EP3418068B1 - Bijou et outil ainsi que procédé de fabrication de bijou - Google Patents

Bijou et outil ainsi que procédé de fabrication de bijou Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3418068B1
EP3418068B1 EP18172563.1A EP18172563A EP3418068B1 EP 3418068 B1 EP3418068 B1 EP 3418068B1 EP 18172563 A EP18172563 A EP 18172563A EP 3418068 B1 EP3418068 B1 EP 3418068B1
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Prior art keywords
optical elements
piece
jewellery
case
angle
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EP18172563.1A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP3418068A1 (fr
Inventor
Lukas Grewenig
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Individual
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Individual
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A44C17/043—Setting-tools
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C15/00—Other forms of jewellery
    • A44C15/004—Jewellery with monograms or other inscription
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C27/00—Making jewellery or other personal adornments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C9/00—Finger-rings
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B44—DECORATIVE ARTS
    • B44B—MACHINES, APPARATUS OR TOOLS FOR ARTISTIC WORK, e.g. FOR SCULPTURING, GUILLOCHING, CARVING, BRANDING, INLAYING
    • B44B11/00—Artists' hand tools for sculpturing, kneading, carving, engraving, guilloching or embossing; Accessories therefor
    • B44B11/04—Artists' hand tools for sculpturing, kneading, carving, engraving, guilloching or embossing; Accessories therefor for embossing
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B44—DECORATIVE ARTS
    • B44C—PRODUCING DECORATIVE EFFECTS; MOSAICS; TARSIA WORK; PAPERHANGING
    • B44C1/00—Processes, not specifically provided for elsewhere, for producing decorative surface effects
    • B44C1/24—Pressing or stamping ornamental designs on surfaces
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B44—DECORATIVE ARTS
    • B44F—SPECIAL DESIGNS OR PICTURES
    • B44F1/00—Designs or pictures characterised by special or unusual light effects
    • B44F1/02—Designs or pictures characterised by special or unusual light effects produced by reflected light, e.g. matt surfaces, lustrous surfaces
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C25/00—Miscellaneous fancy ware for personal wear, e.g. pendants, crosses, crucifixes, charms
    • A44C25/005—Crosses or crucifixes

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a piece of jewelry made of a precious metal or gem stone material according to the preamble of claim 1 and a tool and a method for producing the piece of jewelry.
  • the piece of jewelry can in particular be made of a gold, silver or platinum alloy or of precious stones, semi-precious stones or artificial stones.
  • the piece of jewelry has a visible surface, such as, in particular, a molded, turned and / or possibly reworked noble metal surface or a ground facet, a large number of first optical elements being provided on the surface, which serve to generate light effects.
  • the light effects can be formed, for example, by reflection or dispersion of incident light.
  • EP 0648445 A1 describes an arrangement of a plurality of optical elements in the form of grooves on the surface of gemstones.
  • the optical elements serve to increase the optical properties of the gemstone by dispersing the incident light.
  • a disadvantage of the known gemstones is that the optical effect that can be produced by the grooves is relatively small.
  • DE 69814926 T2 describes a possible structure of a retroreflective article for the vehicle sector with an improved signal effect.
  • the article has two superimposed surfaces with different optical properties, the lower surface having retroreflective areas and, for this purpose, optically differently acting separation areas.
  • EP 0659590 A1 describes a method for introducing, for example, decorative structuring of metal surfaces.
  • the structuring is embossed into a surface using its appropriately preformed plastic film.
  • the object of the invention is to avoid the disadvantages mentioned in a piece of jewelry and to produce more intensive and individual optical effects.
  • the first optical elements each have an arrangement of reflection surfaces which are embedded in the surface of the noble metal or gem stone material, it being possible to generate a retroreflection by means of the arrangement.
  • This direct incorporation of the optical elements into the surface of the noble metal material or the gem stone material means that particularly intense light effects can be generated by means of the retroreflective effect of the individual reflection surface arrangements. In this way, intense lighting effects can be achieved, in particular on jewelry made of precious metal and on the facets of polished gemstones, which convey a particularly high value.
  • the light effects can achieve an individual optical effect by arranging the optical elements appropriately in certain areas of the surface.
