EP0331780B1 - Chaussure et son procédé de fabrication - Google Patents

Chaussure et son procédé de fabrication Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0331780B1
EP0331780B1 EP88103710A EP88103710A EP0331780B1 EP 0331780 B1 EP0331780 B1 EP 0331780B1 EP 88103710 A EP88103710 A EP 88103710A EP 88103710 A EP88103710 A EP 88103710A EP 0331780 B1 EP0331780 B1 EP 0331780B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
insole
tip
edges
stitched
stuck
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP88103710A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP0331780A1 (fr
Inventor
Herbert Dr.-Ing. Funck
Johann Schmidt
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Priority to EP88103710A priority Critical patent/EP0331780B1/fr
Priority to AT88103710T priority patent/ATE76720T1/de
Priority to DE8888103710T priority patent/DE3871772D1/de
Priority to DE8815175U priority patent/DE8815175U1/de
Publication of EP0331780A1 publication Critical patent/EP0331780A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0331780B1 publication Critical patent/EP0331780B1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B9/00Footwear characterised by the assembling of the individual parts

Definitions

  • the invention relates to an upper shoe for shoes with cushioned soles of the type specified in the preamble of claim 1.
  • cushion soles which are usually made of PU alone or in combination with other materials, are not only elastically deformable within certain limits, but also have a cushioning effect that the wearer perceives as pleasant against shock loads.
  • the deformability of such cushion soles requires special flexible insoles with low elasticity. This requirement is met by e.g. B. Insoles made of textile materials met, which is sewn to the lower edge of the upper with a circumferential California seam.
  • upper shoes are also known, in which the lower shaft edges are wrapped around the last edge and the insole edges and are sticky with the latter.
  • this type of shoe called “Ago shoes”
  • the incorporation of the toecaps is no problem, since they can be glued to the inside of the upper in the tip area in the form of rags before the lasting process.
  • this type of shoe requires a dimensionally stable insole, which is generally undesirable for shoes with cushioned soles or for soles with a built-in footbed, because due to their stiffness they do not withstand the high bending stresses and furthermore reduce the special cushioning and cushioning properties of the cushioned soles.
  • the object of the invention is to provide an upper shoe for shoes with cushioned soles, which has no design-related restrictions on the shoe design and which, with simplified production, enables increased strength of the adhesive connection of the outsole, particularly in the ball area. Furthermore, a simple and largely automated manufacturing process for such an upper shoe is to be demonstrated.
  • the upper shoe according to the invention is characterized by the features specified in claim 1.
  • the insole is sewn with the lower edge of the upper around the heel to the front up to the calf area in the California style.
  • the tab-like lugs on the upper are pulled inwards in the ball area and sewn to the edges of the two insole cutouts.
  • the lasting fold at the tip of the shaft is also turned inwards and glued to the front end part of the insole.
  • two tab-like approaches or widenings are cut onto the two side parts of the leather blank, which have an increasing width starting from the heel part and end shortly before the tip of the shaft over transverse edges again at the normal shaft edge.
  • a further flap is cut in the form of a lasting fold, onto which a front cap is laminated before the two side parts of the blank are sewn together, the outer edge of which ends at a predetermined distance from the outer edge of the shaft material.
  • One half of a heel counter is attached to each of the two rear sections of the side parts of the blank, the rear and upper edge of each half of the heel cap ending just before the outer edges of the upper material, while the lower edges are flush with those of the upper material.
  • the insole is made of a flexible and seamless material, e.g. B. from a semi-rigid plastic, her Outline in the heel area and in the toe area corresponds to the course of the last edge.
  • Two side cutouts extend forward to beyond the bale section. Their shape corresponds to the respective shape and dimensions of the tab-like lugs cut onto the shaft. These cutouts end in front of the toe area of the insole or upper shoe on the normal last edge, so that the shape of the insole in this toe area again corresponds to the course of the last edge.
  • a horseshoe-shaped reinforcement insert made of rigid, thin material can be glued to the underside of the insole, the outer edge of which corresponds to the contour of the insole.
  • the upper shoe produced according to the invention has the advantage that in the side and front shoe area there are no lasting seams along the bending or last edges, so that these particularly highly stressed zones can be roughened properly before the soft-elastic cushioned soles are glued on or molded on.
  • the adhesive connection between the upper shoe and the cushioned sole is particularly strong in the shoe areas that are particularly subject to bending when worn.
  • the production of the upper shoe is no more complex than with conventional methods, since the chain seams can be made in one continuous sewing process.
  • the upper shoe shown in FIG. 1 contains a shaft 1 consisting of leather blanks and an insole 2 made of a semi-rigid material with low stretchability.
