EP3784357A1 - Poudre libre de cire et procede de fabrication d'une telle poudre - Google Patents
Poudre libre de cire et procede de fabrication d'une telle poudreInfo
- Publication number
- EP3784357A1 EP3784357A1 EP19726468.2A EP19726468A EP3784357A1 EP 3784357 A1 EP3784357 A1 EP 3784357A1 EP 19726468 A EP19726468 A EP 19726468A EP 3784357 A1 EP3784357 A1 EP 3784357A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- powder
- wax
- products
- powder according
- particles
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Withdrawn
Links
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- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 14
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 34
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- -1 fatty acid esters Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 claims description 43
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 claims description 23
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 22
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 claims description 19
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 claims description 15
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 claims description 14
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- 238000000889 atomisation Methods 0.000 claims description 9
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- 238000002844 melting Methods 0.000 claims description 8
- 230000008018 melting Effects 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000007789 gas Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000004359 castor oil Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 235000019438 castor oil Nutrition 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N glycerol triricinoleate Natural products CCCCCC[C@@H](O)CC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](COC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@@H](O)CCCCCC)OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@H](O)CCCCCC ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 235000013336 milk Nutrition 0.000 claims description 5
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- WBHHMMIMDMUBKC-XLNAKTSKSA-N ricinelaidic acid Chemical compound CCCCCC[C@@H](O)C\C=C\CCCCCCCC(O)=O WBHHMMIMDMUBKC-XLNAKTSKSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 229960003656 ricinoleic acid Drugs 0.000 claims description 3
- FEUQNCSVHBHROZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N ricinoleic acid Natural products CCCCCCC(O[Si](C)(C)C)CC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC FEUQNCSVHBHROZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000000926 separation method Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- OZSKVMIBRHDIET-UHFFFAOYSA-N 12-hydroxy-n-(2-hydroxyethyl)octadecanamide Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)CCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NCCO OZSKVMIBRHDIET-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 208000001840 Dandruff Diseases 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000654 additive Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000000996 additive effect Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000003656 anti-hair-loss Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000004061 bleaching Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000012159 carrier gas Substances 0.000 claims description 2
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- 239000000118 hair dye Substances 0.000 claims description 2
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- 239000007924 injection Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000006210 lotion Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000006224 matting agent Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000002304 perfume Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000011084 recovery Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000005201 scrubbing Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000002453 shampoo Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000001953 sensory effect Effects 0.000 description 24
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 description 20
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 description 16
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 14
- 229920000299 Nylon 12 Polymers 0.000 description 12
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 description 7
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 241000196324 Embryophyta Species 0.000 description 6
- 230000007423 decrease Effects 0.000 description 6
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- 241000219094 Vitaceae Species 0.000 description 5
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- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 5
- 239000000454 talc Substances 0.000 description 5
- 229910052623 talc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 5
- 229920000571 Nylon 11 Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 239000003208 petroleum Substances 0.000 description 4
- 229940068196 placebo Drugs 0.000 description 4
- 239000000902 placebo Substances 0.000 description 4
- 238000001556 precipitation Methods 0.000 description 4
- YGSDEFSMJLZEOE-UHFFFAOYSA-N salicylic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O YGSDEFSMJLZEOE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 4
- GHOKWGTUZJEAQD-ZETCQYMHSA-N (D)-(+)-Pantothenic acid Chemical compound OCC(C)(C)[C@@H](O)C(=O)NCCC(O)=O GHOKWGTUZJEAQD-ZETCQYMHSA-N 0.000 description 3
- LEACJMVNYZDSKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-octyldodecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCC(CO)CCCCCCCC LEACJMVNYZDSKR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 238000004438 BET method Methods 0.000 description 3
- JHWNWJKBPDFINM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Laurolactam Chemical compound O=C1CCCCCCCCCCCN1 JHWNWJKBPDFINM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000004458 analytical method Methods 0.000 description 3
- BTFJIXJJCSYFAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N arachidyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BTFJIXJJCSYFAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 3
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 3
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000003801 milling Methods 0.000 description 3
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 238000003786 synthesis reaction Methods 0.000 description 3
