EP3090644B1 - Élément de joaillerie - Google Patents

Élément de joaillerie Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3090644B1
EP3090644B1 EP15166696.3A EP15166696A EP3090644B1 EP 3090644 B1 EP3090644 B1 EP 3090644B1 EP 15166696 A EP15166696 A EP 15166696A EP 3090644 B1 EP3090644 B1 EP 3090644B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
gemstone
decorative element
carrier body
recess
element according
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP15166696.3A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP3090644A1 (fr
Inventor
Christian Loinger
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
D Swarovski KG
Original Assignee
D Swarovski KG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by D Swarovski KG filed Critical D Swarovski KG
Priority to EP15166696.3A priority Critical patent/EP3090644B1/fr
Publication of EP3090644A1 publication Critical patent/EP3090644A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3090644B1 publication Critical patent/EP3090644B1/fr
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/001—Faceting gems
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a decorative element according to claim 1.
  • Decorative elements often consist of carrier bodies in which one or more gemstones are inserted.
  • the carrier bodies have recesses whose sizes are adapted to the gemstones to be accommodated.
  • the gemstones themselves have setting surfaces and/or setting edges with which the gemstones are inserted into the recesses.
  • the carrier bodies often have surfaces that are curved outwards or inwards, i.e. convexly or concavely curved, in which gemstones are inserted, the problem arises due to the curved surface that the gemstones used, especially along the edge of the recess protrude to different extents over the surface of the carrier body. This is initially undesirable for aesthetic reasons.
  • the gemstones protrude at different distances from the surface of the carrier body, there is a risk that the gemstone will get caught on other objects when using the gemstone, and the gemstone can be torn out of the recess as a result.
  • German patent application DE 10 2011 051084 A1 in the name of Weinmann Grabriele which discloses the preamble of claim 1, relates to "a method for producing a decorated body of jewelry based on, for example, a natural pearl, a cultured pearl, an artificial pearl, a precious or semi-precious stone, wood, glass, plastic, etc. with an integrated decorative element, as well as a decorated decorative body that can be produced using this process".
  • the object of the present invention is to provide a decorative element which avoids the above disadvantages and in which the gemstone or gemstones are stably fixed in a carrier body and in doing so satisfies the aesthetic requirements placed on decorative decorative elements.
  • the area with the greatest cross-sectional extent lies in a planar plane, with this area being bordered by a setting edge or a setting surface.
  • the setting surface is usually referred to as the girdle and represents an edge surface around the area of the greatest cross-sectional extent of the gemstone, with this edge surface delimiting a volume whose top surface and/or base surface lie in a flat plane.
  • the level of the largest cross-sectional extent is usually referred to as the girdle level.
  • the support body has an area with a curved surface, in which a recess is arranged, in which a gemstone is inserted and the setting surface has, in contrast to the prior art, a shape following the curvature of the edge of the recess, the setting surface and thus that area of the gem which is arranged in the inserted state in the area of the edge of the recess correlates with the edge of the recess which, due to the curved area of the surface of the carrier body is also curved.
  • This makes it possible for the setting surface and the gemstone in the area of the edge of the recess not to protrude to different extents over the surface of the carrier body.
  • the gemstone is thus elegantly integrated into the curved surface of the carrier body.
  • a curved surface should be understood to mean both a convexly curved and a concavely curved surface.
  • the gemstone itself is framed by the carrier body in the area of the setting surface. If the gemstone has a girdle, for example, it can be provided that the gemstone with the girdle is bordered by the edge of the recess.
  • the recess could have slightly smaller dimensions than the circumference of the setting surface and—in the case of an at least partially elastic carrier body—be held by the carrier body in a non-positive manner.
  • the recess could also have mechanical holding devices, such as a flanged edge, via which the gemstone is additionally or alternatively held in a form-fitting manner by the carrier body.
  • the setting surface is provided with additional facets, which enable better wedging of the gemstone in the recess.
  • the setting surface is designed in such a way that a rear side of the gemstone arranged in the carrier body separates from the setting surface from a front side which is seen as the visible side of the gemstone by the user of the decorative element.
  • the back of the gemstone can have a tapering shape, possibly with a point or a culet.
  • a tapered shape special optical effects can be created due to light reflection and refraction, especially when the back of the gem is provided with facets, as in one embodiment, and/or the back of the gem is provided with a mirror layer to increase reflection .
  • the front side of the gemstone serving as the visible surface can also be provided with facets and at least partially tapered.
  • the facets of the back and the front of the gem can have a flat shape.
  • the gemstone is formed without a back.
  • the underside of the setting surface represents the end of the gemstone remote from the visible side.
  • the underside of the setting surface can be designed in the form of an inner surface of a sphere, for example.
  • the gemstone can then be glued into a correspondingly adapted recess with the surface formed by the underside of the setting surface.
  • a form-fitting and a force-fitting fastening is additionally or alternatively possible.
  • the gemstone can be a natural or synthetic gemstone or glass stone.
  • Glass stones have the advantage of being inexpensive to produce, which, in the case of high-quality crystal glass, is regarded as an optically high-quality substitute for precious stones.
  • the shape of the gemstone is also varied.
  • gemstones having a cross-section of round, oval, triangular, rectangular, heart-shaped, elliptical, and the like can be used.
  • gemstones in which the length and width of the largest cross-sectional area differ significantly from one another and gemstones that do not have a circular cross-section can be used to advantage.
  • gemstones that have a discrete rotational symmetry with respect to their longitudinal axis can be used to advantage.
