WO2017209140A1 - Tissu tissé/tricoté - Google Patents

Tissu tissé/tricoté Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2017209140A1
WO2017209140A1 PCT/JP2017/020136 JP2017020136W WO2017209140A1 WO 2017209140 A1 WO2017209140 A1 WO 2017209140A1 JP 2017020136 W JP2017020136 W JP 2017020136W WO 2017209140 A1 WO2017209140 A1 WO 2017209140A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
side wall
yarn
knitted fabric
color
ratio
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/JP2017/020136
Other languages
English (en)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
昌志 近田
聡 成子
高橋　章
Original Assignee
東レ株式会社
株式会社ニューニット
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by 東レ株式会社, 株式会社ニューニット filed Critical 東レ株式会社
Priority to CN201780034114.XA priority Critical patent/CN109415855A/zh
Priority to JP2018520934A priority patent/JPWO2017209140A1/ja
Priority to US16/302,029 priority patent/US20190309449A1/en
Priority to EP17806693.2A priority patent/EP3453793A4/fr
Publication of WO2017209140A1 publication Critical patent/WO2017209140A1/fr

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D3/00—Woven fabrics characterised by their shape
    • D03D3/08—Arched, corrugated, or like fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/16—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/06—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/18—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating elastic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/20—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D11/00—Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/20—Physical properties optical
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01—Surface features
    • D10B2403/011—Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0113—One surface including hollow piping or integrated straps, e.g. for inserts or mountings
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01—Surface features
    • D10B2403/011—Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0114—Dissimilar front and back faces with one or more yarns appearing predominantly on one face, e.g. plated or paralleled yarns
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/02—Cross-sectional features

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a woven fabric and a knitted fabric having ridges formed along one direction (hereinafter collectively referred to as “woven fabric”), and in particular, depending on the position of an observer viewing the woven fabric.
  • the present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric in which the color visually recognized by the observer is changed.
  • a knitted fabric with such a color effect for example, a knitted fabric with a color effect in which the color visually recognized differs depending on the viewing direction by shielding the color yarn bundle with a blind yarn (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2012-2012). No. 97390), or a knitted fabric in which a three-dimensional color effect is imparted to a protruding portion formed by a pile fabric and a chain stitch row by using colored yarn as a yarn constituting the chain stitch row (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2004-232109) Has been proposed.
  • the conventional knitted fabric disclosed in the above Japanese Laid-Open Patent Publication No. 2012-97390 inserts a yarn by swinging the same needle so that two yarns of different colors are bundled, and blind yarn so as to cover the upper part thereof
  • the blind yarn obstructs the visibility of the other yarn, only one yarn is visible, and the knitted fabric is
  • the blind thread hinders the visibility of one thread, and only the other thread is visually recognized. Therefore, when one thread and the other thread have different colors, the color visually recognized depending on the viewing direction The color effect is different.
  • the conventional woven or knitted fabric disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2004-232109 is a composite fabric in which the upper and the base are joined by a pile fabric, and the ridge and the knitted fabric are formed by the upper and the pile fabric formed by the chain stitch row.
  • the part is formed, and the upper knitted chain is composed of yarns of different colors, or the pile ground is composed of colors different from the yarns constituting the upper part, for example, when the ridges are viewed from directly above
  • the color effect is such that only the color of the upper ground is visually recognized and the color of the upper ground and the color of the pile ground are visually recognized when viewed from a certain angle.
  • JP 2012-97390 A Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2004-232109
  • the conventional knitted fabric disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2012-97390 differs in the insertion method of the blind yarn and the color yarn bundle, so that the shielding effect of the color yarn bundle varies depending on the place. Therefore, for example, when the position of the blind yarn is greatly biased to one of the two colored yarns, the intended shielding effect cannot be obtained. Since it is visually recognized, there is a problem that it is in a state of lack of unity and it is difficult to obtain a sufficient color effect.
  • the conventional woven or knitted fabric disclosed in the above Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2004-232109 has a color change between when viewed from directly above and when viewed from an angle by making the upper and pile fabrics different colors.
  • the color effect that the visible color is switched between when the knitted fabric is viewed from one side and when the knitted fabric is viewed from the other side is not exhibited.
  • the conventional knitted fabric has a problem that a sufficient color effect is difficult to be exhibited, even if it is used for clothes, the aesthetic feeling and dynamic feeling imparted to the clothes are not always sufficient. It is not a thing.
  • the present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and the color effect is not greatly limited by the direction and angle of viewing the woven fabric, and the intended color effect is observed depending on the direction of viewing the woven fabric.
