EP0569891A1 - Fil et procédé pour la production d'un fil - Google Patents
Fil et procédé pour la production d'un fil Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP0569891A1 EP0569891A1 EP93107497A EP93107497A EP0569891A1 EP 0569891 A1 EP0569891 A1 EP 0569891A1 EP 93107497 A EP93107497 A EP 93107497A EP 93107497 A EP93107497 A EP 93107497A EP 0569891 A1 EP0569891 A1 EP 0569891A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- yarn
- core
- dtex
- multifilament yarn
- multifilament
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/44—Yarns or threads characterised by the purpose for which they are designed
- D02G3/46—Sewing-cottons or the like
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a core yarn with the features of the preamble of claim 1 and a method for producing such a core yarn with the features of the preamble of claim 16.
- EP B1 0 367 938 describes a two-component yarn which has at least one multifilament first yarn component, which is arranged in the interior of the yarn and which is referred to as the core material, and at least one second multifilament effect material enveloping the core material.
- the two aforementioned multifilament yarns are intermingled with one another in such a way that the necessary thread closure is achieved by intertwining the two yarn materials results.
- such a filament yarn is used as the first yarn material, the specific strength of which is already very high as a starting material compared to a standard textile yarn.
- EP B 0367 938 thus teaches that a high-strength multifilament yarn is already used as the starting material.
- fiber yarns or threads are also known.
- a yarn with the features of the preamble of claim 1 is described in DE-PS 24 36 997.
- the known yarn has a multifilament core material, which is wound with a second yarn component to form a core yarn.
- the core material of the well-known core yarn consists of stretched and fixed multifilament fibers, the high-strength multifilament yarns previously described for the intermingled yarn usually also being used for this. These high-strength multifilament yarns are considerably more expensive than standard textile fibers.
- the present invention has for its object to provide a core yarn of the type specified, which has an extremely high resistance to mechanical stresses at a particularly low manufacturing price.
- the yarn according to the invention which is also used in particular as a sewing thread, has at least one multifilament yarn component which forms a core.
- the multifilament yarn component forming the core is wound with at least one second yarn component to form the core yarn.
- the core of the core yarn forming at least one multifilament yarn component is a conventional textile standard multifilament yarn, the spun core yarn having a specific strength between 32 cN / tex and 55 cN / tex, preferably between 37 cN / tex and 48 cN / tex.
- the core yarn according to the invention has a number of advantages. It was surprisingly found that a core yarn of this type has the previously stated high strengths between 32 cN / tex and 55 cN / tex, in particular between 37 cN / tex and 48 cN / tex, although a core material is used to produce this yarn. which, in contrast to the prior art described above, is not a high-strength multifilament yarn but a common textile standard multifilament yarn. This in turn leads to the core yarn according to the invention being particularly inexpensive to produce.
- the core thread according to the invention is used as a sewing thread, such a sewing thread is characterized in that it performs the usual sewing operations, for example multidirectional sewing or buttonhole sewing, even at extremely high sewing speeds of up to 7,000 stitches per minute without one Damage to the core yarn survives.
- the core yarn according to the invention does not cause any sewing disturbances in the area of the ready-to-wear.
- a first embodiment of the core yarn according to the invention has a multifilament yarn component forming the core, which has an intrinsic viscosity between 0.5 dl / g and 0.75 dl / g, in particular an intrinsic viscosity between 0.55 dl / g and 0, 63 dl / g.
- This is a multifilament polyester yarn component.
- the values of the intrinsic viscosity mentioned above reflect the molecular structure (molecular weight, chemical composition) of the polyester multifilament yarn used, the degree of condensation of the polymers also correspondingly increasing with increasing viscosity.
- the values given above refer to polymer solutions in dichloroacetic acid at 25 ° C.
- this single-filament titer varies between 0.6 dtex and 6 dtex, preferably between 1.5 dtex and 4 dtex.
- the core yarn according to the invention in particular has a multifilament yarn (multifilament yarn component) as a core, the number of filaments of which varies between 16 and 300, preferably between 24 and 96.
- any yarn is suitable for this is that the soul adequately covers the outside.
- a fiber yarn made of polyamide 6, polyamide 6.6, cotton and / or in particular polyester fibers is preferably used as the second yarn component.
