EP3692196B1 - Denim à filaments lyocellulaires - Google Patents

Denim à filaments lyocellulaires Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3692196B1
EP3692196B1 EP18773444.7A EP18773444A EP3692196B1 EP 3692196 B1 EP3692196 B1 EP 3692196B1 EP 18773444 A EP18773444 A EP 18773444A EP 3692196 B1 EP3692196 B1 EP 3692196B1
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European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
denim
lyocell
yarn
sample
warp
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EP18773444.7A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP3692196A1 (fr
Inventor
Susanne CARLS
Martin Neunteufel
Dieter Eichinger
Christoph Schrempf
Mohammad ABU-ROUS
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Lenzing AG
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Lenzing AG
Chemiefaser Lenzing AG
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F2/00—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of cellulose or cellulose derivatives; Manufacture thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D03D15/225—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based artificial, e.g. viscose
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D1/00—Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D1/00—Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
    • D03D1/0017—Woven household fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D03D15/217—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based natural from plants, e.g. cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
    • D06L4/00—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
    • D06L4/00—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs
    • D06L4/20—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs using agents which contain halogen
    • D06L4/22—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs using agents which contain halogen using inorganic agents
    • D06L4/24—Bleaching fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods; Bleaching leather or furs using agents which contain halogen using inorganic agents using chlorites or chlorine dioxide
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions

Definitions

  • Denim is a fabric which is usually woven from cotton as a warp-faced textile having a twill pattern.
  • a very common denim fabric is indigo-dyed denim, in which only the warp is dyed. The weft stays white. The core of the warp, however, remains undyed, which results in fading characteristics which are typical for denim. Due to the warp-faced weaving, denim is colored - typically indigo - on the outside and white - uncolored - on the inside.
  • cotton is a fiber which is highly resistant and therefore able to undergo even aggressive finishing, its mechanical properties and its haptic qualities are not ideal and give denim only a small range of capabilities.
  • Man-made continuous filament yarns are widely used in the textile industry to produce fabrics with a distinct character compared to fabrics produced from yarns made using staple fiber.
  • a continuous filament yarn is one in which all of the fibers are continuous throughout any length of the yarn.
  • a continuous filament yarn will commonly consist of 20 to 200 or more individual fibers which are all parallel to each other and the axis of the yarn when produced.
  • the yarn is produced by extruding a solution or melt of a polymer or a polymer derivative and then winding the yarn produced onto a bobbin or reel or by forming a cake by centrifugal winding
  • Synthetic polymer continuous filament yarns are common.
  • nylon, polyester and polypropylene continuous filament yarns are used in a wide variety of fabrics. They are produced by melt spinning a molten polymer through a spinneret with a number of holes corresponding to the number of fibers required in the yarn produced. After the molten polymer has started to solidify, the yarn may be drawn to orient the polymer molecules and improve the properties of the yarn.
  • Continuous filament yarns can also be spun from cellulose derivatives such as cellulose diacetate and cellulose triacetate by dry spinning.
  • the polymer is dissolved in a suitable solvent and then extruded through a spinneret.
  • the solvent evaporates quickly after extrusion causing the polymer to precipitate in the form of a yarn.
  • the newly produced yarn may be drawn to orient the polymer molecules.
  • Continuous filament cellulose yarns are also produced using the cupro process.
  • Cellulose is dissolved in a solution of cuprammonium hydroxide.
  • the resulting solution is extruded into a water bath where the cuprammonium hydroxide is diluted and the cellulose precipitates.
  • the resulting yarn is washed, dried and wound onto a bobbin.
  • Fabrics made from continuous filament cellulose yarns are good at moisture handling to enhance the comfort of the wearer. They do not generate static electricity as readily as fabrics made using continuous filament synthetic yarns.
  • Fabrics made from currently available continuous filament cellulose yarns generally have poor physical properties.
  • the dry strength and the tear strength are poor compared to fabrics made from synthetic polymers such as polyester.
  • the wet strength is much lower than the dry strength due to interactions between the cellulose and water.
  • the abrasion resistance is low.
