EP3635161A1 - Tissu denim tricoté en chaîne avec filé et procédé de fabrication associé - Google Patents

Tissu denim tricoté en chaîne avec filé et procédé de fabrication associé

Info

Publication number
EP3635161A1
EP3635161A1 EP19800250.3A EP19800250A EP3635161A1 EP 3635161 A1 EP3635161 A1 EP 3635161A1 EP 19800250 A EP19800250 A EP 19800250A EP 3635161 A1 EP3635161 A1 EP 3635161A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fabric
spun yarn
yarn
spun
warp knit
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP19800250.3A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP3635161A4 (fr
Inventor
Aamir Akhtar
Debasish Halder
Dharmendra Raj
Shailendra Upadhyay
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Arvind Ltd
Original Assignee
Arvind Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Arvind Ltd filed Critical Arvind Ltd
Publication of EP3635161A1 publication Critical patent/EP3635161A1/fr
Publication of EP3635161A4 publication Critical patent/EP3635161A4/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/16—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D02G3/042—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials all components being made from natural material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/18—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating elastic threads

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a warp knitted denim fabric and a method for preparing a warp knit denim fabric.
  • Denim fabric is commonly defined as a fabric having indigo dyed warp yarn and undyed weft yarn woven in twill structure.
  • the denim fabric is manufactured with spun cotton yarn in warp and weft, which is known as non-stretch fabric.
  • the traditional denim manufacturing method includes various steps such as spinning, dyeing, sizing, weaving, finishing, garmenting and washing process.
  • the denim fabric is manufactured with elastomeric yarn.
  • the denim fabric is heavier in weight.
  • synthetic fibres and/or natural are nowadays blended with cotton fibres.
  • various weave patterns have been experimented to impart more comfort in wearing. But, even after so much of modifications, it is found that the comfort in wearing in the woven denim garments may not match or lack in the comfort level that gets in wearing knitted garments.
  • the weft knit is also known as circular knit.
  • the weft knitted fabric is used for manufacturing T-shirt, lingerie, sportswear, leggings, and many more.
  • the weft knitted fabric by this process moves as per body movement.
  • the circular knitted fabric has demerit of garment stability after certain usage, the garment expands after certain use and become over-sized or bulgy.
  • the warp knitted fabric is used for sportswear, technical textile, upholstery etc.
  • the warp knitted fabric has more dimensionally stable structure as compared to weft knitted fabric.
  • the warp knitted fabric has better control (more balanced) at a time of knitting compared to weft knitted fabric because the yarn movement in warp knitting process comprises swinging and shogging motion. Further, there is problem of yarn runoff from holes
  • warp knitted garment (torn part of garment) in weft knitted fabric, whereas, such defect doesn’t occur in warp knitted fabric. Therefore, the life of warp knitted garment is more compared to its weft knitted counterpart.
  • the present invention provides one or more means in one or more embodiments/aspects for solving at least one of the aforementioned problems.
  • the present invention provides a warp knit denim fabric comprising a plurality of spun yarns at least 45% w/w of fabric knitted as warp yarns, each spun yarn having tenacity at least 18 cN/tex and each spun yarn comprises natural fibers at least 60% w/w of the spun yarn.
  • the present invention provides a method for manufacturing a warp knit denim fabric, the method comprising the steps of producing a spun yarn having tenacity at least 18 cN/tex and each spun yarn comprises natural fibers at least 60% w/w of the spun yarn and warp knitting the spun yarn at a predetermined speed in a predefined pattern thereby forming a warp knit denim fabric having spun yarns at least 45% w/w of fabric.
  • the spun yarn comprises 100% natural fibers or a blend of natural with regenerative cellulosic fibers, synthetic fibers or a combination thereof, said blend having natural fibers at least 60% w/w of the spun yarn.
  • the liner density of the spun yarn is from about 10 Ne to about 120 Ne and more preferably
  • the spun yarns are dyed with indigo or sulphur dye.
  • the natural fibers includes cotton fibers, wool, linen, hemp, jute etc. According to an embodiment of the present invention, cotton fibers are preferable for the warp knit denim fabric.
  • the regenerated cellulosic fibres includes lyocell, viscose, modal, and cupramonium rayon etc.
  • a warp knit denim fabrics of the present invention is made by warp knitting a plurality of spun yarns at least 45% w/w of the fabric.
  • each spun yarn has a tenacity at least 18 cN/tex and comprises natural fibers at least 60% by weight.
  • the spun yarn may comprise 100% natural fibers.
  • the spun yarn may comprise a blend of natural fibres with regenerated cellulosic fibres, synthetic fibers or combination thereof wherein the blend comprises natural fibers at least 60% w/w of the spun yarn.
  • the spun yarn may be a single ply, two ply or three ply.
  • the warp knit denim fabrics may comprise a plurality of filament yarns, a plurality of elastomeric yarns or combination thereof along with the plurality of the spun yarns to get good product aesthetic as well as stretch and strength.
  • the fabric may comprise filaments yarns ranging from 5% to 50% of the weight of the warp knit denim fabric.
