EP0941045B1 - Composition capillaire revitalisante perfectionnee - Google Patents

Composition capillaire revitalisante perfectionnee Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0941045B1
EP0941045B1 EP97945359A EP97945359A EP0941045B1 EP 0941045 B1 EP0941045 B1 EP 0941045B1 EP 97945359 A EP97945359 A EP 97945359A EP 97945359 A EP97945359 A EP 97945359A EP 0941045 B1 EP0941045 B1 EP 0941045B1
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Prior art keywords
conditioning
hair
alkyl
water
hair conditioning
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP0941045A1 (fr
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Amrit M. Patel
Tracey A. Aldrich
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Colgate Palmolive Co
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Colgate Palmolive Co
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5422—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge nonionic
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5426—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to post shampoo hair conditioning compositions containing a water-soluble nonionic cellulose polymer thickening agent, a dipolar solubilizer and a hair conditioning mixture of a water-soluble mono-C12 - C22 alkyl monomethyl ethoxy substituted quaternary ammonium salt conditioning agent having 10 - 20 ethenoxy groups in the molecule and a C10 - C18 alkyl ethoxy methyl carboxylic acid having 1 to 23 ethenoxy groups in the molecule in an aqueous medium.
  • Such compositions are single phase and are devoid of physical stability problems.
  • one useful application of the inventive compositions is as a rinse-off hair conditioner.
  • the popular creme rinse hair conditioners employ fatty alcohols such as cetyl and stearyl alcohol and a quaternary ammonium salt to provide conditioning properties.
  • fatty alcohols such as cetyl and stearyl alcohol and a quaternary ammonium salt to provide conditioning properties.
  • the fatty alcohols are not water-soluble and, therefore, must be emulsified with either nonionic or cationic surfactants in the product.
  • the resultant products are opaque, sometimes lumpy and non-free flowing and often separate over a period of time because they are not thermodynamically stable.
  • rinse-off hair conditioner products utilize water-insoluble silicones as the conditioning agents. These products, too, must contain said silicones in emulsified form and, therefore, are opaque. Further, such products may separate with the passage of time due to a lack of physical stability.
  • Rinse-off hair conditioners which are single phase and devoid of problems of physical instability also have been employed.
  • U.S. 3,655,865 discloses a clear hair conditioning formulation containing oleyl dimethylbenzyl ammonium chloride conditioning agent, a water-soluble silicone copolyol and water.
  • WO-A-9 210 163 discloses hair conditioning shampoo compositions which comprise an anionic surfactant component, a dispersed, insoluble, nonionic silicone hair conditioning agent, a soluble cationic amino or quaternary ammonium conditioning surfactant and an aqueous carrier.
  • the conditioning surfactant may be quaternary ammonium salts of e.g.
  • Example 1 discloses in Example 1 a clear conditioner comprising hydroxyethyl cellulose, a mixture of cationic polymers--Polyquaternium 10 and Quaternium 23--, propylene glycol, polyvinylpyrrolidone and water.
  • U.S. 4,954,335 discloses in Example 6 a clear conditioner containing a di-higher alkyl quaternary ammonium salt conditioner, a soluble silicone, an amidoamine conditioner, a nonionic surfactant, hexylene glycol, hydroxyethyl cellulose and water.
  • Example 1 discloses in Example 1 a composition containing Polyquaternium 10, cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride conditioner, dimethicone copolyol, nonionic surfactant and water.
  • these single phase hair conditioning products provide only moderate conditioning effects and have not achieved widespread consumer acceptance.
  • a hair conditioning composition comprising a mixture of a mono-C12 - C22 alkyl quaternary ammonium salt having ethenoxy groups in the molecule, a C10 - C14 alkyl ethoxy methyl carboxylic acid having 1 - 23 ethoxy groups in the molecule, a water-soluble nonionic cellulose thickener and a dipolar solvent dispersed in an aqueous medium which is primarily water provides a single phase composition which exhibits high hair conditioning effects when applied to the hair as a rinseoff conditioner.
  • a primary object of the present invention is to provide a single phase hair rinse conditioner which imparts high conditioning effects--softness and manageability, static control and ease of combing and styling--when applied to the hair after shampooing.
  • Another object of the present invention is to provide an economical hair rinse conditioner containing minimum concentrations of essential active ingredients which can be manufactured using low amounts of thermal energy.
  • the new and useful hair conditioning composition comprises, by weight, 0.8% to 1.4% of a water-soluble nonionic cellulose polymer as a thickener; 0.5% to 2.0% of a dipolar solvent for the conditioning agents; 0.2% to 3.0% of a water soluble, mono-C12 - C22 alkyl, monomethyl ethenoxy substituted quaternary ammonium salt conditioning agent having 10 - 20 ethenoxy groups in the molecule; 0.2% to 2.5% of a C10 - C18 alkyl ethoxy methyl carboxylic acid having 1 to 23 ethoxy groups in the molecule; and the balance being an aqueous medium, said composition being free of water-insoluble C12 - C22 alkanol conditioning agents and conditioning amounts of silicone conditioning agent.