  • the interactions with water also soften the cellulose causing the fabrics made from the yarn to be unstable when wetted. This is particularly problematic when washing these materials in a household washing machine.
  • WO 2012/027374 A2 concerns the methods to use novel fungal carbohydrate hydrolases and compositions of such enzymes to improve digestibility of animal feed and in a variety of other processes, including food and beverage processing, baking; washing of clothing, detergent processes etc.
  • NewCell ® a lyocell filament yarn called NewCell ® are discussed in W. Rimpp et al: "Lenzinger Berichte 75196 MARKETING OF NEWCELL® FILAMENT YARNS", 31 December, 1995 .
  • WO 2014/015351 A1 deals with a flame-resistant fabric for use in personal protective clothing, which provides a high level of comfort, protection from flames and other heat sources such as electric arc and liquid metal splash.
  • JP H10 72740 A describes a lining fabric produced by using cellulose multifilament yarn.
  • a denim fabric comprising lyocell staple fiber yarns are discussed in WO 03/099047 A2 and CN 105 648 634 A .
  • JP H10 18145 A discloses a woven fabric obtained by subjecting warps comprising lyocell fiber multifilament and a synthetic fiber multifilament to combined weaving with a weft, the combined weave lining fabric is composed of the lyocell fiber multifilament and the synthetic fiber multifilament are alternately arranged one by one.
  • the lining fabric is obtained by weaving using warps in which the lyocell fiber multifilament and the synthetic fiber multifilament are alternately arranged one by one on a beam.
  • Such a lyocell filament denim withstands aggressive finishing agents. Further, the denim comprising or consisting of lyocell filament yarn is softer and smoother even than denim with a silk component. Thus, the inventive lyocell filament denim gives rise to a new class of fabrics with an entirely new set of properties. This is all the more surprising as it would have been expected from the properties of cotton yarn that - if at all -denim containing or consisting of lyocell staple fiber would be a replacement for cotton denim.
  • Lyocell is the generic name given to a type of cellulosic man-made fiber produced by a direct dissolution process. The lyocell process is described e.g. in US 4,246,221 and WO 93/19230 .
  • a slurry of wood pulp is formed with a solution of amine oxide in water. Water is then evaporated from the slurry in a thin film evaporator vessel. When the water level is reduced below a certain level, the cellulose forms a solution in the amine oxide. The resulting viscous liquid solidifies to a glassy solid below about 70 °C. If maintained above this temperature, it can be pumped through a spinneret to form filaments which are then immediately immersed in water where the dilution of the amine oxide causes the cellulose to precipitate.
  • the spinneret used for extrusion of the amine oxide cellulose solution has a number of holes corresponding to the number of filaments required in the continuous filament yarn.
  • the newly formed yarn is washed clean of amine oxide with a counter current flow of water. This washing may be done on self advancing reels on which water is introduced to wash the fiber. A finish may be applied to aid further processing and the yarn is dried. The washed and dried yarn is wound onto a bobbin.
  • cellulose in the form of wood pulp is the only raw material used.
  • the wood pulp used comes from sustainable managed forests.
  • the filaments produced are 100% cellulose and are the only output from the process.
  • the amine oxide solvent is recovered from the washing water and reused to produce further filament. This recovery can be as high as 99.7 %.
  • the environmental impact of the lyocell process is very low. There are virtually no releases of gaseous or liquid emissions from the process and the filament produced is solvent free.
  • the viscose process uses carbon disulphide, sodium hydroxide, sulphuric acid and zinc sulphate. Hydrogen sulphide and carbon disulphide can be released from the process unless a great deal of care is taken. Sodium sulphate is produced as a by-product of the process.
  • the invention can be further improved by the following additional features, which can be combined independent of one another and which each exhibit a different technical effect.
  • the continuous filament lyocell yarns used to produce the products of the invention may be the as produced yarn in an untwisted state or may be twisted by rewinding. It may be a doubled yarn. It may be combined with another continuous filament yarn or staple fiber yarn by twisting the yarns together or by intermingling using for example an air jet.