  • the purpose is to provide a woven or knitted fabric that can be visually recognized by a person.
  • the inventor pays attention to the concavo-convex shape on the surface of the woven and knitted fabric, and the ratio between the intervals between the ridges, the dimensions of the ridges, and the dimensions of each part constituting the ridges are suitable ratios. By making it into a relationship, it discovered that the outstanding color effect was exhibited stably, and came to complete this invention.
  • the woven or knitted fabric according to the present invention is a woven or knitted fabric having a plurality of ridges formed along one direction, Each of the ridges is composed of a top part and two side wall parts located below the top part, one side wall part constituting each ridge part is provided substantially parallel to each other, and the other side wall part is also Provided substantially parallel to each other, and at least one of the top portion and the two side wall portions has a different color from the other two, Further, at least some of the plurality of ridges are arranged such that a distance L4 between adjacent ridges is 0.2 to 2.5 mm, and the protrusions
  • the width of the top in the adjacent direction of the strip is L1
  • the thickness of the top in the height direction of the convex strip is L2
  • the height of the two side walls in the height direction is L3
  • the two sidewalls A woven or knitted fabric characterized in that L1 to L5 are set so as to satisfy the following relationship, with L5 being the wall surface interval in
  • the adjacent ridges are the ridges to be visually recognized.
  • the color effect of the ridges is sufficiently exhibited.
  • the distance L4 between the ridges exceeds 2.5 mm, the distance L4 between the ridges is too wide, so that the ratio of the area where the top part and the side wall part are visually recognized with respect to the entire visual recognition area. Therefore, an excellent color effect cannot be obtained. For example, as shown in FIG.
  • the top viewing area is A
  • the side wall viewing area is B
  • the distance L4 between the ridges is less than 0.2 mm, the ridges to be visually recognized are shielded by the adjacent ridges, so that the color effect is reduced.
  • the ratio Ra is set within the above range, the color effect by the ridges is sufficiently exhibited. That is, when the woven fabric is viewed obliquely from above in the adjacent direction of the ridge, if the ratio Ra exceeds 7.9, the ridge to be visually recognized is shielded by the adjacent ridge, and its side wall Since it becomes impossible to visually recognize the bottom part between the part and the protruding line part, the visually recognized color effect is lowered.
  • the ratio Ra is less than 0.8, the visual recognition ratio of the top part and the side wall part with respect to the visual recognition area becomes small, so that an excellent color effect cannot be obtained.
  • the ratio Ra is in the range of 0.8 to 7.9, the visual recognition ratio Va is 0.76 or more.
  • the ratio Ra exceeds 7.9, the adjacent protruding portion shielding ratio Cr is 4.2 or more, and when the ratio Ra is less than 0.8, the visual recognition ratio Va is 0.75 or less. It becomes.
  • the ratio Rb exceeds 1.6, the rate at which the side wall portion is visually recognized is too small compared to the top portion, so that the color change (color changeability) depending on the viewing angle becomes poor, and a good color effect is obtained. I can't get it.
  • the ratio Rb is less than 0.4, a dimensionally stable ridge cannot be obtained.
  • the ratio Rc is less than 0.2, the rate at which the side wall portion is visually recognized is too small compared to the top portion, so that the color change depending on the viewing angle becomes poor, and a good color effect cannot be obtained.
  • the ratio Rc exceeds 0.2, the yarn constituting the top portion is very thin with respect to the yarn constituting the side wall portion, that is, the fineness of the yarn constituting the top portion constitutes the side wall portion. Therefore, in order to form a dimensionally stable ridge portion, the tension of the yarn constituting the top portion is made smaller than the tension of the yarn constituting the side wall portion. For this reason, the color of the side wall is visually recognized from the gap at the top, and an excellent color effect cannot be obtained.
  • the ratio Rc in the above range, the color change depending on the viewing angle, that is, the color changeability becomes large, and the color effect of the side wall portion is sufficiently exhibited.
  • the ratio Rc is in the range of 0.2 to 0.9, the visual recognition ratio Vb is 0.06 or more.
  • the ratio Rc is less than 0.2, the visual recognition ratio Vb is 0.05. It becomes as follows.
  • the ratio Rd exceeds 1.2, when viewed from above (front), the top part covers the side wall part too much, and as a result, the color effect of the side wall part cannot be sufficiently obtained.
