Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
  • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
  • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
  • A61K8/645—Proteins of vegetable origin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
  • A61K8/733—Alginic acid; Salts thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/90—Block copolymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/70—Biological properties of the composition as a whole

Definitions

• the present invention relates to the field of skin care and aims in particular to improve the appearance of the skin of the face and / or body.
• the invention relates in particular to a composition for topical application to the skin comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of the mechanoreceptors in the cells of the skin and at least one tensioning agent.
• the invention also relates to a skin care kit comprising (a) a first composition comprising at least one tensing agent and (b) a second composition comprising a saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in the cells of the skin.
• the invention also relates to a skin care kit comprising (a) a composition comprising a saccharide compound increasing the expression of the mechanoreceptors in the cells of the skin and (b) a tensor device for applying and / or maintaining controlled mechanical stress on the skin.
• the invention also relates to a cosmetic skin treatment method comprising the simultaneous or sequential application of said compositions, aimed in particular at smoothing wrinkles and fine lines and / or improving the firmness and / or elasticity of the skin.
• the present invention relates in particular to a cosmetic skin care method comprising the simultaneous or sequential application of: (i) a composition comprising at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of the mechanoreceptors in the cells of the skin; (ii) a tensor device for applying and / or maintaining in a controlled manner mechanical stresses on the skin.
• the method is particularly intended to smooth wrinkles and fine lines and / or improve the firmness and / or elasticity of the skin.
• the invention also relates to the cosmetic use, in a composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, of at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in the skin cells in combination with a tensioning agent, to promote the improvement of skin homeostasis, increase of skin thickness, improvement of radiance, density of skin, regeneration and / or reorganization of the papillary dermis, regeneration and or the reorganization of the extracellular matrix and / or the improvement of the firmness, elasticity and / or tonicity of the skin.
• the invention also relates to the cosmetic use, in a composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, of at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in the cells of the skin, said composition being associated with a tensor device, for to promote the improvement of skin homeostasis, the increase of skin thickness, the improvement of radiance of the complexion, the density of the skin, the regeneration and / or the reorganization of the papillary dermis, the regeneration and / or the reorganization of the extracellular matrix and / or the improvement of the firmness, elasticity and / or tonicity of the skin.
• the invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition
• a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in the skin cells in combination with a tensioning agent, to promote the improvement of skin homeostasis, increase of skin thickness, improvement of radiance, density of skin, regeneration and / or reorganization of the papillary dermis, regeneration and or the reorganization of the extracellular matrix and / or the improvement of the firmness, elasticity and / or tonicity of the skin.
• the invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a kit comprising (a) a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in the skin cells and (b) a tensor device, to promote improvement of skin homeostasis, increase of skin thickness, improvement of complexion radiance, density of skin, regeneration and / or reorganization papillary dermis, regeneration and / or reorganization of the extracellular and / or improving the firmness, elasticity and / or tone of the skin.
• a kit comprising (a) a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in the skin cells and (b) a tensor device, to promote improvement of skin homeostasis, increase of skin thickness, improvement of complexion radiance, density of skin, regeneration and / or reorganization papillary dermis, regeneration and / or reorganization of the
• the invention is particularly directed to the treatment of the skin of the face and / or the neck. But the compositions according to the invention can also be applied to the areas of the body with a loss of elasticity and / or firmness such as the belly and thighs.
• the skin is a physical barrier between the body and its environment. It consists of two tissues: the epidermis and the dermis.
• the epidermis is a keratinizing, more stratified epithelium which is constantly renewed.
• Keratinocytes are the main epidermal cell population and are responsible for maintaining the epithelial structure and its barrier function.
• the epidermis rests on an acellular basement membrane, called a dermoepidermal junction, which ensures cohesion with the dermis.
• the epidermis consists of several layers of cells, the deepest of which is the basal layer of undifferentiated cells. Over time, these cells will differentiate and migrate to the surface of the epidermis by constituting the different bases of it, to form on the surface of the epidermis corneocytes which are dead cells that eliminate by desquamation. This loss of surface is compensated by the migration of cells from the basal layer to the surface of the epidermis. This is the continuous renewal of the skin.
• the dermis is a compressible and elastic supportive connective tissue of mesodermal origin mainly composed of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix consisting of fibrous proteins (collagen and elastin), and non-fibrous proteins (proteoglycans and glycoproteins) .
• the dermis is a nourishing tissue for the epidermis but it also plays a fundamental role in the development and growth of the epidermis, as well as in its differentiation.
• the fibroblasts and the extracellular matrix also influence the mechanical properties of the skin, in particular its elasticity, tone and firmness.
• the fibroblasts and the extracellular matrix also influence the density of the skin.
• the homeostasis of the skin results from a finely regulated balance between the processes of proliferation and differentiation of skin cells. These proliferation and differentiation processes are perfectly regulated: they participate in the renewal and / or regeneration of the skin and lead to the maintenance of a constant thickness of the skin, and in particular of a constant thickness of the epidermis.
• This homeostasis of the skin also plays a role in maintaining the mechanical properties of the skin, in particular its firmness, tone and / or elasticity.
• this homeostasis of the skin can be altered by certain physiological factors (age, menopause, hormones ...), or environmental (UV stress, pollution, oxidative stress, irritating stress ).
• the regenerative potential of the epidermis becomes less important: the cells of the basal layer divide less actively, leading in particular to a slowing down and / or a decrease in epidermal renewal. Therefore, cell turnover no longer offsets the loss of cells removed on the surface, leading to epidermal atrophy and / or decreased skin thickness and / or loss of elasticity and / or tonicity and / or firmness of the skin and / or the formation of wrinkles or fine lines.
• This phenomenon can be accentuated by the menopause: women complain that their skin pulls and becomes dry, or even the appearance of xerosis.
• the hormonal deficits associated with menopause are accompanied by a decrease in metabolic activity, which could lead to a decrease in the proliferation of keratinocytes and an increase in epidermal differentiation.
• agents capable of promoting homeostasis of the skin in order to maintain and / or increase the thickness of the skin, in particular of the skin of the face and / or the neck, and thus in particular to smooth the wrinkles and fine lines and / or maintain and / or improve the mechanical properties of the skin, in particular of the skin of the face and / or the neck, in particular the firmness, elasticity and / or tone of the skin.
• soluble cosmetic agents to promote cell renewal.
• derivatives of retinoic acid and in particular retinol, also known as vitamin A, and esterified derivatives of retinol which have the effect of promoting the proliferation of keratinocytes and to inhibit their differentiation, thereby stimulating epidermal renewal, maintaining and / or increasing the thickness of the epidermis.
• Soluble cosmetic agents typically act via receptor binding that initiates intracellular responses leading to regulation of the expression of proteins involved in the proliferation and / or epidermal differentiation processes. We will speak of a direct 'biological' effect.
• the Applicant has just surprisingly and unexpectedly shown that it is possible to obtain an improvement in the homeostasis of the skin via a biomechanical effect provided by the topical application of an effective amount of cosmetic agents, in particular tensors.
• the Applicant proposes to use, in replacement and / or in addition to a tensioning agent, a tensioning device intended to apply in a controlled manner mechanical stresses to the skin.
• biomechanical effect is meant the ability of a cosmetic agent, and in particular a tensioning agent, to induce a biological response at the level of the cells of the epidermis and / or the dermis, via a effective mechanical effect on the surface of the skin (stratum corneum).
• effective mechanical effect on the surface of the skin is meant the ability of a cosmetic agent to induce biologically effective mechanical stresses, ie mechanical stresses capable of transmitting a mechanical disturbance from cell to cell or via the extracellular matrix, and involving the activation of mechanoreceptors present on the membranes of said cells.
• These cells are said to be “biologically sensitive to mechanical stress”: one is particularly interested in the cells of the epidermis and of the dermis, and in particular to keratinocytes and fibroblasts.
• the Applicant proposes to use, in combination with these agents or tensor devices, saccharide compounds that induce and / or increase the expression and therefore the number of mechanoreceptors in the cells of the skin in order to to increase the capacity of said cells to respond to mechanical stresses and thus to potentiate and / or increase and / or prolong the biological response induced by these tensing agents.
• This combination is also advantageous in that it makes it possible to limit the effective amount of tensor agents necessary to obtain the desired biological effect, thus making it possible to optimize the comfort of the cosmetic compositions containing them.
• membrane receptors sensitive to mechanical stress that is to say membrane receptors capable of inducing an intracellular biological response in response to a mechanical disturbance.
• membrane receptors capable of inducing an intracellular biological response in response to a mechanical disturbance.
• integrins e.g. integrins, PECAM1 receptors or PDGF growth factor receptors.
• Integrins are adhesion molecules involved in cell-cell and cell-matrix interactions. These are heterodimeric receptors composed of two ⁇ and ⁇ subunits associated non-covalently. More than 17 chains of the ⁇ subunit and 8 chains of the ⁇ subunit have been described, which combine to form 23 different heterodimers.
• the transmembrane domain of the ⁇ subunits consists of an ⁇ helix, very conserved from one subunit to another, responsible for the anchor function of the integrin to the membrane and participates in signal transduction. .
• the cytoplasmic domain of ⁇ subunits which is highly conserved from one subunit to another, is responsible, on the one hand, for the formation of the heterodimer and, on the other hand, for the binding with structural proteins of the cytoskeleton; this association also regulates signal transduction.
• the heterodimers of integrins can be classified according to their substrate; it is known in particular that: the ⁇ 1 ⁇ 1 and ⁇ 2 ⁇ 1 heterodimers bind to collagen; the heterodimers ⁇ 4 ⁇ 1, ⁇ 5 ⁇ 1, ⁇ 8 ⁇ 1 and ⁇ v ⁇ 1 bind to fibronectin; the ⁇ 1 ⁇ 1, ⁇ 2 ⁇ 1, ⁇ 3 ⁇ 1 and ⁇ 6 ⁇ 1 heterodimers bind to laminins.
• Collagen, fibronectin and laminin are matrix proteins or extracellular matrix proteins that participate in cell adhesion and play an important role in cell migration and signaling.
• the cells interact with the template molecules via membrane receptors and in particular the integrins as described above. And this interaction initiates intracellular responses involved in cell signaling, cell differentiation, migration and / or cell proliferation.
• the present invention thus relates in particular to a composition
• a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of the mechanoreceptors in the cells of the skin and at least one tensing agent, said saccharide compound being distinct from the agent tensor.
• kits comprising (a) at least one composition comprising a saccharide compound increasing the expression of the mechanoreceptors in the cells of the skin and (b) at least one tensor device.
