FR2746316A1 - NEW COSMETOLOGICAL OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITIONS - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to new compositions intended to combat aging of the skin and / or to increase the elasticity of the skin which comprise two active principles, one acting at the level of the formation of Amadori products, dawn inhibiting the activity of elastases. The new compositions of the invention are more particularly intended for cosmetic or dermatological use.

Description

-I The invention relates to a new cosmetic composition or

  dermatological intended to fight against aging of the skin and / or

  increase the elasticity of the skin.

  The aging of the skin is a complex phenomenon, involving many more or less slow reactions and which lead to a

  decrease in skin elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles.

  These changes in biomechanical properties are mainly due to the evolution of two of the main macromolecules of the dermis, collagen.

and elastin.

  It is indeed known that collagen is renewed more slowly during aging and that the replacement of aged fibers becomes more difficult, in particular due to the appearance of internal cross-links forming

  bridges between collagen fibers.

  These bonds whose number increases with age participate in the stiffening and stiffening of the tissues which are phenomena

  characteristics of an aging fabric.

  It has also been shown that these bridging bonds originate in particular from a fixation of glucose on the collagen, in particular on the residues

  lysine and hydroxylysine thereof (ref. 1).

  This non-enzymatic fixation of glucose is known under the name of glycation and has been demonstrated for a long time, in particular by the work of Maillard. Since then, the fixation of other sugars, such as fructose or ribose, has

was also shown.

  The binding of glucose to proteins involves a series of reactions including the formation of unstable Schiff bases which rearrange into more stable products, known as Amadori products. Over time, these Amadori products can then react with a variety of molecules, to finally give, after rearrangement,

irreversible structures.

  In the case of glucose, experiments have shown that one of the

  irreversible products finally formed is [2- (2-furoyl) -4 (5) - (2furanyl) -lH-

imidazole].

  This product is yellowish brown and fluorescent.

  In the case of glucose, a correlation has been established between the increase in the glycation rate and the increase in the tensile strength of collagen (ref. 2) as well as a decrease in its solubility (ref. 3) , establishing the harmful role of these glycation products in the mechanical properties of collagen. It is also known that the fixation of glucose on proteins leads, in the presence of oxygen, to the formation of free radicals (ref. 4). The destructive effects of free radicals on the various constituents of the skin are well known: lipid peroxidation, cutting of proteins and glycosaminoglycans, bridging between tyrosine residues and proteins, etc. Because of these degradations, the appearance of free radicals also constitutes a factor of

aging of the skin tissue.

  Finally, if the glycation of collagen takes place in an oxidizing medium, other types of bypass are also formed. For example, fructolysine is itself degraded into N- (carboxymethyl) lysine or is transformed, after

  reaction with an arginine residue, to finally give pentosidine.

  These bypasses resulting from protein glycoxidation increase

  also with age in humans (ref. 5).

  It was then proposed to use substances preventing Amadori products from rearranging over time into irreversible products. It has been shown in particular that aminoguanidine decreases the crosslinking of proteins contained in the arterial walls of diabetic subjects. Aminoguanidine works by blocking the processing of Amadori products resulting from rearrangement

  glucose and a protein in [2- (2-furoyl) -4 (5) - (2-furanyl) -lHimidazole] (ref.

  6). In addition, it has long been known that elastases are the enzymes responsible for the degradation of elastin by hydrolysis (see 7) and that therefore elastases also contribute to the degradation of properties.

skin elastic.

  Two types of elastases can be found in the skin. First of all, leukocyte elastase is released by polymorphonuclear cells following exposure of the skin to tension or stress, in particular ultraviolet radiation, pollution, infection, etc. (ref. 8). On the other hand, elastases belonging to the class of metalloproteases are synthesized by fibroblasts.

  of the dermis and increasing with age (ref. 9).

