WO2023089288A1 - Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprising at least one extract of cylindrotheca fusiformis and at least one extract of dunaliella salina, and cosmetic uses thereof - Google Patents

Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprising at least one extract of cylindrotheca fusiformis and at least one extract of dunaliella salina, and cosmetic uses thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023089288A1
WO2023089288A1 PCT/FR2022/052132 FR2022052132W WO2023089288A1 WO 2023089288 A1 WO2023089288 A1 WO 2023089288A1 FR 2022052132 W FR2022052132 W FR 2022052132W WO 2023089288 A1 WO2023089288 A1 WO 2023089288A1
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Prior art keywords
skin
cosmetic
extract
composition
mucous membranes
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PCT/FR2022/052132
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French (fr)
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Florence CASSIN
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Blue Lab
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9706—Algae
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0208—Tissues; Wipes; Patches
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprising at least one extract of Cylindrotheca fusiformis and at least one extract of Dunaliella Salina, as well as to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the cosmetic composition, and to a cosmetic process not therapy using the cosmetic composition and a device comprising it.
  • the present invention finds an application in the field of cosmetics and dermatology, more particularly skin cosmetics.
  • the skin is a vital organ in its own right that is made up of three distinct tissues, each performing different roles thanks to different cell types and different structures.
  • This pluristratified (Malpighian) and keratinized epithelium is made up of different cells associated with numerous barrier and protective functions. The majority cells are keratinocytes, which divide in the basal layer and begin their differentiation as far as the stratum corneum (outermost layer), then are eliminated by desquamation, in 21 to 28 days, on average.
  • the major role of the epidermis is to provide the skin, and therefore the human body, with a first line of protection against external aggressions, such as physical, chemical, water and bacteriological. This protection is notably ensured by the most differentiated layers and the stratum corneum, known for its hydrophobic properties, its compact and waterproof appearance.
  • the dermis is a connective tissue invested mainly with fibroblasts and matrix proteins, giving the skin its known qualities of compressibility and elasticity. Changes in its texture and composition are largely responsible for the skin changes that occur during aging. The relief of the stratum corneum is, moreover, directly conditioned by the quality and density of the dermis which underlies it. More than the epidermis, whose renewal is rapid and constant, the dermis undergoes major age-related disorders, through the aging of its cells and its material. As they age and following environmental attacks, fibroblasts are less and less reactive and less and less proliferative. Syntheses of matrix macromolecules are no longer ensured by fibroblasts.
  • these constituent macro-molecules of the dermis such as collagen fibers, elastic fibers, proteoglycans and glycosaminoglycans (hyaluronic acid in particular) tend to degenerate and fragment.
  • These phenomena of alteration of the dermal tissue cause on the surface a defect in the organization of the epidermis and, in a more visible and more direct way, a loss of firmness which can go as far as cutaneous ptosis and/or the formation of wrinkles.
  • connective tissue other cells and structures are also inserted, such as an important circulatory and nutritive network, made up of blood vessels and lymphatic capillaries, as well as the epidermal appendages: hair, hairs, nails, pilosebaceous glands and sweat glands, which originate in the deep dermis.
  • an important circulatory and nutritive network made up of blood vessels and lymphatic capillaries, as well as the epidermal appendages: hair, hairs, nails, pilosebaceous glands and sweat glands, which originate in the deep dermis.
  • cell function slows down and the endothelial cells that make up the vessels are less joined and less functional, leading to defects in irrigation and nutrition of the integument and its annexes (glands or hair).
  • hypodermis located in depth and mainly made up of fatty lobules (adipocytes), provides a primary support function, mechanical and thermal protection, and also plays a role in storing energy reserves that can be quickly mobilized for all biological needs, such as cell renewal, the body's defense or muscle contraction.
  • adipocytes fatty lobules
  • the surface appearance of the skin is conditioned by all these tissues.
  • the keratinocytes divide (via mitoses) in the basal layer and begin their differentiation up to the stratum corneum then desquamation (i.e. their elimination by detachment), in 21 to 28 days , on average.
  • a good metabolism of keratinocytes is essential for a smooth, homogeneous and regular surface.
  • Deeper in the dermis is the endothelial network which irrigates the entire cutaneous structure thanks to blood circulation, bringing water, nutrients and oxygen. This mechanism depends directly on the good physiological state of the body, it also allows to give its vital color to the skin (rosy complexion).
  • the aging process is a generalized process following advancing age (intrinsic aging) or the accumulation of effects due to repeated environmental aggressions (extrinsic aging).
  • intrasic aging or the accumulation of effects due to repeated environmental aggressions (extrinsic aging).
  • exasic aging For the cosmetics market, it is therefore appropriate to biologically stimulate one or more mechanisms involved in the aesthetic appearance of the skin in direct or indirect connection with hydration, nutrition, radiance, protection of the skin.
  • vitamin C is well known and proven. Like other vitamins, it is usually present in anti-aging products. Even of natural origin, this compound is very unstable, and therefore requires the addition of preservatives or the use of unnatural derivatives, which are not very popular with consumers.
  • retinoic acid derivatives are known to stimulate keratinocyte renewal, but weaken the barrier function resulting from keratinocyte differentiation and have no effect on cell detoxification, or even cause inflammatory reactions.
  • the object of the present invention is precisely to meet these needs and drawbacks of the prior art.
  • the inventors are the very first to combine an extract of Cylindrotheca fusiformis and an extract of Dunaliella Salina, precisely making it possible to respond effectively to the aforementioned needs.
  • the inventors of the present invention have demonstrated properties of the combination which had never been described or suggested in the prior art. Indeed, surprisingly, the inventors have demonstrated that the combination of Cylindrotheca fusiformis and Dunaliella Salina extracts has a cosmetic action.
  • the inventors have in particular demonstrated an effect of the combination of extracts of Cylindrotheca fusiformis and Dunaliella Salina on improving the appearance and surface qualities of the skin, in particular for hydration, anti- age, soothing and helping to prevent and fight against the effects of pollution.
  • the inventors have also demonstrated a synergy of the extracts of Cylindrotheca fusiformis, of Dunaliella Salina and of Tetraselmis Suecica for the cosmetic effects mentioned.
  • a first object of the invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition
  • a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising at least one extract of Cylindrotheca fusiformis and at least one extract of Dunaliella Salina.
  • composition of the invention may also comprise at least one extract of Tetraselmis Suecica.
  • Dunaliella salina is a halophilic green microalga, belonging to the class of Chlorophytes, which develops spontaneously and preferentially in very saline lagoon environments.
  • Cylindrotheca fusiformis is a marine diatom living in intertidal environments.
  • Tetraselmis suecica is a halophilic green microalga, belonging to the class of Chlorodendrophytes.
  • the Cylindrotheca fusiformis, Dunaliella Salina and Tetraselmis Suecica microalgae can be obtained by any method known to those skilled in the art, for example by culture and extraction of microalgae using a photobioreactor, according to a totally sustainable process.
  • the culture of the algae can for example be carried out in an appropriate medium, for the time necessary to reach a concentration of microalgae of between 50,000 and 1,000,000 cells per ml.
  • the culture is for example then centrifuged to harvest the microalgae.
  • the microalgae paste obtained can be modified by bursting the microalgae cells, then eliminating the membrane debris by any appropriate separation technique, such as centrifugation and/or filtration, and/or by the action of a solvent in order to obtain an enrichment into certain constituents of the seaweed at the same time as the elimination of unnecessary or undesirable constituents in the intended application.
  • the extracts are liquid extracts of microalgae preferably obtained after culturing the microalgae, centrifugation and grinding of the pellet. These extracts can be water-soluble and/or fat-soluble.
  • cosmetic composition in the present invention, means any composition for cosmetic purposes, that is to say aesthetic, which can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body, for example the epidermis, the hair and capillary systems. , external organs, teeth and external mucous membranes.
  • a cosmetic composition makes it possible, exclusively or mainly, to protect them, perfume them, maintain them in good condition, modify their appearance or correct their superficial defects.
  • a cosmetic composition can comprise a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.
  • the term "dermatological composition” means any composition for dermatological purposes, that is to say a composition that can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body, for treatment of the skin, mucous membranes and appendages, for example nails, hair, and/or body hair.
  • a dermatological composition can comprise a dermatologically acceptable vehicle.
  • cosmetically and/or dermatologically acceptable vehicle is meant a vehicle suitable for use in contact with human skin cells, in particular cells of the epidermis, without toxicity, irritation, undue allergic response and the like, and proportionate to a benefit/risk ratio reasonable.
  • the cosmetically and/or dermatologically acceptable vehicle can be chosen from water, allantoin, glycerin, methylpropanediol, this list not being limiting.
  • the composition of the invention may comprise a percentage by weight of at least one extract of Cylindrotheca fusiformis allowing the cosmetic effects mentioned above to be obtained.
  • the percentage by weight of the Cylindrotheca fusiformis extract can be between 0.0001 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It can be for example from 0.01 to 5%, or from 0.01 to 3%, or from 0.01 to 2%, or from 0.01 to 1%, or from 0.1 to 3% , or from 0.1 to 1%, or from 0.05 to 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the invention may comprise a percentage by weight of at least one extract of Dunaliella Salina allowing the cosmetic effects mentioned above to be obtained.
  • the percentage by weight of the Dunaliella Salina extract can be between 0.0001 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It can be for example from 0.01 to 5%, or from 0.01 to 3%, or from 0.01 to 2%, or from 0.01 to 1%, or from 0.1 to 3% , or from 0.1 to 1%, or from 0.05 to 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the invention may comprise a percentage by weight of at least one extract of Tetraselmis Suecica allowing the cosmetic effects mentioned above to be obtained.
  • the percentage by weight of the Tetraselmis Suecica extract can be between 0.0001 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It can be for example from 0.01 to 5%, or from 0.01 to 3%, or from 0.01 to 2%, or from 0.01 to 1%, or from 0.1 to 3% , or from 0.1 to 1%, or from 0.05 to 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention may for example be a combination comprising the two microalgae Cylindrotheca fusiformis and Dunaliella Salina, in a ratio of between 0.1 and 5.0, for example between 0.2 and 4, or between 0 5 and 2.
