FR2858771A1 - An association of extracts of seaweeds Macrocystis pyrifera and Tetrasalmis succica used in cosmetic compositions for the improvement of skin contours and reduction of wrinkles - Google Patents
An association of extracts of seaweeds Macrocystis pyrifera and Tetrasalmis succica used in cosmetic compositions for the improvement of skin contours and reduction of wrinkles Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- FR2858771A1 FR2858771A1 FR0350431A FR0350431A FR2858771A1 FR 2858771 A1 FR2858771 A1 FR 2858771A1 FR 0350431 A FR0350431 A FR 0350431A FR 0350431 A FR0350431 A FR 0350431A FR 2858771 A1 FR2858771 A1 FR 2858771A1
- Authority
- FR
- France
- Prior art keywords
- extract
- macrocystis
- association
- wrinkles
- tetraselmis
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
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- 239000000284 extract Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 38
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 16
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 16
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 9
- 241001491705 Macrocystis pyrifera Species 0.000 title claims abstract description 6
- 241001474374 Blennius Species 0.000 title claims abstract description 5
- 241000196321 Tetraselmis Species 0.000 claims abstract description 15
- 239000013543 active substance Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 5
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 241001491708 Macrocystis Species 0.000 claims description 14
- 241000195493 Cryptophyta Species 0.000 claims description 11
- 239000013535 sea water Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- QWGRWMMWNDWRQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methylpropane-1,3-diol Chemical compound OCC(C)CO QWGRWMMWNDWRQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000000605 extraction Methods 0.000 claims description 9
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 claims description 6
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000012528 membrane Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- OYPRJOBELJOOCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N Calcium Chemical compound [Ca] OYPRJOBELJOOCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- FYYHWMGAXLPEAU-UHFFFAOYSA-N Magnesium Chemical compound [Mg] FYYHWMGAXLPEAU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000011575 calcium Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052791 calcium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000006185 dispersion Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000011777 magnesium Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052749 magnesium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000001153 anti-wrinkle effect Effects 0.000 description 10
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 229940100573 methylpropanediol Drugs 0.000 description 4
- 239000002304 perfume Substances 0.000 description 4
- SNPLKNRPJHDVJA-ZETCQYMHSA-N D-panthenol Chemical compound OCC(C)(C)[C@@H](O)C(=O)NCCCO SNPLKNRPJHDVJA-ZETCQYMHSA-N 0.000 description 3
- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicium dioxide Chemical compound O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 241000405713 Tetraselmis suecica Species 0.000 description 3
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 description 3
- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-monostearoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- FLPJVCMIKUWSDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(4-formylphenoxy)acetamide Chemical compound NC(=O)COC1=CC=C(C=O)C=C1 FLPJVCMIKUWSDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- ZCTQGTTXIYCGGC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Benzyl salicylate Chemical compound OC1=CC=CC=C1C(=O)OCC1=CC=CC=C1 ZCTQGTTXIYCGGC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- -1 Ethylenediamino Chemical group 0.000 description 2
- RTAQQCXQSZGOHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titanium Chemical compound [Ti] RTAQQCXQSZGOHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- POJWUDADGALRAB-UHFFFAOYSA-N allantoin Chemical compound NC(=O)NC1NC(=O)NC1=O POJWUDADGALRAB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 238000005119 centrifugation Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229960000541 cetyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 229940074979 cetyl palmitate Drugs 0.000 description 2
- DLAHAXOYRFRPFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecyl benzoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 DLAHAXOYRFRPFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000002349 favourable effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000001914 filtration Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229940075529 glyceryl stearate Drugs 0.000 description 2
- PXDJXZJSCPSGGI-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecanoic acid hexadecyl ester Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC PXDJXZJSCPSGGI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000006210 lotion Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000010445 mica Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229910052618 mica group Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 229940101267 panthenol Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 235000020957 pantothenol Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 239000011619 pantothenol Substances 0.000 description 2
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 229910052719 titanium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 239000010936 titanium Substances 0.000 description 2
- WECGLUPZRHILCT-GSNKCQISSA-N 1-linoleoyl-sn-glycerol Chemical compound CCCCC\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](O)CO WECGLUPZRHILCT-GSNKCQISSA-N 0.000 description 1
