EP3385420B1 - Machine de tricotage en chaîne, procédé de fabrication de tissus tricotés en chaîne et tissu tricoté en chaîne - Google Patents

Machine de tricotage en chaîne, procédé de fabrication de tissus tricotés en chaîne et tissu tricoté en chaîne Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3385420B1
EP3385420B1 EP17195477.9A EP17195477A EP3385420B1 EP 3385420 B1 EP3385420 B1 EP 3385420B1 EP 17195477 A EP17195477 A EP 17195477A EP 3385420 B1 EP3385420 B1 EP 3385420B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
jacquard
base fabric
side base
texture
yarns
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP17195477.9A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP3385420A1 (fr
Inventor
Hirokazu Takayama
Minoru Ota
Kazuhiro OSAWA
Sachiko KOIDE
Isao Takaoka
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Nippon Mayer Co Ltd
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Nippon Mayer Co Ltd
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Publication date
Application filed by Nippon Mayer Co Ltd filed Critical Nippon Mayer Co Ltd
Priority to PL17195477T priority Critical patent/PL3385420T3/pl
Publication of EP3385420A1 publication Critical patent/EP3385420A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3385420B1 publication Critical patent/EP3385420B1/fr
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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B27/00Details of, or auxiliary devices incorporated in, warp knitting machines, restricted to machines of this kind
    • D04B27/10Devices for supplying, feeding, or guiding threads to needles
    • D04B27/24Thread guide bar assemblies
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/06Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B21/08Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B27/00Details of, or auxiliary devices incorporated in, warp knitting machines, restricted to machines of this kind
    • D04B27/10Devices for supplying, feeding, or guiding threads to needles
    • D04B27/24Thread guide bar assemblies
    • D04B27/32Thread guide bar assemblies with independently-movable thread guides controlled by Jacquard mechanisms
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B1/00Footwear characterised by the material
    • A43B1/02Footwear characterised by the material made of fibres or fabrics made therefrom
    • A43B1/04Footwear characterised by the material made of fibres or fabrics made therefrom braided, knotted, knitted or crocheted
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/04Uppers made of one piece; Uppers with inserted gussets
    • A43B23/042Uppers made of one piece
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/06Patterned fabrics or articles
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/20Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting articles of particular configuration
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B23/00Flat warp knitting machines
    • D04B23/02Flat warp knitting machines with two sets of needles
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/02Cross-sectional features
    • D10B2403/022Lofty fabric with variably spaced front and back plies, e.g. spacer fabrics
    • D10B2403/0223Lofty fabric with variably spaced front and back plies, e.g. spacer fabrics with apertures, e.g. with one or more mesh fabric plies
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/02Cross-sectional features
    • D10B2403/023Fabric with at least two, predominantly unlinked, knitted or woven plies interlaced with each other at spaced locations or linked to a common internal co-extensive yarn system
    • D10B2403/0231Fabric with at least two, predominantly unlinked, knitted or woven plies interlaced with each other at spaced locations or linked to a common internal co-extensive yarn system including contracting yarn, e.g. blister fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/04Outerwear; Protective garments
    • D10B2501/043Footwear

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a warp knitting machine, a method of manufacturing a warp knitted fabric and the warp knitted fabric.
  • a double raschel machine provided with two front and back rows of knitting needles, in which a front-side base fabric and a back-side base fabric are knitted by the front-side row of knitting needles and the back-side row of knitting needles, respectively, and the front-side base fabric and the back-side base fabric are joined on at least a part of the warp knitted fabric.
  • the conventionally known double raschel machine including two jacquard bars includes a pair of jacquard bars at the front side, a pair of jacquard bars at the back side, at least one guide bar in front of the pair of front-side jacquard bars, and at least one guide bar in back of the pair of back-side jacquard bars.
  • a quilting has conventionally been known as a cloth having irregularities.
  • a front cloth and a back cloth are individually manufactured, and a core material is interposed between the front cloth and the back cloth, and finally sewed.
  • Such a method is complicate.
  • the manufacturing method becomes further complicated.
  • the present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and an object thereof is to provide a warp knitting machine capable of forming irregularities conforming to a pattern in a warp knitted fabric, a method of manufacturing the warp knitted fabric having irregularities conforming to the pattern, the warp knitted fabric having irregularities conforming to the pattern, and a shoe upper having irregularities conforming to the pattern.
  • claim 1 there is provided a double raschel warp knitting machine.
  • a shoe upper that includes the warp knitted fabric.
  • insertion yarns are inserted between the front-side base fabric and the back-side base fabric, and the insertion yarns are pressed at a position where the front-side base fabric is joined to the back-side base fabric by jacquard yarns, thereby forming irregularities conforming to a pattern in the warp knitted fabric.
  • the warp knitting machine is a so-called double raschel machine including a front-side row of knitting needles FN and a back-side row of knitting needles BN, in which a front-side base fabric 1 is knitted by the front-side row of knitting needles FN, and a back-side base fabric 2 is knitted by the back-side row of knitting needles BN, and further, the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2 are joined at a position of at least a part of the base fabrics.
  • Each of the front-side row of knitting needles FN and the back-side row of knitting needles BN includes a plurality of knitting needles aligned in the width direction of the double raschel machine.
  • a gauge is, for example, 24E (24 knitting needles per inch).
  • the double raschel machine of the first embodiment is a so-called double jacquard double raschel machine including a front-side pair of jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 (hereinafter, “front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4"), and a back-side pair of jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 (hereinafter, “back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7").
  • front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 hereinafter, "front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4"
  • back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 back jacquard bars
  • Each of these jacquard guides not only performs the basic movement to knit the basic texture, but also may be displaced independently by the action of the jacquard mechanism. Therefore, the plurality of jacquard guides may perform different movements.
  • the jacquard guide is displaced by a distance of 1G (a distance between two adjacent knitting needles) from a position where the basic texture is being knitted.
  • the direction of displacement in jacquard guides of the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 is leftward and the direction of displacement in jacquard guides of the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 is rightward.
  • the jacquard mechanism may be allowed to act at the time of either or both overlapping and underlapping.
  • the double raschel machine of the first embodiment includes at least one guide bar in front of the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4, and at least one guide bar in back of the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7.
  • FIG. 1 as a guide bar in front of the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4, two guide bars GB1 and GB2 are provided, and as a guide bar in back of the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7, two guide bars GB8 and GB9 are provided.
  • a guide bar in back of the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 two guide bars GB8 and GB9 are provided.
  • the knitting of a warp knitted fabric 10 at least any one of the front-side two guide bars GB1 and GB2 may be used, and it is not necessary to use the two guide bars.
  • at least any one of the back-side two guide bars GB8 and GB9 may be used, and it is not necessary to use the two guide bars.
  • the double raschel machine of the first embodiment includes at least one guide bar between the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4, and the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7.
  • one guide bar GB5 is provided as such a guide bar.
  • Each of the guide bars GB1, GB2, GB5, GB8, and GB9 performs a basic movement to knit a knit texture. Unlike the jacquard guides, the plurality of guides provided in each of the guide bars GB1, GB2, GB5, GB8, and GB9 are not capable of performing different movements from other guides provided in the same guide bar.
  • each guide is arranged at a position corresponding to each knitting needle.
  • each of the jacquard bars JB3, JB4, JB6, and JB7 is a half-gauge jacquard bar. Then, when two jacquard bars are paired, one pair has a full-gauge as a whole. That is, in each of the jacquard bars JB3, JB4, JB6, and JB7, the number of jacquard guides per inch is the half of the number of knitting needles per inch, and one jacquard guide is arranged for every two knitting needles. Here, between the pair of two jacquard bars, the position of a jacquard guide is shifted by one knitting needle. Then, as the two jacquard bars are paired, jacquard guides corresponding to the number of knitting needles are provided, and each guide is arranged at a position corresponding to each knitting needle.
  • jacquard guides corresponding to the number of knitting needles are provided, and are arranged at positions corresponding to the knitting needles, respectively.
  • jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 are paired, jacquard guides corresponding to the number of knitting needles are provided, and are arranged at positions corresponding to the knitting needles, respectively.
  • the guide bar GB1 to the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 may overlap the front-side row of knitting needles FN
  • the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 to the guide bar GB9 may overlap the back-side row of knitting needles BN.
  • the warp knitting machine of the first embodiment has the same structure as the conventionally known double raschel machine.
  • the front-side base fabric 1 is knitted by at least one of the guide bars GB1 and GB2 in front of the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4.
  • the back-side base fabric 2 is knitted by at least one of the guide bars GB8 and GB9 in back of the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7.
  • jacquard yarns fed from the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 (hereinafter, referred to as "front jacquard yarns") and jacquard yarns fed from the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 (hereinafter, referred to as "back jacquard yarns") are knitted into the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2.
  • front jacquard yarns and jacquard yarns fed from the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7
  • back jacquard yarns are knitted into the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2.
  • the jacquard yarns knitted into the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2 appear on the surface of these base fabrics to form a jacquard pattern.