  • a content of more than lyocell filaments 10% can improve the handfeel of the fabric significantly given the soft structure of a yarn containing or consisting of Lyocell filaments. Consequently the total content of lyocell of at least 10 % already gives a haptical impact independent of whether the Lyocell filament is used in warp or weft.
  • a blend of at least 10 % lyocell filaments with other synthetic or cellulose filaments, e.g. with Viscose or Cupro filaments, or with Viscose or Cupro staple fibers, or wool and cotton improves the strength of the yarn.
  • a blend of at least 10 % lyocell filaments and synthetics improves the breathability and moisture management of the fabric significantly.
  • the lyocell denim according to the invention has a superior softness.
  • An indirect measure for softness is the TS7 value as determined by a TSA tissue softness analyzer.
  • the denim according to the invention has a TS7 value of no more than 8 in the fixed state, i.e. before garment wash.
  • a TS7 value of no more than 6 can be obtained with the inventive denim after garment wash, and even after bleaching.
  • the TSA also yields another parameter, the TS750 value, which is correlated to smoothness.
  • the denim according to the invention in the fixed state has a TS750 value of no more than 120.
  • a TS750 value of no more than 120 may also be maintained after garment wash and/or after bleaching.
  • the denim according to the invention has higher smoothness and/or softness than a cotton denim and an even partly superior softness and/or smoothness to denim with silk yarn.
  • the denim also has high mechanical resilience.
  • the denim scores at least 15,000 cycles to hole formation in a Martindale abrasion test in the fixed state, i.e. before garment wash.
  • the denim also scores 8,000 cycles to hole formation after garment wash and/or after bleaching. This indicates that the denim according to the invention can be used for textiles that are subject to strong wear.
  • the outer face of the denim i.e. the warp face of the denim, may, in another embodiment, have a pilling grade of no worse than 5 in the fixed state, i.e. before garment wash, and/or no worse than 5 after garment wash and no worse than 5 after bleaching.
  • Yarn strength of the denim in the at least one, warp and/or weft, direction in which the lyocell filament yarn is used is preferably at least 20 cN/tex, more preferably at least 25 cN/tex, in the fixed state cond. 20/65 and/or at least 10 cN/tex, preferably at least 20 cN/tex in the wet state.
  • the yarn strength in the at least one, warp and/or weft, direction in which the lyocell filament yarn is used was preferably at least 4.5 cN/tex, more preferably at least 5 cN/tex cond. 20/65, and preferably at least 3, preferably at least 7 cN/tex wet.
  • yarn strength in the at least one, warp and/or weft, direction in which the lyocell filament yarn is used is at least 2 cN/tex, preferably at least 3 cN/tex. cond. 20/65, and preferably at least 2 cN/tex, more preferably at least 5 cN/tex wet.
  • Yarn elongation of the weft and/or warp yarn which contains or consists of lyocell filaments may be at least 4 % after fixation and/or at least 2 % after garment wash and/or at least 1 % after bleaching.
  • the hairiness of the denim may have a grade of no worse than 4 after garment wash and of no worse than 3 after bleaching on the warp face, i.e. the outer face of the denim.
  • the fiber splice of the denim may have a grade of no worse than 4 before and/or after fixation and/or of no worse than 4.5 after garment wash and/or of no worse than 4.5 after bleaching.
  • denim according to the invention qualify the denim according to the invention as a fabric suitable for an extremely wide range of denim applications.
  • the specific hand as determined by a Handle-O-Meter in the direction of the warp and/or weft yarns that contain or consist of lyocell filaments is at least 4 mN m 2 g -1 after garment wash and/or at least 3 mN m 2 g -1 after bleaching. These values indicate a high smoothness and flexibility of the inventive denim.
  • the luster of the warp yarn consisting of lyocell filaments may be at least 20 % reflection. This allows creating a denim having high gloss.
  • a garment in particular a garment of women's apparel, and/or menswear, such as jackets, coats, blouses, dresses and pants, in which a lyocell denim as described above is used.
  • Moisture regain of the fabric as measured according to ASTMD 1909 is an indicator for the comfort level.
