EP4021237A1 - Chaussure et procédé de fabrication d'une chaussure - Google Patents

Chaussure et procédé de fabrication d'une chaussure

Info

Publication number
EP4021237A1
EP4021237A1 EP20758214.9A EP20758214A EP4021237A1 EP 4021237 A1 EP4021237 A1 EP 4021237A1 EP 20758214 A EP20758214 A EP 20758214A EP 4021237 A1 EP4021237 A1 EP 4021237A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
shoe
knitted
sole
yarn
fabric
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP20758214.9A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP4021237C0 (fr
EP4021237B1 (fr
Inventor
Michael Klein
Dietmar Schulte
Stefan SIBERT
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Falke KGaA
Original Assignee
Falke KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Falke KGaA filed Critical Falke KGaA
Publication of EP4021237A1 publication Critical patent/EP4021237A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP4021237C0 publication Critical patent/EP4021237C0/fr
Publication of EP4021237B1 publication Critical patent/EP4021237B1/fr
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B1/00—Footwear characterised by the material
    • A43B1/02—Footwear characterised by the material made of fibres or fabrics made therefrom
    • A43B1/04—Footwear characterised by the material made of fibres or fabrics made therefrom braided, knotted, knitted or crocheted
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B17/00—Insoles for insertion, e.g. footbeds or inlays, for attachment to the shoe after the upper has been joined
    • A43B17/003—Insoles for insertion, e.g. footbeds or inlays, for attachment to the shoe after the upper has been joined characterised by the material
    • A43B17/006—Insoles for insertion, e.g. footbeds or inlays, for attachment to the shoe after the upper has been joined characterised by the material multilayered
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B17/00—Insoles for insertion, e.g. footbeds or inlays, for attachment to the shoe after the upper has been joined
    • A43B17/08—Insoles for insertion, e.g. footbeds or inlays, for attachment to the shoe after the upper has been joined ventilated
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0205—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the material
    • A43B23/0235—Different layers of different material
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0245—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
    • A43B23/025—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form assembled by stitching
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/04—Uppers made of one piece; Uppers with inserted gussets
    • A43B23/042—Uppers made of one piece
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D04B1/123—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material with laid-in unlooped yarn, e.g. fleece fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/02—Moisture-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/021—Moisture-responsive characteristics hydrophobic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/02—Moisture-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/022—Moisture-responsive characteristics hydrophylic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/04—Heat-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/041—Heat-responsive characteristics thermoplastic; thermosetting
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/13—Physical properties anti-allergenic or anti-bacterial
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01—Surface features
    • D10B2403/011—Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0114—Dissimilar front and back faces with one or more yarns appearing predominantly on one face, e.g. plated or paralleled yarns
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/02—Cross-sectional features
    • D10B2403/021—Lofty fabric with equidistantly spaced front and back plies, e.g. spacer fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/03—Shape features
    • D10B2403/032—Flat fabric of variable width, e.g. including one or more fashioned panels
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
    • D10B2501/043—Footwear

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a shoe which comprises an upper and a sole, wherein the upper comprises an upper section which, when the shoe is worn, is arranged on an upper side of the foot of the wearer of the shoe, and wherein the upper section of the upper is a knitted fabric includes.
  • the present invention is based on the object of creating a shoe of the type mentioned at the outset in which moisture from a sweaty foot of the wearer of the shoe is particularly effectively transported away from the interior of the shoe.
  • the shoe upper comprises a sole-side section which, when the shoe is worn, is arranged on a sole-side of the foot of the wearer of the shoe, the sole-side section being a knitted fabric comprises and wherein the upper section and / or the sole-side section of the shoe upper comprises a first yarn which contains a hydrophobic synthetic fiber material, and a second yarn which contains a - preferably hydrophilic - synthetic fiber material or a hydrophilic natural fiber material.
  • the combination of the first yarn and the second yarn in the at least partially knitted shoe upper brings about a particularly effective removal of moisture, in particular sweat, through the shoe upper into the area of the sole of the shoe.
  • the first yarn comprises a polyamide material, a polyethylene material and / or a polypropylene material.
  • the second yarn can comprise a polyamide material, a polyethylene material and / or a polypropylene material.
  • the second yarn preferably comprises a wool material, a cotton material, a viscose material and / or a lyocell material.
  • the knitted fabric of the shoe upper has an inner layer which, when the shoe is worn, faces the foot of the wearer of the shoe, and an outer layer which, when the shoe is worn, faces away from the foot of the wearer of the shoe , includes.
  • the outer layer of the knitted fabric includes the first yarn and / or the inner layer of the knitted fabric includes the second yarn.
  • the inner layer comprises the first yarn and / or the outer layer comprises the second yarn.
  • the inner layer is formed predominantly from the first yarn and / or the outer layer is formed predominantly from the second yarn.
  • the second yarn comprises a hydrophilic material.
  • the moisture is then transported from the foot of the wearer and optionally through an item of legwear worn by the wearer of the shoe, for example a sock or a stocking, and through the hydrophobic inner layer into the hydrophilic outer layer of the knitted fabric of the shoe upper.