  • the jacquard pattern refers to a pattern formed by jacquard yarns appearing on the surface of the warp knitted fabric 10.
  • the front jacquard yarns and the back jacquard yarns join the front-side base fabric 1 to the back-side base fabric 2 on at least a part of the warp knitted fabric 10.
  • the joining position of the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2 and a position (a non-joining position) excluding the joining position are formed by the jacquard yarns, and thus correspond to constituent elements of the jacquard pattern appearing on the surface of the warp knitted fabric 10, respectively.
  • the back jacquard yarns appear on the surface of the front-side base fabric 1, and becomes a constituent element of the jacquard pattern on the front-side surface of the warp knitted fabric 10.
  • Each of the joining position and the non-joining position may extend over a plurality of courses and a plurality of wales.
  • the guide bar GB5 between the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 and the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 inserts insertion yarns between the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2.
  • the insertion yarns inserted by the guide bar GB5 are compressed by being pressed from the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2 at the joining position of the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2.
  • the insertion yarns inserted by the guide bar GB5 are not pressed from the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2, and then are not compressed.
  • the portion composed of the non-joining position bulges as compared to the portion composed of the joining position.
  • the portion composed of the joining position becomes a concave portion, and the portion composed of the non-joining position bulges to become a convex portion. Since the joining position and the non-joining position are related to the jacquard pattern appearing on the surface of the warp knitted fabric 10, irregularities conforming to the jacquard pattern are formed on the warp knitted fabric 10.
  • a chain stitch texture is formed on the front-side base fabric 1 by the front-side guide bar GB1 or GB2, and a chain stitch texture is formed on the back-side base fabric 2 by the back-side guide bar GB8 or GB9.
  • jacquard mechanisms act, in each of the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2, a position where adjacent wales of the chain stitch texture are joined by the front jacquard yarns and the back jacquard yarns, and a position where the adjacent wales are not joined are formed.
  • the warp knitted fabric 10 is used for, for example, a shoe upper.
  • FIG. 2 A knit texture view of the knitting example is illustrated in FIG. 2 .
  • F indicates a course knitted by the front-side row of knitting needles FN
  • B indicates a course knitted by the back-side row of knitting needles BN.
  • the guide bars GB2, GB5, GB8, and GB9, and the jacquard bars JB3, JB4, JB6, and JB7 are used for the knitting.
  • yarns are fed to form a full set. That is, in each of the guide bars GB2, GB5, GB8, and GB9, yarns are fed to all guides. Accordingly, yarns corresponding to the number of knitting needles included in one row of knitting needles are fed to each of the guide bars GB2, GB5, GB8, and GB9.
  • yarns are fed to form full sets, respectively. That is, in each of the jacquard bars JB3, JB4, JB6, and JB7, yarns are fed to all jacquard guides. Accordingly, yarns corresponding to the number of knitting needles included in one row of knitting needles are fed to the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 as a whole. Yarns corresponding to the number of knitting needles included in one row of knitting needles are fed to the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 as a whole.
  • the knit texture of the guide bar GB2 is a chain stitch texture in which stitches are formed in the same wale, and is composed of repetition units of 0-1/1-1/1-0/0-0//.
  • odd-numbered items (0-1 and 1-0 in the above example) indicate the action on the knitting needles of the front-side row of knitting needles FN
  • even-numbered items (1-1 and 0-0 in the above example) indicate the action on the knitting needles of the back-side row of knitting needles BN.
  • the knit texture of the guide bar GB5 as illustrated in (c) of FIG. 2 is an insertion texture and is composed of repetition units of 0-0/1-1/1-1/0-0//.
  • the knit texture of the guide bar GB8 as illustrated in (e) of FIG. 2 is a chain stitch texture, and is composed of repetition units of 1-1/1-0/0-0/0-1//.
  • the knit texture of the guide bar GB9 as illustrated in (f) of FIG. 2 is an insertion texture and is composed of repetition units of 1-1/0-0/0-0/1-1//.
  • the insertion yarns inserted by the guide bar GB5 serve a role of swelling the warp knitted fabric 10 as described below.
  • the insertion yarns inserted by the guide bar GB9 serve a role of reinforcing the warp knitted fabric 10.
  • FIG. 2 also illustrates basic textures formed by the jacquard bars JB3, JB4, JB6, and JB7, that is, knit textures formed by the jacquard bars JB3, JB4, JB6, and JB7 when the jacquard mechanism does not work.
  • the basic texture formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 as illustrated in (b) of FIG. 2 is composed of repetition units of 1-0/1-2/1-2/1-0//.
  • the basic texture formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 as illustrated in (d) of FIG. 2 is composed of repetition units of 1-0/1-2/1-2/1-0//.
  • FIG. 3 the above described basic texture formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 is indicated by a broken line, and an example of a knit texture formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 is indicated by a solid line when the jacquard mechanism acts.
  • "H” in the drawing indicates that the jacquard mechanism is not caused to act.
  • a jacquard guide is placed at the same position as that when the basic texture is knitted.
  • "T” in the drawing indicates that the jacquard mechanism is caused to act.
  • the jacquard guide is displaced from a position where the basic texture is knitted.
  • "T" and “H” are described at upper and lower ends of one needle position. Meanwhile, “T” or “H” at the upper end indicates that the jacquard mechanism is allowed or not allowed to act at the time of overlapping, and “T” or “H” at the lower end indicates that the jacquard mechanism is allowed or not allowed to act at the time of underlapping.
  • FIG. 3 an example of a knit texture is illustrated in which the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 overlap the front-side row of knitting needles FN due to the action of the jacquard mechanism.
  • the knit texture in (a) of FIG. 3 is one called a thick cloth texture, and is composed of repetition units of 1-0/2-2/2-3/1-1//.
  • the knit texture in (b) of FIG. 3 is one called a thin cloth texture, and is composed of repetition units of 1-0/2-2/1-2/1-1//.
  • the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 overlap the front-side row of knitting needles FN so that the front-side base fabric 1 is formed by the front jacquard yarns and yarns fed from and the guide bar GB2.
  • the front jacquard yarns appear on the surface of the front-side base fabric 1 (the front-side surface of the warp knitted fabric 10) .
  • the front jacquard yarns reciprocate between three needles in the wale direction (weft direction) in one repetition unit while forming a needle loop when the thick cloth texture in (a) of FIG. 3 is knitted, and reciprocate between two needles in the wale direction in one repetition unit while forming a needle loop when the thin cloth texture in (b) of FIG. 3 is knitted. Therefore, the front jacquard yarns join different wales of the chain stitch texture formed by the yarns fed from the guide bar GB2.
  • the thick cloth texture in (a) of FIG. 3 is larger in racking width in the wale direction (weft direction) than the thin cloth texture in (b) of FIG. 3 , and thus thickens the front-side base fabric 1 by the larger width.
  • FIG. 3 an example of a knit texture is illustrated in which the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 wrap within the same wale due to the action of the jacquard mechanism.
  • the knit texture in (c) of FIG. 3 is one called a hole texture, and is composed of repetition units of 1-0/0-1/0-1/0-0//.
  • the front jacquard yarns do not join adjacent wales of the chain stitch texture formed by the yarns fed from the guide bars GB2 and GB8 when the hole texture in (c) of FIG. 3 is knitted.
  • the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 overlap the front-side row of knitting needles FN and the back-side row of knitting needles BN, and the front jacquard yarns are knitted into the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2. Therefore, the front-side base fabric 1 is joined to the back-side base fabric 2.
  • FIG. 3 an example of a knit texture is illustrated in which the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 overlap the back-side row of knitting needles BN due to the action of the jacquard mechanism.
  • the knit texture in (d) of FIG. 3 is composed of repetition units of 1-1/2-3/2-2/1-0//.
  • the knit texture in (e) of FIG. 3 is composed of repetition units of 1-1/1-2/2-2/1-0//.
  • the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 overlap the back-side row of knitting needles BN so that the front jacquard yarns are knitted into the back-side base fabric 2.
  • the front jacquard yarns appear on the surface of the back-side base fabric 2 (the back-side surface of the warp knitted fabric 10).
  • the front jacquard yarns reciprocate between three needles in the wale direction in one repetition unit while forming a needle loop when the knit texture in (d) of FIG. 3 is knitted, and reciprocate between two needles in the wale direction in one repetition unit while forming a needle loop when the knit texture in (e) of FIG. 3 is knitted. Therefore, the front jacquard yarns join different wales of the chain stitch texture formed by the yarns fed from the guide bar GB8.
  • the knit texture in (d) of FIG. 3 is larger in racking width in the wale direction (weft direction) than the knit texture in (e) of FIG. 3 , and thus thickens the back-side base fabric 2 by the larger width.
  • the above described basic texture formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 is indicated by a broken line, and an example of a knit texture formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 is indicated by a solid line when the jacquard mechanism acts.
  • FIG. 4 an example of a knit texture is illustrated in which the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 overlap the back-side row of knitting needles BN due to the action of the jacquard mechanism.
