EP3452007A1 - Verfahren zur kurzfristigen verbesserung des feuchthaltungszustands der epidermis der menschlichen haut, neuartige feuchthaltungszusammensetzungen - Google Patents

Verfahren zur kurzfristigen verbesserung des feuchthaltungszustands der epidermis der menschlichen haut, neuartige feuchthaltungszusammensetzungen

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Publication number
EP3452007A1
EP3452007A1 EP17725693.0A EP17725693A EP3452007A1 EP 3452007 A1 EP3452007 A1 EP 3452007A1 EP 17725693 A EP17725693 A EP 17725693A EP 3452007 A1 EP3452007 A1 EP 3452007A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
composition
formula
equal
weight
skin
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP17725693.0A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Armelle BERGE
Laetitia CATTUZZATO
Sandy Dumont
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Societe dExploitation de Produits pour les Industries Chimiques SEPPIC SA
Original Assignee
Societe dExploitation de Produits pour les Industries Chimiques SEPPIC SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Societe dExploitation de Produits pour les Industries Chimiques SEPPIC SA filed Critical Societe dExploitation de Produits pour les Industries Chimiques SEPPIC SA
Publication of EP3452007A1 publication Critical patent/EP3452007A1/de
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/16Emollients or protectives, e.g. against radiation
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P37/00Drugs for immunological or allergic disorders
    • A61P37/08Antiallergic agents
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007Preparations for dry skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the use of topical compositions based on polyols-glycosides and glycerol and / or oligomers of glycerol, to hydrate the skin in the short term.
  • the present invention also relates to novel compositions for topical use based on polyols-glycosides and oligomers of glycerol.
  • the invention is mainly applicable in the fields of cosmetics and dermopharmacy, but also in the field of the textile industry for example for the treatment of synthetic or natural textile fibers woven or knitted, or in the field of the paper industry for example for the manufacture of paper for sanitary or domestic use.
  • the skin is an atypical organ of the human body, extremely fine in terms of its extent but also the heaviest organ of an individual.
  • One of the characteristics of the skin lies in the fact that it is an interface organ, a limiting organ, between the internal environment (human body) and the external environment. Because of this, and with the flora that covers and inhabits it, the skin is the first barrier of protection for the human body.
  • the skin is subjected to many daily demands, such as for example the contact with clothes, the changes of temperatures, the changes of degrees of hygrometry, the changes of pressure or even aggression, such as contact with certain chemicals that may or may be highly acidic, or very basic, or irritating, with chemicals considered as pollutants.
  • the skin is composed of layers of different tissues:
  • the dermis which is a connective tissue composed mainly of fibroblasts and the extracellular matrix
  • hypodermis consisting of adipocytes, which is the deepest and furthest part of the external environment.
  • the skin provides various functions in the interest of the entire system that houses, among which we can remember:
  • Human skin is also the first image offered in the eyes of others. Therefore, the improvement of its appearance is a subject of constant concern for human beings.
  • the skin is a reflection of a state of well-being, often associated with youth, and a contrario a state of fatigue and / or aging.
  • the preservation, the improvement of the state of the outermost layer of the skin, namely the epidermis, constitutes a major center of interest for the research carried out by the cosmetic industries.
  • stratum corneum At the periphery of the epidermis is an upper horny layer, called the stratum corneum, which is the first layer of the epidermis to undergo stresses of external origin, such as variations in external climatic conditions (temperature, pressure, hygrometry) or mechanical stresses. Therefore, improving the appearance or maintaining the good appearance of human skin, including maintaining a state of hydration of the stratum corneum to an optimal and satisfactory level. In addition, this makes it possible to avoid the aesthetic and physiological disadvantages associated with a state of dryness of the skin.
  • stratum corneum tends to dehydrate and dry when exposed to low humidity or when it is contacted for prolonged and frequent contact with a detergent solution.
  • Measuring the level of hydration in the stratum corneum that is to say, the water content in it, and The measurement of water insensitive loss (or PIE), ie the flow of water evaporating from the skin by the stratum corneum, due to the passive diffusion of water from the deepest layers from the skin towards the outside environment and because of perspiration, which can be detected at any moment on its surface.
  • PIE water insensitive loss
  • the level of hydration of the skin is measured by bio-metrological techniques, notably based on measurements of cutaneous capacitance or cutaneous impedance. Different commercial devices are available to carry out such measurements. An increase in impedance or capacitance indicates an increase in the skin's hydration rate and hence the water content in the stratum corneum.
  • Insensitive water loss is measured by bio-metrological techniques consisting of the application, at the surface of the skin and under standardized conditions, of an instrument consisting of an open cylinder in which a probe measures , dynamically, the flow of water evaporation.
  • an instrument consisting of an open cylinder in which a probe measures , dynamically, the flow of water evaporation.
  • similar instruments based on a closed chamber system have been more recently developed and are also available.
  • a decrease in the "water insensitive loss" measured at the surface of the stratum corneum indicates a reduction in the evaporation of the water contained
  • an improvement in the hydration of the skin, and more particularly of the stratum corneum can be conceived by bringing the skin into contact with compounds that have a "moisturizing effect".
  • hydrating effect means an increase in the level of hydration of the stratum corneum resulting from the topical application of a chemical substance or a chemical composition on the surface of the skin to be treated.
  • short-term hydrating effect is meant within the meaning of the present application an increase in the hydration rate of the stratum corneum, measured and observed within a period of between three and eight hours, and resulting from the single topical application of a chemical substance or chemical composition on the surface of the skin to be treated.
  • the term "occlusive effect” means a reduction in the insensitive loss of water, as defined above, measured on the surface of the skin at the level of the stratum corneum.
  • immediate occlusive effect is meant for the purposes of the present application a reduction of the insensible loss of water, as defined above, taking effect in a short period, for example a period of between 30 minutes and one hour after topical application of a chemical substance or chemical composition on the surface of the skin to be treated.
  • An issue of cutaneous hydration, and therefore associated research, is to develop substances or compositions that are characterized by an improved moisturizing effect without having to induce a significant occlusive effect, said occlusive effect being able to provoke disturbances of the natural functioning of a "non-pathological" skin, namely a skin that does not have an insensitive loss in water greater than 10 g / m 2 / h and therefore be contrary to the intended purpose.
  • Occlusive agents which are characterized by their ability to form an impermeable film on the surface of the skin and thus greatly reduce the evaporation of water on the surface of the epidermis.