  • an insole - preferably air-permeable - can be arranged.
  • the leg clothing for example the sock or stocking, is preferably formed from one or more hydrophilic yarns.
  • the shoe upper encloses the foot of the wearer in the worn state of the shoe like a sock or a stocking.
  • the upper section and the section of the shoe upper on the sole side are knitted in one piece with one another.
  • the shoe upper is essentially completely formed from a, preferably two-layer, knitted fabric.
  • the shoe upper is preferably formed from a shoe upper preform, which is brought into a shape adapted to the last (shaped piece that is modeled on a foot) and / or to the shape of the foot of the wearer of the shoe and in this form by sewing the edges of the shoe upper -Before form is fixed.
  • the shoe upper has a sole-side seam at which two partial areas of the sole-side section of the shoe upper are sewn to one another.
  • the sewing can be done in particular by strobeing, the two sections of the shoe upper to be sewn together being sewn to one another without an overlap on the edge.
  • the knitted fabric of the shoe upper can be knitted flat. As an alternative to this, it can also be provided that the knitted fabric of the shoe upper is knitted in a circular manner.
  • the sole of the shoe comprises a knitted spacer fabric.
  • the knitted spacer is preferably materially connected to the shoe upper.
  • the upper side of the knitted spacer fabric is not cohesively connected to the upper over its entire surface.
  • connection area of the upper side of the knitted spacer fabric facing the upper facing the upper part of the knitted spacer fabric makes up at most 90%, in particular 80% at most, of the area of the upper side of the knitted spacer fabric facing the upper.
  • connection area of the upper side of the knitted spacer facing the upper facing the upper makes up at least 30%, in particular at least 40%, particularly preferably at least 50%, of the area of the upper side of the knitted spacer facing the upper.
  • the knitted spacer fabric comprises an upper carrier layer, a lower carrier layer and an intermediate layer which is arranged between the upper carrier layer and the lower carrier layer and which comprises at least one spacer thread, by means of which the upper carrier layer and the lower carrier layer are kept at a distance from one another.
  • the moisture coming from the upper part of the shoe can be passed on through the open meshes of the upper carrier layer and can reach the intermediate layer of the knitted spacer fabric stretched by the spacer threads, where it evaporates.
  • the moist air is pressed laterally through the edge of the intermediate layer and down through the open meshes of the lower carrier layer. This leads to a pumping effect which again draws new, moist air and / or moisture from the upper through the upper carrier layer of the knitted spacer into the intermediate layer of the knitted spacer.
  • the upper carrier layer contains at least one hydrophilic yarn.
  • the upper carrier layer of the knitted spacer fabric contains at least one yarn with an antibacterial property.
  • the cohesive connection of the knitted spacer fabric with the shoe upper can be made, for example, by welding and / or by gluing, in particular by means of a breathable adhesive.
  • the shoe can comprise a midsole which is fixed on an underside of the knitted spacer fabric.
  • a midsole can at least partially cover a lateral outer edge of the knitted spacer fabric.
  • the midsole preferably has cushioning properties.
  • the midsole has a three-dimensional profiling on its upper side facing the spacer knitted fabric.
  • the midsole forms a footbed, in particular with the support of the transverse arch and / or the longitudinal arch of the wearer of the shoe.
  • the midsole preferably comprises at least one ventilation recess through which air can escape from the knitted spacer fabric into the surroundings of the shoe.
  • Such a ventilation recess can in particular be arranged on the underside and / or on an outer edge of the midsole.
  • the shoe can comprise an outsole which is attached to an underside of the midsole.
  • the outsole can be attached directly to an underside of the knitted spacer fabric. In principle, it can be provided that the shoe has neither a midsole nor an outsole.
  • the outsole preferably has at least one ventilation recess which is in fluid connection with the at least one ventilation recess of the midsole.
  • the upper carrier layer and / or the lower carrier layer of the knitted spacer fabric preferably comprises at least one elastic yarn.
  • the upper carrier layer or the lower carrier layer contract again when the knitted spacer fabric is relieved of the pressure acting on the knitted spacer fabric when it occurs, and the spacer threads of the intermediate layer stand up again, so that the knitted spacer fabric is restored to its original height, as it was before the pressure load.
  • At least one spacer thread of the intermediate layer has a thickness of at least 0.15 mm, in particular of at least 0.20 mm. It is particularly favorable if all spacer threads of the intermediate layer have a thickness of at least 0.15 mm, in particular of at least 0.20 mm.
  • At least one spacer thread of the intermediate layer has a thickness of at most 0.40 mm, in particular of at most 0.30 mm. It when all spacer threads of the intermediate layer have a thickness of at most 0.40 mm, in particular of at most 0.30 mm, is particularly favorable.
  • At least one spacer thread of the intermediate layer has a thickness of approximately 0.25 mm. It is particularly favorable if all the spacer threads of the intermediate layer have a thickness of approximately 0.25 mm.
  • At least one spacer thread of the intermediate layer is designed as a single thread (monofilament).
  • all spacer threads of the intermediate layer are each designed as a single thread.
