EP3453793A1 - Tissu tissé/tricoté - Google Patents

Tissu tissé/tricoté Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3453793A1
EP3453793A1 EP17806693.2A EP17806693A EP3453793A1 EP 3453793 A1 EP3453793 A1 EP 3453793A1 EP 17806693 A EP17806693 A EP 17806693A EP 3453793 A1 EP3453793 A1 EP 3453793A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
side walls
ridges
ratio
knitted fabric
yarn
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP17806693.2A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP3453793A4 (fr
Inventor
Masashi CHIKADA
Satoshi Naruko
Kazaru TAKAHASHI
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Newknit Co Ltd
Toray Industries Inc
Original Assignee
Newknit Co Ltd
Toray Industries Inc
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Newknit Co Ltd, Toray Industries Inc filed Critical Newknit Co Ltd
Publication of EP3453793A1 publication Critical patent/EP3453793A1/fr
Publication of EP3453793A4 publication Critical patent/EP3453793A4/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D3/00—Woven fabrics characterised by their shape
    • D03D3/08—Arched, corrugated, or like fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/16—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/06—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/18—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating elastic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/20—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D11/00—Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/20—Physical properties optical
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01—Surface features
    • D10B2403/011—Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0113—One surface including hollow piping or integrated straps, e.g. for inserts or mountings
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01—Surface features
    • D10B2403/011—Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0114—Dissimilar front and back faces with one or more yarns appearing predominantly on one face, e.g. plated or paralleled yarns
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/02—Cross-sectional features

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a woven fabric and a knitted fabric (hereinafter, collectively referred to as "woven/knitted fabric") which have ridges formed therein along one direction, and more particularly, relates to a woven/knitted fabric which allows an observer viewing the woven/knitted fabric to visually recognize a different color depending on the position of the observer.
  • a woven/knitted fabric to allow clothes or the like to have an excellent, beautiful appearance or liveness has been actively developed.
  • Such a woven/knitted fabric is typically provided with a color effect which is produced by a method such as using yarns different in color or material from each other, combining different structures, or using a mesh design or the like, and clothes or the like using such a woven/knitted fabric exhibit an excellent, beautiful appearance or liveness by virtue of the color effect provided for the woven/knitted fabric.
  • the conventional woven/knitted fabric disclosed in Japanese Unexamined Patent Application Publication No. 2012-97390 has ridges which are formed by inserting two yarns of different colors with an equal racking width such that one bundle is formed and inserting a blind yarn such that it covers the upper side of the bundle. Therefore, when the knitted fabric is viewed from one side, only the yarn on the one side is visually recognized because the blind yarn obstructs visual recognition of the yarn on the other side. Further, when the knitted fabric is viewed from the other side, only the yarn on the other side is visually recognized because the blind yarn obstructs visual recognition of the yarn on the one side. Thus, in the case where the yarn on the one side and the yarn on the other side have different colors from each other, a color effect is exhibited such that a different color is visually recognized depending on the direction of view.
  • the conventional woven/knitted fabric disclosed in Japanese Unexamined Patent Application Publication No. 2004-232109 is a composite fabric made by connecting an upper fabric and a lower fabric via a pile fabric, wherein a ridge is formed by the upper fabric, which is formed by chain-stitch rows, and the pile fabric, the chain-stitch rows of the upper fabric are formed by yarns of different colors, and the pile fabric is formed by a yarn of a color different from those of the yarns forming the upper fabric.
  • a color effect is exhibited such that when the ridge is viewed from directly above, only the colors of the upper fabric are visually recognized, while when the ridge is viewed from a certain angle, the colors of the upper fabric and the color of the pile fabric are visually recognized.
  • a woven/knitted fabric is provided with a color effect. Therefore, clothes or the like using such a woven/knitted fabric can exhibit an extraordinary, beautiful appearance or liveness because the woven/knitted fabric looks different as the position of the observer relative to the woven/knitted fabric is changed by a motion of the wearer.
  • the conventional woven/knitted fabric disclosed in Japanese Unexamined Patent Application Publication No. 2004-232109 exhibits change in color between viewing it from directly above and viewing it from a certain angle because the upper fabric and the pile fabric have different colors from each other.
  • the knitted fabric does not exhibit a color effect such that a different color is visually recognized depending on whether the knitted fabric is viewed from one side or from the other side.
  • the conventional woven/knitted fabrics have the problem of having trouble exhibiting a sufficient color effect; therefore, even if they are used for clothes or the like, the clothes or the like are not necessarily provided with sufficient beauty or liveness.