  • Such agents are, for example, mineral oils such as petroleum jelly or liquid paraffins, glycerin, shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii butter), beeswax (Cera alba), certain vegetable oils such as olive oil. wheat, coconut oil, cocoa butter, lanolin and derivatives of silicone;
  • Emollient agents which are characterized by their ability to fill the intercellular spaces between the corneocytes (cells of the stratum corneum of the epidermis); they also limit the evaporation of water from the epidermis, but to a lesser extent than occlusive agents.
  • Such agents are, for example, ceramides, linoleic acid and certain vegetable oils such as sweet almond oil or jojoba oil;
  • Film-forming agents which are characterized by their ability to associate with water to form semi-permeable hydrogels; they thus participate in the modulation of the evaporation of the water of the stratum corneum.
  • Such agents are, for example, collagen, elastin, DNA, pectin, gelatin, chitosan, or glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid; - Humectants, hydrophilic substances and which are characterized by their high hygroscopic power, namely their ability to retain water.
  • such agents are for example urea, glycerol, lactic acid, amino acids , sodium lactate, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, alpha-hydroxy acids or sorbitol.
  • Glycerol, urea and lactic acid are the humectants most used in moisturizing cosmetic compositions, and especially glycerol for its very competitive cost.
  • humectants such as glycerine
  • some humectants also have an immediate occlusive effect, which is not desired for normal skin whose barrier function is not impaired.
  • some of them, as well as glycerin cause certain skin and mucous membrane irritations in particularly sensitive people.
  • Acetals resulting from the condensation of glycerol with glucose which are disclosed in the European patent application published under the number EP 0 770 378; they actually have a better skin tolerance than glycerol but have a generally lower moisturizing power.
  • glycosides obtained by acetalization of erythritol, xylitol or sorbitol as described in the French patent application published under the number FR 2 839 447 A1. These compounds have demonstrated better moisturizing properties than the aforementioned glycerol acetalization products.
  • EP201 1476 A2 discloses moisturizing compositions containing, in variable and definite proportions, urea, betaine, glycerol, at least one improvement agent chosen from Imperata extracts. cylindrica, yeast extracts, xylitylglycosides, as well as their use to hydrate the skin in the long run.
  • compositions based on polyols-glycosides and glycerol or oligomer glycerol for increasing the short-term hydration rate of the superficial layers of the skin, and more particularly the stratum corneum of the epidermis of human skin, without inducing an increase in the insensible water loss of said stratum corneum.
  • the subject of the invention is a process for improving the short-term hydration state of the stratum corneum of the epidermis of human skin, characterized in that it comprises at least one step a ) for applying to the surface of the skin to be treated, an effective amount of a composition for topical use (C) comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient (E) and a composition (Ci) consisting of, for 100% of its mass:
  • composition (a) from 20% by weight to 50% by weight of at least one composition (C 2 ), said composition (C 2 ) consisting of 100% of its mass:
  • composition (Ci) the mass ratio: composition (C A ) / compound of formula (III) is greater than or equal to 1/10 and less than or equal to 1/2.
  • anhydride of the polyol of formula (I) is denoted in particular
  • effective amount is meant, in the definition of the process as defined above, an amount such that the hydration state of the stratum corneum of the epidermis of human skin obtained after application to the epidermis of the skin to be treated shows:
  • composition (C) for topical use means, within the meaning of the present application, that said composition (C) is applied by application to the skin, scalp or skin.
  • mucous membranes be it a direct application in the case of a cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical composition or an indirect application for example in the case of a personal hygiene product, care or protection of the skin, being in the form of a textile article, such as a wipe, or paper, such as a paper for sanitary purposes.
  • reducing sugar denotes, in the formula (II) as defined above, saccharide derivatives which do not have in their glycosidic bonding structures established between an anomeric carbon and the oxygen of an acetal group as defined. in the reference work: "Biochemistry”, Daniel Voet / Judith G. Voet, p. 250, John Wyley & Sons, 1990.
  • the oligomeric (G) x structure may be in all forms of isomerism, whether it is optical isomerism, geometric isomerism or position isomerism; it can also represent a mixture of isomers.
  • said composition (Ci) consists of, for 100% by mass: (a) - from 20% by weight to 40% by weight, and more particularly from 20% to 35% by weight of said composition (C 2 ),
  • composition (C 2 ) consists of 100% of its mass:
  • composition (C A ) / compound of formula (III) is greater than or equal to 1/7 and less than or equal to 1/4.
  • (C A ) consists essentially of a mixture of compounds represented by the formulas (II-i), (II 2 ), (II 3 ), (II 4 ) and (II 5 ):
  • the HO-CH 2 - (CHOH) n -CH 2 -O- group is bonded to (G) x by the anomeric carbon of the saccharide residue, so as to form a acetal function.
  • the subject of the invention is a process as defined above, for which in formula (II), x represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 3, and most particularly greater than or equal to 1, 15 and less than or equal to 2.5.
  • the subject of the invention is a process as defined above, for which in the definition of the composition (C A ) represented by formula (II) and as defined above, said remainder G of a reducing sugar is chosen from the residues of glucose, xylose and arabinose and x represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 3, more particularly greater than or equal to 1.15 and lower or equal to 2.5.
  • the subject of the invention is a process as defined above, for which in formulas (I) and (II), m is equal to 2.
  • the subject of the invention is a process as defined above, for which in formulas (I) and (II), m is equal to 3.
  • the invention relates to a process as defined above, for which in formulas (I) and (II), m is equal to 4.
  • the subject of the invention is a process as defined above, for which in formula (III) p is equal to 1 or 2, and most particularly equal to 1.
  • the subject of the invention is a process as defined above, for which in formulas (I) (II) m is equal to 2, in formula (II) said remainder G of a reducing sugar represents the rest of the glucose, and x represents a decimal number between 1, 05 and 2.5, and in the formula (III), p and equal to 1 or 2, and more particularly equal to 1.
  • the subject of the invention is a process as defined above, for which in formulas (I) (II) m is equal to 3, in formula (II) said remainder G of a reducing sugar represents the rest of the glucose, and x represents a number decimal between 1, 05 and 2.5, and in formula (III), p and equal to 1 or 2, and more particularly equal to 1.
  • the subject of the invention is a process as defined above, for which in the formulas (I) (II) m is equal to 4, in formula (II) said remainder G of a reducing sugar represents the rest of the glucose, and x represents a decimal number between 1, 05 and 2.5, and in the formula (III), p and equal to 1 or 2, and more particularly equal to 1.
