which do not act cosmetically or dermatologically. These are the elements of the composition making it possible in particular to accompany the extract, to constitute a particular formulation, to keep the active extract over time, this list not being exhaustive. he can in other words, it is any basic product which may be found in conventional cosmetic or dermatological compositions.
  • the active substances or ingredients are those which, in the cosmetic or dermatological application referred to, have an aesthetic and / or medical action.
  • Another object of the invention relates to a device which may be in a form chosen from a pot, a pump-bottle, a wipe, a mask, a transdermal device, a patch, a spray, said device comprising a plant gold extract or a composition according to the invention.
  • Another object of the invention relates to a non-therapeutic or dermatological cosmetic care process, comprising the application to the skin or the mucous membranes of a cosmetic composition according to the invention or of an extract of 'vegetable gold.
  • this treatment process makes it possible to provide
  • an effect of improving the surface qualities of the skin for example of at least one effect chosen from homogenization of the color of the skin, improvement of the complexion, reduction of pigmented spots on the skin, regeneration of the skin, improving the radiance of the skin, improving the smoothness, increasing the smoothness of the skin, improving the general appearance of the skin, improving the hydration and improved nutrition of the skin and / or mucous membranes.
  • Another object of the invention relates to the use of a plant gold extract (Syngonanthus nitens Ruhland) as a cosmetic active.
  • a plant gold extract Syngonanthus nitens Ruhland
  • cosmetic active means, within the meaning of the present invention, a
  • the term "moisturizing action” is understood to mean an action aimed at increasing the water content of the skin, the dermis or the epidermis, either by reinforcing the dermal blood supply, by stimulating angiogenesis, or by limiting insensible water losses by strengthening the barrier function of the epidermis.
  • the term "nourishing action” is understood to mean an action aimed at increasing the nutrient content of the skin, the dermis or the epidermis either by reinforcing the dermal blood supply or by reinforcing of synthesis of hydrophobic molecules on the surface of the epidermis by stimulation of keratinocyte differentiation.
  • the plant gold extract is used as an anti-aging cosmetic active.
  • anti-aging action is understood to mean an action of preventing / or limiting the signs of skin aging, in particular of accelerated (exogenous) aging caused by environmental stresses, for example ultraviolet light, or aging
  • the anti-aging action can involve an action of improving and / or protecting the appearance of the skin, in particular by smoothing, improving the softness, radiance, uniformity of the complexion and reduction of pigmented spots on the skin.
  • appendages is understood to mean the epidermal appendages which originate in the deep dermis, comprising at least one element chosen from hairs, nails, pilosebaceous glands and sweat glands.
  • mucosa is understood within the meaning of the present invention, in particular the external mucous membranes such as the lips.
  • the term "improving the appearance of the skin” is understood to mean any effect making it possible to obtain an advantage on the appearance of the skin compared to the appearance of the skin before use of the extract according to the invention.
  • this action allows the surface to be smoother and / or more homogeneous and / or more regular.
  • the term "softening the skin” means obtaining a silkier effect on the skin to the touch after use of the extract, and / or a reduction in the effect of roughness of the skin to the touch.
  • obtaining a brighter skin in particular by stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes and / or stimulating angiogenesis.
  • the term "improving the homogeneity of the color of the skin” is understood to mean obtaining a more homogeneous color after use of the extract on the skin in particular via a better distribution of the melanin synthesized by the melanocytes towards the surrounding keratinocytes.
  • limiting pigmented spots on the skin means the reduction in the pigmentation of the spots of the skin after the use of the extract on the skin, in particular via a reduction in synthesis of melanin and better transfer thereof to the keratinocytes.
  • the use is understood to mean a non-therapeutic use, for example for the treatment of normal skin, that is to say skin not presenting a pathological condition, excluding any therapeutic use.
  • any cosmetic use and any cosmetic process according to the invention are respectively non-therapeutic cosmetic uses and non-therapeutic cosmetic processes.
  • Example 1 Preparation of the vegetable gold extract An extract according to the invention is prepared according to the process comprising the following steps:
  • Example 2 Effect of vegetable gold extract obtained in Example 1 on
  • the studies were carried out on normal human keratinocytes and on normal human melanocytes, obtained from abdominal plasties, inoculated in a monolayer under the appropriate culture conditions, namely in a mixture of keratinocyte-SFM medium ("serum -free medium ”) and 254 medium (ref M254-500 from thermoficher scientific) supplemented (ratio 4: 1), at a temperature of 37 ° C, under an atmosphere of 5% C02 and saturated with humidity. The cells were treated twice with vegetable gold extract for 48 hours and then 72 hours at 1%.
  • the cells are then recovered, and the transfer of melanin is evaluated by co-labeling the keratinocytes with the CD49f antibody (ref 217657 from Sigma Aldrich) and the melanosomes with an antibody specific for a melanosome protein (PmeM 7, ref sc-377325 from santa cruz tech).
  • This co-labeling associated with the flow cytometry analysis makes it possible to specifically quantify the melanosomes that have actually been transferred into the keratinocytes.
  • Example 3 Effect of vegetable gold extract obtained in Example 1 on
  • Example 4 Effect of the plant gold extract in Example 1 on the differentiation of keratinocytes.
  • the cells were treated with the plant gold extract at 0.012% in differentiation medium, namely keratinocyte-SFM medium supplemented with BPE at 50 pg / ml, EGF at 5 ng / ml, butyrate of sodium at 1 mM, calcium chloride at 1.5 mM final and fluorescein-cadaverine at 20 mM.
  • the cells are treated with 1 mM retinol in the same medium, to serve as a control for inhibition of transglutaminase.
  • the cells are reprocessed 4 days, 7 days and 10 days after the first treatment. 10 and 12 days after the 1 st treatment, the incorporation of fluorescein-cadaverine during the formation of the horny envelopes is measured by fluorescence (excitation wavelength 485 nm; emission wavelength 530 nm).
  • a cell viability measurement test (with AlamarBlue®) as well as an assay of total proteins (with Sulforhodamine B or SRB) are carried out in order to ensure that the incorporation of fluorescein-cadaverine is although due to increased activity of transglutaminase.
  • Example 5 Effect of the plant gold extract obtained in Example 1 on the formation of microtubules by endothelial cells.
  • HMVEC human dermal microvascular endothelial cells
  • the endothelial cells are labeled with an anti-vWF antibody (von Willebrand Factor).
  • the nuclei are also labeled with a solution of Hoechst 33258.
  • the total surface area of the pseudotubes is measured using the Image J software from the anti-vWF labeling images.
  • Example 6 Formulation of the vegetable gold extract in a serum-type treatment [0086] [Table 5]
  • Example 7 Formulation of the vegetable gold extract in a day care
  • Example 8 Formulation of the vegetable gold extract in a night care [0090] [Table 7]

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising at least one extract of golden grass (Syngonanthus nitens Ruhland) and at least one cosmetically and/or dermatologically acceptable excipient. The present invention also relates to a device which is in a form selected from a pot, a pump bottle, a wipe, a mask, a transdermal device, a patch, a spray, this device comprising a cosmetic or dermatological composition as defined above. The present invention further relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method comprising the application of a cosmetic composition as defined above to the skin or the mucous membranes, and to the use of an extract of golden grass (Syngonanthus nitens Ruhland) as a cosmetic active ingredient.

Description

Description Description
Titre de l'invention : UTILISATION COSMÉTIQUE D’UN EXTRAIT D’OR VÉGÉTAL (SYNGONANTHUS NITENS Title of the invention: COSMETIC USE OF A VEGETABLE GOLD EXTRACT (SYNGONANTHUS NITENS
RUHLAND) RUHLAND)
[0001 ] Domaine technique [0001] Technical field
[0002] La présente invention se rapporte à une composition cosmétique ou [0002] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition or
dermatologique comprenant un extrait végétal, à un dispositif comprenant cette composition cosmétique ou dermatologique, ainsi qu’à un procédé de soin cosmétique non-thérapeutique, comprenant l’application sur la peau ou les muqueuses da la composition cosmétique et à une utilisation de l’extrait végétal en tant qu’actif cosmétique. dermatological comprising a plant extract, to a device comprising this cosmetic or dermatological composition, as well as to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care process, comprising the application to the skin or the mucous membranes of the cosmetic composition and to a use of the plant extract as a cosmetic active.
[0003] La présente invention trouve une application dans le domaine de la [0003] The present invention finds application in the field of
cosmétique et de la dermatologie, plus particulièrement de la cosmétique cutanée. cosmetics and dermatology, more particularly skin cosmetics.
[0004] Dans la description ci-dessous, les références entre crochets ([ ]) renvoient à la liste des références présentée à la fin du texte. [0004] In the description below, the references between square brackets ([]) refer to the list of references presented at the end of the text.
[0005] Etat de la technique [0005] State of the art
[0006] La peau est un organe vital à part entière qui se compose de trois tissus [0006] The skin is a vital organ in its own right which consists of three tissues
distincts, assumant chacun différents rôles grâce à différents types cellulaires et différentes structures. distinct, each assuming different roles through different cell types and structures.