- Embodiments of the core yarn according to the invention have a particularly high strength in which the second yarn component comprises at least one fiber yarn, the specific strength of which varies between 40 cN / tex and 70 cN / tex.
- the staple length of the individual fibers of the fiber yarn varies between 15 mm and 120 mm, in particular between 20 mm and 60 mm.
- a particularly suitable embodiment of the yarn according to the invention provides that the yarn comprises at least two, preferably two to four core yarns twisted together, each individual core yarn having the structure described above or below.
- the correspondingly twisted yarn preferably has a twist coefficient ⁇ between 120 and 180, the twist coefficient ⁇ being defined as follows:
- Such a twisted yarn which, as already described above, comprises at least two, preferably two to four, twisted core yarns, can also be used particularly well as a sewing thread, since such a sewing thread, for example, multidirectional sewing or sewing buttonholes with high stitch densities (up to 7,000 stitches per minute) without yarn break.
- the yarns according to the invention described above have a total titer which is between 100 dtex and 1,400 dtex, preferably between 100 dtex and 600 dtex.
- the mass ratio of core to second yarn component varies in the yarn according to the invention from 70% (mass of core) to 30% (mass of the second yarn component) to 30% (mass of core) to 70% (mass of the second yarn component).
- the yarn according to the invention have the same fiber substrate mentioned above both as core and as a second yarn component.
- the invention Yarn has different fiber substrates in the soul and as a second yarn component.
- the present invention is also based on the object of providing a production method with which the yarn according to the invention described above can be spun particularly economically.
- the process according to the invention for producing the yarns described above provides that at least one multifilament yarn component serving as a core is spun with a second yarn component to form the core yarns.
- a pre-oriented multifilament yarn (POY yarn) is selected for the soul-forming at least one multifilament yarn component, the molecular weight of the at least one pre-oriented multifilament yarn (POY yarn) corresponding to a textile standard multifilament yarn.
- This pre-oriented multifilament yarn (POY yarn) is drawn in such a way that its strength varies between 60 cN / tex and 90 cN / tex, in particular between 71 cN / tex and 90 cN / tex.
- the method according to the invention has a number of advantages. It should first be noted that the method according to the invention, using relatively inexpensive raw materials, leads to a high-quality yarn, in particular sewing thread, which is distinguished by the fact that it is used even under extreme sewing loads does not tear.
- a thread or sewing thread produced in this way has low residual shrinkage values, which can be found, for example, in cooking shrinkage values (water, about 98 ° C.) in the order of 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, and in hot air shrinkage values (160 ° C.) on the order of about 2%, preferably less than 1%.
- cooking shrinkage values water, about 98 ° C.
- hot air shrinkage values 160 ° C.
- a polyester multifilament yarn is preferably selected for this, the intrinsic viscosity of which is between 0.5 dl / g and 0.75 dl / g, preferably between 0.55 dl / g and 0.63 dl / g.
- the polyester POY yarn described above is such a yarn whose chemical structure and in particular its molecular weight corresponds to a conventional textile standard multifilament yarn.
- the aforementioned intrinsic viscosities represent values which are measured in corresponding solutions of the polymer in dichloroacetic acid at 25 ° C.
- each pre-oriented multifilament yarn which is preferably polyester POY yarn
- each pre-oriented multifilament yarn is drawn in such a way that this multifilament yarn is stretched over feeds a delivery godet wrapped in the yarn at a first speed to a main stretching zone.
- the multifilament yarn is then withdrawn from the main drawing zone at a second speed via a take-off godet wrapped in the pre-oriented multifilament yarn, the second speed being 70% to 180%, preferably 100% to 160%, greater than the first speed.
- the take-off godet is heated to a temperature between 160 ° C. and 240 ° C.
- a degree of stretching of 1: 1.7 to 1: 2.8, preferably a degree of stretching of, is thus in the main stretching zone, which is formed exclusively from the delivery godet and the withdrawal godet 1: 2.0 to 1: 2.6.
- these degrees of stretching are very high, surprisingly no filament breaks occur during such stretching, so that this stretching process is particularly insusceptible to faults.
- the tensile strengths of a multifilament yarn stretched in this way are extremely high, ie, depending on the pre-oriented multifilament yarn (POY yarn) used, they are in the range between 60 cN / tex and 90 cN / tex, in particular between 71 cN / tex and 90 cN / tex .
