EP1913196B1 - A process for dyeing of wool or silk and their blends (fibre /yarn/fabric) with indigo - Google Patents

A process for dyeing of wool or silk and their blends (fibre /yarn/fabric) with indigo Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1913196B1
EP1913196B1 EP06756266.0A EP06756266A EP1913196B1 EP 1913196 B1 EP1913196 B1 EP 1913196B1 EP 06756266 A EP06756266 A EP 06756266A EP 1913196 B1 EP1913196 B1 EP 1913196B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
silk
wool
dyeing
substrate
indigo
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Not-in-force
Application number
EP06756266.0A
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German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP1913196A2 (en
EP1913196A4 (en
Inventor
Jangi Lal Malwa Industries Limited OSWAL
Rishi Malwa Industries Limited OSWAL
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Malwa Industries Ltd
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Malwa Industries Ltd
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Publication date
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Publication of EP1913196A2 publication Critical patent/EP1913196A2/en
Publication of EP1913196A4 publication Critical patent/EP1913196A4/en
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Publication of EP1913196B1 publication Critical patent/EP1913196B1/en
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/322—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
    • D06M13/46—Compounds containing quaternary nitrogen atoms
    • D06M13/463—Compounds containing quaternary nitrogen atoms derived from monoamines
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/02—Material containing basic nitrogen
    • D06P3/04—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
    • D06P3/14—Wool
    • D06P3/141—Wool using vat or sulfur dyes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
    • D06M2101/12—Keratin fibres or silk