[0007] Le tissu le plus en surface et donc le plus exposé est l'épiderme. Cet [0007] The most surface tissue and therefore the most exposed is the epidermis. This
épithélium pluristratifié (Malpighien) et kératinisé, se compose de différentes cellules associées à de nombreuses fonctions de barrière et de protection. Les cellules majoritaires sont les kératinocytes qui se divisent dans la couche basale et entament leur différenciation jusqu’à la couche cornée (couche la plus externe) puis sont éliminés par desquamation, en 21 à 28 jours, en moyenne. L’épiderme comprend également des mélanocytes, cellules responsables de la pigmentation de la peau. Ces derniers présentent des dendrites, ramification permettant le transport de la mélanine vers les kératinocytes environnants. Un mélanocyte est en contact avec une quarantaine de kératinocytes en moyenne, ce qui forme une unité pigmentaire. Le rôle majeur de l'épiderme est d'apporter à la peau, et donc au corps humain, une première ligne de protection contre les agressions extérieures, comme les agressions physiques, chimiques, hydriques et bactériologiques. Cette protection est notamment assurée par les couches les plus différenciées et la couche cornée connue pour ses propriétés hydrophobes, son aspect compacte et étanche. Une bonne différenciation des kératinocytes et donc une bonne desquamation sont essentielles pour une surface lisse, homogène et régulière. Or, les stress extérieurs et l’âge ralentissent ce processus qui peut alors devenir plus long et plus irrégulier. La desquamation devenant irrégulière et/ou anarchique, des défauts de lissage et d’homogénéité de surface de la peau s’installent. De plus, lors du vieillissement, des tâches pigmentaires peuvent apparaître en raison de la désorganisation de la mélanine, ce qui implique des irrégularités de couleur et de teint du visage. multistratified (Malpighian) and keratinized epithelium, is composed of different cells associated with numerous barrier and protective functions. The majority cells are the keratinocytes which divide in the basal layer and begin their differentiation up to the horny layer (outermost layer) then are eliminated by desquamation, in 21 to 28 days, on average. The epidermis also contains melanocytes, cells responsible for the pigmentation of the skin. The latter present dendrites, branching allowing the transport of melanin to the surrounding keratinocytes. A melanocyte is in contact with about forty keratinocytes on average, which forms a pigment unit. The major role of the epidermis is to provide the skin, and therefore the human body, with a first line of protection against external attacks, such as physical, chemical, water and bacteriological attacks. This protection is provided in particular by the most differentiated layers and the horny layer known for its hydrophobic properties, its compact and waterproof appearance. Good keratinocyte differentiation and therefore good desquamation are essential for a smooth, homogeneous and regular surface. However, external stresses and age slow down this process which can then become longer and more irregular. As the desquamation becomes irregular and / or anarchic, defects in the smoothness and homogeneity of the surface of the skin set in. In addition, during aging, pigment spots can appear due to the disorganization of melanin, which involves irregularities in the color and complexion of the face.
[0008] En position intermédiaire, le derme est un tissu conjonctif investi [0008] In the intermediate position, the dermis is a connective tissue invested
majoritairement de fibroblastes et de protéines matricielles donnant à la peau ses qualités de compressibilité et d'élasticité connues. Les modifications de sa texture et de sa composition sont largement responsables des altérations de la peau qui surviennent au cours du vieillissement. Le relief de la couche cornée est, par ailleurs, directement conditionné par la qualité et la densité du derme qui la sous-tend. mainly fibroblasts and matrix proteins giving the skin its known qualities of compressibility and elasticity. Changes in its texture and composition are largely responsible for the changes in the skin that occur during aging. The relief of the stratum corneum is, moreover, directly conditioned by the quality and density of the underlying dermis.
[0009] Au sein de la trame conjonctive, s'intercalent aussi d’autres cellules et [0009] Within the connective tissue, other cells are also inserted and
structures, tel un important réseau circulatoire et nutritif, constitué des vaisseaux sanguins et des capillaires lymphatiques, ainsi que les annexes épidermiques : cheveux, poils, ongles, glandes pilosébacées et glandes sudoripares, qui prennent naissance dans le derme profond. structures, such as an important circulatory and nutritive network, made up of blood vessels and lymphatic capillaries, as well as the epidermal appendages: hair, body hair, nails, pilosebaceous glands and sweat glands, which originate in the deep dermis.
[0010] L'hypoderme, situé en profondeur et constitué en majeure partie de lobules graisseux (adipocytes), assure une fonction de support primaire, de protection mécanique et thermique et joue aussi un rôle de stockage des réserves énergétiques rapidement mobilisables pour tous les besoins biologiques, comme par exemple le renouvellement cellulaire, la défense de l’organisme ou la contraction musculaire. [0011 ] Les attentes en termes de cosmétiques s’orientent de plus en plus vers des produits naturels, efficaces et éco-conçus. Les réponses cosmétiques à la problématique du vieillissement cutané s’orientent fréquemment vers les alpha- hydroxyacides (acide glycolique, malique, citrique et tartrique) qui présentent une action immédiate due à l’effet exfoliant. Mais ils peuvent entraîner des The hypodermis, located in depth and consisting mainly of fatty lobules (adipocytes), provides a primary support function, mechanical and thermal protection and also plays a role of storing energy reserves that can be quickly mobilized for all needs. biological, such as cell renewal, body defense or muscle contraction. [0011] Expectations in terms of cosmetics are moving more and more towards natural, effective and eco-designed products. Cosmetic responses to the problem of skin aging are frequently oriented towards alpha-hydroxy acids (glycolic, malic, citric and tartaric acid) which present an immediate action due to the exfoliating effect. But they can lead to
dégradations de l’épiderme, des inflammations et peuvent amplifier les dégâts induits par les UV. De plus, il s’agit souvent d’une action limitée en surface et limitée dans le temps ; laquelle peut occasionner un effet rebond. damage to the epidermis, inflammation and can amplify the damage caused by UV rays. In addition, it is often a limited action on the surface and limited in time; which can cause a rebound effect.
[0012] Il existe donc un réel besoin de trouver de nouvelles compositions et/ou [0012] There is therefore a real need to find new compositions and / or
composés permettant d'assurer de façon effective, complète, durable et sûre, un effet d’amélioration des qualités de surface de la peau. En particulier, il existe un réel besoin de trouver des composés naturels qui permettent une amélioration et une protection des propriétés de surface, de douceur, d’éclat, de lissage et d’homogénéité du teint de la peau, un effet hydratant et un effet nourrissant. compounds that provide an effective, complete, long-lasting and safe effect of improving the surface qualities of the skin. In particular, there is a real need to find natural compounds which allow an improvement and protection of the properties of surface, softness, radiance, smoothness and uniformity of the complexion of the skin, a moisturizing effect and an effect. feeding.
[0013] Description de l’invention [0013] Description of the invention
[0014] La présente invention a précisément pour but de répondre à ces besoins et inconvénients de l’art antérieur. The object of the present invention is precisely to meet these needs and drawbacks of the prior art.
[0015] Les inventeurs sont les tout premiers à utiliser un extrait d’Or végétal [0015] The inventors are the very first to use a vegetable gold extract
permettant précisément de répondre efficacement aux besoins précités. precisely enabling the aforementioned needs to be met effectively.
[0016] Les inventeurs sont les tous premiers à avoir découvert que cet extrait d’Or végétal possède de manière inattendue un effet anti-âge. [0016] The inventors are the very first to have discovered that this vegetable gold extract unexpectedly has an anti-aging effect.
[0017] En effet, les inventeurs ont notamment mis en évidence un effet de cet extrait sur la différenciation des kératinocytes épidermiques, l’inhibition de la synthèse de mélanine, la stimulation du transfert de la mélanine des mélanocytes aux kératinocytes environnants, mais également un effet sur l’angiogenèse. [0017] In fact, the inventors have in particular demonstrated an effect of this extract on the differentiation of epidermal keratinocytes, the inhibition of melanin synthesis, the stimulation of the transfer of melanin from the melanocytes to the surrounding keratinocytes, but also a effect on angiogenesis.
[0018] Ainsi, les inventeurs sont les premiers à proposer cet extrait en tant qu’agent cosmétique permettant d’améliorer et de protéger l’aspect de la peau, notamment en apportant un effet de lissage et/ou douceur et/ ou d’amélioration de l’éclat, un effet hydratant et un effet nourrissant. Avantageusement, cet extrait permet également d’uniformiser le teint et de limiter les tâches pigmentées de la peau, notamment par l’inhibition de la synthèse de mélanine, l’homogénéisation du transfert de la mélanine dans les kératinocytes, ceci afin d’obtenir une meilleure répartition de la coloration. [0018] Thus, the inventors are the first to offer this extract as a cosmetic agent making it possible to improve and protect the appearance of the skin, in particular by providing an effect of smoothing and / or softness and / or of shine enhancement, moisturizing effect and nourishing effect. Advantageously, this extract also makes it possible to standardize the complexion and to limit the pigmented spots of the skin, in particular by inhibiting the synthesis of melanin, the homogenization of the transfer of melanin into the keratinocytes, in order to obtain a better distribution of the coloration.
[0019] Ainsi, un premier objet de l’invention se rapporte à une composition [0019] Thus, a first object of the invention relates to a composition
cosmétique ou dermatologique comprenant au moins un extrait d’or végétal ( Syngonanthus nitens Ruhland) et au moins un véhicule cosmétiquement et/ou dermatologiquement acceptable. cosmetic or dermatological comprising at least one plant gold extract (Syngonanthus nitens Ruhland) and at least one cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable vehicle.