  • the knit texture in (a) of FIG. 4 is one called a thick cloth texture, and is composed of repetition units of 1-1/2-3/2-2/1-0//.
  • the knit texture in (b) of FIG. 4 is one called a thin cloth texture, and is composed of repetition units of 0-0/1-2/1-1/1-0//.
  • the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 overlap the back-side row of knitting needles BN so that the back-side base fabric 2 is formed by the back jacquard yarns and yarns fed from the guide bars GB8 and GB9.
  • the back jacquard yarns appear on the surface of the back-side base fabric 2 (the back-side surface of the warp knitted fabric 10) .
  • the back jacquard yarns reciprocate between three needles in the wale direction in one repetition unit while forming a needle loop when the thick cloth texture in (a) of FIG. 4 is knitted, and reciprocate between two needles in the wale direction in one repetition unit while forming a needle loop when the thin cloth texture in (b) of FIG. 4 is knitted. Therefore, the jacquard yarns fed from the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 join different wales of the chain stitch texture formed by the yarns fed from the guide bar GB8.
  • the thick cloth texture in (a) of FIG. 4 is larger in racking width in the wale direction (weft direction) than the thin cloth texture in (b) of FIG. 4 , and thus thickens the back-side base fabric 2 by the larger width.
  • (c) of FIG. 4 an example of a knit texture is illustrated in which the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 wrap within the same wale due to the action of the jacquard mechanism.
  • the knit texture in (c) of FIG. 4 is one called a hole texture, and is composed of repetition units of 1-0/0-1/1-1/1-0//.
  • the back jacquard yarns do not join adjacent wales of the chain stitch texture formed by the yarns fed from the guide bars GB2 and GB8 when the hole texture in (c) of FIG. 4 is knitted.
  • the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 overlap the front-side row of knitting needles FN and the back-side row of knitting needles BN, and the back jacquard yarns are knitted into the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2. Therefore, the front-side base fabric 1 is joined to the back-side base fabric 2.
  • FIG. 4 an example of a knit texture is illustrated in which the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 overlap the front-side row of knitting needles FN due to the action of the jacquard mechanism.
  • the knit texture in (d) of FIG. 4 is composed of repetition units of 1-0/2-2/2-3/1-1//.
  • the knit texture in (e) of FIG. 4 is composed of repetition units of 1-0/1-1/1-2/0-0//.
  • the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 overlap the front-side row of knitting needles FN so that the back jacquard yarns are knitted into the front-side base fabric 1.
  • the back jacquard yarns appear on the surface of the front-side base fabric 1 (the front-side surface of the warp knitted fabric 10).
  • the back jacquard yarns reciprocate between three needles in the wale direction in one repetition unit while forming a needle loop when the knit texture in (d) of FIG. 4 is knitted, and reciprocate between two needles in the wale direction in one repetition unit while forming a needle loop when the knit texture in (e) of FIG. 4 is knitted. Therefore, the back jacquard yarns join different wales of the chain stitch texture formed by the yarns fed from the guide bar GB2.
  • the knit texture in (d) of FIG. 4 is larger in racking width in the wale direction (weft direction) than the knit texture in (e) of FIG. 4 , and thus thickens the front-side base fabric 1 by the larger width.
  • one of knit textures in (a) to (e) of FIG. 3 is selected as a knit texture formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 at each knitting position.
  • one of knit textures in (a) to (e) of FIG. 4 is selected as a knit texture formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 at each knitting position. In this manner, at each knitting position, a combination of the knit texture formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 and the knit texture formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 is realized.
  • a hole may be formed in the warp knitted fabric 10, or a specific yarn may be caused to appear on the front-side or back-side surface of the warp knitted fabric 10. Then, by changing a combination for each knitting position, a jacquard pattern may be formed on the front-side or back-side surface of the warp knitted fabric 10. Irregularities matching the jacquard pattern may be formed.
  • the knit texture in the case of overlapping with respect to the front-side row of knitting needles FN as illustrated in (a) or (b) of FIG. 3 is selected, and as a knit texture formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 at the same position, the knit texture in the case of overlapping with respect to the back-side row of knitting needles BN as illustrated in (a) or (b) of FIG. 4 is selected.
  • the front jacquard yarns appear on the front-side surface of the warp knitted fabric 10
  • the back jacquard yarns appear on the back-side surface.
  • the front-side base fabric 1 is not joined to the back-side base fabric 2.
  • the knit texture in the case of overlapping with respect to the back-side row of knitting needles BN as illustrated in (d) or (e) of FIG. 3 is selected, and as a knit texture formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 at the same position, the knit texture in the case of overlapping with respect to the front-side row of knitting needles FN as illustrated in (d) or (e) of FIG. 4 is selected.
  • the back jacquard yarns mainly appear on the front-side surface of the warp knitted fabric 10
  • the front jacquard yarns mainly appear on the back-side surface.
  • the different types of yarns refer to yarns different in at least any one of color, glossiness, ease of dyeing, feel and the like.
  • the insertion yarns inserted by the guide bar GB5 are inserted between the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2. Then, at the above described joining position where the front-side base fabric 1 is joined to the back-side base fabric 2, the insertion yarns inserted by the guide bar GB5 are compressed by being pressed from the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2. Thus, at the portion composed of the above described joining position of the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2, the warp knitted fabric 10 does not bulge toward the front side or the back side.
  • the insertion yarns inserted by the guide bar GB5 are not pressed from the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2 and then are not compressed.
  • the warp knitted fabric 10 bulges toward at least one of the front side and the back side.
  • FIG. 5 illustrates a state where the irregularities are formed on the warp knitted fabric 10.
  • a joining position 5 where the front-side base fabric 1 is joined to the back-side base fabric 2 by jacquard yarns 3
  • insertion yarns (not illustrated) inserted by the guide bar GB5 are compressed by being pressed from the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2.
  • a non-joining position 6 where the front-side base fabric 1 is not joined to the back-side base fabric 2 by the jacquard yarns 3, insertion yarns 4 are not compressed, and the warp knitted fabric 10 bulges. In this manner, the bulging position and the non-bulging position are formed, thereby forming irregularities on the warp knitted fabric 10.
  • the warp knitted fabric 10 bulges more largely at the base fabric side with the longer sinker loops.
  • the thick cloth texture in (a) of FIG. 3 in which stitches are formed on the front-side base fabric 1, and yarns reciprocate between three needles in the wale direction is selected.
  • the thin cloth texture in (b) of FIG. 4 in which stitches are formed on the back-side base fabric 2, and yarns reciprocate between two needles in the wale direction is selected.
  • the hole texture in (c) of FIG. 3 is selected, and as a knit texture formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 at the same position, the hole texture in (c) of FIG. 4 is selected. Accordingly, the non-joining position in the front-side base fabric 1, where adjacent wales are not joined, coincides with the non-joining position in the back-side base fabric 2, where adjacent wales are not joined, in the front-back direction, and a hole is formed at the corresponding position in the warp knitted fabric 10.
  • the hole texture in (c) of FIG. 3 and the hole texture in (c) of FIG. 4 join the front-side base fabric 1 to the back-side base fabric 2 as described above, and thus the front-side base fabric 1 is joined to the back-side base fabric 2 at the opening end of the hole.
  • the material or thickness (fineness) of a yarn used in the first embodiment is not limited.
  • various yarns such as a filament yarn or a spun yarn may be employed.
  • natural fibers made of silk or cotton, synthetic fibers made of polyester or nylon, or the like may be employed.
  • the bulging amount of the warp knitted fabric 10 is changed.
  • the insertion yarn to be fed to the guide bar GB5 may be thicker than other yarns, and further, its constant length system yarn count (dtex) may be three times or more the jacquard yarn.
  • a polyester yarn of 100 dtex or less is fed to the guide bars GB2 and GB8, a polyester yarn ranging from 100 dtex to 200 dtex is fed to the guide bar GB9, a polyester yarn ranging from 100 dtex to 200 dtex is fed to the jacquard bars JB3, JB4, JB6, and JB7, and a polyester yarn ranging from 500 dtex to 700 dtex is fed to the guide bar GB5.
  • the front-side surface of the warp knitted fabric 10 knitted in the knitting example 1 is illustrated in FIG. 6 .
  • the warp knitted fabric 10 is formed by integrally knitting an upper part 11 and a peripheral part 12 thereof used for a shoe upper.
  • the upper part 11 includes a pattern composed of a toe portion 20, a front portion 21, an instep portion 22, a side portion 23, a top portion 24, a rear portion 25, and a heel portion 26.
  • the knit textures in FIG. 2 are formed by the guide bars GB2, GB5, GB8, and GB9.
  • the knit textures to be described below are formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 and the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7.
  • the thick cloth texture in (a) of FIG. 3 is formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4, and the thin cloth texture in (b) of FIG. 4 is formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7. Therefore, the front-side surface of the toe portion 20 has an orange color which is a color of the yarns fed from the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4. Since the front-side base fabric 1 is not joined to the back-side base fabric 2, the toe portion 20 bulges to become a convex portion.