- a further development of the previously described embodiment variant of the method according to the invention provides that the delivery godet is also heated to a temperature between 60 ° C. and 160 ° C., preferably to a temperature between 80 ° C. and 140 ° C. heats up.
- heating is carried out in the main stretching zone, i.e. between the delivery godet and the take-off godet, the pre-oriented multifilament yarn to a temperature between 80 ° C and 180 ° C.
- This heating of the multifilament yarn in the main stretching zone is preferably carried out in such a way that a hot plate, an IR radiator and / or a laser are used for this purpose.
- this residence time varies in particular between 0.01 s and 1 s.
- the delivery godet and the take-off godet are looped with the pre-oriented multifilament yarn, as already described above. It has been shown here that particularly high strengths and particularly low shrinkage values of the stretched multifilament yarn result when the delivery godet and / or the take-off godet are looped 5 to 40 times, preferably 10 to 20 times, with the pre-oriented multifilament yarn.
- These wrapping values refer to Godets, the diameter of which vary between approximately 40 mm and 250 mm, preferably 80 mm and 120 mm.
- a pre-stretching zone is arranged in front of the main stretching zone, as seen in the transport direction of the pre-oriented multifilament yarn (POY yarn).
- POY yarn which is preferably a polyester POY yarn, is first partially drawn in the pre-drawing zone and then finally drawn in the main drawing zone.
- the pre-oriented multifilament yarn in the pre-stretching zone between 0.5% and 10%, preferably between 1% and 4%.
- the pre-oriented multifilament yarn is thus lengthened in the pre-stretching zone between 0.5% and 10%, preferably between 1% and 4%.
- the aforementioned high strengths and low shrinkage values can be achieved particularly economically and reproducibly if one selects take-off speeds that are greater than 300 m / min and preferably between 600 m / min and 1,200 m / min.
- a relaxation zone is arranged behind the main drawing zone, in which the drawn multifilament yarn is heated to a temperature between 80 ° C and 240 ° C, preferably to a temperature between 140 ° C and 200 ° C, is heated. It has been shown here that such a relaxation zone further reduces the shrinkage values, in particular the cooking shrinkage value (water 98 ° C.) and the hot air shrinkage value (160 ° C.) of the drawn multifilament yarn. This is particularly true when the drawn multifilament yarn is introduced into the relaxation zone with lead, which is preferably between 0.5% and 10% and in particular between 1% and 3%.
- the residence time of the multifilament yarn in the relaxation zone then varies depending on the respective transport speed of the yarn through the relaxation zone and is preferably 0.01 s to 1 s.
- POY yarns used in the method according to the invention depends on the later use of the drawn yarn. POY multifilament yarns are preferably selected here whose single filament titer varies between 1 dtex and 12 dtex, preferably between 3 dtex and 8 dtex.
- the titer of the pre-oriented multifilament yarn it should be noted that this varies between 40 dtex and 2,000 dtex, preferably between 80 dtex and 1,200 dtex.
- the number of filaments of the pre-oriented multifilament yarn used is between 16 and 300, preferably between 24 and 96.
- a further, particularly suitable embodiment of the processes described above provides that at least two, preferably two to four, of the core yarns produced by the processes described above are twisted together.
- the resulting thread has excellent properties as a sewing thread, as has already been described for the thread.
- a variant of the previously described embodiment of the method according to the invention provides that each core yarn is first individually twisted and then the core yarns present as pre-twine are twisted.
- the twist coefficient ⁇ is between 90 and 140, the twist coefficient ⁇ being defined above for the yarn.
- the subsequent twist of the twist is preferably carried out at a twist factor ⁇ between 120 and 180.
- One embodiment of the core yarn according to the invention has particularly good results with regard to sewing behavior, the hairiness (sh) of between 2.5 and 7.5, in particular varies between 4 and 7. These hairiness values relate to measurement results as determined by the known method with a Uster yarn uniformity measuring device, type UT3.
- the process according to the invention preferably uses a multifilament polyester core and a polyester spinning component as the starting material (second yarn component), so that accordingly a core yarn results which consists entirely of polyester.
- Polyester in the sense of the present application is understood to mean polyethylene terephthalate.
- a polyester POY yarn was pre-stretched between a delivery plant and a downstream delivery godet so that it was 5% elongated.