  • composition (d) consisting of, for 100% of its mass:
  • composition (a) from 20% by weight to 50% by weight of at least one composition (C 2 ), said composition (C 2 ) consisting of 100% of its mass:
  • composition (d) the mass ratio: composition (C A ) / compound of formula (III) is greater than or equal to 1/10 and less than or equal to 1/2.
  • reducing sugar denotes, in the formula (II) as defined above, saccharide derivatives which do not have in their glycosidic bonding structures established between an anomeric carbon and the oxygen of an acetal group as defined. in the reference work: "Biochemistry”, Daniel Voet / Judith G. Voet, p. 250, John Wyley & Sons, 1990.
  • the oligomeric (G) x structure may be in all forms of isomerism, whether it is optical isomerism, geometric isomerism or position isomerism; it can also represent a mixture of isomers.
  • the subject of the invention is a composition (Ci) as defined above, characterized in that in formula (II) said residue G of a reducing sugar is chosen from the residues of glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, idose, gulose, galactose, maltose, isomaltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, xylose, arabinose, lyxose, allose, altrose, dextran or tallose; According to a more particular aspect, said G residue of a reducing sugar is chosen from the residues of glucose, xylose and arabinose, and more particularly G represents the rest of the glucose.
  • the subject of the invention is a composition (d) as defined above, for which in formula (III), p represents an integer equal to 1 or equal 2.
  • said composition (Ci) consists of, for 100% by mass:
  • composition (C 2 ) consists of 100% of its mass:
  • composition (C A ) / compound of formula (III) is greater than or equal to 1/7 and less than or equal to 1/4.
  • composition (C A ) consists essentially of a mixture of compounds represented by formulas (II-i ), (II 2 ), (II 3 ), (N 4 ) and (II 5 ):
  • ai + a 2 + a 3 + a 4 + a 5 1 and the sum ai + 2a 2 + 3a 3 + 4a + 5a 5 is equal to x.
  • the subject of the invention is the composition (C 2 ) as defined above, for which in formula (II), x represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1, 05 and less than or equal to 3 and most preferably greater than or equal to 1, 15 and less than or equal to 2.5.
  • the subject of the invention is the composition (C 2 ) as defined above, characterized in that in formula (II), said residue G of a reducing sugar is chosen from the rest of glucose , xylose and arabinose, and x represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 3.0.
  • the subject of the invention is the composition (C 2 ) as defined above, for which in formulas (I) and (II), m is equal to 2.
  • the subject of the invention is the composition (C 2 ) as defined above, for which in formulas (I) and (II), m is equal to 3.
  • the subject of the invention is the composition (C 2 ) as defined above, for which in the formulas (I) and (II), m is equal to 4.
  • the subject of the invention is the composition (C 2 ) as defined above, for which, in formula (III), p is equal to 1 or 2, and most particularly equal to 1.
  • the subject of the invention is the composition (Ci) as defined above, for which, in formulas (I) and (II), m is equal to 2, in formula (II) the said remainder G represents the rest of the glucose, and x represents a decimal number of between 1.05 and 2.5 and, in the formula (III), p is equal to 1 or equal to 2 and more particularly equal to 1.
  • the subject of the invention is the composition (d) as defined above, for which, in formulas (I) and (II), m is equal to 3, in formula (II) the said remainder G represents the rest of the glucose, and x represents a decimal number of between 1.05 and 2.5 and, in the formula (III), p is equal to 1 or equal to 2 and more particularly equal to 1.
  • the subject of the invention is the composition (Ci) as defined above, for which, in formulas (I) and (II), m is equal to 4, in formula (II) the said remainder G represents the rest of the glucose, and x represents a decimal number between 1, 05 and 2.5 and, in formula (III), p is 1 or 2 and more particularly 1.
  • composition (Ci) which is the subject of the invention can be obtained by various routes:
  • a first synthetic route comprises introducing each of the constituents, composition (C A ), compound of formula (I), anhydride of said compound and compound of formula (III) into a reactor in a desired mass ratio, and stirring said mixture to an effective mechanical stirring, under temperature conditions to ensure its homogeneity, preferably between 20 ° C and 90 ° C.
  • a second route of synthesis of the composition (Ci) which is the subject of the invention consists in synthesizing, during a first step (a?), The composition (C A ), by dispersing a reducing sugar on a polyol of formula (I ), such as erythritol, xylitol or sorbitol, previously heated to a temperature above ( ⁇ ) of at least 5 ° C at its melting temperature in a reactor, according to the desired stoichiometric ratio, and to subject this mixture an acetalization reaction under predetermined temperature and partial vacuum conditions in the presence of an acidic catalyst system.
  • a polyol of formula (I ) such as erythritol, xylitol or sorbitol
  • the components of this acidic catalyst system will generally be selected from sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, nitric acid, hypophosphorous acid, methanesulfonic acid, para-toluene sulfonic acid, trifluoromethanesulfonic acid and acidic ion exchange resins.
  • the acetalization reaction will be carried out at a temperature (T 2 ) of 70 ° C to 130 ° C, under a vacuum of 300 to 20 10 2 Pa (300 to 20 mbar).
  • the temperature (Ti) is greater than or equal to 95 ° C. and less than or equal to 130 ° C. and more particularly greater than or equal to 95 ° C. and less than or equal to at 1 15 ° C while the temperature (T 2 ) is greater than or equal to 95 ° C and less than or equal to 130 ° C and more particularly greater than or equal to 105 ° C and less than or equal to 120 ° C.
  • the temperatures ( ⁇ ) and (T 2 ), which are identical or different, are greater than or equal to 120 ° C. and less than or equal to 135 ° C. and more particularly less than or equal to 130 ° C.
  • step (a?) of the process as defined above can be completed, if necessary or if desired, by subsequent neutralization operations, for example with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, and / or filtration, and / or discoloration, and / or removal of the residual polyol for example by selective extraction using a suitable solvent medium.
  • subsequent neutralization operations for example with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, and / or filtration, and / or discoloration, and / or removal of the residual polyol for example by selective extraction using a suitable solvent medium.
  • a compound of formula (III) or a mixture of compounds of formula (II I) is added to the product of the reaction obtained in step (a2), via a stirring system to achieve a homogeneous composition.