- IXPNQXFRVYWDDI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-methyl-2,4-dioxo-1,3-diazinane-5-carboximidamide Chemical compound CN1CC(C(N)=N)C(=O)NC1=O IXPNQXFRVYWDDI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- DWHIUNMOTRUVPG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-(2-dodecoxyethoxy)ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethanol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCO DWHIUNMOTRUVPG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OIALAIQRYISUEV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-[2-(2-hydroxyethoxy)ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]e Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCO OIALAIQRYISUEV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- KGKQNDQDVZQTAG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 8-methylnonyl 2,2-dimethylpropanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCOC(=O)C(C)(C)C KGKQNDQDVZQTAG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acrylic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- POJWUDADGALRAB-PVQJCKRUSA-N Allantoin Natural products NC(=O)N[C@@H]1NC(=O)NC1=O POJWUDADGALRAB-PVQJCKRUSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000005995 Aluminium silicate Substances 0.000 description 1
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N D-Glucitol Natural products OC[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000004866 D-panthenol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011703 D-panthenol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011627 DL-alpha-tocopherol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000001815 DL-alpha-tocopherol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- QXNVGIXVLWOKEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Disodium Chemical compound [Na][Na] QXNVGIXVLWOKEQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 241000227647 Fucus vesiculosus Species 0.000 description 1
- 108010010803 Gelatin Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 229920000084 Gum arabic Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004354 Hydroxyethyl cellulose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000663 Hydroxyethyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 1
- WHUUTDBJXJRKMK-VKHMYHEASA-N L-glutamic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@@H](N)CCC(O)=O WHUUTDBJXJRKMK-VKHMYHEASA-N 0.000 description 1
- 241001491702 Lessoniaceae Species 0.000 description 1
- KDXKERNSBIXSRK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Lysine Natural products NCCCCC(N)C(O)=O KDXKERNSBIXSRK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004472 Lysine Substances 0.000 description 1
- 241000196317 Platymonas Species 0.000 description 1
- 241000196315 Prasinocladus Species 0.000 description 1
- 229920002125 Sokalan® Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 235000021355 Stearic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sulfate Chemical compound [O-]S([O-])(=O)=O QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titan oxide Chemical compound O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Triethanolamine Chemical compound OCCN(CCO)CCO GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 241000209140 Triticum Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000021307 Triticum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000018936 Vitellaria paradoxa Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 241001135917 Vitellaria paradoxa Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000010489 acacia gum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000205 acacia gum Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960000458 allantoin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000012211 aluminium silicate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940079894 benzophenone-9 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000009172 bursting Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000014121 butter Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229960001631 carbomer Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N d-alpha-tocopherol Natural products OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2OC(CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960003949 dexpanthenol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940008099 dimethicone Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000004205 dimethyl polysiloxane Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- PKPOVTYZGGYDIJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N dioctyl carbonate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCOC(=O)OCCCCCCCC PKPOVTYZGGYDIJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QDCHWIWENYCPIL-UHFFFAOYSA-L disodium;4-hydroxy-5-(2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-5-sulfonatobenzoyl)-2-methoxybenzenesulfonate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].C1=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C(OC)=CC(O)=C1C(=O)C1=CC(S([O-])(=O)=O)=C(OC)C=C1O QDCHWIWENYCPIL-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001815 facial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000013312 flour Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000012530 fluid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000499 gel Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000008273 gelatin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000159 gelatin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 235000019322 gelatine Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000011852 gelatine desserts Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229930195712 glutamate Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 238000000227 grinding Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000019447 hydroxyethyl cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N kaolin Chemical compound O.O.O=[Al]O[Si](=O)O[Si](=O)O[Al]=O NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940031726 laureth-10 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940031674 laureth-7 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000011325 microbead Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013336 milk Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008267 