• tensing agent usable according to the invention means compounds likely to have a tensing effect on the skin, that is to say able to stretch the skin.
• tensioning agent means any compounds which are soluble or dispersible in water at a temperature ranging from 25 ° C. to 50 ° C. at a concentration of 7% by weight in water or at the maximum concentration at which they form a medium of homogeneous appearance and producing at this concentration of 7% or at this maximum concentration in water a retraction of more than 15% in the test described below.
• the maximum concentration at which they form a medium of homogeneous appearance is determined within ⁇ 10% and preferably within ⁇ 5%.
• homogeneous appearance medium means a medium that does not have aggregates visible to the naked eye.
• the tensioning agent is gradually added to the water with stirring at the deflocculator at a temperature ranging from 25 ° C. to 50 ° C., and the mixture is then stirred for one hour. It is then observed after 24 hours if the mixture thus prepared is of homogeneous appearance (absence of aggregates visible to the naked eye).
• the tensor effect can be characterized by an in vitro retraction test.
• a homogeneous mixture of the tensioning agent in water, at the concentration of 7% by weight or at the maximum concentration defined above, is prepared beforehand and as described above. 30 ⁇ l of the homogeneous mixture is deposited on a rectangular test piece (10 ⁇ 40 mm, thus having an initial width L 0 of 10 mm) of elastomer having a modulus of elasticity of 20 MPa and a thickness of 100 ⁇ m.
• the elastomer specimen After drying for 3 hours at 22 ⁇ 3 ° C. and 40 ⁇ 10% relative humidity RH, the elastomer specimen has a retracted width, denoted L 3h, due to the tension exerted by the tensioning agent deposited.
• the tensor effect (ET) of said agent is then quantified as follows:
• the tensioning agent may be chosen from: a) vegetable or animal proteins and their hydrolysates; (b) polysaccharides of natural origin; (c) mixed silicates; d) colloidal particles of inorganic fillers; e) synthetic polymers; and mixtures thereof.
• plant proteins and vegetable protein hydrolysates that can be used as tensors according to the invention consist of proteins and hydrolysates of maize, rye, wheat, buckwheat, sesame, spelled, tobacco, pea proteins. , bean, lentil, soy, almond and lupine.
• Animal proteins that can be used according to the invention include, in particular, proteins extracted from silk, milk, whey, and the egg.
• the polysaccharides that are suitable for the formulation of the compositions according to the invention are all naturally occurring or synthetic polysaccharides capable of forming gels either of the thermoreversible type or of the crosslinked type. These polysaccharides have a high molecular weight, generally ranging from 100 to 1000OkD. Preferably, polysaccharides capable of forming heat-reversible gels will be used.
• heat-reversible means that the gel state of these polymer solutions is obtained reversibly once the solution has cooled below the characteristic gelling temperature of the polysaccharide used.
• a first family of polysaccharides of natural origin that can be used in the present invention consists of carrageenans and most particularly kappa-carrageenan and iota-carrageenan. They are linear polysaccharides present in some red algae. They consist of residues ⁇ -1, 3 and ⁇ -1, 4 galactoses alternately, many galactose residues can be sulfated. This family of polysaccharides is described in Chapter 3 of the book “Food Gels” edited by Peter HARRIS, Elsevier 1989.
• polysaccharides that can be used is the agars. They are also polymers extracted from red algae and they consist of residues 1, 4-L-galactose and 1, 3-D-galactose alternately. This family of polysaccharides is also described in Chapter 1 of the book "Food Gels" mentioned above.
• a third family of polysaccharides consists of polysaccharides of bacterial origin called gellans. These are polysaccharides consisting of alternating residues of glucose, glucuronic acid and rhamnose. These gellanes are described in particular in Chapter 6 of the book “Food Gels” mentioned above. Finally, in the case of polysaccharides forming crosslinked type gels, in particular induced by the addition of salts, mention may be made of polysaccharides belonging to the family of alginates and pectins.
• These tensor polysaccharides may be in the form of microgels as described in application FR 2 829 025 or not.
• tensor systems comprising: a polysaccharide and a polyhydroxylating hydrating agent, such as the system described in the application FR2828810; a polysaccharide of pullulan type, as described in patent US 6703027; a polysaccharide of Biopolymer B16 type, as described in patent US5175279.
• tensor systems comprising: a polysaccharide and a polyhydroxylating hydrating agent, such as the system described in the application FR2828810; a polysaccharide of pullulan type, as described in patent US 6703027; a polysaccharide of Biopolymer B16 type, as described in patent US5175279.
• Another class of tensing agents that can be used according to the invention consists of mixed silicates.
• mixed silicates all the silicates of natural or synthetic origin containing at least two different cations chosen from alkali metals (for example Na, Li, K) or alkaline earth metals (for example Be, Mg, Ca) and the transition metals.
• Phyllosilicates are preferably used, ie silicates having a structure in which the SiO tetrahedra are organized in sheets.
• Laponites are magnesium, lithium and sodium silicates with a layered structure similar to that of montmorillonites.
• Lapponite is the synthetic form of the natural mineral called "hectorite”. For example, laponite sold under the name Laponite XLS or Laponite XLG may be used by ROCKWOOD.
• colloidal particles of inorganic filler particles dispersed in an aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic medium, preferably aqueous, and having a number-average diameter of between 0.1 and 100 nm, of preferably between 3 and 30 nm.
• the colloidal particles according to the invention have no thickening properties in water, alcohol, oil and all other solvents. At a concentration greater than or equal to 15% by weight in water, the viscosity of the solutions thus obtained is less than 0.05 Pa ⁇ s for a shear rate equal to 10 s -1 Measurements are made at 25 ° C using a Haake RheoStress RS150 rheometer in a cone-plane configuration, the measurements of the measuring cone being: diameter: 60 mm and angle: 2 °. These particles are generally prepared according to a sol-gel process and therefore differ in particular pyrogenic silica particles, which agglomerate in water to form aggregates of larger dimensions.
• colloidal particles of inorganic filler that can be used according to the invention are generally chosen from colloidal particles of silica, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, alumina, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, sulphate of calcium, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, colloidal platinum particles, mixed colloidal particles such as, for example, titanium dioxides coated once or several times, such as silica-coated titanium dioxide.
• colloidal silicas or colloidal silica-alumina composite particles will preferably be used in the composition according to the invention.
• colloidal silicas is meant, in the sense of the application, colloidal particles of silica dispersed in an aqueous medium, hydroalcoholic, alcoholic.
• the colloidal silica particles have a diameter ranging from 0.1 to 100 nm, and preferably from 3 to 30 nm. These particles are in the form of aqueous dispersions and have no thickening properties in water, alcohol, oil and other solvents.
• the viscosity of the solutions thus obtained is less than 0.05 Pa ⁇ s for a shear rate equal to 10 s -1
• the measurements are carried out at 25 ° C. using a Haake RheoStress RS150 rheometer in cone-plane configuration, the measurements of the measuring cone being: diameter: 60 mm and angle: 2 °.
• Colloidal silicas that can be used in the composition according to the invention include, for example, those marketed by the company Catalysts and Chemicals under the names Cosmo S-40 and Cosmo S-50.
• the colloidal particles of mineral fillers that can be used according to the invention can also be chosen from silica-alumina composite colloidal particles.
• silica-alumina composite is meant silica particles in which aluminum atoms have been substituted in part for silica atoms.
• colloidal particles is meant, in the sense of the application, colloidal particles dispersed in an aqueous medium, hydroalcoholic, alcoholic.
• the silica-aluminum composite colloidal particles have a diameter ranging from 0.1 to 100 nm, and preferably from 3 to 30 nm. These particles are in the form of aqueous dispersions and have no thickening properties in water, alcohol, oil and other solvents.
• the viscosity of the solutions thus obtained is less than 0.05 Pa ⁇ s for a shear rate equal to 10 s -1
• the measurements are carried out at 25 ° C. using a Haake RheoStress RS150 rheometer in cone-plane configuration, the measurements of the measuring cone being: diameter: 60 mm and angle: 2 °.
• the silica-alumina composite colloidal particles according to the invention have a zeta potential of less than -2OmV and preferably less than -25 mV.
• the measurements are carried out at 25 ° C using a COULTER Scientific Instrument DELSA 440SX instrument.
• silica-alumina composite colloidal particles that can be used in the compositions according to the invention mention may be made, for example, of those sold by the company Grace under the names Ludox AM, Ludox AM-X 6021, Ludox HSA and Ludox TMA.
• the synthetic polymers used according to the invention can be in solution or in suspension in a polar or apolar liquid (latex), in particular in aqueous solution or aqueous dispersion, or in dry form redispersible in a cosmetic solvent.
• a polar or apolar liquid latex
• aqueous solution or aqueous dispersion or in dry form redispersible in a cosmetic solvent.
• the synthetic polymers that can be used as tensioning agent can be chosen from:
• polycondensates in particular polyurethanes
• water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers comprising water-soluble or water-dispersible units and LCST units.
• the synthetic polymers according to the invention may especially be chosen from interpenetrating polymer networks (IPNs). These polymers can be found in particular in the form of random linear copolymers, interpenetrating polymer networks (IPNs), polycondensates, grafted silicone polymer and block polymer. Whatever its nature, the synthetic polymeric tensing agent may have a weight average mass Mw ranging from 3000 to 1000000 Da.
• IPNs interpenetrating polymer networks
• linear tensile linear copolymers within the meaning of the present invention are chosen from random copolymers with a linear main chain of ethylenic nature with a molecular weight of less than 600 000 Da (g / mol), preferably a weight-average molecular weight between 15 000 and
• copolymers generally have an overall glass transition temperature greater than or equal to 45 ° C.
• Preferred alkyl (meth) acrylates Benzyl acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate, tert-butyl acrylate, isobornyl acrylate and norbornyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl, isobutyl, cyclohexyl, benzyl, tert-butyl, isobornyl and norbornyl, preferably methyl methacrylate and cyclohexyl methacrylate
• Copolymers of methyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid copolymers of methyl methacrylate / acrylic acid, said copolymers containing between 70 and 90% by weight of methyl methacrylate;
• Copolymers of ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid copolymers of ethyl methacrylate / acrylic acid, said copolymers containing between 70 and 90% by weight of ethyl methacrylate;
• Copolymers of benzyl acrylate / methacrylic acid copolymers of benzyl acrylate / acrylic acid, said copolymers containing between 70 and 90% by weight of benzyl acrylate;
• Copolymers of cyclohexyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid copolymers of cyclohexyl methacrylate / acrylic acid, said copolymers containing between 70 and 90% by weight of cyclohexyl methacrylate;
• Copolymers of isobornyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid copolymers of isobornyl methacrylate / acrylic acid, said copolymers containing between 70 and 90% by weight of isobornyl methacrylate;
• Copolymers of isobornyl acrylate / methacrylic acid copolymers of isobornyl acrylate / acrylic acid, said copolymers containing between 70 and 90% by weight of isobornyl acrylate;
• Styrene / methacrylic acid copolymers styrene / acrylic acid copolymers, said copolymers containing between 70 and 90% by weight of styrene.
