FR2826576A1 - Topical compositions containing an extract of Kluyveromyces species yeasts, having an anti-aging effect - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic and dermatological compositions containing an extract of Kluyveromyces sp., especially K. fragilis or K. lactis in a cosmetic or dermatologically-acceptable medium.

Description

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The present invention relates to the use in a composition, or for the preparation of such a composition, of an effective amount of a Kluyveromyces extract; the extract or the composition being intended to treat, in a curative and / or preventive manner, the cutaneous manifestations of aging.

The invention also relates to the use in a composition, or for the preparation of such a composition, of an effective amount of a Kluyveromyces extract; the Kluyveromyces extract or the composition being intended to activate the repair and restructuring of the skin by stimulating the synthesis of collagen.

The invention finally relates to the use in a composition, or for the preparation of such a composition, of an effective amount of a Kluyveromyces extract; the extract or the composition being intended, by stimulating the synthesis of keratin, to increase the hydration and protection provided by the stratum corneum.

The anti-aging care remains, still today, one of the main research topics of the cosmetic industry. Many lines of research have been explored for more than eighty years and the miracle product has not yet seen the light of day ...

In any case, it is the extracellular matrix (consisting largely of collagen and elastin) that, in the dermis, ensures the strength and structure of the skin. Collagen fibers are synthesized by fibroblasts. With age, the renewal of these fibers decreases and the skin loses some of its tone and elasticity.

For a long time, the intake of collagen and elastin was one of the favored ways. But with the withdrawal of bovine extracts and the growing disinterest in animal products, other alternatives are being sought, such as the stimulation of collagen synthesis.

Many active ingredients claiming this property are already present in the cosmetics market, more or less effective, but the constant search for novelties and active molecules leaves an open field of investigation for this type of products.

While products from the sea, plants and organic synthesis are widely used in cosmetics, biotech products are less popular and much appreciated. The interest in biotechnology stems from the safety of the raw material (absence of pollution in the product such as metals for example).

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 heavy, control of the culture medium), and secondly the absence of impact on the environment (clean industry, safe for ecosystems).

So we see that there remains the need for a new product, derived from microorganisms, having an action on skin aging both chronobiological and photo-induced.

However, the Applicant has found, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that an effective amount of an extract of Kluyveromyces has an action on skin aging both chronobiologically and photo-induced, and this through a stimulation of the synthesis of collagen.

To the knowledge of the applicant, it has never been described in the prior art the use of a Kluyveromyces extract to treat cutaneous manifestations of aging.

Thus, the subject of the invention is primarily the use in a composition, or for the preparation of such a composition, of an effective amount of a Kluyveromyces extract; the extract or the composition being intended to treat, in a curative and / or preventive manner, the cutaneous manifestations of aging.

Subsequently, the term cutaneous manifestation of aging must be understood as any modification of the skin due to aging, chronobiological or photoinduced, such as for example the wrinkles and fine lines, the thin skin, the decrease in collagen.

The invention has the second object the use in a composition, or for the preparation of such a composition, of an effective amount of a Kluyveromyces extract; the Kluyveromyces extract or the composition being intended to activate the repair and restructuring of the skin by stimulating the synthesis of collagen.

The third subject of the invention is the use in a composition, or for the preparation of such a composition, of an effective amount of a Kluyveromyces extract; the extract or the composition being intended, by stimulating the synthesis of keratin, to

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 increase the hydration and protection provided by the stratum corneum.

To give an order of magnitude, in the cosmetic or dermatological compositions of the present invention, the Kluyveromyces extract is used in an amount representing from 0.01% to 10% of the total weight of the composition, and preferably in an amount representing from 0.5% to 5% of the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the compositions according to the present invention will be in a form suitable for topical administration to the skin, and cover all cosmetic or dermatological forms. These compositions must therefore contain a cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin, hair or hair. These compositions may especially be in the form of creams, O / W emulsions, W / O emulsions or multiple emulsions, solutions, suspensions, gels, milks, lotions, sticks or even powders, suitable for application to the skin, the lips and / or the hair.

These compositions comprise the excipients necessary for their formulation, such as solvents, thickeners, diluents, surfactants, antioxidants, dyes, preservatives, perfumes.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compounds, active or non-active, and / or their quantity, so that the advantageous properties of the mixture are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition considered.

Also, another subject of the invention consists of a cosmetic or dermatological composition, characterized in that it contains, in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, the Kluyveromyces extract.

In the compositions of the invention, the Kluyveromyces extract is present in an amount representing from 0.01% to 10% of the total weight of the composition, and preferably in an amount representing from 0.1% to 5% by weight. total of the composition.

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Finally, the invention relates to a cosmetic process for the treatment of the manifestations of aging, consisting in applying, to the skin or the hair, the composition as defined above.

Other advantages and characteristics of the invention will appear better on reading the examples given by way of illustration and not limitation.

EXAMPLE 1 Preparation of an Kluyveromyces Extract The yeasts Kluyveromyces fragilis and Kluyveromyces lactis are cultured in a medium adapted to their development and then centrifuged to recover a biomass.

The biomass is then milled in a ball mill. Then, the ground material is resuspended in water at a concentration of 100 grams per liter before enzymatic hydrolysis at 40-60 ° C. for 6 hours. After hydrolysis, the product is centrifuged and filtered before sterilization.

EXAMPLE 2 Effects of the Extract of Example 1 on the Synthesis of Proteins Fibroblasts and keratinocytes were cultured and then cultured in the labteks of 8 wells. At 50% confluence, concentrations of 3% of the extract of Example 1 were applied to the cells for 24 hours.