  • the present invention has been achieved in view of the above-described circumstances, and an object thereof is to provide a woven/knitted fabric which allows an observer to visually recognize an intended color effect depending on the direction of viewing the woven/knitted fabric, without color visibility being greatly restricted by the direction or angle of viewing the woven/knitted fabric.
  • the woven/knitted fabric according to the present invention is a woven/knitted fabric having a plurality of ridges formed along one direction, characterized in that:
  • a ratio of visual recognition Va (A+B)/(A+B+C)) is not greater than 0.75, where A is an area of visual recognition of the top, B is an area of visual recognition of the side wall, and C is an area of visual recognition of others than the ridge.
  • A is an area of visual recognition of the top
  • B is an area of visual recognition of the side wall
  • C is an area of visual recognition of others than the ridge.
  • the distance L4 between the ridges falls below 0.2 mm
  • the ridge as visual recognition target is hidden by the ridge adjacent thereto, which produces a reduced color effect.
  • the ratio Ra is in the range of 0.8 to 7.9, the ratio of visual recognition Va is not less than 0.76.
  • the ratio Ra exceeds 7.9, the ratio of hiding by adjacent ridge Cr is not less than 4.2, while when the ratio Ra falls below 0.8, the ratio of visual recognition Va is not greater than 0.75.
  • the ratio Rb exceeds 1.6, the ratio of visual recognition of the side wall is too small as compared with the ratio of visual recognition of the top, and therefore change in color depending on the angle of view (color changeability) is insufficient and a preferable color effect is therefore not produced.
  • the ratio Rb falls below 0.4, a dimensionally stable ridge is not produced. Setting the ratio Rb in the aforementioned range allows the height of the ridge and the width of the ridge to be well balanced, which allows both the top and the side walls to exhibit a sufficient color effect.
  • the ratio of visual recognition of the side wall is too small as compared with the ratio of visual recognition of the top, and therefore change in color depending on the angle of view is insufficient and a preferable color effect is therefore not produced.
  • the ratio Rc exceeds 0.2, a yarn forming the top is very thin with respect to a yarn forming the side walls, in other words, the yarn forming the top has a much smaller fineness than the yarn forming the side walls; therefore, in order to form a dimensionally stable ridge, it is necessary to cause the yarn forming the top to have a smaller tension than the yarn forming the side walls.
  • the ratio Rc in the aforementioned range enhances the change in color depending on the angle of view, i.e., color changeability, and thereby allows the side walls to sufficiently exhibit their color effects. Note that when the ratio Rc is in the range of 0.2 to 0.9, the ratio of visual recognition Vb is not less than 0.06, while when the ratio Rc falls below 0.2, the ratio of visual recognition Vb is not greater than 0.05.
  • the ratio Rd exceeds 1.2, when the woven/knitted fabric is viewed from above (front side), the side walls are excessively covered by the top, which consequently prevents the side walls from sufficiently producing their color effects.
  • the ratio Rd falls below 0.4, the yarn forming the top is too thin with respect to the yarn forming the side walls, in other words, the yarn forming the top has a much smaller fineness than the yarn forming the side walls; therefore, in order to form a dimensionally stable ridge, it is necessary to cause the yarn forming the top to have a smaller tension than the yarn forming the side walls. Consequently, the colors of the side walls are visually recognized through clearances of the top, and therefore an excellent color effect is not produced.
  • the ratio Rd in the range of 0.4 to 1.2 increases an effect of hiding the side walls by the top, and thereby improves the color changeability.
  • the ratio of visual recognition Vb is not less than 0.06, while when the ratio Rd exceeds 1.2, the ratio of visual recognition Vb is not greater than 0.05.
  • the top and the two side walls may be formed by separate yarns.
  • At least one of the top and two side walls may be formed by a yarn different in color from other two of them.
  • the woven/knitted fabric is a warp-knitted fabric.
  • the ridges may have an inserted yarn inserted therein which is inserted to connect the ridges adjacent to each other; it is preferable that the inserted yarn is an elastic yarn.
  • a yarn row formed by at least one yarn may be formed between the ridges; it is preferable that the yarn row is formed by a transparent yarn.