[0020] Syngonanthus nitens Ruhland, également appelée Eriocaulon nitens Bong., golden grass en anglais, Capim dourado en portugais, communément appelée « or végétal » en français ou encore herbe dorée, est une herbacée endémique du Brésil. Elle pousse dans les régions humides (marais) du Jalapâo à l’Est de l’état du Tocantins. Le Jalopâo fait partie du Cerrado, un écosystème précieux du Brésil dans lequel on trouve plus de 11 000 espèces végétales et 3 biotypes. Syngonanthus nitens Ruhland, also called Eriocaulon nitens Bong., Golden grass in English, Capim dourado in Portuguese, commonly called "vegetable gold" in French or also golden grass, is a herbaceous endemic to Brazil. It grows in the humid regions (marshes) of Jalapâo in the east of the state of Tocantins. The Jalopâo is part of the Cerrado, a precious Brazilian ecosystem in which we find more than 11,000 plant species and 3 biotypes.
[0021 ] Syngonanthus nitens est une herbe polycarpique pérenne avec des feuilles arrangées en spirale dans une rosette basale de 4cm de diamètre. La plante peut annuellement produire 1 à 10 tiges, chaque tige présentant un capitule floral en son sommet. La floraison commence en juillet et les graines sont produites de septembre à octobre. Chaque capitule contient environ 60+/-14 graines mesurant de 0,7 à 1 ,0mm de long et 0,2 à 0,35mm de large. Les graines sont dispersées naturellement par le vent ou la main de l’homme, permettant sa reproduction. La tige est recouverte d’une gaine basale. Entre septembre et octobre, les tiges prennent une couleur dorée et se détachent facilement de la rosette basale. La tige mesure entre 30 et 70cm de long et 5mm de large, selon les variétés. L’or végétal pousse près de cours d’eau, notamment des marais. Dans cette région, la tige fleurie est récoltée pour l’artisanat local, pour fabriquer notamment des bijoux ou des sacs. La récolte de l’or végétal a lieu exclusivement du 20 septembre au 20 novembre et les tiges fleuries après récolte doivent être tapées pour disséminer les graines dans la nature. [0021] Syngonanthus nitens is a perennial polycarpic herb with leaves arranged in a spiral in a basal rosette of 4cm in diameter. The plant can produce 1 to 10 stems annually, each stem having a flower head at the top. Flowering begins in July and seeds are produced from September to October. Each flower head contains approximately 60 +/- 14 seeds measuring 0.7 to 1.0mm long and 0.2 to 0.35mm wide. The seeds are dispersed naturally by wind or human hand, allowing their reproduction. The stem is covered with a basal sheath. Between September and October, the stems take on a golden color and easily detach from the basal rosette. The stem measures between 30 and 70cm long and 5mm wide, depending on the variety. Vegetable gold grows near waterways, especially marshes. In this region, the flowering stalk is harvested for local crafts, especially to make jewelry or bags. The harvest of vegetable gold takes place exclusively from September 20 to November 20 and flowering stems after harvest must be tapped to disseminate the seeds in nature.
[0022] Cette plante n’est pas connue en usage alimentaire, ni en cosmétique, et n’a jamais été utilisée en tant que médicament. [0023] L’extrait méthanolique de tiges a démontré des efficacités antifongiques et dans le traitement de candidose vulvovaginale (Marcelo Gonzaga et al. : « Evaluation of Syngonanthus nitens (Bong.) Ruhl. Extract as antifungal and in the treatment of vulvovaginal candidiasis”. Medical Mycology. 2013 Oct ; 51 : 673- 682 ([1 ])). L’extrait méthanolique de tiges présente aussi des efficacités antioxydantes et antimicrobiennes (Felipe Hilârio : « Estudo quimico e avaliacao da atividade antioxidante e antimicrobiana dos escapos de Syngonanthus nitens (Bong.) Ruhland. (Eriocaulacea) ». 2012 ([2])). This plant is not known in food use or in cosmetics, and has never been used as a medicine. The methanolic extract of the stems has demonstrated antifungal efficacy and in the treatment of vulvovaginal candidiasis (Marcelo Gonzaga et al.: "Evaluation of Syngonanthus nitens (Bong.) Ruhl. Extract as antifungal and in the treatment of vulvovaginal candidiasis" . Medical Mycology. 2013 Oct; 51: 673- 682 ([1])). The methanolic extract of the stems also exhibits antioxidant and antimicrobial efficacy (Felipe Hilârio: “Estudo quimico e avaliacao da atividade antioxidante e antimicrobiana dos escapos of Syngonanthus nitens (Bong.) Ruhland. (Eriocaulacea)”. 2012 ([2])) .
[0024] On entend par extrait d’Or végétal tout extrait obtenu à partir de la plante [0024] The term “vegetable gold extract” means any extract obtained from the plant
Syngonanthus nitens Ruhland. Syngonanthus nitens Ruhland.
[0025] Selon l’invention, l’au moins un extrait d’or végétal peut être un extrait de tout ou partie des parties aériennes de la plante. Il peut notamment être choisi parmi un extrait de sommités fleuries, un extrait de tige, un extrait de gaine de tige, ou un de leurs mélanges. Avantageusement, l’extrait peut être un extrait de tiges et de gaines de la plante. Les tiges et les gaines peuvent être par exemple issues des co-produits de l’artisanat local. [0025] According to the invention, at least one plant gold extract can be an extract of all or part of the aerial parts of the plant. It can in particular be chosen from an extract of flowering tops, a stem extract, an extract of a stem sheath, or a mixture thereof. Advantageously, the extract can be an extract from the stems and sheaths of the plant. The rods and sheaths can, for example, be made from co-products of local crafts.
[0026] L’extrait d’Or végétal utilisé dans l’invention peut être un extrait alcoolique, aqueux, ou hydro-alcoolique des parties de plantes définies précédemment. Par exemple, la composition peut comprendre tout ou partie des composés [0026] The plant gold extract used in the invention can be an alcoholic, aqueous or hydro-alcoholic extract of the parts of plants defined above. For example, the composition can comprise all or part of the compounds
hydrophiles et hydrosolubles qui sont présents dans la plante, en particulier dans les tiges et les gaines de la plante, et qui en sont extraits au moyen d’un solvant choisi parmi l’eau, ou un alcool ou un mélange de plusieurs alcools, ou un mélange d’eau et d’au moins un alcool. Par exemple, l’extrait peut être un extrait hydro-alcoolique, notamment hydroéthanolique, de tiges, notamment comprenant les résidus de tiges dorés et les résidus de gaines des tiges. hydrophilic and water-soluble which are present in the plant, in particular in the stems and sheaths of the plant, and which are extracted therefrom by means of a solvent chosen from water, or an alcohol or a mixture of several alcohols, or a mixture of water and at least one alcohol. For example, the extract can be a hydro-alcoholic, in particular hydroethanolic, extract of stems, in particular comprising the residues of golden stems and the residues of the sheaths of the stems.
[0027] Le solvant d’extraction employé pour préparer l’extrait utilisé dans le cadre de la présente invention peut être choisi parmi les solvants connus de l’homme du métier, comme par exemple l’éthanol, le propylène glycol, le butylène glycol, le dipropylène glycol, le méthylpropanediol, le propane-1 ,3-diol, la glycérine, l'eau ou un mélange de ces solvants. Il peut s’agir par exemple d’un extrait obtenu à partir de tiges, notamment extraites par un mélange hydroéthanolique. The extraction solvent used to prepare the extract used in the context of the present invention can be chosen from solvents known to those skilled in the art, such as for example ethanol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol , dipropylene glycol, methylpropanediol, propane-1, 3-diol, glycerin, water or a mixture of these solvents. It may, for example, be an extract obtained from stems, in particular extracted with a hydroethanolic mixture.
Alternativement, l'extrait d’Or végétal peut-être obtenu par extraction hydroalcoolique, de préférence dans un mélange eau/éthanol ayant un rapport massique eau/alcool compris entre 90/10 et 10/90, par exemple de l'ordre de 70/30. Alternatively, the vegetable gold extract can be obtained by extraction hydroalcoholic, preferably in a water / ethanol mixture having a water / alcohol mass ratio of between 90/10 and 10/90, for example of the order of 70/30.