  • the anhydride of the compound of formula (I) is formed in step (a2) of the process as a by-product resulting from the dehydration of the polyol of formula (I) in acidic medium, resulting in the formation of cyclic derivatives of said polyol of formula (I).
  • a third step (c?) Consists in adding anhydride of the compound of formula (I), and continuing stirring until a homogeneous composition is obtained.
  • a third route of synthesis of the composition (Ci) which is the subject of the invention consists, during a first step (a 3 ), of preparing butyl glucoside by reaction between butanol and glucose in the presence of an acidic catalytic system. at a temperature between 90 ° C and 105 ° C, under partial vacuum, with concomitant removal of the water formed during the reaction; the acidic catalyst system used may be identical to that mentioned above for the second synthetic route.
  • a second step (b 3 ) the polyol of formula (I) is added to the reaction medium obtained at the end of step (a 3 ), with residual butanol, butanol formed during the trans-acetalization reaction, being removed by vacuum distillation, and water possibly generated during the intramolecular rearrangement of said polyol; and if necessary, a third step (c3) consists of adding anhydride of the compound of formula (I), and continuing stirring until a homogeneous composition is obtained.
  • a compound of formula (III) or a mixture of compounds of formula (II I) is added to the product of the reaction obtained in step (b 3 ) or with the product obtained after the third step (c3), by means of a stirring system to achieve a homogeneous composition.
  • compositions (Ci) as defined above can be incorporated into any type of composition for topical use (C), as defined above, cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical for topical use, or even in any type of support intended to be placed in contact with the skin (paper, wipe, textile, transdermal device, etc.).
  • composition for topical use (C), as defined above, in which are incorporated the compositions (C1) object of the present invention, and implemented in the short-term improvement process of the hydration state of the stratum corneum of the epidermis of human skin, object of the present invention, is in particular in the form of an aqueous or oily solution, an emulsion or a microemulsion of the water-in-oil type (E / H) or oil-in-water (O / W), water-in-oil-in-water (E / H / E) or oil-in-water-in-oil multiple emulsion (H / E / H), a gel, a soap or a syndet, a balm, a hydro-dispersion, a cream, a mousse, an aerosol or in the form anhydrous as a powder.
  • E / H water-in-oil type
  • O / W oil-in-water
  • H / E water-in-oil-
  • Said composition for topical use (C) can be used as a cream, as a milk, as a bubble bath, as a shampoo, as a conditioner or as a lotion for the care or for the protection of the face, hands and body, for example for its short-term moisturizing effect of the epidermis after prolonged exposure to low temperatures, after prolonged exposure to solar radiation; for its short-term moisturizing effect to prevent or slow the appearance of the external signs of aging of human skin, such as by the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines, an alteration of the microrelief, lack of elasticity and / or tone, lack of density and / or firmness of human skin; for its short-term moisturizing effect after shaving the face; for its short-term moisturizing effect when cleaning and / or treating the scalp.
  • compositions for topical use (C), used in the method that is the subject of the present invention also comprises excipients and / or active ingredients usually used in the field of topical formulations, in particular cosmetic formulations.
  • dermocosmetics pharmaceuticals or dermopharmaceuticals, such as foaming and / or detergent surfactants, thickening and / or gelling surfactants, thickening and / or gelling agents, stabilizing agents, film-forming compounds, solvents and co-solvents, hydrotropic agents, plasticizers, fats, oils and waxes, emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers, opacifying agents, pearlescent agents, superfatting agents, sequestering agents, chelating agents, antioxidants, perfumes , essential oils, preservatives, conditioning agents, bleaching agents intended for hair and skin discoloration, active principles intended to provide a treating and / or protective action with respect to the skin or hair, sunscreens, mineral fillers or pigments, particles giving a visual
  • foaming and / or detergent surfactants optionally present in the composition for topical use (C), used in the process according to the invention include anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-anionic foaming and / or detergent surfactants.
  • topically acceptable ionic agents usually used in this field of activity.
  • alkali metal salts alkali metal salts and the like.
  • foaming and / or detergent amphoteric surfactants that can be combined with the composition for topical use (C), implemented in the process according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl betaines, alkylamidobetaines, sultaines, alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, imidazoline derivatives, phosphobetaines, amphopolyacetates and amphopropionates.
  • foaming and / or detergent cationic surfactants which can be combined with the composition for topical use (C), used in the process according to the invention, mention may be made especially of quaternary ammonium derivatives.
  • foaming and / or detergent nonionic surfactants which can be combined with the composition for topical use (C), used in the process according to the invention, mention may be made more particularly of alkyl polyglycosides, Castor oil, polysorbates, coconut amides, N-alkylamines.
  • composition (C 3 ) or a mixture of compositions (C 3 ), said composition (C 3 ) being represented by formula (IV):
  • composition (C 3 ) consisting essentially of a mixture of compounds represented by the formulas (IV ⁇ ,), (IV 2 ), (IV 3 ), (IV 4 ) and (IV 5 ):
  • ai + a 2 + a 3 + a 4 + a 5 1 and the sum + 2a 2 + 3a 3 + 4a 4 + 5a 5 is equal to p.
  • thickening and / or gelling surfactants optionally present in the topical composition (C), used in the process according to the invention mention may be made of fatty esters of optionally alkoxylated alkyl polyglycosides, and especially the ethoxylated methylpolyglucoside esters such as PEG 120 methyl glucose trioleate or PEG 120 methyl glucose dioleate marketed respectively under the name GLUCAMATE TM LT and GLUMATE TM DOE120; alkoxylated fatty esters such as PEG 150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate sold under the name CROTHIX TM DS53, PEG 55 propylene glycol oleate sold under the name ANTIL TM 141; carbamates of polyalkylene glycols with fatty chains such as PPG 14 laureth isophoryl dicarbamate sold under the name ELFACOS TM T21 1, PPG 14 palmeth 60 hexyl dicarbamate
  • emulsifying surfactants that may be present in the composition for topical use (C), used in the process according to the invention, include nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants and cationic surfactants.