  • the knit texture in (d) of FIG. 3 is formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4, and the knit texture in (d) of FIG. 4 is formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7. Therefore, the front-side surface of the front portion 21 and the instep portion 22 has a white color which is a color of the yarns fed from the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7.
  • the hole texture in (c) of FIG. 3 is formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4, and the hole texture in (c) of FIG. 4 is formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7. Accordingly, a plurality of holes 30 are formed. These holes 30 become vent holes for shoes.
  • the hole texture in (c) of FIG. 3 since the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 also overlap the front-side row of knitting needles FN, an orange-color yarn is also seen at the opening end of the hole 30 on the front-side surface of the front portion 21 and the instep portion 22.
  • the insertion yarns inserted by the guide bar GB5 are compressed by being pressed from the front side and the back side.
  • the front portion 21 and the instep portion 22 do not bulge.
  • a portion composed of the knit textures in (d) of FIG. 3 and (d) of FIG. 4 and a portion composed of knit textures in (e) of FIG. 3 and (e) of FIG. 4 are arranged to form a checkered pattern.
  • the front-side surface of the top portion 24 has a white color which is a color of yarns fed from the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7.
  • a slightly orange-colored yarn is also seen from the front-side surface. This is because the knit textures in (e) of FIG. 3 and (e) of FIG. 4 form a relatively thin cloth, and also the orange color is an outstanding color.
  • the front-side base fabric 1 is joined to the back-side base fabric 2, in the top portion 24 formed by these knit textures, the insertion yarns inserted by the guide bar GB5 are compressed by being pressed. Thus, the top portion 24 does not bulge.
  • the hole texture in (c) of FIG. 3 is formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4, and the hole texture in (c) of FIG. 4 is formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7. Accordingly, holes 31 are formed at a plurality of predetermined positions of the top portion 24. These holes 31 become holes through which a shoelace passes. As in the hole 30 as described above, an orange-color yarn is seen at the opening end of the hole 31 at the front-side of the top portion 24.
  • first linear portions 36 composed of the knit textures in (d) of FIG. 3 and (d) of FIG. 4 , and second linear portions 37 composed of the knit textures in (a) of FIG. 3 and (a) of FIG. 4 form oblique straight lines, respectively, and are alternately arranged.
  • first linear portions 36 composed of the knit textures in (d) of FIG. 3 and (d) of FIG. 4 and the second linear portions 37 composed of the knit textures in (a) of FIG. 3 and (a) of FIG. 4 , colors are reversed, and thus a striped pattern of an orange color and a white color is formed on the side portion 23.
  • the first linear portions 36 composed of the knit textures in (d) of FIG. 3 and (d) of FIG. 4 are white
  • the second linear portions 37 composed of the knit textures in (a) of FIG. 3 and (a) of FIG. 4 are orange-colored.
  • the thick cloth texture in (a) of FIG. 3 is formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4, and the thin cloth texture in (b) of FIG. 4 is formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7. Therefore, the front-side surface of the rear portion 25 has an orange color which is a color of the yarns fed from the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4. Since the front-side base fabric 1 is not joined to the back-side base fabric 2, the rear portion 25 bulges to become a convex portion.
  • the hole texture in (c) of FIG. 3 is formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4, and the hole texture in (c) of FIG. 4 is formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7. Accordingly, holes 32 are formed at a plurality of predetermined positions in the rear portion 25.
  • the front-side base fabric 1 is joined to the back-side base fabric 2 at the opening end of the hole 32. These holes 32 become vent holes for shoes.
  • the knit texture in (d) of FIG. 3 is formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4, and the knit texture in (d) of FIG. 4 is formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7.
  • the front-side surface has a white color which is a color of the yarns fed from the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7.
  • quadrangular portions 35 composed of the knit textures in (a) of FIG. 3 and (b) of FIG. 4 are periodically arranged.
  • the front-side surface has an orange color which is a color of yarns fed from the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4. Accordingly, on the front-side surface of the heel portion 26, a jacquard pattern is formed in which the orange-colored quadrangular portions 35 are periodically arranged on a white background.
  • the front-side base fabric 1 is joined to the back-side base fabric 2, and in the quadrangular portions 35 composed of the knit textures in (a) of FIG. 3 and (b) of FIG. 4 , the front-side base fabric 1 is not joined to the back-side base fabric 2.
  • the orange-colored quadrangular portions 35 composed of the knit textures in (a) of FIG. 3 and (b) of FIG. 4 bulge with respect to surroundings thereof.
  • the same knit texture as that of, for example, the toe portion 20 is employed. Accordingly, on the front-side surface of the warp knitted fabric 10, the boundary portion between the above portions becomes a clear bulging boundary line in an orange color.
  • the toe portion 20 on the front-side surface of the warp knitted fabric 10, the toe portion 20, the second linear portions 37 of the side portion 23, the rear portion 25, the quadrangular portions 35 of the heel portion 26, and the boundary portions between the respective portions become bulging convex portions in an orange color, and the front portion 21, the instep portion 22, the top portion 24, the first linear portions 36 of the side portion 23, and the portions other than the quadrangular portions 35 in the heel portion 26 become non-bulging concave portions in white.
  • a jacquard pattern and irregularities conforming to the jacquard pattern are formed on the front-side surface of the warp knitted fabric 10.
  • a jacquard pattern is formed on the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2 of the warp knitted fabric 10, and further irregularities conforming to the jacquard pattern are formed.
  • a portion composed of the knit textures in (d) of FIG. 3 and (d) of FIG. 4 , and a portion composed of the knit textures in (b) of FIG. 3 and (b) of FIG. 4 are alternately formed in every predetermined course. Accordingly, the front-side base fabric 1 is joined to the back-side base fabric 2.
  • the warp knitted fabric 10 is heated by a method such as boiling in order to obtain a volume of a convex portion.
  • the heating is performed, for example, at 95°C to 100°C for 20 min to 30 min.
  • a finishing processing such as heat-setting is performed on the warp knitted fabric 10 after the knitting.
  • the height of a convex portion (the height from the bottom portion of a concave portion surface to a convex portion vertex) may be 1 mm or more, and further may be 2 mm or more.
  • the guide bar GB5 is provided between the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 and the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7. Therefore, insertion yarns may be inserted between the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2.
  • the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 and the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 form a jacquard pattern on the surface of the front-side base fabric 1 (that is, the front-side surface of the warp knitted fabric 10) and the surface of the back-side base fabric 2 (that is, the back-side surface of the warp knitted fabric 10) using jacquard yarns, while joining the front-side base fabric 1 to the back-side base fabric 2.
  • the warp knitted fabric 10 does not bulge at the joining position of the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2, but bulges at the non-joining position. In this manner, irregularities matching the pattern are formed on the warp knitted fabric 10.
  • the warp knitted fabric 10 manufactured as described above and a shoe upper including the warp knitted fabric 10 may be easily manufactured, and are excellent in a design property because irregularities are formed according to a pattern.
  • the knit texture of the guide bar GB2 is a chain stitch texture in which stitches are formed in the same wale, and is composed of repetition units of 0-1/1-1/1-0/0-0//.
  • the knit texture of the guide bar GB5 as illustrated in (c) of FIG. 7 is an insertion texture, and is composed of repetition units of 0-0/1-1/1-1/1-1/1-1/0-0/0-0/0-0//.
  • the knit texture of the guide bar GB8 as illustrated in (e) of FIG. 7 is a chain stitch texture and is composed of repetition units of 1-1/1-0/0-0/0-1//.
  • the knit texture of the guide bar GB9 as illustrated in (f) of FIG. 7 is an insertion texture, and is composed of repetition units of 1-1/0-0/0-0/1-1//.
  • the insertion yarns inserted by the guide bar GB5 serve a role of swelling the warp knitted fabric as described below.
  • the insertion yarns inserted by the guide bar GB9 serve a role of reinforcing the warp knitted fabric.
  • FIG. 8 the above described basic texture formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 is indicated by a broken line, and an example of a knit texture formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 is indicated by a solid line when the jacquard mechanism acts.
  • FIG. 8 an example of a knit texture is illustrated in which the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 overlap the front-side row of knitting needles FN due to the action of the jacquard mechanism.
  • the knit texture in (a) of FIG. 8 is one called a front thick cloth texture, and is composed of repetition units of 1-0/1-1/2-3/1-1//.
  • the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 overlap the front-side row of knitting needles FN so that the front-side base fabric 1 is formed by the front jacquard yarns and yarns fed from the guide bar GB2.
  • the front jacquard yarns appear on the surface (the front-side surface) of the front-side base fabric 1.
  • the front jacquard yarns reciprocate between three needles in the wale direction in one repetition unit while forming a needle loop. Therefore, the front jacquard yarns join different wales of the chain stitch texture formed by the yarns fed from the guide bar GB2.