  • the extracts of Cylindrotheca fusiformis and of Dunaliella Salina can be present with a ratio of 1.0 (that is to say one unit of Cylindrotheca fusiformis for one unit of Dunaliella Salina).
  • the composition of the invention may comprise approximately 0.01% by weight of each of these microalgae.
  • the cosmetic of the invention can for example be a combination comprising the three microalgae which are Cylindrotheca fusiformis, Dunaliella Salina and Tetraselmis Suecica, in a ratio (between the extract of Cylindrotheca fusiformis or of Dunaliella Salina and the extract of Tetraselmis Suecica) between 0.1 and 5.0, for example between 0.2 and 4, or between 0.5 and 2.
  • the extracts of Cylindrotheca fusiformis or of Dunaliella Salina and of Tetraselmis Suecica can be present with a ratio of 0.2 (i.e.
  • composition of the invention may comprise approximately 0.01% by weight of each of Cylindrotheca fusiformis and Dunaliella Salina microalgae and approximately 0.05% of Tetraselmis Suecica.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention can be obtained by any suitable process known to those skilled in the art for the manufacture of a cosmetic or dermatological composition. It can be, for example, a simple mixture. It may also be, for example, a process comprising a step of incorporating an internal phase into an external phase by means of an emulsifier, for example a turbine of the rotor-stator type. It may also be, for example, a process using the Phase Inversion Temperature (PIT), this process being conventionally used by those skilled in the art to obtain oil-in-water emulsions whose dispersed droplets are particularly fine, for example with a diameter of 0.1 to 1 ⁇ m.
  • PIT Phase Inversion Temperature
  • the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the present invention may be in any form suitable for cosmetic or dermatological application.
  • the composition is a composition for topical use.
  • the composition may in particular be in a form chosen from a cream, an ointment, an oil, a milk, an ointment, a solution, a powder, a gel, a serum, a balm, a butter, a lotion , a suspension, shampoo, soap or emulsion that can be rinsed out or left on.
  • the powder can be a loose powder or a compressed powder, for example in the form of granules, tablets, optionally to be diluted, or else in the form of a compact powder.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological composition may, for example, be in a form chosen from the group comprising an aqueous or hydroalcoholic gel, an aqueous or hydroalcoholic cream and an aqueous or hydroalcoholic lotion.
  • microalgae extracts of the present invention can be used in a cosmetic or dermatological composition alone or in combination with one or more other cosmetically or dermatologically active or inactive substances or ingredients.
  • Inactive substances or ingredients are those that do not act cosmetically or dermatologically. These are the elements of the composition allowing in particular to accompany the extract, to constitute a particular formulation, to preserve the active extract over time, etc. It may also be any basic product which may be found in conventional cosmetic or dermatological compositions.
  • active substances or ingredients are those which, in the targeted cosmetic or dermatological application, have an aesthetic and/or medical action. It may be, for example, at least one other extract chosen from the group comprising plant extracts, seaweed extracts and microalgae extracts other than those already mentioned above.
  • Another object of the invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a combination or of a cosmetic composition as defined above.
  • the non-therapeutic cosmetic use can have the effect of improving the hydration of the skin, of the scalp and/or of the mucous membranes, and/or of an anti-aging action on the skin, and/or of a fight against and/or prevention of the effects of pollution on the skin, the scalp and/or the mucous membranes and/or a soothing action on the sensitive and/or reactive skin and/or mucous membranes.
  • the cosmetic action aims in particular to improve the aesthetics of the skin. It is therefore a purely aesthetic action, to the exclusion of any therapeutic action, making it possible to improve the surface appearance of the skin, and/or its appendages and/or mucous membranes, in particular to present, ultimately, a more aesthetic, regular and/or homogeneous appearance.
  • the moisturizing action can be linked in whole or in part to an improvement in the protective barrier function of the skin, the scalp and/or the mucous membranes.
  • these actions/effects may be due in particular to an action on the differentiation of epidermal keratinocytes and/or to an increase in the expression of filaggrin by the keratinocytes.
  • the soothing action can be an attenuation of diffuse redness, and/or an improvement in the complexion and/or the texture of the skin and/or the luminosity of the skin, and/or a reduction in the sensations of tightness, tingling , diffuse heat, irritability.
  • these actions/effects may be due in particular to a reduction in the expression of proinflammatory mediators by epidermal keratinocytes.
  • the anti-aging action can be an action for preventing the visible effects of aging of the skin, in particular slackening and/or loss of firmness and/or loss of elasticity and/or the formation of wrinkles, preferably before the effects of aging are visible.
  • these actions/effects may be due in particular to an action of inhibiting the expression of matrix metalloproteases and/or an action of increasing the synthesis of hyaluronic acid.
  • the action of combating and/or preventing the effects of atmospheric pollution on the skin, the scalp and/or the mucous membranes can be at least one action chosen from among an improvement in the suppleness of the skin, the radiance of the skin, a decrease in skin desquamation.
  • these actions/effects may be due in particular to an anti- oxidative or decrease in the expression of pro-inflammatory mediators or inhibition of the expression of matrix metalloproteases.
  • the cosmetic composition can be used in a form chosen from a cream, an ointment, an oil, a milk, an ointment, a solution, a powder, a gel, a serum, a balm, a butter, lotion, suspension, shampoo, soap or emulsion that can be rinsed out or left on.
  • Another object of the invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care process for improving the appearance of the skin, comprising an application to the skin, the scalp and/or the mucous membranes of a cosmetic composition as described above.
  • the non-therapeutic cosmetic process of the invention is therefore a process for the aesthetic care of the surface of the skin.
  • the non-therapeutic cosmetic process can make it possible to improve the appearance of the skin, and/or to improve the hydration of the skin, the scalp and/or the mucous membranes, and/or can have an anti- age of the skin, and/or help fight and prevent the effects of pollution on the skin, scalp and/or mucous membranes.
  • the use means a non-therapeutic use, for example for the treatment of normal skin.
  • normal skin means skin not exhibiting a pathological condition.
  • any cosmetic use and any cosmetic process according to the invention are respectively non-therapeutic cosmetic uses and non-therapeutic cosmetic processes.
  • Another object of the invention relates to a device in a form chosen from a jar, a pump bottle, a wipe, a mask, a transdermal device, a patch, a spray, a capsule or a capsule, the device comprising a composition according to as defined above.
  • the unicellular algae Tetraselmis Suecica (prasinophyceae/chlorodendrales/chlorodendraces), Cylindrotheca fusiformis, Dunaliella Salina are cultivated in a seawater medium.
  • the culture is stopped and is then centrifuged to harvest the algae.
  • the seaweed paste obtained is then standardized by redispersion in the culture medium. This dispersion is modified by bursting the cells using an APV high-pressure homogenizer. A new centrifugation allows the elimination of membrane debris from the burst algae.
  • the cell homogenate, after APV, is taken up in seawater and stabilized (sorbate/benzoate/hydrochloric acid or citric acid).
  • Keratinocytes were seeded in 96-well plates and cultured in culture medium for 192 hours with renewal of the culture medium after 24 and 96 hours. The medium was then replaced with medium containing or not (control): (1) either a composition of Cylindrotheca fusiformis at 0.01% by weight, or a composition of Dunaliella Salina at 0.01% by weight, or a composition of Tetraselmis Suecica at 0.05% by weight, or
  • Cells were then rinsed with PBS solution, fixed and permeabilized.
  • the cells were labeled using a specific primary antibody (Anti-filaggrin).
  • the primary antibody was then revealed using an appropriate fluorescent secondary antibody (GAM-Alexa 488) and, in parallel, the cell nuclei were stained using Hoechst 33258 (bisbenzimide) solution.
  • the acquisition of the images (5 photos/well) was carried out with an INCell AnalyzerTM 2200 (GE Healthcare, x20 objective).
  • the labeling was quantified by measuring the fluorescence intensity and normalized with respect to the total number of cells (Integration of the numerical data with the Developer Toolbox 1.5, GE Healthcare software).
  • Keratinocytes were seeded in 24-well plates and cultured in culture medium for 24 hours. The medium was then replaced by medium containing or not (intoxicated control):
  • mQPA-OX.STRESS-64 a PCR chip dedicated to research and adapted to the 'screening' format (Marker qPCR array or 'mQPA ' designed by Bioalternatives) and targeting 64 genes selected for their importance in detoxification.
  • Fibroblasts were seeded in 96-well plates and cultured in culture medium for 24 hours. The medium was then replaced with assay medium containing or not containing (control) the compounds to be tested, the combinations or the reference (TGF-0, tested at 10 ng/ml) and the cells were incubated for 72 hours. At the end of the incubation, the culture supernatants were collected for the quantification of hyaluronic acid.
  • the hyaluronic acid released in the culture supernatants was assayed using a specific ELISA kit according to the supplier's instructions (R&D Systems, ref.
  • Example 5 example of cream-type facial care composition
  • Example 6 example of cream-type facial care composition
  • Example 7 example of serum-type facial care composition
  • Example 8 example of serum type facial care composition

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprising at least one extract of Cylindrotheca fusiformis and at least one extract of Dunaliella Salina, and optionally at least one extract of Tetraselmis Suecica. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention. The present invention further relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method, for improving the appearance of the skin, and/or for improving the hydration of the skin, scalp and/or mucous membranes, and/or for preventing aging of the skin, and/or for combating and preventing the effects of pollution on the skin, scalp and/or mucous membranes, which method comprises applying a cosmetic composition to the skin, scalp and/or mucous membranes. The present invention also relates to a device provided in a form selected from a pot, a pump bottle, a wipe, a mask, a transdermal device, a patch, or a spray, said device comprising a composition according to the invention.

Description

Description Description
Titre de l'invention : COMPOSITION COSMÉTIQUE ET/OU DERMATOLOGIQUE COMPRENANT AU MOINS UNTitle of the invention: COSMETIC AND/OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE
EXTRAIT DE CYLINDROTHECA FUSIFORMIS ET AU MOINS UN EXTRAIT DE DUNALIELLA SAUNA, ET SES UTILISATIONS COSMÉTIQUES EXTRACT OF CYLINDROTHECA FUSIFORMIS AND AT LEAST ONE EXTRACT OF DUNALIELLA SAUNA, AND COSMETIC USES THEREOF
Domaine technique Technical area
La présente invention se rapporte à une composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique comprenant au moins un extrait de Cylindrotheca fusiformis et au moins un extrait de Dunaliella Salina, ainsi qu’à une utilisation cosmétique non thérapeutique de la composition cosmétique, et à un procédé cosmétique non thérapeutique mettant en œuvre la composition cosmétique et un dispositif la comprenant. The present invention relates to a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprising at least one extract of Cylindrotheca fusiformis and at least one extract of Dunaliella Salina, as well as to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the cosmetic composition, and to a cosmetic process not therapy using the cosmetic composition and a device comprising it.
