EP3090644A1 - Élément de joaillerie - Google Patents

Élément de joaillerie Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3090644A1
EP3090644A1 EP15166696.3A EP15166696A EP3090644A1 EP 3090644 A1 EP3090644 A1 EP 3090644A1 EP 15166696 A EP15166696 A EP 15166696A EP 3090644 A1 EP3090644 A1 EP 3090644A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
gemstone
setting
edge
recess
element according
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP15166696.3A
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German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP3090644B1 (fr
Inventor
Christian Loinger
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
D Swarovski KG
Original Assignee
D Swarovski KG
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by D Swarovski KG filed Critical D Swarovski KG
Priority to EP15166696.3A priority Critical patent/EP3090644B1/fr
Publication of EP3090644A1 publication Critical patent/EP3090644A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP3090644B1 publication Critical patent/EP3090644B1/fr
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Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/001—Faceting gems
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a decorative element comprising a support body with an at least partially curved surface, in which a recess is arranged, and a gemstone arranged in the recess, wherein the gemstone has a setting surface or setting edge.
  • the object of the present invention is to provide a decorative element which avoids the above drawbacks and in which the one or more gemstones are stably fixed in a support body, thereby satisfying the aesthetic requirements imposed on decorative ornamental elements.
  • the area of greatest cross-sectional extension lies in a plane plane, this area being surrounded by a setting edge or a setting surface.
  • the setting surface is usually referred to as a Rondiste and represents an edge surface around the region of the largest cross-sectional dimension of the gem, which is bounded by this edge surface, a volume whose top surface and / or base lie in a plane plane.
  • the plane of the largest cross-sectional extent is usually referred to as the Rondistenebene.
  • the carrier body has a region with a curved surface, in which a recess is arranged, in which a gemstone is inserted, and in contrast to the prior art, the setting surface or the setting edge has a shape following the curvature of the edge of the recess Setting surface and / or the setting edge and thus that portion of the gemstone, which is arranged in the inserted state in the region of the edge of the recess, with the edge of the recess, which is also curved due to the curved portion of the surface of the support body.
  • the gemstone is thus beautifully integrated into the curved surface of the carrier body. Under a curved surface to be understood in the present invention, both a convex curved and a concave curved surface.
  • the gemstone itself can be bordered by the carrier body in the area of the setting surface or the setting edge. If the gemstone has, for example, a rondiste, it can be provided that the gemstone with the rondite is bordered by the edge of the recess.
  • the recess could have slightly smaller dimensions than the circumference of the setting edge or the setting surface and - in the case of an at least partially elastic carrier body - be held by the carrier body frictionally.
  • the recess could also have mechanical holding devices, such as a flanged edge over which the gemstone is additionally or alternatively held in a form-fitting manner by the carrier body.
  • the gemstone by means of adhesive additionally or alternatively shock-resistant on the support body.
  • adhesive additionally or alternatively shock-resistant on the support body.
  • it may be provided to provide the setting surface with additional facets, which allow a better wedging of the gemstone in the recess.
  • the setting surface or the setting edge may be formed such that a rear side of the gemstone arranged in the carrier body is separated from the front edge of the setting edge or the setting surface, which is seen by the user of the jewelery element as the visible side of the gemstone.
  • the back of the gemstone have a tapered shape, optionally with a tip or a caliber.
  • a tapered shape of the particular optical effects can be generated due to light reflection and refraction, especially if the back of the gem is provided as in one embodiment with facets and / or the back of the gem is provided with a mirror layer to increase the reflection ,
  • the serving as a visible surface front of the gem can also be provided with facets and at least partially tapered.
  • the facets of the back and the front of the gemstone can have a flat shape.
  • the underside of the setting surface or the setting edge represents the distal end of the gemstone from the visible side.