  • the front jacquard yarns reciprocate between three needles in the wale direction in one repetition unit while forming a needle loop. Therefore, the front jacquard yarns join different wales in the chain stitch texture formed by the yarns fed from the guide bar GB2 and the chain stitch texture formed by the yarns fed from the guide bar GB8.
  • FIG. 8 an example of a knit texture is illustrated in which the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 overlap the back-side row of knitting needles BN due to the action of the jacquard mechanism.
  • the knit texture in (c) of FIG. 8 is one called a back thin cloth texture, and is composed of repetition units of 1-1/1-2/2-2/1-0//.
  • the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 overlap the back-side row of knitting needles BN so that the front jacquard yarns are knitted into the back-side base fabric 2.
  • the front jacquard yarns appear on the surface (the back-side surface) of the back-side base fabric 2.
  • the front jacquard yarns reciprocate between two needles in the wale direction in one repetition unit while forming a needle loop. Therefore, the front jacquard yarns join different wales of the chain stitch texture formed by the yarns fed from the guide bar GB8.
  • FIG. 8 an example of a knit texture is illustrated in which the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 wrap only within the same wale due to the action of the jacquard mechanism.
  • the knit texture in (d) of FIG. 8 is one called a hole texture, and is composed of repetition units of 1-0/0-1/0-1/0-0//.
  • the front jacquard yarns do not join adjacent wales of the chain stitch texture formed by the yarns fed from the guide bars GB2 and GB8.
  • the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 overlap the front-side row of knitting needles FN and the back-side row of knitting needles BN, and the front jacquard yarns are knitted into the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2.
  • the front-side base fabric 1 is joined to the back-side base fabric 2.
  • FIG. 8 an example of a knit texture is illustrated in which the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 wraps only within the same wale due to the action of the jacquard mechanism.
  • the knit texture in (e) of FIG. 8 is one called a hole texture, and is composed of repetition units of 1-0/0-0/0-1/0-0//.
  • the front jacquard yarns do not join adjacent wales of the chain stitch texture formed by the yarns fed from the guide bars GB2 and GB8.
  • the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 overlap only the front-side row of knitting needles FN, and thus the front jacquard yarns do not join the front-side base fabric 1 to the back-side base fabric 2.
  • the above described basic texture formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 is indicated by a broken line, and an example of a knit texture formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 is indicated by a solid line when the jacquard mechanism acts.
  • FIG. 9 an example of a knit texture is illustrated in which the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 overlap the back-side row of knitting needles BN due to the action of the jacquard mechanism.
  • the knit texture in (a) of FIG. 9 is one called a back thick cloth texture, and is composed of repetition units of 2-2/2-3/2-2/1-0//.
  • the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 overlap the back-side row of knitting needles BN so that the back-side base fabric 2 is formed by the back jacquard yarns and the yarns fed from the guide bar GB8 and GB9.
  • the back jacquard yarns appear on the surface (the back-side surface) of the back-side base fabric 2.
  • the back jacquard yarns reciprocate between three needles in the wale direction in one repetition unit while forming a needle loop. Therefore, the back jacquard yarns join different wales of the chain stitch texture formed by the yarns fed from the guide bar GB8.
  • FIG. 9 an example of a knit texture is illustrated in which the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 overlap both the front-side row of knitting needles FN and the back-side row of knitting needles BN due to the action of the jacquard mechanism.
  • the knit texture in (b) of FIG. 9 is composed of repetition units of 2-2/2-3/2-3/1-0//. Therefore, overlapping with respect to the back-side row of knitting needles BN is performed twice every time overlapping with respect to the front-side row of knitting needles FN is performed once. In this manner, the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 overlap both the front-side row of knitting needles FN and the back-side row of knitting needles BN so that the front-side base fabric 1 is joined to the back-side base fabric 2.
  • the back jacquard yarns reciprocate between three needles in the wale direction in one repetition unit while forming a needle loop. Therefore, the back jacquard yarns join different wales in the chain stitch texture formed by the yarns fed from the guide bar GB2 and the chain stitch texture formed by the yarns fed from the guide bar GB8.
  • FIG. 9 an example of a knit texture is illustrated in which the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 overlap the front-side row of knitting needles FN due to the action of the jacquard mechanism.
  • the knit texture in (c) of FIG. 9 is one called a front thin cloth texture, and is composed of repetition units of 1-0/1-1/1-2/0-0//.
  • the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 overlap the front-side row of knitting needles FN so that the back jacquard yarns are knitted into the front-side base fabric 1.
  • the back jacquard yarns appear on the surface (the front-side surface) of the front-side base fabric 1.
  • the back jacquard yarns reciprocate between two needles in the wale direction in one repetition unit while forming a needle loop. Therefore, the back jacquard yarns join different wales of the chain stitch texture formed by the yarns fed from the guide bar GB2.
  • FIG. 9 an example of a knit texture is illustrated in which the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 warp only within the same wale due to the action of the jacquard mechanism.
  • the knit texture in (d) of FIG. 9 is one called a hole texture, and is composed of repetition units of 1-0/0-1/1-1/1-0//. In this case, the back jacquard yarns do not join adjacent wales of the chain stitch texture formed by the yarns fed from the guide bars GB2 and GB8.
  • the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 overlap the front-side row of knitting needles FN and the back-side row of knitting needles BN, and the back jacquard yarns are knitted into the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2.
  • the front-side base fabric 1 is joined to the back-side base fabric 2.
  • FIG. 9 an example of a knit texture is illustrated in which the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 warp only within the same wale due to the action of the jacquard mechanism.
  • the knit texture in (e) of FIG. 9 is one called a hole texture, and is composed of repetition units of 1-1/0-1/1-1/1-0//.
  • the back jacquard yarns do not join adjacent wales of the chain stitch texture formed by the yarns fed from the guide bars GB2 and GB8 .
  • the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 overlap only the back-side row of knitting needles BN, and thus the back jacquard yarns do not join the front-side base fabric 1 to the back-side base fabric 2.
  • a hole may be formed in the warp knitted fabric, or a specific yarn may be caused to appear on the front-side or back-side surface of the warp knitted fabric. Then, by changing a combination for each knitting position, a jacquard pattern may be formed on the front-side or back-side surface of the warp knitted fabric. Irregularities matching the jacquard pattern may be formed.
  • the front thick cloth texture as illustrated in (a) of FIG. 8 is selected, and as a knit texture formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 at the same position, the back thick cloth texture as illustrated in (a) of FIG. 9 is selected.
  • the front jacquard yarns appear on the front-side surface of the warp knitted fabric, and the back jacquard yarns appear on the back-side surface.
  • the front-side base fabric 1 is not joined to the back-side base fabric 2.
  • the back thin cloth texture as illustrated in (c) of FIG. 8 is selected, and as a knit texture formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 at the same position, the front thin cloth texture as illustrated in (c) of FIG. 9 is selected.
  • the back jacquard yarns appear on the front-side surface of the warp knitted fabric, and the front jacquard yarns appear on the back-side surface.
  • sinker loops of the front jacquard yarns and sinker loops of the back jacquard yarns do not directly intersect.
  • both the sinker loops of the front jacquard yarns and the sinker loops of the back jacquard yarns get entangled with the insertion yarns inserted by the guide bar GB5. Therefore, the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2 are joined to each other while mutually attracting each other.
  • the knit texture in (b) of FIG. 8 is selected and, and as a knit texture formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 at the same position, a knit texture in (b) of FIG. 9 is selected.
  • all jacquard bars JB3, JB4, JB6, and JB7 overlap both the front-side row of knitting needles FN and the back-side row of knitting needles BN so that the front-side base fabric 1 is joined to the back-side base fabric 2.
  • the extent of wrapping of the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 with respect to the front-side row of knitting needles FN is larger than that of the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 .
  • the front jacquard yarns mainly appear on the front-side surface of the warp knitted fabric.
  • a portion in which the front jacquard yarns appear and a portion in which the back jacquard yarns appear are formed on the back-side surface of the warp knitted fabric.
  • the insertion yarns inserted by the guide bar GB5 are inserted between the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2.
  • the insertion yarns are compressed at the joining position where the front-side base fabric 1 is joined to the back-side base fabric 2, and are not compressed at the non-joining position where the front-side base fabric 1 is not joined to the back-side base fabric 2.
  • irregularities conforming to the jacquard pattern are formed in the warp knitted fabric.
  • the concave portion is a portion composed of the joining position of the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2.
  • the warp knitted fabric bulges more largely at the base fabric side with the longer sinker loops. This is also the same as that in the first embodiment.
  • the hole texture in (d) or (e) of FIG. 8 is selected, and as a knit texture formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 at the same position, the hole texture in (d) or (e) of FIG. 9 is selected. Therefore, at the corresponding position, adjacent wales are not joined in the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2, and a hole is formed at the corresponding position in the warp knitted fabric.
  • the hole texture in (d) of FIG. 8 is selected as the knit texture formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4, or the hole texture in (d) of FIG. 9 is selected as the knit texture formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7
  • the front-side base fabric 1 is joined to the back-side base fabric 2 at the opening end of the hole in the warp knitted fabric.
