EP2456416A1 - Préparation cosmétique contenant des acylarginates - Google Patents

Préparation cosmétique contenant des acylarginates

Info

Publication number
EP2456416A1
EP2456416A1 EP10720268A EP10720268A EP2456416A1 EP 2456416 A1 EP2456416 A1 EP 2456416A1 EP 10720268 A EP10720268 A EP 10720268A EP 10720268 A EP10720268 A EP 10720268A EP 2456416 A1 EP2456416 A1 EP 2456416A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
cosmetic
weight
emulsions
preparations
arginates
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
EP10720268A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Manuela Köhler
Antonia Wagner
Kerstin Skubsch
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP2456416A1 publication Critical patent/EP2456416A1/fr
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • Cosmetic preparation containing acylarginates The present invention relates to cosmetic preparations containing acylarginates.
  • Cosmetics can be used to summarize all measures that, for esthetic reasons, make changes to the skin and hair or are used for body cleansing. Cosmetics, then, means to care for, improve and beautify the outer body in order to please the fellow human being as well as oneself in a visible, tangible and smelly way. Thousands of years ago people used cosmetics for this purpose. One colored lips and face, anointed itself with valuable oils and bathed in fragrant water.
  • sensors refers to the scientific discipline that deals with the evaluation of cosmetic preparations on the basis of sensory impressions.
  • BESTATIGUNGSKOPIE summarizes. The sensory evaluation of a cosmetic is based on the visual, olfactory and haptic impressions.
  • Olfactory impressions all odor impressions perceptible when the air is drawn in through the nose, which can often be differentiated into initial odor (head note), main odor (middle note, body) and after-odor (ending). The volatiles released only after use also contribute to the olfactory impression.
  • Haptic impressions all sensations of the sense of touch, which primarily concern the structure and consistency of the product.
  • the sensory analysis makes use of the possibility of integrally capturing the sensory overall impression of a product. Disadvantages of the sensory analysis are the subjectivity of the impression, an easy influenceability of the test persons and the resulting strong dispersion of the results. These weaknesses are today countered by the use of groups of trained test persons, mutual screening of the examiners and statistical analysis of the most numerous analysis data.
  • the most commonly used method of sensory analysis in research and development is difference testing.
  • the task is usually limited to the detection of a sample deviating from several samples or a control sample. While only two samples are compared for difference tests within a test, the order of precedence is to determine an order of three or more samples, usually according to intensity, quality, popularity or similarity with a reference sample.
  • This (simple) method is suitable for. For example, for a preselection of samples in product optimization and is also often used in market research.
  • Adhesion Required force to remove the specimen from a surface
  • Geometric properties Perception of the particles (size, shape, orientation) by means of a probe
  • Moisture Properties Perception of water, oil, fat, measured by feeler, Moisture: amount of wetness / oilyness, if not sure if it is oil and / or water, Moisture Delivery: amount of moisture / oiliness emitted oily: amount of liquid fat
  • the subjects are selected based on the ability to distinguish known structural differences in the specific product application for which the subjects are to be trained (solid foods, beverages, semi-solid bodies, skin care products, fabrics, paper, etc.). As with most other descriptive analysis techniques, the subjects are interviewed to determine interest, availability and attitudes.
  • the subjects selected for training are exposed to a wide range of products of the category under study in order to have a broad reference system.
  • the subjects are introduced to the underlying structural principle involved in the structure of the products under investigation. This learning experience provides the subjects with an understanding of the terms mechanical input forces and resulting stress on the product.
  • subjects can avoid lengthy discussions about redundant expressions and select the most technically appropriate and descriptive terms for evaluating products.
  • Subjects also define all expressions and procedures for evaluation and thus partially reduce the variability of most descriptive tests.
  • the reference keys used in training the test persons can be used later as reference points for approximate scale values, further reducing the variability of the subjects.
  • the specimens are independently evaluated by each subject using one of the scaling techniques discussed above.
  • the Original Texture Profile method used an extended 13-point version of the aroma profile scale.
  • the assessments of the subjects may be based on a group consensus, such as the
  • Flavor profile method or from a statistical analysis of the data.
  • the data can be shown in tabular or graphical form.
  • preparations which, in addition to the criteria customary for cosmetics, such as compatibility, storage stability and the like, also provide the consumer with essential, hitherto unknown cosmetic services.
  • the preparations sought should be suitable for use in the personal care sector, ie. H. when used on the whole body (and thus in contrast to a pure face care application in a relatively large amount) are suitable, but at the same time be sensory attractive for use in the facial area. This manifests itself in particular in a good dispersibility, a rapid absorption and in a rich and nourishing appearance.
  • the contact angle measurement (described in Cosmetics & Toiletries, 01/2007, VoI 122 No.1, page 20-27 "Correlating Water Contact Angles and Moisturization /) is suitable as a measuring method for characterizing various formulations with regard to light skin feel, simple distribution and non-greasy sensor technology. Sensory Claims ”)
  • acylarginates such as lauroyl arginate (LAE, ethyl lauroyl arginate HCl, CAS 60372-77-2) the contact angle of a sunscreen formulation is smaller than without. From this it can be concluded that the sensor technology of the formulation is better than without lauroylarginate.
  • LAE lauroyl arginate
  • the preparations according to the invention can advantageously be water-in-oil emulsions, particularly preferably oil-in-water emulsions.
  • Preparations according to the invention preferably contain the acylarginates of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the cosmetic preparations according to the invention may be composed as usual and used for the treatment and / or care of the skin and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations according to the invention may be composed as usual and used for the treatment of the skin and / or the hair in the sense of a dermatological treatment or a treatment in the sense of nourishing cosmetics. But they can also be used in make-up products in decorative cosmetics.
