EP2456416A1

EP2456416A1 - Cosmetic preparation having containing acyl arginates

Info

Publication number: EP2456416A1
Application number: EP10720268A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Manuela Köhler; Antonia Wagner; Kerstin Skubsch
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 2009-07-20
Filing date: 2010-05-05
Publication date: 2012-05-30
Also published as: WO2011009505A1; DE102009034115A1; US20120142788A1

Abstract

The invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological emulsions containing one or more acyl arginates of the formula wherein R can assume values from 5 to 17 and is preferably an unbranched alkyl chain of 11 C atoms (= lauroyl arginate).

Description

Description Cosmetic preparation containing acylarginates The present invention relates to cosmetic preparations containing acylarginates.

Cosmetics can be used to summarize all measures that, for esthetic reasons, make changes to the skin and hair or are used for body cleansing. Cosmetics, then, means to care for, improve and beautify the outer body in order to please the fellow human being as well as oneself in a visible, tangible and smelly way. Thousands of years ago people used cosmetics for this purpose. One colored lips and face, anointed itself with valuable oils and bathed in fragrant water.

While the cleaning effect of a shampoo, the improvement in combability of a hair conditioner or the curling of the hair by a permanent wave are simple and objectively detectable, other effects and properties of cosmetic products are practically not measurable or can only be felt very individually. These include, for example, a certain (invigorating, soft, supple, smooth, etc.) skin sensation or the softness and smoothness of the skin after the application of a cosmetic, as well as the fullness and bounce of the hair and the like. Furthermore, the expectation of consumers is also subject to ancillary properties of the product. Here are in particular the fragrance and the color of the Kosmetikums as well as its packing, the price, the manufacturer and the advertising statement to call.

The term "sensorics" refers to the scientific discipline that deals with the evaluation of cosmetic preparations on the basis of sensory impressions.

BESTATIGUNGSKOPIE summarizes. The sensory evaluation of a cosmetic is based on the visual, olfactory and haptic impressions.

• Visual impressions: all features perceptible with the eye (color, shape, structure).

• Olfactory impressions: all odor impressions perceptible when the air is drawn in through the nose, which can often be differentiated into initial odor (head note), main odor (middle note, body) and after-odor (ending). The volatiles released only after use also contribute to the olfactory impression.

• Haptic impressions: all sensations of the sense of touch, which primarily concern the structure and consistency of the product.

The sensory analysis makes use of the possibility of integrally capturing the sensory overall impression of a product. Disadvantages of the sensory analysis are the subjectivity of the impression, an easy influenceability of the test persons and the resulting strong dispersion of the results. These weaknesses are today countered by the use of groups of trained test persons, mutual screening of the examiners and statistical analysis of the most numerous analysis data.

The most commonly used method of sensory analysis in research and development is difference testing. The task is usually limited to the detection of a sample deviating from several samples or a control sample. While only two samples are compared for difference tests within a test, the order of precedence is to determine an order of three or more samples, usually according to intensity, quality, popularity or similarity with a reference sample. This (simple) method is suitable for. For example, for a preselection of samples in product optimization and is also often used in market research.

The components of the texture can be described as follows:

Mechanical properties :: Reaction to stress, kinesthetically measured Hardness: force to achieve a given deformation

Tightness: degree to which the specimen deforms

Adhesion: Required force to remove the specimen from a surface

Density: compactness of the cross section

Food skin care substances

dense / heavy dense / heavy fullness / tender

airy / fluffy / slightly airy / light

Elasticity return rate to the initial state after some deformation

Food skin care substances

elastic, rubbery elastic elastic

Geometric properties: Perception of the particles (size, shape, orientation) by means of a probe

Smoothness: no particles present

gritty: small hard particles

grainy: small particles

chalky / powdery: fine particles (film)

Fibrous: long sinewy particles (pulp)

lumpy / uneven: large, even parts or protrusions Moisture Properties: Perception of water, oil, fat, measured by feeler, Moisture: amount of wetness / oilyness, if not sure if it is oil and / or water, Moisture Delivery: amount of moisture / oiliness emitted oily: amount of liquid fat

greasy: amount of solid fat In all cases the terminology is specific to each product type, but it is based on the underlying rheological properties according to the first texture profile publications (Szczesniak, 1963: Szczesniak et al., 1963, Brandt et al., 1963). ,

The subjects are selected based on the ability to distinguish known structural differences in the specific product application for which the subjects are to be trained (solid foods, beverages, semi-solid bodies, skin care products, fabrics, paper, etc.). As with most other descriptive analysis techniques, the subjects are interviewed to determine interest, availability and attitudes.

The subjects selected for training are exposed to a wide range of products of the category under study in order to have a broad reference system. In addition, the subjects are introduced to the underlying structural principle involved in the structure of the products under investigation. This learning experience provides the subjects with an understanding of the terms mechanical input forces and resulting stress on the product.