  • the woven/knitted fabric according to the present invention is such that at least one of the top and two side walls constituting each ridge is different in color from other two of them; therefore, the woven/knitted fabric not only allows an observer to visually recognize a different color depending on the direction of viewing the woven/knitted fabric, but also provides high visibility of the colors of the top and two side walls. Therefore, the woven/knitted fabric according to the present invention exhibits an excellent color effect and excellent color changeability. Accordingly, when used for clothes or the like, the woven/knitted fabric can provide the clothes or the like with a very excellent, beautiful appearance and liveness.
  • Fig. 1 is a diagram showing details of a structure of a warp-knitted fabric 1 according to the embodiment
  • Fig. 2 is a sectional view taken along line A-A in Fig. 1 .
  • the warp-knitted fabric 1 is composed of a base 2 and ridges 6 formed along a knitting direction, each ridge 6 is constituted by a top 3 and two side walls 4, 5 respectively formed on sides of the top 3.
  • the top 3 is constituted by two chain-stitch rows 3a, 3b coupled to each other by a coupling yarn 3c
  • the side walls 4, 5 are respectively constituted by chain-stitch rows 4a, 5a, the chain-stitch rows 4a, 5a respectively having loops 4a 1 , 5a 1 , which are described later, respectively engaged with the two chain-stitch rows 3a, 3b. That is to say, the top 3 and the two side walls 4, 5 are formed by separate yarns.
  • the base 2 is constituted by chain-stitch rows 2a, 2b to which the chain-stitch rows 4a, 5a of the side walls 4, 5 are respectively joined, and coupling portions 2d formed between the ridges 6, each coupling portion 2d being formed by a chain-stitch row 2e knitted between the chain stitch rows 2a, 2b, and a coupling yarn 2c coupling the chain-stitch rows 2a, 2b, 2e to one another. Note that, in Fig.
  • the chain-stitch rows 3a, 3b of the top 3, the chain-stitch rows 4a, 5a of the side walls 4, 5, and the chain-stitch row 2e of the base 2 are indicated by solid lines, the coupling yarn 3c of the top 3 is indicated by a broken line, the coupling yarns 2c of the base 2 are indicated by dotted lines, and illustration of the chain-stitch rows 2a, 2b of the base 2 is omitted.
  • the two chain-stitch rows 3a, 3b of the top 3 use a knitting yarn of a first color
  • the chain-stitch row 4a of the side wall 4 uses a knitting yarn of a second color
  • the chain-stitch row 5a of the side wall 5 uses a knitting yarn of a third color
  • the chain-stitch rows 2a, 2b, 2e of the base 2 and the coupling yarns 2c, 3c use a transparent knitting yarn.
  • chain-stitch rows 2a, 2b of the base 2 may respectively use colored yarns of the same colors as those of the chain-stitch rows 4a, 5a of the side walls 4, 5 joined thereto, and the coupling yarn 3c of the top 3 may use a colored yarn of the same color as that of the chain-stitch rows 3a, 3b of the top 3.
  • examples of the knitting yarns used for the chain-stitch rows 2a, 2b, 2e of the base 2, knitting yarns used for the chain-stitch rows 3a, 3b and coupling yarn 3c of the top 3, and knitting yarns used for the chain-stitch rows 4a, 5a of the side walls 4, 5 include filament yarns, such as a polyester yarn, a nylon yarn, and a rayon yarn, as well as spun yarns.
  • examples of the coupling yarn 2c of the base 2 include highly transparent mono-filament yarns, such as made of polyester, thermoplastic elastomer, or nylon.
  • This warp-knitted fabric 1 can be knitted by using a well-known double raschel knitting machine which includes two needle beds having a plurality of knitting needles and oppositely arranged, and a feed mechanism feeding predetermined yarns to the needle beds.
  • the two chain-stitch rows 3a, 3b are knitted with the knitting yarn of the first color that is fed by the feed mechanism, and simultaneously the two chain-stitch rows 3a, 3b that are adjacent to each other in a wale direction are coupled to each other with the coupling yarn 3c, whereby the top 3 is formed.
  • the two chain-stitch rows 4a, 5a of the side walls 4, 5 are respectively knitted with the knitting yarn of the second and the knitting yarn of the third color that are fed by the feed mechanism, and the chain-stitch rows 2a, 2b, 2e of the base 2 are knitted with a transparent knitting yarn that is fed by the feed mechanism, and simultaneously the chain-stitch rows 2a, 2b, 2e are coupled to one another with a plurality of coupling yarns 2c along the wale direction.