  • second optical elements are additionally embedded in the surface of the noble metal or gem stone material, which produce a different optical effect than the first optical elements. This makes it possible, for example, to activate either the optical effect of the first optical elements or that of the second optical elements as a function of the orientation of the piece of jewelry or as a function of an angle of incidence of light and thereby achieve different optical effects.
  • the first optical elements and the second optical elements each at least partially form a grid that extends over the surface.
  • a uniform distribution of the optical elements of the surface is achieved, so that in the relevant areas, a uniformly distributed optical effect of the light effects can also be guaranteed.
  • the grid distribution of the optical elements provides a higher-quality impression of the surface in the absence of lighting effects.
  • the second optical elements have a different reflection range from the first optical elements.
  • the second optical elements can also be designed such that they do not generate retroreflection. This enables a clear demarcation of the areas in which certain light effects are generated by retroreflection from other areas.
  • the contrast of the optically differently acting first optical elements compared to the second optical elements can be used to generate a graphic object, such as a symbol, a sign, a brand or an ornament.
  • a graphic object such as a symbol, a sign, a brand or an ornament.
  • the graphic object can be perceived or not depending on the incidence of light. In this way it is possible to determine a predetermined orientation of the piece of jewelry or predetermined lighting conditions, depending on which the optical effects appear.
  • the first optical elements advantageously delimit first openings and the second optical elements second openings on the surface, the first openings and the second openings having a matching geometry and size. These matching openings allow despite the different optical effect of the first and second optical elements a harmonious, uniform incorporation of the grid in the surface. In this way, a high-quality effect of the piece of jewelry can be maintained.
  • first openings and the second openings are hexagonal, as a result of which the optical elements can be embedded in the surface with particularly small distances.
  • the reflection surface arrangement of the first optical elements each has six first facet surfaces, of which two adjacent facet surfaces each enclose a circumferential angle of 60 ° at an opening edge around a main axis of the first optical element.
  • the six first facet surfaces preferably have three first main facets that are at an angle of rotation of 120 ° to each other and each enclose an angle between 53.7 ° and 55.7 ° with a normal plane spanned perpendicular to the main axis of the respective first optical element.
  • This geometry of the reflection surface arrangement of the first optical elements embedded in the surface achieves a retroreflective effect over a relatively large reflection area.
  • the six first facet surfaces have three first secondary facets between the first main facets, each of which enclose an angle between five and 15 ° with the normal plane.
  • the retroreflective effect of the first optical elements can be further enhanced by such a design of the first secondary facets.
  • the reflective surface arrangement of the second optical elements also has six second facet surfaces, of which two adjacent facet surfaces each enclose a circumferential angle of 60 ° at the opening edge around the main axis of the second optical element.
  • the six second facet surfaces preferably also have three second main facets which are at an angle of rotation of 120 ° to one another and which each enclose an angle between 48 ° and 52 ° with the normal plane.
  • the second optical elements on the surface have a shape that largely corresponds to the first optical elements, so that the surface can be shaped uniformly over the extent of all optical elements and can thereby achieve a high-quality effect.
  • the second optical elements have a different reflection area than the first optical elements, so that a different optical effect can be achieved on the surface in the areas of the first optical elements depending on the incidence of light than in the areas of the second optical elements.
  • the six second facet surfaces between the second main facets have three second secondary facets, each enclosing an angle between 53.7 ° and 55.7 ° with the normal plane. In this way, the retroreflective effect of the second optical elements can also be enhanced.
  • the above-mentioned object is achieved with a tool for producing a piece of jewelry in one of the above-mentioned embodiments, the tool having a shaped tip, the surface geometry of which is shaped complementarily to the arrangement of the reflection surfaces of the optical element to be produced, and which is used as a press-in or impact tip for cold deformation the surface is formed.
  • the optical elements can thus be embedded simply and precisely into the surface of a piece of jewelry to be processed.
  • the shaped tip is held on a shaft which has a force transmission end facing away from the shaped tip.
  • the tool can be used in the manner of a punching iron or a machine tool, which is subjected to a force at the end of the force transmission by means of a hammer or by means of the tool holder of a machine, by the arrangement of the reflecting surfaces in the surface of the piece of jewelery which is predetermined by the shape tip Hit or press or to hallmark it.