- 235000013311 vegetables Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- QUBNFZFTFXTLKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-aminododecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCC(N)C(O)=O QUBNFZFTFXTLKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- UQSXHKLRYXJYBZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron oxide Chemical compound [Fe]=O UQSXHKLRYXJYBZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 241001465754 Metazoa Species 0.000 description 2
- 229920000426 Microplastic Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 235000004443 Ricinus communis Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicium dioxide Chemical compound O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229920003734 UBESTA® Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 241001135917 Vitellaria paradoxa Species 0.000 description 2
- 235000018936 Vitellaria paradoxa Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 241000219095 Vitis Species 0.000 description 2
- 235000009754 Vitis X bourquina Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 235000012333 Vitis X labruscana Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 235000014787 Vitis vinifera Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 230000008901 benefit Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000005056 compaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000470 constituent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 238000004090 dissolution Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000003344 environmental pollutant Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000013305 food Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 210000000245 forearm Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 238000000227 grinding Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000000265 homogenisation Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000006872 improvement Effects 0.000 description 2
- 229910052500 inorganic mineral Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 239000010445 mica Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229910052618 mica group Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 239000011707 mineral Substances 0.000 description 2
- PBLZLIFKVPJDCO-UHFFFAOYSA-N omega-Aminododecanoic acid Natural products NCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O PBLZLIFKVPJDCO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- FJKROLUGYXJWQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N papa-hydroxy-benzoic acid Natural products OC(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 FJKROLUGYXJWQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 230000035515 penetration Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 2
- 231100000719 pollutant Toxicity 0.000 description 2
- 229920003229 poly(methyl methacrylate) Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 239000004926 polymethyl methacrylate Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000011148 porous material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 235000019592 roughness Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 229960004889 salicylic acid Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- PQUXFUBNSYCQAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-(2,3-difluorophenyl)ethanone Chemical compound CC(=O)C1=CC=CC(F)=C1F PQUXFUBNSYCQAL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecanoic acid Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O XDOFQFKRPWOURC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ABEXEQSGABRUHS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 16-methylheptadecyl 16-methylheptadecanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C ABEXEQSGABRUHS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- QCDWFXQBSFUVSP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-phenoxyethanol Chemical compound OCCOC1=CC=CC=C1 QCDWFXQBSFUVSP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000005995 Aluminium silicate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002028 Biomass Substances 0.000 description 1
- OYPRJOBELJOOCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N Calcium Chemical compound [Ca] OYPRJOBELJOOCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004215 Carbon black (E152) Substances 0.000 description 1
- SRBFZHDQGSBBOR-IOVATXLUSA-N D-xylopyranose Chemical compound O[C@@H]1COC(O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O SRBFZHDQGSBBOR-IOVATXLUSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 241001553290 Euphorbia antisyphilitica Species 0.000 description 1
- 240000002989 Euphorbia neriifolia Species 0.000 description 1
- 241000447437 Gerreidae Species 0.000 description 1
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002472 Starch Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229910010413 TiO 2 Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- LPGFSDGXTDNTCB-UHFFFAOYSA-N [3-(16-methylheptadecanoyloxy)-2,2-bis(16-methylheptadecanoyloxymethyl)propyl] 16-methylheptadecanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C)(COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C LPGFSDGXTDNTCB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000012211 aluminium silicate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000001408 amides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000010539 anionic addition polymerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000033228 biological regulation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000014121 butter Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- VTYYLEPIZMXCLO-UHFFFAOYSA-L calcium carbonate Substances [Ca+2].[O-]C([O-])=O VTYYLEPIZMXCLO-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 229910000019 calcium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000013869 carnauba wax Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004203 carnauba wax Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000004523 catalytic cracking Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000007765 cera alba Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940081733 cetearyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- MXOAEAUPQDYUQM-UHFFFAOYSA-N chlorphenesin Chemical compound OCC(O)COC1=CC=C(Cl)C=C1 MXOAEAUPQDYUQM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000002860 competitive effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000012141 concentrate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003247 decreasing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001419 dependent effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000013461 design Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000011161 development Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009826 distribution Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005265 energy consumption Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007613 environmental effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000002349 favourable effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003205 fragrance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229930182478 glucoside Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 150000008131 glucosides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000005431 greenhouse gas Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 description 1