  • the final product is a clear liquid having a viscosity in the range of 2 to 10 Pa.s (2,000 to 10,000 centipoises (cps)) and a pH in the range of 3.5 to 4.3 at 24°C.
  • the resultant composition exhibits better hair conditioning effects at use concentrations than identical compositions containing either of the essential hair conditioning agents as the sole hair conditioning agent.
  • the present invention relates to a hair conditioning composition
  • a hair conditioning composition which includes, in addition, as an additional conditioning agent a hair conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of (a) 0.05% to 1.0% by weight of a water-soluble mono-C8 - C22 alkyl tri-C1 - C3 alkyl quaternary ammonium salt, (b) 0.01% to 1.5% of a water-soluble cationic polymer conditioning agent and (c) 0.25% to 5.0% of C10 - C18 alkanol ethoxylate nonionic conditioning agent having an HLB in the range of 6.0 to 12.0 and (d) mixtures of the foregoing.
  • the preferred compositions exhibit high hair conditioning effects when used as rinse-off hair conditioners.
  • a dimethicone copolyol is included as a shine agent.
  • compositions contain safe chemicals which are not irritating to the skin, are non-toxic and environmentally acceptable. Also, the compositions contain minimal concentrations of the essential components, yet provide good conditioning effects to the hair when employed as an after-shampoo conditioner. Further, said compositions can be manufactured with a minimal input of thermal energy.
  • the suitable mono-C12 - C22 alkyl, monomethyl ethoxylated quaternary ammonium salt conditioning agents employed in the inventive compositions have been used in the prior art as antistats in the treatment of textiles. They are water-soluble cationic surfaciants.
  • the suitable mono-higher alkyl ethoxylated quaternary ammonium salts have the following formula: wherein R1 is a higher C12 - C22 alkyl group, y and z are integers from 1 to 15 with the sum of y plus z being 10 to 20 and X is an anion selected from the group consisting of chloride, bromide, ethosulfate and methosulfate.
  • the higher alkyl group may be a mixture of higher alkyl groups containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • Representative examples of mono-higher alkyl ethoxylated quaternary ammonium salts include coco-alkyl (C8 - C18) methyl ethoxylated (15) ammonium chloride, tallow-alkyl (C12 - C18) methyl ethoxylated (15) ammonium chloride and polyoxyethylene (15) stearmonium chloride.
  • the higher alkyl group will contain 16 to 22 carbon atoms, with polyoxyethylene stearmonium chloride being most preferred. The latter compound is preferred and is described in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary as PEG-15 stearmonium chloride.
  • the mono-C12 - C22 alkyl, monomethyl ethoxylated quaternary ammonium salt is effective as a hair conditioner and is present in the inventive composition in an amount of 0.2% to 3.0%, preferably 0.3% to 2.2%, and most preferably 0.5% to 1.5%, by weight.
  • the other essential hair conditioning agent in the inventive compositions is a higher alkyl ether carboxylic acid.
  • the alkyl ether carboxylic acid is a C10 - C18 alkyl ethenoxy methyl carboxylic acid having 1 to 23 ethenoxy groups in the molecule.
  • Suitable carboxylic acids include deceth-3 methyl carboxylic acid, laureth-3 methyl carboxylic acid, myreth-2 methyl carboxylic acid and, laureth-2 to 17 methyl carboxylic acid. These acids are described in the CTFA International Cosmetic Dictionary without reference to the methyl group, e.g., laureth-3 carboxylic acid. Such acids are available in liquid form.
  • said ethoxylated methyl carboxylic acid will contain 10 to 14 carbons in the alkyl group and 2 to 10 ethenoxy groups in the molecule.
  • a preferred compound is laureth-3 methyl carboxylic acid which is purchased from Hoechst as a 93% active liquid. These materials have been used as a component in shampoos and in antiperspirants/deodorants, but are used herein as hair conditioning agents.
  • the proportion of said carboxylic acid in the inventive hair conditioning composition is from 0.2% to 2.5%, preferably 0.3% to 1.8%, most preferably 0.5% to 1.2%, by weight.
  • the mixture of the foregoing essential hair conditioning agents exhibits high conditioning values and the resultant high value is thought to be due to coaction between the materials. More specifically, when used as the sole conditioning agent in the inventive compositions, the maximum conditioning value noted in the conditioning evaluation hereinafter described is 3 or 4, but in combination a value of 7 is obtained. Such improved conditioning is unexpected.
