Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
  • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
  • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
  • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
  • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine

Definitions

• the present invention relates to the use for the temporary coloring of animal hair or animal hair of a composition
• a composition comprising at least one aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer particles comprising at least one acid function, in which at least one non-pigment pigment is dispersed -mélanique.
• the invention proposes to implement a coloring process of the last type leading to a coloring which can be eliminated with the first shampoo. It can also be likened to a "makeup" process.
• hair we mean the hair systems made up of human hair, mustache or beard hair.
• melanin pigments can be combined with a film-forming latex in order to obtain better resistance to brushing and higher gloss.
• the Applicant has surprisingly discovered a so-called temporary coloring process, similar to the first shampoo, using a composition comprising an aqueous dispersion of particles of a film-forming polymer comprising at least one acid function and a pigment dispersed in said dispersion which does not result no oxidative polymerization of an indole compound
• a so-called temporary coloring process similar to the first shampoo, using a composition comprising an aqueous dispersion of particles of a film-forming polymer comprising at least one acid function and a pigment dispersed in said dispersion which does not result no oxidative polymerization of an indole compound
• Such a process makes it possible to substantially improve the properties of remanence and dyeing power
• the range of colorings obtained by the process of the invention is significantly wider than that proposed by the process using melanin pigments
• the colorings obtained by the dyeing process of the invention have a high resistance to friction on dry or damp hair with the fingers or hands of the user or a fabric
• Film-forming polymers comprising at least one acid function, free or at least partially neutralized comprising at least one acid function of the sulfonic, phosphoric or phosphonic carboxylic type
• Their average molecular weight preferably measured by ste ⁇ que exclusion chromatography varies, preferably from 500 to 5,000,000
• the carboxylic acid group can be provided by at least one mono or dicarboxylic acid monomer, with ethylenic unsaturation such as those corresponding to the formula
• A denotes a methylene group, optionally linked to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the neighboring methylene group when n is greater than 1 via a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulfur or alternatively an aromatic nucleus such as phenyl or benzyl
• R denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl or benzyl group
• R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl or carboxyl group
• R 3 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group, a -CH 2 - COOH group, phenyl or benzyl
• polymers in accordance with the invention film-forming comprising carboxylic acid groups are preferably chosen from the group constituted by
• acrylic tetrapolymers such as methyl methacrylate / butyl acrylate / hydroxyethyl methacrylate tetrapolymer / methacrylic acid sold by the company ROHM and HAAS under the name ACUDYNE 255 - copolymers of acrylic acid and C 4 -C 4 alkyl methacrylate and terpolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, acrylic acid and alkyl methacrylate
• lauryl such as that sold by the company ISP under the name ACRYLIDONE M and the copolymer of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate sold under the name of LUVIMER MAEX by the company
• copolymers of (meth) acrylic acid and esters or amides of (meth) acrylic acid comprising in addition vinyl esters, linear, branched or cyclic (cycloaliphatic, aromatic, substituted or not) such as vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, branched acid vinyl esters such as vinyl versatate, vinyl esters of substituted or unsubstituted benzoic acid, these copolymers may also contain, in addition, groups resulting from the copolymerization with styrene, ⁇ -methylstyrene or a substituted styrene;
• These copolymers may also contain olefinic groups resulting from the copolymerization with styrene, ⁇ -methylstyrene, a substituted styrene and optionally monoethylenic monomers such as ethylene.