  • the shaped tip is preferably made of tungsten carbide or diamond in order to ensure a hardness which enables multiple incorporation of the reflective surface arrangement of the respective optical element to be manufactured in precious metal material or in gemstones with the help of the same shaped tip.
  • the above-mentioned object is protected by a method for producing a piece of jewelry in one of the above-mentioned embodiments, in which the visible surface is produced in a first step, such as in particular by molding, turning, grinding and / or other surface treatment.
  • a second step several first optical elements, each with a retroreflective arrangement of reflection surfaces, are then worked into the surface by cold-working the surface.
  • This also makes it possible to subsequently create the desired lighting effects on the surface of a piece of jewelry by incorporating the optical elements.
  • the second optical elements are additionally incorporated by cold-working the surface. As a result, the effects that can be produced by the second optical elements can also be subsequently provided on a piece of jewelry.
  • the incorporation of the first optical elements and / or the second optical elements is carried out by means of at least one computer-controlled cold-forming tool, whereby particularly precise incorporation of the individual optical elements is possible.
  • the optical elements are advantageously arranged in a grid-like manner on the surface in order to produce a uniform surface structure. It is advantageous if only the first optical elements or only the second optical elements are incorporated across the surface area of a graphic element to be generated within the rastering, in order thereby to provide a clear contrast during the retroreflection of the one optical element compared to the other optical elements and thereby ensure the perceptibility of the graphic element.
  • Fig. 1 shows a section of a piece of jewelry 2, which is formed by way of example by a jewelry ring, such as a finger ring or a bangle.
  • the piece of jewelry 2 is made of a noble metal material, such as in particular a gold or silver alloy, and forms a visible surface 4.
  • the piece of jewelry 2 could also have any other known shape or be formed by a gem in which the visible surface 4 is formed, for example, by a ground facet.
  • Figure 1 it can be seen in the surface 4 a plurality of first optical elements 6 and second optical elements 8 incorporated, which extend in the form of a grid 10 over part of the surface 4.
  • both the first optical elements 6 and the second optical elements 8 each have an arrangement of reflection surfaces 12, 20 which are embedded in the surface 4.
  • the first optical elements 6 each form a hexagonal first opening 14 in the surface 4, from the opening edge 16 of which six first facet surfaces 18 extend into the precious metal material of the piece of jewelry 2. These facet surfaces 18 are incorporated into the noble metal material around a main axis A of the first optical element 6 in such a way that two adjacent facet surfaces 18 each enclose a circumferential angle U of approximately 60 ° at the opening edge 16.
  • the first facet surfaces 18 have three first main facets 18 A, which are at an angle of rotation UH of 120 ° to one another, one of three first secondary facets 18 B being arranged between each two main facets 18 A.
  • the first main facets 18 A each enclose an angle WH1 between 53.7 and 55.7 ° with a normal plane E spanned perpendicular to the main axis A.
  • the first secondary facets 18 B form an angle WN1 between 5 ° and 15 ° with the normal plane E.
  • the first optical elements 6 have a retroreflective function in which a light L, whose light incidence angle LW with respect to the surface 4 lies in a predetermined reflection range, is reflected directly back to the light source. In this way, the first optical elements 6 can be used to generate special light effects, such as, in particular, intense sparkling.
  • the second reflection surface arrangement 20 of the second optical elements 8 also forms in the surface 4 a hexagonal second opening 22, from the opening edge 24 six second facet surfaces 26 extend into the precious metal material of the piece of jewelry 2. These facet surfaces 26 are also incorporated into the noble metal material around a main axis A of the second optical element 8, so that two adjacent facet surfaces 26 each enclose a circumferential angle U of approximately 60 ° at the opening edge 24.
  • the second facet surfaces 26 also have three second main facets 26 A, which are at an angle of rotation UH of 120 ° to one another, one of three second secondary facets 26 B being arranged between each two main facets 26 A.
  • the second main facets 26 A each enclose an angle WH2 between 48 and 52 ° with the normal plane E spanned perpendicular to the main axis A.
  • the second secondary facets 26 B form an angle WN2 of between 53.7 ° and 55.7 ° with the normal plane E.