  • the insole 2 is sewn to the lower edge of the shaft 1 by a chain seam 3, this chain seam 3 starting from point 4 below the floor surface, in the area of the heel in the edge line 5 of the last 6 and on the opposite side extends continuously under the bottom surface of the shoe to point 8 between the ball area and the toe.
  • an elongated shaft strip in the form of a lasting fold 9 is wrapped around the front part of the insole and glued to it.
  • FIG. 2 consists of a one-part or multi-part front part 10, which merges into two side parts 11, 12 later forming the side walls of the shoe.
  • a stiffer insert 13, 14 is glued to the inner surface of each side part, the outer edges 15 of which coincide with the edge of the associated side part 11 or 12, and the rear and inner edges 16, 17 of which are short of the corresponding rear and inner edges 18, 19 of the associated side part end, the folded edges 18 thus formed being sewn together.
  • two outer tab-shaped projections 20, 21 are cut, the outer edge of which can be straight or curved.
  • another tab-shaped extension 22 is cut, which extends around the tip.
  • a more rigid horseshoe-shaped insert 23 is fastened to the inner surface of this attachment 22, which is deformed in the course of shoe manufacture and forms a point reinforcement.
  • the shaft cut shown in FIG. 2 is brought into the shape according to FIG. 5, the rear edges 18 of the two side parts 11, 12 being sewn together.
  • the width of these edges is chosen so that after sewing together the end edges 16 of the heel reinforcements 13, 14 are just covered and there is a continuous surface in the rear part of the heel, as shown in Fig. 4.
  • the insert 23 which later forms the tip reinforcement also ends with it Front edge 24 shortly before the front edge 25 of the neck 22 cut to the front part 10 of the shaft (cf. FIGS. 2, 5).
  • the one tab-shaped extension 21 begins with a transverse edge 4 between the ball and toe areas and gradually goes behind the ball area into the conventional lower edge of the shaft, i.e. the ledge edge 5, above, with its outer edge having a curved arcuate course.
  • the approach 20 has the same or similar shape and begins with a transverse edge 8 in front of the ball or joint area.
  • the base points of the two transverse edges 4 and 8 also lie on the line of the conventional shaft cut, i.e. approximately in the area of the ledge edge 5.
  • each transverse edge 4 or 8 and the adjacent edge of the tip extension 22 is chosen so that the edges of the approached extension 22 abut with the transverse edges 4, 8 of the respective extension 20, 21 at finished upper shoe meet, or that the transverse edges 4, 8 are covered by the marginal edges of the approached approach 22, as shown in Fig. 1.
  • the insole shown in plan view in FIG. 3 consists of a semi-rigid, relatively thin material of the same or decreasing wall thickness, which has a relatively low stretchability and sufficient strength with sufficient flexibility.
  • the outer contour of this insole 2 corresponds to the conventional designs, ie its edge runs approximately in the edge line 5 of the last or the finished one Shoe.
  • this insole 2 has two lateral cutouts 30, 31, the shape of which roughly corresponds to that of the two lugs 20, 21, so that the marginal edges of the lugs 20, 21 with those of the cutouts 30, 31 in the insole 2 can be brought to the plant.
  • the cutouts 30, 31 begin in the middle part and extend over the entire toe joint area, their oblique front edges 34, 35 ending on the line of a conventional insole, ie in the last edge 5.
  • a horseshoe-shaped reinforcement insert 36 which consists of a stiffer material and is shown in FIG. 4, is glued to the underside of the insole 2 in its tip region.
  • the upper shoe shown in the drawing is manufactured as follows: The two inserts 13, 14 and the reinforcing insert 23 are glued onto a flat shaft blank of the shape shown in FIG. 2. The shaft is then brought into the shape shown in FIG. 5 and the edges 18 of the two side parts 11, 12 are sewn together.
  • the insole 2 produced separately in the form shown in FIG. 3 with the toe reinforcement 36 is then sewn on using a California seam 3, this chain seam - as shown in FIG. 1 - up to the front transverse edges 4, 8 of the two lateral ones Approaches 20, 21 extends.
  • the chain seam runs in the - later - shoe bottom and does not follow the line of the later last edges 5.
  • the upper shoe blank is placed on a conventional suitable last 6, e.g. B. a so-called. Sliding strips, whereupon the approach 22 is turned over in the toe area and glued to the reinforcement insert 36 of the insole. This completes the upper shoe and is followed by further processing for the durable attachment of the prefabricated cushioned sole, which, however, can also be foamed or molded.
  • a conventional suitable last 6 e.g. B. a so-called. Sliding strips, whereupon the approach 22 is turned over in the toe area and glued to the reinforcement insert 36 of the insole.
  • the invention is not limited to the embodiment shown and described in detail above.
  • the tip and / or heel reinforcement can be omitted for particularly soft shoes.
  • the shape of the two tab-shaped projections 20, 21 on the shaft and that of the cutouts 30, 31 in the insole 2 can be changed with respect to the contour shown.
  • the upper shoe construction according to the invention can be regarded as a combination of three types, the California type being used in the middle and rear area, the moccasin type inside and outside in the area of the balls and the ago type in the toe area.