• - crotonic acid copolymers comprising in their chain vinyl acetate or propionate units and optionally other monomers such as allyl or methallyl esters, vinyl ethers or vinyl esters of a linear or branched long saturated carboxylic acid hydrocarbon chain such as those containing at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers possibly being grafted and crosslinked or else a vinyl, allylic or methallylic ester of an ⁇ - or ⁇ -cyclic carboxylic acid
• These copolymers can additionally contain olefinic groups resulting from copolyme ⁇ sation with styrene, ⁇ -methylstyrene, a substituted styrene and optionally monoethylenic monomers such as ethyiene
• R, R ', R " identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, - m, n and t are 1 or 2,
• R represents an alkyl radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated having from 2 to 21 carbon atoms,
• - Z represents a divalent radical taken from the group constituted by -CH 2 -, -CH 2 -0- CH 2 - and -CH 2 -0- (CH 2 ) 2 -, - Cyc represents a radical chosen from
• R 2 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, and p is 1 or 2, (m) a radical of formula
• R 3 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl, tert-butyl, ethoxy, butoxy or dodecyloxy radical and R 4 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical of 1 to 4 carbon atoms or an alkoxy radical of 1 has 4 carbon atoms, and (iv) a radical of formula
• v represents from 10 to 91% and preferably from 36 to 84% by weight
• w represents from 3 to 20% and preferably from 6 to 12% by weight
• x represents from 4 to 60% and preferably from 6 to 40% by weight
• y represents from 0 to 40% and preferably from 4 to 30% by weight v + w + x + y being equal to 100%
• vinyl acetate terpolymer vinyl tert-butylbenzoate, crotonic acid with a weight composition of 65%, 25%,
• Polymers also falling into this class are the copolymers of maleic, citraconic, itaconic anhydrides and an allylic or methallylic ester optionally comprising an acrylamide, methacrylamide, an ⁇ -olefin group, acrylic or methacrylic esters, acrylic or methacrylic acids or vinyipyrrolidone in their chain, the anhydride functions are monoeste ⁇ fiees ou monoamidifiees
• these polymers are for example described in French patents 2 350 384 and 2 357 241 of the applicant
• the film-forming polymers in accordance with the invention bearing sulphonic acid groups and / or sulphonates can be chosen from those originating from vmylsulphonic acid, styrenesulphonic acid, 2-sulphoethyl methacrylate from acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulphonic acid
• copolymers can be obtained by polymerization of at least one sulfonic acid group or a sulfonate group and of at least one monomer chosen from the group constituted by
• the particularly preferred polymers are chosen from acrylic acid copolymers such as the acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butyl acrylamide terpolymer sold under the name "ULTRAHOLD STRONG" by the company BASF, the copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as vinyl acetate / tert-butyl vinyl be ⁇ zoate / crotonic acid terpolymers and crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name "RESIN 28-29-30" by the company NATIONAL STARCH , polymers derived from itaconic fumaric acids or maleic anhydrides with vinyl esters of vinyl ethers of vinyl halides of phenyl-vinyl derivatives of acrylic acid and its esters such as the methyl vinyl ester / mono ester maleic anhydride copolymer sold under the name "GANTREZ ES 42
• aqueous dispersions of the polymers mentioned may be latex or pseudolatex If they are in the form of latex, preferably at least partially neutralized, they result directly from the synthesis of the polymer by a well known technique of emulsion polymerization The degree of neutralization is such that the polymer remains in the form of latex and does not dissolve in water
• polymers can also be in pseudo-latex form
• the polymer is already produced and it is then dispersed in water
• the dispersion in water is self-stabilized by at least partial neutralization of the acid groups carried by the polymer
• the neutralization rate of acid-forming polymers must therefore be perfectly determined so that they remain insoluble in water while being soluble in the organic solvent (s) that may be present.
• this neutralization rate is generally between 30 and 80% and preferably between 40 and 70% if the polymer has less than 2 meq / g of acid functions and between 10 and 50% preferably between 10 and 40% if the polymer has more than 2 meq / g acid functions
• the neutralization of the acid functions is reacted using a non-volatile mono-basic agent chosen for example from a mineral base such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide or from an amino alcohol taken from the group constituted by amino 2-methyl-2 propanol-1 (AMP), t ⁇ ethanolamine, trnsopropanolamine (TIPA), monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, tri [(hydroxy-2) propyl-1] amine, amine-2-methyl-2 propaned ⁇ ol-1 3 (AMPD) and amino-2 hydroxymethyl-2 propanediol-
• a non-volatile mono-basic agent chosen for example from a mineral base such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide or from an amino alcohol taken from the group constituted by amino 2-methyl-2 propanol-1 (AMP), t ⁇ ethanolamine, trnsopropanolamine (TIPA), monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, tri [(hydroxy-2) propyl-1] amine, amine-2-methyl-2 propaned ⁇ ol-1 3
• the pseudo-latex of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention is obtained according to known methods for the preparation of pseudo-latex, subject however to certain features which will be mentioned below.
• the general process for the preparation of pseudo-latex consists in dissolving a water-insoluble polymer in an organic solvent, soluble or partially soluble in water, in dispersing with stirring the solution thus obtained in water and then proceeding elimination of the organic solvent by evaporation under vacuum, which leads to a suspension consisting of particles of the polymer, the size of which is generally less than ⁇ m
• the film-forming polymers with acid functions as defined above cannot be used as such in the preparation of pseudo-latexes but must be neutralized at a neutralization rate of less than 100% in order to avoid their total solubilization in water.
• the neutralization of the acid functions of the film-forming polymer is carried out in situ in the solution of the polymer in the organic solvent by addition of the determined quantity of the mono-basic compound non-volatile
• the organic solvent used must be a volatile solvent or a mixture of such solvents having a boiling point lower than that of water and be miscible or partially miscible with water
• the organic solvent as defined above is preferably chosen from acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, tetrahydrofuran, methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, isopropanol and ethanol
• an emulsion is then prepared by pouring, with stirring, to the organic solution obtained, an appropriate quantity of water optionally containing an anti-foaming agent. whose role will be to facilitate the subsequent evaporation of the organic phase.