[0028] L'extrait d’Or végétal peut être obtenu par tout procédé connu de l’homme du métier. Par exemple, l’extrait d’Or végétal peut être obtenu en broyant (ou non) une ou plusieurs parties de la plante, de préférence séchées et coupées au préalable, puis en mettant en contact le broyât avec un solvant tel que défini précédemment, préférentiellement un mélange eau/alcool ayant un rapport eau/alcool entre 90/10 et 10/90, par exemple un mélange eau/alcool ayant un rapport massique 70/30. L'extraction peut être conduite en mélangeant le broyât et le solvant et en soumettant ce mélange à une agitation de façon à optimiser les échanges entre le broyât et le solvant d'extraction. L'extraction peut être conduite à une température de 20 à 100°C. Par exemple, l’extraction peut être réalisée pendant une durée de l'ordre de 1/2 à 4 heures. La quantité de plante utilisée par rapport au solvant peut être par exemple de 0,5 à 20% en poids par rapport au poids total de plantes et de solvant, par exemple 1 ,0 à 15,0%, 2,0 à 15,0%, ou 3,0 à 12,0% ou 4,0 à 6,0%, par exemple environ 5,0%. Il est à noter que l'extrait employé dans la présente invention peut éventuellement être purifié préalablement à sa mise en oeuvre dans la composition. Cette purification peut par exemple être effectuée par extraction liquide-liquide, par précipitation ou par chromatographie préparative. L’extrait employé dans la présente invention peut être dilué dans un solvant connu de l’homme du métier, comme par exemple le propylène glycol, le butylène glycol, le dipropylène glycol, le méthylpropanediol, le propane-1 ,3-diol, la glycérine, l'eau ou un mélange de ces solvants. Il peut s’agir par exemple d’un extrait obtenu à partir de tiges et/ou des gaines, notamment extraites par un mélange hydroéthanolique et dilué dans la glycérine. [0028] The vegetable gold extract can be obtained by any process known to those skilled in the art. For example, the vegetable gold extract can be obtained by grinding (or not) one or more parts of the plant, preferably dried and cut beforehand, then by bringing the ground material into contact with a solvent as defined above, preferably a water / alcohol mixture having a water / alcohol ratio between 90/10 and 10/90, for example a water / alcohol mixture having a weight ratio of 70/30. The extraction can be carried out by mixing the ground material and the solvent and by subjecting this mixture to stirring so as to optimize the exchanges between the ground material and the extraction solvent. The extraction can be carried out at a temperature of 20 to 100 ° C. For example, the extraction can be carried out for a period of the order of 1/2 to 4 hours. The amount of plant used relative to the solvent can be for example from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of plants and solvent, for example 1.0 to 15.0%, 2.0 to 15, 0%, or 3.0 to 12.0% or 4.0 to 6.0%, for example about 5.0%. It should be noted that the extract used in the present invention can optionally be purified prior to its use in the composition. This purification can for example be carried out by liquid-liquid extraction, by precipitation or by preparative chromatography. The extract used in the present invention can be diluted in a solvent known to those skilled in the art, such as, for example, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, methylpropanediol, propane-1, 3-diol, glycerin, water or a mixture of these solvents. It may, for example, be an extract obtained from stems and / or sheaths, in particular extracted with a hydroethanolic mixture and diluted in glycerin.
[0029] Selon un mode de réalisation, on utilise comme extrait d’Or végétal, l'extrait brut obtenu qui est issu de l'extraction décrite ci-dessus. Il peut donc s’agir du milieu tel qu'il est obtenu directement à l'issue de l'extraction par un des solvants précités, cet extrait brut étant éventuellement filtré préalablement avant son emploi dans la composition de l'invention. Dans ce mode de réalisation, l'extrait employé se présente sous la forme d'une dispersion ou d'une solution dans un milieu liquide incluant le solvant précité. [0029] According to one embodiment, the crude extract obtained which is obtained from the extraction described above is used as the vegetable gold extract. It can therefore be the medium as it is obtained directly at the end of the extraction with one of the abovementioned solvents, this crude extract optionally being filtered beforehand before its use in the composition of the invention. In this embodiment, the extract used is in the form of a dispersion or a solution in a liquid medium including the aforementioned solvent.
[0030] Selon un autre mode de réalisation, on utilise un extrait séché obtenu en According to another embodiment, using a dried extract obtained by
soumettant l'extrait brut précité, de préférence filtré, à une étape ultérieure de séchage, typiquement par atomisation ou par lyophilisation, selon des techniques connues, permettant de préserver l'intégrité des composés présents dans l'extrait. L'extrait obtenu selon ce mode de mise en oeuvre se présente subjecting the aforementioned crude extract, preferably filtered, to a subsequent drying step, typically by atomization or by lyophilization, according to known techniques, making it possible to preserve the integrity of the compounds present in the extract. The extract obtained according to this embodiment is presented
généralement sous la forme d'une poudre qui peut être employée telle qu'elle ou reprise dans un solvant ou un dispersant pour formuler la composition de la présente invention. generally in the form of a powder which can be used as is or taken up in a solvent or a dispersant to formulate the composition of the present invention.
[0031 ] Un extrait selon l’invention est susceptible d’être préparé selon le procédé comprenant les étapes suivantes : [0031] An extract according to the invention can be prepared according to the process comprising the following steps:
a) Mise en contact de tout ou partie de la plante avec un solvant de type hydroalcoolique, a) Bringing all or part of the plant into contact with a hydroalcoholic type solvent,
b) Extraction, b) Extraction,
c) Eventuellement concentration du produit obtenu à l’étape b), c) Optionally concentration of the product obtained in step b),
d) Filtration du produit obtenu, d) Filtration of the product obtained,
e) Eventuellement, dilution dans un solvant approprié ou ajout de toute substance permettant de finaliser l’extrait. e) Optionally, dilution in an appropriate solvent or addition of any substance to finalize the extract.
[0032] Les procédés et méthodes décrites ci-avant permettent ainsi d’obtenir un extrait final avec les métabolites d’intérêt. The processes and methods described above thus make it possible to obtain a final extract with the metabolites of interest.
[0033] Les « métabolites », au sens de la présente invention, sont des composés ou molécules produits par des cellules d’une plante. Il peut s’agir de métabolites primaires, par exemples des sucres, protéines/acides aminés et/ou des lipides. Alternativement ou complémentairement, il peut s’agir de métabolites [0033] The "metabolites", within the meaning of the present invention, are compounds or molecules produced by cells of a plant. They can be primary metabolites, for example sugars, proteins / amino acids and / or lipids. Alternatively or in addition, they can be metabolites
secondaires comme par exemple des polyphénols. Parmi les polyphénols, l’extrait de l’invention peut contenir avantageusement des flavonoïdes. La composition de l’invention peut ainsi comprendre au moins un flavonoïde choisi parmi l’orientine, l’homorientine, la lutéoline et leurs dérivés, la swertiajaponine, un flavones et un flavanone. [0034] On entend par « composition cosmétique », dans la présente invention, toute composition à visée cosmétique, c’est à dire esthétique, une composition pouvant être mise en contact avec les parties superficielles du corps humain, par exemple l'épiderme, les systèmes pileux et capillaires. Avantageusement, une composition cosmétique permet, exclusivement ou principalement de les protéger, parfumer, maintenir en bon état, modifier leur aspect ou en corriger les défauts superficiels. secondary, for example polyphenols. Among the polyphenols, the extract of the invention may advantageously contain flavonoids. The composition of the invention can thus comprise at least one flavonoid chosen from orientin, homorientin, luteolin and their derivatives, swertiajaponin, a flavones and a flavanone. The term "cosmetic composition" is understood in the present invention to mean any composition for cosmetic purposes, that is to say aesthetic, a composition which can be brought into contact with the surface parts of the human body, for example the epidermis, hair and capillary systems. Advantageously, a cosmetic composition makes it possible, exclusively or mainly, to protect them, to perfume them, to maintain them in good condition, to modify their appearance or to correct the surface defects thereof.
[0035] Dans la présente, on entend par « composition dermatologique » toute In the present, the term “dermatological composition” is understood to mean any
composition à visée dermatologique, c’est à dire une composition pouvant être mise en contact avec les parties superficielles du corps humain, pour un traitement de la peau, des muqueuses, et des phanères, comme les ongles, les cheveux, ou les poils. composition for dermatological purposes, that is to say a composition which can be brought into contact with the surface parts of the human body, for a treatment of the skin, mucous membranes, and integuments, such as nails, hair or body hair.
[0036] Par « véhicule cosmétiquement ou dermatologiquement acceptable », on entend un véhicule adapté pour une utilisation en contact avec des cellules humaines et animales cutanées, en particulier les cellules de l’épiderme, sans toxicité, irritation, réponse allergique indue et similaire, et proportionné à un rapport avantage/risque raisonnable. By "cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable vehicle" is meant a vehicle suitable for use in contact with human and animal skin cells, in particular cells of the epidermis, without toxicity, irritation, undue allergic response and the like, and proportionate to a reasonable risk / benefit ratio.
[0037] Le véhicule cosmétiquement acceptable peut être choisi parmi l’eau, [0037] The cosmetically acceptable vehicle can be chosen from water,
l’allantoïne, la glycérine, le méthylpropanediol ; cette liste n’étant pas limitative. allantoin, glycerin, methylpropanediol; this list is not exhaustive.
[0038] La composition de l’invention peut être obtenue par tout procédé approprié connu de l’homme du métier pour la fabrication d’une composition cosmétique. Il peut s’agir, par exemple d’un simple mélange. Il peut s’agir alternativement, par exemple, d’un procédé comprenant une étape d’incorporation d’une phase interne dans une phase externe au moyen d'un émulseur, par exemple d'une turbine de type rotor-stator. Il peut s’agir également par exemple d’un procédé utilisant la Température d'inversion de Phase (TIP), ce procédé étant [0038] The composition of the invention can be obtained by any suitable process known to those skilled in the art for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition. It could be, for example, a simple mixture. It may alternatively be, for example, a process comprising a step of incorporating an internal phase into an external phase by means of an emulsifier, for example a turbine of the rotor-stator type. It may also be, for example, a process using Phase Inversion Temperature (TIP), this process being
classiquement utilisé par l'homme de l'art pour obtenir des émulsions huile dans eau dont les gouttelettes dispersées sont particulièrement fines, par exemple avec un diamètre de 0,1 à 1 pm. conventionally used by those skilled in the art to obtain oil-in-water emulsions in which the dispersed droplets are particularly fine, for example with a diameter of 0.1 to 1 μm.