  • the ratio Rd is less than 0.4, the yarn constituting the top portion becomes very thin with respect to the yarn constituting the side wall portion, that is, the fineness of the yarn constituting the top portion constitutes the side wall portion. Therefore, in order to form a dimensionally stable ridge, it is necessary to make the tension of the yarn constituting the top portion smaller than the tension of the yarn constituting the side wall portion. For this reason, the color of the side wall is visually recognized from the gap at the top, and an excellent color effect cannot be obtained.
  • the ratio Rd is in the range of 0.4 to 1.2, the visual recognition ratio Vb is 0.06 or more.
  • the visual recognition ratio Vb is 0.05. It becomes as follows.
  • the excellent color effect is exhibited by satisfy
  • the top portion and the two side wall portions may be formed of independent yarns.
  • At least one of the top portion and the two side wall portions may be formed of a thread having a different color from the other two.
  • a warp knitted fabric is more preferable.
  • a yarn row composed of at least one yarn may be formed between the protruding portions, and the yarn row is preferably formed from a transparent yarn.
  • the top portion and the two side wall portions constituting the ridge portion has a color different from that of the other two, so the direction in which the woven fabric is viewed.
  • the color of the top and the two side walls is highly visible, so that the woven and knitted fabric is applied to the garment in order to exhibit an excellent color effect and color change.
  • FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional view in the direction of arrow AA in FIG. It is explanatory drawing for demonstrating the effect of this invention. It is explanatory drawing for demonstrating the Example which concerns on this invention. It is explanatory drawing for demonstrating the comparative example with respect to this invention.
  • FIG. 1 is a diagram showing details of the structure of the warp knitted fabric 1 according to the present embodiment
  • FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional view in the direction of arrows AA in FIG.
  • the warp knitted fabric 1 includes a base 2, a top 3, and two side walls 4, 5 formed on both sides of the top 3, along the knitting direction.
  • the ridge portion 6 is formed.
  • the top portion 3 is composed of two chain knitting rows 3a and 3b connected by a connecting yarn 3c, and the side wall portions 4 and 5 have loops 4a 1 and 5a 1 (to be described later) connected to the two chain knitting rows 3a and 3b. It consists of chain knitting rows 4a and 5a which are locked respectively. That is, the top portion 3 and the two side wall portions 4 and 5 are formed of independent yarns.
  • the base portion 2 includes chain knitting rows 2a and 2b in which the chain knitting rows 4a and 5a of the side wall portions 4 and 5 are connected, and a chain knitting row 2e knitted between these chain knitting rows 2a and 2b.
  • the chain knitting rows 3 a and 3 b constituting the top portion 3 the chain knitting rows 4 a and 5 a constituting the side wall portions 4 and 5, and the chain knitting row 2 e constituting the base portion 2 are connected by a solid line and the top portion 3.
  • the yarn 3c is indicated by a broken line
  • the connecting yarn 2c of the base 2 is indicated by a dotted line
  • the chain knitting rows 2a and 2b of the base 2 are not shown.
  • the first color knitting yarn is formed on the two chain knitting rows 3 a and 3 b constituting the top portion 3, and the second color knitting is formed on the chain knitting row 4 a constituting the side wall portion 4.
  • a third knitting yarn is used for the yarn and the chain knitting row 5a of the side wall 5, and transparent knitting yarn is used for the chain knitting rows 2a, 2b, 2e and the connecting yarns 2c, 3c constituting the base portion 2. I am using it.
  • the chain yarns 2a and 2b constituting the base portion 2 may use colored yarns having the same color as the chain yarn rows 4a and 5a of the side wall portions 4 and 5 to be connected to each other.
  • 3c may use color yarns of the same color as the chain knitting rows 3a and 3b constituting the top portion 3.
  • the knitting used for the chain knitting rows 2a, 2b, 2e of the base 2, the chain knitting rows 3a, 3b and the connecting yarn 3c of the top 3, and the chain knitting rows 4a, 5a of the side walls 4, 5 are used.
  • the yarn include polyester yarn, nylon yarn, filament yarn such as rayon yarn, and spun yarn.
  • the connection yarn 2c of the base portion 2 a highly transparent monofilament yarn made of polyester, thermoplastic elastomer, nylon or the like can be exemplified.
  • the warp knitted fabric 1 is a known double raschel knitting machine having a plurality of knitting needles, two rows of needle beds arranged opposite to each other, and a supply mechanism for supplying a predetermined yarn to the needle beds. Can be used to organize.