  • the fabric may comprise elastomeric yarns ranging from 2% to 20% of the weight of the warp knit denim fabric.
  • the preferable density of the filament yarn and elastomeric yarn ranges from about 20 denier to about 150 denier.
  • the warp knit denim fabric may comprise 100% spun yarn.
  • the spun yarn before knitting are dyed with indigo or sulphur dye for denim effect.
  • the warp knit denim fabric may comprise indigo dyed spun yarns or sulphur dyed spun yarns or combination of indigo spun yarns and sulphur dyed spun yarn knitted together on a warp knitting machine to provide the warp knit denim fabric and provide the desired denim effect.
  • the present invention provides a method for manufacturing a warp knit denim fabric.
  • the method comprises steps of producing the spun yarns of desired properties and warp knitting the spun yarns along or in combination with elastomeric yarns, filaments yarns or combination thereof at a predetermined speed to produce the warp knit denim fabric.
  • the spun yarn is produced by a compact spinning technology to reduce hairiness and provide more even yarn.
  • the spun yarn produced by the compact spinning technology in such a way that the spun yarn has tenacity at least 18 cN/tex.
  • the compact spinning process/technology for making yarn is known, however, the present invention utilizes the compact spinning process/technology to produce the spun yarn of a particular tenacity for working over the knitting machines.
  • the linear density of the spun yarn is from about 10s Ne to 120s Ne and more preferably 20s Ne to 60s Ne.
  • the spun yarn comprises natural fibers at least 60% w/w of the spun yarn.
  • the spun yarn comprises 100% natural fibers or a blend of natural fibres with regenerated cellulosic fibres, synthetic fibers or combination thereof wherein the blend may comprise natural fibers at least
  • the spun yarn can be an elastomeric yarn having tenacity at least 18 cN/tex and linear density from about 20 denier to about 150 denier.
  • the first step may include dyeing of the spun yarn with indigo or sulphur dye.
  • the spun yarn may be dyed with denim dyes such as indigo using a rope dyeing machine
  • the first step of producing the spun yarn may include a step of forming a warp beam from the dyed spun yarn directly.
  • the warp beam obtained from the first step may be warp knitted at a predetermined speed in a predetermined pattern to obtain the warp knit denim fabric having the spun yarns at least 45% w/w of the warp knit denim fabric.
  • the fabric may include the 100% spun yarns.
  • the fabric thus obtained has a weight that ranges from 150 GSM to
  • the guide bar (GB) carries yarn as per predefined pattern of fabric. It is understood that the predetermined pattern can be selected as per the requirements and various knit patterns are very well known which can be used in the present invention.
  • the number in pattern chain denotes yarn underlap. The spun yarn can underlap on maximum ten yarns, more preferably, six yarns. It is further understood that single guide bar machine is used for mesh or open fabric structure, however, more than one guide bars are used for dense and complicated structure.
  • the speed of warp knitting machine is kept at 400 rpm - 700 rpm for spun yarn.
  • the warp knitting step may include knitting of the spun yarn along with filament yarns, elastomeric yarns or combination thereof wherein the spun yarns are at least 45% w/w of the fabric. It is to be noted here that dope dyed filament yarn may also be used. The elastomeric yarn is used to stretch by 5% - 25% during fabric manufacturing process.
  • the fabric course per inch ranges from 5 to 30 and preferably 8 to 25. According to the present invention, the fabric gauze may be maximum 32”.
  • the fabric weight ranges from about 150 GSM to about 350 GSM.
  • the linear density of the filament yarn and elastomeric yarn ranges from about 20 denier to about 150 denier.
  • the warp knit denim fabric may be dyed with indigo, sulphur dye or combination thereof for the desired denim effect. Further, the denim effect may be further enhanced by napping or sanding the denim surface of the fabric.
  • fabric finishing may include heat set, scouring, drying and final finishing.
  • fabric finishing route includes scouring, drying and final finishing.
  • impurities are removed.
  • drying process fabric is dried at about 160 °C to 180 °C temperature.
  • final finishing process fabric parameter is finalized.
  • the fabric is passed through compactor machine at 170 °C to 200 °C. Temperature may vary based on fabric quality and requirement.
  • special finishing may be applied to fabric such as performance finish and over dyeing.
  • the natural fibers includes cotton fibers, wool, linen, hemp, jute etc.
  • most natural fibers preferable for the warp knit denim fabric are cotton fibers as cotton fibers are widely accepted and used for making the denim fabric.
  • the warp knit denim fabric of the present invention has better comfort, high productivity, dyeing compatibility and stable structure.
  • the warp knit denim fabric made by the method as claimed in the present invention had a following pattern:
  • GB3 Full; 1/0/3/4, GB4: Full; 10/23/10/12
  • the garment made from warp knit denim fabric has more comfort than woven fabric.
  • the warp knit denim fabric made by the method as claimed in the present invention had a following pattern:
  • the garment made from warp knit denim fabric has more comfort than woven fabric.
  • Example 3 The warp knit denim fabric made by the method as claimed in the present invention had a following pattern:
  • Fibre content 45% cotton, 47% filament and 8% elastomeric Machine speed: 550rpm
  • the garment made from warp knit denim fabric has more comfort than woven fabric.