[0039] Selon l’invention, la composition cosmétique ou dermatologique peut [0039] According to the invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition can
comprendre 0,00001 à 10 % en poids dudit extrait d’Or végétal par rapport au poids total de la composition. Ladite composition peut comprendre par exemple de 0,0001 à 10,0 % en poids, ou de 0,001 à 10,0 % en poids, ou de 0,01 à 10,0 % en poids ou de 0,1 à 10,0 % en poids, ou de 1 ,0 à 10,0 % en poids, ou de 1 ,0 à 9,0 %, ou de 2,0 à 9,0 %, par exemple 0,5% à 7,0% en poids dudit extrait d’Or végétal par rapport au poids total de la composition. comprise 0.00001 to 10% by weight of said vegetable gold extract relative to the total weight of the composition. Said composition may for example comprise from 0.0001 to 10.0% by weight, or from 0.001 to 10.0% by weight, or from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight or from 0.1 to 10.0 % by weight, or from 1.0 to 10.0% by weight, or from 1.0 to 9.0%, or from 2.0 to 9.0%, for example 0.5% to 7.0% by weight of said vegetable gold extract relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0040] La composition cosmétique ou dermatologique de la présente invention peut se trouver sous toute forme appropriée pour une application cosmétique ou dermatologique. Avantageusement, la composition est une composition à usage topique. The cosmetic or dermatological composition of the present invention can be in any form suitable for cosmetic or dermatological application. Advantageously, the composition is a composition for topical use.
[0041 ] Il peut s’agir par exemple d’une composition sous une forme choisie dans le groupe comprenant une émulsion huile dans eau ou eau dans huile ou un mélange de ces émulsions. [0041] It may, for example, be a composition in a form chosen from the group comprising an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion or a mixture of these emulsions.
[0042] Selon l’invention, la composition cosmétique ou dermatologique peut par exemple se trouver sous une forme choisie dans le groupe comprenant un gel aqueux ou hydroalcoolique, une crème aqueuse ou hydroalcoolique et une lotion aqueuse ou hydroalcoolique. Ces formulations utilisables pour la mise en oeuvre de la présente invention sont connues dans l’état de la technique par les formulateurs. Dans ces exemples de composition, il suffit d’ajouter l’extrait d’or végétal de la présente invention pour obtenir une composition conforme à la présente invention. [0042] According to the invention, the cosmetic or dermatological composition may for example be in a form chosen from the group comprising an aqueous or hydroalcoholic gel, an aqueous or hydroalcoholic cream and an aqueous or hydroalcoholic lotion. These formulations which can be used for the implementation of the present invention are known in the state of the art by formulators. In these examples of composition, it suffices to add the plant gold extract of the present invention to obtain a composition in accordance with the present invention.
[0043] Selon l’invention, la composition peut être sous une forme choisie parmi un onguent, une crème, une huile, un lait, une pommade, une poudre, un tampon imbibé, une solution, un gel, un sérum, un baume, un beurre, une lotion, une suspension, un savon et une émulsion. According to the invention, the composition may be in a form chosen from an ointment, a cream, an oil, a milk, an ointment, a powder, a soaked tampon, a solution, a gel, a serum, a balm , a butter, a lotion, a suspension, a soap and an emulsion.
[0044] L’extrait de la présente invention peut être utilisé dans une composition [0044] The extract of the present invention can be used in a composition
cosmétique ou dermatologique seul ou en combinaison avec d’autres substances ou ingrédients actifs ou inactifs cosmétiquement ou dermatologiquement. Les substances ou ingrédients inactifs sont ceux qui n’agissent pas cosmétiquement ou dermatologiquement. Il s’agit des éléments de la composition permettant notamment d’accompagner l’extrait, de constituer une formulation particulière, de conserver l’extrait actif dans le temps, cette liste n’étant pas limitative. Il peut s’agir en d’autres termes de tout produit de base pouvant se trouver dans les compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques classiques. Par opposition, les substances ou ingrédients actifs sont ceux qui dans l’application cosmétique ou dermatologique visée ont une action esthétique et/ou médicale. cosmetic or dermatological alone or in combination with other substances or active or inactive ingredients cosmetically or dermatologically. Inactive substances or ingredients are those which do not act cosmetically or dermatologically. These are the elements of the composition making it possible in particular to accompany the extract, to constitute a particular formulation, to keep the active extract over time, this list not being exhaustive. he can in other words, it is any basic product which may be found in conventional cosmetic or dermatological compositions. In contrast, the active substances or ingredients are those which, in the cosmetic or dermatological application referred to, have an aesthetic and / or medical action.
[0045] Ainsi, l’extrait d’or végétal de la présente invention, peut-être la seule [0045] Thus, the plant gold extract of the present invention, perhaps the only
substance ou ingrédient actif d’une composition, ou il peut être associé à d’autres substances ou ingrédients actifs d’une composition cosmétique ou substance or active ingredient of a composition, or it can be combined with other substances or active ingredients of a cosmetic composition or
dermatologique. dermatological.
[0046] Un autre objet de l’invention se rapporte à un dispositif pouvant se présenter sous une forme choisie parmi un pot, un flacon-pompe, une lingette, un masque, un dispositif transdermique, un patch, un spray, ledit dispositif comprenant un extrait d’or végétal ou une composition selon l’invention. Another object of the invention relates to a device which may be in a form chosen from a pot, a pump-bottle, a wipe, a mask, a transdermal device, a patch, a spray, said device comprising a plant gold extract or a composition according to the invention.
[0047] Un autre objet de l’invention se rapporte à un procédé de soin cosmétique non-thérapeutique, ou dermatologique, comprenant l’application sur la peau ou les muqueuses d’une composition cosmétique selon l’invention ou d’un extrait d’or végétal. Avantageusement, ce procédé de soin permet d’apporter Another object of the invention relates to a non-therapeutic or dermatological cosmetic care process, comprising the application to the skin or the mucous membranes of a cosmetic composition according to the invention or of an extract of 'vegetable gold. Advantageously, this treatment process makes it possible to provide
notamment un effet d’amélioration des qualités de surface de la peau, par exemple d’au moins un effet choisi parmi l’homogénéisation de la couleur de la peau, l’amélioration du teint, la diminution des tâches pigmentées de la peau, la régénération de la peau, l’amélioration de l’éclat de la peau, l’amélioration du lissage, l’augmentation de la douceur de la peau, l’amélioration de l’aspect général de la peau, l’amélioration de l’hydratation et l’amélioration de la nutrition de la peau et/ou des muqueuses. in particular an effect of improving the surface qualities of the skin, for example of at least one effect chosen from homogenization of the color of the skin, improvement of the complexion, reduction of pigmented spots on the skin, regeneration of the skin, improving the radiance of the skin, improving the smoothness, increasing the smoothness of the skin, improving the general appearance of the skin, improving the hydration and improved nutrition of the skin and / or mucous membranes.
[0048] Un autre objet de l’invention se rapporte à l’utilisation d’un extrait d’or végétal ( Syngonanthus nitens Ruhland) en tant qu’actif cosmétique. [0048] Another object of the invention relates to the use of a plant gold extract (Syngonanthus nitens Ruhland) as a cosmetic active.
[0049] On entend par « actif cosmétique », au sens de la présente invention un The term "cosmetic active" means, within the meaning of the present invention, a
composé ayant un effet d’amélioration de l’aspect esthétique et de surface de la peau par une action hydratante, nourrissante et/ou anti-âge. compound having an effect of improving the aesthetic appearance and surface of the skin by a moisturizing, nourishing and / or anti-aging action.
[0050] On entend par « action hydratante », au sens de la présente invention une action visant à augmenter la teneur en eau de la peau, du derme ou de l’épiderme soit par renfort de l’irrigation sanguine dermique, en stimulant l’angiogenèse, soit en limitant les pertes insensibles en eau en renforçant la fonction barrière de l’épiderme. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "moisturizing action" is understood to mean an action aimed at increasing the water content of the skin, the dermis or the epidermis, either by reinforcing the dermal blood supply, by stimulating angiogenesis, or by limiting insensible water losses by strengthening the barrier function of the epidermis.
[0051 ] On entend par « action nourrissante », au sens de la présente invention une action visant à augmenter la teneur en nutriment de la peau, du derme ou de l’épiderme soit par renfort de l’irrigation sanguine dermique, soit par renfort de synthèse de molécules hydrophobes en surface de l’épiderme par stimulation de la différenciation kératinocytaire. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "nourishing action" is understood to mean an action aimed at increasing the nutrient content of the skin, the dermis or the epidermis either by reinforcing the dermal blood supply or by reinforcing of synthesis of hydrophobic molecules on the surface of the epidermis by stimulation of keratinocyte differentiation.