milk Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000004080 milk Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- VAMFXQBUQXONLZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-alpha-eicosene Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC=C VAMFXQBUQXONLZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC(C)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FMJSMJQBSVNSBF-UHFFFAOYSA-N octocrylene Chemical group C=1C=CC=CC=1C(=C(C#N)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)C1=CC=CC=C1 FMJSMJQBSVNSBF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960000601 octocrylene Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940031709 peg-30-dipolyhydroxystearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002401 polyacrylamide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002335 preservative effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 108090000623 proteins and genes Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 102000004169 proteins and genes Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 125000000946 retinyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])/C([H])=C(C([H])([H])[H])/C([H])=C([H])/C([H])=C(C([H])([H])[H])/C([H])=C([H])/C1=C(C([H])([H])[H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C1(C([H])([H])[H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 229940057910 shea butter Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000035939 shock Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000377 silicon dioxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010413 sodium alginate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000661 sodium alginate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940005550 sodium alginate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940033331 soy sterol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000475 sunscreen effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000516 sunscreening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000725 suspension Substances 0.000 description 1
- OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N titanium oxide Inorganic materials [Ti]=O OGIDPMRJRNCKJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229960000984 tocofersolan Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000002604 ultrasonography Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229940099259 vaseline Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000010493 xanthan gum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000230 xanthan gum Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001285 xanthan gum Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229940082509 xanthan gum Drugs 0.000 description 1
- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N α-tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0212—Face masks
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9706—Algae
- A61K8/9711—Phaeophycota or Phaeophyta [brown algae], e.g. Fucus
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9706—Algae
- A61K8/9722—Chlorophycota or Chlorophyta [green algae], e.g. Chlorella
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
- A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
Landscapes
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Biotechnology (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Botany (AREA)
- Mycology (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- Nuclear Medicine, Radiotherapy & Molecular Imaging (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Organic Chemistry (AREA)
- Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
- Bioinformatics & Cheminformatics (AREA)
- Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
<Desc/Clms Page number 1> <Desc / Clms Page number 1>
ASSOCIATION D'AGENTS ACTIFS EXTRAITS D'ALGUES ET LES COMPOSITIONS COSMETIQUES COMPRENANT CETTE ASSOCIATION. ASSOCIATION OF ACTIVE AGENTS EXTRACTED FROM ALGAE AND COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING THE ASSOCIATION.
L'invention concerne le domaine du soin de la peau et s'intéresse tout particulièrement à l'utilisation d'agents actifs extraits d'algues pour la préparation de ces compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques. The invention relates to the field of skin care and is particularly interested in the use of active agents extracted from algae for the preparation of these cosmetic or dermatological compositions.
On a décrit dans l'art antérieur l'utilisation d'extraits de macrocystis en cosmétique (KELPADELIE extrait sec de la société SECMA). Il a également été proposé par exemple dans les brevets français No. 9105963 ou 9114120 d'utiliser des extraits de tétraselmis ou une suspension de tétraselmis. It has been described in the prior art the use of macrocystis extracts in cosmetics (KELPADELIE dry extract from the company SECMA). It has also been proposed for example in French Pat. Nos. 9105963 or 9114120 to use tetraselmis extracts or a suspension of tetraselmis.
La demanderesse a maintenant mis au point une nouvelle association d'extraits d'algues, remarquable pour le soin visage ou du corps, et particulièrement efficace pour l'amélioration du relief et du micro-relief cutanés, et notamment utile pour diminuer la profondeur des rides. The applicant has now developed a new combination of extracts of algae, remarkable for the facial or body care, and particularly effective for the improvement of the relief and micro-relief cutaneous, and particularly useful for reducing the depth of the skin. wrinkles.
Cette association comprend ou est constituée : - d'un extrait d'une algue pluricellulaire géante : macrocystis pyrifera (L) C. Agardh lessoniacées, et - d'un extrait d'une algue unicellulaire tétraselmis suecica chlorodendracées (synonymes platymonas, aulacochlamys prasinocladus et pyramichlamys). This association comprises or consists of: - an extract of a giant multi-cellular algae: macrocystis pyrifera (L) C. Agardh lessoniaceae, and - an extract of a unicellular alga tetraselmis suecica chlorodendracées (synonyms platymonas, aulacochlamys prasinocladus and pyramichlamys).