- 230000007794 irritation Effects 0.000 description 1
- NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N kaolin Chemical compound O.O.O=[Al]O[Si](=O)O[Si](=O)O[Al]=O NLYAJNPCOHFWQQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000002632 lipids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000005923 long-lasting effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- ZLNQQNXFFQJAID-UHFFFAOYSA-L magnesium carbonate Chemical compound [Mg+2].[O-]C([O-])=O ZLNQQNXFFQJAID-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 239000001095 magnesium carbonate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910000021 magnesium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 description 1
- GQEZCXVZFLOKMC-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-alpha-hexadecene Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC=C GQEZCXVZFLOKMC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 description 1
- GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N octanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(O)=O WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003348 petrochemical agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960005323 phenoxyethanol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229920003023 plastic Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004033 plastic Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000006116 polymerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000244 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010482 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940068968 polysorbate 80 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229920000053 polysorbate 80 Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000007670 refining Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000005070 sampling Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000002374 sebum Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000035945 sensitivity Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000377 silicon dioxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- RYMZZMVNJRMUDD-HGQWONQESA-N simvastatin Chemical compound C([C@H]1[C@@H](C)C=CC2=C[C@H](C)C[C@@H]([C@H]12)OC(=O)C(C)(C)CC)C[C@@H]1C[C@@H](O)CC(=O)O1 RYMZZMVNJRMUDD-HGQWONQESA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940047670 sodium acrylate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000002689 soil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005507 spraying Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000008107 starch Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019698 starch Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000004230 steam cracking Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000002194 synthesizing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000010792 warming Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002699 waste material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003643 water by type Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000003911 water pollution Methods 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
- C08J—WORKING-UP; GENERAL PROCESSES OF COMPOUNDING; AFTER-TREATMENT NOT COVERED BY SUBCLASSES C08B, C08C, C08F, C08G or C08H
- C08J3/00—Processes of treating or compounding macromolecular substances
- C08J3/12—Powdering or granulating
- C08J3/122—Pulverisation by spraying
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
- A61K8/022—Powders; Compacted Powders
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
- A61K8/025—Explicitly spheroidal or spherical shape
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/42—Amides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/925—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of animal origin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
- A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
- B29B—PREPARATION OR PRETREATMENT OF THE MATERIAL TO BE SHAPED; MAKING GRANULES OR PREFORMS; RECOVERY OF PLASTICS OR OTHER CONSTITUENTS OF WASTE MATERIAL CONTAINING PLASTICS
- B29B9/00—Making granules
- B29B9/10—Making granules by moulding the material, i.e. treating it in the molten state
-
- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
- B29B—PREPARATION OR PRETREATMENT OF THE MATERIAL TO BE SHAPED; MAKING GRANULES OR PREFORMS; RECOVERY OF PLASTICS OR OTHER CONSTITUENTS OF WASTE MATERIAL CONTAINING PLASTICS
- B29B9/00—Making granules
- B29B9/12—Making granules characterised by structure or composition
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/10—General cosmetic use
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
- A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/805—Corresponding aspects not provided for by any of codes A61K2800/81 - A61K2800/95
-
- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
- B29B—PREPARATION OR PRETREATMENT OF THE MATERIAL TO BE SHAPED; MAKING GRANULES OR PREFORMS; RECOVERY OF PLASTICS OR OTHER CONSTITUENTS OF WASTE MATERIAL CONTAINING PLASTICS
- B29B9/00—Making granules
- B29B9/12—Making granules characterised by structure or composition
- B29B2009/125—Micropellets, microgranules, microparticles
-
- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
- C08J—WORKING-UP; GENERAL PROCESSES OF COMPOUNDING; AFTER-TREATMENT NOT COVERED BY SUBCLASSES C08B, C08C, C08F, C08G or C08H
- C08J2391/00—Characterised by the use of oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof
- C08J2391/06—Waxes
Definitions
- Wax-free powder and method of making such a powder Wax-free powder and method of making such a powder
- the present invention relates to fine powders, such as those used in cosmetics, pharmacy or perfumery.