  The bridging of collagen by glycation and the stiffening of the fibers which results therefrom on the one hand, the destruction of the elastin fibers under the effect of the elastases on the other hand, are two phenomena whose conjugation causes a loss of elasticity of the dermis which leads to the formation of wrinkles and fine lines. It is therefore important to act simultaneously on the two phenomena to restore elasticity

  suitable skin and fight the appearance of wrinkles.

  Although the use of compounds such as aminoguanidine already shows an anti-glycation action, the inventors of the present patent application have

  sought to improve the results obtained.

  The main purpose of the present invention is therefore to provide a

  new cosmetic or dermatological composition with combined anti-

  glycation and anti-elastase improved and to avoid the formation of

free radicals.

  Another object of the present invention relates to the use of anti-glycation compounds and anti-elastase compounds for the preparation

of a cosmetic composition.

  The composition according to the present invention, with a view to combating aging and / or increasing the elasticity of the skin, is characterized in that it comprises a first active principle chosen from natural or synthetic compounds capable of inhibiting the formation of Amadori products by non-enzymatic reaction of sugars, in particular glucose, with the collagen of the skin, said first active principle consisting of a single compound or of a mixture of several compounds; and in that it comprises a second active principle chosen from natural or synthetic compounds capable of inhibiting the activity of skin elastases, said second active principle consisting of a compound

  single or a mixture of several compounds.

  The present invention results from the surprising discovery that certain products can block the glycation of proteins at a stage prior to that of

Amadori product training.

  In this way, the mechanism of degradation of collagen by glycation, can be blocked even earlier than before and allows

  thus obtaining better results on the elasticity of the skin.

  According to the invention, the first active principle is chosen in particular from amino acids, preferably basic, in particular lysine, arginine, histidine; peptides, preferably those containing one or more basic amino acids; allantoin; vitamin E; thiourea; dithiothreitol; the

  derivatives of organic silicon and / or derivatives of these products.

  According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the amino acid derivatives include in particular pyrrolidone carboxylate of

  lysine, arginine pyrrolidone carboxylate, arginine aspartate.

  According to the invention, the second active principle is chosen from compounds capable of blocking the action of leukocyte elastase and / or elastases synthesized by fibroblasts. It is chosen in particular from plant extracts rich in tannins, in anthocyanosides, procyanidolic oligomers, soy extract, in particular soy protein extracts, α-1l-anti-trypsin, algae extracts, especially hydrolysates of green algae proteins,

  polysaccharides, in particular sulfated polysaccharides, ceramides.

  According to the invention, the composition comprises, in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, from approximately 0.01% to approximately 50% by weight of said first active principle, preferably from approximately 0.1% to about 10% by weight, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 5% by weight and from about 0.01% to about 50% by weight of said second active ingredient, preferably about 0.1 % to about 10% by weight, more preferably

  from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight.

  According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition also comprises at least one natural or synthetic compound activating the synthesis of collagen, in particular an extract of Centella asiatica, ascorbic acid, peptides, 13-glucans or extracts of algae as described above or of oats containing them, or derivatives of these

products.

  Advantageously, the concentration of compound activating the synthesis of collagen varies from approximately 0.01% to approximately 10% by weight, preferably from approximately 0.05% to approximately 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the omposition . According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition further comprises at least one natural or synthetic compound capable of preventing the production of free radicals, thereby improving the

  inhibiting properties of the formation of free radicals of the first active ingredient.

  Mention will be made, by way of illustration of compounds capable of preventing the formation of free radicals which can be used in the context of the present patent application, vitamin E or its esters, vitamin C, plant extracts rich in

  flavonoids or polyphenols, such as Ginkgo biloba, green tea, thistle-

  marie, etc., caffeic acid, ferulic acid, glutathione, enzymes such as superoxide dismutase, glutathione reductase and glutathione peroxidase,

  zinc salts, mannitol or a derivative of these products.