  • Mulberry silk has 11 % of moisture regain and offers one of the best comfort levels of all fabrics with respect to moisture regain.
  • the lyocell filament yarn and/or denim according to the invention preferably has a moisture regain of at least 13 % which results in a similar or even better comfort than mulberry silk.
  • the lyocell filament denim is constructed as twill weave. Fabrics may be woven using any loom suitable for weaving continuous filament yarns including shuttle looms, rapier looms, projectile looms or ribbon looms.
  • the lyocell denim fabrics produced using continuous filament lyocell yarns can have aesthetics and appearance similar to a fabric produced from continuous filament viscose yarn, but have significantly better physical properties.
  • the higher strength and modulus of the yarn result in improved fabric breaking strength, tear strength, abrasion resistance and stability.
  • the wet fabric properties are also superior.
  • Fig. 1 shows schematically a garment 1 which at least partly is made from a lyocell denim 2.
  • the garment 1 is only schematically shown to be pants but not limited thereto.
  • the garment 1 may be also a dress, a suit, a costume, a jacket, a shirt or a blouse or parts of and/or on these garments.
  • the lyocell denim 2 comprises weft yarns 4 and warp yarns 6, which may be twisted. At least one of the weft yarns 4 and the warp yarns 6 contains or consists of lyocell filaments.
  • FIG. 2 An example of a warp and/or weft yarns 6,4 with at least one lyocell filament 8 is shown in Fig. 2.
  • Fig. 3 shows a twisted warp and/or weft 3-ply yarn 4, 6 with at least one lyocell filament.
  • At least one of the filaments 8 is a lyocell filament.
  • the twisted filament may have any number of filaments and any twist direction.
  • at least 50 % of the yarn 4, 6 consist of lyocell filaments 8.
  • samples were prepared and compared to comparative examples made from denim consisting of or containing cotton.
  • bottom is the benchmark, against which any denim using yarn from man-made fibers or filaments has to compete in the market.
  • the samples of the inventive lyocell filament denim are compared to comparative examples using the following tests:
  • test sample was held oblique by the test person and the hairiness was graded between best (grade 5, no hairiness) and worst (grade 1, long protruding fibers up to 2 mm).
  • the number of pillings was assessed using reference samples (knits K3 or K2, or wovens W3 or W2) of EMPA Standard SN 198525 analogous to DIN EN ISO 12 945-2.
  • the reference samples are graded with 1 to 5 and are compared to the test samples.
  • Grade 5 corresponds to a denim having no pillings. The more pillings there are on the surface of the test samples the worse the grade gets. The worst grade is 1.
  • Fiber splice is created if fibrillic fibers are moved to the surface by scouring.
  • the fibrillic fibers are brushlike ends with stick out if the scoured sample is analyzed under a microscope.
  • a microscope SM with an X10 eyepiece of UHL Technische Mikroskope was used for measuring fiber splice.
  • grade 5 was given for a smooth surface which showed no fibrilles. If there was a dense fur of long, curved fiber ends that were partly detached from the surface, grade 1 was given.
  • Samples were prepared as follows. Hereby, weight was determined according to DIN EN 12127. Yarn count in the weft and warp was performed in accordance with DIN 53820-3.
  • Sample 1 was a denim 1857-A, in which the warp consisted of bright, untwisted yarn having dtex 500f300 that was made of lyocell filaments.
  • the weft yarn consisted of cotton yarn having a core of Lycra T400. This resulted in a fabric having 70 % lyocell yarns, 20% cotton, 8 % elastomultiester and 2% elastane.
  • the denim had a weight of 343 g m -2 .
  • Sample 2 (not forming part of the invention) was a denim 978-150-814 containing 33 % lyocell filaments and 67 % cotton. The weight was 143 g m -2 . The warp was made of cotton ring yarn Z. The weft was made from yarn dtex 150f90.
  • Sample 3 was a denim 1857-8, in which the warp consisted of bright untwisted yarn of 100 % lyocell filaments, the yarn having a linear mass density of dtex 500f300.