Definitions

  • This invention relates to a process for dyeing of wool, silk or their blends (fibre/yarn/fabric) in tandem with indigo.
  • this invention relates to a pretreatment of wool, silk or their blends in order to render it receptive to indigo dyeing.
  • the literature on wool discloses that the molecular grid of wool (Keratin) consists of polypeptide chains bound together by salt linkages and the covalent disulphide (-S-S) linkages. Such a literature further discloses that the disulphide bond is easily and readily degraded in the presence of alkali. Alkali disrupts the disulphide bonds and the fission of disulphide bonds results in the formation of thiol groups, which are very labile. It is known that as a natural polyamide or polypeptide, silk Fibroin (degummed silk) exhibits free amino, carboxyl and phenolic substitutes with accessible hydroxyl groups. Silk and wool have a slightly cationic character with an isoelectric point at about pH 5.0.
  • silk fibroin or wool takes on a positive charge through absorption of hydrogen ions.
  • the resulting electric charge can be counter balanced with negatively charged anions of the dye, whilst dyeing with anionic dyes such as acid, metal complex, direct and reactive dyes.
  • indigo dyeing is carried out under highly alkaline pH values and that leuco indigo has an anionic charge.
  • silk and wool have a tendency to lose their cationic property in presence of alkali. Both fibre and the dye being anionic under alkaline conditions, the net result is loss of dye-fibre affinity, lighter dyeing and poor fastness.
  • Two of the silk properties that determine its colour behaviour are, firstly, very fine fibre fibrils and, secondly high fiber orientation. These fine fibrils produce a large fiber surface. Such a large fiber surface results in the colour yield being very low and about twice as much dye is required for achieving a given dark shade. Further, the fastness is poor. A large fiber surface also leads to a high dye-strike rate even at very low temperature resulting into rapid saturation at the fiber surface and unlevel dyeing. The high orientation of the fibres, which is a barrier to diffusion, causes a very slow rate of further dye absorption, after the first rapid saturation.
  • the surface of silk is very easily chafed by abrasion particularly when the material is in wet swollen state.
  • the polypeptide chains of silk fibroin may hydrolyze in boiling water or in steam. This becomes critical in the presence of acids or alkalis. Higher concentrations of alkalis rapidly dissolve silk and wool. Degradation of silk and wool is determined by pH and the type of alkali. The mechanical stress leads to splicing of silk threads, which is severe and irreparable damage.
  • indigo dyeing is conventionally carried out under highly alkaline pH values. Both silk and wool would cease to be cationic under alkaline conditions and would assume anionic character losing electrostatic affinity for anionic leuco indigo. The result would be lighter and skittery dyeing and poor fastness.
  • the rope/slasher indigo dyeing machine is a long battery of several dip-squeeze-air modules with pre-wet, Pre-wet washes and post-dye-wash off boxes.
  • the yarn passage through the said machine would be as long as 400-500 mtrs.
  • At dyeing speed of for example 18-20 mtrs/minute the yarn runs through hostile environment; for 25 minutes including long exposure to caustic soda, hot washes and mechanical stresses. All these could deteriorate the mechanical properties of silk and wool.
  • GB 448,272 discloses a process for dyeing fibrous materials suitable for the textile industry with vat dyestuffs consisting of pre-treating the fibrous material with quaternary ammonium compounds.
  • GB 372,325 discloses a process for improving the softness or purity of fibrous materials such as textiles by treatment with aqueous solutions of amines or ammonium bases which contain at least one alkyl or cycloalkyl radical with at least eight carbon atoms, or water-soluble salts of the bases.
  • US 4,615,709 discloses cationic compounds used for improving the dyeing properties of a textile material by treating the textile material before or after dyeing with an anionic dye.
  • An object of this invention is to propose a novel process for the dyeing of wool, silk or blends thereof with indigo in conventional dyeing machines.
  • Yet another object of this invention is to propose a novel pretreatment process for dyeing of wool, silk or blends thereof with indigo.
  • Still another object of this invention is to propose a novel process for the dyeing of wool, silk or blends thereof with indigo, which reduces the severity of dyeing conditions.
  • a further object of this invention is to propose a novel process for the dyeing of wool, silk or blends thereof with indigo, which avoids any damage being caused to wool or silk.
  • a still further object of this invention is to propose a novel process for the dyeing of wool, silk or blends thereof with indigo, which provides a dark and level indigo shade.
  • Yet further object of this invention is to propose a novel process for the dyeing of wool, silk or blends thereof with indigo, which provides adequate fastness.
  • Still a further object of this invention is to propose a novel process for the dyeing of wool or silk or blends thereof with indigo, which is efficient.
  • a mordanting of wool and silk in the form of cationization on line enhances dye-fibre affinity by virtue of imparted cationic dye-combining sites for indigo which is anionic in alkaline media. Such mordanting also reduces the heterogeneity in the substrate and offer thereby level dyeing.
  • Wool and silk are sensitive to alkali and might degrade significantly when in contact with alkali particularly caustic soda for any appreciable length of time. In case of wool, such a normally negative point is instead taken advantage of by using generated thiol groups as additional dye combining sites.
  • a process for the pretreatment of wool, silk or blends thereof comprising the step of online cationization of silk, wool or blends thereof to render it receptive to indigo dyeing by imparting a cationic charge and generating dye-combining sites.
  • the invention provides a process for the on-line pre-treatment of a substrate comprising wool, silk or blends thereof rendering the substrate receptive for a subsequent step of indigo dyeing, the pre-treatment step comprising generating dye combining sites by: (i) cationisation on the substrate; and (ii) treatment with caustic soda; for a period sufficient to generate said sites, wherein pre-treatment step (i) includes the step of cationising the substrate by passing the substrate through a pre-treatment bath containing a cationising compound solution followed by aeration such that the cationising compound can penetrate into the substrate, and wherein the pre-treatment step is carried out for 5 to 30 seconds and the aeration is carried out for 30 to 180 seconds.
  • the treatment comprises in the step of cationization by passing wool, silk or blends thereof through pre-treatment baths and then subjecting to the step of a passage in air, which is online.
  • the online pre-treatment could be effected either at ambient temperature or at subambient temperature, for example, at 12-15°C.
  • the pre-treatment bath comprises 3- to 120 gpl, and preferably 3 to 80 gpl of cationizing compound and 3 to 25 gpl of caustic soda either separately or in admixture.
  • the step of dyeing comprises in passing in tandem the pretreated silk, wool or blend through a plurality of indigo dye baths following the dip-squeeze-air (oxidation) steps.
  • the dye bath contains (leuco) indigo, soda ash sodium hydroxide, sodium hydrosulphite and known chemical auxiliaries.
  • wool and silk have a tendency to lose its cationic charge in the presence of alkali.
  • the addition of alkali to the dye bath is necessary in order to render the dye soluble.
  • each dye bath contains 1.0 to 3.5 gpl indigo and upto 8 dye baths may be provided.
  • the passage of wool or silk through each dye bath is for a period of 5 to 30 seconds each followed by the step of squeez and oxidation for a period of 30 to 180 seconds for each step of oxidation.
  • the dye-bath recipe contains soda ash mostly and between 15-20 gp1, in place of caustic soda. The latter is used for fine tuning of dye bath pH.
  • the caustic soda and the cationizing chemical in the pre-treatment are kept at subambient treatment in accordance with on embodiment of this invention. This is to reduce the severity of the process and help substrate retain its original strength.
  • the online pretreatment step in distinction to a batch process.
  • One of the aspects of the present invention resides in the online pretreatment step which provides a short period of contact of wool, silk of its blends with caustic soda and cationizing chemicals. It is known that wool, silk or its blend is sensitive to caustic soda. Thus, one of the aspects of the present invention is to ensure that the wool, silk or its blends is not deteriorated or damaged by the pretreatment step, which is ensured by a reduced contact period with the cationizing chemicals by such an online step.
  • the wool yarn was subjected to online cationization.
  • the original sample as well as the cationized sample were then analyzed for their nitrogen contents by Kjeldahl method.
  • the sample showed increase in nitrogen content over the control by 0.35%.
  • the nitrogen content of the cationizing chemical viz., 3-chloro-2-hydroxy propyl trimethyl ammonium chloride is 9.18%.
  • the nitrogen increase in case of silk was 0.2% which means 3.3 gms of cationizing chemical was deposited onto 100 gms of silk.
  • the pretreatment apparatus contains Box 1 and Box 2 with squeeze rollers SR1 therebetween.
  • First box Box 1 may contain cationizing chemical solution followed by aeration thereafter which allows time for cationizing chemical to penetrate well into wool/silk substrate.
  • the second box Box 2 may contain caustic soda solution also followed by aeration.
  • Box 1 may contain both cationizing chemicals and caustic soda.
  • the second box Box 2 in such an instance could be empty-or could be used for a water-rinse
  • Indigo dyeing then follow in tandem, with conventional and known steps of indigo dyeing, viz., dip-squeeze-air.
  • the pretreated substrate then passes through a plurality of dye boxes, for example 1 to 8 dye boxes, followed each time by aeration.
  • the substrate is then subjected to post dyeing wash off in wash boxes and then passed through drying cans.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
EP06756266.0A 2005-06-28 2006-06-27 A process for dyeing of wool or silk and their blends (fibre /yarn/fabric) with indigo Not-in-force EP1913196B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IN1674DE2005 2005-06-28
PCT/IN2006/000216 WO2007000775A2 (en) 2005-06-28 2006-06-27 A process for dyeing of wool or silk and their blends (fibre /yarn/fabric) with indigo