L'extrait de macrocystis est obtenu par extraction à l'aide d'un milieu solvant constitué de 2-méthyl propane- 1,3-diol et d'eau de mer partiellement dessalée. The macrocystis extract is obtained by extraction using a solvent medium consisting of 2-methylpropane-1,3-diol and partially desalinated seawater.
Avantageusement, le 2 methylpropane-1,3-diol représente entre 1 et 60 % en poids du solvant. Advantageously, the 2-methylpropane-1,3-diol represents between 1 and 60% by weight of the solvent.
On préfère utiliser une eau de mer partiellement dessalée dont la salinité résiduelle est comprise entre 2 et 50g/l, avec un rapport entre le sodium et le magnésium It is preferred to use partially desalinated seawater whose residual salinity is between 2 and 50 g / l, with a ratio between sodium and magnesium
<Desc/Clms Page number 2><Desc / Clms Page number 2>
compris entre 1 et 6 et un rapport entre le sodium et le calcium compris entre 2 et 12. between 1 and 6 and a ratio between sodium and calcium of between 2 and 12.
De préférence, l'extraction est réalisée : - soit à partir d'algue macrocystis sèche à raison de 1 à 0,1 part pour 1 part de milieu d'extraction, - soit à partir d'algue macrocystis fraîche à raison de 1 à 5 parts pour 1 part de milieu d'extraction. Preferably, the extraction is carried out: either from dried macrocystis seaweed at a rate of 1 to 0.1 parts per 1 part of extraction medium, or from fresh macrocystis algae at a rate of 1 to 5 parts for 1 part extraction medium.
L'extrait de tétraselmis est avantageusement préparé à partir d'une culture pure de la souche algale dans de l'eau de mer de salinité standard de l'ordre de 35g/1, telle que trouvée dans l'Océan Atlantique. The tetraselmis extract is advantageously prepared from a pure culture of the algal strain in standard salinity seawater of the order of 35 g / l, as found in the Atlantic Ocean.
La culture est concentrée par centrifugation de telle sorte que la pâte d'algue obtenue permette un éclatement aisé des cellules par une technique appropriée telle que les ultrasons, un choc hyperbar, un broyage mécanique à l'aide de micro-billes. The culture is concentrated by centrifugation so that the obtained alga paste allows an easy bursting of the cells by a suitable technique such as ultrasound, hyperbaric shock, mechanical grinding using microbeads.
La concentration cellulaire est comprise entre 40 millions et 2 milliards de cellule/gramme. The cell concentration is between 40 million and 2 billion cells / gram.
L'extrait de tétraselmis est le broyat cellulaire entier ou la partie débarrassée des débris membranaires insolubles par filtration et/ou centrifugation. The tetraselmis extract is the whole cell homogenate or the part freed from insoluble membrane debris by filtration and / or centrifugation.
Ainsi, l'extrait d'algue tétraselmis est de préférence obtenu par dispersion dans de l'eau de mer standard à une salinité de 35 g/1, de cellules éclatées a une concentration comprise entre 1 et 400 millions de cellules par ml. Selon une forme de réalisation particulière, les débris membranaires des algues sont éliminés. Thus, the tetraselmis algae extract is preferably obtained by dispersion in standard seawater at a salinity of 35 g / l, cells exploded at a concentration of between 1 and 400 million cells per ml. According to a particular embodiment, the membrane debris of the algae are eliminated.
Dans l'association selon l'invention, la proportion de l'extrait de macrocystis par rapport à l'extrait de tétraselmis est comprise entre 1/10 et 10/1 et de préférence entre 40/60 et 60/40. In the combination according to the invention, the proportion of the macrocystis extract relative to the tetraselmis extract is between 1/10 and 10/1 and preferably between 40/60 and 60/40.