  • the third essential component in the inventive hair conditioner compositions is the water-soluble nonionic cellulose polymer thickener ingredient.
  • Suitable cellulose polymers include hydroxyethylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylcellulose and hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, with hydroxyethylcellulose being preferred.
  • the degree of substitution of hydroxyethyl groups on a molar basis is 1.5 to 3.
  • a particularly preferred hydroxyethylcellulose is available under the tradename Natrosol 250 HHR. It has a molar substitution of 2.5 and a 1% solution in water yields a viscosity in water of from 3.4 to 5 Pa ⁇ s (3.400 to 5,000 cps) at 24°C using a Brookfield viscometer.
  • the cellulose polymers are employed to control the viscosity of the resultant hair conditioning composition.
  • the proportion of nonionic cellulose polymer in the hair conditioning composition is 0.8% to 1.4%, preferably 1% to 1.4%, most preferably 1.1% to 1.3%, by weight.
  • the fourth essential ingredient in the inventive hair conditioning compositions is a dipolar solvent selected from the group consisting of propylene glycol, glycerol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, lanolin acetate and water soluble lanolin derivatives, e.g., ethoxylated lanolin.
  • This ingredient is effective to solubilize the conditioning agents herein in the aqueous medium.
  • a preferred solvent is propylene glycol which is a clear, viscous, colorless liquid which is hygroscopic and completely miscible with water. Also, propylene glycol can penetrate the hair shaft and remain there after rinsing.
  • the amount of solvent employed in the hair conditioner composition is 0.5% to 2.0%, preferably 0.8% to 1.6%, and most preferably 0.9% to 1.1%, by weight.
  • the final essential ingredient in the inventive hair conditioning composition is an aqueous medium which is primarily water, preferably deionized water. Since some of the C8 - C22 alkyl tri-C1 - C3 alkyl quaternary salts may be supplied in admixtures with a C2 - C3 alcohol, e.g., isopropanol, the aqueous medium may contain a small amount of said C2 - C3 alcohol. Further, if desired, additional amounts of said C2 - C3 alcohol may be added to the composition although generally it is desirable to minimize the amounts of ethanol and isopropanol present.
  • the proportion of the aqueous medium is in the range of 75.3% to 98.2%, preferably 87.9% to 97%, most preferably 91.7% to 96.0%, by weight of the hair conditioning composition.
  • additional hair conditioning agents selected from the group consisting of (a) mono-C8 - C22 alkyl tri-C1 - C3 alkyl quaternary ammonium salts, (b) a water-soluble cationic polymer conditioning agent, (c) a C10 - C18 alkanol ethoxylate having an HLB in the range of 6.0 to 12.0 and (d) mixtures of the foregoing.
  • These added hair conditioning agents result in enhanced hair conditioning effects at use concentrations.
  • preferred compositions will include hair conditioning agents (a) and (b) above, with the most preferred compositions containing agents (a), (b) and (c).
  • the mono-C8 - C22 alkyl tri-C1 - C3 alkyl quaternary ammonium salt which preferably is present in the inventive hair conditioning compositions has the following formula: wherein R1 is a higher C8 - C18 alkyl group; R2, R3 and R4 are each a C1 - C3 alkyl and X is an anion selected from the group consisting of chloride, bromide, methosulfate and ethosulfate. These compounds are water-soluble to varying degrees, with the. higher molecular weight homologs generally being less soluble. Also, these ingredients lower the surface tension of water and are good antistatic agents.
  • the higher alkyl group will be C14 - C18 alkyl
  • the lower alkyl groups will be methyl
  • the anion will be chloride.
  • Suitable compounds include trimethylcocoammonium chloride, trimethyhexadecylammonium chloride, trimethyltallowammonium methosulfate and trimethylstearylammonium chloride, with trimethylhexadecyl ammonium chloride--cetrimonium chloride according to the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary--being most preferred.
  • the proportion of this added quaternary ammonium conditioning agent generally will be 0.05% to 1.0%, preferably 0.05% to 0.50%, most preferably 0.06% to 0.3% by weight of hair conditioning composition.
  • the optional hair conditioning cationic polymer which preferably is present in the inventive conditioning compositions is selected from the group consisting of natural cellulose cationic polymers and non-cellulosic cationic polymers. Generally, these cationic polymers are water-soluble or, at a minimum, are soluble in the resultant composition. Satisfactory cationic polymers have a molecular weight of from 1,000 to 1,000,000, preferably 2,000 to 500,000. Usually, the lower the molecular weight, the higher the degree of substitution by the cationic, usually quaternary, group.