  • the warp-knitted fabric 1 is knitted as follows: when the chain-stitch rows 4a, 5a of the side walls 4, 5 are knitted, the loops 4a 1 , 5a 1 are formed on sides facing the chain-stitch rows of the top 3 (sides facing the front-side needle bed) of the chain-stitch rows 4a, 5a, and the loops 4a 1 , 5a 1 are inserted into stitches of the chain-stitch rows 3a, 3b of the top 3, whereby the chain-stitch rows 4a, 5a of the side walls 4, 5 are engaged with the chain-stitch rows 3a, 3b of the top 3.
  • chain-stitch rows 4a, 5a of the side walls 4, 5 are knitted into the chain-stitch rows 2a, 2b of the base 2, whereby the chain-stitch rows 4a, 5a of the side walls 4, 5 are joined to the chain-stitch rows 2a, 2b of the base 2, respectively.
  • the top 3 is coupled to the base 2 by the side walls 4, 5, and consequently a three-dimensional warp-knitted fabric is knitted in which the ridges 6, which are each constituted by the top 3 and the side walls 4, 5, are formed on the base 2.
  • each ridge 6 is constituted by the top 3 and the side walls 4, 5 that are each constituted by a chain-stitch row or chain-stitch rows, the chain-stitch rows 4a, 5a of the side walls 4, 5 being engaged with the chain-stitch rows 3a, 3b of the top 3 and being knitted in the chain-stitch rows 2a, 2b of the base 2. Therefore, the ridges 6 have greater shape stability than the conventional ones.
  • This warp-knitted fabric 1 has the ridges 6 formed on one surface thereof, each ridge 6 being constituted by three elements, i.e., the top 3 and the two side walls 4, 5 located under the top 3, that is, the warp-knitted fabric 1 has an uneven shape. Knitting the warp-knitted fabric 1 such that at least one of the three elements is different in color from the other two elements allows an observer to visually recognize one or two intended colors in each of the cases of viewing the ridge 6 from directly above, viewing it from one side, and viewing it from the other side; therefore, the warp-knitted fabric 1 stably exhibits a great color effect. Accordingly, when used for clothes or the like, the knitted fabric 1 can provide the clothes or the like with a very excellent, beautiful appearance and liveness.
  • the top 3 has a first color and the two side walls 4, 5 have a second color that is different from that of the top 3, when the surface of the warp-knitted fabric 1 is viewed from the front side thereof, that is, when the ridge 6 is viewed from directly above, in a case where the breadth of the side walls 4, 5 is smaller than the width of the top 3, only the first color of the top 3 is visually recognized.
  • two colors i.e., the first color of the top 3 and the second color of the side walls 4, 5, are visually recognized.
  • the ridge 6 is viewed in the width direction thereof, the first color of the top 3 as well as the second color of the side wall 4, 5 are visually recognized.
  • the top 3 has the color red and the two side walls 4, 5 have the color blue
  • the surface of the warp-knitted fabric 1 is viewed from the front side thereof, that is, when the ridge 6 is viewed from directly above
  • the breadth of the side walls 4, 5 is smaller than the width of the top 3
  • only the color red of the top 3 is visually recognized.
  • two colors, i.e., the color red of the top 3 and the color blue of the side walls 4, 5 are visually recognized, which allows a striped pattern to be observed in which the color blue is arranged on both sides of the color red.
  • the warp-knitted fabric 1 is viewed at a different angle in the width direction of the ridge 6, the color of red of the top 3 as well as the color blue of the side walls 4, 5 are visually recognized.
  • top 3 and one of the side walls 4, 5, e.g., the side wall 4, have the same color and the other of the side walls 4, 5, e.g., the side wall 5, has a color different from that of the top 3 and side wall 4, when the surface of the warp-knitted fabric 1 is viewed from the front side thereof, that is, when the ridge 6 is viewed from directly above, in the case where the breadth of the side walls 4, 5 is smaller than the width of the top 3, only one color, i.e., only the color of the top 3, is visually recognized.
  • the top 3 and the side wall 4 have the color red and the side wall 5 has the color blue
  • the surface of the warp-knitted fabric 1 is viewed from the front side thereof, that is, when the ridge 6 is viewed from directly above, in the case where the breadth of the side walls 4, 5 is smaller than the width of the top 3, only the color red of the top 3 is visually recognized.
  • the color red of the top 3 and side wall 4 and the color blue of the side wall 5 are visually recognized, which produces a pattern in which a blue line, which is formed by the side wall 5, is arranged on one side of a thick red line, which is formed by the top 3 and the side wall 4.
  • a blue line which is formed by the side wall 5
  • a thick red line which is formed by the top 3 and the side wall 4.