- the temperature of the delivery godet was 100 ° C.
- the pre-drawn multifilament yarn was then drawn in a main draw frame which consisted exclusively of the aforementioned delivery godet and a take-off godet at a draw ratio of 1: 2.4.
- the temperature of the take-off godet was 160 ° C.
- the polyester multifilament yarn was 20 times the supply godet and 20 times the Deduction godet wound. Both godets had a diameter of 150 mm.
- the drawing speed was 600 m / min.
- a thermal treatment (hot plate) was provided behind the take-off godet, the drawn multifilament yarn being introduced into the thermal aftertreatment with a lead of 3%.
- the temperature of the thermal aftertreatment was 180 ° C., the residence time was 0.5 s.
- the drawn polyester multifilament yarn which had a total denier of 138 dtex and a filament number of 30, was wound up.
- the stretched polyester multifilament yarn described above was spun to form a core yarn with a polyester staple fiber (single fiber titer 1.3 dtex, staple length 38 mm). After spinning, the spun core yarn had a twist coefficient ⁇ of 105.7 and a titer of Nm 49.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
DE4215212 | 1992-05-12 | ||
DE4215212A DE4215212A1 (de) | 1992-05-12 | 1992-05-12 | Coregarn sowie Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Coregarnes |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP0569891A1 true EP0569891A1 (fr) | 1993-11-18 |
EP0569891B1 EP0569891B1 (fr) | 1996-10-30 |
Family
ID=6458427
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP93107497A Expired - Lifetime EP0569891B1 (fr) | 1992-05-12 | 1993-05-08 | Fil et procédé pour la production d'un fil |
Country Status (5)
Country | Link |
---|---|
EP (1) | EP0569891B1 (fr) |
AT (1) | ATE144801T1 (fr) |
DE (2) | DE4215212A1 (fr) |
ES (1) | ES2093875T3 (fr) |
HK (1) | HK61397A (fr) |
Cited By (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
EP1036866A2 (fr) * | 1999-03-16 | 2000-09-20 | Amann & Söhne GmbH & Co. | Fil à coudre et procédé pour la production d'un tel fil à coudre |
WO2002018702A2 (fr) * | 2000-08-30 | 2002-03-07 | Warwick Mills, Inc. | Procedes permettant d'ameliorer l'aptitude a la teinture et la resistance a la perforation de textiles comprenant des fibres haute tenacite et textiles produits a l'aide de ces procedes |
US6668868B2 (en) | 2000-08-30 | 2003-12-30 | Warwick Mills, Inc | Woven fabric constructions having high cover factors and fill yarns with a weight per unit length less than the weight per unit length of warp yarns of the fabric |
EP2463418A1 (fr) * | 2010-11-29 | 2012-06-13 | Amann & Söhne GmbH & Co. KG | Fil, notamment fil à coudre ou à broder et procédé de fabrication d'un tel fil |
Families Citing this family (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
DE4324610A1 (de) * | 1992-12-18 | 1994-06-23 | Amann & Soehne | Nähgarn aus Synthese- und/oder Naturfasern |
DE19847744B4 (de) * | 1998-10-16 | 2004-04-22 | Leuze Textil Gmbh + Co | Verfahren zur Herstellung von Coregarnen und/oder Fäden aus derartigen Garnen sowie Vorrichtung zur Durchführung des Verfahrens |
DE10343847A1 (de) * | 2003-09-23 | 2005-04-21 | Falke Kg | Garn und Verfahren zum Herstellen eines Garns |
DE10343848A1 (de) * | 2003-09-23 | 2005-04-21 | Falke Kg | Core-Garn und Verfahren zum Herstellen eines Core-Garns |
Citations (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
EP0363798A2 (fr) * | 1988-10-07 | 1990-04-18 | Hoechst Aktiengesellschaft | Fil à coudre constitué de deux composants entremêlés et son procédé de fabrication |
EP0367938A2 (fr) * | 1988-09-17 | 1990-05-16 | Amann & Söhne GmbH & Co. | Procédé de fabrication d'un fil, en particulier un fil à condre, et fil ainsi obtenu |