  • Suitable natural polymers which may be converted into the desired cationic polymers are hydroxy alkyl celluloses and alkyl hydroxy alkyl celluloses. Cationic hydroxy alkyl celluloses and their preparation are described in British Pat. No. 1,166,062 of Union Carbide. These cationic hydroxyethylcelluloses are marketed under the trade designation JR 125, JR 30M and JR 400 and are believed to have a molecular weight of 150,000 to 400,000 and a degree of substitution of a quaternary group of 0.3. Alkyl hydroxy alkyl celluloses having the same formula as hydroxy alkyl cellulose, but with additional alkyl substituents at other sites on the anhydroglucose unit also are available.
  • the cationic ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses are available under the tradename "Modocoll” with a molecular weight in the range of 50,000 to 500,000 and a degree of substitution of 0.1 to 0.8.
  • the preferred cationic cellulose polymer is Polyquaternium 10 which is a polymeric quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with a trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide.
  • cationic non-cellulose polymers are the dialkyldiallyl ammonium salt (e.g., halide) homopolymers or copolymers, e.g., dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride homopolymer, dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer and dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride/acrylic acid copolymer.
  • dialkyldiallyl ammonium salt e.g., halide
  • Preferred polymers include the homopolymer of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride sold under the tradename Merquat® 100 (Polyquaternium 6) having a charge density of 126, the copolymer of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride and acrylamide sold under the tradename Merquat® 550 (Polyquaternium 7) and the copolymer of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid sold under the tradename Merquat® 280 (Polyquaternium 22), with a mixture of Merquats® 100 and 550 being the most preferred cationic polymer.
  • the proportion of the cationic polymer ingredient generally will be 0.01% to 1.5%, preferably 0.03% to 0.6%, most preferably 0.05% to 0.4%, by weight of the hair conditioning composition.
  • the optional nonionic hair conditioning agent which preferably is present in the hair conditioning compositions is a C10 - C18 alkanol ethoxylate having an HLB in the range of 6.0 to 12.0.
  • HLB refers to the hydrophilic/lyophilic balance in the molecule and was developed by Atlas.
  • Suitable nonionic compounds include decyl alcohol ethoxylate (5 EO), lauryl alcohol ethoxylate (6 EO), stearyl alcohol ethoxylate (4 EO) and lauryl alcohol ethoxylate (4 EO).
  • Preferred alkanol ethoxylates contain 12 to 14 carbon atoms in the alkanol group and the most preferred compound is lauryl alcohol ethoxylate (6 EO).
  • the proportion of said alkanol ethoxylate in the hair conditioning composition generally will be 0.25% to 5.0%, preferably 0.5% to 3.0%, most preferably 0.75% to 2.0%, by weight.
  • a further preferred optional ingredient in the inventive hair conditioning compositions is a polydimethyl siloxane-polyether copolymer having a viscosity in the range of 1 ⁇ 10 -3 to 3 ⁇ 10 -3 m 2 /s (100 centistokes (cst) to 3000 cst) @ 24°C.
  • Such copolymers bear the CTFA designation dimethicone copolyol and satisfactory dimethicone copolyols are sold under the tradename Dow Corning ® Q2-5220.
  • This material is present in a non-conditioning proportion which generally is 0.05% to 1.5%, preferably 0.075% to 1.0%, most preferably 0.1% to 0.5%, by weight of the hair conditioning composition. When present, the dimethicone copolyol provides shine to the hair.
  • inventive hair conditioning compositions also may contain additional conventional components such as coloring agents, perfumes, preservatives such Kathon CG®, sequestering agents and brighteners such as Uvinul.
  • additional conventional components such as coloring agents, perfumes, preservatives such Kathon CG®, sequestering agents and brighteners such as Uvinul.
  • an opacifying agent such as ethylene glycol mono- or distearate may be included in an opacifying amount.
  • the total weight of these optional additives usually does not exceed 3% by weight of the composition, with the proportion of individual ingredients often being less than 1% by weight.
  • the hair conditioning compositions of the present invention generally will be in the form of a clear or transparent pourable liquid having a viscosity of 2 to 10 Pa ⁇ s (2,000 to 10,000 cps), preferably 4 to 8 Pa ⁇ s (4,000 to 8,000 cps), most preferably 5 to 7 Pa ⁇ s (5,000 to 7.000 cps) as measured using a Brookfield Viscometer with a #4 spindle rotating at 20 rpm at 24°C.
  • the pH will be in the range of 2.5 to 4.3 at 24°C. and preferably in the range of 3.5 to 4.25. Where necessary, the pH will be adjusted using aminomethylpropanol or aminomethylpropanediol.
  • the inventive conditioners are prepared by admixing the thickener with water at a temperature in the range of 10°C to 60°C. using sufficient agitation until a clear, homogeneous mixture is formed.