  • the two chain knitting rows 4a and 5a constituting the side wall portions 4 and 5 are formed by the second and third color knitting yarns supplied by the supply mechanism. While knitting each, and knitting the chain knitting rows 2a, 2b, 2e constituting the base 2 with the transparent knitting yarn supplied by the supply mechanism, the space between the chain knitting rows 2a, 2b, 2e is along the wale direction. Are connected by a plurality of connecting yarns 2c.
  • the warp knitted fabric 1 of this example is knitting the chain knitting rows 4a and 5a of the side wall portions 4 and 5, the side facing the chain knitting row of the top 3 (the side facing the front needle bed).
  • the loops 4a 1 and 5a 1 are formed in the loop 4a 1 and 5a 1 and the loops 4a 1 and 5a 1 are inserted into the stitches of the chain braids 3a and 3b of the top 3 so that the chain braids 4a and 5a of the side walls 4 and 5 are
  • the chain braid rows 2a and 2b of the base portion 2 are knitted into the chain braid rows 2a and 2b of the base portion 2 while the chain braid rows 4a and 5a of the side wall portions 4 and 5 are engaged with the chain braid rows 3a and 3b of the top portion 3, respectively.
  • 2b and the chain knitting rows 4a, 5a of the side wall portions 4, 5 are connected to each other.
  • the base portion 2 and the top portion 3 are connected by the side wall portions 4 and 5, and the one-dimensional three-dimensional warp knitting in which the protruding portion 6 including the top portion 3 and the side wall portions 4 and 5 is formed on the base portion 2.
  • the ground is organized.
  • the ridge portion 6 includes a top portion 3 and side wall portions 4 and 5 each formed of a chain knitting row, and the chain knitting rows 4a and 5a constituting the side wall portions 4 and 5 are the chain knitting rows of the top portion 3. Since it is locked to 3a, 3b and is knitted in the chain knitting rows 2a, 2b of the base 2, the shape stability of each ridge 6 is higher than before.
  • the warp knitted fabric 1 has a concavo-convex shape having, on one surface, three portions, that is, a ridge portion 6 constituted by a top portion 3 and two side wall portions 4 and 5 positioned below the top portion 3.
  • a ridge portion 6 constituted by a top portion 3 and two side wall portions 4 and 5 positioned below the top portion 3.
  • the viewer When viewed from the other side, the viewer can visually recognize the intended one or two colors in each direction when viewed from the other side, and stably displays a high color effect.
  • it is used for the clothes it is possible to give the clothes and the like a very good aesthetic and dynamic feeling.
  • the color of the top part 3 is the first color and the color of the two side wall parts 4 and 5 is the second color different from the top part 3, from the front of the surface of the warp knitted fabric 1, that is, the ridge part
  • the width of the side wall portions 4 and 5 is smaller than the width of the top portion 3
  • the width of the side wall portions 4 and 5 is the width of the top portion 3.
  • the two colors of the first color of the top portion 3 and the second color of the side wall portions 4 and 5 are visually recognized.
  • the second color of the side walls 4, 5 is visually recognized in addition to the first color of the top 3.
  • the top portion 3 is red and the two side wall portions 4 and 5 are blue
  • the width of the side walls 4 and 5 is smaller than the width of the top
  • only the red color of the top 3 is visually recognized.
  • the width of the side walls 4 and 5 is larger than the width of the top 3
  • the blue color of the side wall portions 4 and 5 are visually recognized, and a striped pattern in which blue is arranged at both ends of red is observed.
  • the warp knitted fabric 1 is viewed with the angle changed in the width direction of the ridges 6, the blue color of the side wall parts 4 and 5 is visually recognized in addition to the red color of the top part 3.
  • the front surface of the warp knitted fabric 1 is obtained. That is, when the ridge 6 is viewed from directly above, when the width of the side walls 4, 5 is smaller than the width of the top 3, only one color of the top 3 is visible and the width of the side walls 4, 5 is Is larger than the width of the top portion 3, two colors of the top portion 3 and the side wall portion 4 and the side wall portion 5 are visually recognized.
  • the color of the top 3 and the one side wall 4 is visually recognized, but when the color of the top 3 and the one side wall 4 is the same color, this one color Only visible. Moreover, since the color of the said top part 3 and the color of the said other side wall part 5 are different colors when it sees from the other side wall part 5 side, two colors are visually recognized.
  • the front surface of the warp knitted fabric 1 surface that is, the ridge portion 6 is directly above.
  • the width of the side wall portions 4 and 5 is smaller than the width of the top portion 3
  • only the red color of the top portion 3 is visually recognized
  • the width of the side wall portions 4 and 5 is larger than the width of the top portion 3
  • the red color of the top part 3 and the one side wall part 4 and the blue color of the other side wall part 5 are visually recognized, and the other side wall part 5 is formed on one side of the thick red line formed by the top part 3 and the one side wall part 4. A blue line is placed.