• the neutralization of the acid functions of the polymer in solution in the organic solvent can be carried out during the formation of the emulsion by pouring an aqueous solution containing the required amount of the non-basic mono-basic compound. volatile.
• the stirring is preferably carried out using a shearing disperser of the MORITZ or ULTRA-TURRAX or RAINERI type equipped with deflocculating blades.
• the emulsion thus obtained is particularly stable without the need to use a surfactant insofar as the acid groups of the polymer are placed at the interface with water and protect the droplets from coalescence by repulsion.
• the organic solvent is then evaporated under reduced pressure until it is completely eliminated, the evaporation preferably being carried out under slight heating .
• a pseudo-latex is thus obtained, that is to say an aqueous dispersion of particles of the film-forming polymer, which is free from any surfactant or other hydrophilic stabilizer while being very stable, which is particularly advantageous in hair cosmetics.
• the average particle size of the film-forming polymer is preferably less than
• the polydispersity in particle size measured in quasi-elastic light scattering is generally between 0.1 and 0.40 and preferably less than 0.35
• the film-forming polymers with acid groups in accordance with the invention are present in the compositions in concentrations preferably ranging from
• the pigments in accordance with the invention are chosen from all organic or inorganic pigments which do not result from the oxidative polymerization of indole compounds, cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable
• They can be in the form of powder or pigment paste
• mineral pigments there may be mentioned by way of example titanium dioxide (rutile or anastase) optionally surface-treated and codified in the Color Index under the reference CI77891, black yellow red and brown iron oxides codified under the references CI77499, 77492, 77491, manganese violet (CI77742), ultramarine blue (CI77007), chromium oxide hydrate (CI77289), ferric blue (CI77510)
• the pigment YELLOW 3 sold in particular under the trade name "JAUNE COVANOR W 1603" by the company WACKHERR (Cl 17710), the "D & C RED No. 19" ( Cl 45170), “D & C RED n ° 9 (Cl 15585),” D & C RED n ° 21 "(Cl 45380),” D & C ORANGE n ° 4 "(Cl 15510),” D & C ORANGE ⁇ ° 5 "(Cl 45370), the” D & C RED n Q 27 "(CI45410), the" D & C REDn 0 13 ⁇ CI 15630), the "D & C RED n ° 7" (Cl 15850-1), the “D & C RED n ° 6 (Cl 15850-2), the” D & C YELLOW n ° 5 "(Cl 19140), the” D & C RED
• pearlescent pigments which may in particular be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium oxide, bismuth oxide; colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the precipitated type, as well as those based on oxychloride of bismuth
• VIOLET COSMENYL RL Pigment VIOLET 23 (Cl 51319)
• the pigments are present in concentrations preferably ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight and more particularly from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition
• the pH of the compositions in accordance with the invention preferably ranges from 6 to 8 and preferably from 6 to 7.5.
• At least one plasticizer is added to said dispersion.
• the plasticizer (s) is added to the dispersion of polymer particles already formed.
• the plasticizer (s) may be added to the dispersion once the pseudo-latex has formed or during the dispersion of the polymer
• plasticizers used in accordance with the present invention may be hydrophilic or hydrophobic (or slightly hydrophilic) or mixtures consisting of a hydrophilic plasticizer and a hydrophobic plasticizer
• compositions of the invention are generally present in the compositions of the invention in concentrations ranging from 0 1 to 80% by weight and preferably 5 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the film-forming polymer with acid groups
• glycol ethers and in particular - the Carbitols from the company UNION CARBIDE, namely Carbitol or diethylene glycol ethylether methyl Carbitol or diethylene glycol methylether butyl Carbitol or diethylene glycol butylether
• Dowanols from the company DOW CHEMICAL and in particular Dowanol PM or propylene glycol methylether Dowanol DPM or dipropylene glycol methylether Dowanol TPM or t ⁇ popylene glycol methylether or also Dowanol DM or diethylene glycol methylether
• hydrophilic plasticizers mention may also be made of
• DOW under the name of "DOWANOL DPMA”.
• propylene glycol ethers such as
• ethers of propylene glycol and ethylene glycol such as
• esters of diacids such as
• glycerol esters such as glycerol diacetate (diacetin) and glycerol t ⁇ acetate (t ⁇ acetin)
• composition according to the invention consists of a composition containing a plasticizer system consisting of a mixture of at least two plasticizers with different evaporation rates; (1) one, “permanent”, being of high boiling point (preferably higher than 200 ° C), (2) the other, “temporary”, being more volatile than (1) and having to evaporate after water
• the first plasticizing agent (1) ensures permanent plasticization of the polymer while the second plasticizing agent (2) helps to coalesce the particles and accelerate filming (coalescing agent)
• the proportion of plasticizer (1) "permanent" depends on the material of the polymer used in particular on the glass transition of the polymer used and on the glass transition of the plasticizer The proportion is such that the glass transition - from the plasticized polymer to the permanent plasticizer is between 10 ° C and 40 ° C and preferably between 15 ° C and 30 "C, which corresponds most of the time, depending on the polymer chosen, to an amount ranging from 2 g / 100 g of polymer to 30 g / 100 g of polymer
• the proportion of "temporary" plasticizer (2) called a coalescing agent which is sometimes only used to promote the filming of the latex or pseudolatex can vary from 2 g / 100 g of polymer to 15 g / 100 g of polymer
• compositions used for the temporary coloring of the hair or of animal hair may be in various forms such as more or less thickened liquids, creams, gels
• compositions according to the invention intended to be used for temporary coloring may also contain various adjuvants usually used in hair compositions.