• copolymers according to the present invention are in the form of dispersion in a polar liquid. These copolymers are dispersed in water after neutralization with a base.
• a preferred copolymer according to the invention is chosen from copolymers of methyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, said copolymers containing between 70 and 90% by weight of methyl methacrylate.
• interpenetrating polymer network within the meaning of the present invention is meant a mixture of two entangled polymers, obtained by simultaneous polymerization and / or crosslinking of two types of monomers, the resulting mixture having a single glass transition temperature.
• IPNs suitable for use in the present invention, as well as their method of preparation are described in US-6,139,322 and US-6,465,001, for example.
• the IPN according to the invention comprises at least one acrylic polymer and, more preferably, it further comprises at least one polyurethane or a copolymer of vinylidene fluoride and of hexafluoropropylene.
• the IPN according to the invention comprises a polyurethane polymer and a polyacrylic polymer.
• IPNs are in particular those of the Hybridur series which are commercially available from AIR PRODUCTS.
• a particularly preferred IPN is in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles having an average size, by weight, of 90 to 110 nm and a number average size of about 80 nm.
• This IPN preferably has a glass transition temperature, Tg, which ranges from about -60 ° C to + 100 ° C.
• Tg glass transition temperature
• An IPN of this type is sold especially by the company AIR PRODUCTS under the trade name Hybridur 875.
• IPN suitable for use in the present invention are referenced HybridurX01602 and Hybridur 580.
• IPNs suitable for use in the present invention include the IPNs consisting of blending a polyurethane with a copolymer of vinylidene fluoride and hexafluoropropylene. These IPNs can in particular be prepared as described in US Pat. No. 5,349,003. Alternatively, they are commercially available as a colloidal dispersion in water, in a ratio of fluorinated copolymer to acrylic polymer of 70:30 to 75:25, under the trade names KYNAR RC-10,147 and KYNAR RC- 10,151 with the company ATOFINA.
• composition may according to a second variant comprise as synthetic polymeric tensing agent at least one polycondensate.
• Polymers in the form of polycondensates having a tensor effect have in particular been described in application WO 98/29092.
• Polycondensates that may be mentioned include polyurethanes, in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, acrylic polyurethanes, polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether polyurethanes, polyureas, and mixtures thereof.
• the polyurethane may be, for example, a polyurethane, polyurea / urethane or polyurea, aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic copolymer comprising, alone or as a mixture, at least one linear or branched aliphatic polyester and / or cycloaliphatic polyester origin sequence and / or aromatic, and / or - at least one sequence of polyether aliphatic origin and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic, and / or at least one sequence comprising fluorinated groups.
• the polyurethanes may also be obtained from branched or unbranched polyesters or from alkyds containing mobile hydrogens which are modified by reaction with a diisocyanate and a bifunctional organic compound (for example dihydro, diamino or hydroxyamino), comprising plus either a carboxylic acid or carboxylate group, or a sulfonic acid or sulfonate group, or a tertiary amine neutralizable group or a quaternary ammonium group. Mention may also be made of polyesters, polyester amides, fatty-chain polyesters, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins.
• a diisocyanate for example dihydro, diamino or hydroxyamino
• a bifunctional organic compound for example dihydro, diamino or hydroxyamino
• Mention may also be made of polyesters, polyester amides, fatty-chain polyesters, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins.
• polyurethane In order to form a polyurethane, mention may be made, as monomer carrying an anionic group that may be used during the polycondensation, of dimethylolpropionic acid, trimellitic acid or a derivative such as trimellitic anhydride, the sodium salt of the Sulfo-3-pentanediol acid, the sodium salt of 5-sulfo-1,3-benzenedicarboxylic acid.
• the grafted silicone polymers in particular, as defined in application EP-1038519. It may be more particularly a polymer comprising a main chain of silicone or polysiloxane (Si-O- polymer) on which is grafted, inside said chain as well as possibly to at least one at its ends, at least one organic group having no silicone.
• the silicone polymer, with a polysiloxane backbone grafted with non-silicone organic monomers used comprises the result of the radical copolymerization between, on the one hand, at least one non-organic anionic organic monomer.
• -silicone having an ethylenic unsaturation and / or a non-silicone hydrophobic organic monomer having ethylenic unsaturation and, secondly, a silicone having in its chain at least one functional group capable of reacting on said ethylenic unsaturations of said non-silicone monomers in forming a covalent bond, in particular thio-functional groups.
• said ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomers are preferably chosen, alone or in mixtures, from linear or branched unsaturated carboxylic acids, which may be partially or completely neutralized in the form of a salt, or these unsaturated carboxylic acids.
• a salt which may be more particularly acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, fumaric acid and crotonic acid.
• Suitable salts include alkali, alkaline earth and ammonium salts.
• the organic group of anionic nature which comprises the result of the radical homopolymerization of at least one unsaturated carboxylic acid anionic monomer can be, after reaction, post-neutralized with a base (soda, ammonia, ...) to bring it in the form of a salt.
• the hydrophobic monomers with ethylenic unsaturation are preferably chosen, alone or in mixtures, from the acrylic acid esters of alkanols and / or the methacrylic acid esters of alkanols.
• the alkanols are preferably C 1 -C 18 and more particularly C 1 -C 12 .
• the preferred monomers are selected from the group consisting of isooctyl (meth) acrylate, isononyl (meth) acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl (meth) acrylate, lauryl (meth) acrylate, (meth) acrylate isopentyl, n-butyl (meth) acrylate, isobutyl (meth) acrylate, (meth) acrylate methyl, tert-butyl (meth) acrylate, tridecyl (meth) acrylate, stearyl (meth) acrylate or mixtures thereof.
• a family of silicone polymers with a polysiloxane backbone grafted with non-silicone organic monomers particularly suitable for the implementation of the present invention consists of silicone polymers comprising in their structure the following unit of formula (I):
• radicals G 1 identical or different, represent hydrogen or a C 1 -C 10 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical; the radicals G 2 , which may be identical or different, represent a C 1 -C 10 alkylene group;
• G 3 represents a polymeric residue resulting from r (homo) polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer;
• G 4 represents a polymer residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one hydrophobic monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation;
• m and n are, independently of one another, equal to 0 or 1; a is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; b is an integer ranging from 10 to 350, c is an integer from 0 to 50; provided that one of the parameters a and c is different from 0.
• the unit of formula (I) above has at least one, and even more preferably all, of the following characteristics:
• radicals Gi denote a C 1 -C 10 alkyl radical
• n is non-zero, and the radicals G 2 represent a divalent radical in dC 3 ;
• - G 3 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid type monomer, preferably acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid;
• - G 4 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the C1-C10 alkyl (meth) acrylate type.
• grafted silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, for example via a thiopropylene type connecting link, polymeric units of the poly (meth) acrylic acid type and / or of the polyalkyl (meth) acrylate type, in particular of (C 1 -C 3) alkyl or even C -
• PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
• a preferred example of a grafted silicone polymer is polysilicone-8 (CTFA name) which is a polydimethylsiloxane onto which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting link, poly (meth) acid mixed polymer units. acrylic and alkyl poly (meth) acrylate, especially C 1 -C 3 alkyl, or even C 1 .
• CTFA name polysilicone-8
• acrylic and alkyl poly (meth) acrylate especially C 1 -C 3 alkyl, or even C 1 .
• it may be a grafted polydimethyl siloxane propylthio (isobutyl polymethacrylate) and propylthio (methacrylic polyacid).
• Propylthio grafted polydimethyl siloxane (methyl polyacrylate / methyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid) is preferably used.
• a polymer of this type is in particular available under the trade name VS
• the number-average molecular weight of the silicone polymers with a polysiloxane backbone grafted with non-silicone organic monomers of the invention varies from about 10,000 to 1,000,000, and even more preferably from about 10,000 to 100,000.
• the synthetic polymeric tensing agent that can be used in the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one "star" structure polymer represented by the following formula (I):
• A represents a multifunctional center, of functionality "n", n being an integer greater than 2, in particular greater than 5.
• - [(M1) p1 - (M2) p2 .... (Mi) pj] represents a polymeric chain, also called “branch”, consisting of monomers M polymerized, identical or different, having a polymerization index pj, each branch being identical or different, and being grafted covalently on said center A, - i is greater than or equal to 1, and pj is greater than or equal to 2; said polymer comprising one or more monomers Mi whose corresponding homopolymer has a Tg greater than or equal to about 10 ° C, preferably greater than or equal to 15 ° C, and more preferably greater than or equal to 20 ° C; and this or these monomers Mi being present in a minimum amount of about 45% by weight, preferably in an amount varying between 55 and 99% by weight, and more preferably between 75 and 90% by weight, relative to the total weight. of all the mono
• the synthetic polymeric tensors that can be used in the composition according to the invention can be polystyrene (PS) -polyethylacrylate (PEA) block polymers.
• PS polystyrene
• PEA polyethylacrylate
• block polymer means a polymer consisting of at least two distinct homopolymers consisting solely of monomers A and B respectively.
• the blocks according to the invention are respectively polystyrene (PS) and polyethylacrylate (PEA) blocks.
• the polymer may be a triblock polymer of PS-PEA-PS type or multiblock type PS- [PEA-PS] n, or PEA- [PS-PEA] n, where n is an integer positive and preferably is 1.
• these block polymers are linear copolymers.
• the molecular weight of this polymer is preferably greater than 10,000 Dalton, and even more preferably greater than 50,000 Dalton.
• the weight ratio of the monomers PS and PEA can be defined such that PS / PEA is greater than 1 and preferably such that PS / PEA is greater than 5.
• the triblock polymer PS (30000) -PEA (10000) -PS (30000) which is particularly suitable for the implementation of the invention.
• This particularly advantageous block copolymer is a triblock copolymer comprising:
• a first block comprising units derived from styrene having a number-average molecular weight of 30,000 g / mol;
• a second block consisting of units derived from ethyl acrylate having a number average molecular weight of 10,000 g / mol; a third block comprising units derived from styrene having a number-average molecular weight of 30,000 g / mol.