- the present invention relates more particularly to a fine powder of wax derived from renewable materials.
- the invention also relates to a process for producing such a powder from renewable raw materials.
- the raw materials used for the synthesis of these ingredients are obtained by steam cracking or catalytic cracking of petroleum fractions.
- the use of these materials contributes to the increase of the greenhouse effect. Given the decline in global oil reserves, the source of these commodities will gradually be depleted.
- Raw materials from biomass are renewable and have a reduced impact on the environment. They do not require all the refining steps (very expensive in energy) of the products oil. The production of CO2 is reduced so that they contribute less to global warming.
- the present invention therefore aims to provide a fine powder, which meets the various requirements set out above, both in terms of efficiency, texture, sensory qualities and in terms of ecological and biological ethics.
- fine powder means a powder of particles having a median diameter by volume (hereinafter D50 or D50v) of less than 30 ⁇ m, preferably less than 20 ⁇ m, preferably included in the range of 2 to 20 ⁇ m, preferably 5 to 18 ⁇ m, preferably 7 to 15 ⁇ m, preferably 10 to 15 ⁇ m. according to standard ISO 13319: 2007.
- porous particles particles having pores. Porosity is characterized quantitatively by the specific surface (also called SSA).
- the porous particles of the invention have an SSA measured according to the BET method greater than or equal to 8 m 2 / g.
- the BET method (BRUNAUER-EMMET-TELLER) is a method well known to those skilled in the art. It is described in particular in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol.60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponds to the international standard 1SO 5794/1 (Appendix D).
- the specific surface area measured according to the BET method corresponds to the total surface area, that is to say that it includes the surface formed by the pores.
- free powder particles denotes particles that are not grouped together in the form of aggregates or agglomerates.
- smooth surface particles particles whose surface is free of roughness.
- powders commonly used in cosmetics mention may be made of those of mineral origin (talc, silica, kaolin, sericite, calcium or magnesium carbonate); oxides (TiO 2, ZnO); those of vegetable origin (starch); those of animal origin (silk powder); and those of synthetic origin: polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA), nylon 12 or polyamide 12 (PA 12).
- mineral origin talc, silica, kaolin, sericite, calcium or magnesium carbonate
- oxides TiO 2, ZnO
- those of vegetable origin starch
- those of animal origin sik powder
- synthetic origin polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA), nylon 12 or polyamide 12 (PA 12).
- the powders of mineral origin have lower sensory properties than synthetic powders. Their touch is often rough and dry. They can dry the skin and give rise to irritation.
- the polyamide 12 powders although of petroleum origin, are particularly appreciated in cosmetics for the soft and soft touch characteristic they confer on the formulations.
- PA 12 is also suitable for makeup formulations (eye shadows, foundation, lipstick, mascara ...), care formulations (day creams, night cream, body milk), formulations solar products, etc.
- the powders must have an average particle size of less than 100 ⁇ m, preferably less than 50 ⁇ m, and more preferably less than 20 ⁇ m.
- PA 12 powder for cosmetic formulation By way of example of PA 12 powder for cosmetic formulation, mention may be made of commercial products: Orgasol 2002 EXD NAT COS (ARKEMA), Nylonpoly WL 10 (Color Creation), Covabead N12-10 (LCW), SP500 (TORAY), UBESTA (UBE), Tegolon 12-20 (Evonik). Different manufacturing processes make it possible to produce polyamide 12 powders, and each lead to different powder characteristics.