  • the carrier body itself can also consist of a wide variety of materials.
  • Carrier bodies made of metal preferably noble metal, which also have mechanically advantageous properties, are visually attractive.
  • noble metals such as gold, silver, but also alloys such as bronze, brass and the like come into question.
  • An alternative to metal carrier bodies are carrier bodies made of plastic, with mixed forms such as, for example, metal-coated plastics or fiber-reinforced plastics also being possible.
  • the envelope of the front side of the gemstone is arched, for example by having the shells arranged on the front side Facets approximate a curved surface. It is advantageously provided that the curvature of the envelope of the front side of the gemstone continues the curvature of the support surface in the area of the recess.
  • the curvature of the envelope is adapted to the curvature of the carrier body in the area of the recess, and the curvature of the envelope essentially corresponds to the curvature of the carrier body in this area.
  • the curvature of the carrier body in the area of the recess can be understood to mean that curvature which would be present if the surface continued continuously into the area of the recess.
  • the front side of the gemstone including the setting surface can represent a spherical segment or approximate it with a spherical envelope, so that the recess is covered by the front side of the gemstone and the spherical shape is essentially retained.
  • the front side of the gemstone is thus approximately a segment of a sphere or part of the surface of the sphere.
  • the ratio of the envelope to the largest cross-sectional extent of the gemstone is 2:1 or less. If the surface of the carrier body is at least partially spherical, the radius of curvature of the spherical region is 12.5 mm or less in one embodiment of the invention.
  • a gemstone with a back and a front separated from the back by a setting surface the top surface and/or the base surface of the volume bordered by the setting surface being curved or having a curved envelope.
  • the setting surface designed, for example, as a girdle delimits a volume in the gemstone whose top surface and/or base surface is curved, for example in the form of a cylindrical body with a curved top surface and/or base surface.
  • the setting surface can have a shape following the curvature of the edge of the recess if the respective radii of curvature match.
  • FIGs 1a to 1g are shown different views of a gemstone 2 according to the invention, wherein due to the symmetry of the gemstone 2, the side views of the Figures 1b and 1d with those of Figures 1a and 1c to match.
  • the cross section of this gemstone 2 is approximately rectangular.
  • the front 6, which is provided with facets 8, is separated from the rear 7, which is provided with facets 9 and has a tapered shape, by a setting surface 4, the setting surface 4 having a curvature in the direction perpendicular on the cross section, ie in the direction of the connection from the front 6 to the back 7.
  • the gemstone 2 can be inserted into a recess 15 arranged on the surface 13 of the carrier body 3, the edge 25 of which has a corresponding curvature. This can prevent the setting surface 4 from protruding unevenly from the surface 13 of the carrier body 3 in the region of the edge 25 of the recess 15 .
  • the front side 6 or its envelope are curved and designed approximately in the form of a spherical segment and, when inserted into an at least partially spherical carrier body 3, represent part of the spherical surface.
  • the plan view according to FIG Fig. 1e shows that in the area above the setting surface 4
  • Additional facets 10 are arranged, which are not part of the curved setting surface 4, but with which the gemstone 2 can be better bordered by the carrier body 3. Furthermore, according to the plan view Fig. 1e the facets 8 of the front 6 can be seen. 1f shows a view of the gemstone 2 from below, the facets 9 of the back 7 being clearly visible. In the perspective view according to 1g the arched setting surface 4 is clearly visible.
  • the Figures 2a to 2g show different views of a further embodiment of a gemstone 2 according to the invention, which has an elliptical cross-sectional area.
  • a setting surface 4 which in this case is designed as a girdle, separates the front side 6 from the back side 7, which has a point 11.
  • the front side 6 and the back side 7 are provided with facets 8 and 9.
  • the setting surface 4 has a curvature in the direction perpendicular to the cross-sectional area, i.e.
  • the front side 6 or its envelope is curved and designed approximately in the form of a spherical segment and, when inserted into an at least partially spherical carrier body 3, represents part of the spherical surface.
  • FIG. 3 shows a schematic representation of a setting edge 5 which delimits a curved surface 12 .
  • a setting edge 5 is provided for gemstones 1 in which the setting surface 4 is reduced to a setting edge 5 .
  • FIG. 4 shows a schematic representation of a setting surface 4, which delimits a volume which has a curved top surface 12 and a curved base surface.
  • Figure 5a shows a plan view of a decorative element 1 in the form of a hemisphere, in which a decorative stone 2 with a substantially triangular cross-section is used.
  • the setting surface 4 has a shape that follows the curvature of the edge 25 of the recess 15 in the spherical surface 13 of the carrier body 3, as can be seen in particular from the side views according to FIG Figures 5b and 5c is recognizable.
  • the envelope of the front 6 is also substantially spherical, the radii of curvature of the envelope of the front 6 with that of the spherical
  • Carrier body 3 essentially match.
  • the decorative element 1 is shown in a perspective view.
  • Figure 6a shows a top view of another embodiment of a decorative element 1 in the form of a sphere, in which three gemstones 2 according to FIG Figures 1a to 1g are used.
  • the setting surface 4 has a shape following the curvature of the edge 25 of the recess 15 in the spherical surface 13 of the support body 3, as can be seen from the side views of FIG Figures 6b and 6c is recognizable.
  • the envelope of the front side 6 is also essentially spherical, with the radii of curvature of the envelope of the front side 6 corresponding to that of the spherical carrier body 3 essentially.
  • a through hole 14 can be seen with which the jewelry element 1 in a simple manner, z. B. can be attached to a chain.
  • Figure 6d shows the decorative element 1 in a perspective view.
  • Figure 7a shows a plan view of a further embodiment of a decorative element 1 in the form of a sphere, in which a decorative stone 2 with a substantially heart-shaped cross-section is used.
  • the setting surface 4 has a shape following the curvature of the edge 25 of the recess 15 in the spherical surface 13 of the carrier body 3, as can be seen in particular from the side views of FIG Figures 7b and 7c is recognizable.