  • top 3 and the two side walls 4, 5 have different colors from one another, when the surface of the warp-knitted fabric 1 is viewed from the front side thereof, that is, when the ridge 6 is viewed from directly above, in the case where the breadth of the side walls 4, 5 is smaller than the width of the top 3, only one color, i.e., the color of the top 3, is visually recognized. In contrast, in the case where the breadth of the side walls 4, 5 is greater than the width of the top 3, three colors, i.e., the color of the top 3 and the colors of the side walls 4, 5, are visually recognized.
  • the ridge 6 when the ridge 6 is viewed from the side wall 4 side, two colors, i.e., the color of the top 3 and the color of the side wall 4, are visually recognized, while when the ridge 6 is viewed from the side wall 5 side, two colors, i.e., the color of the top 3 and the color of the side wall 5, are visually recognized.
  • this warp-knitted fabric 1 exhibits a color effect such that an observer visually recognizes a different color depending on the position of the observer viewing the warp-knitted fabric 1.
  • the top 3 is always located above the two side walls 4, 5 and the top 3 has a large length in the width direction thereof; therefore, when the warp-knitted fabric 1 is viewed from one side wall (e.g., the side wall 4) side, a hiding effect by the top 3 is stably exhibited, which prevents the color of the other side wall (e.g., the side wall 5) to be visually recognized.
  • one side wall e.g., the side wall 4
  • the top 3 has a large length in the width direction thereof; therefore, when the warp-knitted fabric 1 is viewed from one side wall (e.g., the side wall 4) side, a hiding effect by the top 3 is stably exhibited, which prevents the color of the other side wall (e.g., the side wall 5) to be visually recognized.
  • the colored yarns are not limited in kind and can be freely selected for use from filament yarns, spun yarns, transparent yarns, elastic yarns, and the like as mentioned above.
  • the ratio Ra falls below 0.8, the ratio of visual recognition of the top 3 and the side wall 4, 5 to the overall area of visual recognition is small, and therefore an excellent color effect is not produced.
  • the ratio Ra is in the range of 0.8 to 7.9, the ratio of visual recognition Va is not less than 0.76.
  • the ratio Ra exceeds 7.9, the ratio of hiding by adjacent ridge Cr is not less than 4.2, while when the ratio Ra falls below 0.8, the ratio of visual recognition Va is not greater than 0.75.
  • the ratio Rb exceeds 1.6, the ratio of visual recognition of the side wall 4, 5 is too small as compared with the ratio of visual recognition of the top 3, and therefore change in color depending on the angle of view (color changeability) is insufficient and a preferable color effect is therefore not produced.
  • the ratio Rb falls below 0.4, a dimensionally stable ridge is not produced. Setting the ratio Rb in the range of 0.4 to 1.6 allows the height of the ridge 6 and the width of the ridge 6 to be well balanced, which allows both the top 3 and the side walls 4, 5 to exhibit a sufficient color effect.
  • the ratio of visual recognition of the side wall 4, 5 is too small as compared with the ratio of visual recognition of the top 3, and therefore change in color depending on the angle of view is insufficient and a preferable color effect is therefore not produced.
  • the ratio Rc exceeds 0.2, the yarn forming the top 3 is very thin with respect to the yarns forming the side walls 4, 5, in other words, the yarn forming the top 3 has a much smaller fineness than the yarns forming the side walls 4, 5; therefore, in order to form a dimensionally stable ridge 6, it is necessary to cause the yarn forming the top 3 to have a smaller tension than the yarns forming the side walls 4, 5.
  • the colors of the side walls 4, 5 are visually recognized through clearances of the top 3, and therefore an excellent color effect is not produced.
  • Setting the ratio Rc in the aforementioned range enhances the change in color depending on the angle of view, i.e., color changeability, and thereby allows the side walls 4, 5 to sufficiently exhibit their sufficient color effect. Note that when the ratio Rc is in the range of 0.2 to 0.9, the ratio of visual recognition Vb is not less than 0.06, while when the ratio Rc falls below 0.2, the ratio of visual recognition Vb is not greater than 0.05.
  • the ratio Rd exceeds 1.2, when the warp-knitted fabric 1 is viewed from above (front side), the side walls 4, 5 are excessively covered by the top 3, which consequently prevents the side walls 4, 5 from sufficiently producing their color effect.