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1913196A2 EP1913196A2 (en) 2008-04-23
EP1913196A4 EP1913196A4 (en) 2010-01-06
EP1913196B1 true EP1913196B1 (en) 2018-07-25

Family

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Family Applications (1)

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EP06756266.0A Not-in-force EP1913196B1 (en) 2005-06-28 2006-06-27 A process for dyeing of wool or silk and their blends (fibre /yarn/fabric) with indigo

Country Status (4)

Country Link
US (1) US20100205751A1 (enExample)
EP (1) EP1913196B1 (enExample)
JP (2) JP2008544111A (enExample)
WO (1) WO2007000775A2 (enExample)

Families Citing this family (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP5260856B2 (ja) * 2006-11-10 2013-08-14 有限会社藍布屋 天然藍による木綿藍染め物品の染色方法
CN103215803B (zh) * 2013-04-02 2016-01-06 浙江喜得宝丝绸科技有限公司 一种桑蚕丝织物的脱胶方法
ES2428765B1 (es) * 2013-10-04 2014-03-27 Tejidos Royo S.L. Tejido Denim con características ignífugas y proceso de tintura de la urdimbre con colorante azul índigo
GB2526044A (en) * 2014-01-10 2015-11-18 Perachem Ltd Methods relating to wool treatment
CN109183465A (zh) * 2018-10-18 2019-01-11 上海嘉麟杰纺织科技有限公司 一种提高羊毛成衣色光深度的植物染色方法
KR102413020B1 (ko) * 2020-03-26 2022-06-24 한국실크연구원 실크의 천연 인디고 염색 방법

Citations (2)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
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US4742589A (en) * 1985-07-22 1988-05-10 Sando Iron Works Co., Ltd. Method for continuous liquid treatment of a cloth

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4615709A (en) * 1983-12-16 1986-10-07 Ipposha Oil Industries Co., Ltd. Cationic compound, process for preparing same and treatment of textile material for improved dyeing
US4742589A (en) * 1985-07-22 1988-05-10 Sando Iron Works Co., Ltd. Method for continuous liquid treatment of a cloth

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2007000775A2 (en) 2007-01-04
US20100205751A1 (en) 2010-08-19
WO2007000775B1 (en) 2007-07-12
JP2015007305A (ja) 2015-01-15
EP1913196A2 (en) 2008-04-23
JP2008544111A (ja) 2008-12-04
EP1913196A4 (en) 2010-01-06
WO2007000775A3 (en) 2007-05-31

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