  • At least one spacer thread of the intermediate layer is designed as a multifilament.
  • all spacer threads of the intermediate layer are each designed as a multifilament.
  • at least one spacer thread of the intermediate layer comprises a polyethylene material, a polyamide material and / or a polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) material. It is particularly favorable if all spacer threads of the intermediate layer comprise a polyethylene material, a polyamide material and / or a polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) material.
  • At least one spacer thread of the intermediate layer is formed essentially completely from a polyethylene material, a polyamide material and / or a polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) material. It is particularly favorable if all the spacer threads of the intermediate layer are formed essentially completely from a polyethylene material, a polyamide material and / or a polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) material.
  • the elastic yarn in the upper carrier layer and / or in the lower carrier layer is formed from one or more elastic threads with a total fineness of at least 500 dtex.
  • the elastic yarn in the upper carrier layer and / or in the lower carrier layer is formed from one or more elastic threads with a total fineness of at most 700 dtex.
  • the upper carrier layer and / or the lower carrier layer comprises stitches formed from a stitch-forming yarn into which an elastic compression yarn is knitted as a catch insert.
  • the loop-forming yarn comprises at least one elastic thread.
  • the elastic knitting yarn and / or the elastic compression yarn can in particular comprise elastane.
  • the elastic compression yarn and / or the loop-forming yarn comprise a hot-melt adhesive thread.
  • the knitted spacer fabric can be heat-treated.
  • the knitted spacer fabric is steamed at a temperature of preferably at least 90 ° C, in particular at least 100 ° C, and / or preferably at most 130 ° C, in particular at most 120 ° C. It has proven to be particularly advantageous if the knitted spacer fabric is steamed at a temperature of approximately 110 ° C.
  • the heat treatment, in particular the steaming, of the spacer knit causes the elastic yarn or threads to contract in the upper carrier layer and / or in the lower carrier layer of the spacer knitted fabric, whereby the spacer threads of the intermediate layer are further erected.
  • the spacer knitted fabric can be knitted to the desired shape of the sole.
  • the knitted spacer is separated from a knitted or warp-knitted sheet material, for example by punching or cutting out, in particular by laser cutting or by mechanical cutting.
  • the present invention also relates to a method for manufacturing a shoe comprising an upper and a sole.
  • the present invention is based on the further object of using such a method to create a shoe in which moisture is transported away particularly efficiently from the sweaty foot of the wearer of the shoe.
  • this object is achieved by a method for producing a shoe which comprises an upper and a sole which comprises the following:
  • the entire shoe upper is essentially produced as a knitted fabric.
  • the knitted fabric of the shoe upper can be produced by flat knitting.
  • the knitted fabric of the shoe upper is produced by circular knitting.
  • the method according to the invention for producing a shoe is particularly suitable for producing a shoe according to the invention.
  • the shoe according to the invention has a moisture management system which brings about a particularly effective removal of moisture from the sweaty foot of the wearer of the shoe. Furthermore, the development of odor in the shoe is largely avoided.
  • the moisture is preferably transported by the sweaty foot of the wearer into a knitted spacer fabric, where it evaporates particularly effectively.
  • the moisture management system of the shoe according to the invention preferably causes a halo effect, in which the moisture arriving in the upper carrier layer is distributed over a large area by a hydrophilic yarn in the upper carrier layer and the knitted spacer thus acts as a transport accelerator for the moisture in the moisture management system.
  • Moisture caused by the release of sweat at the foot of the wearer can get through the open-meshed knitted fabric of an item of legwear worn by the wearer of the shoe, for example a sock or stocking, if present, and the open-meshed knitted fabric of the shoe upper part in the open-meshed upper carrier layer of the spacer knitted fabric.
  • the moisture then migrates down along the spacer threads of the intermediate layer of the knitted spacer fabric, the spacer threads forcing this moisture transport.
  • the moisture evaporates very quickly through a constant exchange of air, which is caused in the knitted spacer fabric by a pumping effect when walking.
  • the upper and / or the upper carrier layer of the knitted spacer fabric preferably have one or more moisture-conducting yarns in order to promote the effect of the moisture-conducting system.
  • the optional outsole of the shoe serves as protection against slipping as well as protection against excessive wear of the midsole, if any, and / or the knitted spacer fabric.
  • the upper section and / or the sole-side section of the shoe upper can optionally contain at least one yarn with anti-microbial properties.
  • the midsole is preferably made of a shock absorbing material.
  • the midsole comprises an ethylene vinyl acetate (EVA) material and / or a polyurethane (PU) material.
  • EVA ethylene vinyl acetate
  • PU polyurethane
  • the Shore A hardness of the midsole is preferably at least 20 and / or preferably at most 50, in particular at most 40. In particular, it can be provided that the Shore A hardness of the material of the midsole is approximately 30.
  • the outsole can in particular comprise a hard rubber material, a carbon rubber material, a rubber material or a mixture of one of the aforementioned materials.
  • the outsole is preferably formed from one of the aforementioned materials or from a mixture of such materials.