  • the second optical elements 8 Due to this geometry of the second reflection surface arrangement 20, the second optical elements 8 have a reflection property that differs from the first optical elements 6.
  • the retroreflective effect is generated in a different reflection area, so that depending on the angle of incidence LW on the surface 4, either the first optical elements 6 or the second optical elements can produce a retroreflective effect.
  • the graphic object G which in Fig. 1 is represented by way of example as a cross, can in this case be formed, for example, by at least one ornament, a symbol, a brand or any other sign or character.
  • the first optical elements 6 or their reflective surface arrangement 12 are incorporated in a further process step by cold-forming processing.
  • the shaped tip 32 which is preferably made of tungsten carbide or diamond, is held on a shaft 34 which has a force application end 36 facing away from the shaped tip 32.
  • the tool 30 can be subjected to a force by means of a tool holder 38 of a machine 42 controlled by a computer 40 in order to drive the mold tip 32 repeatedly into the surface 4.
  • the incorporation of the raster 10 of the first optical elements 4 in the surface 4 can be produced very precisely.
  • the incorporation is also carried out with a second tool 44 according to FIG Figure 5 which, apart from a second shaped tip 46 which is adapted to the geometry of the second reflective surface arrangement 20 of the second optical elements 6, has a structure which corresponds to that of the first tool 30.
  • This second tool 44 can also be used as shown by means of the computer-controlled machine 42 or manually.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)

Claims (15)

  1. Article de bijouterie (2) composé d'un matériau en pierre précieuse ou en métal précieux
    comprenant une surface visible (4), dans lequel une pluralité de premiers éléments optiques (6) est prévue sur ladite surface (4) pour obtenir des effets de lumière,
    caractérisé en ce que les premiers éléments optiques (6) présentent respectivement un agencement de faces réfléchissantes (12) encastrées dans la surface (4) du matériau en pierre précieuse ou en métal précieux, au moyen desquelles une rétroréflexion peut être obtenue,
    et à côté des premiers éléments optiques (6) rétroréfléchissants, des deuxièmes éléments optiques (8) supplémentaires à effet optique variable sont encastrés dans la surface (4) du matériau en pierre précieuse ou en métal précieux.
  2. Article de bijouterie selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que les premiers éléments optiques (6) et les deuxièmes éléments optiques (8) sont respectivement une partie d'un quadrillage (10) réparti sur la surface (4) et les deuxièmes éléments optiques (8) présentent une zone de réflexion différente par rapport aux premiers éléments optiques (6).
  3. Article de bijouterie selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce que les deuxièmes éléments optiques (8) ne génèrent aucune réflexion.
  4. Article de bijouterie selon l'une des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisé en ce que, par l'effet variable optique des premiers éléments (6) par rapport aux deuxièmes éléments optiques (8), un objet graphique (G) est obtenu, qui peut être perçu, ou non, en fonction d'un angle d'incidence lumineux (LW) par rapport à la surface (4).
  5. Article de bijouterie selon l'une des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisé en ce que les premiers éléments optiques (6) délimitent des premières ouvertures (14) sur la surface (4) et les deuxièmes éléments optiques (8) délimitent des deuxièmes ouvertures (22) sur la surface (4), et les premières ouvertures (14) et les deuxièmes ouvertures (22) présentent une géométrie et une taille concordantes dans le plan de la surface (4).
  6. Article de bijouterie selon la revendication 5, caractérisé en ce que les premières ouvertures (14) et les deuxièmes ouvertures (22) sont hexagonales.
  7. Article de bijouterie selon l'une des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisé en ce que le premier agencement de faces réfléchissantes (12) des premiers éléments optiques (6) présente respectivement six premières facettes (18), qui sont agencées sur un premier bord d'ouverture (16) dans un angle de rotation (U) de respectivement 60° autour d'un axe principal (A).
  8. Article de bijouterie selon la revendication 7, caractérisé en ce que les six premières facettes (18) présentent trois premières facettes principales (18A) situées dans un angle de rotation (UH) de respectivement de 120° l'une par rapport à l'autre, les facettes principales formant respectivement un angle (WH1) compris entre 53,7° et 55,7° avec un plan normal (E) perpendiculaire par rapport à l'axe principal (A) des premiers éléments optiques respectifs, et les six premières facettes (18) présentent entre les premières facettes principales (18A) trois premières facettes secondaires (18B), qui forment respectivement un angle (WN1) compris entre 5° et 15° avec le plan normal (E).