  • the underside of the setting edge or the setting surface may be formed, for example, in the form of an inner surface of a sphere. With the surface formed by the underside of the setting surface or the setting edge of the gemstone can then be glued into a correspondingly adapted recess. As mentioned above, in addition or alternatively, a positive and a non-positive attachment is possible.
  • the gemstone can be a natural or synthetic gemstone or glass stone.
  • Glass blocks have the advantage of a cost-effective production, which are considered in the case of a high-quality crystal glass as a visually high-quality replacement for gems.
  • the shape of the gem is also varied.
  • gemstones having a cross section of round, oval, triangular, rectangular, heart-shaped, elliptical shape and the like can be used more.
  • gemstones in which the length and width of the largest cross-sectional area differ significantly from each other and gemstones, which do not have a circular cross-section can be used advantageously.
  • gemstones having a discrete rotational symmetry with respect to their longitudinal axis can be advantageously used.
  • the support body itself may also consist of various materials.
  • Optically shapely carrier body made of metal, preferably precious metal, which also have mechanically advantageous properties.
  • precious metals such as gold, silver but also alloys such as bronze, brass and the like more.
  • An alternative to metallic carrier bodies are carrier bodies made of plastic, mixed forms such as, for example, metal-coated plastics or fiber-reinforced plastics also being considered.
  • the envelope of the front side of the gemstone is arched, for example by the facets arranged on the front side approximating a curved surface. It is advantageously provided that the curvature of the envelope of the front of the gem continues the curvature of the support surface in the region of the recess.
  • the curvature of the envelope to the curvature of the carrier body in the region of Recess adapted, and the curvature of the envelope corresponds substantially to the curvature of the carrier body in this area.
  • the curvature of the carrier body in the region of the recess can be understood as the curvature that would be present in the region of the recess given a continuous continuation of the surface.
  • the carrier surface is spherical
  • the front side of the gemstone together with the setting surface or setting edge can represent a spherical segment or be approximated by a spherical envelope so that the recess is covered by the front side of the gemstone and the spherical shape is substantially retained.
  • the front of the gemstone is thus approximately a spherical segment or a part of the spherical surface.
  • the ratio of the envelope to the largest cross-sectional dimension of the gem is 2: 1 or less. If the surface of the carrier body is at least partially spherical, the radius of curvature of the spherical area in one embodiment of the invention is 12.5 mm or less.
  • the invention further relates to a gemstone having a back side and a front side separated from the rear side by a setting edge, wherein the surface bordered by the setting edge is arched.
  • the setting edge has a curvature with respect to the direction of the connecting line between the front and back of the gemstone. If the gemstone according to the invention in the direction of the connection between the front and back, which may correspond, for example, its longitudinal direction, inserted into a recess which is arranged in a curved support surface, the setting edge may have a curvature of the edge of the recess following shape, when the respective radii of curvature coincide.
  • the invention further relates to a gemstone having a rear side and a front side separated from the rear side by a setting surface, wherein the top surface and / or the base surface of the volume bordered by the setting surface is arched or has a curved envelope.
  • the trained as Rondiste setting surface bounded in the gemstone a volume whose top surface and / or base is curved, such as in the form of a cylindrical body with a curved top surface and / or base.
  • the setting surface may have the shape following the curvature of the edge of the recess, when the respective radii of curvature coincide.
  • FIG. 1a to 1g different views of a gemstone 2 according to the invention are shown, wherein due to the symmetry of the gemstone 2, the side views of Figures 1b and 1d with those of FIGS. 1a and 1c to match.
  • the top view according Fig. 1e shows that in the area above the setting surface 4 additional facets 10 are arranged, which are not part of the arched setting surface 4 and setting edge 5, but with which the gem 2 can be better framed by the support body 3. Further, in the plan view according to Fig. 1e to recognize the facets 8 of the front 6. Fig. 1f represents a view of the gem 2 from below, the facets 9 of the back 7 are clearly visible. In the perspective view according to Fig. 1g The arched trained setting surface 4 is clearly visible.
