EP3418068A1 - Bijou et outil ainsi que procédé de fabrication de bijou - Google Patents

Bijou et outil ainsi que procédé de fabrication de bijou Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3418068A1
EP3418068A1 EP18172563.1A EP18172563A EP3418068A1 EP 3418068 A1 EP3418068 A1 EP 3418068A1 EP 18172563 A EP18172563 A EP 18172563A EP 3418068 A1 EP3418068 A1 EP 3418068A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
optical elements
piece
angle
optical
openings
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP18172563.1A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP3418068B1 (fr
Inventor
Lukas Grewenig
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Publication of EP3418068A1 publication Critical patent/EP3418068A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3418068B1 publication Critical patent/EP3418068B1/fr
Active legal-status Critical Current
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A44C17/043—Setting-tools
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C15/00—Other forms of jewellery
    • A44C15/004—Jewellery with monograms or other inscription
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C9/00—Finger-rings
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B44—DECORATIVE ARTS
    • B44B—MACHINES, APPARATUS OR TOOLS FOR ARTISTIC WORK, e.g. FOR SCULPTURING, GUILLOCHING, CARVING, BRANDING, INLAYING
    • B44B11/00—Artists' hand tools for sculpturing, kneading, carving, engraving, guilloching or embossing; Accessories therefor
    • B44B11/04—Artists' hand tools for sculpturing, kneading, carving, engraving, guilloching or embossing; Accessories therefor for embossing
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B44—DECORATIVE ARTS
    • B44C—PRODUCING DECORATIVE EFFECTS; MOSAICS; TARSIA WORK; PAPERHANGING
    • B44C1/00—Processes, not specifically provided for elsewhere, for producing decorative surface effects
    • B44C1/24—Pressing or stamping ornamental designs on surfaces
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B44—DECORATIVE ARTS
    • B44F—SPECIAL DESIGNS OR PICTURES
    • B44F1/00—Designs or pictures characterised by special or unusual light effects
    • B44F1/02—Designs or pictures characterised by special or unusual light effects produced by reflected light, e.g. matt surfaces, lustrous surfaces
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C25/00—Miscellaneous fancy ware for personal wear, e.g. pendants, crosses, crucifixes, charms
    • A44C25/005—Crosses or crucifixes