  • esters of fatty acids and of sorbitol for example MONTANE TM 80, MONTANE TM 85 and MONTANE TM 60; alkylpolyglycosides and alkylpolyglycoside and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohol compositions, the alkyl chain of said alkylpolyglycosides consisting of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl groups containing from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, for example MONTANOV TM, EASYNOV TM and FLUIDANOV TM; fatty acid and polyglycerol esters, for example ISOLAN TM GI34 and PLUROL TM DIISOSTEARIC; ethoxylated castor oil and ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil, SIMULSOL TM 989; compositions comprising esters of fatty acids and of sorbitol, for example MONTANE TM 80, MONTANE TM 85 and MONTANE
  • emulsifying anionic surfactants possibly present in the composition for topical use (C), implemented in the process according to the invention, mention may be made of decyl phosphate, cetyl phosphate sold under the name AMPHISOL TM, glyceryl stearate citrate; cetearyl sulphate; arachidyl / behenyl phosphates and arachidyl / behenyl alcohols sold under the name SENSANOV TM WR; soaps, for example sodium stearate or triethanolammonium stearate, N-acyl derivatives of salified amino acids, for example stearoyl glutamate.
  • AMPHISOL TM glyceryl stearate citrate
  • cetearyl sulphate arachidyl / behenyl phosphates and arachidyl / behenyl alcohols sold under the name SENSANOV TM WR
  • soaps for example sodium stearate or triethanol
  • cationic emulsifying surfactants that may be present in the composition for topical use (C), used in the process according to the invention, include aminoxides, quaternium TM 82 and the surfactants described in US Pat. international application published under the number WO 96/00719 and mainly those whose fatty chain comprises at least 16 carbon atoms.
  • Examples of opacifying and / or nacrating agents optionally present in the composition for topical use (C), used in the process according to the invention include sodium palmitate, sodium stearate, hydroxystearate, sodium, magnesium palmitate, magnesium stearate, magnesium hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate, polyethylene glycol monostearate, polyethylene glycol distearate, and fatty alcohols having 12 at 22 carbon atoms.
  • Examples of texturizing agents that may be present in the composition for topical use (C), used in the process according to the invention, include N-acyl derivatives of amino acids, for example lauroyl lysine marketed under the name AMINOHOPE TM LL, octenyl starch succinate sold under the name DRYFLO TM, myristyl polyglucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV TM 14, cellulose fibers, cotton fibers, chitosan fibers, talc, sericite, mica.
  • N-acyl derivatives of amino acids for example lauroyl lysine marketed under the name AMINOHOPE TM LL, octenyl starch succinate sold under the name DRYFLO TM, myristyl polyglucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV TM 14, cellulose fibers, cotton fibers, chitosan fibers, talc, sericite, mica.
  • solvents and cosolvents optionally present in the composition for topical use (C) used in the process according to the invention, mention may be made of water, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, water-soluble alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol, water mixtures and said solvents.
  • waxes examples include beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, wax of uricury, Japanese wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax; ozokerite; polyethylene wax; silicone waxes; vegetable waxes; fatty alcohols and solid fatty acids at room temperature; glycerides solid at room temperature.
  • waxes is meant in the present application the compounds and / or mixtures of compounds insoluble in water, having a solid appearance at a temperature greater than or equal to 45 ° C.
  • fatty substances that may be present in the composition for topical use (C), used in the process according to the invention, include saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols, linear or branched, containing from 8 to 36 carbon atoms. , or saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, linear or branched, having from 8 to 36 carbon atoms.
  • thickening agents and / or gelling agents that can be combined with the composition for topical use (C), used in the process according to the invention include polyelectrolytes, linear or branched polymers or crosslinked, such as homopolymer of partially or totally salified acrylic acid, homopolymer of partially or totally salified methacrylic acid, homopolymer of 2-methyl-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl) ) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS) partially or totally salified, copolymers of acrylic acid and AMPS, copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and AMPS , copolymers of AMPS and (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, copolymers of AMPS and methacrylate of (2- hydroxyethyl), copolymers of AMPS and hydroxyethylacrylamide, copolymers of AMPS and ⁇ , ⁇ -dimethyl acryl
  • R7 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • R8 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from eight to thirty carbon atoms and z represents a number greater than or equal to one and less than or equal to fifty.
  • the polyelectrolytic polymers, linear or branched or crosslinked that can be associated with the composition for topical use (C), implemented in the process according to the invention, can be in the form of a solution, d an aqueous suspension, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a powder.
  • the polyelectrolytic polymers, linear or branched or crosslinked that can be associated with the composition for topical use (C), implemented in the process according to the invention, can be selected from the products marketed under the names SIMULGEL TM EG, SIMULGEL TM EPG, SEPIGEL TM 305, SIMULGEL TM 600, SIMULGEL TM NS, SIMULGEL TM INS 100, SIMULGEL TM FL, SIMULGEL TM A, SIMULGEL TM SMS 88, SEPINOV TM EMT 10, SEPIPLUS TM 400, SEPIPLUS TM 265, SEPIPLUS TM S, SEPIMAX TM Zen, ARISTOFLEX TM AVC, ARISTOFLEX TM AVS, NOVEMER TM EC-1, NOVEMER TM EC 2, ARISTOFLEX TM HMB, COSMEDIA TM SP, FLOCARE TM AND 25, FLOCARE TM AND 75, FLOCARE TM AND 26, FLO
  • dares such as glucans or homopolymers of glucose, glucomannoglucans, xyloglycans, galactomannans whose degree of substitution (DS) of D-galactose units on the main D-mannose chain is between 0 and 1,
  • compositions (C) for topical use which can be implemented in a short-term improvement process of the hydration state of the stratum corneum of the epidermis of human skin
  • polysaccharides consisting of oste derivatives, such as sulphated galactans and more particularly carrageenans and agar, uronans and more particularly alginines, alginates and pectins, heteropolymers osteos and uronic acids and more particularly xanthan gum, gellan gum, exudates of arabic gum and karaya gum, glucosaminoglycans.
  • thickening agents and / or gelling agents that can be combined with the composition for topical use (C), implemented in the process according to the invention include cellulose, cellulose derivatives such as methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, silicates, starch, hydrophilic derivatives of starch, polyurethanes.
  • stabilizing agents which can be combined with the composition for topical use (C), used in the process according to the invention include microcrystalline waxes, and more particularly ozokerite, mineral salts. such as sodium chloride or magnesium chloride, silicone polymers such as polysiloxane polyalkyl polyether copolymers.
  • thermal or mineral waters that can be combined with the composition for topical use (C), used in the process according to the invention, include thermal or mineral waters having mineralization of at least 300 mg / l, in particular Avene water, Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, water water of Enghien-les-Bains, the water of Saint-Gervais-les baths, Neris-les-Bains water, Allevard-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizieres water, Neyrac-les-bains water, Lons water the Saunier, the Rochefort water, the water of Saint Christau, the water of the Fumades and the water of Tercis-les-bains.