  • Fig. 2a to 2g show various views of another embodiment of a gemstone 2 according to the invention, which has an elliptical cross-sectional area.
  • a setting surface 4 which in this case is a rondiste, separates the front side 6 from the rear side 7 having a tip 11.
  • the front side 6 and the back side 7 are provided with facets 8 and 9.
  • the setting surface 4 has a curvature in the direction perpendicular to the cross-sectional area, ie in the direction of the connection from the front 6 to the back 7, and can thus be integrated into a carrier body 3 with a recess 15 in a region with a correspondingly curved surface 13 , If the curvature of the setting surface 4 correlates with that of the surface 13 or the edge 25 of the recess 15 in the surface 13, the setting surface 4 does not project unevenly from the surface 13, so that a shapely integration of the gemstone 2 in the decorative element 1 is achieved and an involuntary one Ripping out of the gemstone 2 is avoided.
  • the front side 6 and its envelope are curved and formed approximately in the form of a spherical segment and are used in an at least partially spherical support body 3 is a part of the spherical surface.
  • Fig. 3 shows a schematic representation of a setting edge 5, which defines a curved surface 12.
  • a setting edge 5 is provided in gemstones 1 according to the invention, in which the setting surface 4 is reduced to a setting edge 5.
  • Fig. 4 shows a schematic representation of a setting surface 4, which defines a volume, which has a curved top surface 12 and a curved base.
  • Fig. 5a shows a plan view of a decorative element 1 in the form of a hemisphere, in which a gemstone 2 is inserted with a substantially triangular cross-section.
  • the setting surface 4 one of the curvature of the edge 25 of the recess 15 in the spherical surface 13 of the support body 3 following form, as shown in particular from the side views Fig. 5b and Fig. 5c is recognizable.
  • the envelope of the front side 6 is also substantially spherical surface, wherein the radii of curvature of the envelope of the front side 6 with that of the spherical carrier body 3 substantially coincide.
  • the jewelry element 1 is shown in a perspective view.
  • Fig. 6a shows a plan view of another embodiment of a decorative element 1 in the form of a ball, in which three gems 2 according to the Fig. 1a to 1g are used.
  • the setting surface 4 one of the curvature of the edge 25 of the recess 15 in the spherical surface 13 of the support body 3, the following shape, as shown by the side views of Fig. 6b and 6c is recognizable.
  • the envelope of the front side 6 is also substantially spherical surface, wherein the radii of curvature of the envelope of the front side 6 with that of the spherical carrier body 3 substantially coincide.
  • a through hole 14 can be seen, with which the jewelry element 1 in a simple manner, for. B. can be attached to a chain.
  • Fig. 6d shows the decorative element 1 in a perspective view.
  • Fig. 7a shows a plan view of another embodiment of a decorative element 1 in the form of a ball, in which a gemstone 2 is inserted with a substantially heart-shaped cross-section.
  • the setting surface 4 one of the curvature of the edge 25 of the recess 15 in the spherical surface 13 of the support body 3 following form, as shown in particular from the side views of Fig. 7b and Fig. 7c is recognizable.
  • the envelope of the front side 6 is substantially also spherical surface, wherein the radii of curvature of the envelope of the front side 6 with that of the hemispherical carrier body 3 substantially to match.
  • the jewelry element 1 is shown in a perspective view.
  • a further embodiment of a decorative element 1 is shown, which has a flattened on two sides spherical support body 3, in which a gem 2 according to the Fig. 2a to 2g is used.
  • the setting surface 4 one of the curvature of the edge 25 of the recess 15 in the spherical surface 13 of the support body 3 following form, as shown in the side views Fig. 8b and Fig. 8c is recognizable.
  • the envelope of the front side 6 is also substantially spherical surface, wherein the radii of curvature of the envelope of the front side 6 with that of the spherical carrier body 3 substantially coincide.
  • a through hole 14 can be seen, which for easy attachment of the jewelry element 1, z. B. serves on a chain.
  • Fig. 8d shows the decorative element 1 in a perspective view.
  • the front sides 6 of the gems 2 are provided with facets.
  • Fig. 9a shows a plan view of a decorative element 1 with a support body 3, which has a concave curved surface 13, in which a gemstone 2 is inserted with a setting surface 4, one of the curvature of the edge 25 of the recess 15 in the support body 13 has the following shape.
  • the envelope of the front side 6 is also concavely curved, the radius of curvature substantially corresponding to that of the surface 13. This is in the cross-sectional view of Fig. 9b shown.