Immunolabelling was then carried out with a peroxidase revelation (DAB), to demonstrate the synthesis of: Collagen 1 and collagen III on fibroblasts, Keratin on keratinocytes.

An image analysis allowing the quantification was finally realized using the Samba Technologie software. The results were treated statistically with the Student's method.

In all cases a net and statistically significant increase was observed.

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 Thus, the Kluyveromyces extract of Example 1 used at 3% stimulates the synthesis of collagen 1 and ni, and keratin.

Example 3 Preparation of compositions These compositions were obtained by simple mixing of the various components. The quantities indicated are given as a percentage of weight.

1-Emulsion oil in water Oily phase:

<Tb>
<tb> a <SEP> Montanov <SEP> 68 <SEP> (Cetearyl <SEP> Alcohol <SEP> and <SEP> Cetearyl <SEP> Glucoside) <SEP> 5.00 <SEP>%
<tb> a <SEP> Oil <SEP> of <SEP> Jojoba <SEP> 5.00 <SEP>%
<tb>#<SEP> Oil <SEP> of <SEP> Vaseline <SEP> 5.00 <SEP>%
<tb> a <SEP> Isopropyl <SEP> Palmitate <SEP> 7.00 <SEP>%
<Tb>
Aqueous phase :

<Tb>
<tb> a <SEP> Glycerin <SEP> 5.00 <SEP>%
<tb> a <SEP> Allantoin <SEP> 0.10 <SEP>%
<tb>#<SEP> Extracted <SEP> from <SEP> Example <SEP> 1 <SEP> 5.00 <SEP>%
<tb>#SEP> Sepigel <SEP> 305 <SEP> (Polyacrylamide <SEP> and <SEP> C13-14 <SEP> Isoparaffin <SEP> and <SEP> Laureth-7) <SEP> 0.30 <SEP>%
<tb> a <SEP> Conservative <SEP> 0.50 <SEP>%
<tb> a <SEP> Fragrance <SEP> 0. <SEP> 50 <SEP>%
<tb> a <SEP> Water <SEP> qsp <SEP> 100 <SEP>%
<Tb>
2-Gel

<Tb>
<tb>#<SEP> CarbopolUltrezlO <SEP> (sol. <SEP> to <SEP> 2%) <SEP> 25.00 <SEP>%
<tb> a <SEP> Triethanolamine <SEP> 0.50 <SEP>%
<tb> a <SEP> Extracted <SEP> from <SEP> Example <SEP> 1 <SEP> 1. <SEP> 0 <SEP>%
<tb> a <SEP> Conservative <SEP> 0.20 <SEP>%
<tb><SEP>!<SEP> EDTA <SEP> (sequestering) <SEP> 0.10 <SEP>%
<tb> a <SEP> Fragrance <SEP> 0. <SEP> 50 <SEP>%
<Tb>

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5 10

5 10

<Tb>
<tb>#<SEP> Water <SEP> qsp <SEP> 100 <SEP>%
<Tb>
3 Lotion

<Tb>
<tb> a <SEP> Mono <SEP> Propylene <SEP> Glycol <SEP> 1.00 <SEP>%
<tb>#<SEP> Allantoin <SEP> 0.30 <SEP>%
<tb> a <SEP> Glycerin <SEP> 1.00 <SEP>%
<tb>#<SEP> Cetiol <SEP> HE <SEP> (PEG-7 <SEP> Glyceryl <SEP> Cocoate) <SEP> 1.00 <SEP>%
<tb>#<SEP> Extracted <SEP> from <SEP> Example <SEP> 1 <SEP> 0.1 <SEP>%
<tb>#<SEP> Conservative <SEP> 0.20 <SEP>%
<tb> a <SEP> Fragrance <SEP> 0. <SEP> 50 <SEP>%
<tb> a <SEP> Water <SEP> qsp <SEP> 100 <SEP>%
<Tb>

Claims (8)

1. Use in a composition, or for the preparation of such a composition, an effective amount of a Kluyveromyces extract; the extract or the composition being intended to treat, in a curative and / or preventive manner, the cutaneous manifestations of aging. 2. Use in a composition, or for the preparation of such a composition, of an effective amount of a Kluyveromyces extract; the Klyuveromyces extract or the composition being intended to activate the repair and restructuring of the skin by stimulating the synthesis of collagen. 3. Use in a composition, or for the preparation of such a composition, of an effective amount of a Kluyveromyces extract; the extract or the composition being intended, by stimulating the synthesis of keratin, to increase the hydration and protection provided by the stratum corneum. 4. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the Kluyveromyces extract is obtained from Kluyveromyces sp., And

 preferentially Kluyveromycesfragilis or Kluyveromyces lactis. 5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the Kluyveromyces extract is used in an amount representing from 0.01% to 10% of the total weight of the composition, and preferably in an amount representing from 0.5% to 5% of the total weight of the composition. 6. Cosmetic or dermatological composition, characterized in that it contains, in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, the extract of Kluyveromyces. 7. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the extract of Kluyveromyces is present in an amount of from 0.01% to 10% of the total weight <Desc / Clms Page number 8>  of the composition, and preferably in an amount representing from 0.1% to 5% of the total weight of the composition. 8. Cosmetic process for the treatment of the manifestations of aging, consisting in applying, to the skin or the hair, the composition according to Claims 6 to 7.