  • the solvent ingredient is admixed with the C10 - C14 alkyl ethoxy methyl carboxylic acid and the mono-C12 - C22 alkyl, mono-C1 - C3 alkyl ethoxylated quaternary salt ingredient with agitation in another mixing vessel to form a single phase liquid mixture and the latter mixture is added to the homogeneous mixture of thickener and water with agitation at a temperature in the range of 10°C to 60°C to form a single phase composition.
  • the perfume is included in the solvent mixture.
  • preservative and color and opacifier if any, are added sequentially to said single phase composition with agitation and the pH is adjusted as required to form the inventive hair conditioning composition.
  • mixing is controlled to avoid foaming.
  • the composition is prepared without the addition of external heat.
  • the process temperature is controlled in the range of 20°C to 30°C. Use of the so called “cold process” saves energy and the time required to raise or lower the temperature.
  • the conditioning properties are determined by combing hair tresses treated with the product using the fine teeth of the comb when wet and after drying.
  • 3.2 gm tresses of virgin, European brown hair obtained from DeMeo Brothers, Inc. are prepared with the root end of the hair at the top of the tress.
  • the tresses are rinsed with running tap water at 40.5°C and then 1 cc of the test product is worked into the tress with the fingers for one minute.
  • the treated tress is rinsed for 30 seconds and a second application of test product is worked into the tress for one minute followed by a 30 second rinsing.
  • each tress is rinsed for 60 seconds with 40.5°C running tap water and detangled by combing with the wide teeth of the comb.
  • the wetted tresses are maintained wet with deionized water and are combed by expert judges using the fine teeth of the comb.
  • the judges assign a rating of 1 to 10 for each tress, with 10 being easiest to comb and 1 representing no conditioning effect.
  • Each tress is combed by a minimum of 10 judges and the ratings averaged.
  • the hair tresses are evaluated while wet.
  • the procedure for dry combing is identical except that the hair tresses are dried before being combed.
  • the hair tresses are treated with product as described above and dried.
  • the dried tress is then combed by a skilled evaluator in a forceful, downward manner 20 times using the fine teeth of the comb.
  • the static on each is then evaluated on a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being excellent. Again, each tress is combed by 10 judges and the ratings are averaged. This evaluation is carried out in a constant temperature-constant humidity room.
  • Shine properties of the inventive compositions can be evaluated using a visual shine test as well as a light scattering machine.
  • a visual shine test treated tresses are evaluated by trained evaluators using a method which keeps the light intensity constant and the angle between the observor and the object constant.
  • the light scattering machine a single hair is held taut and irradiated with light at a prechosen angle and-and the amount of reflected light is measured.
  • inventive hair conditioning compositions are single phase at 24°C the compositions apparently are thermodynamically stable based on the results of aging for up to three months at -18°C, 0°C, 43°C and 49°C.
  • Example 1 describes a clear hair conditioning composition in accordance with the invention. % by wt. Hydroxyethylcellulose 1.2 Propylene glycol 1.0 Ethoquat® 18/25 (15 EO) 1.0 Laureth-3 carboxylic acid (3EO) 1.0 Water, perfume, color, preservative q.s. 100.00
  • the foregoing composition is prepared by dispersing the hydroxyethylcellulose in water with agitation followed by the addition of a premix of propylene glycol, Ethoquat® 18/25 and laureth-3 methyl carboxylic acid.
  • Said composition is clear at room temperature at pH 3,0 and has a viscosity of 6 Pa ⁇ s (6,000 cps.) as measured with a Brookfield viscometer rotating at 20 rpm using a #4 spindle at 24°C.
  • a conditioning value of 7 is obtained.
  • Example 1 For comparison purposes, the composition of Example 1 without the ethoxylated quaternary ammonium chloride and the laureth-3 methyl carboxylic acid ethoxylate exhibits a conditioning value of 1 in the described test for hair conditioning.
  • Example 1 The improved conditioning properties of the inventive compositions such as Example 1 are apparent from the conditioning results obtained using the prior art hair conditioner compositions set forth in the following examples. % by wt. Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 1.2 1.2 1.2 Propylene glycol 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Cetrimonium chloride 0.5 - - Polyquaternium 6 - 0.36 - Polyquaternium 7 - - 0.16 Water, perfume, color, preservative q.s q.s q.s. 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 Conditioning value 3.0 3.5 3.5
  • compositions of Examples 2 - 4 provide about one half of the conditioning properties as the inventive composition of Example 1. Furthermore, when the concentrations of the conditioning compounds in Examples 2 - 4 are reduced by 50% by weight, the conditioning values are essentially the same, namely 3.0, 3.5 and 2.5 respectively. Such results suggest that higher concentrations of the quaternary ammonium salts and polyquaternary ammonium salts--each well known conditioning agents--would not result in higher hair conditioning properties.