  Advantageously, the concentration of compound inhibiting the production of free radicals varies from approximately 0.01% to approximately 20% by weight, preferably from approximately 0.1% to approximately 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. . According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition also comprises at least one natural or synthetic hydrating compound, in particular polyols, a constituent of the natural moisturizing factor (Natural Moisturing Factor or NMF) such as urea , an amino acid, a honey extract, hyaluronic acid, a mucopolysaccharide, one of the constituents of intercellular cement such as ceramides, fatty acids, cholesterol, etc.

  phospholipids or a derivative of these products.

  Advantageously, the concentration of hydrating compound varies from approximately 0.1% to approximately 30% by weight, preferably from approximately 0.5% to approximately

  10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Advantageously, the composition according to the invention also comprises one or more preservatives, sunscreens, excipients, stabilizing agents and / or perfumes such as those conventionally used in

the cosmetics industry.

  According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises, in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: - from about 0.1% to about 10% of lysine pyrrolidone carboxylate; - from about 0.1% to about 5% of a soy extract having anti-elastase activity; - from about 0.1% to about 5% of a mixture of plants with anti-elastase activity. According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises, in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: from approximately 0.1% to approximately 10% of arginine aspartate;

  - from approximately 0.01% to approximately 2% of procyanidolic oligomers.

  According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises, in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: - from about 0.1% to about 5% of L-histidine; from about 0.1% to about 5% of a soy extract with antielastase activity;

  - from about 0.1% to about 5% of an anti-algae extract

  elastase. According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises, in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:

  - from about 0.1% to about 5% of pyrrolidone carboxylate from L-

  lysine; - from about 0.1% to about 5% of arginine aspartate;

  - from approximately 0.1% to approximately 10% of a soy extract with anti-

  elastase. The compositions according to the invention are particularly well suited for cosmetic or dermatological use. As such, they can be in all the dosage forms usually used for these products, namely in particular aqueous, alcoholic or hydroalcoholic solution, water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, composition in aerosol form, powder. , microgranulate, dispersion, lotion, ointment. These compositions are

  prepared according to the usual methods of the fields considered.

  The compositions according to the invention notably constitute cleaning, protection, treatment or care compositions for the face, for the hands or for the body, for example day cream, night cream, make-up remover cream, anti-aging serum , body milk, cleansing milk, after-sun milk, cleansing milk, sunscreen or oil, face or body gel, regenerating anti-wrinkle product, makeup composition, makeup composition

  artificial tanning, composition for the bath.

  The compositions according to the invention may also consist of

  solid preparations such as soaps or cleaning bars.

  They can also be used in various compositions for the hair, in particular shampoos, styling lotions, treating lotions, styling creams or gels, dye compositions, lotions.

or fall protection gels.

  Additional benefits and features of this

  invention will become apparent in light of the more detailed description which follows

  of particular embodiments of the invention, given by way of illustration and not

limiting.

Example 1

  Preparation of a face cream A composition comprising the following ingredients (in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition) is prepared as described

below.

  Ingredients Content (%) Phase 1 Mixture of esters and oils 30.4 Stearic acid 3.1 Gamma orizanol 1 Volatile silicone 0.8 Vitamin E esters 1.5 Anti-oxidants 0.03 Phase 2 Glycol 2.5 Anionic surfactant 0.15 Carbomer 0.35 Purified water 41.99 Triethanolamine 1.4 Sodium lactate 60% 0.43 Phase 3 Hyaluronic acid 0.125 Plant extracts (red vine, witch hazel, St. John's wort) 1 Horsetail extract 1.5 Water 10 Phase 4 Purified soy protein extract 1 Vitamin A palmitate 0.2 Lysine peptides 0.625 PCA lysine 1 Perfume 0.35 Preservatives 0.55 Preparation: After mixing the different constituents that compose it, phase 1

  is heated to 80 C with stirring in a melter.

  The Carbomer contained in phase 2 is dispersed in water at 90 ° C. with stirring then is poured into a mixer where it is neutralized by triethanolamine. The other constituents of phase 2 are then added and the

  mixture is brought with stirring to 80 C.