[0052] Avantageusement, l’extrait d’or végétal est utilisé en tant qu’actif cosmétique anti-âge. [0052] Advantageously, the plant gold extract is used as an anti-aging cosmetic active.
[0053] On entend par « action anti-âge », au sens de la présente invention une action de prévention / et ou de limitation des signes du vieillissement cutané, notamment du vieillissement accéléré (exogène) provoqué par les stress environnementaux, par exemple les ultraviolets, ou du vieillissement For the purposes of the present invention, the term “anti-aging action” is understood to mean an action of preventing / or limiting the signs of skin aging, in particular of accelerated (exogenous) aging caused by environmental stresses, for example ultraviolet light, or aging
chronologique (endogène). L’action anti-âge peut passer par une action d’amélioration et/ou de protection de l’aspect de la peau notamment par le lissage, l’amélioration de la douceur, l’éclat, l’uniformisation du teint et l’atténuation des tâches pigmentées de la peau. chronological (endogenous). The anti-aging action can involve an action of improving and / or protecting the appearance of the skin, in particular by smoothing, improving the softness, radiance, uniformity of the complexion and reduction of pigmented spots on the skin.
[0054] On entend par « annexes », au sens de la présente invention, les annexes épidermiques qui prennent naissance dans le derme profond, comprenant au moins un élément choisi parmi les poils, les ongles, les glandes pilosébacées et les glandes sudoripares. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “appendages” is understood to mean the epidermal appendages which originate in the deep dermis, comprising at least one element chosen from hairs, nails, pilosebaceous glands and sweat glands.
[0055] On entend par « muqueuse », au sens de la présente invention, notamment les muqueuses externes comme les lèvres. The term "mucosa" is understood within the meaning of the present invention, in particular the external mucous membranes such as the lips.
[0056] On entend par « améliorer l’aspect de la peau », au sens de la présente invention, tout effet permettant d’obtenir un avantage sur l’aspect de la peau par rapport à l’aspect de la peau avant utilisation de l’extrait selon l’invention. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "improving the appearance of the skin" is understood to mean any effect making it possible to obtain an advantage on the appearance of the skin compared to the appearance of the skin before use of the extract according to the invention.
[0057] On entend par « lisser la surface de la peau », au sens de la présente The term "smoothing the surface of the skin" is understood to mean within the meaning of this
invention, toute amélioration de la régularité de l’épaisseur et/ou de la peau en surface, notamment de l’épiderme via une stimulation de la différenciation des kératinocytes. Avantageusement, cette action permet que la surface soit plus lisse et/ou plus homogène et/ou plus régulière. [0058] On entend par « adoucir la peau », au sens de la présente invention, l’obtention d’un effet plus soyeux de la peau au toucher après utilisation de l’extrait, et/ou une diminution de l’effet de rugosité de la peau au toucher. invention, any improvement in the regularity of the thickness and / or of the skin at the surface, in particular of the epidermis, via stimulation of the differentiation of keratinocytes. Advantageously, this action allows the surface to be smoother and / or more homogeneous and / or more regular. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "softening the skin" means obtaining a silkier effect on the skin to the touch after use of the extract, and / or a reduction in the effect of roughness of the skin to the touch.
[0059] On entend par « améliorer l’éclat de la peau », au sens de la présente By "improving the radiance of the skin" is meant within the meaning of this
invention, l’obtention d’une peau plus lumineuse, notamment via une stimulation de la différenciation des kératinocytes et/ou une stimulation de l’angiogenèse. invention, obtaining a brighter skin, in particular by stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes and / or stimulating angiogenesis.
Cet effet peut être observé qualitativement, par exemple visuellement, ou quantitativement, par exemple par des études de chromamétrie où les This effect can be observed qualitatively, for example visually, or quantitatively, for example by chromametric studies where the
composantes L*a*b* sont mesurées. L * a * b * components are measured.
[0060] On entend par « améliorer l’homogénéité de la couleur de la peau », au sens de la présente invention, l’obtention d’une couleur plus homogène après utilisation de l’extrait sur la peau notamment via une meilleure répartition de la mélanine synthétisée par les mélanocytes vers les kératinocytes environnants. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "improving the homogeneity of the color of the skin" is understood to mean obtaining a more homogeneous color after use of the extract on the skin in particular via a better distribution of the melanin synthesized by the melanocytes towards the surrounding keratinocytes.
[0061 ] On entend par « limiter les tâches pigmentées de la peau », au sens de la présente invention, la diminution de la pigmentation des tâches de la peau après l’utilisation de l’extrait sur la peau notamment via une diminution de la synthèse de mélanine et un meilleur transfert de celle-ci vers les kératinocytes. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “limiting pigmented spots on the skin” means the reduction in the pigmentation of the spots of the skin after the use of the extract on the skin, in particular via a reduction in synthesis of melanin and better transfer thereof to the keratinocytes.
[0062] Dans le cadre des procédés cosmétiques ou dermatologiques selon In the context of cosmetic or dermatological processes according to
l’invention, ou de l’utilisation selon l’invention, l’utilisation s’entend d’une utilisation non-thérapeutique, par exemple pour le traitement des peaux normales, c’est-à-dire des peaux ne présentant pas un état pathologique, à l’exclusion de toute utilisation thérapeutique. the invention, or the use according to the invention, the use is understood to mean a non-therapeutic use, for example for the treatment of normal skin, that is to say skin not presenting a pathological condition, excluding any therapeutic use.
[0063] Ainsi, toute utilisation cosmétique et tout procédé cosmétique selon l’invention sont respectivement des utilisations cosmétiques non-thérapeutiques et procédés cosmétiques non-thérapeutiques. [0063] Thus, any cosmetic use and any cosmetic process according to the invention are respectively non-therapeutic cosmetic uses and non-therapeutic cosmetic processes.
[0064] D’autres avantages pourront encore apparaître à l’homme du métier à la [0064] Other advantages may still appear to those skilled in the art at the
lecture des exemples ci-dessous, donnés à titre illustratif. reading the examples below, given by way of illustration.
[0065] EXEMPLES [0065] EXAMPLES
[0066] Exemple 1 : Préparation de l’extrait d’Or végétal [0067] Un extrait selon l’invention est préparé selon le procédé comprenant les étapes suivantes : Example 1: Preparation of the vegetable gold extract An extract according to the invention is prepared according to the process comprising the following steps:
a) mise en contact de tiges d’Or végétal comprenant les résidus de tiges dorés et les résidus de gaines des tiges, avec un solvant hydroéthanolique, c’est-à-dire avec un mélange eau / éthanol ayant un rapport massique 70/30. La quantité de plante utilisée par rapport au solvant est de 5% en poids par rapport au poids total de plantes et de solvant, a) placing vegetable gold rods comprising the residues of golden rods and the residues of the sheaths of the rods in contact with a hydroethanolic solvent, that is to say with a water / ethanol mixture having a mass ratio of 70/30 . The amount of plant used relative to the solvent is 5% by weight relative to the total weight of plants and solvent,
b) extraction pendant une durée de l'ordre de 1 H30 min à 50°C, b) extraction for a period of around 1 hour 30 minutes at 50 ° C,
c) filtration pour la séparation du résidu sec et du jus d’extraction et jusqu’à une filtration stérilisante, d) ajout de glycérine pour finaliser l’extrait. c) filtration for the separation of the dry residue and the extraction juice and until sterilizing filtration, d) addition of glycerin to finalize the extract.
[0068] Exemple 2 : Effet d’extrait d’Or végétal obtenu dans l’Exemple 1 sur le [0068] Example 2: Effect of vegetable gold extract obtained in Example 1 on
transfert de mélanine aux kératinocytes. transfer of melanin to keratinocytes.
[0069] Les études ont été réalisées sur des kératinocytes normaux humains et sur des mélanocytes humains normaux, obtenus à partir de plasties abdominales, ensemencés en monocouche dans les conditions de culture adéquates, à savoir dans un mélange de milieu kératinocyte-SFM (« serum-free medium ») et de milieu 254 (ref M254-500 de chez thermoficher scientific) complémenté (ratio 4 :1 ), à une température de 37°C, sous atmosphère à 5% de C02 et saturée en humidité. Les cellules ont été traitées deux fois avec l’extrait d’Or végétal pendant 48h puis 72h à 1 %. Les cellules sont ensuite récupérées, et le transfert de mélanine est évalué par co-marquage des kératinocytes avec l’anticorps CD49f (ref 217657 de chez Sigma Aldrich) et des mélanosomes avec un anticorps spécifique d’une protéine des mélanosomes (PmeM 7, ref sc-377325 de chez santa cruz tech). Ce co-marquage associé à l’analyse en cytométrie en flux permet de quantifier spécifiquement les mélanosomes ayant effectivement été transférés dans les kératinocytes. The studies were carried out on normal human keratinocytes and on normal human melanocytes, obtained from abdominal plasties, inoculated in a monolayer under the appropriate culture conditions, namely in a mixture of keratinocyte-SFM medium ("serum -free medium ”) and 254 medium (ref M254-500 from thermoficher scientific) supplemented (ratio 4: 1), at a temperature of 37 ° C, under an atmosphere of 5% C02 and saturated with humidity. The cells were treated twice with vegetable gold extract for 48 hours and then 72 hours at 1%. The cells are then recovered, and the transfer of melanin is evaluated by co-labeling the keratinocytes with the CD49f antibody (ref 217657 from Sigma Aldrich) and the melanosomes with an antibody specific for a melanosome protein (PmeM 7, ref sc-377325 from santa cruz tech). This co-labeling associated with the flow cytometry analysis makes it possible to specifically quantify the melanosomes that have actually been transferred into the keratinocytes.