• a copolymer as defined above may be a copolymer for which the first block and / or the third block and, preferably, the first block and the third block comprises, in addition to the units derived from styrene, units derived from methacrylic acid, for example, in a mass ratio (styrene / methacrylic acid) of 98/2.
• the synthetic copolymers used according to the invention may also alternatively consist of a polystyrene polyethylacrylate random copolymer.
• the weight ratio of the monomers PS and PEA is defined as PS / PEA> 1 and preferably such as PS / PEA> 5.
• the tensor polymers according to the invention may also be chosen from vinyl derivatives such as polyvinyl alcohols and polyvinyl pyrrolidones, whether block or even random.
• suitable synthetic polymers may be water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers comprising water-soluble or water-dispersible units and comprising LSCT units, said LCST units having, in particular, a demixing temperature in water of 5 to 40 ° C. a mass concentration of 1%.
• This type of polymer is more fully described in patent application FR 2 819 429.
• the tensioning agent is chosen from:
• interpenetrating polymers in particular comprising a polyurethane polymer and a polyacrylic polymer, such as those sold under the name HYBRIDUR and in particular Hybridur 875; and synthetic polymers, in particular acrylic polymers of the latex type such as those described in the examples below.
• the preferred tensioning agent is chosen from interpenetrating polymers, in particular comprising a polyurethane polymer and a polyacrylic polymer, such as those sold under the name HYBRIDUR and in particular Hybridur 875.
• the tensioning agent used according to the invention may be chosen from: vegetable or animal proteins and their hydrolysates; polysaccharides of natural origin; synthetic polymers of polycondensate type or grafted silicone polymer, and mixtures thereof.
• a tensioning agent chosen from silicone polymers having a polysiloxane backbone grafted with non-silicone organic monomers.
• the silicone polymer has in its structure the following unit of formula (I):
• radicals G 1, identical or different represent hydrogen or a C 1 -C 10 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical
• radicals G 2 which may be identical or different, represent a C 1 -C 10 alkylene group
• G3 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer
• G 4 represents a polymer residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one hydrophobic monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation
• m and n are, independently of one another, equal to 0 or 1
• a is an integer ranging from 0 to 50
• b is an integer ranging from 10 to 350
• c is an integer from 0 to 50; provided that one of the parameters a and c is different from 0.
• the unit of formula (I) has at least one, and even more preferably all, of the following characteristics:
• radicals Gi denote a C 1 -C 10 alkyl radical
• the grafted silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, by means of a thiopropylene type connecting member, polymer units of the poly (meth) acrylic acid type. and / or of the polyalkyl (meth) acrylate type, in particular of C 1 -C 3 alkyl or even C-
• PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
• a preferred grafted silicone polymer is a propylthio grafted polydimethyl siloxane (methyl polyacrylate / methyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid).
• a tensioning agent chosen from:
• mineral tensors such as mixed silicates and colloidal particles of inorganic fillers
• tensor polymers in particular: copolymers of methyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, said copolymers containing between 70 and 90% by weight of methyl methacrylate; interpenetrated polymers comprising a polyurethane and an acrylic polymer, and mixtures thereof.
• the tensing agents which fall within this preferred embodiment of the invention have the particularity of forming, when they are deposited on a glass plate, a mosaic deposit. The remainder of the description of 'mosaic effect tensing agents' will be discussed.
• mosaic effect tensing agent is meant according to the invention an agent which, when applied to a glass plate, forms on drying a fragmented deposit, the size and shape of the pieces constituting it being able to depend on their location with respect to the edges of the deposit.
• fragmented deposit is meant more precisely a discontinuous deposit consisting of a multitude of small areas or individual microdomains.
• Pieces or microdomains are usually small.
• the latter can vary from 0.1 mm 2 to a few mm 2 .
• such a mosaic deposit can not be peeled or detached from the support, unlike continuous or semi-continuous deposits adhering to the support, which can be detached or peeled, either in one piece or in several shreds of relatively large size.
• such a mosaic deposit generally has a low resistance to water, that is to say that in contact with water, the deposit disintegrates.
• FIG. 1 Such a mosaic deposit according to the invention is shown in FIG.
• the fragmented or mosaic aspect of the deposit results in particular from the fact that the stresses developed by these tensors during drying are greater than the cohesion forces (rigidity) of the deposit.
• Such deposits formed by these mosaic effect tensing agents can be characterized by their stress fracturing property, evaluated, for example, in the strength test described below.
• the mosaic effect tensing agents according to the invention form deposits advantageously characterized by a breaking energy of between 0 and 20 J / m 2, (preferably equal to 0) and a breaking strain of between 0 and 0, 2 mm in the strength test described below.
• Said mechanical strength test consists, for example, in compressing the surface tensioning agent of a flexible and deformable foam in compression until rupture.
• the tensioning agent is deposited at a concentration of 7% by weight in water or at the maximum concentration by weight at which they form in water at a temperature of 25 ° C to 50 ° C homogeneous appearance.
• the use of this foam support makes it possible to impose a large amount of deformation on the tensor agent deposited on the surface, and thus a quantization of its resistance to fracture.
• the mechanical stress in compression is exerted using a cylindrical punch 1 mm in diameter; the speed of displacement of the punch being 0.1 mm / s.
• the test is carried out using a TA-XT2i texture analyzer sold by the company Stable Micro System.
• a force curve F (in N) is thus obtained as a function of the displacement d (in mm) from which it is possible to determine the breaking point of the material (tensioning agent) or breaking energy W rup t expressed in J / m2, as shown in Figure 2.
• the mosaic effect tensing agents used according to the invention are advantageous compared to other tensing agents which form a continuous or semi-continuous deposit adhering to a flexible substrate such as the skin, in that they allow a better distribution over the entire surface. skin surface tension exerted against a continuous or semi-continuous deposit.
• the voltages develop in the substrate only at the periphery of the solid deposit.
• the voltages develop at the periphery of each independent deposit piece, which considerably increases the surface subjected to the voltages.
• colloidal silica particles are used as the mosaic tensor.
• Other preferred mosaic effect tensors include: copolymers of methyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, said copolymers containing between 70 and 90% by weight of methyl methacrylate; interpenetrated polymers comprising a polyurethane and an acrylic polymer.
• Preferred tensing agents are interpenetrated polymers comprising a polyurethane and an acrylic polymer.
• the tensioning agent will be present in the composition in an amount effective to obtain the desired biological effect according to the invention.
• This effective amount will be defined such that the combination of the tensioning agent with the saccharide compound increasing the expression of the mechanoreceptors in the cells makes it possible to obtain the desired biological effect, namely in particular an effect on the homeostasis of the skin.
• This effective amount or effective dose may for example be evaluated according to a DNA array method as described in the following illustrative examples, the general principle of which is the following: different doses of tensioning agent and saccharide compound increasing the dose are applied.
• expression of the mechanoreceptors, in combination, on cells in culture or on an epidermis model and / or reconstructed skin the mRNAs are extracted from said treated or non-treated cells (control) and a 'reverse' transcription is carried out using, for example, oligo dT and a P33-labeled deoxynucleotide triphosphate to obtain labeled target cDNA sequences; these target cDNA sequences are hybridized on dedicated minichips containing DNAs specific for the markers involved in the physiology of the skin cells, and in particular in the homeostasis of the skin (called 'cDNA probes'); after washing, the amount of labeled target sequences is measured, which is compared to the control to evaluate the variation of expression of the target
• the associated effective doses are advantageously selected for which a decrease in the expression of genes involved in the differentiation of keratinocytes (eg corneodesmosine, loricrin, suprabasin) and / or an increase in the genes involved in the regeneration of the skin (ex : cytokeratins) relative to a control, preferably a change in expression by a factor of 2 or more compared to the control.
• genes involved in the differentiation of keratinocytes eg corneodesmosine, loricrin, suprabasin
• an increase in the genes involved in the regeneration of the skin ex : cytokeratins
• the tensioning agent may be included in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight of active material, in particular from 1% to 30%, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight. at 20% relative to the total weight of the composition.
• tensioning agent ranging from 2 to 30% by weight, in particular from 3 to 20%, preferably from 4% to 20% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition, for example an amount of between 6 and 10% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.
• an effective amount of tensing agent of 3 to 20% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition preferably 3 to 7% by weight of active material relative to the total weight, will be used. of the composition.
• active substance is intended to exclude the medium in which the tensioning agent is optionally solubilized or dispersed in its commercial form, for example in the case of dispersions of colloidal particles.
• a tensor device is used instead of and / or in addition to the tensioning agent.
• Tensing device By “tensor device” is meant according to the invention a device intended to apply and / or maintain in a controlled manner mechanical stresses on the skin
• By 'application and / or controlled maintenance of mechanical stresses' is meant stimulation of the skin with the aid of a device, said device being able to be applied to a skin that is not subjected to mechanical stress (it will be referred to as application of a constraint), or on a skin already subjected to a mechanical stress, in particular of the tension or traction type (in this case we will speak of maintaining the stress).
• mechanical stresses may be the direct or indirect result of the application and / or the maintenance on the skin of a mechanical, electrical or ultrasonic stimulation or their combination using at least one device.
• indirect resultant is meant, for example, a mechanical stress induced by stimulation of the subcutaneous muscles, for example of the electrical type (eg electrostimulation), using a device.
• mechanical stresses is meant in particular according to the invention a stress selected from tension, traction, pressure, and combinations thereof.
• the device according to the invention for applying and / or maintaining mechanical stresses on the skin is selected from a device inducing mechanical stimulation, electrical stimulation, ultrasonic stimulation, and combinations thereof.
• Some devices may be privileged depending on the mechanical stress they induce and the intended application.
• use will preferably be made of a device generating tractions to induce stimulation of cell renewal and thus to fight against deterioration related to aging.
• Pressure-generating devices may preferably be used to reduce extracellular matrix accumulation and thereby promote skin regeneration and / or healing, particularly by controlling the development of hypertrophic scars or keloids.
• Stimulation of the skin according to the invention with the aid of a device for applying and / or maintaining mechanical stresses may be the result of mechanical, electrical or ultrasonic action or their combination.
• stimulation induced by a mechanical device will be used.
• the device inducing mechanical stimulation is a massage instrument or a pressure applicator.
• These devices can be manual, that is to say not requiring, for operation, external energy input other than a simple application of the device on the skin, possibly with a movement back and forth (massage) where can be equipped with an electric motor operating both on mains and battery.
• the device may be a massage instrument chosen from a manual massage instrument or a massage instrument requiring external energy input.