La présente invention trouve une application dans le domaine de la cosmétique et de la dermatologie, plus particulièrement de la cosmétique cutanée. The present invention finds an application in the field of cosmetics and dermatology, more particularly skin cosmetics.
Etat de la technique State of the art
La peau est un organe vital à part entière qui se compose de trois tissus distincts, assumant chacun différents rôles grâce à différents types cellulaires et différentes structures. The skin is a vital organ in its own right that is made up of three distinct tissues, each performing different roles thanks to different cell types and different structures.
Le tissu le plus en surface, et donc le plus exposé, est l'épiderme. Cet épithélium pluristratifié (Malpighien) et kératinisé, se compose de différentes cellules associées à de nombreuses fonctions de barrière et de protection. Les cellules majoritaires sont les kératinocytes, qui se divisent dans la couche basale et entament leur différenciation jusqu’à la couche cornée (couche la plus externe), puis sont éliminés par desquamation, en 21 à 28 jours, en moyenne. Le rôle majeur de l'épiderme est d'apporter à la peau, et donc au corps humain, une première ligne de protection contre les agressions extérieures, comme les agressions physiques, chimiques, hydriques et bactériologiques. Cette protection est notamment assurée par les couches les plus différenciées et la couche cornée, connue pour ses propriétés hydrophobes, son aspect compacte et étanche. Une bonne différenciation et donc une bonne desquamation sont essentielles pour une surface lisse, homogène et régulière. L’ensemble de ces mécanismes dépend directement des capacités prolifératives des kératinocytes. Or, les stress extérieurs et l’âge altèrent les kératinocytes et ralentissent ce processus qui peut alors devenir plus long et plus irrégulier. La desquamation devenant irrégulière et/ou anarchique, des défauts de lissage et d’homogénéité de surface de la peau s’installent. The most surface tissue, and therefore the most exposed, is the epidermis. This pluristratified (Malpighian) and keratinized epithelium is made up of different cells associated with numerous barrier and protective functions. The majority cells are keratinocytes, which divide in the basal layer and begin their differentiation as far as the stratum corneum (outermost layer), then are eliminated by desquamation, in 21 to 28 days, on average. The major role of the epidermis is to provide the skin, and therefore the human body, with a first line of protection against external aggressions, such as physical, chemical, water and bacteriological. This protection is notably ensured by the most differentiated layers and the stratum corneum, known for its hydrophobic properties, its compact and waterproof appearance. Good differentiation and therefore good desquamation are essential for a smooth, homogeneous and regular surface. All of these mechanisms depend directly on the proliferative capacities of keratinocytes. However, external stresses and age alter the keratinocytes and slow down this process, which can then become longer and more irregular. As desquamation becomes irregular and/or anarchic, defects in smoothness and surface homogeneity of the skin set in.
En position intermédiaire, le derme est un tissu conjonctif investi majoritairement de fibroblastes et de protéines matricielles, donnant à la peau ses qualités de compressibilité et d'élasticité connues. Les modifications de sa texture et de sa composition sont largement responsables des altérations de la peau qui surviennent au cours du vieillissement. Le relief de la couche cornée est, par ailleurs, directement conditionné par la qualité et la densité du derme qui la sous-tend. Plus que l'épiderme, dont le renouvellement est rapide et constant, le derme subit des troubles importants liés à l'âge, par le vieillissement de ses cellules et de sa matière. En vieillissant et suite aux agressions environnementales, les fibroblastes sont de moins en moins réactifs et de moins en moins prolifératifs. Les synthèses des macromolécules de la matrice ne sont plus assurées par les fibroblastes. De plus, ces macro-molécules constitutives du derme telles que les fibres de collagène, les fibres élastiques, les protéoglycanes et les glycosaminoglycanes (acide hyaluronique notamment) ont tendance à dégénérer et à se fragmenter. Ces phénomènes d'altération du tissu dermique provoquent en surface un défaut d'organisation de l'épiderme et, d'une façon plus visible et plus directe, une perte de fermeté pouvant aller jusqu'à la ptose cutanée et/ou la formation de rides. In an intermediate position, the dermis is a connective tissue invested mainly with fibroblasts and matrix proteins, giving the skin its known qualities of compressibility and elasticity. Changes in its texture and composition are largely responsible for the skin changes that occur during aging. The relief of the stratum corneum is, moreover, directly conditioned by the quality and density of the dermis which underlies it. More than the epidermis, whose renewal is rapid and constant, the dermis undergoes major age-related disorders, through the aging of its cells and its material. As they age and following environmental attacks, fibroblasts are less and less reactive and less and less proliferative. Syntheses of matrix macromolecules are no longer ensured by fibroblasts. In addition, these constituent macro-molecules of the dermis such as collagen fibers, elastic fibers, proteoglycans and glycosaminoglycans (hyaluronic acid in particular) tend to degenerate and fragment. These phenomena of alteration of the dermal tissue cause on the surface a defect in the organization of the epidermis and, in a more visible and more direct way, a loss of firmness which can go as far as cutaneous ptosis and/or the formation of wrinkles.
Au sein de la trame conjonctive, s'intercalent aussi d’autres cellules et structures, tel un important réseau circulatoire et nutritif, constitué des vaisseaux sanguins et des capillaires lymphatiques, ainsi que les annexes épidermiques : cheveux, poils, ongles, glandes pilosébacées et glandes sudoripares, qui prennent naissance dans le derme profond. Comme précédemment avec l’âge et les agressions environnementales, le fonctionnement cellulaire ralentit et les cellules endothéliales constitutives des vaisseaux sont moins jointives et moins fonctionnelles, entraînant des défauts d’irrigation et de nutrition du tégument et de ses annexes (glandes ou cheveux). Within the connective tissue, other cells and structures are also inserted, such as an important circulatory and nutritive network, made up of blood vessels and lymphatic capillaries, as well as the epidermal appendages: hair, hairs, nails, pilosebaceous glands and sweat glands, which originate in the deep dermis. As before with age and environmental attacks, cell function slows down and the endothelial cells that make up the vessels are less joined and less functional, leading to defects in irrigation and nutrition of the integument and its annexes (glands or hair).
L'hypoderme, situé en profondeur et constitué en majeure partie de lobules graisseux (adipocytes), assure une fonction de support primaire, de protection mécanique et thermique, et joue aussi un rôle de stockage des réserves énergétiques rapidement mobilisables pour tous les besoins biologiques, comme par exemple le renouvellement cellulaire, la défense de l’organisme ou la contraction musculaire. The hypodermis, located in depth and mainly made up of fatty lobules (adipocytes), provides a primary support function, mechanical and thermal protection, and also plays a role in storing energy reserves that can be quickly mobilized for all biological needs, such as cell renewal, the body's defense or muscle contraction.
L’aspect de surface de la peau est conditionné par tous ces tissus. Dans l’épiderme, les kératinocytes se divisent (via les mitoses) dans la couche basale et entament leur différenciation jusqu’à la couche cornée puis la desquamation (c’est-à-dire leur élimination par détachement), en 21 à 28 jours, en moyenne. Un bon métabolisme des kératinocytes est essentiel pour une surface lisse, homogène et régulière. Plus en profondeur dans le derme se situe le réseau endothélial qui permet d’irriguer tout l’édifice cutané grâce à la circulation sanguine, apportant eau, nutriments et oxygène. Ce mécanisme dépend directement du bon état physiologique de l’organisme, il permet aussi de donner sa couleur vitale à la peau (teint rosé). Or, les stress extérieurs, le tabac, les UV ralentissent ce processus qui peut alors devenir plus irrégulier et endommagé : tout le réseau composé de cellules endothéliales souffre et s’altère induisant une malnutrition, déshydratation et hypoxie. En complément, la desquamation devient irrégulière et/ou anarchique. Des défauts de lissage et d’homogénéité de surface de la peau, un teint plus hétérogène ou plus jaunâtre, une déshydratation ou une sécheresse s’installent. The surface appearance of the skin is conditioned by all these tissues. In the epidermis, the keratinocytes divide (via mitoses) in the basal layer and begin their differentiation up to the stratum corneum then desquamation (i.e. their elimination by detachment), in 21 to 28 days , on average. A good metabolism of keratinocytes is essential for a smooth, homogeneous and regular surface. Deeper in the dermis is the endothelial network which irrigates the entire cutaneous structure thanks to blood circulation, bringing water, nutrients and oxygen. This mechanism depends directly on the good physiological state of the body, it also allows to give its vital color to the skin (rosy complexion). However, external stresses, tobacco, UV rays slow down this process, which can then become more irregular and damaged: the entire network composed of endothelial cells suffers and deteriorates, inducing malnutrition, dehydration and hypoxia. In addition, the desquamation becomes irregular and/or anarchic. Defects in smoothness and surface homogeneity of the skin, a more heterogeneous or more yellowish complexion, dehydration or dryness set in.
Ces mécanismes peuvent arriver de façon consécutive à des stress exogènes ou endogènes, et peuvent être complètement déconnectés de mécanismes liés à l’âge ; en revanche, ces derniers les accentuent. These mechanisms can occur consecutively to exogenous or endogenous stresses, and can be completely disconnected from age-related mechanisms; on the other hand, the latter accentuate them.
D’un point de vue général, le processus de vieillissement est un processus généralisé consécutif à l’avancement de l’âge (vieillissement intrinsèque) ou à l’accumulation des effets dus aux agressions environnementales répétées (vieillissement extrinsèque). Pour le marché cosmétique, il convient donc de stimuler de façon biologique un ou des mécanismes impliqués dans l’aspect esthétique de la peau en lien direct ou indirect avec l’hydratation, la nutrition, l’éclat, la protection de la peau. From a general point of view, the aging process is a generalized process following advancing age (intrinsic aging) or the accumulation of effects due to repeated environmental aggressions (extrinsic aging). For the cosmetics market, it is therefore appropriate to biologically stimulate one or more mechanisms involved in the aesthetic appearance of the skin in direct or indirect connection with hydration, nutrition, radiance, protection of the skin.