  • the top 3 and the two side walls 4 and 5 have different colors
  • the warp knitted fabric 1 surface is viewed from the front, that is, when the ridge 6 is viewed from directly above, the side walls 4 and 5
  • the width is smaller than the width of the top portion 3
  • only one color of the top portion 3 is visually recognized.
  • the width of the side wall portions 4 and 5 is larger than the width of the top portion 3, the color of the top portion 3 and the side wall portion 4. , 5 colors are visually recognized.
  • two colors of the color of the one side wall 4 are visible, and when viewed from the other side wall 5, In addition to the color, two colors of the other side wall 5 are visually recognized.
  • the top part 3 is always located in the upper part of the two side wall parts 4 and 5, and the length of the width direction of the top part 3 is also large, from one side wall part (for example, side wall part 4).
  • the shielding effect by the top 3 is stably exhibited, and thus the color of the other side wall (for example, the side wall 5) is not visually recognized.
  • the type is particularly limited as long as at least one of the top portion 3 and the two side wall portions 4 and 5 has a different color from the other portions as described above.
  • filament yarn, spun yarn, transparent yarn, elastic yarn and the like can be freely selected and used.
  • variety of the top part 3 is L1
  • the thickness of the top part 3 is L2
  • the height of the side wall parts 4 and 5 is L3
  • the adjacent convex part 6 Assuming that the interval between them is L4 and the width between the wall surfaces of the side wall parts 4 and 5 constituting one ridge 6 is L5, these dimensions are set to have the following relationship.
  • L4 0.2-2.5mm
  • the adjacent ridges 6 do not shield the ridges 6 to be visually recognized.
  • the color effect of the ridge portion 6 is sufficiently exhibited.
  • the distance L4 exceeds 2.5 mm, the distance L4 between the ridges 6 becomes too wide, so the ratio of the area where the top 3 and the side walls 4 and 5 are visually recognized with respect to the entire visible area. Therefore, an excellent color effect cannot be obtained.
  • FIG. 3 when the ridge 6 is viewed obliquely upward (in the X direction) inclined by 30 ° with respect to the vertical line, the viewing area of the top 3 is A and the side walls 4 and 5 are visually recognized.
  • the distance L4 between the ridges 6 is less than 0.2 mm, the ridges 6 to be visually recognized are shielded by the adjacent ridges 6 so that the color effect is reduced.
  • the ratio Ra within the range of 0.8 to 7.9, the color effect by the ridges 6 is sufficiently exhibited. That is, when the warp knitted fabric 1 is viewed from obliquely above in the adjacent direction of the ridges 6 and the ratio Ra exceeds 7.9, the ridges 6 to be visually recognized are shielded by the adjacent ridges 6. Since it becomes impossible to visually recognize the connecting portions 2d between the side wall portions 4 and 5 and the ridge portions 6, the visually recognized color effect is lowered. On the other hand, when the ratio Ra is less than 0.8, the visual recognition ratio between the top 3 and the side walls 4 and 5 with respect to the visual recognition area becomes small, and thus an excellent color effect cannot be obtained.
  • the ratio Ra is in the range of 0.8 to 7.9, the visual recognition ratio Va is 0.76 or more.
  • the ratio Ra is greater than 7.9, the adjacent ridge shielding ratio Cr is 4.2 or more, and when the ratio Ra is less than 0.8, the visual recognition ratio Va is 0.75 or less.
  • the ratio Rb exceeds 1.6, the rate at which the side wall parts 4 and 5 are visually recognized is too small compared to the top part 3, so that the color change (color changeability) depending on the viewing angle becomes poor and good. Color effect cannot be obtained.
  • the ratio Rb is less than 0.4, a dimensionally stable ridge cannot be obtained.
  • the ratio Rb within the range of 0.4 to 1.6, the balance between the height of the ridges 6 and the width of the ridges 6 can be improved. , 5 exhibit a sufficient color effect.
  • the ratio Rc is less than 0.2, the rate at which the side wall parts 4 and 5 are visually recognized is too small as compared with the top part 3, so that the color change due to the viewing angle becomes poor, and a good color effect is obtained. I can't.