  • the midsole and / or the outsole can be connected to the knitted spacer fabric, for example, by gluing, casting on, injection molding or by producing the midsole or the outsole in a 3D printing process on the knitted spacer fabric.
  • the outsole can be connected to the midsole, if present, by gluing, casting, injection molding or by creating the outsole in a 3D printing process on the midsole.
  • Fig. 1 is a side view of a shoe, which is a knitted shoe
  • Upper part a sole made of a knitted spacer fabric, an intermediate sole with ventilation recesses and an outsole comprises;
  • FIG. 2 is a schematic exploded view of the shoe from FIG. 1, looking towards a side surface of the shoe;
  • FIGS. 3 is a schematic exploded view of the shoe from FIGS.
  • FIGS. 1 to 4 shows a plan view of the outsole of the shoe from FIGS. 1 to
  • FIG. 5 shows a plan view of an upper preform of the shoe from FIGS. 1 to 4;
  • Fig. 6 is a loop diagram showing the production of the Abstandsge knit on a flat knitting machine;
  • Fig. 7 is a loop diagram showing the manufacture of the shoe upper
  • Fig. 8 is a loop diagram showing the manufacture of the shoe upper
  • Fig. 9 is a loop diagram showing the manufacture of the shoe upper
  • FIG. 10 is a loop diagram showing the manufacture of the shoe upper preform on a circular knitting machine according to a third type of weave.
  • a shoe shown in FIGS. 1 to 5, designated as a whole by 100, comprises an upper 102, which is also referred to as "upper", a sole 104 which adjoins an underside of the upper 102 and comprises a knitted spacer fabric 106 midsole 108 adjoining an underside of sole 104, which partially covers a lateral outer edge of knitted fabric 106, and an outsole 110 adjoining the underside of midsole 108.
  • the upper 102 is formed from a knitted fabric 112 which, like a stocking, encloses both an upper side of the foot of the wearer of the shoe 100 and the entire sole of the foot of the wearer of the shoe 100.
  • the shoe upper 102 comprises an upper section 114, which is arranged in the worn state of the shoe 100 on an upper side of the foot of the wearer of the shoe 100, and a sole-side section 116 which in the worn state of the shoe 100 on a sole side of the foot of the wearer of the shoe 100 is arranged.
  • the shoe upper 102 is formed from the shoe upper preform 118 shown in FIG. 5.
  • the upper preform 118 comprises the upper section 114 and two partial areas 120a and 120b of the sole-side section 116 of the upper 102, each of which adjoins one of the opposite edges of the upper section 114 of the upper 102 along a bending line 122a, 122b.
  • the two sole-side subregions 120a and 120b of the sole-side section become 116 at their edges 124a and 124b facing away from the upper section 114 of the upper 102, which edges bear against one another in the final shape of the upper 102, fixed to one another, preferably by sewing.
  • the sewing is carried out by strobeing, that is to say the subregions 120a, 120b of the sole-side section 116 of the shoe upper 102 resting against one another without overlapping are sewn to one another at the edge.
  • a left sub-area 126a and a right sub-area 126b of the upper section 114 of the shoe upper 102 are attached to one another at their rear edges 128a and 128b, for example by sewing.
  • the sewing of the subareas 126a and 126b of the upper portion 114 of the shoe upper 102 is preferably carried out by strobe, that is, the left subarea 126a and the right subarea 126b are sewn to one another without overlapping on edge.
  • the toe of the upper 102 is closed in that the front edges 130a and 130b of the sub-areas 120a and 120b of the sole-side section 116 of the shoe upper 102 each have a front edge 132a of the left sub-area 126a and a front edge 132b of the right sub-area 126b of the upper portion 114 of the shoe upper 102 can be set, for example by sewing.
  • This sewing is preferably done by strobe, that is, the left sub-area 126a of the upper section 114 of the shoe upper 102 is sewn without overlapping on the edge with the left sub-area 120a of the sole-side section 116 of the shoe upper 102, and the right sub-area 126b of the upper section 114 of the shoe upper 102 is sewn without an overlap on the edge with the right partial area 120b of the sole-side section 116 of the shoe upper 102.
  • the shoe upper preform 118 can be knitted on a knitting machine to the shape shown in FIG. 5, or, alternatively, knitted to a larger shape and then separated from the larger shape, for example punched out or cut out.
  • the shoe upper 102 can have lace openings 130 which, for example, are separated from the shoe upper preform 118, for example punched out or cut out, or knitted into the shoe upper preform 118.
  • the shoelace openings 130 serve to receive a shoelace 132 (see FIG. 1).
  • the shoe upper preform 118 is knitted on a flat knitting machine or on a circular knitting machine, the course direction 134 of the knitted fabric 112 of the shoe upper 102 preferably being oriented transversely, in particular perpendicular, to a longitudinal direction 136 of the shoe 100 and a wale direction 138 of the knitted fabric 112 of the shoe upper 102 is preferably aligned parallel to the longitudinal direction 136 of the shoe 100 before.
  • the knitted fabric 112 of the upper 102 comprises an inner layer 140 which, when the shoe 100 is worn, faces the wearer's foot, and an outer layer 142 which, when the shoe 100 is worn, faces away from the wearer's foot.