  • the weft was a 100% polyester yarn with an ELAS core of Lycra T400. This resulted in a denim having 356 gm -2 and 70 % lyocell, 28 % polyester and 2 % elastane.
  • Sample 6 was a denim 1857-CNF containing 70 % lyocell, 28 % cotton and 2 % elastane. Warp consisted of a lyocell filament yarn having 556 dtex. Weft was made from dull cotton ring yarn with an elastane core.
  • Sample 5 (not forming part of the invention) was a denim 978-100-814 of 45 % lyocell and 55% cotton. Warp consisted of cotton ring yarn Z and weft consisted of lyocell yarn dtex 100f 60. The material weight was 128 g m -2 .
  • Comparative Sample 4 was a denim 840-814 made from 59 % cotton and 41 % silk, where the warp yarn was made of cotton and the weft yarn was made from silk. This resulted in a denim that had high softness and smoothness, and a luster.
  • the weight was 171 g m -2 .
  • Comparative Sample 7 was denim 435-4047 consisting of 98% cotton and 2 % elastene. Warp was made from cotton ring yarn and weft from cotton ring yarn with a dull elastane core.
  • Samples 1 to 3 and 6 were benchmarked against comparative sample 7 with respect to washability, resistance against finishing agents, smoothness, softness and luster.
  • Samples 2 and 5 were benchmarked against comparative sample 4, to compare a lyocell warp denim against a cotton warp denim as both featured the same weft material.
  • the samples and comparative samples underwent the following finishing steps. After each finishing step, the samples and comparative examples were tested.
  • Samples 1, 2, 3, 5, 6 and comparative samples 4 and 7 were garment-washed as follows.
  • Fibrillation was carried out with a liquor ratio of 1:60 with 2.5 kg fabric and 150 l liquor at 22 rpm for 20 minutes at 60 °C with maximum heating rate in 2 g/l Persoftal L, 2 g/I soda and 0.3 g/l Lavasperse KDS conc.
  • the liquor was cooled down to 40 °C and rinsed cold with 300 l, then rinsed warm with 150 l for 5 minutes at 50 °C, where heating started right at the beginning of the rinsing, and then again rinsed cold with 300 l.
  • enzyme washing was carried out at a liquor ratio of 1:60 again with 2.5 kg fabric and 150 l liquor at 22 rpm.
  • the liquor contained 2 g/l Persoftal L, 3 g/I Peristal E and 0.3 g/l Lavasperse KDS conc.
  • the pH value was controlled to be between pH 4.5-5. After heating to 55 °C at the maximum heating rate, the pH value was checked. At pH 5.5, 2 g/I Perizym 2000 were added before adding the enzyme and then the material was processed at 55 °C for 55 minutes. Then the material was heated to 85 °C and treated at 85 °C for 15 minutes.
  • Reviving took place at a liquor ratio of 1:60 as above using 2 % Tubingal RGH, 1% Tubingal RWM, 3 g/I Peristal E at 15 minutes and 40 °C after heating at the maximum rate.
  • the liquor was then drained and the material was tumble-dryed for 50 minutes at 80 ° C and then allowed to cool down for 20 minutes.
  • samples 1, 2, 3, 5, 6 and comparative samples 4 and 7 were bleached as follows: Pre-scouring took place at a liquor ratio of 1:60 with 2.5 kg of fabrics and 150 I of liquor. For prewashing, 2 g/l Persoftal L, 0.5 g/l NaOH 100 % (1 g/l NaOH 50 %) and 0.2 g/l Lava Sperse KDS conc. were used. Pre-scouring was carried out for 20 minutes at 60 °C (maximum heating rate).
  • Bleaching took place at a liquor ratio of 1:60 and 15 rpm, cold, for 30 minutes, again with 2.5 kg fabrics and 150 I liquor containing 2 g/l Soda and 0.4 g/l Lavasperse KDS conc. The pH value was checked and maintained at pH 10.
  • As bleaching agent 3 g/l active chlorine (20 ml/l bleaching lye solution 150 g/l) was used.
  • the liquor was then drained and the material was cold-rinsed with 300 l and warm rinsed with 150 l as above.