  Phase 1 is poured onto phase 2 in the mixer with vigorous stirring, then the mixture is cooled with stirring. The different constituents of phase 3 are mixed and then phase 3 thus obtained, previously homogenized, is added to 60 C. Finally, phase 4 is prepared by mixing its constituents and then is introduced into the mixer at 40 C. Stirring East

  stopped when the product temperature reaches 25 C.

Example 2,

  Preparation of a cream for the night.

  A composition comprising the following ingredients (in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition) is prepared as described below. Ingredients Content (%) Phase 1 Mixture of esters and oils 32 Non-ionic surfactants 4 Gamma orizanol 1 Dry extract of Centella asiatica 0.15 Vitamin E esters 0.7 Phase 2 Glycols 5 Carbomer 0.4 Xanthan gum 0, 1 Purified water 37.995

TRIS 0.5

Nylon powder 0.5

EDTA 0.1

  Perfluoroethers 0.3 Phase 3 Hyaluronic acid 0.125 Purified water 10 Phase 4 Purified soy protein extract 1 Yeast extract 0.1 Vitamin A palmitate 0.1 Encapsulated Vitamin C 3 Arginine aspartate 0.4 PCA lysine 1.1 Perfume 0.5 Il Dyes 0.08 Preservatives 0.85 Preparation: After mixing the various constituents which compose it, phase 1 is heated to 80 C with stirring in a melter. The gelling agents contained in phase 2 are dispersed in water at C with stirring, then the gel formed is poured into a mixer. The other constituents of phase 2 are added and the mixture is brought under stirring to C. Phase 1 is poured onto phase 2 in the mixer with strong stirring then the mixture is cooled with stirring. Phase 3 previously prepared and homogenized is added to 60 C. Finally, phase 4 is prepared by

  mixture of its constituents then is introduced into the mixer at 40 C.

  Agitation is stopped when the product temperature reaches 25 C.

Example 3.

  Preparation of a face cream.

  A composition comprising the following ingredients (in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition) is prepared as described below. Ingredients Content (%) Phase 1 Mixture of esters and oils 34.9 Nonionic surfactant 1 Stearic acid 3.1 Gamma orizanol 0.5 Volatile silicone 0.8 Vitamin E esters 1.2 Antioxidants 0.01 Phase 2 Glycol 2, 5 Anionic surfactant 0.15 Carbomer 0.6 Purified water 38, 065 Triethanolamine 2.6 Lactic acid 0.55 Phase 3 Hyaluronic acid (sodium salt) 0.125 Plant extracts (red vine, witch hazel, St. John's wort) 1 Horsetail extract 0.6 Purified water 10 Phase 4 Purified soy protein extract 1 Vitamin A palmitate 0.15 Perfume 0.5 Preservatives 0.65

  The method of preparation is identical to that described in Example 1.

Experimental results.

  a) Demonstration of the anti-glycation action.

  In this experiment, the fixation of glucose on collagen and

  bovine serum albumin is studied.

  To do this, 0.25 mg / ml of collagen or 0.25 mg / ml of bovine serum albumin are incubated for 0, 4 and 10 days, with amounts of radioactive glucose of 0, 5, 50 and 200 mM at 37 ° C. in a total volume of 4 ml of 50 mM phosphate buffer pH 7.4, in closed sterile tubes. At the end of the incubation period, the Schiff bases obtained by reaction between glucose and the amino residues of collagen or bovine serum albumin are reduced by

  addition of 1 ml of a 2 mM solution of tritiated sodium borohydride.

  The reaction mixture obtained is then dialyzed at 4 ° C. for 48 hours against distilled water, to remove the glucose and the NaBH4 which are not fixed on

the proteins.

  Radioactivity bound to proteins after dialysis is counted using a liquid scintillation counter. The same experiment is carried out in parallel by adding to the collagen

  or with starting bovine serum albumin 200 mM Llysine hydrochloride.