• Examples of manual instruments include devices developed or marketed by companies: Environ (Environ Cosmetic Roll-Cit®); Repêchage (Lift On The Go® Facial Repechage); Leaf & Rusher (Leaf & Rusher DermaRoller®). These instruments may be in the form of rollers or massage balls possibly containing pimples on their surface.
• Examples of instruments requiring external energy supply include devices developed or marketed by companies: WinHealth (Magic Teen Wand Eye Roller®); HoMedics (FAC-100 Facial Spa®); LPG (Lift6®).
• These massage instruments can be assisted mechanically, that is to say comprising manual control means, comprising a treatment head connected to a suction circuit, said treatment head having two surfaces arranged facing one of the other and said suction circuit for forming by depression created a fold of skin which will then be moved on the surface of the human body.
• Devices such as LiftD® allow to perform specific massages that are obtained through the use of massage heads connected to a suction circuit.
• the massage heads comprise a housing, a chamber and two transverse surfaces consisting of positively rotated rollers, such devices are described for example in the French patent applications No. FR2579100, FR2589726, FR2612395, FR2723310, FR2752159, FR2768051 and FR2809952. .
• an apparatus comprising an applicator configured to apply a pressure pulse to the skin surface having at least one negative pressure phase with respect to ambient pressure, such as that described in WO0697925.
• This negative pressure phase with respect to the ambient pressure may have a duration of 0.1 to 100 milliseconds and an intensity of 0.1 bar at 10 bars below ambient pressure.
• the device intended to generate and / or maintain mechanical stresses on the skin, in particular to maintain tensions previously applied to the skin is a particularly adhesive support capable of maintaining tension on the skin.
• This support will be applied to an area of stretched or stretched skin to keep the skin energized.
• This support will in particular be characterized by an elastic modulus greater than or equal to 500 MPa, in particular ranging from 500 to 10000 MPa, preferably from 500 to 2000 MPa, more preferably from 500 to 1500 MPa.
• This module can in particular be determined by dynamic mechanical analysis using, for example, DMA 2980 (Dynamical Mechanism Analysis) marketed by TA Instrument.
• This support may for example be a synthetic support.
• patches may be mentioned.
• the patches generally have a composite structure in the form of layers.
• they contain a reservoir comprising the composition or the active agent intended to be released on the skin at the time of application of the patch.
• controlled release patches with a hydrophobic polymeric matrix L'Oreal
• reservoir type patches containing an active substance reservoir, a diffusion membrane and an adhesive layer
• optimized adhesion patches comprising a hydrophobic polymer layer fixed on a support layer and containing particles of active compound, oil particles and particles of a water-absorbing agent (FR 2 761 889 L'Oreal); and advantageously so-called 'reservoir' systems allowing controlled release of said active substance.
• the patch generally comprises at least one polymeric matrix whose surface, adhesive or capable of becoming, especially after hydration, is intended to be brought into contact with the skin.
• Polymeric matrix means a hydrophobic or hydrophilic polymer layer which may consist of a self-adhesive matrix (on dry skin and / or on wet skin).
• hydrophobic polymeric matrices constituting the "conventional" patches are based in particular on polyacrylic, polyvinyl adhesive, a polyurethane silicone polymer, styrene or isoprene, the crosslinking of which is preferably partial so as to confer on it adhesion without requiring additional adhesive layer.
• An adhesive matrix of latex, butyl, or other elastomeric adhesive may also be used.
• the surface of the matrix intended to come into contact with the skin may be smooth or have asperities or reliefs.
• the polymeric matrix is deposited on a support.
• the support may be an occlusive support.
• the support consists of a thermoplastic material chosen from high and low density polyethylenes, polypropylenes, polyvinyl chlorides, copolymers of ethylene and vinyl acetate, polyesters and polyurethanes. , or a complex of such materials. These Materials may also be present in laminated form with at least one sheet of metal such as aluminum foil.
• the support layer may be of any suitable thickness which will provide the desired support and protection functions.
• the thickness of the support layer is between about 20 ⁇ m and about 1.5 mm.
• the support layer is sufficiently flexible so as to perfectly fit the profile of the skin, and not to cause the user, a feeling of discomfort.
• the carrier is non-occlusive. In the latter case, it is advantageous to use a support consisting of a paper, a porous or perforated thermoplastic material, a woven fabric, a nonwoven fabric or a perforated nonwoven fabric.
• the patch comprises at least one protective sheet, peelable before application of the patch.
• the patch can be packaged in a tray or in a protective bag formed from two sheets of a paper / plastic film complex sealed, the paper being coated with a cold sealable adhesive, the sheets being sealed around the patch by contact of the coated faces of adhesive.
• Devices generating electrical stimulations or electrostimulations are used conventionally to act on the muscle tone, by contraction of the muscles. This muscular contraction can have the effect of locally generating mechanical stresses.
• Electro-stimulation uses a discontinuous low-voltage current, transmitted by electrodes connected to a device.
• the electrostimulators generally comprise surface electrodes applied to the skin at the level of the zones to be treated, said electrodes being connected to an electrical generator applying electrical stimulations of variable frequencies ranging from 1 to 100 Hz, in particular from 0.2 to 60 Hz, and preferably from 0.2 to 20 Hz.
• stimulation under the electrical method is a microdermal tension stimulating system of the skin such as that described in FIG. WO 06116728.
• the output pulses are adjustable in a range of approximately 0.3 to 8 Hertz.
• the ultrasound frequencies vary from 2OkHz to 10MHz.
• Low frequency devices eg 20 kHz - 30OkHz
• medium frequency eg 30OkHz - 3MHz
• a stimulation device in the form of ultrasound
• a stimulator applying to the skin a combined ultrasound and low frequency stimulus, such as that described in the application WO 06101295.
• Sonic Peeler ® marketed by Neps Inc. company, applied to the skin, generates ultrasonic vibrations.
• the composition comprising at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in the cells of the skin is contained in a reservoir of said tensor device and released at the time of application to the skin of said device .
• the invention also relates to a cosmetic kit comprising at least:
• composition comprising at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in the cells of the skin; and a tensioning device intended to apply and / or maintain in a controlled manner mechanical stresses on the skin.
• the tensor device for applying and / or maintaining in a controlled manner mechanical stresses on the skin is selected from a device inducing mechanical stimulation, electrical stimulation, ultrasonic stimulation and combinations thereof.
• the tensioning device intended to apply and / or maintain in a controlled manner mechanical stress on the skin of this kit is a massage instrument chosen from a manual massage instrument or a massage instrument requiring external energy input.
• the tensioning device intended to maintain tension on the skin of this kit is a particularly adhesive support capable of maintaining tension on the skin.
• a preferred support used in the kit according to the invention is a patch.
• the particularly adhesive support has an elastic modulus ranging from 500 MPa to 10000 MPa, preferably from 500 MPa to 2000 MPa.
• the composition is contained in a reservoir of said tensioning device intended to apply and / or maintain in a controlled manner mechanical tensions on the skin.
• saccharide compounds increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors present in the composition are described below.
• it will be used in the constitutive composition of the care kit according to the invention a C-glycoside derivative increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors, particularly integrins, as described below.
• the kit according to the invention may also comprise on the one hand (a) at least one composition comprising a saccharide compound increasing the expression of the mechanoreceptors, at least one tensor agent and on the other hand (b) at less a tensor device for applying and / or maintaining in a controlled manner mechanical stresses on the skin.
• saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in the cells of the skin is meant especially according to the invention any saccharide compound capable of inducing and / or stimulating the expression of mechanoreceptors in the skin cells, in particular particularly in the cells of the epidermis and the dermis (ex: keratinocytes, fibroblasts).
• one is interested in saccharide compounds increasing the expression of integrins, and in particular to saccharide compounds increasing the expression of ⁇ 1 integrins.
• Such saccharide compounds can be selected according to standard methods of immunofluorescence detection or quantitative RT-PCR.
• quantitative RT-PCR technology will be used.
• the principle of the immunofluorescence detection consists in bringing cells in culture into contact with the saccharide compounds to be tested, then in revealing the effect of said saccharide compounds on the expression of mechanoreceptors and in particular integrins (eg ⁇ 1 integrins) using anti-integrin antibodies and secondary antibodies coupled to a fluorescent marker (fluorescein).
• integrins eg ⁇ 1 integrins
• the general principle of quantitative RT-PCR technology comprises, for example, the following steps: the concentrations of the saccharide compounds to be tested are selected from a cytotoxicity study under the conditions of the test; human keratinocytes and / or fibroblasts are cultured in a culture medium adapted to these different cell types; - The culture medium is changed against the same medium containing or not (control) the saccharide compound to be tested at different concentrations selected; after 24 hours of incubation, for example, the mRNA is extracted and the DNA traces are removed by treatment with DNAse, which is then inactivated; a reverse transcription reaction is then carried out followed by fluorescence quantization of the synthesized cDNA; a first series of Q-PCRs is carried out on the ⁇ -actin (control) marker to verify the homogeneity of the preparations to be compared; triplicate Q-PCRs are then carried out using primer pairs specific for ⁇ -actin sequences, and markers specific for mechanoreceptors
• PCR polymerase chain reaction
• the PCR (polymerase chain reaction) reactions may in particular be carried out by quantitative PCR with the "Light Cycler” system (Roche Molecular Systems Inc.) and according to the procedures recommended by the supplier.
• the saccharide compound increasing the expression of the mechanoreceptors in the skin cells present in the composition is a saccharide compound increasing the expression of integrins in the cells of the skin.
• the saccharide compounds according to the invention are saccharide compounds of low molecular weight, in particular capable of diffusing and / or penetrating the layers of the epidermis to increase the expression of mechanoreceptors.
• low molecular weight saccharide compounds according to the invention is meant saccharide compounds with a molecular weight of less than 100 kD, in particular less than 80 kD, more preferably less than 60 kD, preferably less than 40 kD, still more preferably less than 20 kD, even less than 1 OkD.
• the saccharide compounds according to the invention will have a molecular weight ranging from 0.01 to 10 kDa.
• the polysaccharides of high molecular weight that is to say of molecular weight greater than or equal to 10 0 kD with a gelling power which, because of their large size, will stay on the surface of the skin.
• high molecular weight saccharide compounds generally ranging from 10OkD to 1000OkD, there may be mentioned gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, locust bean gum, guar gum, tamarind gum, xanthan, gellan, pectins, tragacanth, agar, alginate, carrageenan, furcelleran, konjac and cellulose derivatives.
• the saccharide compounds increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors according to the invention will be chosen from: monosaccharides, polysaccharides and their derivatives, in particular the C-glycoside derivatives of monosaccharides or of polysaccharides.