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L'invention a également pour objet des compositions cosmétiques ou éventuellement dermatologiques, comprenant une association telle que définie précédemment. The invention also relates to cosmetic or possibly dermatological compositions, comprising an association as defined above.
Ces compositions cosmétiques comprennent entre 1 et 100 % en poids de l'association des extraits définis précédemment. Elles peuvent donc comprendre d'autres substances actives ou non généralement utilisées en cosmétique. These cosmetic compositions comprise between 1 and 100% by weight of the combination of the extracts defined above. They can therefore include other active substances or not generally used in cosmetics.
Les compositions cosmétiques selon l'invention sont particulièrement efficaces pour l'amélioration du relief et du micro-relief cutanés et sont donc utiles pour diminuer la profondeur des rides. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are particularly effective for the improvement of the cutaneous relief and micro-relief and are therefore useful for reducing the depth of wrinkles.
En effet, comme le montre les résultats ci-dessous, la Demanderesse a mis en évidence une efficacité antirides de l'association de ces extraits qui est très supérieure à l'efficacité antirides de l'un ou de l'autre extrait seul : - Efficacité antirides d'un extrait de macrocystis pyrifera (2- methylpropane-1,3-diol 20 %, eau de mer dessalée à 17g/l, 1 kg d'algue sèche pour 10kg d'extrait) : 15,8 % de réduction du volume des rides et 82 % des volontaires montrant un effet favorable (test réalisé sur 11 femmes après 4 semaines d'utilisation). Indeed, as shown by the results below, the Applicant has demonstrated an anti-wrinkle effectiveness of the combination of these extracts which is much greater than the anti-wrinkle effectiveness of one or the other extract alone: Anti-wrinkle efficacy of an extract of macrocystis pyrifera (2-methylpropane-1,3-diol 20%, seawater desalted at 17g / l, 1 kg of dry algae for 10kg of extract): 15,8% reduction the volume of wrinkles and 82% of volunteers showing a favorable effect (test performed on 11 women after 4 weeks of use).
- L'efficacité antirides d'un extrait de tétraselmis suecica (eau de mer salée à 35 g/1, contenu cellulaire de l'équivalent de 16 millions de cellules/ml) n'a pu être mis en évidence (pas d'effet). - The anti-wrinkle efficacy of a tetraselmis suecica extract (salt water 35 g / l, cell contents equivalent to 16 million cells / ml) could not be demonstrated (no effect ).
- Efficacité antirides du mélange 1/1 d'un extrait de macrocystis pyrifera et d'un extrait de tétraselmis suecica : 31,1 % de réduction du volume des rides et 100 % des volontaires montrant un effet favorable (test réalisée sur 11 femmes après 4 semaines d'utilisation). - Anti-wrinkle efficacy of the 1/1 mixture of an extract of macrocystis pyrifera and a tetraselmis suecica extract: 31.1% reduction in the volume of wrinkles and 100% of volunteers showing a favorable effect (test carried out on 11 women after 4 weeks of use).
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Ainsi, l'invention se rapporte aussi à un procédé cosmétique pour le soin du visage et du corps et notamment pour l'amélioration du relief et du micro-relief cutanés et tout particulièrement pour diminuer la profondeur des rides, consistant à appliquer sur la peau une composition comme décrite précédemment. Thus, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care of the face and body and in particular for the improvement of the skin relief and micro-relief and particularly to reduce the depth of wrinkles, consisting in applying to the skin a composition as described above.
Une composition cosmétique selon l'invention peut se présenter sous diverses formes cosmétiques appropriées, comme de façon non limitative une émulsion (crème, lait), une lotion, un gel, un masque, etc. A cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in various appropriate cosmetic forms, such as but not limited to an emulsion (cream, milk), a lotion, a gel, a mask, etc.
Des exemples de compositions cosmétiques selon l'invention sont donnés ci-après. Examples of cosmetic compositions according to the invention are given below.