- Examples that may be mentioned include direct synthesis processes which lead to polyamide 12 powders by polymerization of lauryl lactam or of amino dodecanoic acid. Depending on the type of process, it is possible to obtain perfectly spherical non-porous powders or porous spheroidal powders. In the latter case, mention may be made of PA 12 powders, marketed by ARKEMA France under the name ORGASOL®.
- the patent application DE4421454 describes a process for synthesizing polyamide powder 12 by dissolution and precipitation, the object of the invention in this application being to obtain a powder PA 12 of spherical shape and narrow particle size.
- the process used requires the use of a polyamide of molecular weight and viscosity sufficiently large to allow its precipitation.
- the powder obtained after precipitation has a diameter such that grinding under severe conditions is necessary to obtain a fine powder with a diameter of less than 30 ⁇ m.
- the lauryllactam and amino-dodecanoic acid polymerized to obtain these PA 12 powders are derived from petrochemistry.
- these processes use large quantities of solvents, themselves derived from petrochemicals.
- polyamide 11 powders are made from raw materials of plant origin.
- Vegetable matter has the advantage of being able to be grown in large quantities, depending on the demand, on most of the terrestrial globe and to be renewable.
- a renewable raw material is a resource natural, animal or plant, whose stock can be reconstituted over a short period on a human scale. In particular, this stock must be renewed as quickly as it is consumed.
- PA 11 is produced by Arkema.
- the raw material of PAU is castor oil, extracted from the plant of the same name (common castor), from castor seeds. It is a robust and inedible crop that does not compete with food crops and grows largely in poor soil in semi-arid regions.
- the Orgasol® Green Touch is an ultra-fine PAU powder with a volume median diameter of approximately 10 ⁇ m, 100% vegetable source, designed to offer both the unique aesthetic properties of nylon powders and the benefits of a renewable raw material. This product offers a velvety and smooth touch, and improved compaction.
- the environmental performance of polyamide li was assessed through the life cycle analysis process, according to ISO 14040-14044.
- the present invention therefore aims to design a new powder not only of renewable origin and high performance in terms of sensory properties, but also biodegradable in water according to the OECD301 standard, and whose development process does not require the intervention of heavy chemical or technological manipulations, expensive in energy or polluting.
- the present invention also aims to provide a fine powder manufacturing process that is simple, fast (with the fewest possible steps), and easy to implement.
- the Applicant Company has now developed new fine sensory powders based on a non-polymeric but biodegradable substance, with preferred but not exclusive fields of use. , are cosmetics, pharmacy and perfumery. The Applicant has also found a method of manufacturing such powder particles by "spray cooling" of the previously melted substance.
- the subject of the present invention is therefore a wax-free powder derived from renewable materials, in which the particles are of particle size such that:
- the volume percentage of particles having a diameter of at least 30 ⁇ m is less than 5%.
- the volume median diameter D 50 v is in the range of from 2 to 20 ⁇ m, preferably from 5 to 18 ⁇ m, preferably from 7 to 15 ⁇ m, and preferably from 10 to 15 ⁇ m.
- the SPAN is less than 1.5, preferably less than or equal to 1.2.
- the content of particles having a diameter of at least 30 ⁇ m is less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, preferably less than 1%.
- the powder particles according to the invention are of substantially spherical shape, and preferably of spherical shape.
- said particles have a sphericity index ls lying in the range from 1 to 1.2, preferably from 1 to 1.1, preferably substantially equal to 1, the ls being measured by the ratio between the largest diameter. of the particle on the smallest diameter of the particle, diameters measured at the SEM.
- the surface of the wax particles is smooth.
- the surface of the particles of the invention is free of roughnesses such as those which can be observed in the case of crushed particles.
- the wax is chosen from natural hydrocarbon waxes comprising one or more of the following functions: ester, amide, acid and / or hydroxyl.
- the wax is chosen from fatty acids, fatty acid esters, fatty acid amides, hydrogenated oils, and mixtures thereof.