  Tables I and II appearing in the appendix to this patent application illustrate the results. It appears from Table I that the binding of glucose alone to serum albumin increases over time, increasing from a value of

  radioactivity measured from 4920 cpm at tO to a value of 11350 cpm after 10 days.

  The addition of lysine hydrochloride causes the glucose fixation to stop, the measured radioactivity going from a value of 4320 cpm at tO to a

value of 4515 cpm after 10 days.

  The results are identical in Table II which shows that the addition of lysine hydrochloride to glucose causes a stop of fixatino to collagen. The results obtained therefore show that, in the tubes not containing L-lysine, the glucose fixes itself on the collagen or on the bovine serum albumin whereas in the tubes where L-lysine was added to the proteins, the fixation glucose on collagen or bovine serum albumin is

completely inhibited.

  b) Effects of the compositions of the invention on aging and

elasticity of the skin.

  The effect of composition 1 on the aging of the skin has been studied.

  In this test, the viscoelastic characteristics of the skin were measured.

  The biomechanical properties of the skin are assessed using a

  Dermal Torque Meter measuring device (Diastron company, Great Britain).

  This device has a probe that allows you to twist the skin with

  constant torque, the angle formed being measured as a function of time.

  The recording is also performed after the constraint is released. Composition 1 is applied to the forearm of 20 volunteers,

  the other forearm serving as a witness.

  The measurements are carried out before application of the composition and

  after 15 days, 30 days and 45 days of daily treatment.

  The biomechanical properties are evaluated 12 to 15 hours after

application of the composition.

  The viscoelastic behavior of the skin can be determined by

  with the following features.

  UE: Instantaneous angular deviation (at 0.05 seconds) corresponding to

  the elastic extensibility of the skin subjected to a constant torque of 1 lmNm.

  Uv: Viscoelastic extensibility of the skin corresponding to the

  plastic deformation of the skin between 0.05 and 30 seconds.

  UF: Total skin extensibility integrating elastic extensibility (EU) and viscoelastic extensibility (Uv). This total extensibility value is

  measured 30 seconds after the start of the application of a torque of 1 lmNm.

  UR: Immediate elastic recovery after torsion has stopped

applied to the skin.

  The results, expressed in relation to time and to the control, are given

  in Tables III to V appearing in the appendix to this patent application.

  Referring to Table III, it appears that the elastic extensibility (ULIE) of the skin is appreciably improved during the treatment, reaching a

  + 41.3% increase after 45 days.

  Referring now to Table IV, it appears that the UV / EU ratio decreases, meaning that the skin firmness during the application of the stress is also improved, decreasing to a value of - 24.2% at

after 45 days.

  Referring finally to Table V, it appears that composition 1 also improves skin firmness after stopping the stress, the ratio

  UR / UF increasing by 12.4% after 45 days.

  The daily use of composition 1 therefore makes it possible to significantly improve the viscoelastic properties of the skin: the skin is

  firm while remaining flexible and hydrated.

  By way of comparison, composition 3 is tested under the same conditions as composition 1, after 15 days and 30 days of treatment. The dose of product applied to the skin corresponds to the normal dose for use and is

between 1 and 2 mg / cm2.

  The experimental results are illustrated in Tables VI, VII and

  VIII appearing in the appendix to this patent application.

  Table VI clearly shows a decrease in extensibility

  elasticity of the skin throughout the treatment.

  Table VII shows that the skin does not become firmer during treatment and that simply a slowing down of the decrease in

  skin firmness can be observed.

  Table VIII also shows that the skin does not become firmer, the values measured after 15 days and 30 days being very close

one from the other.

  It therefore appears that composition 3, which does not contain an anti-glycation principle, produces only a negligible effect on the elasticity and firmness of the

  skin, in comparison with the results obtained with composition 1.

  c) Anti-wrinkle effect of the compositions of the invention.