Exemple 1 : Lotion antirides lifting
Benzophénone 9 0,1
Eau de mer (17g/1) qsp 100
Méthylpropanédiol 4
Gélatine marine 6
Acide éthylènediamino tétracétique 0,2
Gomme acacia 2
Gomme xanthane 0,6
Allantoïne 0,1
L. lysine 50 % 0,3
Extrait de tétraselmis 5
Extrait de macrocystis 4
Protéine de blé 3
Octyldodeceth-30 0,8
Parfum 0,15
Conservateur 0,8
Exemple 2 : Emulsion antirides fluide
PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystéarate 2 Example 1: Lifting anti-wrinkle lotion
Benzophenone 9 0.1
Sea water (17g / 1) qs 100
Methylpropanediol 4
Marine gelatin 6
Ethylenediamino tetracetic acid 0.2
Acacia gum 2
Xanthan gum 0.6
Allantoin 0.1
L. lysine 50% 0.3
Extract of tetraselmis 5
Macrocystis extract 4
Wheat protein 3
Octyldodeceth-30 0.8
Perfume 0.15
Conservative 0.8
Example 2: Fluid anti-wrinkle emulsion
PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate 2
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C12-15 alkyl benzoate 10 Vaseline 3 DL-alpha tocophérol 0,3 Silice pyrogenée 0,5 Cyclopentasiloxane 7 Eau de mer (17g/1) qsp 100 Extrait de tétraselmis 4 Extrait de macrocystis 4 Glycérine 5 Methylpropanédiol 4 Ethanol 5 Nacre mica titane 2 Parfum 0,5 Exemple 3 : Crème antirides Eau déminéralisée qsp 100 Conservateur 1,5 Hydroxyéthylcellusose 0,6 Carbomer 0,2 Sodium cétearyl sulfate 0,8 Sodium cétearyl glutamate 1,8 Glycérine 3 Panthenol 1 Méthylpropanédiol 3 Extrait de macrocystis 5 Extrait de tétraselmis 5 Alcool cétylique 1 Acide stéarique 1,5 Soja stérol 1,4 Glycéryl stéarate 0,2 Cetylpalmitate 1 Phényldiméthicone 1 Diméthicone 1 C12-15 alkyl benzoate Vaseline 3 DL-alpha tocopherol 0.3 Pyrogenous silica 0.5 Cyclopentasiloxane 7 Seawater (17g / 1) qs 100 Tetraselmis extract 4 Macrocystis extract 4 Glycerin 5 Methylpropanediol 4 Ethanol 5 Nacre mica titanium 2 Perfume 0.5 Example 3: Anti-wrinkle cream Demineralized water qs 100 Preservative 1.5 Hydroxyethylcellose 0.6 Carbomer 0.2 Sodium cetearyl sulfate 0.8 Sodium cetearyl glutamate 1.8 Glycerin 3 Panthenol 1 Methylpropanediol 3 Macrocystis extract 5 Tetraselmis extract 5 Cetyl alcohol 1 Stearic acid 1.5 Soy sterol 1,4 Glyceryl stearate 0.2 Cetylpalmitate 1 Phenyldimethicone 1 Dimethicone 1
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Beurre de kokum 2
Rétinyl palmilate 0,2
Dicaprylyl carbonate 3
Isodécyl néopentanoate 3
BHT 0,1
Polyacrylamide 1,2
Laureth-7 0,3
C 11-13 isoparaffin 0,5
Parfum 0,6
Exemple 4 : Masque antirides
Sorbitol 10
Méthylpropanédiol 6
D-panthénol 1
Glycérine 5
Carraghennane 0,9
Alginate de sodium 0,2
Diatomite 10
Kaolin 8
Laureth-10 2
Alcool cétylique 1,5
Ceteareth-50 0,5
Farine de fucus vesiculosus 8
Extrait de tétraselmis 6
Extrait de macrocystis 3
Eau déminéralisée qsp 100
Conservateur 0,8
Exemple 5 : Crème antirides solaire
Les substances filtrantes UV A&B de cet exemple seraient aisément substituées par l'homme du métier par les molécules listées dans la directive 76/768/CEE modifiée en Kokum butter 2
Retinyl palmilate 0.2
Dicaprylyl carbonate 3
Isodecyl neopentanoate 3
BHT 0.1
1,2 polyacrylamide
Laureth-7 0.3
C 11-13 isoparaffin 0.5
Perfume 0.6
Example 4: Anti-wrinkle mask
Sorbitol 10
Methylpropanediol 6