  • the front-side surface of the warp knitted fabric 110 knitted in the knitting example 2 is illustrated in FIG. 10 .
  • the warp knitted fabric 110 is formed by integrally knitting an upper part 111 and a peripheral part 112 thereof used for a shoe upper.
  • the upper part 111 includes a pattern composed of a toe portion 120, a front portion 121, a side portion 123, a top portion 124, and a rear portion 125.
  • the knit textures in FIG. 7 are formed by the guide bars GB2, GB5, GB8, and GB9.
  • the knit textures to be described below are formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 and the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7.
  • the front thick cloth texture in (a) of FIG. 8 is formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4, and the back thick cloth texture in (a) of FIG. 9 is formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7. Therefore, the front-side surface of the toe portion 120 has a light grey color which is a color of the yarns fed from the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4. Since the front-side base fabric 1 is not joined to the back-side base fabric 2, the toe portion 120 bulges to become a convex portion.
  • the knit texture in (b) of FIG. 8 is formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4, and the knit texture in (b) of FIG. 9 is formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7. Therefore, the front-side surface of the front portion 121 has a light grey color close to the color of the yarns fed from the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4. In the front portion 121, since the front-side base fabric 1 is joined to the back-side base fabric 2, the insertion yarns inserted by the guide bar GB5 are compressed by being pressed from the front side and the back side. Thus, the front portion 121 does not bulge.
  • the hole texture in (d) of FIG. 8 is formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4, and the hole texture in (d) of FIG. 9 is formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7. Accordingly, a plurality of holes 130 are formed. These holes 130 become vent holes for shoes.
  • the knit texture in (b) of FIG. 8 is formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4, and the knit texture in (b) of FIG. 9 is formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7. Therefore, the front-side surface of the top portion 124 has a light grey color close to the color of the yarns fed from the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4. In the top portion 124, since the front-side base fabric 1 is joined to the back-side base fabric 2, the insertion yarns inserted by the guide bar GB5 are compressed by being pressed from the front side and the back side. Thus, the top portion 124 does not bulge.
  • the hole texture in (d) of FIG. 8 is formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4, and the hole texture in (d) of FIG. 9 is formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7. Accordingly, a plurality of holes 131 are formed. These holes 131 become holes through which a shoelace passes in shoes.
  • the back thin cloth texture in (c) of FIG. 8 is formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4, and the front thin cloth texture in (c) of FIG. 9 is formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7. Therefore, the front-side surface of the side portion 123 has a dark grey color which is a color of the yarns fed from the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7.
  • the front-side base fabric 1 is joined to the back-side base fabric 2, the insertion yarns inserted by the guide bar GB5 are compressed by being pressed from the front side and the back side. Thus, the side portion 123 does not bulge.
  • wavy pattern portions 126 are formed in the side portion 123.
  • the front thick cloth texture in (a) of FIG. 8 is formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4
  • the back thick cloth texture in (a) of FIG. 9 is formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7.
  • the front-side surface of the pattern portion 126 has a light grey which is a color of the yarns fed from the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4. Since the front-side base fabric 1 is not joined to the back-side base fabric 2, the pattern portion 126 bulges to become a convex portion.
  • the knit texture in (b) of FIG. 8 is formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4, and the knit texture in (b) of FIG. 9 is formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7. Therefore, the front-side surface of the rear portion 125 has a light grey close to the color of the yarns fed from the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4. In the rear portion 125, since the front-side base fabric 1 is joined to the back-side base fabric 2, the insertion yarns inserted by the guide bar GB5 are compressed by being pressed from the front side and the back side. Thus, the rear portion 125 does not bulge.
  • wavy pattern portions 127 are formed in the rear portion 125.
  • the front thick cloth texture in (a) of FIG. 8 is formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4, and the back thick cloth texture in (a) of FIG. 9 is formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7. Therefore, the front-side surface of the pattern portion 127 has a light grey color which is a color of the yarns fed from the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4. Since the front-side base fabric 1 is not joined to the back-side base fabric 2, the pattern portion 127 bulges to become a convex portion.
  • the same knit texture as that of, for example, the toe portion 120 is employed. Accordingly, on the front-side surface of the warp knitted fabric 110, the boundary portion between the above portions becomes a clear bulging boundary line in a light grey color.
  • the toe portion 120, the pattern portions 126 of the side portion 123, the pattern portions 127 of the rear portion 125, and the boundary portions between the respective portions become bulging convex portions in light grey, the front portion 121, the top portion 124, and the rear portion 125 become non-bulging concave portions in light grey, and the side portion 123 becomes a non-bulging concave portion in dark grey.
  • a jacquard pattern and irregularities conforming to the jacquard pattern are formed on the front-side surface of the warp knitted fabric 110.
  • a jacquard pattern is formed on the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2 of the warp knitted fabric 110, and further irregularities conforming to the jacquard pattern are formed.
  • the knit texture in (b) of FIG. 8 is formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4, and the knit texture in (b) of FIG. 9 is formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7.
  • the front-side base fabric 1 is joined to the back-side base fabric 2.
  • a plurality of shoe upper-shaped portions are arranged in rows and columns. After the knitting, in a proper process, the plurality of upper parts 111 are separated and collected from one warp knitted fabric 110.
  • irregularities conforming to a pattern of the warp knitted fabric 110 may be formed and further holes may be formed.
  • a structure of a warp knitting machine in the third embodiment and a basic method of manufacturing a warp knitted fabric are the same as those in the first embodiment.
  • FIG. 11 A knit texture view of the knitting example of the third embodiment is illustrated in FIG. 11 .
  • the guide bars GB2, GB5, GB8, and GB9, the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 and the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 are used for knitting.
  • the knit texture of the guide bar GB2 is composed of repetition units of 1-0/0-0/1-2/1-1//, and forms a Denbigh texture on the front-side base fabric 1.
  • the knit texture of the guide bar GB5 as illustrated in (c) of FIG. 11 is an insertion texture and is composed of repetition units of 0-0/1-1/1-1/0-0//.
  • the knit texture of the guide bar GB8 as illustrated in (e) of FIG. 11 is a chain stitch texture, and is composed of repetition units of 1-1/1-0/0-0/0-1//.
  • the knit texture of the guide bar GB9 as illustrated in (f) of FIG. 11 is composed of repetition units of 1-1/1-0/0-0/1-2//, and forms a Denbigh texture on the back-side base fabric 2.
  • FIG. 11 also illustrates basic textures formed by the jacquard bars JB3, JB4, JB6, and JB7, that is, knit textures formed by the jacquard bars JB3, JB4, JB6, and JB7 when the jacquard mechanism does not work.
  • the basic texture formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 as illustrated in (b) of FIG. 11 is composed of repetition units of 1-0/1-1/1-1/1-0//.
  • the basic texture formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 as illustrated in (d) of FIG. 11 is composed of repetition units of 0-0/0-1/0-1/0-0//.
  • the above basic texture formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 is indicated by a broken line, and an example of a knit texture formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 is indicated by a solid line when the jacquard mechanism acts.
  • FIG. 12 an example of a knit texture is illustrated in which the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 overlap the front-side row of knitting needles FN due to the action of the jacquard mechanism.
  • the knit texture in (a) of FIG. 12 is composed of repetition units of 1-0/1-1/1-2/1-1//.
  • the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 overlap the front-side row of knitting needles FN so that the front-side base fabric 1 is formed by the front jacquard yarns and yarns fed from the guide bar GB2.
  • the front jacquard yarns appear on the surface (the front-side surface) of the front-side base fabric 1.
  • FIG. 12 an example of a knit texture is illustrated in which the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 overlap the back-side row of knitting needles BN due to the action of the jacquard mechanism.
  • the knit texture in (b) of FIG. 12 is composed of repetition units of 1-1/1-2/1-1/1-0//.
  • the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 overlap the back-side row of knitting needles BN so that the front jacquard yarns are knitted into the back-side base fabric 2.
  • the front jacquard yarns appear on the surface (the back-side surface) of the back-side base fabric 2.
  • FIG. 12 an example of a knit texture is illustrated in which the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 wrap only within the same wale due to the action of the jacquard mechanism.
  • the knit texture in (c) of FIG. 12 is one called a hole texture, and is composed of repetition units of 1-0/0-1/0-1/0-0//.
  • the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 overlap the front-side row of knitting needles FN and the back-side row of knitting needles BN, and the front jacquard yarns are knitted into the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2.
  • the front-side base fabric 1 is joined to the back-side base fabric 2.
  • the above described basic texture formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 is indicated by a broken line, and an example of a knit texture formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 is indicated by a solid line when the jacquard mechanism acts.
  • FIG. 13 an example of a knit texture is illustrated in which the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 overlap the back-side row of knitting needles BN due to the action of the jacquard mechanism.
  • the knit texture in (a) of FIG. 13 is composed of repetition units of 1-1/1-2/1-1/1-0//.