[0070] [Tableau 1]
Figure imgf000015_0001
[0070] [Table 1]
Figure imgf000015_0001
0071 ] Le traitement avec l’extrait d’Or végétal permet de stimuler le transfert de mélanine de 39% à la concentration de 1 %. Ces résultats montrent que l’extrait d’Or végétal améliore la répartition de la mélanine au sein des kératinocytes et favorise ainsi l’homogénéité du teint. 0071] The treatment with vegetable gold extract stimulates the transfer of melanin by 39% at a concentration of 1%. These results show that the vegetable gold extract improves the distribution of melanin within the keratinocytes and thus promotes even skin tone.
[0072] Exemple 3 : Effet d’extrait d’Or végétal obtenu dans l’Exemple 1 sur la [0072] Example 3: Effect of vegetable gold extract obtained in Example 1 on
synthèse de mélanine. melanin synthesis.
[0073] L’étude a été réalisée sur une lignée de mélanocytes S91 (Clone M-3 The study was carried out on an S91 melanocyte line (Clone M-3
[Cloudman S91 melanoma] (ATCC® CCL-53.1™), cultivés dans un milieu KBM- Gold supplémenté avec le FGF bullet kit (Lonza), du calcium, du PMA (phorbol myristate acétate), de l’alpha-MSFI (Mélanocyte Stimulating hormone) et du SVF (sérum de veau foetal). Les cellules sont traitées pendant 72h avec 1 mM de L- tyrosine pour activer la synthèse de mélanine et avec l’extrait d’Or Végétal à 0,06%. En parallèle, des cellules sont traitées avec de l’acide lipoïque à 5 pg/ml comme contrôle de l’inhibition de la synthèse de mélanine. La mélanine est dosée par solubilisation dans de la soude 1 N durant 30 min à 60°C, puis mesurée par lecture de la DO à 405 nm. [Cloudman S91 melanoma] (ATCC® CCL-53.1 ™), cultured in KBM-Gold medium supplemented with FGF bullet kit (Lonza), calcium, PMA (phorbol myristate acetate), alpha-MSFI (Melanocyte Stimulating hormone) and FCS (fetal calf serum). The cells are treated for 72 hours with 1 mM of L-tyrosine to activate the synthesis of melanin and with the extract of Plant Gold at 0.06%. In parallel, cells are treated with lipoic acid at 5 µg / ml as a control for inhibition of melanin synthesis. The melanin is assayed by dissolving in 1N sodium hydroxide for 30 min at 60 ° C., then measured by reading the OD at 405 nm.
[0074] [Tableau 2] [0074] [Table 2]
Figure imgf000015_0002
Figure imgf000015_0002
0075] Le traitement avec l’extrait d’Or vétal permet d’inhiber la synthèse de 0075] Treatment with vetal gold extract inhibits the synthesis of
mélanine jusqu’à 21 % à la concentration de 0,06%. Ces résultats montrent que l’extrait d’Or végétal présente un effet anti-tâche pigmentaire. [0076] Exemple 4 : Effet de l’extrait d’Or végétal dans l’Exemple 1 sur la différenciation des kératinocytes. melanin up to 21% at the concentration of 0.06%. These results show that the vegetable gold extract has an anti-pigmentary spot effect. Example 4: Effect of the plant gold extract in Example 1 on the differentiation of keratinocytes.
[0077] Les études ont été réalisées sur des kératinocytes épidermiques humains normaux, obtenus à partir de plasties abdominales, ensemencés en monocouche dans les conditions de culture adéquates, à savoir dans un milieu kératinocyte- SFM complémenté avec du BPE (« Bovine Pituitary Extract ») à 50 pg/ml et l'EGF (« epidermal growth factor ») à 5 ng/ml, à une température de 37°C, sous atmosphère à 5% de CC et saturée en humidité. Les cellules ont été traitées avec l’extrait d’Or végétal à 0,012 % en milieu de différenciation à savoir du milieu kératinocyte-SFM complémenté avec du BPE à 50 pg/ml, de l'EGF à 5 ng/ml, du butyrate de sodium à 1 mM, du chlorure de calcium à 1 ,5 mM final et de la fluorescéine-cadavérine à 20 mM. En parallèle les cellules sont traitées avec du rétinol à 1 mM dans le même milieu, pour servir de contrôle d’inhibition de la transglutaminase. Les cellules sont retraitées 4 jours, 7 jours et 10 jours après le premier traitement. 10 et 12 jours après le 1 er traitement l'incorporation de fluoresceine-cadavérine lors de la formation des enveloppes cornées est mesurée par fluorescence (longueur d'onde d'excitation 485 nm ; longueur d'onde d'émission 530 nm). The studies were carried out on normal human epidermal keratinocytes, obtained from abdominal plasties, inoculated in a monolayer under suitable culture conditions, namely in a keratinocyte-SFM medium supplemented with BPE (“Bovine Pituitary Extract” ) at 50 pg / ml and EGF (“epidermal growth factor”) at 5 ng / ml, at a temperature of 37 ° C., under an atmosphere at 5% CC and saturated with humidity. The cells were treated with the plant gold extract at 0.012% in differentiation medium, namely keratinocyte-SFM medium supplemented with BPE at 50 pg / ml, EGF at 5 ng / ml, butyrate of sodium at 1 mM, calcium chloride at 1.5 mM final and fluorescein-cadaverine at 20 mM. In parallel, the cells are treated with 1 mM retinol in the same medium, to serve as a control for inhibition of transglutaminase. The cells are reprocessed 4 days, 7 days and 10 days after the first treatment. 10 and 12 days after the 1 st treatment, the incorporation of fluorescein-cadaverine during the formation of the horny envelopes is measured by fluorescence (excitation wavelength 485 nm; emission wavelength 530 nm).
[0078] En parallèle, un test de mesure de la viabilité cellulaire (avec AlamarBlue®) ainsi qu'un dosage des protéines totales (avec Sulforhodamine B ou SRB) sont réalisés afin de s'assurer que l'incorporation de fluoresceine-cadavérine est bien due à une augmentation de l'activité de la transglutaminase. In parallel, a cell viability measurement test (with AlamarBlue®) as well as an assay of total proteins (with Sulforhodamine B or SRB) are carried out in order to ensure that the incorporation of fluorescein-cadaverine is although due to increased activity of transglutaminase.
[0079] [Tableau 3] [0079] [Table 3]
Figure imgf000016_0001
Figure imgf000017_0002
Figure imgf000016_0001
Figure imgf000017_0002
0080] Le traitement avec l’extrait d’Or végétal permet de stimuler l’activité de la transglutaminase jusqu’à 70% à la concentration de 0,012% chez les 0080] Treatment with vegetable gold extract stimulates the activity of transglutaminase up to 70% at a concentration of 0.012% in
kératinocytes. Ces résultats montrent que l’extrait d’Or végétal stimule la différenciation des kératinocytes. keratinocytes. These results show that the vegetable gold extract stimulates the differentiation of keratinocytes.
[0081 ] Exemple 5 : Effet de l’extrait d’Or végétal obtenus dans l’Exemple 1 sur la formation de microtubules par les cellules endothéliales. [0081] Example 5: Effect of the plant gold extract obtained in Example 1 on the formation of microtubules by endothelial cells.
[0082] Dans cette expérience des cellules endothéliales microvasculaires dermiques humaines (HMVEC) sont cultivées avec des fibroblastes humains normaux dans un mélange de milieu Endothélial Cell Growth 2 supplémenté avec hEGF, hbFGF, R3 IGF, hydrocortisone, vitamine C et de milieu DMEM supplémenté avec 2 mM L-glutamine, 50 U/ml pénicilline, 50pg/ml streptomycine et 1 % de sérum de veau foetal au ratio 50/50. Les cellules en cococulture sont traitées ou non avec le VEGF à 100 ng/ml (référence) ou l’extrait d’Or végétal à 0,3% pendant 7 jours avec un renouvèlement des traitements après 72h. Après fixation et perméabilisation, les cellules endothéliales sont marquées avec un anticorps anti-vWF (von Willebrand Factor). Les noyaux sont également marqués avec une solution de Hoechst 33258. La surface totale des pseudotubes est mesurée via le logiciel Image J à partir des images de marquage anti-vWF. [0083] [Tableau 4] In this experiment, human dermal microvascular endothelial cells (HMVEC) are cultured with normal human fibroblasts in a mixture of Endothelial Cell Growth 2 medium supplemented with hEGF, hbFGF, R3 IGF, hydrocortisone, vitamin C and DMEM medium supplemented with 2 mM L-glutamine, 50 U / ml penicillin, 50 pg / ml streptomycin and 1% fetal calf serum at the 50/50 ratio. The cells in cococulture are treated or not with VEGF at 100 ng / ml (reference) or vegetable gold extract at 0.3% for 7 days with a renewal of the treatments after 72 hours. After fixation and permeabilization, the endothelial cells are labeled with an anti-vWF antibody (von Willebrand Factor). The nuclei are also labeled with a solution of Hoechst 33258. The total surface area of the pseudotubes is measured using the Image J software from the anti-vWF labeling images. [0083] [Table 4]
Figure imgf000017_0001
Figure imgf000017_0001
0084] Le traitement avec l’Or végétal permet de stimuler la formation de pseudo tubes de 68% à une concentration de 0,3%. L’augmentation des ramifications des cellules endothéliales permet de stimuler l’apport de nutriment au niveau du derme et de l’epiderme. The treatment with vegetable gold makes it possible to stimulate the formation of pseudo tubes by 68% at a concentration of 0.3%. The increase in ramifications endothelial cells helps stimulate the supply of nutrients to the dermis and epidermis.
