EP0353167A1 - Verfahren zum Plissieren von Stoffen und plissierte Stoffe - Google Patents

Verfahren zum Plissieren von Stoffen und plissierte Stoffe Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0353167A1
EP0353167A1 EP89420267A EP89420267A EP0353167A1 EP 0353167 A1 EP0353167 A1 EP 0353167A1 EP 89420267 A EP89420267 A EP 89420267A EP 89420267 A EP89420267 A EP 89420267A EP 0353167 A1 EP0353167 A1 EP 0353167A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fabric
selvedges
pleating
spiral tube
pleated
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP89420267A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0353167B1 (de
Inventor
Claude Corbière
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Corbiere Sa Dite Ste
Corbiere SA
Original Assignee
Corbiere Sa Dite Ste
Corbiere SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Corbiere Sa Dite Ste, Corbiere SA filed Critical Corbiere Sa Dite Ste
Publication of EP0353167A1 publication Critical patent/EP0353167A1/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0353167B1 publication Critical patent/EP0353167B1/de
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06J—PLEATING, KILTING OR GOFFERING TEXTILE FABRICS OR WEARING APPAREL
    • D06J1/00—Pleating, kilting or goffering textile fabrics or wearing apparel
    • D06J1/12—Forms of pleats or the like
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06H—MARKING, INSPECTING, SEAMING OR SEVERING TEXTILE MATERIALS
    • D06H5/00—Seaming textile materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06J—PLEATING, KILTING OR GOFFERING TEXTILE FABRICS OR WEARING APPAREL
    • D06J1/00—Pleating, kilting or goffering textile fabrics or wearing apparel

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an improved process for producing pleated textile fabrics; it also relates to a new pleated fabric.
  • Pleated fabrics such as fabrics, knits and non-wovens, products which will be designated in the following description and in the claims by 1 expression "fabrics”, are well known and are widely used for the manufacture of clothing (skirts, dresses ..) and in furniture (curtains, net curtains ..).
  • bias cut devices have also been proposed which make it possible to continuously transform a standard fabric into a “bias” by edge-to-edge stitching and concomitant cutting perpendicular to said stitching. It comes down to stitching up strips cut from the fabric.
  • the present invention overcomes these drawbacks.
  • It relates to a process which makes it possible to continuously, economically and efficiently perform bias pleating in a fabric, in particular in a fabric.
  • the process for manufacturing a pleated textile fabric according to the invention is characterized in that it consists: - first of all, from a flat fabric, to make a spiral tube by connection from one to the other of the two edges of this fabric, - then, in known manner, to fold this spiral tube and to fix the folds thus formed, - and finally, to undo the connection joining the two edges of the fabric.
  • Such a method makes it possible, as a function of the inclination of the spiral formed (angle designated hereinafter alpha), to obtain at will a different inclination in the bias in the direction of the fabric.
  • alpha the inclination of the spiral formed
  • the pleating is carried out in the direction of the length of the spiral tube formed, after cutting, in the finished fabric there are obtained transverse folds with respect to the selvedges inclined with respect to the latter as a function of the pitch of the spiral.
  • a pleating is carried out in the transverse direction of the spiral tube formed, a pleated article is obtained having an inversion effect.
  • the fabric is a warp and weft fabric containing thermoplastic threads (polyamide, polyester, triacetate, silk); -the two selvedges are assembled by sewing; this seam is generally carried out edge to edge or folded edges; one can also use other techniques, such as welding, bonding the two selvedges to one another; - the pleating is carried out in a conventional manner after flattening of the spiral tube formed; - pleating is carried out by subjecting the spinnaker tube related to a tension along the longitudinal axis of the tube and simultaneously to transverse compression and thermal fixation (technique called "Fortuni"); - pleating takes place in the longitudinal direction of the flat spiral tube; - pleating is carried out in the transverse direction of the flat spiral tube; - the selvedges are separated by cutting or by any other known means, such as slitting, cutting a strip overlapping the seam, cutting, labile thread, etc.
  • thermoplastic threads polyamide, polyester, triacetate, silk
  • the formed spiral tube (5) is introduced (see Figures 2 and 3) into a conventional pleating machine (10).
  • the thermal fixing step can be carried out in the pleating machine (10) and advantageously on the same occasion and simultaneously with this pleating.
  • the machine (10) pleats lengthwise and a pleated tubular spiral assembly (11) is obtained.
  • One can also (see Figure 3) perform a transverse pleating to obtain a pleated tube (12).
  • the pleated tubes (10-12) are then brought to a station (13) where the sewn edges (2,3) are separated from the pleated tube (11,12). After removing the seam (6), pleated articles (14) and (15) are obtained, respectively.
  • the pleats (16) are oriented at an angle relative to the selvedges (2,3) of the fabric.
  • the pleats (17,18) are oriented alternately in one direction (17) then in the other (18), but always at an angle, the two directions (17 , 18) being clearly separated by a fold (19), which forms inversion effects.
  • the fabric is as already said a warp and weft fabric containing thermoplastic threads and the pleating is carried out by the "Fortuni" method, that is to say by subjecting the spiral tube (5) to a tension along its longitudinal axis and simultaneously with transverse compression and thermal fixation.
  • FIG. 4 designated by the general reference (20) comprising warp threads (21) bordered by two selvedges respectively (22) and (23), and connected together by weft threads (24).
  • the reference (25) designates the bias folds.
  • the warp (21) and weft (24) network is deformed obliquely (and is therefore no longer orthogonal) during pleating, and the weft threads (24) are then inclined by a regular angle with respect to the perpendicular to the selvedges (22,23) and with respect to the perpendicular to the axis of the fabric (20).
  • This beta tilt axis can vary within wide limits depending on the nature of the starting fabric, the alpha seam angle of the spiral tube (5), the traction and compression applied during the pleating treatment.
  • This pleated warp and weft fabric (20) is characterized by both: - By the fact that the folds (25) are biased relative to the selvedges (22,23); - And by the fact that the weft threads (24) are also inclined regularly with respect to these same selvedges.
  • the process of the invention is applicable to all types of fabrics, in particular simple weave fabrics intended for furnishing and clothing.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
EP89420267A 1988-07-28 1989-07-21 Verfahren zum Plissieren von Stoffen und plissierte Stoffe Expired - Lifetime EP0353167B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR8810448 1988-07-28
FR8810448A FR2634798B1 (fr) 1988-07-28 1988-07-28 Procede pour la realisation d'articles textiles plisses et nouveaux types d'articles obtenus par la mise en oeuvre de ce procede