  • the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 overlap the back-side row of knitting needles BN so that the back-side base fabric 2 is formed by the back jacquard yarns and the yarns fed from the guide bars GB8 and GB9.
  • the back jacquard yarns appear on the surface (the back-side surface) of the back-side base fabric 2.
  • FIG. 13 an example of a knit texture is illustrated in which the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 overlap the front-side row of knitting needles FN due to the action of the jacquard mechanism.
  • the knit texture in (b) of FIG. 13 is composed of repetition units of 1-0/1-1/1-2/1-1//.
  • the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 overlap the front-side row of knitting needles FN so that the back jacquard yarns are knitted into the front-side base fabric 1.
  • the back jacquard yarns appear on the surface (the front-side surface) of the front-side base fabric 1.
  • (c) of FIG. 13 an example of a knit texture is illustrated in which the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 warp only within the same wale due to the action of the jacquard mechanism.
  • the knit texture in (c) of FIG. 13 is one called a hole texture, and is composed of repetition units of 1-0/0-1/1-1/1-0//.
  • the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 overlap the front-side row of knitting needles FN and the back-side row of knitting needles BN, and the back jacquard yarns are knitted into the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2.
  • the front-side base fabric 1 is joined to the back-side base fabric 2.
  • one of knit textures in (a) to (c) of FIG. 12 is selected as a knit texture formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 at each knitting position.
  • one of knit textures in (a) to (c) of FIG. 13 is selected as a knit texture formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 at each knitting position. In this manner, at each knitting position, a combination of the knit texture formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 and the knit texture formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 is realized.
  • a specific yarn may be caused to appear on the front-side or back-side surface of the warp knitted fabric. Then, by changing a combination for each knitting position, a jacquard pattern may be formed on the front-side or back-side surface of the warp knitted fabric. Irregularities conforming to the jacquard pattern may be formed. Although not illustrated in FIG. 11 , a hole may be formed in the warp knitted fabric depending on the combination in the case where the knit texture formed by the guide bars GB2, GB8, and GB9 is a knit texture in which adjacent wales are not joined.
  • the knit texture in the case of overlapping with respect to the front-side row of knitting needles FN as illustrated in (a) of FIG. 12 is selected, and as a knit texture formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 at the same position, the knit texture in the case of overlapping with respect to the back-side row of knitting needles BN as illustrated in (a) of FIG. 13 is selected.
  • the front jacquard yarns appear on the front-side surface of the warp knitted fabric
  • the back jacquard yarns appear on the back-side surface.
  • the front-side base fabric 1 is not joined to the back-side base fabric 2.
  • the knit texture in the case of overlapping with respect to the back-side row of knitting needles BN as illustrated in (b) of FIG. 12 is selected, and as a knit texture formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 at the same position, the knit texture in the case of overlapping with respect to the front-side row of knitting needles FN as illustrated in (b) of FIG. 13 is selected.
  • the back jacquard yarns appear on the front-side surface of the warp knitted fabric
  • the front jacquard yarns appear on the back-side surface.
  • the insertion yarns inserted by the guide bar GB5 are inserted between the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2.
  • the insertion yarns are compressed at the joining position where the front-side base fabric 1 is joined to the back-side base fabric 2, and are not compressed at the non-joining position where the front-side base fabric 1 is not joined to the back-side base fabric 2.
  • irregularities conforming to the jacquard pattern are formed in the warp knitted fabric. This is the same as that in the first embodiment.
  • the hole texture illustrated in (c) of FIG. 12 is selected, and as a knit texture formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 at the same position, the hole texture illustrated in (c) of FIG. 13 is selected.
  • a chain stitch texture is selected as a knit texture of the guide bar GB2
  • a chain stitch texture is selected as a knit texture of the guide bar GB8
  • an insertion texture only within the same wale is selected as a knit texture of the guide bar GB9.
  • a hole is formed at the corresponding position in the warp knitted fabric.
  • the front-side surface of the warp knitted fabric 210 knitted in the knitting example 3 is illustrated in FIG. 14 .
  • the warp knitted fabric 210 may be used as a quilting for use in cold weather clothing, pouches, interior goods or the like.
  • the warp knitted fabric 210 has a pattern including a plurality of graphic portions 211 aligned in the longitudinal direction (the warp direction, the knitting direction) and the lateral direction (the weft direction, the width direction), and line portions 212 that partitioning the graphic portions 211.
  • the knit textures in FIG. 11 are formed by the guide bars GB2, GB5, GB8, and GB9.
  • the knit textures to be described below are formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 and the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7.
  • the knit texture in (a) of FIG. 12 is formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4, and the knit texture in (a) of FIG. 13 is formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7. Therefore, the front-side surface of the graphic portion 211 has an orange color which is a color of the yarns fed from the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4. Since the front-side base fabric 1 is not joined to the back-side base fabric 2, the insertion yarns inserted by the guide bar GB5 are not compressed. Therefore, the graphic portion 211 bulges to become a convex portion.
  • the knit texture in (b) of FIG. 12 is formed by the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4, and the knit texture in (b) of FIG. 13 is formed by the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7.
  • the front-side surface of the line portion 212 has a white color which is a color of the yarns fed from the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7. Since the front-side base fabric 1 is joined to the back-side base fabric 2, the insertion yarns inserted by the guide bar GB5 are compressed. Thus, the line portion 212 does not bulge to become a concave portion.
  • the graphic portions 211 become bulging convex portions in an orange color, and the line portions 212 become non-bulging concave portions in white.
  • a jacquard pattern and irregularities conforming to the jacquard pattern are formed.
  • a jacquard pattern composed of the graphic portions 211 and the line portions 212 are formed on the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2 of the warp knitted fabric 210, and further irregularities conforming to the jacquard pattern are formed.
  • the line portions 212 correspond to a sewn-up portion in quilting.
  • the front cloth and the back cloth are individually manufactured, and a core material made of cotton or the like is interposed between the front cloth and the back cloth, and finally sewed at a predetermined position.
  • the front-side base fabric 1 as the front cloth and the back-side base fabric 2 as the back cloth are knitted at once, and simultaneously with the knitting, the insertion yarns are inserted from the guide bar GB5, as a core material. Further, at the same time, the front-side base fabric 1 is joined to the back-side base fabric 2.
  • the quilting may be manufactured with a dramatically high efficiency as compared to that in the conventional method.
  • the quilting with holes may be manufactured with a dramatically high efficiency as compared to that in the conventional method.
  • the warp knitted fabric in each of the above described embodiments may be used for not only the shoe upper as exemplified above, or the like, but also various objects, e.g., clothing such as outerwear, interior goods, automotive materials such as interior materials, ceiling materials, or sheet materials of automobiles, medical supplies such as sanitary materials or medical clothing, bedding, chairs, a backrest part or a shoulder strap of a rucksack.
  • clothing such as outerwear, interior goods, automotive materials such as interior materials, ceiling materials, or sheet materials of automobiles
  • medical supplies such as sanitary materials or medical clothing, bedding, chairs, a backrest part or a shoulder strap of a rucksack.
  • the above described knitting examples 1 to 3 are exemplary only, but various knitting methods other than the knitting examples 1 to 3 may be performed by the warp knitting machine in the above described embodiments.
  • two colors of yarns are prepared, in which yarns of one color are fed to the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4, and yarns of the other color are fed to the guide bars GB2, GB5, GB8, and GB9 and the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7.
  • the number of types of yarns to be used, or a method of feeding these yarns to jacquard bars and guide bars are not limited to those in the embodiments as described above.
  • three colors of yarns may be prepared, in which yarns of one color are fed to the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4, yarns of another color are fed to the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7, and yarns of the other color are fed to the guide bars GB2, GB5, GB8, and GB9.
  • multi-color yarns may be fed to the front jacquard bars JB3 and JB4 or the back jacquard bars JB6 and JB7 so that a color changes in the width direction of the jacquard bars.
  • a jacquard pattern is formed in which a color changes in the width direction (the weft direction) of the warp knitted fabric.
  • a weft as an insertion yarn between the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2 using the same structure as a weft insertion raschel machine. Accordingly, since the weft and the insertion yarn inserted by the guide bar GB5 are inserted between the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2, the warp knitted fabric may bulge more largely. Meanwhile, when the weft is inserted between the front-side base fabric 1 and the back-side base fabric 2, all the adjacent wales are joined to each other. Thus, a hole may not be formed in the warp knitted fabric.
  • Two or more guide bars may be provided between a pair of jacquard bars at the front side and a pair of jacquard bars at the back side.