Le marché des produits cosmétiques est très important et les attentes des consommateurs/consommatrices sont très élevées. En termes d’anti-âge ou non, ils/elles s’orientent de plus en plus vers des produits efficaces, naturels et éco- conçus. The cosmetics market is very large and consumer expectations are very high. In terms of anti-aging or not, they are increasingly moving towards effective, natural and eco-designed products.
Par exemple, la vitamine C est très connue et a fait ses preuves. Comme les autres vitamines, elle est généralement présente dans les produits anti-âge. Même d’origine naturelle, ce composé est très instable, et nécessite donc l’ajout de conservateurs ou l’utilisation de dérivés non naturels, peu appréciés des consommateurs. For example, vitamin C is well known and proven. Like other vitamins, it is usually present in anti-aging products. Even of natural origin, this compound is very unstable, and therefore requires the addition of preservatives or the use of unnatural derivatives, which are not very popular with consumers.
De même, les dérivés d’acide rétinoïque sont connus pour stimuler le renouvellement des kératinocytes, mais fragilisent la fonction barrière issue de la différenciation des kératinocytes et ne jouent en rien sur la détoxification cellulaire, voire même, causent des réactions inflammatoires. Similarly, retinoic acid derivatives are known to stimulate keratinocyte renewal, but weaken the barrier function resulting from keratinocyte differentiation and have no effect on cell detoxification, or even cause inflammatory reactions.
De même, les réponses cosmétiques à la problématique de surface de la peau s’orientent fréquemment vers les alphahydroxyacides, comme les acides glycoliques par exemple, qui présentent une action immédiate due à leur effet desquamant. Toutefois ils peuvent entrainer des dégradations de l’épiderme et amplifier les dégâts induits les UV. De plus, il s’agit souvent d’une action limitée dans le temps qui peut occasionner un effet rebond. Similarly, cosmetic responses to the problem of the surface of the skin are frequently directed towards alpha-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic acids for example, which have an immediate action due to their desquamating effect. However, they can cause degradation of the epidermis and amplify the damage caused by UV rays. In addition, it is often a time-limited action that can cause a rebound effect.
Il reste donc un réel besoin de trouver de nouvelles compositions et/ou composés d’origine naturelle, permettant d’améliorer l’aspect et les qualités de surface de la peau, notamment pour des effets d’hydratation, anti-âge, apaisants et permettant de prévenir et lutter contre les effets de la pollution. There therefore remains a real need to find new compositions and/or compounds of natural origin, making it possible to improve the appearance and the surface qualities of the skin, in particular for hydration, anti-aging, soothing and preventing and combating the effects of pollution.
Description de l’invention Description of the invention
La présente invention a précisément pour but de répondre à ces besoins et inconvénients de l’art antérieur. Les inventeurs sont les tout premiers à associer un extrait de Cylindrotheca fusiformis et un extrait de Dunaliella Salina, permettant précisément de répondre efficacement aux besoins précités. The object of the present invention is precisely to meet these needs and drawbacks of the prior art. The inventors are the very first to combine an extract of Cylindrotheca fusiformis and an extract of Dunaliella Salina, precisely making it possible to respond effectively to the aforementioned needs.
Les inventeurs de la présente ont mis en évidence des propriétés de l’association qui n’avaient jamais été décrites ou suggérées dans l’art antérieur. En effet, de manière surprenante, les inventeurs ont mis en évidence que l’association des extraits de de Cylindrotheca fusiformis et de Dunaliella Salina possède une action cosmétique. The inventors of the present invention have demonstrated properties of the combination which had never been described or suggested in the prior art. Indeed, surprisingly, the inventors have demonstrated that the combination of Cylindrotheca fusiformis and Dunaliella Salina extracts has a cosmetic action.
Les inventeurs ont notamment mis en évidence un effet de l’association d’extraits de Cylindrotheca fusiformis et de Dunaliella Salina sur l’amélioration de l’aspect et des qualités de surface de la peau, notamment pour des effets d’hydratation, anti-âge, apaisants et permettant de prévenir et lutter contre les effets de la pollution. The inventors have in particular demonstrated an effect of the combination of extracts of Cylindrotheca fusiformis and Dunaliella Salina on improving the appearance and surface qualities of the skin, in particular for hydration, anti- age, soothing and helping to prevent and fight against the effects of pollution.
De manière surprenante, les inventeurs ont en outre mis en évidence une synergie des extraits de Cylindrotheca fusiformis et de Dunaliella Salina pour les effets cosmétiques mentionnés. Surprisingly, the inventors have also demonstrated a synergy of the extracts of Cylindrotheca fusiformis and of Dunaliella Salina for the cosmetic effects mentioned.
Les inventeurs ont également mis en évidence une synergie des extraits de Cylindrotheca fusiformis, de Dunaliella Salina et de Tetraselmis Suecica pour les effets cosmétiques mentionnés. The inventors have also demonstrated a synergy of the extracts of Cylindrotheca fusiformis, of Dunaliella Salina and of Tetraselmis Suecica for the cosmetic effects mentioned.
Ainsi, un premier objet de l’invention se rapporte à une composition cosmétique ou dermatologique comprenant au moins un extrait de Cylindrotheca fusiformis et au moins un extrait de Dunaliella Salina. Thus, a first object of the invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising at least one extract of Cylindrotheca fusiformis and at least one extract of Dunaliella Salina.
Avantageusement, la composition de l’invention peut comprendre en outre au moins un extrait de Tetraselmis Suecica. Advantageously, the composition of the invention may also comprise at least one extract of Tetraselmis Suecica.
Dunaliella salina est une microalgue verte halophile, appartenant à la classe des Chlorophytes, qui se développe spontanément et préférentiellement dans les milieux lagunaires très salés. Dunaliella salina is a halophilic green microalga, belonging to the class of Chlorophytes, which develops spontaneously and preferentially in very saline lagoon environments.
Cylindrotheca fusiformis est une diatomée marine vivant dans les environnements intertidaux. Cylindrotheca fusiformis is a marine diatom living in intertidal environments.
Tetraselmis suecica est une microalgue verte halophile, appartenant à la classe des Chlorodendrophytes. Les microalgues Cylindrotheca fusiformis, Dunaliella Salina et Tetraselmis Suecica peuvent être obtenues par tout procédé connu de l’homme du métier, par exemple par culture et extraction de microalgues à l’aide d’une photobioréacteur, selon un processus totalement durable. La culture des algues peut par exemple être réalisée dans un milieu approprié, durant le temps nécessaire pour atteindre une concentration en microalgues comprise entre 50000 et 1000000 cellules par ml. La culture est par exemple ensuite centrifugée pour récolter les microalgues. La pâte de microalgues obtenue peut être modifiée par éclatement des cellules de microalgues, puis élimination des débris membranaires par toute technique séparative appropriée, comme la centrifugation et/ou la filtration, et/ou par action d'un solvant afin d'obtenir un enrichissement en certains constituants de l'algue en même temps que l'élimination de constituants inutiles ou indésirables dans l'application envisagée. De manière préférée selon l’invention, les extraits sont des extraits liquides de microalgues obtenus de préférence après culture des microalgues, centrifugation et broyage du culot. Ces extraits peuvent être hydrosolubles et/ou liposolubles. Tetraselmis suecica is a halophilic green microalga, belonging to the class of Chlorodendrophytes. The Cylindrotheca fusiformis, Dunaliella Salina and Tetraselmis Suecica microalgae can be obtained by any method known to those skilled in the art, for example by culture and extraction of microalgae using a photobioreactor, according to a totally sustainable process. The culture of the algae can for example be carried out in an appropriate medium, for the time necessary to reach a concentration of microalgae of between 50,000 and 1,000,000 cells per ml. The culture is for example then centrifuged to harvest the microalgae. The microalgae paste obtained can be modified by bursting the microalgae cells, then eliminating the membrane debris by any appropriate separation technique, such as centrifugation and/or filtration, and/or by the action of a solvent in order to obtain an enrichment into certain constituents of the seaweed at the same time as the elimination of unnecessary or undesirable constituents in the intended application. Preferably according to the invention, the extracts are liquid extracts of microalgae preferably obtained after culturing the microalgae, centrifugation and grinding of the pellet. These extracts can be water-soluble and/or fat-soluble.
On entend par « composition cosmétique », dans la présente invention, toute composition à visée cosmétique, c’est à dire esthétique, pouvant être mise en contact avec les parties superficielles du corps humain, par exemple l'épiderme, les systèmes pileux et capillaires, les organes externes, les dents et les muqueuses externes. Avantageusement, une composition cosmétique permet, exclusivement ou principalement, de les protéger, parfumer, maintenir en bon état, modifier leur aspect ou en corriger les défauts superficiels. Notamment, une composition cosmétique peut comprendre un véhicule cosmétiquement acceptable. The term "cosmetic composition", in the present invention, means any composition for cosmetic purposes, that is to say aesthetic, which can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body, for example the epidermis, the hair and capillary systems. , external organs, teeth and external mucous membranes. Advantageously, a cosmetic composition makes it possible, exclusively or mainly, to protect them, perfume them, maintain them in good condition, modify their appearance or correct their superficial defects. In particular, a cosmetic composition can comprise a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.
Dans le cadre de la présente invention, on entend par « composition dermatologique » toute composition à visée dermatologique, c’est à dire une composition pouvant être mise en contact avec les parties superficielles du corps humain, pour un traitement de la peau, des muqueuses et des phanères, par exemple des ongles, des cheveux, et/ou des poils. Notamment, une composition dermatologique peut comprendre un véhicule dermatologiquement acceptable. In the context of the present invention, the term "dermatological composition" means any composition for dermatological purposes, that is to say a composition that can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body, for treatment of the skin, mucous membranes and appendages, for example nails, hair, and/or body hair. In particular, a dermatological composition can comprise a dermatologically acceptable vehicle.