  The anti-wrinkle effect of composition 2 was studied as follows.

  volunteers aged 40 to 55 applied composition 2 on the

  face for four weeks, an untreated crow's feet serving as a control.

  Silicone impressions of crow's feet are taken before and after

  treatment, then are observed under a confocal microscope.

  The densities of the skin surface microrelief (0-54 gnm), medium wrinkles (56-110 lim) and deep wrinkles (112-400 pm) are measured on

each fingerprint.

  The results are expressed as a percentage change with respect to tO (before treatment) and with respect to the untreated control zone. The results (average over 20 subjects) were as follows: - Increase in microrelief: 6%; - Reduction of medium wrinkles: 6%;

  - Reduction of deep wrinkles: 59%.

  The increase in microrelief constitutes a positive result testifying

  generally an improvement in the hydration level of the skin.

  It goes without saying that the present invention is not limited to the preferred embodiments which have just been described in the foregoing, but in

  on the contrary embraces all variants.

  Those skilled in the art can indeed make modifications to the present invention, without going beyond the scope of its elements.

  characteristics as defined in the claims which follow.

Bibliographic references.

  1. Biochem. Biophys. Res. Commun, 48, 1972, p 76-84 2. Biochem. Biophys. Acta, 677, 1981, p 313-317 3. Biochem. Journal, 225, 1985, p 745-752 4. Diabetes and Metabolism, à, 1988, p 25-30 5. J. Clin. Invest., 21.1993, 2463-2469 6. Science, 232, 1986, 1629-1632 7. Biochim. Biophys. Acta, 77, 1963, 676 8. J. Invest. Dermatol., 99, 1992, 306-309 9. J. Invest. Dermatol., 9., 1988, 472-477 Annex.

Table I.

  Radioactivity attached to serum albumin (cpm).

  Glucose Lysine, HC1 TO 4 days 10 days mM 0 4920 430 9875 + 430 11350 540 mM 200 mM 4320 + 130 4770 + 200 4515 250

Table II.

  Radioactivity bound to collagen (cpm).

  Glucose Lysine, HC1 TO 4 days 10 days mM 0 2015 85 3,440 350 3,880 270 mM 200 mM 1,910 165 1,770 55 1,520 190

Table III.

EU time (average over 20 people)

+ 23.7%

+ 30.0%

+ 41.3%

Annex (continued),

Table IV.

  UV / EU time (average over 20 people)

- 12.6%

- 20.9%

-24.2%

Table V.

  UR / UF time (average over 20 people)

+ 13.2%

+ 20.0%

+ 12.4%

Annex (continuation and end.

Table VI

EU time (average over 20 people)

-12.7%

-5.4%

Table VII. UV / EU time (average over 20 people)

+ 9.8%

+ 5.0%

Table VIII,

  UR / UF time (average over 20 people)

+ 3.1%

+ 2.0%

Claims (21)