D-Panthenol 1
Glycerin 5
Carraghennane 0.9
Sodium alginate 0.2
Diatomite 10
Kaolin 8
Laureth-10 2
1,5 cetyl alcohol
Ceteareth-50 0.5
Flour of fucus vesiculosus 8
Tetraselmis extract 6
Macrocystis extract 3
Demineralized water qs 100
Conservative 0.8
Example 5: Anti-wrinkle cream
The UV filtering substances A & B of this example would be easily substituted by those skilled in the art by the molecules listed in Directive 76/768 / EEC modified in
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mnexe VII ou la FDA Final monograph on sunscreen (Federal egister May 21,1999)
Eau de mer (17g/1) qsp 100
Disodium phényldibenzimidazoletétra- sulfonate 3
Acide phénylbenzimidazosulfonique 2
1,3-butanediol 5
Glycérine 1
Conservateur 0,8
D panthénol 1
Hydroxyéthylcellulose 0,7
PEG 30 stéarate 1,8
PEG 50 stéarate 3,3
Sel tétrasodique de l'acide éthylène- diamino tétracétique 0,5
Octocrylène 8
Glycéryl stéarate 2
Glycéryl linoléate 1
Pentaérythrityl stéarate 5
Beurre de karité 2
Cétyl palmitate 1,7
PVP eicosene copolymer 1
Cyclopentasiloxane 5
Oxyde de titane nanométrique 4
C12-15 alkylbenzoate 6
Benzyl salicylate 3
Extrait de tétraselmis 3
Extrait de macrocystis 5
Triéthanolamine 1,1
Nacre mica titane micronisée 2
Parfum 0,6Annex VII or the FDA Final monograph on sunscreen (Federal egister May 21,1999)
Sea water (17g / 1) qs 100
Disodium phenyldibenzimidazoletrasulfonate 3
Phenylbenzimidazosulfonic acid 2
1,3-butanediol 5
Glycerin 1
Conservative 0.8
D panthenol 1
Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.7
PEG 30 stearate 1.8
PEG 50 stearate 3,3
Tetrasodium salt of ethylene-diamino tetracetic acid 0,5
Octocrylene 8
Glyceryl stearate 2
Glyceryl linoleate 1
Pentaérythrityl stearate 5
Shea butter 2
Cetyl palmitate
PVP eicosene copolymer 1
Cyclopentasiloxane 5
Nanometric titanium oxide 4
C12-15 alkylbenzoate 6
Benzyl salicylate 3
Tetraselmis extract 3
Macrocystis extract 5
Triethanolamine 1,1
Micronized titanium mica nacre 2
Perfume 0.6
Claims (12)
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FR0350431A FR2858771B1 (en) | 2003-08-14 | 2003-08-14 | ASSOCIATION OF ACTIVE AGENTS EXTRACTED FROM ALGAE AND COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING SAID ASSOCIATION |
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Cited By (8)
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FR2894473A1 (en) * | 2005-12-08 | 2007-06-15 | Daniel Jouvance Rech S Et Crea | Use of algal culture in a cosmetic composition, comprises Chromulina unicellular algae, Asterionella and Tetraselmis or algae paste, as active agent for inhibiting the enzymes implied in the metabolism of fatty acids and lipids |
US7306669B1 (en) * | 2007-01-10 | 2007-12-11 | Yushi Zhang | Process for isolating a natural red pigment from a species of microalgae, Tetraselmis sp. MACC/P66 |
EP2277596A3 (en) * | 2009-07-22 | 2011-08-17 | Henkel AG & Co. KGaA | Hair treatment agent with kokum butter |
CN104276989A (en) * | 2014-09-16 | 2015-01-14 | 张玉石 | Method for extracting astaxanthin from platymonas subcordiformis |
FR3024660A1 (en) * | 2014-08-08 | 2016-02-12 | Blc Thalgo Cosmetic Lab | NUTRIENT COMPLEX FOR PRODUCING A NUTRIENT COSMETIC COMPOSITION BASED ON MARINE SOURCE WATER AND ALGAE EXTRACT. |