Par « véhicule cosmétiquement et/ou dermatologiquement acceptable », on entend un véhicule adapté pour une utilisation en contact avec des cellules humaines cutanées, en particulier les cellules de l’épiderme, sans toxicité, irritation, réponse allergique indue et similaire, et proportionné à un rapport avantage/risque raisonnable. Le véhicule cosmétiquement et/ou dermatologiquement acceptable peut être choisi parmi l’eau, l’allantoïne, la glycérine, le méthylpropanediol, cette liste n’étant pas limitative. By "cosmetically and/or dermatologically acceptable vehicle" is meant a vehicle suitable for use in contact with human skin cells, in particular cells of the epidermis, without toxicity, irritation, undue allergic response and the like, and proportionate to a benefit/risk ratio reasonable. The cosmetically and/or dermatologically acceptable vehicle can be chosen from water, allantoin, glycerin, methylpropanediol, this list not being limiting.
La composition de l’invention peut comprendre un pourcentage en poids d’au moins un extrait de Cylindrotheca fusiformis permettant l’obtention des effets cosmétiques mentionnés ci-avant. De préférence, le pourcentage en poids de l’extrait de Cylindrotheca fusiformis peut être compris entre 0,0001 et 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Il peut s’agir par exemple de 0,01 à 5 %, ou de 0,01 à 3 %, ou de 0,01 à 2 %, ou de 0,01 à 1 %, ou de 0,1 à 3 %, ou de 0,1 à 1 %, ou de 0,05 à 5%, en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. The composition of the invention may comprise a percentage by weight of at least one extract of Cylindrotheca fusiformis allowing the cosmetic effects mentioned above to be obtained. Preferably, the percentage by weight of the Cylindrotheca fusiformis extract can be between 0.0001 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It can be for example from 0.01 to 5%, or from 0.01 to 3%, or from 0.01 to 2%, or from 0.01 to 1%, or from 0.1 to 3% , or from 0.1 to 1%, or from 0.05 to 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
La composition de l’invention peut comprendre un pourcentage en poids d’au moins un extrait de Dunaliella Salina permettant l’obtention des effets cosmétiques mentionnés ci-avant. De préférence, le pourcentage en poids de l’extrait de Dunaliella Salina peut être compris entre 0,0001 et 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Il peut s’agir par exemple de 0,01 à 5 %, ou de 0,01 à 3 %, ou de 0,01 à 2 %, ou de 0,01 à 1 %, ou de 0,1 à 3 %, ou de 0,1 à 1 %, ou de 0,05 à 5%, en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. The composition of the invention may comprise a percentage by weight of at least one extract of Dunaliella Salina allowing the cosmetic effects mentioned above to be obtained. Preferably, the percentage by weight of the Dunaliella Salina extract can be between 0.0001 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It can be for example from 0.01 to 5%, or from 0.01 to 3%, or from 0.01 to 2%, or from 0.01 to 1%, or from 0.1 to 3% , or from 0.1 to 1%, or from 0.05 to 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Le cas échéant, la composition de l’invention peut comprendre un pourcentage en poids d’au moins un extrait de Tetraselmis Suecica permettant l’obtention des effets cosmétiques mentionnés ci-avant. De préférence, le pourcentage en poids de l’extrait de Tetraselmis Suecica peut être compris entre 0,0001 et 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Il peut s’agir par exemple de 0,01 à 5 %, ou de 0,01 à 3 %, ou de 0,01 à 2 %, ou de 0,01 à 1 %, ou de 0,1 à 3 %, ou de 0,1 à 1 %, ou de 0,05 à 5%, en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Where appropriate, the composition of the invention may comprise a percentage by weight of at least one extract of Tetraselmis Suecica allowing the cosmetic effects mentioned above to be obtained. Preferably, the percentage by weight of the Tetraselmis Suecica extract can be between 0.0001 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It can be for example from 0.01 to 5%, or from 0.01 to 3%, or from 0.01 to 2%, or from 0.01 to 1%, or from 0.1 to 3% , or from 0.1 to 1%, or from 0.05 to 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
La composition cosmétique de l’invention peut par exemple être une association comprenant les deux microalgues que sont Cylindrotheca fusiformis et Dunaliella Salina, dans un rapport compris entre 0,1 et 5,0, par exemple entre 0,2 et 4, ou entre 0,5 et 2. De manière avantageuse, les extraits de Cylindrotheca fusiformis et de Dunaliella Salina peuvent être présents avec un rapport de 1 ,0 (c’est-à-dire une unité de Cylindrotheca fusiformis pour une unité de Dunaliella Salina). Par exemple, la composition de l’invention peut comprendre environ 0,01 % en poids de chacune de ces microalgues. Alternativement, la cosmétique de l’invention peut par exemple être une association comprenant les trois microalgues que sont Cylindrotheca fusiformis, Dunaliella Salina et Tetraselmis Suecica, dans un rapport (entre l’extrait de Cylindrotheca fusiformis ou de Dunaliella Salina et l’extrait de Tetraselmis Suecica) compris entre 0,1 et 5,0, par exemple entre 0,2 et 4, ou entre 0,5 et 2. De manière avantageuse, les extraits de Cylindrotheca fusiformis ou de Dunaliella Salina et de Tetraselmis Suecica peuvent être présents avec un rapport de 0,2 (c’est-à-dire une unité de Cylindrotheca fusiformis ou de Dunaliella Salina pour cinq unités de Tetraselmis Suecica). Par exemple, la composition de l’invention peut comprendre environ 0,01 % en poids de chacune des microalgues Cylindrotheca fusiformis et Dunaliella Salina et environ 0,05% de Tetraselmis Suecica. The cosmetic composition of the invention may for example be a combination comprising the two microalgae Cylindrotheca fusiformis and Dunaliella Salina, in a ratio of between 0.1 and 5.0, for example between 0.2 and 4, or between 0 5 and 2. Advantageously, the extracts of Cylindrotheca fusiformis and of Dunaliella Salina can be present with a ratio of 1.0 (that is to say one unit of Cylindrotheca fusiformis for one unit of Dunaliella Salina). For example, the composition of the invention may comprise approximately 0.01% by weight of each of these microalgae. Alternatively, the cosmetic of the invention can for example be a combination comprising the three microalgae which are Cylindrotheca fusiformis, Dunaliella Salina and Tetraselmis Suecica, in a ratio (between the extract of Cylindrotheca fusiformis or of Dunaliella Salina and the extract of Tetraselmis Suecica) between 0.1 and 5.0, for example between 0.2 and 4, or between 0.5 and 2. Advantageously, the extracts of Cylindrotheca fusiformis or of Dunaliella Salina and of Tetraselmis Suecica can be present with a ratio of 0.2 (i.e. one unit of Cylindrotheca fusiformis or Dunaliella Salina to five units of Tetraselmis Suecica). For example, the composition of the invention may comprise approximately 0.01% by weight of each of Cylindrotheca fusiformis and Dunaliella Salina microalgae and approximately 0.05% of Tetraselmis Suecica.
La composition cosmétique ou dermatologique de l’invention peut être obtenue par tout procédé approprié connu de l’homme du métier pour la fabrication d’une composition cosmétique ou dermatologique. Il peut s’agir, par exemple d’un simple mélange. Il peut s’agir également, par exemple, d’un procédé comprenant une étape d’incorporation d’une phase interne dans une phase externe au moyen d'un émulseur, par exemple d'une turbine de type rotor-stator. Il peut s’agir également par exemple d’un procédé utilisant la Température d'inversion de Phase (TIP), ce procédé étant classiquement utilisé par l'homme de l'art pour obtenir des émulsions huile dans eau dont les gouttelettes dispersées sont particulièrement fines, par exemple avec un diamètre de 0,1 à 1 pm. The cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention can be obtained by any suitable process known to those skilled in the art for the manufacture of a cosmetic or dermatological composition. It can be, for example, a simple mixture. It may also be, for example, a process comprising a step of incorporating an internal phase into an external phase by means of an emulsifier, for example a turbine of the rotor-stator type. It may also be, for example, a process using the Phase Inversion Temperature (PIT), this process being conventionally used by those skilled in the art to obtain oil-in-water emulsions whose dispersed droplets are particularly fine, for example with a diameter of 0.1 to 1 µm.
La composition cosmétique ou dermatologique de la présente invention peut se trouver sous toute forme appropriée pour une application cosmétique ou dermatologique. Avantageusement, la composition est une composition à usage topique. The cosmetic or dermatological composition of the present invention may be in any form suitable for cosmetic or dermatological application. Advantageously, the composition is a composition for topical use.
Il peut s’agir par exemple d’une composition sous une forme choisie dans le groupe comprenant une émulsion huile dans eau, ou eau dans huile, ou un mélange de ces émulsions. It may be, for example, a composition in a form chosen from the group comprising an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, or a mixture of these emulsions.
Selon l’invention, la composition peut notamment être sous une forme choisie parmi une crème, un onguent, une huile, un lait, une pommade, une solution, une poudre, un gel, un sérum, un baume, un beurre, une lotion, une suspension, un shampooing, un savon ou une émulsion qui peut être rincée ou non rincée. Par exemple, la poudre peut être une poudre libre ou une poudre compressée, par exemple sous forme de granulés, de pastilles, éventuellement à diluer, ou encore sous la forme d’une poudre compacte. La composition cosmétique ou dermatologique peut par exemple se trouver sous une forme choisie dans le groupe comprenant un gel aqueux ou hydroalcoolique, une crème aqueuse ou hydroalcoolique et une lotion aqueuse ou hydroalcoolique. Ces formulations utilisables pour la mise en œuvre de la présente invention sont connues dans l’état de la technique par les formulateurs. Dans ces exemples de composition, il suffit d’ajouter l’association des huiles essentielles de la présente invention pour obtenir une composition conforme à la présente invention. According to the invention, the composition may in particular be in a form chosen from a cream, an ointment, an oil, a milk, an ointment, a solution, a powder, a gel, a serum, a balm, a butter, a lotion , a suspension, shampoo, soap or emulsion that can be rinsed out or left on. For example, the powder can be a loose powder or a compressed powder, for example in the form of granules, tablets, optionally to be diluted, or else in the form of a compact powder. The cosmetic or dermatological composition may, for example, be in a form chosen from the group comprising an aqueous or hydroalcoholic gel, an aqueous or hydroalcoholic cream and an aqueous or hydroalcoholic lotion. These formulations which can be used for the implementation of the present invention are known in the state of the art by the formulators. In these composition examples, it suffices to add the combination of essential oils of the present invention to obtain a composition in accordance with the present invention.