  • Fig. 10a shows a plan view of a support body 3 for a jewelry element according to the invention 1.
  • the support body 3 has a spherical surface 13 with two flattened sides, in which recesses are arranged for a through hole 14 for fixing the decorative element 1.
  • the carrier body 3 itself is hollow and has in the spherical area a recess 15, which in this embodiment for receiving a gem 2 according to the Fig. 2a to 2g serves. Since the recess 15 is arranged in the spherical area of the surface 13, the edge 25 of the recess 15 has a curvature. In the Embodiment according to Fig. 10 the edge 25 of the recess 15 is provided with facets.
  • edge 25 can also be designed differently, in particular without facets.
  • Fig. 10b shows a cross-sectional view of the carrier body 3 along the section line AA.
  • the curved edge 25 of the recess 15 can be seen, as well as arranged in the flattened areas holes for the through hole 14th
  • Fig. 10c shows a cross-sectional view along the section line BB. Again, the curved edge 25 of the recess 15 can be seen, as well as arranged in the edge 25 facets.
  • the shape of the setting surface 4 or the setting edge 5, which is adapted to the curvature of the edge 25 of the recess 15, and also the convexly formed envelope of the front side 6 result in aesthetic advantages as a result of improved radiation behavior.
  • the base circle 17 is darkened except for the recess for the gemstone 2, so that from below the base circle 17 no light impinges on the gemstone 2. Also darkened is a region 19 of the hemisphere 16, which is exactly opposite the gem 2 and has an opening angle ⁇ of 46 °. Also from this area no light comes to the gem stone 2.
  • the area 19 has a recess 20 with an opening angle ⁇ of 3 °.
  • This recess 20 serves as a narrow measuring field for a detector. It can thus be arranged above the recess 20, a luminous flux measuring detector. In this case, a directional radiation with a Lambertian beam distribution (full angle 0.5 °) normal to the surface of the hemisphere 16 is used.
  • This beam distribution causes a scattering of the individual beams 18, so that the beams 18 do not hit the gemstone 2 exactly in the middle, but also the lateral facets are illuminated.
  • the respective light-specific values such as, for example, the brightness in the area of this recess 20, can also be calculated in a computer simulation.
  • the amount of light reflected upwards by the gemstone 2 represents an average over almost all possible lighting arrangements and thus gives a quantitative measure of the light return (light output) of the gemstone 2.
  • the reflections take place on different facets, so that light directly on the first impact the gemstone 2, but also after one of several internal reflections to the recess is reflected back.
  • the higher the proportion of the reflected light the higher the luminous efficacy and the brightness and the better the general reflection behavior of the gemstone 2, which is accompanied by a higher aesthetic quality.
  • Fig. 12 shows a measuring arrangement for the "Fire" - value.
  • the gemstone 2 held by a holder 20 is illuminated in the direction of its major axis with narrow collimated light with Gaussian beam distribution (1 ° FWHM) from the light source 21 and through the opening 22.
  • the light scattered back by the gemstone 2 is recorded in color on a measuring field 24 approximately 50 cm away, which corresponds to the normal eye relief with relaxed observation.
  • the product values of illuminance and saturation of the light points detected in the measuring field 24 are summed up and thus give the measure for the Fire.
  • a computer simulation is also possible, wherein the reflection patterns are illustrated by the same setting of the maximum of the Luminance calibrated against each other and evaluated by means of a computer program.
  • the rendered images are converted into the HSI color space and the product of the two variables S and I is calculated, where S denotes the color saturation of a pixel and I the intensity.
  • Another light- or radiation-specific size of the gemstone is the so-called flare distribution, ie the distribution of the light spots of an irradiated gemstone.
  • the uniformity of the flare distribution is defined by means of a Voronoi decomposition into regions, each region being determined by exactly one center and comprising all points of an area closer to the center of the region than at any other center.
  • An example of such a Voronoi decomposition is in Fig. 13 shown.
  • the resulting measure for the flare distribution is the sum of the squares of the surfaces in the Voronoi diagram.
  • a smaller measure means a more even flare distribution, which is preferred for aesthetic reasons for the grinding of a gem.
  • the gemstone 2 according to the invention for fire and light return provides comparable values as the already known gemstones.
  • the flare distribution is much more uniform due to the much lower value, which is desired for visual reasons.