- the fatty acids used in the composition of the wax are of plant origin.
- the wax has a melting temperature Tf greater than 70 ° C., preferably in the range of 70 to 160 ° C., preferably 75 to 150 ° C., preferably 80 to 140 ° C., preferably 80 to 130 ° C, preferably 80 to 120 ° C.
- the wax comprises at least 70% of ricinoleic acid, preferably at least 80%, preferably at least 90%, preferably at least 95% of ricinoleic acid.
- the wax comprises hydrogenated castor oil and / or hydroxy stearamide monoethanolamine.
- the particles have an apparent specific surface area in the range of 1 to 20 m 2 / g, preferably 1 to 10 m 2 / g, preferably 1 to 5 m 2 / g.
- the powder according to the invention has an oil uptake, measured according to standard NF 1SO 787-5: 1980 included in the range from 0.3 to 0.9 g of oil / g of powder, preferably of 0.4 to 0.7 g of oil / g of powder, preferably of 0.4 to 0.6 g of oil / g of powder.
- the powder contains at least one additive chosen from cosmetic raw materials, preferably of renewable origin.
- the powder is entirely derived from renewable materials.
- the present invention also relates to a process for manufacturing wax-based loose powder particles, said process comprising the following successive steps:
- the nozzle is designed to ensure the fluidity of the wax during its atomization in the form of microdroplets, said nozzle being a rotating nozzle or a two-fluid nozzle, preferably a rotating nozzle.
- the atomization step is carried out in the presence of a co-injection of hot gas, such as hot air, with a temperature in the range of Tf to Tf + 180 ° C., Tf being the temperature of melting of the wax, preferably from Tf to Tf + 175 ° C, preferably from Tf to Tf + 150 ° C.
- hot gas such as hot air
- the atomization tower is supplied with a cooling vector gas temperature in the range of 10 ° C to 50 ° C, preferably 10 to 35 ° C, preferably 15 to 25 ° C.
- the wax-free powder according to the invention is manufactured by spray-cooling, cold spraying, or cold atomization, of said melted wax, preferably according to the spray cooling method described above according to the invention.
- the present invention also relates to the use of powder according to the invention in cosmetic, pharmaceutical or perfumery products.
- the powder can be used:
- the present invention also relates to a cosmetic, pharmaceutical or perfumery composition characterized in that it comprises powder particles as defined above.
- composition is advantageously a colored, non-colored or transparent product chosen from the following products:
- - make-up products for the face and body such as foundation, tinted cream, loose or compact powder, eyeshadow, mascara, eye liner, lipstick;
- - care products for the face and the human body such as cream, milk, lotion, mask, scrubbing product, cleansing and / or makeup remover, deodorant, antiperspirant, antiperspirant, shaving products, hair removal products;
- - hair products such as shampoos, hair shaping products, hair styling products, anti-dandruff products, anti-hair loss products, hair dry products, hair dyes, bleaching products
- - perfumery products such as perfume, milk, cream, loose powder or compact scented.
- the powder of the invention has sebum control properties, as well as a mattifying effect. It is therefore perfectly adapted to cosmetic products intended for the make-up and / or care of human skin, in particular the face, neck and body, as well as pharmaceutical or perfumery products (fragrance powder for the body or feet for example).
- the powders of the invention offer, by their spherical shape, their particle size, their smooth surface, and their apparent specific surface, improved sensory properties, as well as reinforcing properties, compacting properties and properties. spreading improved compared to powders of the prior art.
- HCO test 1 or HCO 1 hydrogenated castor oil powder obtained by spray-cooling
- HCO test 5 or HCO 5 hydrogenated castor oil powder obtained by spray-cooling
- Orgasol® Green touch Porous spheroidal PAU powder (8-15 mih) obtained by grinding.
- Orgasol® 2002 EXD Nat Cos PA12 spheroidal porous powder (10 gm) obtained directly by anionic polymerization.
- Jagrowax-100 milled or milled J100 is MEA hydroxytearate obtained by jet mill milling mill.