  • Dechlorination was performed with 2 ml/l hydrogen peroxide 50 % for 30 minutes at 40 °C.
  • enzyme washing followed by rinsing and reviving and tumble drying took place as follows: After rinsing, enzyme washing was carried out at a liquor ratio of 1:60 again with 2.5 kg fabric and 150 l liquor at 22 rpm.
  • the liquor contained 2 g/l Persoftal L, 3 g/I Peristal E and 0.3 g/l Lavasperse KDS conc.
  • the pH value was maintained between pH 4.5-5. After heating to 55 °C at the maximum heating rate, the pH value was checked. Before adding the enzyme and then the material was processed at 55 °C for 55 minutes. Then the material was heated to 85 °C and treated at 85 °C for 15 minutes.
  • Reviving took place at a liquor ratio of 1:60 as above using 2% Tubingal RGH, 1% Tubingal RWM, 3 g/l Peristal E at 15 minutes and 40 °C after heating at the maximum rate.
  • Comparing samples 2 and 5 to comparative sample 4 the tenacity of the lyocell filament both wet and dry according to the invention is significantly higher than the tenacity of the silk denim of comparative sample 4. Further, yarn strength and yarn elongation both dry and wet are superior in all lyocell filament denims compared to nonlyocell filament cotton denims as exemplified in comparative sample 4 and 7.
  • the lyocell filament denim is at least comparable to if not better by one grade than cotton denim before and after garment wash and after bleaching. Further, the lyocell filaments are not subject to the fibrillation that occurs with cotton after washing.
  • yarn strength of the inventive lyocell filament denim is still very good.
  • the yarn strength of the lyocell filament denim is paired with luster, softness and smoothness that are all superior to cotton denim and can only be achieved with a denim containing silk. However, the latter cannot be bleached.
  • the TSA test was carried out to verify that the haptic qualities of the lyocell filament denim of samples 1 to 5 are at least equal if not superior to the haptic qualities of the silk denim of comparative sample 4.
  • the two predominant haptic qualities that are improved by using silk in denim are softness and smoothness. To assess these characteristics objectively, the TSA test was carried out.
  • the TSA test was performed using a TSA Tissue Softness Analyzer device of emtec electronics GmbH, Leipzig, Germany, and the software ESM which is shipped with the TSA.
  • the TSA measures a sound spectrum which results from pressing and rotating a star-like body against a sample fabric with a defined force. For testing, the fabric is clamped around its perimeter and unsupported otherwise, in particular opposite the rotating body.
  • the software and its evaluation algorithm was not used. Instead, the sound pressure as measured by the TSA at 7 kHz (TS7) was taken as an objective indirect measure of softness and the sound pressure at 750 Hz (TS750) in the sound spectrum measured by the TSA was taken as an objective indirect measure of smoothness.
  • the sound pressure is automatically given by the TSA as dB V 2 rms, where V is the rotational velocity of the rotating body. Using these values directly avoided any problems that may have arisen due to the EMS algorithm having been developed for tissue, and not for woven fabrics. A total of four probes was subjected to the TSA test for each sample.
  • the Handle-O-Meter tests were carried out using a Handle-O-Meter testing device of Thwing-Albert Instrument Company, West Berlin, NJ, USA. Sample size was 10 cm x 10 cm. The 1 ⁇ 4 inch slot was used with a 1,000 g beam and a stainless steel surface. The tests were conducted on samples cond. 65/20.
  • the Handle-O-Meter yields two force measurements which are assigned to two orthogonal directions, a machine direction MD which in the chosen set-up corresponded to the warp direction and a cross direction CD whichin the chosen setup corresponded to the weft direction. These forces are correlated to the stiffness and smoothness of the tested surface. The force is normalized with the bulk weight of the test sample, resulting in a specific hand in mN m 2 g -1 .
  • the silk denim of comparative sample 4 is less smooth then samples 2 and 5, in which lyocell endless filaments are used in the weft instead of silk. Further, the lyocell filament denim is softer than the silk denim of comparative sample 4 before finishing. After finishing, softness of samples 2 and 5 corresponds to the softness of comparative sample 4.