  • Examples 8 - 10 show that use of Ethoquad®18/25 (15 EO) as the sole conditioning agent results in a conditioning value in the conditioning test described herein at use concentrations of 3.0; and that increasing the concentration from 1% by weight to 2% by weight does not improve the hair conditioning properties.
  • Example 1 When the conditioning properties of the inventive composition set forth in Example 1 are contrasted with the conditioning properties achieved using Ethoquad® 18/25 (15 EO) as the sole conditioning agent--Examples 8 - 10--or laureth-3 methyl carboxylic acid as the sole conditioning agent--Examples 11 - 13--, it is apparent that the improved conditioning properties must be due to coaction between said conditioning agents.
  • Ethoquad® 18/25 15 EO
  • a particularly preferred inventive composition has the formula which follows: % by Wt. Hydroxyethyl cellulose 1.2 Propylene glycol 1.0 Ethoquad® 18/25 (15 EO) 1.0 Lauryl alcohol ethoxylate (6 EO) 1.0 Cetrimonium chloride 0.0625 Polyquaternium 6 (2) 0.12 Polyquaternium 7 (3) 0.04 Laureth-3 methyl carboxylic acid 1.0 Dimethicone copolyol 0.2 Water, perfume, color, preservative q.s.
  • composition illustrates that the addition of a water-soluble quaternary ammonium salt, e.g., cetrimonium chloride, a nonionic compound, e.g., lauryl alcohol ethoxylate (6EO), two cationic conditioning polymers, e.g., Polyquaternium 6 and 7, and a water-soluble silicone to the inventive compositions results in a hair conditioning composition which provides optimum conditioning as evidenced by a value of 10--the highest value--in the described hair conditioning test.
  • a water-soluble quaternary ammonium salt e.g., cetrimonium chloride
  • a nonionic compound e.g., lauryl alcohol ethoxylate (6EO)
  • two cationic conditioning polymers e.g., Polyquaternium 6 and 7
  • a water-soluble silicone which provides optimum conditioning as evidenced by a value of 10--the highest value--in the described hair conditioning test.
  • Example 14 When the composition of Example 14 is repeated with the omission of the lauryl alcohol ethoxylate and the laureth-3 methyl carboxylic acid and an increase in Polyguaternium 7 to .08% by weight, the resultant composition exhibits a conditioning value of 5.5. Such result again shows the need for the mixture of the higher alkyl ethoxylated quaternary ammonium salt and the laureth-3 methyl carboxylic acid as the conditioning agent.
  • Example 14 When the composition of Example 14 is prepared with the omission of Polyquaterniums 6 and 7 and the dimethicone copolyol--said ingredients being replaced by water--, the resultant hair conditioner exhibits a conditioning value of 8.5 in the described hair conditioning test.
  • the addition of the aminomethyl propanol increases the pH of the inventive compositions from 2.5 - 3.0 to between 3.5 and 4.25 and improves the viscosity stability at elevated temperatures, e.g., 49°C.
  • the viscosity at 24°C is between 5 and 7 Pa ⁇ s (5,000 cps. and 7,000 cps.) as measured by a Brookfield Viscometer using a #4 spindle rotating at 20 rpm.
  • inventive hair conditioning compositions are clear--single phase-- at room temperature (24°C) and are thermodynamically stable. Clarity is achieved because said compositions are free of water-insoluble C12 - C22 alkanol conditioning agents and of conditioning amounts of silicone conditioning, agents which are not soluble in the compositions. Typically, most silicone hair conditioning agents are water-insoluble and are not soluble in the hair conditioning composition.
  • a method of conditioning hair comprising the steps of contacting the hair with an effective amount of a single phase composition comprising a mixture of a nonionic cellulose polymer thickener, a dipolar solvent, a mono-C12 - C22 alkyl monomethyl ethoxy substituted quaternary ammonium salt conditioning agent containing 10 to 20 ethenoxy groups in the molecule and a C10 - C18 alkyl ethoxy methyl carboxylic acid having 1 to 23 ethoxy groups in the molecule in an aqueous medium, distributing said composition throughout the hair and combing said hair.
  • the hair may be either wet or dry when said conditioning composition is applied thereto.
  • An effective amount may be from 1 - 10 grams, preferably 2 to 6 grams of the inventive hair conditioner composition which either may be applied directly to the hair or, alternatively, may be mixed with water prior to application to the hair.