- Powder with a diameter substantially equal to 10 gm of PA 12 (non-renewable origin) and PA 11 (renewable origin) and wax according to the invention or not according to the invention were evaluated in free form by a trained sensory panel composed of 10 people.
- Criticality scale from 0 (lowest score) to 100 (highest score)
- Figure 1 shows the sensory profile of the powders according to the invention compared to that of the powders of the prior art.
- Demineralized water (1 to 4% by mass)
- phase A The ingredients of phase A are weighed and added successively with stirring at 250 rpm at room temperature. The mixture is stirred for one hour to obtain a fluid texture and then heated to 75 ° C. Phase B1 is heated to 75 ° C. and then added to phase A with stirring (250 rpm).
- the mixture is stirred with ultra turax (2510 rpm) to introduce the B2 phase for a few minutes. After introduction, the solution is stirred again slowly (300 rpm) and the temperature is decreased to 35 ° C. Phase C is added with vigorous stirring at 1280 rpm. The mixture is then brought to room temperature for the addition of the phase D1, then D2 until homogenization of the formulation.
- the result is uniform, dull, with no powdery effect.
- the touch is soft and does not stick.
- the tackiness is also reduced in proportion to the addition of Jagrowax in the formulation due to its oil absorption properties.
- the speed of penetration is also increased with the proportion of Jagrowax and leads to a decrease in the stickiness effect.
- Sensitivity profile similar to green touch for the 3% Only the texture will be different and there will be a slight decrease in the ease of spreading.
- Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate sold under the reference DUB PT1S by Stéarinerie Dubois (30.7% by weight)
- phase A The constituents of phase A are weighed and then placed in a water bath (90 ° C) with stirring.
- the Arkema sensory powder is added with stirring (410 rpm). After addition, stirring is maintained for 15 minutes.
- Phase C is then added with stirring (580 rpm, 10 min).
- the lipstick is maintained at 90 ° C and then poured into a previously heated mold at 42 ° C for 2 hours. After being cast, the mold is kept for 15 minutes at room temperature and then for one hour at -18 ° C.
- the result is uniform, matte, the color is homogeneous.
- the touch is soft and does not stick.
- Figure 2 shows the sensory evaluation of sensory powders in lipstick formulations.
- Table 7 Sensory evaluation of sensory powders in red lipid formulations
- the lipstick is held horizontally by tongs, grapes completely out.
- the handle of an empty bucket is deposited at 0.5 mm from the base of the grapes.
- the bucket is filled with water continuously until the grapes break.
- the final amount of added water is weighed.
- the test is repeated 5 times and the average value is selected.
- the graph of FIG. 3 demonstrates a better grape resistance for the powders according to the invention (HCO test 1 and HCO test 5) compared to white and also to the powders of Orgasol® Green touch and Orgasol® 2002 EXD NAT COS.
- Non-spherical Crayvallac PC powder obtained by jet mill milling, also has a high breaking strength but this value proves too high because it prevents a good spread of the lipstick because the grape is too compact, and the color is not homogeneous. In the latter case, it is found that the lipstick is difficult to apply, or even unenforceable.
- the sensory properties obtained for the HCO test 1 and 5 and Jagrowax J100 5C and 6L powders according to the invention are similar to Orgasol® Green Touch, that is to say, a homogeneity of the color and a long-lasting effect.
- the powders according to the invention show excellent reinforcing properties, visible by an improvement in the breaking strength of the grapes.