L’association d’extraits de microalgues de la présente invention peut être utilisée dans une composition cosmétique ou dermatologique seule ou en combinaison avec une ou plusieurs autres substances ou ingrédients actifs ou inactifs cosmétiquement ou dermatologiquement. Les substances ou ingrédients inactifs sont ceux qui n’agissent pas cosmétiquement ou dermatologiquement. Il s’agit des éléments de la composition permettant notamment d’accompagner l’extrait, de constituer une formulation particulière, de conserver l’extrait actif dans le temps, etc. Il peut s’agir en outre de tout produit de base pouvant se trouver dans les compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques classiques. Par opposition, les substances ou ingrédients actifs sont ceux qui dans l’application cosmétique ou dermatologique visée ont une action esthétique et/ou médicale. Il peut s’agir par exemple d’au moins un autre extrait choisi dans le groupe comprenant les extraits de plantes, les extraits d’algues et les extraits de microalgues autres que ceux déjà cités précédemment.The combination of microalgae extracts of the present invention can be used in a cosmetic or dermatological composition alone or in combination with one or more other cosmetically or dermatologically active or inactive substances or ingredients. Inactive substances or ingredients are those that do not act cosmetically or dermatologically. These are the elements of the composition allowing in particular to accompany the extract, to constitute a particular formulation, to preserve the active extract over time, etc. It may also be any basic product which may be found in conventional cosmetic or dermatological compositions. In contrast, active substances or ingredients are those which, in the targeted cosmetic or dermatological application, have an aesthetic and/or medical action. It may be, for example, at least one other extract chosen from the group comprising plant extracts, seaweed extracts and microalgae extracts other than those already mentioned above.
Un autre objet de l’invention se rapporte à une utilisation cosmétique non- thérapeutique d’une association ou d’une composition cosmétique telle que définie ci- avant. Another object of the invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a combination or of a cosmetic composition as defined above.
Avantageusement, l’utilisation cosmétique non thérapeutique peut avoir pour effet une amélioration de l’hydratation de la peau, du cuir chevelu et/ou des muqueuses, et/ou une action anti-âge de la peau, et/ou une action de lutte et/ou de prévention des effets de la pollution sur la peau, du cuir chevelu et/ou des muqueuses et/ou une action apaisante de la peau et/ou des muqueuses sensibles et/ou réactives. On entend par « muqueuse », au sens de la présente invention, notamment les muqueuses externes comme les lèvres. Advantageously, the non-therapeutic cosmetic use can have the effect of improving the hydration of the skin, of the scalp and/or of the mucous membranes, and/or of an anti-aging action on the skin, and/or of a fight against and/or prevention of the effects of pollution on the skin, the scalp and/or the mucous membranes and/or a soothing action on the sensitive and/or reactive skin and/or mucous membranes. The term "mucous membrane", within the meaning of the present invention, in particular the external mucous membranes such as the lips.
L’action cosmétique vise notamment à améliorer l’esthétisme de la peau. Il s’agit donc d’une action purement esthétique, à l’exclusion de toute action thérapeutique, permettant d’améliorer l’aspect de surface de la peau, et/ou de ses annexes et/ou des muqueuses, notamment pour présenter, à terme, un aspect plus esthétique, régulier et/ou homogène. The cosmetic action aims in particular to improve the aesthetics of the skin. It is therefore a purely aesthetic action, to the exclusion of any therapeutic action, making it possible to improve the surface appearance of the skin, and/or its appendages and/or mucous membranes, in particular to present, ultimately, a more aesthetic, regular and/or homogeneous appearance.
Avantageusement, l’action d’hydratation peut être liée en totalité ou en partie à une amélioration de la fonction barrière protectrice de la peau, du cuir chevelu et/ou des muqueuses. Sans vouloir être lié par un mécanisme d’action, ces actions/effets peuvent être dus notamment à une action sur la différenciation des kératinocytes épidermiques et/ou à une augmentation de l’expression de la filaggrine par les kératinocytes. Advantageously, the moisturizing action can be linked in whole or in part to an improvement in the protective barrier function of the skin, the scalp and/or the mucous membranes. Without wishing to be linked by a mechanism of action, these actions/effects may be due in particular to an action on the differentiation of epidermal keratinocytes and/or to an increase in the expression of filaggrin by the keratinocytes.
Avantageusement, l’action apaisante peut être une atténuation des rougeurs diffuses, et/ou une amélioration du teint et/ou du grain de peau et /ou de la luminosité de la peau, et/ou une diminution des sensations de tiraillements, de picotements, de chaleur diffuse, d’irritabilité. Sans vouloir être lié par un mécanisme d’action, ces actions/effets peuvent être dus notamment à une diminution de l’expression de médiateurs proinflammatoires par les kératinocytes épidermiques. Advantageously, the soothing action can be an attenuation of diffuse redness, and/or an improvement in the complexion and/or the texture of the skin and/or the luminosity of the skin, and/or a reduction in the sensations of tightness, tingling , diffuse heat, irritability. Without wishing to be linked by a mechanism of action, these actions/effects may be due in particular to a reduction in the expression of proinflammatory mediators by epidermal keratinocytes.
Avantageusement, l’action anti-âge peut être une action de prévention des effets visibles du vieillissement de la peau, notamment le relâchement et/ou la perte de fermeté et/ou la perte d’élasticité et/ou la formation des rides, de préférence avant que les effets du vieillissement ne soient visibles. Sans vouloir être lié par un mécanisme d’action, ces actions/effets peuvent être dus notamment à une action d’inhibition de l’expression des matrix métalloprotéases et/ou une action d’augmentation de la synthèse d’acide hyaluronique. Advantageously, the anti-aging action can be an action for preventing the visible effects of aging of the skin, in particular slackening and/or loss of firmness and/or loss of elasticity and/or the formation of wrinkles, preferably before the effects of aging are visible. Without wishing to be bound by a mechanism of action, these actions/effects may be due in particular to an action of inhibiting the expression of matrix metalloproteases and/or an action of increasing the synthesis of hyaluronic acid.
Avantageusement, l’action de lutte et/ou de prévention des effets de la pollution atmosphérique sur la peau, le cuir chevelu et/ou les muqueuses peut être au moins une action choisie parmi une amélioration de la souplesse cutanée, de l’éclat de la peau, une diminution de la desquamation cutanée. Sans vouloir être lié par un mécanisme d’action, ces actions/effets peuvent être dus notamment à une action anti- oxydante ou de diminution de l’expression de médiateurs pro-inflammatoires ou d’inhibition de l’expression des matrix métalloprotéases. Advantageously, the action of combating and/or preventing the effects of atmospheric pollution on the skin, the scalp and/or the mucous membranes can be at least one action chosen from among an improvement in the suppleness of the skin, the radiance of the skin, a decrease in skin desquamation. Without wishing to be bound by a mechanism of action, these actions/effects may be due in particular to an anti- oxidative or decrease in the expression of pro-inflammatory mediators or inhibition of the expression of matrix metalloproteases.
Comme indiqué précédemment, l’utilisation de la composition cosmétique peut se faire sous une forme choisie parmi une crème, un onguent, une huile, un lait, une pommade, une solution, une poudre, un gel, un sérum, un baume, un beurre, une lotion, une suspension, un shampooing, un savon ou une émulsion qui peut être rincée ou non rincée. As indicated above, the cosmetic composition can be used in a form chosen from a cream, an ointment, an oil, a milk, an ointment, a solution, a powder, a gel, a serum, a balm, a butter, lotion, suspension, shampoo, soap or emulsion that can be rinsed out or left on.
Un autre objet de l’invention se rapporte à un procédé de soin cosmétique non thérapeutique pour améliorer l’aspect de la peau, comprenant une application sur la peau, le cuir chevelu et/ou les muqueuses d’une composition cosmétique telle que décrite précédemment. Le procédé cosmétique non thérapeutique de l’invention est donc un procédé de soin esthétique de la surface de la peau. Another object of the invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care process for improving the appearance of the skin, comprising an application to the skin, the scalp and/or the mucous membranes of a cosmetic composition as described above. . The non-therapeutic cosmetic process of the invention is therefore a process for the aesthetic care of the surface of the skin.
Avantageusement, le procédé cosmétique non thérapeutique peut permettre d’améliorer l’aspect de la peau, et/ou d’améliorer l’hydratation de la peau, du cuir chevelu et/ou des muqueuses, et/ou peut avoir une action anti-âge de la peau, et/ou permettre de lutter et prévenir les effets de la pollution sur la peau, le cuir chevelu et/ou les muqueuses. Advantageously, the non-therapeutic cosmetic process can make it possible to improve the appearance of the skin, and/or to improve the hydration of the skin, the scalp and/or the mucous membranes, and/or can have an anti- age of the skin, and/or help fight and prevent the effects of pollution on the skin, scalp and/or mucous membranes.
Dans le cadre des procédés cosmétiques selon l’invention, l’utilisation s’entend d’une utilisation non-thérapeutique, par exemple pour le traitement des peaux normales. Dans la présente, on entend par « peaux normales », des peaux ne présentant pas un état pathologique. In the context of the cosmetic processes according to the invention, the use means a non-therapeutic use, for example for the treatment of normal skin. In the present, the term "normal skin" means skin not exhibiting a pathological condition.
D’une manière générale, toute utilisation cosmétique et tout procédé cosmétique selon l’invention sont respectivement des utilisations cosmétiques non- thérapeutiques et procédés cosmétiques non-thérapeutiques. In general, any cosmetic use and any cosmetic process according to the invention are respectively non-therapeutic cosmetic uses and non-therapeutic cosmetic processes.
Un autre objet de l’invention se rapporte à un dispositif se présentant sous une forme choisie parmi un pot, un flacon-pompe, une lingette, un masque, un dispositif transdermique, un patch, un spray, une capsule ou une gélule, le dispositif comprenant une composition selon telle que définie ci-avant. Another object of the invention relates to a device in a form chosen from a jar, a pump bottle, a wipe, a mask, a transdermal device, a patch, a spray, a capsule or a capsule, the device comprising a composition according to as defined above.