  • the ratio Rd falls below 0.4, the yarn forming the top 3 is very thin with respect to the yarns forming the side walls 4, 5, in other words, the yarn forming the top 3 has a much smaller fineness than the yarns forming the side walls 4, 5; therefore, in order to form a dimensionally stable ridge 6, it is necessary to cause the yarn forming the top 3 to have a smaller tension than the yarns forming the side walls 4, 5.
  • the colors of the side walls 4, 5 are visually recognized through clearances of the top 3, and therefore an excellent color effect is not produced. Accordingly, setting the ratio Rd in the range of 0.4 to 1.2 increases an effect of hiding the side walls 4, 5 by the top 3, and thereby improves the color changeability. Note that when the ratio Rd is in the range of 0.4 to 1.2, the ratio of visual recognition Vb is not less than 0.06, while when the ratio Rd exceeds 1.2, the ratio of visual recognition Vb is not greater than 0.05.
  • the width L1 of the top 3, the thickness L2 of the top 3, the thickness L3 of the side walls 4, 5, the distance L4 between the ridges 6 adjacent to each other, and the breadth L5 between the wall surfaces of the side walls 4, 5 of one ridge 6 depend on the distance between the two needle beds of the double raschel knitting machine, the gauge of the knitting machine, the tensile moduli of the knitting yarns, and the tensions of the knitting yarns. Therefore, the distance between the needle beds and the knitting machine's gauge are set as appropriate, or the tensions and the like in knitting are adjusted as appropriate, so that the color effect of the warp-knitted fabric 1 is maximized, that is, so that the dimensions L1 to L5 satisfy the aforementioned relations.
  • the ratios Ra to Rd may be adjusted by use of the total finenesses of the yarns.
  • the fineness of the yarn used for the two chain-stitch rows 3a, 3b of the top 3 and the fineness of the yarn used for the coupling yarn 3c of the top 3 are connected to the top width L1 and the top thickness L2.
  • the fineness of the yarn used for the chain-stitch row 4a of the side wall 4 and the fineness of the yarn used for the chain-stitch row 5a of the side wall 5 are each connected to the side wall height L3. It is preferable that these four yarns each use a yarn having a total fineness of 8 to 500 dtex.
  • a yarn having a total fineness of 167 dtex is particularly preferable.
  • the finenesses of the yarns used for the coupling portion 2d formed between the ridges 6, i.e., the fineness of the yarn used for the chain-stitch row 2e and the fineness of the yarn used for the coupling yarn 2c are connected to the distance L4 between the ridges 6.
  • the coupling yarn 2c has a total fineness of 50 to 800 dtex; a total fineness of 100 dtex is particularly preferable in view of the operational stability of the knitting machine in knitting and the dimensional stability of the ridge 6.
  • the yarn used for the chain-stitch row 2e has a total fineness of 100 to 800 dtex; a total fineness of 400 dtex is particularly preferable.
  • the dimensions L1 to L5 may be adjusted by using a pin tenter so that they satisfy the aforementioned relations.
  • the obtained warp-knitted fabric 1 is heat set at the temperature of 180 °C for one minute with 0 % overfeed rate in a warp direction, during which tentering is performed by the pin tenter.
  • Both Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 10 are directed to a warp-knitted fabric as shown in Figs. 1 and 2 that was knitted by the above-described knitting method using a double raschel knitting machine and was heat set by a pin tenter as described above.
  • the warp-knitted fabric was knitted such that the chain-stitch rows 2a, 4a had a first color, the chain-stitch rows 2b, 5a had a second color, and the chain-stitch rows 3a, 3b and the coupling yarn 3c had a third color; accordingly, the elements, i.e., the top 3, the side wall 4, and the side wall 5 have different colors from one another.
  • the knitting yarn for the chain-stitch row 2e of the base 2 employed transparent polyester monofilament and the coupling yarn 2d of the base 2 employed a transparent polyester elastomer yarn; accordingly, the base 2 is transparent.
  • the conditions in the double raschel knitting machine, the yarn finenesses, and the setting shrinkage percentage of the knitted fabric were set as shown in Figs. 4 and 5 .
  • the width L1 of the top 3, the distance L4 between the ridges 6, and the breadth L5 between the wall surfaces of the side walls 4, 5 of one ridge 6 were each calculated by placing the warp-knitted fabric 1 in a no-load state on a stage of a digital microscope VHX-2000 manufactured by Hitachi, Ltd., capturing images of the front-side surface of the warp-knitted fabric 1 at 50-fold lens magnification with the microscope, measuring the corresponding length in each of five randomly selected different images of the ridges 6, and averaging the obtained five measured values.