Claims.   1. Cosmetic or dermatological composition, with a view to slowing the aging of the skin and / or increasing the elasticity of the skin, characterized in that it comprises a first active principle chosen from natural or synthetic compounds capable of inhibit the formation of Amadori products by non-enzymatic reaction of sugars, in particular glucose, with the collagen of the skin, said first active principle consisting of a single compound or of a mixture of several compounds; and in that it comprises a second active principle chosen from natural or synthetic compounds capable of inhibiting the activity of skin elastases, said second active principle being   consisting of a single compound or a mixture of several compounds.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said first active principle is chosen in particular from amino acids, preferably basic, peptides, preferably those containing one or more basic amino acids, allantoin, vitamin E, thiourea, dithiothreitol,   derivatives of organic silicon and / or derivatives of these products.   3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that   the amino acids include in particular lysine, arginine, histidine.   4. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the amino acid derivatives include in particular pyrrolidone carboxylate of   lysine, arginine pyrrolidone carboxylate, arginine aspartate.   5. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said second active principle is chosen from compounds capable of blocking the action of leukocyte elastase and / or elastases synthesized by fibroblasts.   6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that said second active principle is chosen in particular from plant extracts rich in tannins, in anthocyanosides, procyanidolic oligomers, soy extract, al-anti-trypsin, extracts algae, polysaccharides, especially   sulfated polysaccharides, ceramides.   7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to   6, characterized in that it further comprises at least one natural or synthetic compound activating the synthesis of collagen, in particular an extract of Centella asiatica, ascorbic acid, peptides, P glucans or   seaweed or oat extracts containing them or derivatives of these products.   8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to   7, characterized in that it further comprises at least one natural or synthetic compound capable of inhibiting the production of free radicals, in particular vitamin E or its esters, vitamin C, plant extracts rich in   flavonoids or polyphenols, such as Ginkgo biloba, green tea, thistle-   marie, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, glutathione, enzymes such as superoxide dismutase, glutathione reductase and glutathione peroxidase, salts   zinc, mannitol or a derivative of these products.   9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to   8, characterized in that it further comprises at least one natural or synthetic hydrating compound, in particular polyols, a constituent of NMF such as urea, an amino acid, a honey extract, hyaluronic acid, a mucopolysaccharide, one of the constituents of intercellular cement such as ceramides, phospholipids, fatty acids, cholesterol or a derivative of these products.   10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to   9, characterized in that it further comprises one or more agents   preservatives, sun filters, excipients, stabilizers and / or perfumes.   11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to   , characterized in that it comprises from approximately 0.01% to approximately 50% by weight of said first active ingredient, preferably from approximately 0.1% to approximately 10% by weight, more preferably from approximately 0 0.2% to about 5% by weight the total weight of the composition.   12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to   1 1, characterized in that it comprises from approximately 0.01% to approximately 50% by weight of said second active principle, preferably from approximately 0.1% to approximately 10% by weight, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to   12, characterized in that it comprises from approximately 0.01% to approximately 10% by weight, preferably from approximately 0.05% to approximately 5% by weight of activating compound.   the synthesis of collagen relative to the total weight of the composition.   14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to   13, characterized in that it comprises from approximately 0.01% to approximately 20% by weight, preferably from approximately 0.1% to approximately 5% by weight of the compound inhibiting the   production of free radicals relative to the total weight of the composition.   15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to   14, characterized in that it comprises from approximately 0.1% to approximately 30% by weight, preferably from approximately 0.5% to approximately 10% of hydrating compound relative to the total weight of the composition.   16. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to   , characterized in that it comprises, in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: - from approximately 0.1% to approximately 10% of lysine pyrrolidone carboxylate; - from about 0.1% to about 5% of a soy extract having anti-elastase activity; - from about 0.1% to about 5% of a mixture of plants with activity anti-elastase.   17. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to   , characterized in that it comprises, in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: - from approximately 0.1% to approximately 10% of arginine aspartate;   - from approximately 0.01% to approximately 2% of procyanidolic oligomers.   18. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to   , characterized in that it comprises, in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: - from approximately 0.1% to approximately 5% of L-histidine;   - from about 0.1% to about 5% of a soy extract with anti-activity   elastase; - from approximately 0.1% to approximately 5% of an algae extract with an anti- elastase.   19. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to   , characterized in that it comprises, in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:   - from about 0.1% to about 5% of pyrrolidone carboxylate from L-   lysine; - from about 0.1% to about 5% of arginine aspartate;   - from approximately 0.1% to approximately 10% of a soy extract with anti-   elastase. 20. Use of one or more natural or synthetic compounds capable of inhibiting the formation of Amadori products by non-enzymatic reaction of sugars, in particular glucose, with the collagen of the skin and of one or more natural or synthetic compounds capable of inhibiting the activity of skin elastases, as active principles for the preparation of a cosmetic composition intended to combat aging of the skin and / or to   increase the elasticity of the skin.   21. Use according to claim 20, wherein said   compounds are as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10.