• saccharide compounds according to the invention can be extended to plant extracts containing them and / or to the fractions of plant extracts enriched with these saccharide compounds, such as in particular extracts and / or fractions of wheat, rye, and especially rye.
• monosaccharide means a saccharic unit, said monosaccharide having at least one hydroxyl function necessarily free and / or optionally one or more optionally protected amine functions.
• the monosaccharides may be in pyranose and / or furanose form, and L and / or D series and chosen from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose, L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D -galactosamine.
• polysaccharide is meant a saccharide compound generally containing from 2 to 20 saccharide units as described above, said polysaccharide having at least one hydroxyl function necessarily free and / or optionally one or more optionally protected amino functions.
• polysaccharide contains from 3 to 6 sugar units, it will be called oligosaccharide.
• Homopolysaccharides consisting of the same monosaccharide and heteropolysaccharides formed of different monosaccharides are distinguished.
• the polysaccharide contains from 2 to 20 saccharide units, in particular from 5 to 20 saccharide units.
• the polysaccharides according to the invention may be of the linear and / or branched type.
• They may be oligomers of monosaccharides also called oligosaccharides, or polymers associating different monosaccharides, in pyranose and / or furanose form, and L and / or D series.
• the polysaccharides according to the invention are advantageously chosen from: polysaccharides containing up to 20 saccharide units chosen from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose and D-maltotriose; a disaccharide associating a uronic acid selected from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine, and N-acetyl -D-glucosamine; an oligosaccharide containing at least one xylose advantageously chosen from xylobiose, methyl- ⁇ -xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose and preferably xylobiose which is composed of two xylose molecules linked by a
• xylan derivatives examples include parabinoxylan, parabinoglucoxylan, galactogalactoglucoxylan, fucoglucoxylan, galactoarabinoxylan, galactoglucomannoxylan, galactoglucoxylan, galactomannoglucoxylan, galactoxylan, glucogalactoxylan, glucomannofucoxylan, glucoarabinoxylan, glucomannoxylan, and glucoxylan.
• a preferred xylan derivative is Parabinoxylan shown below:
• the arabinoxylans consist of a D-xylopyranose backbone to which ⁇ -L-arabinofuranose groups are bonded in ⁇ - (1-4) bonding.
• saccharide compounds include glucose, xylose, xylan and their derivatives.
• extracts and / or fractions containing at least glucose, xylose and an arabinoxylan such as in particular extracts of rye or wheat seeds, in particular rye.
• Such extracts are in particular marketed by SILAB under the name Coheliss ® .
• extracts marketed rye seeds include Herbasol Rye Extract ® to Cosmetochem.
• C-glycosides and their derivatives As a saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in skin cells, mention may also be made of C-glycoside derivatives such as those described in application WO 02/051828, incorporated herein by reference.
• the C-glycoside derivative has the general formula (I):
• X represents a radical chosen from the groups:
• R 1, R 2 and R 3 representing, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, an OH group or a radical R representing: a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C 1 to C 20 alkyl radical,
• radicals may, if appropriate, be interrupted by 1, 2, 3 or more heteroatoms selected from: oxygen, - sulfur, nitrogen, and silicon, and may be optionally substituted by at least one radical chosen from:
• R 4 and R 5 being able to represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical or an alkyl, acyl, perfluoroalkyl or polyfluoroalkyl radical C 1 to C 30, especially C 1 to C 12 , saturated or unsaturated, linear, or branched,
• S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and / or furanose form and L and / or D series, said mono- or polysaccharide possibly being substituted with a radical (CH 2 ) -OR 6 , with R 6 representing a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical, with a hydroxyl group and / or with an O-glycoside radical, and having at least one free hydroxyl function and / or an optionally protected amine function, and the SC bond represents a bond of C-anomeric nature, or one of its salts or isomers.
• halogen means chlorine, fluorine, bromine or iodine.
• aryl denotes an aromatic ring such as phenyl, optionally substituted by one or more alkyl radicals in dC 4 .
• Cs-Cs cycloalkyl refers to an aliphatic ring having from 3 to
• alkyl groups which are suitable for the implementation of the invention, mention may especially be made of methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl and n-hexyl groups. , cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, and allyl.
• the monosaccharide represented by S in formula (I) is chosen from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose, L-fucose, D-fucose, D-maltose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine; and advantageously denotes D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose.
• polysaccharides may contain up to 6 sugar units and are especially chosen from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a disaccharide associating a uronic acid chosen from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide containing at least a xylose advantageously chosen from xylobiose, methyl- ⁇ -xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose and preferably xylobiose which is composed of two molecules of xylose linked by a 1-4 bond. More particularly, S represents a
• R represents an alkyl radical in linear form, saturated with C 1 to C 20 , in particular with C 1 to C 10 , or unsaturated C 2 to C 20 , in particular C 2 to C 10 , or a branched or cyclic alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, C 3 to C 2 o; in particular C 3 to C 1 O, and optionally substituted as described above, S and R also retaining all the definitions previously given.
• R denotes a linear C 1 -C 4 radical, in particular C 1 -C 3 , optionally substituted with -OH, -COOH or -COOR " 2 , R" 2 being a saturated C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical. , especially ethyl.
• R denotes an unsubstituted linear C 1 -C 4 , especially C 1 -C 2 , alkyl radical, in particular ethyl.
• R represents an alkyl radical in linear form, saturated with C 1 to C 20 , in particular with C 1 to C 1 O, or unsaturated with C 2 to C 2 o, in particular C 2 to C 1 O, or a branched or cyclic alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, C 3 to C 20 , in particular C 3 to C 10 , and optionally substituted as described previously;
• S represents a monosaccharide as previously described;
• X represents -CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NR 1 R 2 ) -, -CH (R) - as previously described.
• R denotes a linear C 1 -C 4 , especially C 1 -C 3 radical, optionally substituted with -OH, -COOH or -COOR " 2 , R" 2 being a saturated C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, in particular ethyl ;
• S represents a monosaccharide as previously described;
• X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH 2 ) -, -CH (NHCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH) -, -CH (NHPh) -, -CH (CH 3 ) -, and more particularly a group -CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH 2 ) -, and preferably a group -CH (OH) -.
• R denotes a linear unsubstituted C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, in particular C 1 -C 2 , in particular ethyl;
• S represents a monosaccharide as previously described; especially D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
• X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH 2 ) -, and preferentially a -CH (OH) - group.
• Salts acceptable for non-therapeutic use of the compounds described in the present invention include conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids.
• mineral acids such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid.
• organic acid salts which may comprise one or more carboxylic acid, sulphonic acid or phosphonic acid groups. It may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids or aromatic acids. These acids may furthermore comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. These include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.
• the neutralization of the acid group (s) can be carried out with a mineral base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca (OH) 2 , NH 4 OH, Mg (OH) 2 or Zn (OH) 2 ; or with an organic base such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine.
• a mineral base such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca (OH) 2 , NH 4 OH, Mg (OH) 2 or Zn (OH) 2
• organic base such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine.
• This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and may therefore comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functions; mention may especially be made of 2-amino-methyl-2-propanol, triethanolamine, dimethylamino-2-propanol and 2-amino-2- (hydroxymethyl) -1,3-propanediol. Mention may also be made of lysine or 3- (dimethylamino) propylamine.
• Acceptable solvates for the compounds described in the present invention include conventional solvates such as those formed in the last step of preparing said compounds due to the presence of solvents. AT by way of example, mention may be made of solvates due to the presence of water or of linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.
• the C-anomeric bond in formulas (I) and (II) may be ⁇ or ⁇ .
• X represents in formulas (I) and (II) a function:
• R y represents a linear or branched alkyl radical and saturated C 1 -C 6 and in particular a methyl radical.
• the invention also extends to the optical and / or geometric isomers of the compounds of formulas (I) and (II), alone or as a mixture in all proportions, and to the physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds.
• the C-glycoside derivatives according to the invention can be used alone or in mixture and in any proportion.
• mixture relates to mixtures of the different isomeric forms of the same compound as well as mixtures of different compounds of general formula I and / or their respective isomeric forms.
• the C-glycoside derivatives may be of natural or synthetic origin, totally or partially purified from any preparation containing them.
• natural origin is meant a derivative extracted from a natural material like a plant, for example.
• synthetic origin is meant a derivative prepared by chemical synthesis or by biotechnology.
• totally or partially purified means here that, during its synthesis or relative to its natural state (fresh or dried plant or cells), the compounds of formulas (I) and (II) according to the invention have been concentrated and / or have been freed, respectively from at least a part of the secondary reaction products resulting from their synthesis or from at least a part of the other constituents of the natural material in which they are present.
• C-glycoside derivatives which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may notably be made of the following compounds: C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C- ⁇ - D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C- ⁇ -D- (3,4,5-triacetoxy) xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one, C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy- propane, C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, 1- (C- ⁇ -D-fucopyranoside) -propan-2-one, 1- (C- ⁇ -D-fucopyranoside) - propan-2-one, 1- (C- ⁇ -L-fucopyranoside) -propan-2-one, 1- (C- ⁇ -L-fucopyranoside) -propan-2-one, 1- (C- ⁇ -L-fucopyranoside)
• C-glycoside derivatives can increase the expression of mechano receptors in skin cells by inducing the activation of intracellular signals that lead to the transactivation of the integrin promoter and their expression.
• the C-glycosides according to the invention are chosen from: • C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one
• C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane can advantageously be used for the preparation of a composition according to the invention.
• the C-glycoside derivative is C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane in the form of a 30% solution by weight of active ingredient in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name "MEXORYL SBB ® ".
• R denotes an unsubstituted linear C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, in particular
• CrC 2 especially ethyl
• S represents a monosaccharide as previously described; especially D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
• the composition of the invention may contain at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of the mechanoreceptors in an amount representing from 0.00001% to 30% of the total weight of the composition, in particular in a quantity representing from 0.0001% to 10%, and even more preferably in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the tensioning agent and the saccharide compound when the tensioning agent and the saccharide compound are in the same composition and the tensioning agent is a polysaccharide containing at least one rhamnose, said saccharide compound increasing the expression of the mechano-receivers will contain no rhamnose.
• S represents a monosaccharide as previously described; especially D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
• X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH 2 ) -, and preferentially a -CH (OH) - group.
• composition may preferably comprise a tensing agent selected interpenetrated polymers comprising a polyurethane and an acrylic polymer; and C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.
• a tensing agent selected interpenetrated polymers comprising a polyurethane and an acrylic polymer; and C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.
• the composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin of the face and / or the body. It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and that does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), likely to divert the consumer from using this composition.
• the composition according to the invention may be a body or face care composition, or a make-up composition.