• adjuvants usually used in hair compositions.
• Another subject of the invention is a process for the temporary coloring of animal hair or animal hair, characterized in that a composition as defined above is applied to animal hair or animal hair in an effective amount
• a composition as defined above is applied to animal hair or animal hair in an effective amount
• the coloring composition is applied to dry hair, at a rate of 4 g per 3 g of hair. It is left to dry at room temperature.
• a red color is obtained.
• the touch is soft and non-sticky. There is no disgorging on dry or damp hair.
• a blue colation is obtained.
• the touch is non-sticky and disgorging on dry or wet hair is non-existent.
• the coloring composition is applied to dry hair, at a rate of 3 g per 1.5 g of hair. It is left to dry at room temperature. A black color is obtained.
• Example 2 The composition is applied under the same conditions of Example 1. A tacky feel and a significant disgorgement are observed on dry and on damp hair, unlike Example 2.
• the cationic polymer in the form of pseudo-latex has the theoretical structure - ( ⁇ — Z— OC— NhR - WC-), - ( ⁇ - (CH, -). - ⁇ -CW -R -MlC), - (O - (CH), - N - ⁇ OR, - O -OM-IRISIH C -
• Z is a t ⁇ valent radical
• Q is a polysiloxane segment
• the polycondensate corresponds to the reaction between - 1 mole of X 22176 DX sold by SHIN ETSU (olysomer polysiloxane of molecular weight 4,000 and of index OH 26 4) and of formula
• MDI 4,4'-d ⁇ phenylmethane dusocyanate
• thermometer of a refrigerant with a vacuum inlet and a nitrogen bubbling inlet and surmounted by an introduction bulb introduced under stream of nitrogen a solution of 100 g of oligomer X 22176 DX in 120 g of tetrahydrofuran (hereinafter called THF)
• THF tetrahydrofuran
• the medium is brought to ambient temperature
• the synthesis solution is pu ⁇ fiee by precipitation in an ethanol / water mixture (70/30 by weight)
• the precipitate is recovered and dried
• the emulsion obtained is then concentrated on a rotary evaporator to completely eliminate the synthetic organic solvent (THF) and to concentrate in water.
• THF synthetic organic solvent
• a final dry extract pseudo-latex is thus obtained 27% and having the following characteristics - average particle size 100 nm - polydispersity in size 0.14
• Example 3 The increase in dye obtained on natural or permanent hair with this formulation A is compared with that obtained with Example 3 according to the invention.
• the compositions A and 3 are applied under the same conditions, to 90% white natural hair and to permanent white hair at 90% at a rate of 3 g per 1.5 g of hair Then allowed to dry at room temperature
• Example 3 containing a non-melanin pigment leads to more powerful colorations than those obtained with the counter-type formulation B containing a melanin pigment
• compositions B and the formulation of Example 3 are applied under the same conditions, to 90% white natural hair and to 90% white permanent hair at the rate of 3 g per 1.5 g of hair. Leave to dry. at room temperature
• the relative variation in the degradation of the coloration on dyed natural hair or on dyed permanent hair is determined in percentages by the ratio ⁇ E 2 / ⁇ E. The greater this variation, the lower the water retention of the dye.
• Example 3 containing a non-melamine pigment exhibits better water retention than the formulation B against type containing a melanin pigment

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• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
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• General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Public Health (AREA)
• Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
• Birds (AREA)
• Epidemiology (AREA)
• Cosmetics (AREA)
• Compositions Of Macromolecular Compounds (AREA)

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• 1995
  • 1995-11-23 FR FR9513940A patent/FR2741530B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 1996
  • 1996-11-07 CA CA002211797A patent/CA2211797A1/fr not_active Abandoned
  • 1996-11-07 JP JP09519430A patent/JP3040176B2/ja not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 1996-11-07 WO PCT/FR1996/001754 patent/WO1997018795A1/fr not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 1996-11-07 US US08/860,706 patent/US6106577A/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 1996-11-07 EP EP96938271A patent/EP0808150A1/fr not_active Withdrawn

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