  • the inner layer 140 comprises a first yarn 146 which contains a hydrophobic synthetic fiber material.
  • the outer layer 142 comprises a second yarn 148 which contains a - preferably hydrophilic - synthetic fiber material and / or a hydrophilic natural fiber material.
  • the first yarn 146 preferably comprises a hydrophobic polyamide material, a hydrophobic polyethylene material and / or a hydrophobic polypropylene material.
  • This yarn preferably has a fineness of at least 500 dtex, in particular special of at least 700 dtex.
  • this yarn preferably has a fineness of at most 1,100 dtex, in particular of at most 900 dtex.
  • five double threads each with a fineness of 78 dtex, can be used, which results in a total fineness of 780 dtex.
  • the second yarn 148 preferably comprises a wool material, a cotton material, a viscose material and / or a lyocell material.
  • the inner layer 140 of the shoe upper 102 can comprise at least one additional yarn, for example an antibacterial yarn.
  • the outer layer 142 of the shoe upper 102 can comprise at least one further yarn, for example at least one additional hydrophilic yarn and / or at least one antibacterial yarn.
  • the shoe upper preform 118 is knitted on a flat knitting machine as shown schematically in the loop diagram of FIG.
  • the knitting processes for successive courses 152 are each separated from one another by a horizontal continuous line 144.
  • the upper row of dots symbolizes the rear row of needles of the flat knitting machine and the lower row of dots the front row of needles of the flat knitting machine.
  • the outer layer 142 is knitted from the second yarn 148 with the front row of needles.
  • the inner layer 140 is knitted from the first yarn 146 with the rear row of needles.
  • the inner layer 140 is knitted from the first yarn with the front row of needles and the outer layer 142 is knitted from the second yarn with the rear row of needles.
  • the loop pattern of FIG. 7 shows, by way of example, a preferred type of weave for producing the shoe upper preform 118 on a flat knitting machine. For design reasons in particular, other bonds can also be knitted, but always with a back and a front row being knitted.
  • a row 152 in which the front row of needles is operated is followed in the exemplary embodiment according to FIG. 7 by a row 152 in which the rear row of needles is operated.
  • one stitch is knitted with each needle 150, so that a continuous knitted fabric is produced in both the inner layer 140 and the outer layer 142.
  • the shoe upper preform 118 is knitted according to a different type of weave, in which the first yarn 146 and / or the second yarn 148 is knitted partly in the rear row of needles and partly in the front row of needles.
  • the yarn can be fetched from the rear needle bed into the front needle bed and / or the yarn from the front needle bed into the rear needle bed
  • the inner layer 140 is formed predominantly from the first yarn 146 and / or the outer layer 142 is formed predominantly from the second yarn 148.
  • the upper 102 can also be produced on a circular knitting machine, as shown schematically in FIG. 8.
  • FIG. 8 shows the loop pattern of the circular knitting machine for a first type of weave.
  • Each needle 150 of the circular knitting machine is shown twice in each knitting row 152 in order to show the different knit weaves with which the first yarn 146 in the inner layer 140 and the second yarn 148 in the outer layer 142 are knitted.
  • a loop is knitted from the second yarn 148 in each knitting course 152 with each needle 150.
  • the first thread 146 is laid in a 1: 3 tying weave, that is, the first thread 146 is laid on a needle 150a and lies float over the three subsequent needles 150, whereupon it is then again in the next needle 150a is inserted.
  • the needles 150a into which the first yarn 146 is inserted in successive rows of knitting 152, are offset from one another, for example by two needles 150 each. Both the first yarn 146 and the second yarn 148 are preferably each composed of several threads.
  • the first yarn 146 is laid in a tuck binding 1: 1, that is, the first yarn 146 is laid on a needle 150a and lies over the next one Needle 150 floating, whereupon it is then inserted again into the next needle 150a.
  • the needles into which the first yarn 146 is inserted in successive rows of knitting 152 are each offset from one another by one needle 150.
  • a third type of weave the loop pattern of which is shown on a circular knitting machine in FIG. 10, the first thread 146 is laid in a tuck weave 1: 1 as in the second type of weave shown in FIG a needle 150a is inserted and lies afloat over the next needle 150, whereupon it is then inserted again into the next needle 150a.
  • the needles 150a, into which the first yarn 146 is inserted in successive rows of knitting 152, are not offset from one another.
  • the types of weave with offset or without offset of the needles 150a, into which the first yarn 146 is inserted in successive rows of knitting 152, do not differ functionally, but only with regard to their appearance.
  • the first thread 146 can be laid in a 1: 5 tying weave, that is, the first thread 146 is laid on a needle 150a and lies float above the five subsequent needles 150, whereupon it is then inserted again into the next needle 150a.
  • the needles 150a, into which the first yarn 146 is inserted in successive rows of knitting 152, can be offset from one another by any number of needles 150 or not offset from one another.
  • the first thread 146 can be laid in a tuck tie 1: n, that is, the first thread 146 is laid on a needle 150a and lies float over the n subsequent needles, whereupon it is then inserted again into the next needle 150a.