D’autres avantages pourront encore apparaître à l’homme du métier à la lecture des exemples ci-dessous, donnés à titre illustratif. EXEMPLES Other advantages may also appear to those skilled in the art on reading the examples below, given by way of illustration. EXAMPLES
Exemple 1 : Préparation des extraits de Cylindrotheca fusiformis, Dunaliella Salina et Tetraselmis Suecica Example 1: Preparation of Cylindrotheca fusiformis, Dunaliella Salina and Tetraselmis Suecica extracts
Les algues unicellulaires Tetraselmis Suecica (prasinophycées/chlorodendrales/chlorodendracées), Cylindrotheca fusiformis, Dunaliella Salina sont cultivées dans un milieu d’eau de mer. The unicellular algae Tetraselmis Suecica (prasinophyceae/chlorodendrales/chlorodendraces), Cylindrotheca fusiformis, Dunaliella Salina are cultivated in a seawater medium.
Lorsque la concentration en algue dans le milieu est suffisante, la culture est arrêtée et est alors centrifugée pour récolter les algues. La pâte d'algues obtenue est ensuite standardisée par redispersion dans le milieu de culture. Cette dispersion est modifiée par éclatement des cellules au moyen d'un homogenéiseur à haute pression APV. Une nouvelle centrifugation permet l'élimination des débris membranaires des algues éclatées. Le broyât cellulaire, après APV, est repris dans de l’eau de mer et stabilisé (sorbate/benzoate/acide chlorhydrique ou acide citrique).
Figure imgf000013_0001
When the algae concentration in the medium is sufficient, the culture is stopped and is then centrifuged to harvest the algae. The seaweed paste obtained is then standardized by redispersion in the culture medium. This dispersion is modified by bursting the cells using an APV high-pressure homogenizer. A new centrifugation allows the elimination of membrane debris from the burst algae. The cell homogenate, after APV, is taken up in seawater and stabilized (sorbate/benzoate/hydrochloric acid or citric acid).
Figure imgf000013_0001
Exemple 2 : Effet des extraits de Cylindrotheca fusiformis, Dunaliella Salina et Tetraselmis Suecica, et de leurs associations, sur l’expression de la filaggrineExample 2: Effect of extracts of Cylindrotheca fusiformis, Dunaliella Salina and Tetraselmis Suecica, and their associations, on the expression of filaggrin
Des kératinocytes ont été ensemencés dans des plaques 96 puits et cultivés en milieu de culture pendant 192 heures avec un renouvellement du milieu de culture après 24 et 96 heures. Le milieu a ensuite été remplacé par du milieu contenant ou non (témoin) : (1) soit une composition de Cylindrotheca fusiformis à 0,01 % en poids, soit une composition de Dunaliella Salina à 0,01 % en poids, soit une composition de Tetraselmis Suecica à 0,05% en poids, ou Keratinocytes were seeded in 96-well plates and cultured in culture medium for 192 hours with renewal of the culture medium after 24 and 96 hours. The medium was then replaced with medium containing or not (control): (1) either a composition of Cylindrotheca fusiformis at 0.01% by weight, or a composition of Dunaliella Salina at 0.01% by weight, or a composition of Tetraselmis Suecica at 0.05% by weight, or
(2) l’association Cylindrotheca fusiformis 0,01 % + Dunaliella Salina à 0,01% ou l’association Cylindrotheca fusiformis 0,01% + Dunaliella Salina à 0,01 % + Tetraselmis Suecica à 0,05%, ou (2) Cylindrotheca fusiformis 0.01% + Dunaliella Salina 0.01% or Cylindrotheca fusiformis 0.01% + Dunaliella Salina 0.01% + Tetraselmis Suecica 0.05%, or
(3) la référence (CaCl2 à 1 ,5 mM), et les cellules ont été incubées pendant 72 heures. (3) the reference (CaCl2 at 1.5 mM), and the cells were incubated for 72 hours.
Toutes les conditions expérimentales ont été réalisées en n = 3. All experimental conditions were carried out in n = 3.
Les cellules ont ensuite été rincées avec une solution de PBS, fixées et perméabilisées. Les cellules ont été marquées à l'aide d'un anticorps primaire spécifique (Anti-filaggrine). L'anticorps primaire a ensuite été révélé à l'aide d'un anticorps secondaire fluorescent approprié (GAM-Alexa 488) et, en parallèle, les noyaux cellulaires ont été coloré à l'aide de la solution Hoechst 33258 (bisbenzimide). L'acquisition des images (5 photos/puits) a été réalisée avec un INCell Analyzer™ 2200 (GE Healthcare, objectif x20). Le marquage a été quantifié par la mesure de l'intensité de fluorescence et normalisé par rapport au nombre total de cellules (Intégration des données numériques avec la Developer Toolbox 1 .5, logiciel GE Healthcare). Cells were then rinsed with PBS solution, fixed and permeabilized. The cells were labeled using a specific primary antibody (Anti-filaggrin). The primary antibody was then revealed using an appropriate fluorescent secondary antibody (GAM-Alexa 488) and, in parallel, the cell nuclei were stained using Hoechst 33258 (bisbenzimide) solution. The acquisition of the images (5 photos/well) was carried out with an INCell Analyzer™ 2200 (GE Healthcare, x20 objective). The labeling was quantified by measuring the fluorescence intensity and normalized with respect to the total number of cells (Integration of the numerical data with the Developer Toolbox 1.5, GE Healthcare software).
[Table 1]
Figure imgf000014_0001
[Table 1]
Figure imgf000014_0001
Les extraits de Cylindrotheca fusiformis, Dunaliella Salina et Tetraselmis Suecica seuls ne donnent pas de résultats significatifs, c’est-à-dire qu’aucun effet sur l’expression de la filaggrine ne peut être mesuré. Cylindrotheca fusiformis, Dunaliella Salina and Tetraselmis Suecica extracts alone do not give significant results, i.e. no effect on filaggrin expression can be measured.
Par contre, les résultats montrent un effet synergique de l’association Cylindrotheca fusiformis + Dunaliella Salina et de l’association Cylindrotheca fusiformis + Dunaliella Salina + Tetraselmis Suecica sur l’expression de la filaggrine. Exemple 3 : Effet des extraits de Cylindrotheca fusiformis, Dunaliella Salina et Tetraselmis Suecica, et de leur association, sur l’expression génétique après exposition à la pollution urbaine On the other hand, the results show a synergistic effect of the Cylindrotheca fusiformis + Dunaliella Salina association and of the Cylindrotheca fusiformis + Dunaliella Salina + Tetraselmis Suecica association on the expression of filaggrin. Example 3: Effect of extracts of Cylindrotheca fusiformis, Dunaliella Salina and Tetraselmis Suecica, and of their combination, on genetic expression after exposure to urban pollution
Des kératinocytes ont été ensemencés dans des plaques 24 puits et cultivés en milieu de culture pendant 24 heures. Le milieu a ensuite été remplacé par du milieu contenant ou non (témoin intoxiqué) : Keratinocytes were seeded in 24-well plates and cultured in culture medium for 24 hours. The medium was then replaced by medium containing or not (intoxicated control):
(1 ) soit une composition de Cylindrotheca fusiformis à 0,01 % en poids, soit une composition de Dunaliella Salina à 0,01 % en poids, soit une composition de Tetraselmis Suecica à 0,05% en poids, ou (1) either a composition of Cylindrotheca fusiformis at 0.01% by weight, or a composition of Dunaliella Salina at 0.01% by weight, or a composition of Tetraselmis Suecica at 0.05% by weight, or
(2) l’association Cylindrotheca fusiformis 0,01 % + Dunaliella Salina à 0,01 % + Tetraselmis Suecica à 0,05%, et les cellules ont été pré-incubées pendant 24 heures. (2) Cylindrotheca fusiformis 0.01% + Dunaliella Salina 0.01% + Tetraselmis Suecica 0.05% combination, and the cells were pre-incubated for 24 hours.
Après pré-incubation, les traitements ont été renouvelés et les cellules ont été intoxiquées avec la poussière urbaine 1649b (Servilab), testée à 0,5 mg/ml. Les cellules ont ensuite été incubées pendant 24 heures. En parallèle, un contrôle non intoxiqué a été réalisé. Toutes les conditions expérimentales ont été réalisées en n=3. A la fin de l'incubation, les cellules ont été lavées dans une solution saline tamponnée au phosphate (PBS) et immédiatement congelées à -80°C. After pre-incubation, the treatments were renewed and the cells were intoxicated with urban dust 1649b (Servilab), tested at 0.5 mg/ml. The cells were then incubated for 24 hours. In parallel, a non-intoxicated control was carried out. All the experimental conditions were carried out in n=3. At the end of the incubation, the cells were washed in phosphate buffered saline (PBS) and immediately frozen at -80°C.
L'expression de marqueurs connus pour voir leur expression augmentée après une exposition à la pollution a été analysée par la méthode RT-qPCR sur les ARN totaux extraits des monocouches cellulaires de chaque condition expérimentale (avant extraction des ARN, les réplicats de la même condition expérimentale ont été regroupés). The expression of markers known to see their expression increased after exposure to pollution was analyzed by the RT-qPCR method on the total RNAs extracted from the cell monolayers of each experimental condition (before extraction of the RNAs, the replicates of the same condition experimental have been grouped together).
L'analyse des transcrits a été réalisée en n=2 à l'aide d'une puce PCR ("mQPA- OX.STRESS-64") dédiée à la recherche et adaptée au format 'screening' (Marker qPCR array ou 'mQPA' conçu par Bioalternatives) et ciblant 64 gènes sélectionnés pour leur importance dans la détoxification. Transcripts were analyzed in n=2 using a PCR chip ("mQPA-OX.STRESS-64") dedicated to research and adapted to the 'screening' format (Marker qPCR array or 'mQPA ' designed by Bioalternatives) and targeting 64 genes selected for their importance in detoxification.
[Table 2]
Figure imgf000015_0001
Figure imgf000016_0001
[Table 2]
Figure imgf000015_0001
Figure imgf000016_0001
Les résultats montrent un effet synergique de l’association Cylindrotheca fusiformis +The results show a synergistic effect of the Cylindrotheca fusiformis +
Dunaliella Salina + Tetraselmis Suecica sur la diminution de l’expression des marqueurs de l’exposition à la pollution. Dunaliella Salina + Tetraselmis Suecica on the decrease in the expression of markers of exposure to pollution.