  • warp knitted fabric 111... upper part, 112... peripheral part, 120... toe portion, 121... front portion, 123... side portion, 124... top portion, 125... rear portion, 126... pattern portion, 127... pattern portion, 130, 131... hole, 210... warp knitted fabric, 211... graphic portion, 212... line portion

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)
  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)
  • Chair Legs, Seat Parts, And Backrests (AREA)

Claims (7)

  1. Métier Rachel du type à double fonture à mailles jetées comportant une paire de barres Jacquard au niveau d'un côté avant (JB3, JB4), une paire de barres Jacquard au niveau d'un côté arrière (JB6, JB7), au moins une barre de guidage (GB2) devant la paire de barres Jacquard au niveau du côté avant (JB3, JB4), et au moins une barre de guidage (GB8) à l'arrière de la paire de barres Jacquard au niveau du côté arrière (JB6, JB7), dans lequel la paire de barres Jacquard au niveau du côté avant (JB3, JB4) et la paire de barres Jacquard au niveau du côté arrière (JB6, JB7) sont formées avec deux barres Jacquard de type demi-jauge (JB3, JB4) et deux barres Jacquard de type demi-jauge (JB6, JB7), respectivement ; caractérisé en ce qu'au moins une barre de guidage (GB5) est mise en œuvre entre la paire de barres Jacquard au niveau du côté avant (JB3, JB4) et la paire de barres Jacquard au niveau du côté arrière (JB6, JB7).
  2. Procédé de fabrication d'un tissu à mailles jetées ayant un tissu de base côté avant (1) et un tissu de base côté arrière (2) en utilisant un métier Rachel du type à double fonture, comportant les étapes consistant à
    tricoter le tissu de base côté avant (1) et le tissu de base côté arrière (2) en utilisant le métier Rachel du type à double fonture comprenant une paire de barres Jacquard au niveau d'un côté avant (JB3, JB4), et une paire de barres Jacquard au niveau d'un côté arrière (JB6, JB7) qui sont formées avec deux barres Jacquard de type demi-jauge (JB3, JB4) et deux barres Jacquard de type demi-jauge (JB6, JB7), respectivement ; et
    former un dessin Jacquard dans le tissu de base côté avant (1) et dans le tissu de base côté arrière (2) en utilisant des fils Jacquard (3) alimentés en provenance des barres Jacquard respectives (JB3, JB4, JB6, JB7), en faisant fonctionner des mécanismes Jacquard de la paire de barres Jacquard au niveau du côté avant (JB3, JB4), et la paire de barres Jacquard au niveau du côté arrière (JB6, JB7), respectivement,
    et caractérisé en ce que
    une position d'assemblage (5) où le tissu de base côté avant (1) est assemblé au tissu de base côté arrière (2) par les fils Jacquard (3) en raison du fonctionnement des mécanismes Jacquard, et une position de non-assemblage (6) où le tissu de base côté avant (1) n'est pas assemblé au tissu de base côté arrière (2) sont mises en œuvre, et
    des fils d'insertion (4) sont insérés entre le tissu de base côté avant (1) et le tissu de base côté arrière (2) par au moins une barre de guidage (GB5) disposée entre la paire de barres Jacquard au niveau du côté avant (JB3, JB4), et la paire de barres Jacquard au niveau du côté arrière (JB6, JB7), et
    les fils d'insertion (4) sont comprimés en étant pressés depuis le tissu de base côté avant (1) et le tissu de base côté arrière (2) au niveau de la position d'assemblage (5) du tissu de base côté avant (1) et du tissu de base côté arrière (2).
  3. Procédé selon la revendication 2, dans lequel
    une texture de point de chaînette est formée dans le tissu de base côté avant (1) par une barre de guidage (GB2) devant la paire de barres Jacquard au niveau du côté avant (JB3, JB4), et une texture de point de chaînette est formée dans le tissu de base côté arrière (2) par une barre de guidage (GB8) à l'arrière de la paire de barres Jacquard au niveau du côté arrière (JB6, JB7),
    une position d'assemblage où des colonnes adjacentes de la texture de point de chaînette sont assemblées par les fils Jacquard (3) et une position de non-assemblage où les colonnes adjacentes ne sont pas assemblées sont formées dans chacun du tissu de base côté avant (1) et du tissu de base côté arrière (2), et
    la position de non-assemblage des colonnes adjacentes de la texture de point de chaînette dans le tissu de base côté avant (1) est amenée à correspondre à la position de non-assemblage des colonnes adjacentes de la texture de point de chaînette dans le tissu de base côté arrière (2) de manière à former des trous (30, 31, 32, 130, 131) dans le tissu à mailles jetées.
  4. Tissu à mailles jetées comportant un tissu de base côté avant (1) et un tissu de base côté arrière (2) ayant un dessin Jacquard formé par les fils Jacquard (3) dans le tissu de base côté avant (1) et dans le tissu de base côté arrière (2), caractérisé en ce que
    une position d'assemblage (5) où le tissu de base côté avant (1) est assemblé au tissu de base côté arrière (2) par les fils Jacquard (3), et une position de non-assemblage (6) où le tissu de base côté avant (1) n'est pas assemblé au tissu de base côté arrière (2) sont mises en œuvre, et
    des fils d'insertion (4) sont insérés entre le tissu de base côté avant (1) et le tissu de base côté arrière (2), et
    les fils d'insertion (4) sont comprimés en étant pressés depuis le tissu de base côté avant (1) et le tissu de base côté arrière (2) au niveau de la position d'assemblage (5) du tissu de base côté avant (1) et du tissu de base côté arrière (2).
  5. Tissu à mailles jetées selon la revendication 4, dans lequel, au niveau de la position de non-assemblage (6) du tissu de base côté avant (1) et du tissu de base côté arrière (2), une surface du tissu à mailles jetées fait saillie vers au moins l'un parmi un côté avant et un côté arrière.
  6. Tissu à mailles jetées selon la revendication 4 ou la revendication 5, dans lequel
    une texture de point de chaînette est formée dans chacun du tissu de base côté avant (1) et du tissu de base côté arrière (2),
    une position d'assemblage où des colonnes adjacentes de la texture de point de chaînette sont assemblées par les fils Jacquard (3) et une position de non-assemblage où les colonnes adjacentes ne sont pas assemblées sont formées, et
    la position de non-assemblage des colonnes adjacentes dans le tissu de base côté avant (1) correspond à la position de non-assemblage des colonnes adjacentes dans le tissu de base côté arrière (2) dans une direction allant dans le sens avant-arrière du tissu à mailles jetées de manière à former des trous (30, 31, 32, 130, et 131).
  7. Dessus de chaussure caractérisé en ce qu'il comporte le tissu à mailles jetées selon l'une quelconque des revendications 4 à 6.
EP17195477.9A 2017-04-07 2017-10-09 Machine de tricotage en chaîne, procédé de fabrication de tissus tricotés en chaîne et tissu tricoté en chaîne Active EP3385420B1 (fr)

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CN110499573A (zh) * 2019-07-31 2019-11-26 武汉纺织大学 一种多贾卡经编机、编织方法及其所得编织织物
DE102019220470B4 (de) * 2019-12-20 2023-05-17 Adidas Ag Gestricktes Schuhoberteil mit integralen Ösen
CN111990862B (zh) * 2020-09-04 2022-04-15 杭州汇盛针纺有限公司 一种隔热窗帘
CN113430705B (zh) * 2021-07-09 2024-04-12 福建利港新材料科技有限公司 一种双贾卡经编织物及其编织工艺
JP7306526B1 (ja) 2022-04-08 2023-07-11 カール マイヤー ストール アールアンドディー ゲーエムベーハー 経編地の編成方法及び経編機
JP7441996B1 (ja) 2023-05-25 2024-03-01 カール マイヤー ストール アールアンドディー ゲーエムベーハー 経編機及び経編地の編成方法

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JP3939884B2 (ja) * 1999-10-20 2007-07-04 日本マイヤー株式会社 ダブルラッシェル機による柄入り立体成形物及びその編成方法
JP2004019040A (ja) * 2002-06-17 2004-01-22 Nippon Mayer Ltd ダブルニードル列経編機によるパイル経編地の製法
JP4278458B2 (ja) * 2003-07-25 2009-06-17 日本マイヤー株式会社 経編地
JP4365775B2 (ja) * 2004-12-02 2009-11-18 日本マイヤー株式会社 ダブルジャカード筬を用いたメッシュスペーサファブリックの製法及び該製法により製造されたスペーサファブリック
JP2008169533A (ja) 2006-12-11 2008-07-24 Nippon Mayer Ltd ジャカード経編地の製編方法と婦人用下着
JP5955282B2 (ja) * 2013-08-05 2016-07-20 南京優尼可国際貿易有限公司 立体構造布帛
CN103556384B (zh) * 2013-11-12 2016-01-20 莆田市华峰工贸有限公司 一种单色或多色双层间隔提花经编布及其编织方法
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KR20180113891A (ko) 2018-10-17
CN108691089A (zh) 2018-10-23
JP2018178291A (ja) 2018-11-15
PL3385420T3 (pl) 2021-04-06
TW201837257A (zh) 2018-10-16
EP3385420A1 (fr) 2018-10-10
TWI772321B (zh) 2022-08-01
KR102389840B1 (ko) 2022-04-22
JP6921594B2 (ja) 2021-08-18
CN108691089B (zh) 2021-08-03

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