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Claims (18)

  1. Composition monophasique de conditionnement capillaire ayant des propriétés de conditionnement capillaire améliorées, comprenant, en poids, de 0,8 % à 1,4 % d'un polymère cellulosique non ionique soluble dans l'eau comme épaississant ; et de 0,5 % à 2,0 % d'un solvant dipolaire choisi parmi le groupe consistant en le propylène glycol, le butylène glycol, le dipropylène glycol, l'acétate de lanoline et les dérivés de la lanoline solubles dans l'eau ; de 0,2 % à 3,0 % d'un agent de conditionnement de type sel d'ammonium quaternaire de mono(alkyle en C12-C22)monométhylé à substituant éthoxy contenant de 10 à 20 groupes éthoxy dans la molécule ; de 0,2 % à 2,5 % d'un acide (alkyle en C10-C18)éthoxyméthyl carboxylique comportant de 1 à 23 groupes éthoxy dans la molécule ; et le reste consistant en un milieu aqueux ; ladite composition étant exempte d'agents de conditionnement insolubles dans l'eau de type alcanol en C12-C22 et de quantités conditionnantes d'agents de conditionnement de type silicone, et ayant de meilleurs effets de conditionnement capillaire aux concentrations d'utilisation, que les compositions identiques contenant l'un desdits agents de conditionnement comme seul agent de conditionnement capillaire.
  2. Composition de conditionnement capillaire selon la revendication 1, comprenant en outre un agent de conditionnement capillaire choisi parmi le groupe consistant :
    (a) en 0,05 % à 1,0 % d'un sel de mono-(alkyle en C8-C22)tri-(alkyle en C1-C3)ammonium quaternaire soluble dans l'eau ;
    (b) en 0,01 % à 1,5 % d'un agent de conditionnement de type polymère cationique soluble dans l'eau ;
    (c) en 0,25 % à 5,0 % d'un agent de conditionnement non ionique de type alcanol en C10-C18 éthoxylé ayant un indice d'équilibre hydrophile-lipophile (HLB) de 6,0 à 12 ; et
    (d) en les mélanges des ingrédients ci-dessus.
  3. Composition de conditionnement capillaire selon la revendication 2, dans laquelle ledit agent de conditionnement ajouté est un mélange des ingrédients (a) et (b).
  4. Composition de conditionnement capillaire selon la revendication 2, dans laquelle ledit agent de conditionnement ajouté est un mélange des ingrédients (a), (b) et (c).
  5. Composition de conditionnement capillaire selon la revendication 2, comprenant en outre une quantité non conditionnante de 0,05 % à 1,5 % d'un copolyol de diméthicone en tant qu'agent de brillance.
  6. Composition de conditionnement capillaire selon la revendication 1, dans laquelle ledit épaississant cellulosique non ionique soluble dans l'eau est choisi parmi le groupe consistant en l'hydroxyéthylcellulose, la méthylcellulose, l'éthylcellulose et l'hydroxypropylméthylcellulose.
  7. Composition de conditionnement capillaire selon la revendication 1, dans laquelle ledit solvant dipolaire est choisi parmi le groupe consistant en le propylène glycol, le glycérol, le dipropylène glycol, le butylène glycol, l'acétate de lanoline et les dérivés de lanoline soluble dans l'eau.
  8. Composition de conditionnement capillaire selon la revendication 1, dans laquelle ledit sel de (monoalkyle supérieur)monométhyl ammonium quaternaire éthoxylé comporte de 16 à 22 atomes de carbone dans le groupe alkyle.
  9. Composition de conditionnement capillaire selon la revendication 1, dans laquelle ledit acide méthylcarboxylique comporte de 2 à 10 groupes éthénoxy dans la molécule.
  10. Composition de conditionnement capillaire selon la revendication 1, dans laquelle ledit polymère non ionique est présent selon une quantité de 1 % à 1,4 % en poids, ledit solvant est présent selon une quantité de 0,8 % à 1,6 % en poids, ledit sel d'ammonium quaternaire éthoxylé est présent selon une quantité de 0,3 % à 2,2 % en poids, ledit acide alkyl éthoxy méthyl carboxylique est présent selon une quantité de 0,3 % à 1,8 % en poids et ledit milieu aqueux est présent selon une quantité de 87,9 % à 97,6 % en poids.
  11. Composition de conditionnement capillaire selon la revendication 6, comprenant en outre, un agent de conditionnement capillaire choisi parmi le groupe consistant :
    (a) en 0,05 % à 1,0 % en poids d'un sel de mono(alkyle en C8-C22)tri-(alkyle en C1-C3)ammonium quaternaire soluble dans l'eau ;
    (b) de 0,01 % à 1,5 % en poids d'un agent de conditionnement de type polymère cationique soluble dans l'eau ;
    (c) de 0,25 % à 5,0 % en poids d'un agent de conditionnement non ionique de type alcanol en C10-C18 éthoxylé ayant un indice HLB de 6,0 à 12,0 ; et
    (d) en les mélanges des ingrédients ci-dessus.