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics and dermatological agents.
  • a content of antioxidants is generally advantageous.
  • the amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is then preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the emulsions used in the context of the invention can be based on one or more of the following emulsifiers.
  • Glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate (self-emulsifying), stearic acid, stearate salts, polyglyceryl-3-methylglycose distearate, ceteareth-20, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, sucrose polystearates in combination with hydrogenated polyisobutene, sodium stearoyl glutamate, cetearyl alcohol in combination with PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Glyceryl Stearate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Polyglyceryl-3 Sorbitan Stearates, Silicone Polyether Copolymers such as PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-14/4 Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and / or Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Ceteareth-n with n 5- 50, sorbitan oleates, distearyl
  • oils such as triglycerides in general and in particular capric or caprylic acids, and also natural oils, such as castor oil; Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fatty substances, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, for example with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;
  • Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes, disiloxanes dimethicones, and mixed forms thereof.
  • the oil phase of the emulsions in the context of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group consisting of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2 Hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, octyl palmitate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, octyl dodecyl myr
  • dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates in particular.
  • the preparations according to the invention very particularly advantageously contain moisturizers, such as, for example, glycerol, in particular in concentrations of about 2-50% by weight, the preferred embodiments being glycerol contents of 25-35 - very particularly preferably about 30% by weight. Distinguish%.
  • glycerol contents of about 70% by weight without any cosmetic or physical disadvantages having to be accepted.
  • moisturizers in the context of the invention are: urea and derivatives of urea (for example Hydrovance (R)), lactic acid, hyaluronic acidide, AHAs, EHAs, sodium salt of pyroglutamic acid, xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoine, chitosan and corresponding derivatives of the compounds mentioned.
  • Suitable propellants for preparations according to the invention which can be sprayed from aerosol are the customary known highly volatile, liquefied propellants, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or mixed with one another. Also, compressed air is advantageous to use.
  • hydrocarbons propane, butane, isobutane
  • preparations according to the invention may also contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB and / or UVA range, the total amount of the filter substances being, for example, 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight. %, in particular 1, 0 to 6.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, to provide cosmetic preparations that protect the hair or the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for hair or skin.
  • the cosmetic preparations according to the invention may furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers and / or siloxane elastomers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or enhance a velvety or silky feel on the skin.
  • Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives, pigments which have neither primarily a UV filter effect nor a coloring effect (such as. For example, boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosils ® (CAS no. 7631-86-9 ) and / or talc.
  • tapioca starch distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch octenylsuccinate and the like, polymethylsilkenquioxanes, emulsifying silicone elastomers, non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, polymethylmethacrylates, polymethylmethacrylate crosspolymer, polyamides, nylon, polyethylene powder, polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, polysaccharides or their derivatives, eg. B.
  • cellulose and cellulose derivatives for example hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, polymers from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopols, for example Carbopols types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.
  • carbopols for example Carbopols types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.
  • Further thickeners which are advantageous according to the invention are those having the INCI name Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer (eg Pemulen TR 1, Pemulen TR 2, Carbopol 1328 from NOVEON) and Aristoflex AVC (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer) and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and acrylic acid, PEG-10 dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, nylon-66, poly C10-30 alkyl acrylates, gums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, phyllosilicates, polyacrylates and / or other polymers,.
  • INCI name Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer eg Pemulen TR 1, Pemulen TR 2, Carbopol 1328 from NOVEON
  • Aristoflex AVC Iristoflex AVC
  • Polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols. Gum arabic, locust bean gum, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algine, chondrus, xanthan gum, derivatized gums such as hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar® HP 8), chitin and chitosan, chondroitin sulfates, starch and starch derivatives, Montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Veegum®. These can be used as such or in modified form, such as stearylalkonium hectorites. Furthermore, it is also advantageous to use silica gels. The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L’invention concerne des émulsions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques contenant un ou plusieurs acylarginates de la formule ci-après, dans laquelle R peut adopter des valeurs de 5 à 17 et représente de préférence une chaîne alkyle non ramifiée de 11 atomes de C (= arginate de lauroyle).
EP10720268A 2009-07-20 2010-05-05 Préparation cosmétique contenant des acylarginates Ceased EP2456416A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102009034115A DE102009034115A1 (de) 2009-07-20 2009-07-20 Kosmetische Zubereitung mit einem Gehalt an Acylarginaten
PCT/EP2010/002738 WO2011009505A1 (fr) 2009-07-20 2010-05-05 Préparation cosmétique contenant des acylarginates