[0085] Exemple 6 : Formulation de l'extrait d’Or végétal dans un soin de type sérum [0086] [Tableau 5] [0085] Example 6: Formulation of the vegetable gold extract in a serum-type treatment [0086] [Table 5]
Figure imgf000018_0001
Figure imgf000018_0001
[0087] Exemple 7 : Formulation de l'extrait d’Or végétal dans un soin de jour [0087] Example 7: Formulation of the vegetable gold extract in a day care
[0088] [Tableau 6] [0088] [Table 6]
Figure imgf000018_0002
Figure imgf000019_0001
Figure imgf000018_0002
Figure imgf000019_0001
[0089] Exemple 8 : Formulation de l'extrait d’Or végétal dans un soin de nuit [0090] [Tableau 7] [0089] Example 8: Formulation of the vegetable gold extract in a night care [0090] [Table 7]
Figure imgf000019_0002
Figure imgf000019_0002
[0091 ] REFERENCES BIBLIOGRAPHIQUES [0091] BIBLIOGRAPHICAL REFERENCES
[0092] 1. Marcelo Gonzaga et al. : « Evaluation of Syngonanthus nitens (Bong.) Ruhl. Extract as antifungal and in the treatment of vulvovaginal candidiasis”. Medical Mycology. 2013 Oct ; 51 : 673-682. 1. Marcelo Gonzaga et al. : "Evaluation of Syngonanthus nitens (Bong.) Ruhl. Extract as antifungal and in the treatment of vulvovaginal candidiasis ”. Medical Mycology. 2013 Oct; 51: 673-682.
[0093] 2. Felipe Hilârio : « Estudo quimico e avaliacao da atividade antioxidante e antimicrobiana dos escapos de Syngonanthus nitens (Bong.) Ruhland. [0093] 2. Felipe Hilârio: “Estudo quimico e avaliacao da antioxidante atividade e antimicrobiana dos escapos of Syngonanthus nitens (Bong.) Ruhland.
(Eriocaulacea) » ; 2012. (Eriocaulacea) ”; 2012.

Claims

Revendications Claims
[Revendication 1 ] Composition cosmétique ou dermatologique comprenant au moins un extrait d’or végétal ( Syngonanthus nitens Ruhland) et au moins un véhicule cosmétiquement et/ou dermatologiquement acceptable. [Claim 1] Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising at least one plant gold extract (Syngonanthus nitens Ruhland) and at least one cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable vehicle.
[Revendication 2] Composition selon la revendication 1 , dans laquelle ledit au moins un extrait d’or végétal est choisi parmi un extrait de sommités fleuries, un extrait de tige, un extrait de gaine de tige, ou un de leurs mélanges. [Claim 2] A composition according to claim 1, wherein said at least one plant gold extract is selected from an extract of flowering tops, a stem extract, a stem sheath extract, or a mixture thereof.
[Revendication 3] Composition selon la revendication 1 ou 2, dans laquelle ledit au moins un extrait d’or végétal est choisi parmi un extrait alcoolique, un extrait aqueux et un extrait hydro-alcoolique. [Claim 3] A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said at least one vegetable gold extract is selected from an alcoholic extract, an aqueous extract and a hydroalcoholic extract.
[Revendication 4] Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, comprenant de 0,00001 à 10 % en poids dudit extrait d’or végétal par rapport au poids total de la composition. [Claim 4] A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, comprising from 0.00001 to 10% by weight of said vegetable gold extract relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Revendication 5] Composition selon l’une quelconque des revendications précédentes, ladite composition étant sous une forme choisie parmi un onguent, une crème, une huile, un lait, une pommade, une poudre, un tampon imbibé, une solution, un gel, un sérum, un baume, un beurre, une lotion, une suspension, un savon et une émulsion. [Claim 5] A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition being in a form selected from an ointment, a cream, an oil, a milk, an ointment, a powder, a soaked swab, a solution, a gel, a serum, a balm, a butter, a lotion, a suspension, a soap and an emulsion.
[Revendication 6] Dispositif se présentant sous une forme choisie parmi un pot, un flacon-pompe, une lingette, un masque, un dispositif transdermique, un patch, un spray, ledit dispositif comprenant une composition cosmétique ou dermatologique selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5. [Claim 6] Device provided in a form chosen from among a pot, a pump-dispenser, a wipe, a mask, a transdermal device, a patch, a spray, said device comprising a cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of the following. claims 1 to 5.
[Revendication 7] Procédé de soin cosmétique non-thérapeutique, [Claim 7] A non-therapeutic cosmetic care process,
comprenant l’application sur la peau ou les muqueuses d’une composition cosmétique selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5. comprising the application to the skin or the mucous membranes of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5.
[Revendication 8] Procédé selon la revendication 7, dans lequel le soin est au moins un effet choisi parmi l’homogénéisation de la couleur de la peau, l’amélioration du teint, la diminution des tâches pigmentées de la peau, la régénération de la peau, l’amélioration de l’éclat de la peau, l’amélioration du lissage, l’augmentation de la douceur de la peau, l’amélioration de l’aspect général de la peau, l’amélioration de l’hydratation et l’amélioration de la nutrition de la peau et/ou des muqueuses. [Claim 8] The method of claim 7, wherein the care is at least one effect chosen from homogenization of the color of the skin, improvement of the complexion, reduction of pigmented spots on the skin, regeneration of the skin tone. skin, improving skin radiance, improving smoothing, increasing the smoothness of the skin, improving the general appearance of the skin, improving hydration and improving the nutrition of the skin and / or mucous membranes.
[Revendication 9] Utilisation d’un extrait d’or végétal ( Syngonanthus nitens Ruhland) en tant qu’actif cosmétique. [Claim 9] Use of a plant gold extract (Syngonanthus nitens Ruhland) as a cosmetic active.
[Revendication 10] Utilisation selon la revendication 9, en tant qu’actif [Claim 10] Use according to claim 9, as an active
cosmétique anti-âge. anti-aging cosmetic.
PCT/EP2020/064426 2019-06-14 2020-05-25 Cosmetic use of an extract of golden grass (syngonanthus nitens ruhland) WO2020249382A1 (en)

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FR1906350A FR3097128B1 (en) 2019-06-14 2019-06-14 Cosmetic use of a vegetable gold extract (SYNGONANTHUS NITENS Ruhland)

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Citations (3)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20040088769A1 (en) * 2001-06-18 2004-05-06 Corn. Bak B.V. Syngonanthus chrysanthus plant named 'Mikado'
EP3272344A1 (en) * 2015-02-04 2018-01-24 Vitalgaia España, S.L. Synergistic composition comprising propolis and carnosic acid for use in the prevention and treatment of candidiasis
EP3278798A1 (en) * 2016-08-01 2018-02-07 Vitalgaia España, S.L. Synergistic composition comprising propolis and carnosic acid for use thereof in treating and preventing infections caused by species of the cryptococcus neoformans fungus

Patent Citations (3)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20040088769A1 (en) * 2001-06-18 2004-05-06 Corn. Bak B.V. Syngonanthus chrysanthus plant named 'Mikado'
EP3272344A1 (en) * 2015-02-04 2018-01-24 Vitalgaia España, S.L. Synergistic composition comprising propolis and carnosic acid for use in the prevention and treatment of candidiasis
EP3278798A1 (en) * 2016-08-01 2018-02-07 Vitalgaia España, S.L. Synergistic composition comprising propolis and carnosic acid for use thereof in treating and preventing infections caused by species of the cryptococcus neoformans fungus

Non-Patent Citations (3)

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Title
BERLIM LEONARDO SCHNEIDER ET AL: "Photophysical properties of flavonoids extracted fromSyngonanthus nitens, the golden grass", JOURNAL OF LUMINESCENCE, vol. 194, 21 October 2017 (2017-10-21), pages 394 - 400, XP085262907, ISSN: 0022-2313, DOI: 10.1016/J.JLUMIN.2017.10.040 *
FELIPE HILÂRIO, ESTUDO QUIMICO E AVALIACAO DA ATIVIDADE ANTIOXIDANTE E ANTIMICROBIANA DOS ESCAPOS DE SYNGONANTHUS NITENS (BONG.) RUHLAND. (ERIOCAULACEA, 2012
MARCELO GONZAGA ET AL.: "Evaluation of Syngonanthus nitens (Bong.) Ruhl. Extract as antifungal and in the treatment of vulvovaginal candidiasis", MEDICAL MYCOLOGY, vol. 51, October 2013 (2013-10-01), pages 673 - 682

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