  • the ratio Rc exceeds 0.2, the yarn constituting the top portion 3 is very thin with respect to the yarn constituting the side wall portions 4 and 5, that is, the fineness of the yarn constituting the top portion 3. Is much smaller than the fineness of the yarn constituting the side walls 4 and 5, and in order to form the dimensionally stable ridge 6, the tension of the yarn constituting the top 3 is set to the side wall.
  • the ratio Rc in the above range, the color change depending on the viewing angle, that is, the color changeability becomes large, and the color effect of the side wall portions 4 and 5 is sufficiently exhibited.
  • the ratio Rc is in the range of 0.2 to 0.9, the visual recognition ratio Vb is 0.06 or more.
  • the ratio Rc is less than 0.2, the visual recognition ratio Vb is 0.05. It becomes as follows.
  • the top 3 covers the side walls 4 and 5 too much when viewed from above (front), and as a result, the color effects of the side walls 4 and 5 are sufficient. Can not be obtained.
  • the ratio Rd is less than 0.4, the yarn constituting the top portion 3 is very thin with respect to the yarn constituting the side wall portions 4 and 5, that is, the fineness of the yarn constituting the top portion 3 is the side wall. Since the fineness of the yarn constituting the portions 4 and 5 is much smaller than the fineness of the yarn constituting the portions 4 and 5, the tension of the yarn constituting the top portion 3 is set to the side wall portion 4 in order to form the dimensionally stable ridge 6.
  • the excellent color effect is exhibited by satisfy
  • the ratios Ra to Rd can be adjusted depending on the total fineness of the yarn.
  • the fineness of the yarn used for the two chain stitch rows 3a and 3b constituting the top portion 3 and the connecting yarn 3c of the top portion 3 is related to the top width L1 and the top thickness L2.
  • the fineness of the yarn used for the chain stitch row 4a constituting the side wall portion 4 and the yarn used for the chain stitch row 5a of the side wall portion 5 are related to the height L3 of the side wall portion.
  • the above four yarns are preferably all yarns having a total fineness of 80 to 500 dtex, and particularly 167 dtex from the viewpoint of the operational stability of the knitting machine during knitting and the dimensional stability of the ridges 6. preferable.
  • the fineness of the yarn used for the connecting portion 2d formed between the protruding portions 6, that is, the yarn used for the chain knitting row 2e and the connecting yarn 2c is related to the interval L4 between the protruding portions 6,
  • the total fineness of the connecting yarn 2c is preferably 50 to 800 dtex, and particularly preferably 100 dtex from the viewpoint of the operational stability of the knitting machine during knitting and the dimensional stability of the ridges 6, and the yarn used for the chain knitting row 2e
  • the total fineness is preferably 100 to 800 dtex, particularly preferably 400 dtex.
  • Example 1-6 and Comparative Example 1-10 the warp knitted fabric shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 was knitted by the above-described knitting method using a double raschel knitting machine, and the obtained warp knitted fabric was described above. It heat-processed with the pin tenter. Further, the knitting yarns used for the chain knitting rows 2a and 2b constituting the base portion 2, the chain knitting rows 3a and 3b and the connecting yarn 3c constituting the top portion 3, and the chain knitting rows 4a and 5a constituting the side wall portions 4 and 5, respectively. Polyester multifilament yarn was used.
  • the chain knitting rows 2a and 4a are set to the first color
  • the chain knitting rows 2b and 5a are set to the second color
  • the chain knitting rows 3a and 3b and the connecting yarn 3c are set to the third color.
  • the side wall 4 and the side wall 5 have different colors.
  • a transparent polyester monofilament is used as the knitting yarn of the chain knitting row 2e constituting the base portion 2
  • a transparent polyester elastomer yarn is used as the connecting yarn 2d constituting the base portion 2 to make the base portion 2 transparent. did.
  • Other conditions in the double raschel knitting machine, the fineness of the yarn, and the set shrinkage of the knitted fabric were as shown in FIGS.
  • line part 6 are the front of the warp knitted fabric 1 surface.
  • the warp knitted fabric 1 is placed on the microscope stage (table) in an unweighted state so that the surface of the warp knitted fabric 1 is on the upper side, and the knitting that constitutes the top portion 3 with respect to the width L1 of the top portion 3.
  • One end of the single yarn was defined as an end, and the length (distance) to one end of the single knitting yarn serving as the end of the other top 3 of the top 3 was measured.
  • line part 6 from one end of the knitting yarn single yarn used as the end of the side wall part 4, one end of the knitting yarn single yarn used as the end of the side wall part 5 The length until was measured by the same method as L1.