• the fatty phase may represent more than 90% of the total weight of the composition.
• emulsifiers used in the invention there may be mentioned for example glycerol stearate, polysorbate 60 and the PEG-6 / PEG-32 / glycol stearate sold under the name Tefose ® 63 by the company Gattefosse.
• hydrophilic gelling agents that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomer), acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides such as hydroxypropylcellulose, natural gums and clays, and, as lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids such as aluminum stearates and hydrophobic silica, ethylcellulose and polyethylene.
• carboxyvinyl polymers carboxyvinyl polymers
• acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers
• polyacrylamides polysaccharides
• polysaccharides such as hydroxypropylcellulose
• natural gums and clays and, as lipophilic gelling agents
• modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids such as aluminum stearates and hydrophobic silica,
• composition according to the invention is carried out according to the usual techniques, for example by application of creams, gels, serums, lotions, on the skin intended to be treated, in particular the skin of the body, of the face and / or neck.
• the invention also relates to a skin care kit comprising at least: a first composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of the mechano-receptors in the cells of the skin; a second composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one tensioning agent.
• the tensioning agent present in the second composition may be chosen from synthetic polymers, vegetable or animal proteins, polysaccharides of vegetable origin, in form or not of microgels, mixed silicates, colloidal particles of inorganic fillers and their mixtures.
• the invention also relates to a cosmetic skin treatment method comprising the application, via the use of at least one composition, of at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of the mechanoreceptors in the skin cells and of at least one tensing agent.
• the application can be performed simultaneously (1 composition) or sequentially (2 separate compositions).
• 'sequential application' is meant a successive (immediate) or delayed application.
• the saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in skin cells is chosen from a derivative of xylan, C-glycosides and their derivatives.
• the method according to the invention is intended in particular to promote the homeostasis of the skin and / or improve the mechanical properties of the skin (eg firmness, elasticity, tone), and / or improve the density of the skin, and / or promote the regeneration and / or reorganization of the papillary dermis, and / or promote the regeneration and / or reorganization of the extracellular matrix in addition to an immediate effect of smoothing the skin microrelief and wrinkles and fine lines, provided by the agent tensor and / or tensor device.
• the mechanical properties of the skin eg firmness, elasticity, tone
• composition (s) according to the invention may be applied to persons having a soft and / or flabby skin or to areas of the body presenting a loss of elasticity and / or firmness and / or tonicity.
• the composition may be applied to the face, belly and thighs.
• the application of the composition according to the invention or of the care kit can be carried out bi-weekly, and better still, daily, morning and / or evening.
• This device aims to measure the variations of extensibility, firmness / elasticity and tonicity of the skin.
• the device imposes a twist in the plane of the skin for a given time: the skin is then subjected to a stretch that corresponds to its extensibility (Ue); After stopping the torsion, the skin regains its original "shape", thus assessing its tone (Ur).
• the firmness / elasticity of the skin corresponds to the Ur / Eu ratio (tone on extensibility).
• the densiscore is a device to measure the density of the skin. It locally subjects the skin to a mechanical stress causing folds whose number and amplitude are directly related to skin density. The evaluation by trained experts of the skin profile subjected to the densiscore makes it possible to evaluate the density of the skin.
• the effect of the repeated application to the skin of tensing agents according to the invention on the reorganization of the extracellular matrix may also be confirmed and / or evaluated in vivo by an ultrasonic ultrasound technique.
• Degradation and / or disorganization of the extracellular matrix in the papillary dermis is a major cause of aging of the skin. It is partly responsible for the appearance of wrinkles, loss of density of firmness and extensibility of the skin. This degradation and / or disorganization of the extracellular matrix is even more visible in people with mature skin (> 40 years) or very mature (> 60-65 years).
• Ultrasound ultrasound provides 2D or 3D images of skin tissue.
• the intensity of the reflected echoes gives information on the nature, density and organization of the constituents of the dermis. In particular it highlights differences between the superficial dermis or papillary dermis and the deep dermis or reticular dermis. This technique thus makes it possible to evaluate the effect of the repeated application of the tensing agents according to the invention on the reorganization and the restructuring of the papillary dermis.
• the invention also relates to the cosmetic use, in a composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, of at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in the cells of the skin, as an agent for sensitizing the cells to mechanical tensions. induced by the topical application of a tensor agent.
• the saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in the cells of the skin is intended to potentiate and / or prolong the biomechanical effect of a tensor applied topically on the skin, at the level of the cells of the epidermis and or the dermis, in particular the effect of the tensioning agent on maintaining and / or increasing the thickness of the skin, smoothing wrinkles and fine lines and / or improving the mechanical properties of the skin .
• the biomechanical effect of the tensor agent at the level of the cells of the epidermis and of the dermis is notably defined by an improvement of the homeostasis of the skin, in particular a maintenance and / or an increase in the thickness of the skin, smoothing wrinkles and fine lines and / or improving the mechanical properties of the skin (eg firmness, elasticity, tone), and / or improving the density of the skin, and / or promoting regeneration and / or reorganization of the papillary dermis, and / or promote regeneration and / or reorganization of the extracellular matrix.
• an improvement of the homeostasis of the skin in particular a maintenance and / or an increase in the thickness of the skin, smoothing wrinkles and fine lines and / or improving the mechanical properties of the skin (eg firmness, elasticity, tone), and / or improving the density of the skin, and / or promoting regeneration and / or reorganization of the papillary dermis, and / or promote regeneration and /
• the saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in the cells of the skin is intended to potentiate and / or prolong the effect of the tensioning agent on the decrease of the epidermic differentiation processes and / or the improvement of the regeneration and / or renewal of the skin.
• the invention therefore also relates to the cosmetic use, in a composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, of at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in skin cells in association with a tensioning agent and / or a tensor device, or on the use of a composition or a kit containing said combination, to promote the improvement of skin homeostasis, the increase in the thickness of the skin, the improvement of the skin tone, density of skin, regeneration and / or reorganization of the papillary dermis, regeneration and / or reorganization of the extracellular matrix and / or improvement of firmness, elasticity and / or the tone of the skin.
• the saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in skin cells and the tensioning agent are packaged in two separate compositions.
• composition comprising at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in the cells of the skin;
• a tensor device for applying and / or maintaining in a controlled manner mechanical stresses on the skin.
• a tensor device for applying and / or maintaining in a controlled manner mechanical stresses on the skin.
• “Sequential application” means an embodiment in which the composition and the device are applied successively (immediately) or delayed in time on the skin; preferably, the composition will be applied before the device during the first application (s), the composition being intended to sensitize the cells to mechanical stresses provided by said device; the order of application does not matter in subsequent applications, for a daily treatment of one to two applications per day.
• the invention relates to a cosmetic skin care process comprising the simultaneous or sequential application:
• composition comprising at least one saccharide compound increasing the expression of mechanoreceptors in the cells of the skin;
• the method according to the invention is intended in particular to promote homeostasis of the skin and / or improve the mechanical properties of the skin (eg firmness, elasticity, tone) and / or promote the radiance of the complexion and / or improve the skin density and / or regeneration of the skin.
• the mechanical properties of the skin eg firmness, elasticity, tone
• the composition may be applied to the face, belly and thighs.
• the invention also relates to a method as described above for combating skin aging, and characterized in that a tensor device is used to apply and / or maintain traction and / or tension on the skin.
• the invention also relates to a method as described above for combating skin aging, and characterized in that a tensioning device is used to apply and / or maintain pressure on the skin.
• the application of the composition and the tensor device according to the invention can be carried out bi-weekly, preferably daily, in the morning and / or in the evening.
• the method according to the invention may consist for example of a daily application, morning and / or evening, simultaneously or sequentially (successive or delayed in time), the composition and the tensor device.
• the application is performed on the areas of the face and / or the body to be treated.
• the tensioning device intended to generate the mechanical stresses is applied to the skin for a duration preferably greater than or equal to 1 minute and may for example be of a few minutes (especially in the case of a massage with a massage instrument) to 1 or several hours (for example in the case of a controlled release patch of the asset).
• This joint use has the effect in particular of potentiating and / or prolonging the effect of the mechanical stresses induced by the application of said tensioning device on the improvement of the thickness of the skin, the improvement of the radiance of the complexion, the improvement of the density and / or improvement of the mechanical properties of the skin (firmness, elasticity, tonicity) and / or the improvement of skin regeneration and / or healing.
• the invention will now be described with reference to the following examples given for illustrative and non-limiting. In these examples, unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are expressed as percentages by weight.
• Figure 1 Example of mosaic deposition of the Hybridur 875 (x30 magnification).
• Figure 2 Example of Force versus displacement curve.
• the EPISKIN ® reconstructed epidermis used was obtained on day 15. They were placed in a maintenance medium for 8 hours. They were then transferred to DMEM / Ham F12 medium lacking EGF, pituitary extract and fetal calf serum. The epidermis were balanced in this medium for 24 hours.
• the mRNAs of the cells were extracted and purified with trireate, the mRNA of each culture is "reverse" transcribed using oligo dT and a P33-labeled deoxynucleotide triphosphate.
• Multiple "target” cDNA labeled sequences were therefore performed for each reconstructed EPISKIN ® epidermis. These targets were then hybridized, under optimized conditions, to cDNA "probes" in excess, fixed on the membranes. After washing, the amount of labeled target is revealed by autoradiography and by direct counting on Phosphorimager. Membrane analysis is performed by Imagequant software. The results are expressed in relative units of expression.
• the expression levels have been corrected for 1) the average background noise present on each membrane 2) differences in marking intensity of the different probes used. This correction is made on the basis of differences in the intensity of markings, reference genes.
• the ethylenic copolymer tested decreased the expression of several proteins that make up the stratum corneum such as corneodesmosin and loricrin by a factor of two, and suprabasin by a factor of 3, suggesting that the copolymer decreases the differentiation process. terminal.
• the acrylic copolymer also increases the expression of several proteins of the cytoskeleton intermediate filaments, the cytokeratins, which are found in particular in the fetal epithelia and the regenerative epithelia. After 24 hours of treatment, the expression of cytokeratin 1 is increased by a factor of 10 and the expression of cytokeratin 19 is increased by a factor of 3. These two cytokeratins, although present in the adult epidermis, were described as being expressed in many types of epithelial tissues, particularly in unstratified epithelia and fetal epithelia (Haake et al., Exp CeII Res., 1997 Feb 25; 231 (1): 83-95).