  • the warp-knitted fabric 1 was placed with the front-side surface up and in a no-load state on the stage of the microscope; as for the width L1 of the top 3, the length (distance) from a single yarn edge of the knitting yarn forming the top 3 designated as one side edge of the top 3 to another single yarn edge of the knitting yarn forming the top 3 designated as the other side edge of the top 3 was measured.
  • the breadth L5 of the side walls 4, 5 of one ridge 6 the length from a single yarn edge of the knitting yarn forming the side wall 4 as an edge of the side wall 4 to a single yarn edge of the knitting yarn forming the side wall 5 as an edge of the side wall 5 was measured in the same way as L1.
  • the distance L4 between the ridges 6 the length (of a transparent portion) from the side wall 4, 5 of a ridge 6 to the side wall 4, 5 of a ridge 6 adjacent thereto was measured in the same way as L1 and L5.
  • the thickness L2 of the top 3 and the height L3 of the side walls 4, 5 were each calculated by cutting the knitting yarns 2d and 2e between the ridges 6, randomly selecting five ridges 6 as measurement target, placing each of the selected ridges 6 in a no-load state on the stage of the digital microscope VHX-2000 manufactured by Hitachi, Ltd., with the front-side surface of the ridge 6 inclined 90° in the side-surface direction thereof to turn the side wall 4 or the side wall 5 upward, capturing an image of each ridge 6 at 50-fold lens magnification with the microscope, measuring the corresponding length in each of the captured images, and averaging the obtained five measured values.
  • the length (distance) from a single yarn edge of the knitting yarn as one side edge to another single yarn edge of the knitting yarn as the other side edge was measured such that the length of the top 3 in the thickness direction thereof was largest.
  • the length (distance) from a single yarn edge of the knitting yarn as one side edge to another single yarn edge of the knitting yarn as the other side edge was measured in the same way as L2 such that the length of the side wall 4, 5 in the height direction thereof was largest.
  • the distance L4 between the ridges 6 is large; therefore, when a ridge 6 is viewed from obliquely above (X direction) at an angle of 30° with respect to a vertical line, the ratio of visual recognition of the ridge 6 to the distance L4 between the ridges 6 is smaller than that of the knitted fabric in Example 1, which causes the ridge 6 to produce a less color effect than the ridge 6 of the knitted fabric in Example 1.
  • the distance L4 between the ridges 6 is small; therefore, when a ridge 6 is viewed from obliquely above (X direction) at an angle of 30° with respect to a vertical line, the distance L4 between the ridges 6 is not visually recognized. Therefore, the ratio of visual recognition of the ridge 6 to the distance L4 between ridges 6 is greater than that of the knitted fabric in Example 1, which causes the ridge 6 to produce a greater color effect than the ridge 6 of the knitted fabric in Example 1.
  • the ratio of visual recognition Vb is small, that is, the ratio of visual recognition of the top 3 is large; therefore, if the thickness L2 of the top 3 is made larger, the change in color depending on the angle of view is not sufficiently exhibited. Further, the ratio Rd is at the maximum; therefore, if the width L1 of the top 3 is made larger, the side walls 4, 5 are excessively covered by the top 3, which prevents the side walls 4, 5 from successively producing their color effects.
  • the distance L4 between the ridges 6 is at the maximum and the thickness (L2+L3) of the ridge 6 with respect to the distance L4, i.e., the ratio Ra, is at the minimum; therefore, the ridge 6 produces a minimal color effect.
  • the ratio Rb is small and the ratio of visual recognition Vb is therefore also small.
  • the ratio Rc is small; therefore, the side walls 4, 5 produces a greater color effect with respect to the top 3 than those of the knitted fabrics in Examples 3 and 4 and the color changeability depending on the angle of view is therefore greater.
  • the ratio Rd is small; therefore, the side walls 4, 5 are not sufficiently covered by the top 3, which allows the top 3 as well as the side walls 4, 5 to be visually recognized from directly above.
  • the ratio Ra is large; therefore, the ratio of visual recognition of the ridge 6 to the distance L4 between the ridges 6 is large and the ridge 6 therefore produces a great color effect.
  • the ratio Rc is small; therefore, when a ridge 6 is viewed from obliquely above in the adjacent direction thereof, the ratio of visual recognition of the side wall 4, 5 is large. If the thickness of the side walls 4, 5 is made larger, the ratio of hiding by adjacent ridge Cr becomes excessively large, which prevents the ridge 6 as visual recognition target from sufficiently exhibiting its color effect.