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a piece of jewelry made of a precious metal or gemstone material according to the preamble of claim 1 and a tool and a method for producing the piece of jewelry.
  • the piece of jewelry can in this case in particular be made of a gold, silver or platinum alloy or of gemstones, semiprecious stones or artificial stones.
  • the piece of jewelry on a visible surface, such as in particular a molded, turned and / or optionally reworked precious metal surface or a ground facet, wherein on the surface a plurality of first optical elements is provided, which serve to generate light effects.
  • the light effects can be formed for example by reflection or dispersion of incident light.
  • EP 0648445 A1 describes an arrangement of a plurality of optical elements in the form of grooves on the surface of gemstones.
  • the optical elements serve to increase the optical properties of the gem by dispersion of the incident light.
  • DE 69814926 T2 describes a possible construction of a retroreflective article for the vehicle sector with improved signal effect.
  • the article has two surfaces arranged on top of one another with different optical properties, the lower surface having retroreflective areas and, to this end, optically different separation areas.
  • EP 0659590 A1 describes a method for introducing, for example decorative structuring of metal surfaces.
  • the structuring is impressed into a surface by means of its preformed plastic film.
  • the object of the invention is to avoid the disadvantages mentioned in a piece of jewelry and to produce more intense and individual optical effects.
  • the first optical elements each have an array of reflection surfaces, which are embedded in the surface of the precious metal or gemstone material, wherein by means of the arrangement, a retroreflection can be generated.
  • particularly intensive light effects can be generated by means of the retroreflective effect of the individual reflection surface arrangements.
  • intense light effects can be achieved especially on jewelry pieces of precious metal and the facets of cut gemstones, which convey a particularly high value.
  • the light effects can achieve an individual optical effect by appropriate arrangement of the optical elements in certain areas of the surface.
  • first optical elements in addition to the retroreflective first optical elements additionally second optical elements embedded in the surface of the precious metal or gemstone material, which produce a relation to the first optical elements different optical effect.
  • second optical elements embedded in the surface of the precious metal or gemstone material, which produce a relation to the first optical elements different optical effect.
  • the first optical elements and the second optical elements in each case at least partially form a grid extending over the surface.
  • a uniform distribution of the optical elements of the surface is achieved, whereby in the also a uniformly distributed optical effect of the light effects can be guaranteed.
  • the second optical elements have a different reflection range from the first optical elements.
  • the second optical elements may also be formed such that they do not produce retroreflection. As a result, a clear delineation of the areas in which certain light effects are generated by retroreflection of other areas possible.
  • a graphic object can be generated by the contrast of the optically differently acting first optical elements with respect to the second optical elements, such as a symbol, a sign, a brand or an ornament.
  • first optical elements such as a symbol, a sign, a brand or an ornament.
  • the graphical object can be perceived or not depending on a light incidence.
  • the first optical elements define first openings and the second optical elements define second openings on the surface, wherein the first openings and the second openings have a matching geometry and size.
  • These matching openings allow, despite the different optical effect of the first and second optical elements a harmonious, uniform incorporation of the screening in the surface. In this way, a high-quality effect of the piece of jewelry can be maintained.
  • first openings and the second openings are hexagonal, whereby the optical elements can be embedded in the surface with particularly small distances.
  • the reflective surface arrangement of the first optical elements in each case six first facet surfaces, each of which two adjacent facet surfaces at an opening edge around a major axis of the first optical element around a circumferential angle of 60 °.
  • the six first facet surfaces preferably have three first main facets arranged at a circumferential angle of 120 ° to each other, each enclosing an angle between 53.7 ° and 55.7 ° with a normal plane perpendicular to the main axis of the respective first optical element.
  • This geometry of the recessed surface arrangement of the first optical elements embedded in the surface achieves a retroreflective effect over a relatively large reflection area.
  • the six first facet surfaces between the first main facets have three first secondary facets, which in each case enclose an angle between five and 15 ° with the normal plane.
  • the reflective surface arrangement of the second optical elements also has six second facet surfaces, of which two adjacent facet surfaces at the opening edge around the main axis of the second optical element enclose a circumferential angle of 60 °.
  • the six second facet surfaces also preferably have three second main facets which are at a circumferential angle of 120 ° to one another and which enclose an angle between 48 ° and 52 ° with the normal plane.
  • the second optical elements on the surface have a shape that largely coincides with the first optical elements, so that the surface can be formed uniformly over the extension of all the optical elements, thereby achieving a high-quality effect.
  • the second optical elements have a different reflection range than the first optical elements, so that a different optical effect can be achieved on the surface in the regions of the first optical elements as a function of the respective light incidence than in regions of the second optical elements.
  • the six second facet surfaces between the second main facets have three second secondary facets, which in each case enclose an angle between 53.7 ° and 55.7 ° with the normal plane. In this way, the retroreflective effect of the second optical elements can be enhanced.
  • the above object is achieved with a tool for producing a piece of jewelry in one of the above-mentioned embodiments, wherein the tool has a forming tip whose surface geometry is formed complementary to the arrangement of the reflecting surfaces of the optical element to be produced and as a press-in or impact point for cold working the surface is formed.
  • the optical elements can thus be easily and accurately embedded in the surface of a piece of jewelry to be processed.
  • the mold tip is held on a shaft which has a force transmission end facing away from the mold tip.
  • the tool can be used in the manner of a punching iron or a machine tool, which is acted upon at the power transmission end by a hammer or by the tool holder of a machine with a force to the predetermined by the shaping tip arrangement of the reflection surfaces in the surface of the piece of jewelry Beat or press in or to incorporate Puntipp.
  • the mold tip is made here of tungsten carbide or diamond to ensure a hardness that allows multiple incorporation of the reflective surface array of each manufactured optical element in precious metal material or in gemstones using the same shape tip.