  • the lyocell filament denim according to the invention combines indeed superior softness and smoothness with the capability of being bleached.
  • the lyocell filament denim has high tenacity. This combination results in a new class of denim fabrics.
  • a handfeel panel was used.
  • the panel was put together consisting of ten independent textile experts.
  • the panel's task was to evaluate objectively the touch of the lyocell filament denim according to the invention in comparison to the comparative examples.
  • the handfeel panel operated as follows: All samples to be tested by the handfeel panel were provided in a format 17 cm x 17 cm and were glued to carbon using a double-sided gluing tape approximately 2 cm from the border on the upper edge. The fabric sample was glued onto the cardboard with the right, warp-faced side facing to the front. It was oriented such that the weft direction was horizontal and the warp direction was vertical.
  • a semantic grid was defined by providing contrasting pairs of descriptive adjectives for describing the handfeel.
  • the term of the contrasting pairs which corresponded to the desired quality is considered "best".
  • Grades ranged from 1 (worst) to 10 (best).
  • Reference sample fabrics of the same construction type with as close construction parameters as possible and, at the same time, significant differences in handfeel were pre-defined for each word pair. For example, a fabric being considered as having a reference coarseness and a fabric being considered as having a reference smoothness were given to the handfeel panel.
  • the grades for the respective reference fabrics were fixed at 2 and 8 respectively.
  • the reference fabric for the worse quality of a word pair had by definition a grade 2 and the reference fabric for the better quality of a word pair a grade 8.
  • Assigning the grades 2 and 8, respectively, allowed to expand the scale during the test if materials with a better or worse quality than the two reference materials were met.
  • the reference material for coarseness was defined to have a grade 2
  • the reference material for smoothness was defined to have a grade 8 in the coarseness-smoothness scale. All other materials which were then tested had to be graded by the handfeel panel relative to the reference material.
  • Luster of individual yarns usable in a lyocell denim according to the invention was measured using a glossmeter.
  • the results in % reflection of incident light are given in Table 7.
  • For measuring the luster of yarns they were wound on wrap-over cardboard and luster was measured according to EN 14086-01/2003 at 45°.
  • the luster of fabrics was determined according to TAPPI T480 at 75°. The viewing angle was directed along the yarn direction for measuring yarn luster.
  • Samples 1, 3, 7, 8 were yarns made from 100 % bright lyocell filaments having the linear mass densities indicated in Table 7.
  • Samples 2, 4, 5, 6 are comparative samples.
  • Sample 3 had a far superior luster to all other samples and the comparative examples.
  • the luster of samples 1 and 6 was comparable to the denim of comparative sample 7 , containing silk.
  • Luster of the yarn usable for denim was at least 20 % reflection.
  • the inventive lyocell filament denim also combines a superior luster with resistance against aggressive finishing agents.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Botany (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Claims (10)

  1. Denim de lyocell (2) constitué de fils de trame (4) et de fils de chaîne (6), le denim étant un textile qui est tissé comme textile à face de chaîne présentant un motif sergé, les fils de chaîne (6) étant constitués de 100 % de filaments lyocellulaires (8), et en ce que le denim de lyocell (2) comprend au moins 70 % de filaments lyocellulaires (8), le denim atteignant au moins l'un d'au moins 15 000 cycles concernant la formation de trous dans un test d'abrasion de Martindale conforme à la norme DIN EN ISO 12947-2 à l'état fixe et 8000 cycles concernant la formation de trous dans un test d'abrasion de Martindale conforme à la norme DIN EN ISO 12947-2 après un lavage de vêtement ou après un blanchiment.
  2. Denim de lyocell (2) selon la revendication 1, où le denim est blanchi.
  3. Denim de lyocell (2) selon la revendication 1 ou la revendication 2, où le denim présente une valeur TS7 qui n'est pas supérieure à 6 dans un test TSA effectué en utilisant un analyseur de douceur de tissu TSA à l'état fixe et/ou après un lavage de vêtement et/ou après un blanchiment, tel qu'il est exposé dans la description.