  • the knitted fabrics in Comparative Examples 1 to 10 were each knitted such that at least one of the distance L4 between the ridges 6 and ratios Ra, Rb, Rc, and Rd does not satisfy the aforementioned conditions. Therefore, the ridge 6 does not sufficiently exhibit its color effect, or the ratio of visual recognition of the side walls 4, 5 is very small with respect to the ratio of visual recongition of the top 3 and the color changeability is therefore insufficient.
  • the width L1 of the top 3, the distance L4 between the ridges 6, the breadth L5 of the side walls 4, 5, the thickness L2 of the top 3, and the height L3 of the side walls 4, 5 were measured in the same way as described above for Examples 1 to 6.
  • the distance L4 between the ridges 6 is too large; therefore, the ratio of visual recognition of the portion between the ridges 6 is increased, that tis, the ratio of visual recognition Va falls below 0.75, which lessens the color effect of the entire knitted fabric.
  • the distance L4 between the ridges 6 is too small; therefore, the ratio of hiding by adjacent ridge Cr exceeds 4.2 and a ridge 6 as visual recognition target is therefore hidden by the ridges 6 adjacent thereto, which results in a reduced color effect.
  • the ridge 6 is thick and short; therefore, the ratio of visual recognition Vb is small, -0.01, and the ratio of visual recognition of the side walls 4, 5 is therefore small, which prevents the side walls 4, 5 to exhibit a sufficient color effect, and thereby results in insufficient color changeability.
  • the ridge 6 is thin and long; therefore, a dimensionally stable ridge 6 cannot be formed.
  • the yarn forming the top 3 is very thin with respect to the yarns forming the side walls 4, 5 (the yarn forming the top 3 has a much smaller fineness than the yarns forming the side walls 4, 5); therefore, the colors of the yarns forming the side walls 4, 5 are viewed through clearances of the yarn forming the top 3, which results in a reduced color effect.
  • the ratio of visual recognition Vb falls below 0.05; therefore, when the ridge 6 is viewed obliquely, the ratio of visual recognition of the color of the top 3 is large and the side wall 4, 5 does not sufficiently exhibiting its color effect
  • the walls are excessively covered by the top and the ratio of visual recognition Vb falls below 0.05; therefore, the ratio of visual recognition of the color of the top 3 is large and the side wall 4, 5 does not exhibit its color effect.
  • the yarn forming the top 3 is very thin with respect to the yarns forming the side walls 4, 5 (the yarn forming the top 3 has a much smaller fineness than the yarns forming the side walls 4, 5); therefore, the colors of the yarns forming the side walls 4, 5 are viewed through clearances of the yarn forming the top 3, which results in a reduced color effect.
  • the distance L4 between the ridges 6 is too small; therefore, the ratio of hiding by adjacent ridge Cr exceeds 4.2 and a ridge 6 as visual recognition target is hidden by the ridges 6 adjacent thereto, which results in a reduced color effect.
  • the distance L4 between the ridges 6 is too large; therefore, the ratio of visual recognition Va is 0.75 and the ratio of visual recognition of the portion between the ridges 6 is large, which lessens the color effect of the entire knitted fabric.
  • the knitted fabrics in Examples 1 to 6 sufficiently exhibit the color effect produced by the ridges 6 and present great color changeability when the angle of view is changed.
  • the present invention is not limited to such a warp-knitted fabric and may be embodied as a weft-knitted fabric. Further, the present invention is not limited to a knitted fabric and may be embodied as a woven fabric as long as it has the ridges 6 as described above. Such a woven fabric also provides a similar effect as described above.
  • the ridges 6 may have an inserted yarn inserted therein which is inserted to connect the ridges 6 adjacent to each other; the inserted yarn can employ an elastic yarn.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
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WO2018123531A1 (fr) * 2016-12-26 2018-07-05 東レ株式会社 Structure de fibres
CN108277574B (zh) * 2018-04-10 2024-01-23 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 一种具有变色功能的提花贾卡面料及其制作方法
CN111519335B (zh) * 2019-02-01 2023-02-07 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 一种变色针织面料
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CN112626699B (zh) * 2020-11-19 2022-05-17 福建省晋江市华宇织造有限公司 一种变色网布
CN113789603B (zh) * 2021-08-14 2023-09-05 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 一种可隐藏杂色的半透挑孔编织面料及其编织方法、应用

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CN109415855A (zh) 2019-03-01

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