  • the needles 150a into which the first yarn 146 is inserted in successive rows of knitting 152, can be offset from one another by any number of needles 150 or not offset from one another.
  • the inner layer 150 is the most voluminous when using a 1: 3 or 1: 5 tuck bond.
  • first yarn 146 and the second yarn 148 can also be interchanged with one another, that is to say the first yarn 146 is then knitted in the outer layer 142 and the second yarn 148 is knitted in the inner layer 140.
  • the second yarn 148 contains a, preferably hydrophobic, polyamide material, polyethylene material and / or polypropylene material.
  • the second thread 148 is identical to the first thread 146.
  • the knitted spacer fabric 106 from which the sole 104 is formed and which is also referred to as a “spacer” comprises an upper carrier layer 154, a lower carrier layer 156 and an intermediate layer 158 arranged between the upper carrier layer 154 and the lower carrier layer 156.
  • the upper carrier layer 154 and the lower carrier layer 156 are preferably identical to one another.
  • the upper carrier layer 154 and the lower carrier layer 156 are each formed from a plurality of elastic threads, in particular special elastane threads, with a total fineness of 500 dtex to 700 dtex.
  • the upper carrier layer 154 and the lower carrier layer 156 are each formed from six elastane threads, each with a fineness of 104 dtex.
  • the intermediate layer 158 is formed from stiff spacer threads 160, which are also referred to as pile threads.
  • These stiff spacer threads 160 hold the upper carrier layer 154 and the lower carrier layer 156 at a distance from one another.
  • the spacer threads 160 can each be designed as a single thread (monofilament) or as a multifilament (twisted from several threads).
  • the spacer threads 160 can in particular comprise polyethylene, polyamide and / or polybutylene terephthalate (PBT).
  • the thickness of the spacer threads is preferably at least 0.15 mm.
  • the thickness of the spacer threads is preferably at most 0.40 mm.
  • the knitted spacer can be knitted as a sheet material from which the sole 104 is separated in the desired shape, for example by punching, laser cutting or mechanical cutting.
  • the knitted spacer fabric 106 can already be knitted with the desired outer contour on the knitting machine.
  • the knitted spacer fabric 106 is preferably produced or knitted on a flat knitting machine.
  • knitted rows 152 follow one another from top to bottom and are separated from one another by horizontal solid lines 162.
  • each knitting row 152 the upper points symbolize the needles 150 of the rear row of needles and the lower points symbolize the needles 150 of the front row of needles of the flat knitting machine.
  • the intermediate layer 158 of the knitted spacer fabric 106 is produced in the first region 164 of the loop pattern of FIG. 6 by inserting the spacer thread 160 alternately into a needle 150a of the rear row of needles and a needle 150a of the front row of needles.
  • the spacer thread 160 is inserted as a catch in every fifteenth needle both in the rear row of needles and in the front row of needles, so that the spacer thread 160 lies afloat over 14 needles in each row of needles.
  • the number n of needles over which the spacer thread 160 is floating can be selected freely.
  • the needles 150a into which the spacer thread 160 is inserted as a catch, are offset from one another in such a way that the spacer thread 160 is finally inserted into each needle 150.
  • an elastic compression yarn 168 is inserted as a catch into every second needle 150a of the front row of needles and into every second needle 150a of the rear row of needles.
  • the elastic compression yarn can also be tucked into every m-th needle 150a of the front row of needles and into every m-th needle 150a of the rear row of needles, with m> 2.
  • the loops of the upper carrier layer 154 and the lower carrier layer 156 of the spacer knitted fabric 106 are then formed in the third area 170 of the loop pattern of FIG 150 of the back row of needles is inserted and knitted.
  • the elastic Maschenbil formation yarn 172 is in each case afloat.
  • This process is repeated until one stitch has been knitted from each needle 150 of the front needle row and each needle 150 of the rear needle row.
  • the elastic compression yarn 168 is knitted into the stitches of the elastic stitching yarn 172 as a catch insert, so that the elastic compression yarn 168 remains in the upper carrier layer 154 or in the lower carrier layer 156 and not in the Interlayer 158 is pulled.
  • the knitted spacer fabric 106 is given a high degree of elasticity by the knitting technique described.
  • pressure is exerted from above, that is, from the side of the upper part 102, on the knitted spacer fabric 106, the stitches of the upper carrier layer 154 and the lower carrier layer 156 are pressed wide, and the spacer threads 160 lie flat, whereby the knitted spacer fabric 106 in total including becomes flatter.
  • the upper carrier layer 154 and the lower carrier layer 156 contract again due to the resilience of the stitches made from the elastic stitch-forming yarn 172 and due to the elastic restoring force of the elastic compression yarn 168 inserted as a catch, and the spacer threads 160 provide up again, so that the knitted spacer fabric 106 regains its original height.
  • the elastic compression yarn 168 and the elastic knitting yarn 172 form elastic yarns 174 contained in the upper carrier layer 154 and in the lower carrier layer 156 of the spacer knitted fabric 106.