- Salicylic acid sold under the reference salicylic acid pharma by Cooper Industries (0.2% by mass) Experimental HCO or Jagrowax J100 powder (Arkema) - 10% by mass
- Pigments sold under the reference Unipure by the company Sensient (yellow 0.6% by weight, red 0.4% by weight, black 0.1% by weight and white 3% by mass)
- Octyldodecanol and Octyldodecyl Xyloside sold under the reference Fluidanov 20x by the company Seppic (5.5% by mass)
- phase A The constituents of phase A are weighed and then mixed until homogenization. When the mixture is homogeneous, the Arkema sensory powder is added and mixed. Phase B is then added to the surface of the powder and mixed
- Criticality scale from 0 (lowest rating) to 5 (highest rating)
- Table 8 Sensory profile of the powders in the pressed powder formulations according to the invention compared to the powders of the prior art
- the placebo contains 10% Talc, sold under the reference emprove parteck lub talc by Merck (56.2%).
- Table 9 Tests for falling powder in pressed powder formulations according to the invention compared with the powders of the prior art
- the powder manufacturing process of the invention makes it possible to overcome the consumption of oil, to reduce energy consumption, and to use raw materials derived from the cultivation of plants. It also has a lower manufacturing cost and a favorable energy balance.
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Abstract
Description
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Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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FR1853635A FR3080538A1 (fr) | 2018-04-25 | 2018-04-25 | Poudre libre de cire et procede de fabrication d'une telle poudre |
PCT/FR2019/050952 WO2019207245A1 (fr) | 2018-04-25 | 2019-04-19 | Poudre libre de cire et procede de fabrication d'une telle poudre |
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EP3784357A1 true EP3784357A1 (fr) | 2021-03-03 |
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EP19726468.2A Withdrawn EP3784357A1 (fr) | 2018-04-25 | 2019-04-19 | Poudre libre de cire et procede de fabrication d'une telle poudre |
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US (1) | US20210246272A1 (fr) |
EP (1) | EP3784357A1 (fr) |
JP (1) | JP2021522252A (fr) |
KR (1) | KR20210005642A (fr) |
CN (1) | CN112020381A (fr) |
FR (1) | FR3080538A1 (fr) |
WO (1) | WO2019207245A1 (fr) |
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CN113845671B (zh) * | 2021-09-30 | 2023-06-20 | 江苏天问新材料科技有限公司 | 一种球形聚乙烯蜡的制备方法 |
CN114702699A (zh) * | 2022-04-07 | 2022-07-05 | 江门市德众泰尼龙有限公司 | 聚酰胺粉末的制备方法和聚酰胺粉末 |
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JPH0570598A (ja) * | 1991-09-17 | 1993-03-23 | Daicel Huels Ltd | 化粧品用ポリアミド粉体の製法 |
DE4421454C2 (de) * | 1994-06-18 | 1996-12-12 | Huels Chemische Werke Ag | Verfahren zur Herstellung von Polyamid-Feinstpulvern und deren Verwendung |
FR2927626B1 (fr) * | 2008-02-15 | 2011-02-25 | Arkema France | Poudre fine de polyamide issu de matieres renouvelables et procede de fabrication d'une telle poudre. |
FR2939802A1 (fr) * | 2008-12-17 | 2010-06-18 | Arkema France | Poudre fine de polyamide et procede de fabrication d'une telle poudre |
US20150306021A1 (en) * | 2014-04-23 | 2015-10-29 | Micro Powders, Inc. | Compositions Comprising Natural Waxes |
-
2018
- 2018-04-25 FR FR1853635A patent/FR3080538A1/fr not_active Withdrawn
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2019
- 2019-04-19 JP JP2020559498A patent/JP2021522252A/ja active Pending
- 2019-04-19 KR KR1020207033065A patent/KR20210005642A/ko unknown
- 2019-04-19 CN CN201980028411.2A patent/CN112020381A/zh active Pending
- 2019-04-19 EP EP19726468.2A patent/EP3784357A1/fr not_active Withdrawn
- 2019-04-19 US US17/049,158 patent/US20210246272A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 2019-04-19 WO PCT/FR2019/050952 patent/WO2019207245A1/fr unknown
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KR20210005642A (ko) | 2021-01-14 |
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WO2019207245A1 (fr) | 2019-10-31 |
JP2021522252A (ja) | 2021-08-30 |
CN112020381A (zh) | 2020-12-01 |
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