  • the envelope of the front side 6 is also essentially spherical, with the radii of curvature of the envelope of the front side 6 corresponding to that of the hemispherical carrier body 3 essentially.
  • the decorative element 1 is shown in a perspective view.
  • FIG 8a Another embodiment of a decorative element 1 is shown, which has a spherical carrier body 3 flattened on two sides, in which a gemstone 2 according to FIG Figures 2a to 2g is used.
  • the setting surface 4 has a shape that follows the curvature of the edge 25 of the recess 15 in the spherical surface 13 of the carrier body 3, as can be seen from the side views in accordance with FIG Figures 8b and 8c is recognizable.
  • the envelope of the front side 6 is also essentially spherical, with the radii of curvature of the envelope of the front side 6 corresponding to that of the spherical carrier body 3 essentially.
  • a through hole 14 can also be seen, which is used for easy attachment of the Decorative element 1, z. B. serves on a chain.
  • Figure 8d shows the decorative element 1 in a perspective view.
  • the front sides 6 of the gemstones 2 are provided with facets.
  • Figure 9a shows a top view of a decorative element 1 with a carrier body 3, which has a concavely curved surface 13, in which a gemstone 2 with a setting surface 4 is inserted, which has a shape following the curvature of the edge 25 of the recess 15 in the carrier body 13.
  • the envelope of the front side 6 is also concavely curved, with the radius of curvature essentially corresponding to that of the surface 13 . This is in the cross-sectional view of the Figure 9b shown.
  • Figure 10a shows a top view of a carrier body 3 for a decorative element 1 according to the invention.
  • the carrier body 3 has a spherical surface 13 with two flattened sides in which recesses for a through hole 14 for fastening the decorative element 1 are arranged.
  • the carrier body 3 itself is hollow and has a recess 15 in the spherical area, which in this embodiment for receiving a gemstone 2 according to FIG Figures 2a to 2g serves. Since the recess 15 is arranged in the spherical area of the surface 13, the edge 25 of the recess 15 has a curvature. In the embodiment according to 10 the edge 25 of the recess 15 is provided with facets.
  • edge 25 can also be designed differently, in particular without facets.
  • Figure 10b shows a cross-sectional representation of the carrier body 3 along the section line AA.
  • the curved edge 25 of the recess 15 can be seen, as can the bores for the through hole 14 arranged in the flattened areas.
  • Figure 10c shows a cross-sectional representation along the section line BB. Again, the curved edge 25 of the recess 15 can be seen, as well as the facets arranged in the edge 25 .
  • the shape of the setting surface 4 adapted to the curvature of the edge 25 of the recess 15 and also the curved envelope of the front side 6 result in aesthetic advantages as a result of improved radiation behavior.
  • a gemstone 2 according to the invention measuring 6.00 mm x 3.00 mm in the embodiment of FIG Figures 2a to 2g with the gemstones from Swarovski ® "Baguette step cut” (No. 24059630) and "Baguette princess cut” (No.
  • FIG. 11 shows a schematic view of a measurement arrangement developed by the Gemological Institute of America for measuring the light return (light yield) of a gemstone.
  • a gemstone 2 arranged in the center of the base circle 17 of the hemisphere 16 is illuminated by light beams 18, so that the gemstone 2 is irradiated with white, diffuse light, with the light beams falling hemispherically on the gemstone 2 except for a darkened area 19 strike and be reflected by it.
  • the base circle 17 is darkened except for the recess for the gemstone 2 , so that no light strikes the gemstone 2 from below the base circle 17 .
  • a region 19 of hemisphere 16 which lies exactly opposite gemstone 2 and has an opening angle ⁇ of 46°.
  • the area 19 has a recess 20 with an opening angle ⁇ of 3°.
  • This recess 20 serves as a narrow measuring field for a detector.
  • a detector measuring the luminous flux can thus be arranged above the recess 20 .
  • a directed emission with a Lambertian beam distribution (full angle 0.5°) normal to the surface of the hemisphere 16 is used. This beam distribution causes the individual beams 18 to be scattered, so that the beams 18 do not strike the gemstone 2 exactly in the middle, but the side facets are also illuminated.
  • the respective light-specific Values such as the brightness in the area of this recess 20 are also calculated in a computer simulation.
  • the amount of light reflected upwards from the gemstone 2 represents an average value for almost all possible lighting arrangements and thus results in a quantitative measure of the light return (light yield) of the gemstone 2.
  • the reflections take place on different facets, so that light shines directly when it first hits the gemstone 2, but is also reflected back to the recess after one of several internal reflections.
  • the higher the proportion of reflected light the higher the light output and the brightness and the better the general reflection behavior of the gem 2, which is associated with a higher-quality aesthetic perception.
  • the 12 shows a measurement arrangement for the "Fire" value.
  • the gemstone 2 held by a holder 20 is illuminated in the direction of its major axis with narrowly collimated light having a Gaussian beam distribution (1° FWHM) from the light source 21 and through the aperture 22 .
  • the light scattered back by the gemstone 2 is recorded in color on a measuring field 24 about 50 cm away, which corresponds to the normal distance between the eyes when observing in a relaxed manner.
  • the product values of illuminance and saturation of the points of light recorded in the measuring field 24 are added up and thus give the measure for the fire.
  • Another light or radiation-specific variable of the gemstone is the so-called flare distribution, ie the distribution of the light points of an irradiated gemstone.
  • the uniformity of the flare distribution is defined using a Voronoi decomposition into regions, where each region is determined by exactly one center and includes all points of a surface that are closer to the center of the region than to any other center.
  • An example of such a Voronoi decomposition is given in 13 shown.
  • the resulting measure for the flare distribution is the sum of the squares of the areas in the Voronoi diagram.
  • a smaller dimension number means a more even flare distribution, which is preferred for the cut of a gemstone for aesthetic reasons.
  • the gemstone 2 according to the invention delivers comparable values for fire and light return to the gemstones already known.
  • the flare distribution is much more even, which is desirable for optical reasons.