• the cytokeratin 2E / A expression is also increased by a factor of 10: this cytokeratin 2 has been described as being expressed both in an adult epidermis and in a fetal epidermis. Finally, the expression of cytokeratin 6 is increased by a factor of 4. This cytokeratin 6 has been described as being overexpressed in regenerative epidermis especially during healing (Mazzalupo et al., 2003 Feb; 226 (2)). : 356-65), suggesting that during the stresses provided by the application of the acrylic copolymer, the epidermis adopts regenerative epidermal characteristics.
• the ethylenic copolymer according to the invention reduces the expression of complexes necessary for the differentiation process of keratinocytes, such as SPRL, also called LEP10 by a factor of 5 and SPRL6 by a factor of 2.
• TGFb Modulation of TGFb expression.
• the expression of TGFb is increased by a factor of 4.
• This cytokine increases the expression of all fibrillar collagens as well as activator plasminogen type I, PAI1 and decreases the expression of several enzymes involved in the degradation of the extracellular matrix, the metalloproteinases.
• the induced TGFb could diffuse in the dermis and thus induce tissue repair.
• the increase in the expression of TGFb by the tensions can be considered as a witness of the sensitivity of the cells to the tensions generated by the acrylic latex tensor.
• the ethylenic copolymer decreases the expression of the metalloproteinase 3 involved, on the one hand, in the migration of the cells and, on the other hand, in the degradation of the extracellular matrix.
• the ethylenic copolymer thus inhibits the degradation of the extracellular matrix and plays a role in cell migration.
• the ethylene copolymer increased the expression of the chaperone protein HSP90A by a factor of 10.
• the HSP90A proteins play a fundamental role during the process of protein maturation. They regulate the conformation of kinase or transcription factors and thereby control their activity and degradation.
• the mechanical strength test consists of compressing the tensing agent to be tested on the surface of a flexible and deformable foam in compression until rupture.
• This foam support makes it possible to impose a large amount of deformation on the tensor agent to be tested deposited on the surface, and thus a quantification of its resistance to fracture.
• the substrate consists of a 13 mm thick neoprene foam.
• the tensing agent which is soluble or dispersible in water at a temperature ranging from 25 ° C to 50 ° C at a concentration of 7% by weight in water or at the maximum concentration by weight in which it forms in water at a temperature ranging from 25 ° C. to 50 ° C., a homogeneous medium visible to the naked eye is deposited on this substrate so as to obtain, after drying for 24 hours, a deposit with a thickness of 15 to 30 ⁇ m.
• the deposits were made using a 650 ⁇ m wet film shooter.
• the mechanical stress in compression is exerted using a cylindrical punch 1 mm in diameter; the speed of displacement of the punch being 0.1 mm / s.
• the reconstructed skin model consisting of human keratinocytes deposited on a support, often a dermis equivalent, and grown under conditions such that they enter a differentiation program leading to the formation of an epidermis equivalent, can be prepared according to the protocol described in Asselineau et al. (1987, Models in dermatology, Vol III, Ed Lowe & Maibach, 1-7).
• Hybridur 875 marketed by Air Products is prepared according to the patent specifications US5977215 and US5521246.
• the analyzes are carried out by two complementary imaging techniques: optical microscopy (multiphoton microscopy and transmission optical microscopy of semi-fine sections) and electron microscopy (scanning electron microscopy).
• Multiphoton microscopy makes it possible to quickly define, without prior preparation of the samples, the active agents that will present an activity on the extracellular matrix, and on what time scale.
• the samples are then analyzed by scanning electron microscopy, which allows a better resolution and thus to individualize the collagen fibrils.
• the observed changes in the extracellular matrix are related to changes in fibroblasts through optical microscopy studies with transmission of semi-thin sections.
• the mechanical stress induced by the tensor agents stimulated the fibroblasts leading to a reorganization of their cytoskeleton, and this from 48 hours of application, so on a very short kinetics.
• the EPISKIN ® reconstructed epidermis used are obtained on day 15. They are placed in a maintenance medium for 8 hours. They are then transferred to a medium DMEM / Ham F12 devoid of EGF, pituitary extract and fetal calf serum. The epidermis are balanced in this medium for 24 hours. The EPISKIN ® are then pretreated for 4h and 24h with 2 ⁇ g / ml of C-glycoside derivative on the surface of the keratinocytes.
• the first step is to perform a reverse transcription reaction.
• This step requires prior pretreatment of the total RNAs to remove traces of potentially contaminating DNA by treatment with the DNA-free system (Ambion).
• the reverse transcription of cDNA mRNA takes place in the presence of the oligo primer (dT) and the Superscript II enzyme (Gibco).
• PCR reactions (polymerase chain reactions) were performed by quantitative PCR with the "Light Cycler" system (Roche Molecular Systems Inc.) and according to the supplier's recommendations.
• This analysis system makes it possible to carry out fast and efficient PCR reactions, with a prior development of the analysis conditions of the different primers. It consists of two main components:
• thermal cycler optimized thanks to the use of glass capillaries and extremely fast heat transfers.
• a fluo-meter for continuously measuring the fluorescence intensity incorporated in the DNA (detection at 521 nm).
• the reaction mixture (10 ⁇ l final) introduced into capillaries for each sample is as follows:
• reaction mixture containing the enzyme taq DNA polymerase, the marker SYBR and Green I (fluorophore that intercalates in the double-stranded DNA, during the elongation step) and MgCl 2.
• Pentasodium ethylene diamine tetramethylene phosphate 0.05 g
• HOSTACERIN AMPS Ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide
• the ethylenic copolymer is formulated in a separate composition for the preparation of a skin care kit.
• Pentasodium ethylene diamine tetramethylene phosphate 0.05 g Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide (HOSTACERIN AMPS): 0.40 g Xanthan gum (RHODICARE S): 0.20 g C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane 1.00g
• Pentasodium ethylene diamine tetramethylene phosphonate 0.05 g
• Copolymer alkylacrylate (PEMULEN TR1) 0.60 g
• the alkyl acrylate copolymer, the preservatives and the sequestering agent are dispersed. Allowed to swell for about 45 minutes with stirring and then neutralized with sodium hydroxide.
• the primary emulsion is diluted with cyclopentasiloxane and apricot kernel oil, and this mixture is slowly incorporated with stirring into the aqueous phase.
• Hybridur 875 17.00 g
• Hybridur 875 is formulated in a separate composition for the preparation of a skin care kit.
• EXAMPLE 6 Effect of the combination of a saccharide compound increasing the expression of intèqrines and a tensor device for applying and / or maintain a tension on the skin.
• a patch having an elastic modulus greater than 500 MPa is used.
• Elastic module patches of 500MPa, 1000MPa, 1500MPa, 2000MPa are tested.
• the EPISKIN ® reconstructed epidermis used are obtained on D15. They are placed in a maintenance environment for 8 hours. They are then transferred to a medium
• DMEM / Ham F12 devoid of EGF, pituitary extract and fetal calf serum. The epidermis are balanced in this medium for 24 hours.
• the EPISKIN ® are then pretreated for 4 h and 24 h by 2 ⁇ g / ml C-glycoside derivative such as C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one on the surface of keratinocytes.
• a mechanical-type patch is applied to the EPISKIN ® already subject to a voltage, in this culture medium and left in contact with the epidermis for 24 hours in a chamber thermostated at 37 ° C and 40% humidity relative.
• the first step is to perform a reverse transcription reaction.
• This step requires prior pretreatment of the total RNAs to remove traces of potentially contaminating DNA by treatment with the DNA-free system (Ambion).
• the reverse transcription of cDNA mRNA takes place in the presence of the oligo primer (dT) and the Superscript II enzyme (Gibco).
• PCR reactions (polymerase chain reactions) were performed by quantitative PCR with the "Light Cycler" system (Roche Molecular Systems Inc.) and according to the supplier's recommendations.
• This analysis system makes it possible to carry out fast and efficient PCR reactions, with a prior development of the analysis conditions of the different primers. It consists of two main components:
• thermal cycler optimized thanks to the use of glass capillaries and extremely fast heat transfers.
• a fluo-meter for continuously measuring the fluorescence intensity incorporated in the DNA (detection at 521 nm).
• the reaction mixture (10 ⁇ l final) introduced into capillaries for each sample is as follows:
• reaction mixture containing the enzyme taq DNA polymerase, the marker SYBR and Green I (fluorophore that intercalates in the double-stranded DNA, during the elongation step) and MgCl 2.
• Fluorescence incorporation into the amplified DNA is measured continuously during PCR cycles. This system makes it possible to obtain fluorescence measurement curves as a function of PCR cycles and thus to evaluate a relative expression value for each marker. The number of cycles is determined from the "exit" points of the fluorescence curves. For the same marker analyzed, the longer a sample leaves (high cycle number), the lower the initial copy number of the mRNA. The value of RE (relative expression) is expressed in arbitrary units according to the following formula: (1 / 2number of cycles) x 10 6 . b) Device for applying tension and pressure on the skin
• a device of the TA-XT2i texture analyzer type sold by the company Stable Micro System is used. This analyzer is suitable for application on Episkin ® and has a hemispherical head.
• Episkin ® can thus be applied with tension and compression (pressure) at different conditions ranging from 5MPa to 90MPa, in particular 5MPa, 10MPa, 20MPa, 50MPa and 90MPa. The same operating procedure as that described in a) is followed.
• Pentasodium ethylene diamine tetramethylene phosphate 0.05 g
• HOSTACERINE AMPS Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide
• phase A to about 75 ° C. carry out the emulsion by incorporating phase A into phase B.
• the composition is applied to the skin of the face and / or of the body and the area of skin on which said composition has been applied is massaged with a manual massage instrument of the Environ Cosmetic Roll-Cit® type.
• the duration of the massage can range from 1 minute to several minutes to optimize the desired effect on the homeostasis of the skin and / or the mechanical properties of the skin.
• Example B Cosmetic Composition in the Form of an E / H / E Emulsion
• Pentasodium ethylene diamine tetramethylene phosphonate 0.05 g
• Copolymer alkylacrylate 0.60 g
• This composition is applied to the areas of the body where the skin is soft and / or flabby, in particular the belly and / or the thighs.
• a massage is then performed using a Lift ⁇ ®-type device for a period ranging from 10 to 30 minutes to optimize the desired effect on the elasticity and / or the firmness of the skin.
• HOSTACERINE AMPS A- Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide (HOSTACERINE AMPS) 2.00 g
• the skin area to be treated is massaged in the morning with a manual massage instrument of the Environ Cosmetic Roll-Cit® type.
• the duration of the massage can range from 1 minute to several minutes to optimize the desired effect on the homeostasis of the skin and / or the mechanical properties of the skin.
• the evening is applied the above-described composition.

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