  • hydrotropic agents that can be combined with the composition for topical use (C), used in the process according to the invention, mention may be made of xylene sulphonates, cumene sulphonates, hexyl polyglucoside, 2 -ethylhexylpolyglucoside, n-heptylpolyglucoside.
  • deodorant agents that can be combined with the composition for topical use (C), used in the process according to the invention, mention may be made of alkali silicates, zinc salts, such as zinc sulphate, zinc gluconate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate; quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts; glycerol derivatives such as glycerol caprate, glycerol caprylate, polyglycerol caprate; the 1, 2 decanediol; 1,3 propanediol; salicylic acid; sodium bicarbonate; cyclodextrins; metallic zeolites; TRICLOSAN TM; aluminum bromohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrates, aluminum chloride, aluminum sulphate, aluminum and zirconium hydrochlorides, aluminum and zirconium trihydrochloride, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate , aluminum and zirconium pentachlor
  • sunscreens that can be combined with the composition for topical use (C), used in the process according to the invention, mention may be made of all those contained in the cosmetic directive 76/768 / EEC modified Annex VII .
  • the family of benzoic acid derivatives such as para-aminobenzoic acids.
  • PABA para-aminobenzoic acids.
  • the monoglycerol esters of PABA the ethyl esters of ⁇ , ⁇ -propoxy PABA, the ethyl esters of ⁇ , ⁇ -diethoxy PABA, the ethyl esters of ⁇ , ⁇ -dimethyl PABA, the methyl esters of ⁇ ⁇ -dimethyl PABA, butyl esters of ⁇ , ⁇ -dimethyl PABA
  • family of anthranilic acid derivatives such as homomenthyl-N-acetyl anthranilate
  • family salicylic acid derivatives such as amyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate,
  • inorganic screens that can be associated with the composition for topical use (C), implemented in the process according to the invention include titanium oxides, oxides zinc, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, iron oxides yellow, red or black, chromium oxides. These inorganic screens may or may not be micronized, have undergone or not surface treatments and may be presented in the form of aqueous or oily pre-dispersions.
  • vitamins and their derivatives especially their esters, such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (retinyl palmitate for example), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its esters, ascorbic acid sugar derivatives (as ascorbyl glucoside), tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopherol acetate), vitamins B3 or B10 (niacinamide and its derivatives); compounds showing a lightening or depigmenting action on the skin, such as ⁇ -undecelynoyl phenylalanine marketed under the name SEPIWHITE TM MSH, SEPICALM TM VG, the mono ester and / or the glycerol diester of ⁇ -undecelynoyl phenylalanine, the ⁇ - undecelynoyl dipeptides, ar
  • antioxidants that can be combined with the composition for topical use (C), used in the process according to the invention, mention may be made of EDTA and its salts, citric acid, tartaric acid, oxalic acid, BHA (butylhydroxyanisole), BHT (butylhydroxytoluene), tocopherol derivatives such as tocopherol acetate, mixtures of antioxidant compounds such as DISSOLVINE TM GL 47S marketed by Akzo Nobel under the name INCI: Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate.
  • the subject of the invention is also a composition (Ci) as defined above, for its use in a therapeutic treatment intended to reduce and / or eliminate and / or prevent cracks and / or scabs and / or crevices and / or atopic dermatitis and / or ichthyosis and / or dry states of the skin or mucous membranes, accompanying cutaneous and / or mucosal pathologies such as eczema.
  • composition (Ci) for use in a therapeutic treatment as defined above may be associated with pharmaceutical active ingredients, in particular dermatological active ingredients.
  • the reaction medium is placed under a partial vacuum of 90 ⁇ 10 2 Pa (90 mbar) at 45 ⁇ 10 2 Pa (45 mbar) and maintained at a temperature of 100 ° C. to 105 ° C. for a period of 4 hours 30 minutes with evacuation of the water. formed by means of a distillation assembly.
  • the reaction medium is then cooled to 95 ° C.-100 ° C. and neutralized by adding 5 g of 30% sodium hydroxide to bring the pH of a 1% solution of this mixture to a value of 5.0.
  • composition (C 2 A) which is analyzed to determine the mass content of the various compounds constituting it, by means of a gas chromatograph, equipped with a metal column HT-SIMDIST TM CB (PE Chropack TM ) 10 m ⁇ 0.53 mm ID-film thickness at 0.5 ⁇ , with helium as carrier gas, and equipped with a FI-type detector D.
  • the composition (C 2 A) thus comprises for 100% of its mass:
  • Residual glucose less than 0, 1% by mass
  • composition (C 2 A) obtained above 15.0 gram of the composition (C 2 A) obtained above and 30 grams of glycerol are mixed at a temperature of 45 ° C in a jacketed glass reactor, in which circulates a heat transfer fluid, and provided with stirring effective. After obtaining a homogeneous mixture, a composition (Ci A ) is obtained which comprises for 100% of its mass:
  • the mass ratio xylityl glucosides / glycerol is equal to 0.219.
  • composition (E 4 ) comprising the composition (Ci A ) a composition according to the invention while the compositions (Ei), (E 2 ) and (E 3 ) represent the state of the art.
  • Phase B The various components of the fatty phase (Phase B), previously melted separately, are poured into a beaker at a temperature of 80 ° C. and the mixture of the fatty phases is maintained under mechanical stirring, equipped with a mobile of the following type "Pale” at a speed of 100 rpm at a temperature of 80 ° C for 30 minutes,
  • the SEPIPLUS TM 400 thickening polymer (Phase C) is then gradually added to the mixture of fatty phases at a temperature of 80 ° C .;
  • the medium is then cooled to a temperature of 60 ° C., and then the water (Phase A) and the moisturizing active agent (Phase D) are then gradually added;
  • the mixture obtained is then stirred using a brand homogenizer.