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Claims (12)

  1. Élément de joaillerie (1) comprenant
    • un corps de support (3) comportant une surface (13) au moins partiellement courbée et dans laquelle est disposé un évidement (15), et
    • une pierre de joaillerie (2) disposée dans l'évidement (15), la pierre de joaillerie (2) présentant une surface de sertissage (4) et une face arrière (7) disposée dans le corps de support (3) et une face avant (6) séparée de la face arrière (7) par la surface de sertissage (4), la surface de sertissage (4) présentant une forme suivant la courbure du bord (25) de l'évidement (15), et la pierre de joaillerie (2) étant entourée par le corps de support (3) dans la région de la surface de sertissage (4),
    caractérisé en ce
    que pour augmenter la tenue mécanique de la pierre de joaillerie (2), la surface de sertissage (4) est pourvue de facettes supplémentaires (10) qui permettent un meilleur calage de la pierre de joaillerie (2) dans l'évidement (15),
    et dans lequel les facettes supplémentaires (10) sont disposées dans la région au-dessus de la surface de sertissage (4) et ne font pas partie de la surface de sertissage (4) courbée et avec lesquelles la pierre de joaillerie (2) peut être mieux encadrée par le corps de support (3).
  2. Élément de joaillerie selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que l'évidement (15) dispose d'un bord rabattu sur lequel la pierre de joaillerie (2) est en outre maintenue par le corps de support (3).
  3. Élément de joaillerie selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que la face arrière (7) de la pierre de joaillerie (2) présente une forme effilée.
  4. Élément de joaillerie selon la revendication 3, caractérisé en ce que la face arrière (7) de la pierre de joaillerie (2) présente une pointe (11) ou une culasse.
  5. Élément de joaillerie selon l'une des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisé en ce que la face arrière (7) de la pierre de joaillerie (2) et/ou la face avant (6) de la pierre de joaillerie (2) sont pourvues de facettes (8, 9).
  6. Élément de joaillerie selon l'une des revendications 1 à 5, caractérisé en ce que la face avant (6) de la pierre de joaillerie (2) présente une forme effilée.
  7. Élément de joaillerie selon l'une des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisé en ce que l'enveloppe de la face avant (6) de la pierre de joaillerie (2) est courbée.
  8. Élément de joaillerie selon la revendication 7, caractérisé en ce que le rapport du rayon de courbure de l'enveloppe à la plus grande étendue de section transversale de la pierre de joaillerie est de 2:1 ou moins.
  9. Élément de joaillerie selon l'une des revendications 1 à 8, caractérisé en ce que la surface (13) du corps de support (3) est au moins partiellement sphérique.
  10. Élément de joaillerie selon la revendication 9, caractérisé en ce que le rayon de courbure de la région sphérique est inférieur ou égal à 12,5 mm.
  11. Élément de joaillerie selon l'une des revendications 1 à 10, caractérisé en ce que la pierre de joaillerie (2) est choisie dans le groupe des pierres précieuses naturelles ou synthétiques ou est constituée de verre.
  12. Élément de joaillerie selon l'une des revendications 1 à 11, caractérisé en ce que le corps de support (3) est choisi dans le groupe des métaux, de préférence des métaux précieux, et/ou dans le groupe des matières plastiques.
EP15166696.3A 2015-05-07 2015-05-07 Élément de joaillerie Active EP3090644B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP15166696.3A EP3090644B1 (fr) 2015-05-07 2015-05-07 Élément de joaillerie