  • the thickness L2 of the top portion 3 and the height L3 of the side wall portions 4 and 5 are determined by cutting the knitting yarns 2d and 2e located between the ridge portions 6 and randomly taking out five ridge portions 6 to be measured. No load is applied on the stage of the digital microscope VHX / 2000 made by Hitachi by tilting the surface of the ridge 6 by 90 ° toward the side of the ridge 6 so that the side wall 4 or the side wall 5 is directly above. The sample was placed in a state, photographed at a lens magnification of 50 times using the microscope, the corresponding length was measured for each of the obtained images, and the obtained five measured values were averaged and calculated.
  • the thickness L2 of the top portion 3 is such that the chain knitting row 3a or 3b constituting the top portion 3 has a length in the thickness direction of the top portion 3 so that the length is maximized.
  • the length (distance) to one end of the single knitting yarn was measured.
  • the height L3 of the side wall portions 4 and 5 is such that the chain knitting row 2a constituting the base portion 2 and the chain knitting row 4a constituting the side wall portion 4 or the chain knitting row 2b constituting the base portion 2 and the side wall portion 5 are determined.
  • the knitted fabric of Example 2 has a large interval L4 between the ridges 6, and thus the ridges 6 when the ridges 6 are viewed from obliquely upward (X direction) inclined by 30 ° with respect to the vertical line.
  • the visual recognition ratio of the ridge portion 6 with respect to the interval L4 is smaller than that of the knitted fabric of the first embodiment, and the color effect of the ridge portion 6 is smaller than that of the knitted fabric of the first embodiment.
  • the knitted fabric of Example 3 has a small interval L4 between the ridges 6, so that when the ridges 6 are viewed from obliquely upward (X direction) inclined by 30 ° with respect to the vertical line, the ridges are formed.
  • the interval L4 between the parts 6 is not visually recognized. Therefore, the visual recognition ratio of the ridges 6 to the interval L4 of the ridges 6 is larger than that of the knitted fabric of Example 1, and the color effect of the ridges 6 is higher than that of the knitted fabric of Example 1.
  • the knitted fabric of Example 4 has a small visual recognition ratio Vb, that is, the visual recognition ratio of the top portion 3 is large. Therefore, if the thickness L2 of the top portion 3 is further increased, the color change depending on the viewing angle is not sufficiently exhibited. . Further, the ratio Rd is the upper limit, and if the width L1 of the top part 3 is further increased, the side walls 4 and 5 are covered too much, so that the color effect of the side walls 4 and 5 cannot be sufficiently obtained.
  • the distance L4 between the ridges 6 is the largest, and the thickness (L2 + L3) of the ridges 6 with respect to the distance L4, that is, the ratio Ra is the smallest. Becomes the smallest.
  • the ratio Rb is small, so the visual recognition ratio Vb is also small.
  • the ratio Rc is small, the color effect of the side wall parts 4 and 5 with respect to the top part 3 is higher than that of the knitted fabrics of Examples 3 and 4, and the color changeability depending on the viewing direction is high.
  • the ratio Rd is small and the side wall portions 4 and 5 are not sufficiently covered with the top portion 3, the top portion 3 and the side wall portions 4 and 5 can be visually recognized from directly above.
  • the knitted fabric of Example 6 has a large ratio Ra, the visual recognition ratio of the ridges 6 with respect to the interval L4 of the ridges 6 is large, and the color effect of the ridges 6 is high. Moreover, since ratio Rc is small, the visual recognition rate of the side wall parts 4 and 5 when it sees from diagonally upward of the adjacent direction of the protruding item
  • the visual recognition ratio between the ridges 6 increases, that is, the visual recognition ratio Va is less than 0.75.
  • the color effect of the entire knitted fabric fades.
  • the adjacent ridge part shielding ratio Cr exceeds 4.2. Is shielded by the adjacent ridges 6 and the color effect is reduced.
  • the ridges 6 that are dimensionally stable cannot be created because the ridges 6 are elongated.
  • the yarn at the top 3 is very thin with respect to the yarn at the side walls 4 and 5 (the fineness of the yarn at the top 3 is much smaller than the fineness of the yarn at the side walls 4 and 5). Therefore, the color of the yarn constituting the side wall portions 4 and 5 can be seen from the gap between the yarns constituting the top portion 3, and the color effect is reduced.
  • the visual recognition ratio Vb is less than 0.05 in the knitted fabric of Comparative Example 6, when viewed from an oblique direction, the visual recognition ratio of the color of the top portion 3 is large, and the color effect of the side wall portions 4 and 5 is sufficient. Is not demonstrated.