  • the elastic knitting yarn 172 can for example consist of two threads of polyamide and two threads of elastane, which are knitted together like one thread.
  • the elastic compression yarn 168 can consist of two or more threads of elastane, for example.
  • the elastic loop-forming yarn 172 can consist of n threads of elastane, for example four threads of elastane, which are knitted together like one thread.
  • the elastic compression yarn 168 can in this case consist of two threads of elastane.
  • the elastic loop-forming yarn 172 can consist of four threads of elastane which are knitted together like one thread.
  • the elastic compression yarn can consist of two threads of elastane and an additional hot-melt adhesive thread.
  • the knitted spacer fabric 106 produced on the flat knitting machine is preferably steamed at a temperature of 90.degree. C. to 130.degree. C., in particular at a temperature of 110.degree.
  • the elastic yarns 174 in the upper carrier layer 154 and in the lower carrier layer 156 contract, which causes the spacer threads 160 in the intermediate layer 158 to straighten up further.
  • the upper carrier layer 154 of the knitted spacer fabric 106 of the sole 104 can comprise, in addition to the elastic yarns 174 or instead of one of the elastic yarns 174, a yarn with hydrophilic properties and / or a yarn with antibacterial properties.
  • the sole 104 designed as a knitted spacer fabric 106, is preferably cohesively connected to the sole-side section 116 of the shoe upper 102, in particular by welding or by gluing, for example by means of a breathable adhesive.
  • the entire area of the top 176 of the knitted spacer fabric 106, which faces the upper 102, is preferably not cohesively connected to the upper 102, but rather remains Part of the surface of the upper side 176 of the knitted spacer fabric 106 not connected to the shoe upper 102.
  • an outer edge of the knitted spacer fabric 106 is materially connected to the upper 102 of the shoe.
  • connection area of the upper side 176 of the knitted spacer fabric 106 facing the upper 102 which is materially connected to the upper 102, preferably comprises at least 30%, in particular at least 50%, of the area of the upper side 176 of the knitted spacer fabric 106 facing the upper 102.
  • the materially bonded connection area of the upper side 176 of the knitted spacer fabric 106 facing the upper 102 comprises at most 90%, in particular at most 80%, of the area of the upper side 176 of the knitted spacer fabric 106 facing the upper 102.
  • the midsole 108 preferably comprises a shock absorbing material, for example a polyurethane material and / or an ethylene vinyl acetate (EVA) material.
  • a shock absorbing material for example a polyurethane material and / or an ethylene vinyl acetate (EVA) material.
  • EVA ethylene vinyl acetate
  • the Shore A hardness of the material of the midsole 108 is preferably at least 20 and / or preferably at most 50.
  • the Shore A hardness of the material of the midsole 108 can be approximately 30.
  • the midsole 108 can be fixed to the knitted spacer fabric 106, for example, by gluing, casting on, injection molding or by applying the midsole 108 to the knitted spacer fabric 106 in a 3D printing process.
  • the midsole 108 is preferably pulled upwards at its outer edge over the outer edge of the sole 104 designed as a knitted spacer fabric 106 (see FIG. 1).
  • the midsole 108 is provided with ventilation recesses 178 along its outer edge and / or on its underside (see FIGS. 1 and 2).
  • the midsole 108 has a three-dimensional profiling on its upper side 180, which faces the knitted spacer fabric 106, which elevations corresponding to a healthy footbed, in particular to support the longitudinal arch and the transverse arch of the foot of the wearer of the shoe 100, includes.
  • the three-dimensional profiling of the midsole 108 is pushed upward through the sole 104, which is formed from the knitted spacer fabric 106, and through the sole-side section 116 of the shoe upper 102, so that in the interior of the shoe upper 102 on the sole of the foot of the wearer of the shoe 100 a footbed is created.
  • the same does not have any three-dimensional profiling; In this case, it can be useful to insert an insole, preferably air-permeable, into the upper 102 of the shoe.
  • the outsole 110 arranged under the midsole 108 and fixed to the midsole 108 is preferably formed from a rubber material, from a hard rubber material, from a carbon rubber material or from a mixture of such materials.
  • the outer sole 110 serves to protect the wearer of the shoe 100 from slipping and to protect the shoe 100, in particular the midsole 108, from excessive wear.
  • the outer sole 110 has ventilation recesses 182 on its outer edge and / or on its underside, which are essentially aligned with a respective ventilation recess 178 of the midsole 108, whereby the intermediate layer 158 of the knitted spacer fabric 106 passes through the ventilation recesses 178 of the midsole 108 and the venting recesses 182 of the outsole 110 is in contact with the surroundings of the shoe 100, so that moist air from the intermediate layer 158 of the spacer knitted fabric 106 through the venting recesses 178 of the midsole 108 and through the venting recesses 182 of the outsole 110 can escape into the vicinity of the shoe 100.
  • a moisture management system is formed in the same, which makes it possible to transport moisture from the sweaty foot of the wearer of the shoe 100 out of the shoe 100 and largely to prevent the formation of odorous substances.