  • Sensiva TM PA40 (B) 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% 0.5%
  • MONTANOV TM 202 (arachydilic alcohol, behenic alcohol and arachidyl glucoside); self-emulsifiable composition such as those described in EP 0 977 626,
  • SEPI PLUS TM 400 Self-invertible inverse latex of polyacrylates in polyisobutene and having polysorbate 20, as described in WO2005 / 040230;
  • EUXYL TM PE 9010 (INCI name: Phenoxyethanol (and) ethylhexylglycerin)
  • compositions (Ei), (E 2 ), (E 3 ) and (E 4 ) are then evaluated as follows:
  • a composition tested will be considered as making it possible to improve in the short term the state of hydration of the stratum corneum of the epidermis of human skin if, for said composition, we observe: An increase in the level of hydration of the stratum corneum of the epidermis of human skin, measured and observed within a time interval of between three hours and eight hours after the application of said test composition on the surface of said stratum corneum, which is superior or equal to 40% relative to the level of hydration measured and found before the application of said test composition, and
  • the skin hydration rate is determined by the evaluation of the electrical properties of the skin, such as impedance, resistance and capacitance, as these dielectric parameters measured on the surface of the skin vary with the amount of water contained in the stratum corneum.
  • the principle retained and used in the context of the present patent application is based on the measurement of the variation of the dielectric capacitance of the surface of the skin. Indeed, like any material or any biological matrix, the stratum corneum can be characterized by its average value of capacitance; this dielectric property varies with the amount of water it contains.
  • the cutaneous hydration rate is measured using the model CM825 TM Cornéo materials, marketed by Courage & Khasaka, equipped with a sensor consisting of two metal electrodes.
  • the corneometer When the corneometer is electrically powered, it allows to apply an electric field through the stratum corneum and to measure the capacitance corresponding to the state of the skin on which the electric field has been applied.
  • the study of the moisturizing effect of the compositions to be tested was carried out on a group of twenty-five volunteers, according to measurement kinetics before the application of the compositions (t0), after a period of three hours following the application of the composition to be tested on the skin (t3h), and after a period of eight hours following the application of the composition to be tested on the skin (t8h).
  • the characteristics of the group of volunteers are: - women aged 22 to 50,
  • composition (E 2 ) An area treated with the composition (E 2 ) comprising 1.5% by mass of composition
  • composition (E 3 ) comprising 3% by weight of glycerine
  • composition (E 4 ) An area treated with the composition (E 4 ) comprising 4.5% by weight of composition
  • compositions to be tested are applied by a technician to the cutaneous zones previously defined at the rate of 2 mg / cm 2 for each product.
  • the hydration rate of the skin zone is measured, using the CM825 TM Cornéo reports, three hours and eight hours after the application of each composition.
  • the values measured with the Cornetometer at each measurement time are recorded.
  • the untreated control area is also measured, to take into account the natural variations of the skin and the impact of the variations of the environmental conditions on the measurements.
  • the effect of a composition tested is a variation measured on the treated zone concerned, corrected by the variation observed in the same time interval on the untreated zone, and expressed as a percentage increase ( ⁇ ) relative to the starting value measured at time t 0 , corresponding to the value measured before the application of the product to be tested.
  • T (t x ) the average value of the hydration rate, expressed in arbitrary units (ua), measured at the time t x (x hours after the application of the test composition), on the treated zone
  • T (t 0 ) The average value of the hydration rate, expressed in arbitrary units (ua), measured at time t 0 (before the application of the composition to be tested), on the treated zone (initial basal value).
  • NT (t x ) The average value of the hydration rate, expressed in arbitrary units (ua), measured at time t x on the untreated zone.
  • NT (t 0 ) The average value of the hydration rate, expressed in arbitrary units (ua), measured at time t 0 on the untreated zone (initial basal value);
  • the composition (E 4 ) has the best short-term moisturizing properties, as defined above, among the compositions tested.
  • IPE Insensitive Water Loss
  • the insensitive water loss is measured from the apparatus marketed under the trademark Vapometer Delfin TM SWL4436.
  • the study of the effect on the insensitive loss in water of the compositions to be tested was carried out on a group of 10 volunteers, according to measurement kinetics before the application of the compositions (t 0 ), after a duration t x of 30 minutes following the application of the composition to be tested on the skin.
  • the characteristics of the group of volunteers are:
  • composition (E 2 ) An area treated with the composition (E 2 ) comprising 1.5% by mass of composition
  • compositions to be tested are applied by a technician to the cutaneous zones previously defined at the rate of 2 mg / cm 2 for each product.
  • a decrease in water insensitive loss indicates a reduction in the evaporation of water from the skin surface, thus defining an occlusive effect, undesired for normal skin.
  • the values measured with the vapometer at each measurement time are recorded.
  • the untreated control zone is measured, to take into account the natural variations of the skin and the impact of the variations of the environmental conditions on the measurements.
  • composition tested is a variation measured on the treated zone concerned, corrected by the variation observed in the same time interval over the untreated zone, and expressed as a percentage of variation ( ⁇ ') with respect to the starting value measured at time t 0 , corresponding to the value measured before the application of the product to be tested.
  • T '(t 30 ) The average value of the water-insensitive loss (expressed in g / m 2 / h), measured thirty minutes after the application of the composition to be tested on the treated zone;
  • T '(t 0 ) The average value of the insensitive water loss (expressed in g / m 2 / h), measured at t 0 on the treated area (initial basal value);
  • NT '(t 3 o) The average value of the water-insensitive loss (expressed in g / m 2 / h) measured thirty minutes after the application of the composition to be tested;
  • NT '(to) The average value of the insensitive water loss (expressed in g / m 2 / h) measured at t 0 on the untreated zone (initial basal value); The weighted variation percentage of the insensitive loss in water is thus calculated ( ⁇ '):
  • ⁇ ' 100 x ⁇ [T' (t 30 ) - T '(to)] - [NT' (t 30 ) - NT '(to)] ⁇ / [T' (t 0 ) + [NT '(t 30 ) - NT '(t 0 )]
  • the results obtained show that the insensitive loss in weighted water is -8% for the composition (E 4 ), against-6% for the composition (E 2 ), against -17%. % for the composition (E 3 ) and therefore a marked occlusive effect when the skin is treated with this composition (E 3 ), which comprises 3% by weight of glycerol as a moisturizing agent.
  • compositions (E 1, (E 2 ), (E 3 ) and (E 4 ) show that the composition (E 4 ), comprising a composition (Ci A ), makes it possible to improve the state of hydration. short-term stratum corneum of the epidermis of human skin.
  • composition (E ⁇ and to compositions (E 3) and (E 2), respectively comprising glycerine and the composition (C 2A) clearly demonstrates that the improvement state of short-term hydration of the stratum comeum of the epidermis of human skin, obtained by the implementation of composition (E 4 ) based on composition (Ci A ) according to the invention, could not be deduced from the associated results compositions of the state of the art.