WO2020221971A1 (en) * | 2019-05-02 | 2020-11-05 | Laboratoires D'anjou | Cosmetic care method based on photoactive extracts of microalgae |
CN112006947A (en) * | 2019-05-28 | 2020-12-01 | 珀莱雅化妆品股份有限公司 | Seaweed fermentation liquor with multiple skin care effects and preparation method thereof |
WO2023089288A1 (en) * | 2021-11-22 | 2023-05-25 | Blue Lab | Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprising at least one extract of cylindrotheca fusiformis and at least one extract of dunaliella salina, and cosmetic uses thereof |
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EDITORS: R.C. PEPE, J.A. WENNINGER, G.N. MCEWEN: "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", 2002, THE COSMETIC, TOILETRY, AND FRAGRANCE ASSOCIATION, WASHINGTON, D.C., XP002279056 * |
EDITORS: R.C. PEPE,J.A. WENNINGER, G.N. MCEWEN: "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", 2002, THE COSMETIC, TOILETRY AND FRAGRANCE ASSOCIATION, WASHINGTON, D.C., XP002279057 * |
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Cited By (11)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2894473A1 (en) * | 2005-12-08 | 2007-06-15 | Daniel Jouvance Rech S Et Crea | Use of algal culture in a cosmetic composition, comprises Chromulina unicellular algae, Asterionella and Tetraselmis or algae paste, as active agent for inhibiting the enzymes implied in the metabolism of fatty acids and lipids |
US7306669B1 (en) * | 2007-01-10 | 2007-12-11 | Yushi Zhang | Process for isolating a natural red pigment from a species of microalgae, Tetraselmis sp. MACC/P66 |
EP2277596A3 (en) * | 2009-07-22 | 2011-08-17 | Henkel AG & Co. KGaA | Hair treatment agent with kokum butter |
FR3024660A1 (en) * | 2014-08-08 | 2016-02-12 | Blc Thalgo Cosmetic Lab | NUTRIENT COMPLEX FOR PRODUCING A NUTRIENT COSMETIC COMPOSITION BASED ON MARINE SOURCE WATER AND ALGAE EXTRACT. |
CN104276989A (en) * | 2014-09-16 | 2015-01-14 | 张玉石 | Method for extracting astaxanthin from platymonas subcordiformis |
WO2020221971A1 (en) * | 2019-05-02 | 2020-11-05 | Laboratoires D'anjou | Cosmetic care method based on photoactive extracts of microalgae |
FR3095658A1 (en) * | 2019-05-02 | 2020-11-06 | Laboratoires D'anjou | Cosmetic care process based on photoactive extracts of microalgae |
CN113811289A (en) * | 2019-05-02 | 2021-12-17 | 安舒实验室 | Cosmetic care method based on photoactive extracts of microalgae |
CN112006947A (en) * | 2019-05-28 | 2020-12-01 | 珀莱雅化妆品股份有限公司 | Seaweed fermentation liquor with multiple skin care effects and preparation method thereof |
WO2023089288A1 (en) * | 2021-11-22 | 2023-05-25 | Blue Lab | Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprising at least one extract of cylindrotheca fusiformis and at least one extract of dunaliella salina, and cosmetic uses thereof |
FR3129288A1 (en) * | 2021-11-22 | 2023-05-26 | Blue Lab | COSMETIC AND/OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE EXTRACT OF CYLINDROTHECA FUSIFORMIS AND AT LEAST ONE EXTRACT OF DUNALIELLA SALINA, AND COSMETIC USES THEREOF |
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