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP15166696.3A EP3090644B1 (fr) 2015-05-07 2015-05-07 Élément de joaillerie

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Publication Number Publication Date
EP3090644A1 EP3090644A1 (fr) 2016-11-09
EP3090644B1 true EP3090644B1 (fr) 2022-06-15

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EP15166696.3A Active EP3090644B1 (fr) 2015-05-07 2015-05-07 Élément de joaillerie

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Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CH717995A1 (fr) * 2020-10-28 2022-04-29 Richemont Int Sa Pierre taillée pour pièce de bijouterie, de joaillerie ou d'horlogerie.

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20080163647A1 (en) * 2007-01-05 2008-07-10 Ronald Craig Rosen Arrangement for article of jewelry
DE102011010665A1 (de) * 2011-02-08 2012-08-09 W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh Schmuckstück mit einem Schmuckelement sowie ein Verfahren zur Herstellung eines derartigen Schmuckstücks

Family Cites Families (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5044123A (en) 1990-03-22 1991-09-03 Douglas Hoffman Concave-convex faceting method and apparatus
US6006548A (en) * 1996-09-12 1999-12-28 M. Fabrikant & Sons, Ltd. Facet cut structure for gemstones to enhance brilliance
AT9180U1 (de) 2006-06-23 2007-06-15 Swarovski & Co Ziergegenstand aus glas
DE202011110022U1 (de) * 2011-06-15 2013-01-15 Gabriele Weinmann Schmuckkörper mit integriertem Schmuckelement
DE102011119270A1 (de) * 2011-11-24 2013-05-29 Gabriele Weinmann Gegenstände mit dekorativen Teilen
WO2015010142A1 (fr) 2013-07-26 2015-01-29 D. Swarovski Kg Procédé de fixation de pierres de bijouterie

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20080163647A1 (en) * 2007-01-05 2008-07-10 Ronald Craig Rosen Arrangement for article of jewelry
DE102011010665A1 (de) * 2011-02-08 2012-08-09 W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh Schmuckstück mit einem Schmuckelement sowie ein Verfahren zur Herstellung eines derartigen Schmuckstücks

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