  • the above-mentioned object is protected by a method for producing a piece of jewelry in one of the abovementioned embodiments, in which the visible surface is produced in a first step, in particular by molding, turning, grinding and / or other surface treatment.
  • a second step a plurality of first optical elements, each with a retroreflecting arrangement of reflection surfaces, are then incorporated into the surface by cold-working machining of the surface.
  • This also makes it possible subsequently to produce the desired light effects by incorporation of the optical elements on the surface of a piece of jewelry. It is advantageous if, in the second or a subsequent step adjacent to the first optical elements, the second optical elements are additionally incorporated by cold-working machining of the surface. As a result, the effects that can be generated by the second optical elements can also be subsequently provided on a piece of jewelry.
  • the incorporation of the first optical elements and / or the second optical elements takes place by means of at least one computer-controlled cold-forming tool, whereby a particularly precise incorporation of the individual optical elements is possible.
  • the optical elements are arranged in the form of a grid on the surface in order to produce a uniform surface structure.
  • Fig. 1 shows a portion of a piece of jewelry 2, which is exemplified by a jewelry ring, such as a finger ring or a bracelet.
  • the jewel 2 is made of a precious metal material, such as in particular a gold or silver alloy, and forms a visible surface 4.
  • the jewel 2 could also have any other known shape or be formed by a gem, in which the visible surface. 4 for example, is formed by a ground facet.
  • FIG. 1 it can be seen in the surface 4, a plurality of first optical elements 6 and second optical elements eighth incorporated, which extend in the form of a grid 10 over part of the surface 4.
  • both the first optical elements 6 and the second optical elements 8 in each case an array of reflective surfaces 12, 20 which are embedded in the surface 4.
  • the first optical elements 6 according to the in FIG. 2 represented element, thereby form in the surface 4 each have a hexagonal first opening 14, from the opening edge 16, six first facet surfaces 18 extend into the precious metal material of the piece of jewelry 2 into it. These facet surfaces 18 are thereby incorporated into the noble metal material around a major axis A of the first optical element 6 in such a way that two adjacent facet surfaces 18 at the opening edge 16 enclose a circulation angle U of approximately 60 °.
  • the first facet surfaces 18 have three first main facets 18 A, which are at a circumferential angle UH of 120 ° to each other, wherein between each two main facets 18 A one of three first auxiliary facets 18 B is arranged.
  • the first main facets 18 A in each case enclose an angle WH1 of between 53.7 and 55.7 ° with a normal plane E perpendicular to the main axis A.
  • the first auxiliary facets 18 B with the normal plane E enclose an angle WN1 between 5 ° and 15 °.
  • the first optical elements 6 have a retroreflective function, in which a light L whose light incidence angle LW lies in a predetermined reflection range with respect to the surface 4 is directly reflected back to the light source. In this way, by means of the first optical elements 6 special light effects, such as in particular an intense sparkle, are generated.
  • the second reflecting surface arrangement 20 of the second optical elements 8 according to the in FIG. 3 represented element, in the surface 4 also forms in each case a hexagonal second opening 22, of the opening edge 24th six second facet surfaces 26 extend into the noble metal material of the jewel 2.
  • These facet surfaces 26 are also incorporated around a main axis A of the second optical element 8 around in the noble metal material, so that each two adjacent facet surfaces 26 at the opening edge 24 enclose a circulation angle U of about 60 °.
  • the second facet surfaces 26 have three second main facets 26 A, which are at a circumferential angle UH of 120 ° to each other, wherein between two main facets 26 A one of three second Maufacetten 26 B is arranged.
  • the second main facets 26 A in each case enclose an angle WH2 between 48 and 52 ° with the normal plane E spanned perpendicular to the main axis A.
  • the second auxiliary facets 26 B with the normal plane E enclose an angle WN 2 between 53.7 ° and 55.7 °.
  • the second optical elements 8 have a reflection property which differs from the first optical elements 6.
  • the retroreflective effect is generated in a different reflection range, so that depending on the angle of incidence LW on the surface 4, either the first optical elements 6 or the second optical elements can produce a retroreflective effect.
  • the graphic object G which is in Fig. 1 exemplified as a cross, this may be formed for example by at least one ornament, a symbol, a brand or any other characters or characters.
  • the first optical elements 6 and their reflection surface arrangement 12 by cold working.
  • a tool 30 according to Fig. 4 used with a shaping tip 32 whose surface geometry is formed complementary to the reflective surface arrangement 12 of the first optical element 6.
  • the shaping tip 32 which is preferably made of tungsten carbide or diamond, is held on a shaft 34 which has a force application end 36 facing away from the molding tip 32.
  • the tool 30 can be acted upon by means of a tool holder 38 of a controlled machine 40 via a computer 42 with a force to repatriate the mold tip 32 recurring in the surface 4.
  • the incorporation of the grid 10 of the first optical elements 4 in the surface 4 can be made very precisely.
  • the incorporation also takes place with a second tool 44, according to FIG. 5 which has a matching construction with the first tool 30, except for a second shaping tip 46 adapted to the geometry of the second reflecting surface arrangement 20 of the second optical elements 6. Also, this second tool 44 can be used as shown by means of the computer-controlled machine 42 or manually.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)
EP18172563.1A 2017-06-22 2018-05-16 Bijou et outil ainsi que procédé de fabrication de bijou Active EP3418068B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE202017103704.5U DE202017103704U1 (de) 2017-06-22 2017-06-22 Schmuckstück und Werkzeug zur Herstellung des Schmuckstücks

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3418068A1 true EP3418068A1 (fr) 2018-12-26
EP3418068B1 EP3418068B1 (fr) 2020-02-19

Family

ID=59701014

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP18172563.1A Active EP3418068B1 (fr) 2017-06-22 2018-05-16 Bijou et outil ainsi que procédé de fabrication de bijou

Country Status (2)

Country Link
EP (1) EP3418068B1 (fr)
DE (1) DE202017103704U1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102018120813B4 (de) * 2018-08-27 2020-03-05 Meissner Ag Modell- Und Werkzeugfabrik Computergestütztes Verfahren für die Punzierung einer Oberfläche eines Werkstücks sowie eine entsprechende Vorrichtung

Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0648445A1 (fr) * 1993-10-13 1995-04-19 Yamato Kako Kabushiki Kaisha Ornement

Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0648445A1 (fr) * 1993-10-13 1995-04-19 Yamato Kako Kabushiki Kaisha Ornement

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE202017103704U1 (de) 2017-08-09
EP3418068B1 (fr) 2020-02-19

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