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EP15166696.3A 2015-05-07 2015-05-07 Élément de joaillerie Active EP3090644B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP15166696.3A EP3090644B1 (fr) 2015-05-07 2015-05-07 Élément de joaillerie

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP15166696.3A EP3090644B1 (fr) 2015-05-07 2015-05-07 Élément de joaillerie

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3090644A1 true EP3090644A1 (fr) 2016-11-09
EP3090644B1 EP3090644B1 (fr) 2022-06-15

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EP15166696.3A Active EP3090644B1 (fr) 2015-05-07 2015-05-07 Élément de joaillerie

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CH717995A1 (fr) * 2020-10-28 2022-04-29 Richemont Int Sa Pierre taillée pour pièce de bijouterie, de joaillerie ou d'horlogerie.

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5044123A (en) 1990-03-22 1991-09-03 Douglas Hoffman Concave-convex faceting method and apparatus
US6006548A (en) * 1996-09-12 1999-12-28 M. Fabrikant & Sons, Ltd. Facet cut structure for gemstones to enhance brilliance
EP1869991A1 (fr) 2006-06-23 2007-12-26 D. Swarovski & Co. Objet d'ornement en verre
DE102011051084A1 (de) * 2011-06-15 2012-12-20 Gabriele Weinmann Verfahren zur Bearbeitung von Schmuckkörpern
DE102011119270A1 (de) * 2011-11-24 2013-05-29 Gabriele Weinmann Gegenstände mit dekorativen Teilen
WO2015010142A1 (fr) 2013-07-26 2015-01-29 D. Swarovski Kg Procédé de fixation de pierres de bijouterie

Family Cites Families (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20080163647A1 (en) * 2007-01-05 2008-07-10 Ronald Craig Rosen Arrangement for article of jewelry
DE102011010665A1 (de) * 2011-02-08 2012-08-09 W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh Schmuckstück mit einem Schmuckelement sowie ein Verfahren zur Herstellung eines derartigen Schmuckstücks

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5044123A (en) 1990-03-22 1991-09-03 Douglas Hoffman Concave-convex faceting method and apparatus
US6006548A (en) * 1996-09-12 1999-12-28 M. Fabrikant & Sons, Ltd. Facet cut structure for gemstones to enhance brilliance
EP1869991A1 (fr) 2006-06-23 2007-12-26 D. Swarovski & Co. Objet d'ornement en verre
DE102011051084A1 (de) * 2011-06-15 2012-12-20 Gabriele Weinmann Verfahren zur Bearbeitung von Schmuckkörpern
DE102011119270A1 (de) * 2011-11-24 2013-05-29 Gabriele Weinmann Gegenstände mit dekorativen Teilen
WO2015010142A1 (fr) 2013-07-26 2015-01-29 D. Swarovski Kg Procédé de fixation de pierres de bijouterie

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CH717995A1 (fr) * 2020-10-28 2022-04-29 Richemont Int Sa Pierre taillée pour pièce de bijouterie, de joaillerie ou d'horlogerie.
EP3991592A1 (fr) 2020-10-28 2022-05-04 Richemont International S.A. Pierre taillee pour piece de bijouterie, de joaillerie ou d'horlogerie

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