  4. Denim de lyocell (2) selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, où le denim présente une valeur TS750 qui n'est pas supérieure à 100 dans un test TSA effectué en utilisant un analyseur de douceur de tissu TSA à l'état fixe et/ou après un lavage de vêtement et/ou après un blanchiment, tel qu'il est exposé dans la description.
  5. Denim de lyocell (2) selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, dans lequel la résistance des fils conforme à la norme DIN EN ISO 2062 pour les fils contenant un lyocell ou constitué de celui-ci est au moins de 25 cN / tex après une fixation et/ou de 4,5 cN / tex après un lavage de vêtement et/ou d'au moins 2 cN / tex après un blanchiment.
  6. Denim de lyocell (2) selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5, dans lequel la face de trame du denim présente une classe de boulochage qui n'est pas pire que 5 à l'état fixe et/ou pas pire que 5 après un lavage de vêtement et pas pire que 5 après un blanchiment dans un test de boulochage de Martindale conforme à la norme DIN EN ISO 12945-2.
  7. Denim de lyocell (2) selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6, dans lequel l'élongation des fils pour au moins l'un du fil de trame et du fil de chaîne contenant les filaments lyocellulaires vaut au moins 4 % après une fixation et/ou au moins 2 % après un lavage de vêtement et/ou au moins 1 % après un blanchiment.
  8. Denim de lyocell (2) selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 7, dans lequel le toucher spécifique, déterminé par un test avec un appareil « Handle-O-meter », dans la direction des fils de trame et/ou de chaîne qui combinent des filaments lyocellulaires ou sont constitués de ceux-ci, vaut au moins 4 mN m2 g-1 après un lavage de vêtement et/ou au moins 3 mN m2 g-1 après un blanchiment, tel qu'il est exposé dans la description.
  9. Denim de lyocell (2) selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 8, dans lequel le fil de trame constitué de 100 % de filaments lyocellulaires (8) présente une brillance d'au moins 20 % de réflexion, la brillance des fils ayant été déterminée à un angle de 45 ° conformément à la norme EN 14086-01 / 2003.
  10. Vêtement contenant un denim de lyocell conforme à l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 9 ou constitué de celui-ci.
EP18773444.7A 2017-10-06 2018-09-20 Denim à filaments lyocellulaires Active EP3692196B1 (fr)

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EP17195295.5A EP3467171A1 (fr) 2017-10-06 2017-10-06 Denim à filaments lyocellulaires
PCT/EP2018/075492 WO2019068476A1 (fr) 2017-10-06 2018-09-20 Denim à filaments lyocellulaires

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CN (1) CN111183249A (fr)
AU (1) AU2018345581B2 (fr)
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KR102584784B1 (ko) 2019-04-15 2023-10-06 데이진 프론티아 가부시키가이샤 직물 및 의료
WO2020256685A1 (fr) * 2019-06-17 2020-12-24 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Article en tissu souple et résistant comprenant des fibres de cellulose régénérées
CN114269976A (zh) * 2019-08-13 2022-04-01 欧布斯有限公司 复合纱线
CN112981665B (zh) * 2021-02-04 2023-02-03 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 亚麻弹力面料的制备方法
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KR102379050B1 (ko) 2022-03-24
AU2018345581B2 (en) 2021-04-29
EP3692196A1 (fr) 2020-08-12
JP2020536185A (ja) 2020-12-10
KR20200057764A (ko) 2020-05-26
BR112020004280A2 (pt) 2020-09-29
TWI756474B (zh) 2022-03-01
PE20201036A1 (es) 2020-10-09
AU2018345581A1 (en) 2020-03-12
CN111183249A (zh) 2020-05-19
RU2753288C1 (ru) 2021-08-12
JP6989079B2 (ja) 2022-01-05
WO2019068476A1 (fr) 2019-04-11
US20200291551A1 (en) 2020-09-17
MX2020003597A (es) 2020-10-01
TW201923185A (zh) 2019-06-16
ES2982271T3 (es) 2024-10-15

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