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0353167A1 true EP0353167A1 (de) 1990-01-31
EP0353167B1 EP0353167B1 (de) 1992-04-15

Family

ID=9369045

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP89420267A Expired - Lifetime EP0353167B1 (de) 1988-07-28 1989-07-21 Verfahren zum Plissieren von Stoffen und plissierte Stoffe

Country Status (4)

Country Link
US (1) US5027988A (de)
EP (1) EP0353167B1 (de)
DE (1) DE68901229D1 (de)
FR (1) FR2634798B1 (de)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0924332A1 (de) * 1997-12-16 1999-06-23 C'Est Duo international, Ltd. Verfahren zum Knittern

Families Citing this family (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5413149A (en) * 1991-11-05 1995-05-09 The Bentley-Harris Manufacturing Company Shaped fabric products and methods of making same
US5613522A (en) * 1991-11-05 1997-03-25 Bentley-Harris Inc. Shaped fabric products
US5983952A (en) * 1998-03-13 1999-11-16 Tietex International, Ltd. System and method for forming a fabric having a synchronized woven design and printed design
US20040052988A1 (en) * 2002-09-17 2004-03-18 Jean-Marc Slovencik Cushioning product and method and apparatus for making same
JP2004202382A (ja) * 2002-12-25 2004-07-22 Nitto Denko Corp スパイラル型膜エレメントの製造方法
JP3894909B2 (ja) * 2003-04-25 2007-03-22 株式会社オザキプリーツ プリーツ製品の製造方法
JP7089424B2 (ja) * 2018-07-13 2022-06-22 Ｅｎｅｏｓ株式会社 シワ加工方法、シワ加工装置、及び同装置を含むシワ加工システム
CN111144530A (zh) * 2020-01-17 2020-05-12 白复华 彩色防伪码布标的制备方法

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB571397A (en) * 1943-11-20 1945-08-23 Spiral Bagging Machine Corp Improvements in a method and apparatus for making spiral wound tubing
FR2398830A1 (en) * 1977-07-29 1979-02-23 Corbiere Jacques Continuous high speed pleating machine - may be associated with steam setting treatment

Family Cites Families (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1828554A (en) * 1929-03-15 1931-10-20 H M Bunker & Company Inc Machine for fopming tubular fabrics
US2415824A (en) * 1943-06-10 1947-02-18 Superba Mfg Co Inc Machine for manufacturing fabric tubing
FR2561270B1 (fr) * 1984-03-15 1986-08-14 Corbiere Sa Procede pour donner du relief dans plusieurs directions a une etoffe textile et etoffe ainsi traitee

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB571397A (en) * 1943-11-20 1945-08-23 Spiral Bagging Machine Corp Improvements in a method and apparatus for making spiral wound tubing
FR2398830A1 (en) * 1977-07-29 1979-02-23 Corbiere Jacques Continuous high speed pleating machine - may be associated with steam setting treatment

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0924332A1 (de) * 1997-12-16 1999-06-23 C'Est Duo international, Ltd. Verfahren zum Knittern

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP0353167B1 (de) 1992-04-15
FR2634798A1 (fr) 1990-02-02
US5027988A (en) 1991-07-02
DE68901229D1 (de) 1992-05-21
FR2634798B1 (fr) 1990-09-14

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