  • Procedure Mix the various ingredients in water with magnetic stirring in the order indicated, and adjust the pH to around 7.
  • Procedure mix all the ingredients of phase A and, after homogenization, add MONTALINE TM C40 and adjust the pH to about 6.0 using lactic acid.
  • AMISOFT TM CS-1 1 4.00% Perfume / Fragrance 0, 10%
  • Procedure Heat separately the phases A and B formed by mixing the various constituents. Add phase C to the hot fatty phase and make the emulsion by pouring the aqueous phase; homogenize for a few minutes with vigorous stirring (via a rotor / stator turbine). Then add the phase D in the hot emulsion and cool the emulsion with moderate stirring until it returns to room temperature. Add phase E at 40 ° C.
  • Prepare phase C by adding SEPINOV TM EMT10 to the mixture of water and glycerol and homogenize using a mixer equipped with a rotor-sator system at a rotation speed of 4000 rpm for 4 minutes. minutes.
  • SEPICALM TM S Mixture of N-cocoyl amino acids, sarcosine, potassium aspartate and magnesium aspartate as described in WO 98/09611.
  • PROTEOL TM APL Mixture of sodium salts of N-cocoyl amino acids, obtained by acylation of the amino acids characteristic of apple juice;
  • SEPICIDE TM HB A mixture of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben, is a preservative.
  • CAPIGEL TM 98 Copolymer of acrylates
  • SEPICIDE TM CI Imidazoline urea, is a preservative
  • SEPICIDE TM HB Mixture of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben and isobutylparaben, is a preservative;
  • SEPICALM TM VG Mixture of N-palmitoyl proline in the form of sodium salt and Alba Nymphea flower extract;
  • EUXYL TM PE9010 Mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethyl hexyl glycerine;
  • PROTEOL TM OAT Mixture of N-lauryl amino acids obtained by total hydrolysis of oat protein as described in WO 94/26694;
  • AMISOFT TM CS-1 1 Sodium salt of N-cocoyl glutamate
  • SIMULSOL TM 165 Mixture of PEG-100 Stearate and Glycerol Stearate; MONTANOV TM 202 (arachydilic alcohol, behenic alcohol and arachidyl glucoside), is a self-emulsifiable composition such as those described in EP 0 977 626;
  • SEPIPLUS TM 400 Self-invertible inverse latex of polyacrylates in polyisobutene and comprising polysorbate 20, as described in WO2005 / 040230;
  • LIPACIDE TM C8G Capryloyl glycine marketed by the company SEPPIC;
  • MICROPEARL TM M310 Cross-linked polymethylmethacrylate polymer in powder form and used as a texture modifier
  • SEPIMAX TM Zen (INCI name: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6): Thickening polymer in the form of a powder;
  • SEPIPLUS TM S (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Polyisobutene & PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Cononut Ether): Self-Invertible Reverse Latex;
  • AMONYL TM 265 BA (INCI name: Cocobetaine): foaming amphoteric surfactant;
  • SEPINOV TM EMT10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer): Copolymer thickener in the form of a powder;
  • EASYNOV TM (INCI name: Octyldodecanol and Octyldodecyl Xyloside and PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate): Emulsifying agent with a lipophilic tendency;
  • SEPIMAT TM H10 FW (INCI name: Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer and Squalane): The polymer used as a texturizing agent;
  • SEPITONIC TM M3 (INCI name: Aspartate and Zinc Gluconate and Copper Gluconate Magnesium): A mixture used as an antiradical and energizing agent for cells;
  • MONTANOV TM L (INCI name: C14-22 Alcohols and C12-20 Alkylglucoside): Emulsifying agent;
  • MONTANOV TM 82 (INCI name: Cetearyl Alcohol and Coco-glucoside): Emulsifying agent;
  • SIMULGEL TM INS100 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloylimethyl Taurate Copolymer and isohexadecane and Polysorbate 60): Polymeric thickening agent;

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EP17725693.0A 2016-05-04 2017-04-28 Verfahren zur kurzfristigen verbesserung des feuchthaltungszustands der epidermis der menschlichen haut, neuartige feuchthaltungszusammensetzungen Pending EP3452007A1 (de)

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FR1654060A FR3050935B1 (fr) 2016-05-04 2016-05-04 Procede pour ameliorer a court terme l'etat d'hydratation de l'epiderme de la peau humaine ; nouvelles compositions hydratantes
PCT/FR2017/051022 WO2017191394A1 (fr) 2016-05-04 2017-04-28 Procédé pour améliorer à court terme l'état d'hydratation de l'épiderme de la peau humaine; nouvelles compositions hydratantes

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FR3074686B1 (fr) * 2017-12-12 2019-11-15 Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Seppic Nouveaux glyceryl polyrhamnosides, procede pour leur preparation et composition cosmetiques et/ou pharmaceutiques en comprenant
CN109431910B (zh) * 2018-12-27 2021-08-31 湖南御家化妆品制造有限公司 皮肤屏障修复组合物及其应用
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FR2839447B1 (fr) * 2002-05-07 2007-05-04 Seppic Sa Nouvelles compositions a usage cutane a base de polyols-glycosides
KR100638054B1 (ko) * 2005-05-11 2006-10-24 주식회사 코리아나화장품 자일리틸폴리글루코사이드, 자일리탄 및 자일리톨 혼합물을유효성분으로 함유하는 피부 보습용 화장료 조성물
FR2899099A1 (fr) * 2006-03-31 2007-10-05 Seppic Sa Nouveau concentre tensioactif issu d'alkyl polyglycosides, et son utilisation pour preparer sans chauffage, des formulations cosmetiques et/ou pharmaceitiques
CN101948491B (zh) * 2010-09-17 2012-06-06 华宝食用香精香料(上海)有限公司 一种多元醇葡萄糖苷的制备方法
FR3003861B1 (fr) * 2013-03-26 2015-09-04 Seppic Sa Nouveau procede de preparation de polyols-glycosides

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US20190151211A1 (en) 2019-05-23
JP2019514954A (ja) 2019-06-06
KR20190005174A (ko) 2019-01-15
WO2017191394A1 (fr) 2017-11-09
JP7445383B2 (ja) 2024-03-07
FR3050935B1 (fr) 2019-04-12
US10821060B2 (en) 2020-11-03
CN109069377A (zh) 2018-12-21
KR102331667B1 (ko) 2021-11-25
FR3050935A1 (fr) 2017-11-10

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