  • the top part covers the wall part too much, and the visual recognition ratio Vb is less than 0.05. Therefore, the visual recognition ratio of the color of the top part 3 is large, and the side wall parts 4, 5 The color effect of is not fully demonstrated.
  • the yarn at the top 3 is very thin with respect to the yarn at the side walls 4 and 5 (the fineness of the yarn at the top 3 is much smaller than the fineness of the yarn at the side walls 4 and 5).
  • the color of the yarn constituting the side wall portions 4 and 5 is visible from the gap between the yarns constituting the top portion 3, and the color effect is reduced.
  • the knitted fabric of Comparative Example 9 since the interval L4 between the ridges 6 is too narrow, the adjacent ridge shielding ratio Cr exceeds 4.2, and the ridges 6 to be visually recognized are adjacent to each other. Since it is shielded by the strip 6, the color effect is reduced.
  • the warp knitted fabric is used in the above-described embodiment, the present invention is not limited to this, and may be a weft knitted fabric, and is not limited to a knitted fabric. If it has, it may be a woven fabric. The same effect as described above can be obtained by such a woven fabric.
  • an insertion thread may be inserted into each of the ridges 6 so as to connect the adjacent ridges 6 to each other, and an elastic thread can be used as the insertion thread.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un tissu tissé/tricoté (1) qui possède de multiples lignes saillantes (6) formées le long d'une direction, chaque ligne saillante (6) étant conçue à partir d'un haut (3) et de parois latérales (4 et 5) en dessous du haut (3). Parmi le haut (3) et les parois latérales (4 et 5), au moins l'un présente une couleur différente des deux autres. Les lignes saillantes (6) d'au moins certaines des multiples lignes saillantes (6) sont disposées de telle sorte que la distance L4 jusqu'à une ligne saillante adjacente (6) soit de 0,2 à 2,5 mm. Lorsque la largeur du haut (3) est L1, l'épaisseur du haut (3) est L2, les hauteurs des parois latérales (4 and 5) sont L3, et l'espacement entre les surfaces de paroi des parois latérales (4 et 5) est L5, les lignes saillantes (6) sont établies de telle sorte que L1 à L5 satisfassent aux relations suivantes. Rapport Ra = (L2 + L3)/L4 = 0,8 à 7,9 ; Rapport Rb = L1/(L2 + L3) = 0,4 à 1,6 ; Rapport Rc = L2/L3 = 0,2 à 0,9 ; Rapport Rd = L1/L5 = 0,4 à 1,2.
PCT/JP2017/020136 2016-05-31 2017-05-30 Tissu tissé/tricoté WO2017209140A1 (fr)

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CN201780034114.XA CN109415855A (zh) 2016-05-31 2017-05-30 织物布料
JP2018520934A JPWO2017209140A1 (ja) 2016-05-31 2017-05-30 織編地
US16/302,029 US20190309449A1 (en) 2016-05-31 2017-05-30 Woven/knitted fabric
EP17806693.2A EP3453793A4 (fr) 2016-05-31 2017-05-30 Tissu tissé/tricoté

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WO2018123531A1 (fr) * 2016-12-26 2018-07-05 東レ株式会社 Structure de fibres
CN108277574A (zh) * 2018-04-10 2018-07-13 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 一种具有变色功能的提花贾卡面料及其制作方法
CN111519335A (zh) * 2019-02-01 2020-08-11 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 一种变色针织面料
US11566353B2 (en) 2019-04-05 2023-01-31 Nike, Inc. Knit component with differing visual effects

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JP7008302B2 (ja) * 2016-06-10 2022-01-25 デューク ユニバーシティ 紡績繊維および医療用途向けたて編生地およびその製造方法
CN112626699B (zh) * 2020-11-19 2022-05-17 福建省晋江市华宇织造有限公司 一种变色网布
CN113789603B (zh) * 2021-08-14 2023-09-05 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 一种可隐藏杂色的半透挑孔编织面料及其编织方法、应用

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CN108277574A (zh) * 2018-04-10 2018-07-13 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 一种具有变色功能的提花贾卡面料及其制作方法
CN108277574B (zh) * 2018-04-10 2024-01-23 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 一种具有变色功能的提花贾卡面料及其制作方法
CN111519335A (zh) * 2019-02-01 2020-08-11 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 一种变色针织面料
US11566353B2 (en) 2019-04-05 2023-01-31 Nike, Inc. Knit component with differing visual effects

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CN109415855A (zh) 2019-03-01
EP3453793A1 (fr) 2019-03-13

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