  9. Article de bijouterie selon l'une des revendications 1 à 8, caractérisé en ce que le deuxième agencement de faces réfléchissantes (20) des deuxièmes éléments optiques (8) présentent respectivement six deuxièmes facettes (26), qui sont agencées les unes par rapport aux autres sur un deuxième bord d'ouverture (24) dans un angle de rotation (U) de respectivement 60° autour de l'axe de rotation (A)
  10. Article de bijouterie selon la revendication 9, caractérisé en ce que les six deuxièmes facettes (26) présentent trois deuxièmes facettes principales (26A) situées dans un angle de rotation (UH) de respectivement de 120° l'une par rapport à l'autre, les facettes principales formant respectivement un angle (WH2) compris entre 48° et 52° avec le plan normal (E) et les six deuxièmes facettes (26) présentent entre les trois deuxièmes facettes principales (26A) trois deuxièmes facettes secondaires (26B), qui forment respectivement un angle (WN2) compris entre 53,7° et 55,7° avec le plan normal (E).
  11. Outil (30) pour la fabrication d'un article de bijouterie (2) selon l'une des revendications 1 à 10, caractérisé en ce que l'outil (30) présente une tête profilée (32) dont la géométrie de surface est formée de manière complémentaire à l'agencement des faces réfléchissantes (12 ;20) des éléments optiques (6 ; 8) à fabriquer respectifs et la tête est réalisée comme une tête à percussion ou une tête à estampage pour le formage à froid de la surface (4).
  12. Outil selon la revendication 11, caractérisé en ce que, la tête profilée (32) est maintenue sur un arbre (34), qui présente une extrémité d'application de force (36) opposée à celle de la tête profilée (32) et la tête profilée (32) est fabriquée à partir de carbure de tungstène ou de diamant.
  13. Procédé de fabrication d'un article de bijouterie (2) selon l'une des revendications 1 à 10, au cours duquel la surface visible (4) est fabriquée dans une première étape caractérisé en ce que
    au cours d'une deuxième étape consécutive par le traitement de formage à froid, les premiers éléments optiques (6) comprenant respectivement un agencement rétroréfléchissant de faces réfléchissantes (12) sont encastrés dans la surface (4),
    et dans la deuxième ou une étape consécutive, au voisinage des premiers éléments optiques (6), des deuxièmes éléments optiques (8) supplémentaires sont encastrés dans la surface (4) par un traitement de formage à froid.
  14. Procédé selon la revendication 13, caractérisé en ce que les premiers éléments optiques (6) et/ou les deuxièmes éléments optiques (8) sont encastrés dans la surface (4) au moyen au moins d'un outil de formage à froid commandé par ordinateur.
  15. Procédé selon la revendication 13 ou 14, caractérisé en ce que les éléments optiques (6 ; 8) sont agencés sur la surface (4) en forme de quadrillage, et seulement les premiers éléments optiques (6) ou seulement les deuxièmes éléments optiques (8) sont incorporés par le dessus sur des faces d'un intérieur du quadrillage (10) pour obtenir un élément graphique (G).
EP18172563.1A 2017-06-22 2018-05-16 Bijou et outil ainsi que procédé de fabrication de bijou Active EP3418068B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE202017103704.5U DE202017103704U1 (de) 2017-06-22 2017-06-22 Schmuckstück und Werkzeug zur Herstellung des Schmuckstücks

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EP3418068A1 EP3418068A1 (fr) 2018-12-26
EP3418068B1 true EP3418068B1 (fr) 2020-02-19

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DE102018120813B4 (de) * 2018-08-27 2020-03-05 Meissner Ag Modell- Und Werkzeugfabrik Computergestütztes Verfahren für die Punzierung einer Oberfläche eines Werkstücks sowie eine entsprechende Vorrichtung

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH07108007A (ja) 1993-10-13 1995-04-25 Daiwa Kako Kk 装飾品

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