To do this, subjects can avoid lengthy discussions about redundant expressions and select the most technically appropriate and descriptive terms for evaluating products. Subjects also define all expressions and procedures for evaluation and thus partially reduce the variability of most descriptive tests. The reference keys used in training the test persons can be used later as reference points for approximate scale values, further reducing the variability of the subjects.

The specimens are independently evaluated by each subject using one of the scaling techniques discussed above.

The Original Texture Profile method used an extended 13-point version of the aroma profile scale.

However, in recent years, texture profile subjects have been trained using category, linear, and ME scales for food texture references for use with a 15-point or 15-cm linear scale). Depending on the type of scale used by the subjects and the way in which the data are to be handled, the assessments of the subjects may be based on a group consensus, such as the

Flavor profile method, or from a statistical analysis of the data. For final reports, the data can be shown in tabular or graphical form.

It was therefore an object of the present invention to find preparations which, in addition to the criteria customary for cosmetics, such as compatibility, storage stability and the like, also provide the consumer with essential, hitherto unknown cosmetic services. In particular, the preparations sought should be suitable for use in the personal care sector, ie. H. when used on the whole body (and thus in contrast to a pure face care application in a relatively large amount) are suitable, but at the same time be sensory attractive for use in the facial area. This manifests itself in particular in a good dispersibility, a rapid absorption and in a rich and nourishing appearance.

These objects are achieved according to the invention by cosmetic or dermatological emulsions containing one or more acylarginates of the formula

where R can assume values of 5 to 22 and preferably represents an unbranched alkyl chain of 11 C atoms (= lauroylarginate).

With retention of the features which characterize the present invention, it is possible to obtain cosmetically demanding emulsions which are distinguished by a highly pleasant sensory and cosmetic appearance.

The contact angle measurement (described in Cosmetics & Toiletries, 01/2007, VoI 122 No.1, page 20-27 "Correlating Water Contact Angles and Moisturization /) is suitable as a measuring method for characterizing various formulations with regard to light skin feel, simple distribution and non-greasy sensor technology. Sensory Claims ")

Surprisingly, it has now been shown that by the use of acylarginates such as lauroyl arginate (LAE, ethyl lauroyl arginate HCl, CAS 60372-77-2) the contact angle of a sunscreen formulation is smaller than without. From this it can be concluded that the sensor technology of the formulation is better than without lauroylarginate.

The preparations according to the invention can advantageously be water-in-oil emulsions, particularly preferably oil-in-water emulsions.

Preparations according to the invention preferably contain the acylarginates of from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

The preparations according to the invention are extremely satisfactory preparations in every respect. It was not foreseeable for the skilled worker that emulsions which show the properties according to the invention by the specific adjustment of pseudoplastic flow behavior (intrinsic viscosity) and thixotropy, despite a relatively high yield point In particular, let it spread very easily on the skin, quickly move in and still be very rich and nourishing.

The cosmetic preparations according to the invention may be composed as usual and used for the treatment and / or care of the skin and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.

The cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations according to the invention may be composed as usual and used for the treatment of the skin and / or the hair in the sense of a dermatological treatment or a treatment in the sense of nourishing cosmetics. But they can also be used in make-up products in decorative cosmetics.

For use, the cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics and dermatological agents.

A content of antioxidants is generally advantageous. The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is then preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The emulsions used in the context of the invention can be based on one or more of the following emulsifiers.

Glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl stearate (self-emulsifying), stearic acid, stearate salts, polyglyceryl-3-methylglycose distearate, ceteareth-20, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, sucrose polystearates in combination with hydrogenated polyisobutene, sodium stearoyl glutamate, cetearyl alcohol in combination with PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Glyceryl Stearate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Polyglyceryl-3 Sorbitan Stearates, Silicone Polyether Copolymers such as PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-14/4 Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and / or Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Ceteareth-n with n = 5- 50, sorbitan oleates, distearyldimonium chlorides, stearyl dimethicones, lecithin, sodium dihydroxycetyl phosphates, PG-10 stearates, lauryl PEG / PPG-18/18 methicones, cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone, polyglyceryl-2 caprate, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate , Cetyl Phosphate, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphine ate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearates, glyceryl isostearates, behentrimonium chlorides, cetearyl glucosides, PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicones, alkoxylated silicone emulsifiers in general, polyglycerol-derivatized silicone emulsifiers in general, polycaprolactones, sucrose polycotton ratios, acetyl trifluoromethylphenyl valylglycines, hydroxyethylpiperazines, ethane sulfonic Acid, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyranetriol, Tocopheryl Glucoside, Guanosine, Polyester-5, Tri C14-15 Alkylcitrate, PEG / PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether, Sodium Dodecylbenzene Sulfonate, Chrysanthenum Parthenium, Sodium Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, PEG-60 Glyceryl Isostearate, Succinoglycan, Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate, Dodecene, Oxothiazolidinecarboxylic Acid, Eucalyptol, Hydrogenated Myristyl Olive Esters, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol

The lipid phase can advantageously be selected from the following substance group:

Mineral oils, mineral waxes

oils, such as triglycerides in general and in particular capric or caprylic acids, and also natural oils, such as castor oil; Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fatty substances, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, for example with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids;

- alkyl and / or benzoates;

Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes, disiloxanes dimethicones, and mixed forms thereof. The oil phase of the emulsions in the context of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group consisting of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2 Hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, octyl palmitate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, octyl dodecyl myristate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, dibutyl adipate, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, stearyl heptanoate and also synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, eg Jojoba oil. Further oils which can advantageously be used for the purposes of the present invention are: dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates in particular. Dicaprylyl ether and / or dicaprylyl carbonate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate,

Propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic / capric / diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, C12-13 alkyl lactate, di-CI 2-13 alkyl tartrate, triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethylisosorbide, caprylic / capric octyldodecanol, isopropyl palmitates Ethylhexyl Cocoate, Butyrospermum Parkii, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Simmondsia Chinensis OiI, Tridecyl Stearates, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate / Hexacaprate, Lanolin Alcohol, Echium Lycopsis OiI, Shorea Robusta Butter, The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention, if present, may advantageously contain alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, -monoethyl- or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, furthermore lower C-number alcohols, eg ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol.

The preparations according to the invention very particularly advantageously contain moisturizers, such as, for example, glycerol, in particular in concentrations of about 2-50% by weight, the preferred embodiments being glycerol contents of 25-35 - very particularly preferably about 30% by weight. Distinguish%. However, it is quite possible to achieve glycerol contents of about 70% by weight without any cosmetic or physical disadvantages having to be accepted. Further moisturizers in the context of the invention are: urea and derivatives of urea (for example Hydrovance (R)), lactic acid, hyaluronic acidide, AHAs, EHAs, sodium salt of pyroglutamic acid, xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoine, chitosan and corresponding derivatives of the compounds mentioned. Collagen, plankton, extract of Imperata cylindra (Moist 24 (R)) acrylic acid homopolymers (lipidure-HM (R)) beta-glucans and their derivatives, natural oils such as apricot oil. All mentioned substances can optionally also be used encapsulated.

Suitable propellants for preparations according to the invention which can be sprayed from aerosol are the customary known highly volatile, liquefied propellants, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane), which can be used alone or mixed with one another. Also, compressed air is advantageous to use.

Advantageously, preparations according to the invention may also contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB and / or UVA range, the total amount of the filter substances being, for example, 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight. %, in particular 1, 0 to 6.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, to provide cosmetic preparations that protect the hair or the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also serve as a sunscreen for hair or skin. The cosmetic preparations according to the invention may furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers and / or siloxane elastomers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or enhance a velvety or silky feel on the skin.

Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives, pigments which have neither primarily a UV filter effect nor a coloring effect (such as. For example, boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosils ^® (CAS no. 7631-86-9 ) and / or talc. Particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention can be used: tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch octenylsuccinate and the like, polymethylsilkenquioxanes, emulsifying silicone elastomers, non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, polymethylmethacrylates, polymethylmethacrylate crosspolymer, polyamides, nylon, polyethylene powder, polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, polysaccharides or their derivatives, eg. B. cellulose and cellulose derivatives, for example hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, polymers from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopols, for example Carbopols types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination. Further thickeners which are advantageous according to the invention are those having the INCI name Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer (eg Pemulen TR 1, Pemulen TR 2, Carbopol 1328 from NOVEON) and Aristoflex AVC (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer) and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and acrylic acid, PEG-10 dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, nylon-66, poly C10-30 alkyl acrylates, gums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, phyllosilicates, polyacrylates and / or other polymers,. Polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols. Gum arabic, locust bean gum, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algine, chondrus, xanthan gum, derivatized gums such as hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar® HP 8), chitin and chitosan, chondroitin sulfates, starch and starch derivatives, Montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Veegum®. These can be used as such or in modified form, such as stearylalkonium hectorites. Furthermore, it is also advantageous to use silica gels. The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it.

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic or dermatological emulsions containing one or more acylarginates of the formula

where R can assume values of 5 to 17 and preferably represents an unbranched alkyl chain of 11 C atoms (= lauroylarginate).

2. Emulsions according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain one or more acylarginates in concentrations of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-1 wt .-% , in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

3. Emulsions according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that they are oil-in-water emulsions.

4. Emulsions according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that they are water-in-oil emulsions.

5. Emulsions according to one of Claims 1 - 3, characterized in that they contain glycerol, in particular in concentrations of about 2-50% by weight, preferably 25-35 - very particularly preferably about 30% by weight. %.