Exemple 4 des extraits de Cylindrotheca fusiformis et Dunaliella Salina, et de leur association, sur la synthèse d’acide hyaluronique Example 4 of Cylindrotheca fusiformis and Dunaliella Salina extracts, and their association, on the synthesis of hyaluronic acid
Des fibroblastes ont été ensemencés dans des plaques 96 puits et cultivés en milieu de culture pendant 24 heures. Le milieu a ensuite été remplacé par du milieu de dosage contenant ou non (témoin) les composés à tester, les combinaisons ou la référence (TGF-0, testé à 10 ng/ml) et les cellules ont été incubées pendant 72 heures. A la fin de l'incubation les surnageants de culture ont été collectés pour la quantification de l'acide hyaluronique. Fibroblasts were seeded in 96-well plates and cultured in culture medium for 24 hours. The medium was then replaced with assay medium containing or not containing (control) the compounds to be tested, the combinations or the reference (TGF-0, tested at 10 ng/ml) and the cells were incubated for 72 hours. At the end of the incubation, the culture supernatants were collected for the quantification of hyaluronic acid.
L'acide hyaluronique libéré dans les surnageants de culture a été dosé à l'aide d'un kit ELISA spécifique selon les instructions du fournisseur (R&D Systems, ref. The hyaluronic acid released in the culture supernatants was assayed using a specific ELISA kit according to the supplier's instructions (R&D Systems, ref.
DY3614). DY3614).
[Table 3]
Figure imgf000016_0002
[Table 3]
Figure imgf000016_0002
Les résultats montrent un effet amélioré de l’association Cylindrotheca fusiformis + Dunaliella Salina par rapport aux extraits seuls. The results show an improved effect of the Cylindrotheca fusiformis + Dunaliella Salina combination compared to the extracts alone.
Exemple 5 : exemple de composition de soin du visage de type Crème Example 5: example of cream-type facial care composition
Les pourcentages sont donnés en masse par rapport à la masse totale de la composition. [Table 4]
Figure imgf000017_0001
The percentages are given by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. [Table 4]
Figure imgf000017_0001
Exemple 6 : exemple de composition de soin du visage de type CrèmeExample 6: example of cream-type facial care composition
Les pourcentages sont donnés en masse par rapport à la masse totale de la composition. The percentages are given by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Table 5]
Figure imgf000017_0002
Exemple 7 : exemple de composition de soin du visage de type sérum[Table 5]
Figure imgf000017_0002
Example 7: example of serum-type facial care composition
Les pourcentages sont donnés en masse par rapport à la masse totale de la composition. The percentages are given by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Table 6]
Figure imgf000018_0001
[Table 6]
Figure imgf000018_0001
Exemple 8 : exemple de composition de soin du visage de type sérumExample 8: example of serum type facial care composition
Les pourcentages sont donnés en masse par rapport à la masse totale de la composition. The percentages are given by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Table 7]
Figure imgf000018_0002
[Table 7]
Figure imgf000018_0002

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
[Revendication 1] Composition cosmétique ou dermatologique comprenant au moins un extrait de Cylindrotheca fusiformis et au moins un extrait de Dunaliella Salina. [Claim 1] Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising at least one Cylindrotheca fusiformis extract and at least one Dunaliella Salina extract.
[Revendication 2] Composition cosmétique selon la revendication 1 , comprenant en outre au moins un extrait de Tetraselmis Suecica. [Claim 2] Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, further comprising at least one extract of Tetraselmis Suecica.
[Revendication 3] Composition cosmétique selon la revendication 1 ou 2, dans laquelle le pourcentage en poids dudit au moins un extrait de Cylindrotheca fusiformis est compris entre 0,0001 et 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. [Claim 3] Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 or 2, in which the percentage by weight of the said at least one Cylindrotheca fusiformis extract is between 0.0001 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Revendication 4] Composition cosmétique selon l’une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans laquelle pourcentage en poids dudit au moins un extrait de Dunaliella Salina est compris entre 0,0001 et 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. [Claim 4] Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the percentage by weight of the said at least one extract of Dunaliella Salina is between 0.0001 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Revendication 5] Composition cosmétique selon l’une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans laquelle pourcentage en poids dudit au moins un extrait de Tetraselmis Suecica est compris entre 0,0001 et 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. [Claim 5] Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the percentage by weight of the said at least one extract of Tetraselmis Suecica is between 0.0001 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Revendication 6] Composition cosmétique selon l’une quelconque des revendications précédentes, comprenant en outre au moins un autre extrait choisi dans le groupe comprenant les extraits de plantes, les extraits d’algues et les extraits de microalgues. [Claim 6] Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one other extract chosen from the group comprising plant extracts, algae extracts and microalgae extracts.
[Revendication 7] Utilisation cosmétique non thérapeutique d’une composition cosmétique telle que définie selon l’une quelconque des revendications précédentes. [Claim 7] Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.
[Revendication 8] Utilisation cosmétique non thérapeutique selon la revendication 7, pour améliorer l’hydratation de la peau, du cuir chevelu et/ou des muqueuses, et/ou pour une action anti-âge de la peau, et/ou pour lutter et prévenir les effets de la pollution sur la peau, du cuir chevelu et/ou des muqueuses et/ou pour une action apaisante de la peau et/ou des muqueuses sensibles et/ou réactives. [Claim 8] Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to Claim 7, for improving the hydration of the skin, the scalp and/or the mucous membranes, and/or for an anti-aging action on the skin, and/or for combating and prevent the effects of pollution on the skin, scalp and/or mucous membranes and/or for a soothing action on sensitive and/or reactive skin and/or mucous membranes.
[Revendication 9] Utilisation cosmétique non thérapeutique selon la revendication 7 ou 8, ladite utilisation étant sous une forme choisie parmi une crème, un onguent, une huile, un lait, une pommade, une solution, une poudre, un gel, un sérum, un baume, un beurre, une lotion, une suspension, un shampooing, un savon ou une émulsion qui peut être rincée ou non rincée. [Claim 9] Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to claim 7 or 8, said use being in a form selected from cream, ointment, oil, milk, ointment, solution, powder, gel, serum, a balm, butter, lotion, suspension, shampoo, soap or emulsion that can be rinsed out or left on.
[Revendication 10] Procédé cosmétique non thérapeutique pour améliorer l’aspect de la peau, et/ou pour améliorer l’hydratation de la peau, du cuir chevelu et/ou des muqueuses, et/ou pour une action anti-âge de la peau, et/ou pour lutter et prévenir les effets de la pollution sur la peau, du cuir chevelu et/ou des muqueuses, comprenant une application sur la peau, le cuir chevelu et/ou les muqueuses d’une composition cosmétique telle que définie dans l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6. [Claim 10] Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for improving the appearance of the skin, and/or for improving the hydration of the skin, the scalp and/or the mucous membranes, and/or for an anti-aging action on the skin , and/or to combat and prevent the effects of pollution on the skin, the scalp and/or the mucous membranes, comprising an application to the skin, the scalp and/or the mucous membranes of a cosmetic composition as defined in any of claims 1 to 6.
[Revendication 11] Dispositif se présentant sous une forme choisie parmi un pot, un flacon-pompe, une lingette, un masque, un dispositif transdermique, un patch, un spray, ledit dispositif comprenant une composition telle que définie selon l’une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6. [Claim 11] Device in a form chosen from a jar, a pump bottle, a wipe, a mask, a transdermal device, a patch, a spray, said device comprising a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 6.
PCT/FR2022/052132 2021-11-22 2022-11-21 Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprising at least one extract of cylindrotheca fusiformis and at least one extract of dunaliella salina, and cosmetic uses thereof WO2023089288A1 (en)

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FR2112316A FR3129288A1 (en) 2021-11-22 2021-11-22 COSMETIC AND/OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE EXTRACT OF CYLINDROTHECA FUSIFORMIS AND AT LEAST ONE EXTRACT OF DUNALIELLA SALINA, AND COSMETIC USES THEREOF
FRFR2112316 2021-11-22

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Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2657012A1 (en) * 1990-01-17 1991-07-19 Secma Use of extracts of microscopic algae for the preparation of pharmaceutical, cosmetic or nutrient compositions or compositions for agricultural use
FR2858771A1 (en) * 2003-08-14 2005-02-18 Daniel Jouvance Rech S Et Crea An association of extracts of seaweeds Macrocystis pyrifera and Tetrasalmis succica used in cosmetic compositions for the improvement of skin contours and reduction of wrinkles
EP2918278A1 (en) * 2014-03-14 2015-09-16 Greenaltech S.L. Algal extracts comprising fucoxanthin and fucoxanthinol
WO2019238914A1 (en) * 2018-06-15 2019-12-19 Isp Investments Llc Method for obtaining an aqueous extract of dunaliella salina and cosmetic uses of same
WO2020221971A1 (en) * 2019-05-02 2020-11-05 Laboratoires D'anjou Cosmetic care method based on photoactive extracts of microalgae
CN108852951B (en) * 2018-09-20 2021-04-30 浙江施维康生物医学材料有限公司 Skin moistening and cleaning composition and plant shower gel

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2657012A1 (en) * 1990-01-17 1991-07-19 Secma Use of extracts of microscopic algae for the preparation of pharmaceutical, cosmetic or nutrient compositions or compositions for agricultural use
FR2858771A1 (en) * 2003-08-14 2005-02-18 Daniel Jouvance Rech S Et Crea An association of extracts of seaweeds Macrocystis pyrifera and Tetrasalmis succica used in cosmetic compositions for the improvement of skin contours and reduction of wrinkles
EP2918278A1 (en) * 2014-03-14 2015-09-16 Greenaltech S.L. Algal extracts comprising fucoxanthin and fucoxanthinol
WO2019238914A1 (en) * 2018-06-15 2019-12-19 Isp Investments Llc Method for obtaining an aqueous extract of dunaliella salina and cosmetic uses of same
CN108852951B (en) * 2018-09-20 2021-04-30 浙江施维康生物医学材料有限公司 Skin moistening and cleaning composition and plant shower gel
WO2020221971A1 (en) * 2019-05-02 2020-11-05 Laboratoires D'anjou Cosmetic care method based on photoactive extracts of microalgae

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