Abstract

L'invention concerne un tissu denim tricoté en chaîne avec filé et un procédé de fabrication associé. Le tissu denim selon l'invention comprend une pluralité de fils filés, au moins à 45 % en poids du tissu tricoté étant sous forme de fils de chaîne et chaque fil filé présentant une ténacité d'au moins 18 cN/tex. En outre, chaque fil filé comprend des fibres naturelles représentant au moins 60 % en poids du filé. Les fils filés sont tricotés en chaîne à une vitesse prédéterminée de 400 à 700 tours/minute sur le métier à tricoter, selon un motif prédéfini. Le tissu denim tricoté en chaîne selon l'invention offre un meilleur confort, présente une productivité élevée, une compatibilité de teinture et une structure stable.
EP19800250.3A 2018-05-11 2019-05-10 Tissu denim tricoté en chaîne avec filé et procédé de fabrication associé Withdrawn EP3635161A4 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IN201821013879 2018-05-11
PCT/IN2019/050372 WO2019215761A1 (fr) 2018-05-11 2019-05-10 Tissu denim tricoté en chaîne avec filé et procédé de fabrication associé

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3635161A1 true EP3635161A1 (fr) 2020-04-15
EP3635161A4 EP3635161A4 (fr) 2020-07-08

Family

ID=68467471

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP19800250.3A Withdrawn EP3635161A4 (fr) 2018-05-11 2019-05-10 Tissu denim tricoté en chaîne avec filé et procédé de fabrication associé

Country Status (2)

Country Link
EP (1) EP3635161A4 (fr)
WO (1) WO2019215761A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN115029838A (zh) * 2022-07-12 2022-09-09 广州市华慧智造科技有限公司 一种吸湿快干抗菌针织弹力牛仔面料的制作工艺

Family Cites Families (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3952555A (en) * 1974-08-13 1976-04-27 Deering Milliken Research Corporation Warp knit denim fabrics
JPH11335935A (ja) * 1998-05-26 1999-12-07 Kaihara Kk デニム用混紡糸およびデニム用織編物
KR20100127604A (ko) * 2009-05-26 2010-12-06 벤텍스 주식회사 데님니트 원단
EP2832905B1 (fr) * 2013-07-30 2019-03-27 Sanko Tekstil Isletmeleri San. Ve Tic. A.S. Vêtement présentant un aspect modifiable, usage d'un tissu pour un tel vêtement et procédé de production du vêtement
JP6652796B2 (ja) * 2015-08-12 2020-02-26 Ｋｂセーレン株式会社 コアスパン糸及びそれを用いた織編物
CN106087235A (zh) * 2016-08-09 2016-11-09 江阴市傅博纺织有限公司 一种色织格子弹性经编牛仔面料及其制备工艺

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP3635161A4 (fr) 2020-07-08
WO2019215761A1 (fr) 2019-11-14

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