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2456416A1 true EP2456416A1 (fr) 2012-05-30

Family

ID=42314803

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP10720268A Ceased EP2456416A1 (fr) 2009-07-20 2010-05-05 Préparation cosmétique contenant des acylarginates

Country Status (4)

Country Link
US (1) US20120142788A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP2456416A1 (fr)
DE (1) DE102009034115A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2011009505A1 (fr)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102010007958A1 (de) * 2010-02-12 2011-08-18 Beiersdorf AG, 20253 Wirkstoffkombinationen aus Acylarginaten und quaternären Ammoniumverbindungen
DE102010013272A1 (de) * 2010-03-29 2011-09-29 Beiersdorf Ag Mikrobiologisch stabile anwendungsfreundliche Zubereitung mit Verdickern
DE102010044682A1 (de) * 2010-09-08 2012-03-08 Beiersdorf Ag Emulsion mit UV-Schutz
DE102011089407A1 (de) 2011-12-21 2013-06-27 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Konservierungsmittelzusammensetzungen und Kosmetika enthaltend diese
GB201215054D0 (en) * 2012-08-23 2012-10-10 Unilever Plc Mild foaming make-up remover composition
DE102013208483A1 (de) * 2013-05-08 2014-11-13 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetisches oder dermatologisches Aerosol Gel
US20210338545A1 (en) * 2018-08-10 2021-11-04 Shiseido Company, Ltd. Emulsion cosmetic
WO2020032242A1 (fr) 2018-08-10 2020-02-13 株式会社 資生堂 Produit cosmétique à base d'huile
WO2021102715A1 (fr) * 2019-11-27 2021-06-03 Beiersdorf Daily Chemical (Wuhan) Co. Ltd. Composition de conditionnement
WO2022212808A1 (fr) * 2021-04-02 2022-10-06 OWA Haircare, Inc. Produit traitant sous forme pulvérulente à écoulement libre

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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2011009505A1 (fr) 2011-01-27
DE102009034115A1 (de) 2011-01-27
US20120142788A1 (en) 2012-06-07

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