  • the moisture generated by the formation of sweat when the shoe 100 is worn gets through the meshes of a knitted sock which the wearer of the shoe 100 wears and which is preferably formed from one or more yarns with hydrophilic properties, and through the meshes of the knitted fabric 112 of the The sole-side section 116 of the upper 102 and through the open meshes of the upper carrier layer 154 the sole 104 designed as a spacer knitted fabric 106 into the intermediate layer 158 of the spacer knitted fabric 106 spanned by the spacer threads 160, where this moisture evaporates.
  • the moist air is removed from the intermediate layer 158 of the spacer knitted fabric 106 through the outer edge of the spacer knitted fabric 106 to the side and through the ventilation recesses 178 of the midsole 108 and through the ventilation recesses 182 of the outsole 110 the surroundings of the shoe 100 are pressed.
  • the knitted spacer fabric 106 thus acts as a moisture removal accelerator in the moisture management system of the shoe 100.
  • the moisture arriving in the upper carrier layer 154 of the knitted fabric 106 is quickly distributed over the largest possible area. The moisture then migrates along the spacer threads 160 down into the intermediate layer 158, the spacer threads 160 forcing this moisture transport.
  • the moisture evaporates essentially completely through the constant exchange of air in the spacer knitted fabric 106, which is caused by the pumping effect when the wearer of the shoe 100 walks.
  • the shoe upper 102 and / or the upper carrier layer 154 of the spacer knitted fabric 106 each comprises at least one yarn with antibacterial or anti-microbial properties, the formation of odorous substances in these areas of the shoe 100 can essentially be completely prevented.
  • the midsole 108 is optional; as an alternative to this, it can also be provided that the outer sole 110 is arranged directly on the spacer rope 106.
  • outsole 110 is also optional; alternatively, only the midsole 108 can be arranged on the underside of the knitted spacer fabric 106, or the knitted spacer fabric 106 is used without a midsole 108 and without an outer sole 110.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Wood Science & Technology (AREA)
  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une chaussure comprenant une partie supérieure de chaussure et une semelle, la partie supérieure de chaussure comprenant une partie supérieure qui, lorsque la chaussure est portée, est disposée sur un côté supérieur du pied de l'utilisateur de la chaussure, et la partie supérieure de la partie supérieure de chaussure comprend un tissu, dans lequel l'humidité résultant d'une transpiration du pied de l'utilisateur de la chaussure est particulièrement efficacement retirée de l'intérieur de la chaussure. Selon l'invention, la partie supérieure de chaussure comprend une partie côté semelle qui, lorsque la chaussure est portée, est disposée sur un seul côté du pied de l'utilisateur de la chaussure, la partie côté semelle comprenant un tissu et la partie supérieure et/ou la partie côté semelle de la partie supérieure de chaussure comprenant un premier fil contenant un matériau de fibre synthétique hydrophobe et un second fil contenant un matériau de fibre synthétique ou un matériau de fibre naturelle hydrophile.
EP20758214.9A 2019-08-30 2020-08-19 Chaussure et procédé de fabrication d'une chaussure Active EP4021237B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102019123365.8A DE102019123365A1 (de) 2019-08-30 2019-08-30 Schuh und Verfahren zum Herstellen eines Schuhs
PCT/EP2020/073250 WO2021037642A1 (fr) 2019-08-30 2020-08-19 Chaussure et procédé de fabrication d'une chaussure

Publications (3)

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EP4021237A1 true EP4021237A1 (fr) 2022-07-06
EP4021237C0 EP4021237C0 (fr) 2024-03-27
EP4021237B1 EP4021237B1 (fr) 2024-03-27

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DE (1) DE102019123365A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2021037642A1 (fr)

Family Cites Families (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
AU1977192A (en) * 1991-06-17 1993-01-12 Puma Aktiengesellschaft Rudolf Dassler Sport Method of producing a shaped shoe part from a strip of fabric, and a shaped shoe part produced by this method
US8490299B2 (en) * 2008-12-18 2013-07-23 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear having an upper incorporating a knitted component
FR2999881B1 (fr) * 2012-12-21 2015-06-12 Salomon Sas Article chaussant a structure simplifiee
DE102013207156A1 (de) * 2013-04-19 2014-10-23 Adidas Ag Schuh, insbesondere ein Sportschuh
DE102013207153B4 (de) * 2013-04-19 2019-11-07 Adidas Ag An die Fußform angepasster Schuh
US9145629B2 (en) * 2014-02-03 2015-09-29 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear including a monofilament knit element with a fusible strand
DE102016201973B4 (de) * 2016-02-10 2020-06-18 Adidas Ag Schuhoberteil für Sportschuhe
US11712077B2 (en) * 2015-10-30 2023-08-01 Milliken & Company Three-dimensional channeled fabric structure for garments and/or footwear
CN208192344U (zh) * 2018-02-11 2018-12-07 三六一度（福建）体育用品有限公司 一种鞋底气垫及气垫鞋

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EP4021237C0 (fr) 2024-03-27
DE102019123365A1 (de) 2021-03-04
EP4021237B1 (fr) 2024-03-27
WO2021037642A1 (fr) 2021-03-04

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