EP0472873A1 (fr) * | 1990-08-17 | 1992-03-04 | Amann & Söhne GmbH & Co. | Un fil, en particulier un fil à coudre, et procédé pour la réalisation d'un fil |
Family Cites Families (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
DE2436997C2 (de) * | 1974-08-01 | 1982-08-12 | Ackermann-Göggingen AG, 8900 Augsburg | Faden aus Coregarn |
DE3720237A1 (de) * | 1987-06-15 | 1989-01-05 | Amann & Soehne | Verfahren zum herstellen von luftblastexturiertem naehgarn |
-
1992
- 1992-05-12 DE DE4215212A patent/DE4215212A1/de not_active Withdrawn
-
1993
- 1993-05-08 ES ES93107497T patent/ES2093875T3/es not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1993-05-08 AT AT93107497T patent/ATE144801T1/de not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1993-05-08 EP EP93107497A patent/EP0569891B1/fr not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1993-05-08 DE DE59304337T patent/DE59304337D1/de not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
1997
- 1997-05-08 HK HK61397A patent/HK61397A/xx not_active IP Right Cessation
Patent Citations (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
EP0367938A2 (fr) * | 1988-09-17 | 1990-05-16 | Amann & Söhne GmbH & Co. | Procédé de fabrication d'un fil, en particulier un fil à condre, et fil ainsi obtenu |
EP0363798A2 (fr) * | 1988-10-07 | 1990-04-18 | Hoechst Aktiengesellschaft | Fil à coudre constitué de deux composants entremêlés et son procédé de fabrication |
EP0472873A1 (fr) * | 1990-08-17 | 1992-03-04 | Amann & Söhne GmbH & Co. | Un fil, en particulier un fil à coudre, et procédé pour la réalisation d'un fil |
Non-Patent Citations (1)
Title |
---|
PATENT ABSTRACTS OF JAPAN, vol. 010, no. 185 (C_357) 27. Juni 1986; & JP-A-61 034 218 (TEIJIN) 18. February 1986 * |
Cited By (9)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
EP1036866A2 (fr) * | 1999-03-16 | 2000-09-20 | Amann & Söhne GmbH & Co. | Fil à coudre et procédé pour la production d'un tel fil à coudre |
EP1036866A3 (fr) * | 1999-03-16 | 2003-11-05 | Amann & Söhne GmbH & Co. | Fil à coudre et procédé pour la production d'un tel fil à coudre |
WO2002018702A2 (fr) * | 2000-08-30 | 2002-03-07 | Warwick Mills, Inc. | Procedes permettant d'ameliorer l'aptitude a la teinture et la resistance a la perforation de textiles comprenant des fibres haute tenacite et textiles produits a l'aide de ces procedes |
WO2002018702A3 (fr) * | 2000-08-30 | 2002-08-15 | Warwick Mills Inc | Procedes permettant d'ameliorer l'aptitude a la teinture et la resistance a la perforation de textiles comprenant des fibres haute tenacite et textiles produits a l'aide de ces procedes |
US6668868B2 (en) | 2000-08-30 | 2003-12-30 | Warwick Mills, Inc | Woven fabric constructions having high cover factors and fill yarns with a weight per unit length less than the weight per unit length of warp yarns of the fabric |
EP2463418A1 (fr) * | 2010-11-29 | 2012-06-13 | Amann & Söhne GmbH & Co. KG | Fil, notamment fil à coudre ou à broder et procédé de fabrication d'un tel fil |
JP2012117194A (ja) * | 2010-11-29 | 2012-06-21 | Amann & Soehne Gmbh & Co Kg | ヤーン、特に糸または刺繍糸、ならびにそのようなヤーンの製造方法 |
CN102534915A (zh) * | 2010-11-29 | 2012-07-04 | 亚曼泽恩有限责任两合公司 | 纱线,尤其是线或刺绣线以及生产这种纱线的方法 |
US8720174B2 (en) | 2010-11-29 | 2014-05-13 | Amann & Sohne Gmbh & Co. Kg | Yarn, especially a thread or an embroidery thread as well as a method to produce such a yarn |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
DE4215212A1 (de) | 1993-11-18 |
ES2093875T3 (es) | 1997-01-01 |
HK61397A (en) | 1997-05-16 |
ATE144801T1 (de) | 1996-11-15 |
DE59304337D1 (de) | 1996-12-05 |
EP0569891B1 (fr) | 1996-10-30 |
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