  12. Composition de conditionnement capillaire selon la revendication 11, dans laquelle ledit agent de conditionnement ajouté est un mélange des ingrédients (a) et (b).
  13. Composition de conditionnement capillaire selon la revendication 11, dans laquelle ledit agent de conditionnement ajouté est un mélange des ingrédients (a), (b) et (c).
  14. Composition de conditionnement capillaire selon la revendication 11, comprenant en outre une quantité non conditionnante de 0,05 % à 1,5 % d'un copolyol de diméthicone en tant qu'agent de brillance.
  15. Composition de conditionnement capillaire monophasique selon la revendication 1, dans laquelle l'épaississant consiste en 1 % à 1,4 % d'un épaississant de type hydroxyéthylcellulose ; le solvant dipolaire consiste en 0,8 à 1,6 % d'un solvant de type propylène glycol ; l'agent de conditionnement soluble dans l'eau de type sel de monométhyl ammonium quaternaire à substituant éthoxy, consiste en 0,3 à 2,2 % d'un sel de mono-(alkyle en C14-C18)méthyl ammonium quaternaire éthoxylé contenant de 10 à 20 groupes éthénoxy dans la molécule ; l'acide alkyl éthénoxy méthyl carboxylique consiste en 0,3 % à 1,8 % d'un acide (alkyle en C10-C14)-éthénoxy méthyl carboxylique comportant de 2 à 10 groupes éthoxy dans la molécule ; et laquelle composition comprend également de 0,05 % à 0,5 % d'un sel de (alkyle en C14-C18)triméthyl ammonium quaternaire ; de 0,03 % à 0,6 % d'un agent de conditionnement de type polymère cationique choisi parmi le groupe consistant en le Polyquatemium 6, le Polyquatemium 7, le Polyquaternium 10, le Polyquatemium 22 et leurs mélanges ; en 0,5 % à 3,0 % d'un agent de conditionnement non ionique de type alcanol en C10-C14 éthoxylé ayant un indice HLB de 6 à 12 ; et de 87,9 % à 97,0 % d'un milieu aqueux contenant principalement de l'eau.
  16. Composition de conditionnement capillaire selon la revendication 15, comprenant en outre une quantité non conditionnante de 0,075 % à 1,0 % en poids d'un copolyol de diméthicone comme agent de brillance.
  17. Composition de conditionnement capillaire selon la revendication 15, dans laquelle ladite hydroxyéthylcellulose est présente selon une quantité de 1,1 % à 1,3 % ; ledit propylène glycol est présent selon une quantité de 0,9 % à 1,1 % ; ledit sel d'ammonium quaternaire éthoxylé est présent selon une quantité de 0,5 % à 1,5 % ; ledit acide carboxylique éthoxylé est présent selon une quantité de 0,5 % à 1,2 % ; ledit sel de (alkyle en C14-C18)triméthyl ammonium quaternaire est présent selon une quantité de 0,06 % à 0,3 % ; ledit polymère cationique consiste en un mélange de Polyquaternium 6 et de Polyquaternium 7 présent selon une quantité de 0,05 % à 0,4 % ; ledit agent de conditionnement non ionique est un alcool laurylique éthoxylé présent selon une quantité de 0,75 % à 2,0 % ; ledit milieu aqueux est présent selon une quantité de 91,7 % à 96,0 % ; et ladite composition comprend en outre d'environ 0,1 % à 0,5 % en poids de copolyol de diméthicone.
  18. Procédé de conditionnement des cheveux, comprenant les étapes consistant à mettre en contact les cheveux avec la composition de la revendication 1, à répartir ladite composition à travers les cheveux et à peigner les cheveux traités.
EP97945359A 1996-10-02 1997-10-01 Composition capillaire revitalisante perfectionnee Expired - Lifetime EP0941045B1 (fr)

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US08/720,658 US5759527A (en) 1996-10-02 1996-10-02 Hair conditioning composition
PCT/US1997/017536 WO1998014165A1 (fr) 1996-10-02 1997-10-01 Composition capillaire revitalisante perfectionnee

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EP2658520B1 (fr) 2010-12-30 2023-04-05 Kao Germany GmbH Composition de conditionnement sans rinçage pour cheveux

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ATE233078T1 (de) 2003-03-15
EP0941045A1 (fr) 1999-09-15
AU727420B2 (en) 2000-12-14
CN1232383A (zh) 1999-10-20
DE69719357D1 (de) 2003-04-03
CO4970844A1 (es) 2000-11-07
AU4658297A (en) 1998-04-24
CN1121206C (zh) 2003-09-17
WO1998014165A1 (fr) 1998-04-09
US5759527A (en) 1998-06-02

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