Claims (8)

  1. Dessus pour chaussures à semelles souples,
    comprenant une tige (1) et une première (2) fixée aux bords de la tige, ainsi que, éventuellement, un renfort de pointe et/ou de talon (36; 13), dessus sur lequel un rabat de montage avant (9) de la tige (1) est replié autour de la région de la pointe de la première (2) et collé à celle-ci et sur lequel les parties restantes des bords de la première sont cousues à la tige (1),
    caractérisé en ce
    que la tige (1) présente, sur son côté inférieur, deux appendices (20, 21) en forme de languettes, de même que, dans la région de la pointe de la tige, un rabat de montage (9), et
    que la première (2) est faite d'un matériau flexible qui résiste à la couture et présente deux échancrures latérales (30, 31) dans la région de la partie avant renflée de la plante, échancrures dont les bords sont cousus à ceux des appendices (20, 21) en forme de languettes, repliés vers l'intérieur.
  2. Dessus selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que les appendices (20, 21) en forme de languettes s'étendent à partir de la région du talon jusqu'au-delà de la partie avant renflée et d'articulation de la plante, et se terminent par un bord transversal avant voisin du bord transversal arrière du rabat de montage (9; 22).
  3. Dessus selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce qu'un renfort (36) en forme de fer à cheval est fixé dans la région de la pointe de la première (2).
  4. Dessus selon une des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisé en ce qu'un bout (23) est fixé dans la région de la pointe de la tige (1) et est assemblé par collage, ensemble avec le rabat de montage (9; 22), sur le côté inférieur de la pointe, éventuellement renforcée, de la première.
  5. Procédé pour fabriquer un dessus pour chaussures à semelles souples, selon lequel les deux parties latérales (11, 12) de la découpe destinée à former la tige, sont cousues ensemble par leurs bords arrière (18), éventuellement en même temps qu'un renfort de talon (13, 14) et
    selon lequel, ensuite, la première (2) est cousue sur les bords inférieurs de la tige (1) par une piqûre bord à bord façon California dans la région du talon,
    caractérisé en ce
    que des appendices (20, 21) en forme de languettes sont réalisés lors du découpage sur les deux parties latérales (11, 12) de la tige, appendices qui sont cousus, avant le montage du dessus sur la forme, aux bords d'échancrures latérales (30, 31) pratiquées dans la première, de manière que les appendices (20, 21) se replient vers l'intérieur lors du montage sur la forme, et que, ensuite, après le montage sur la forme, un appendice (22) formé lors du découpage sur la pointe de la tige et constituant un rabat de montage (9; 22), est collé sur le côté inférieur de la pointe de la première.
  6. Procédé selon la revendication 5, caractérisé en ce que la première (2) est cousue à la tige (1), jusqu'à la région de la pointe assemblée par collage, par une piqûre bord à bord (3) qui s'étend de manière continue autour de la région du talon.
  7. Procédé selon la revendication 6, caractérisé en ce qu'un bout (23) est mis en place par contrecollage dans la pointe de la tige avant le collage du rabat de montage (22) sur la première (2).
  8. Procédé selon une des revendications 5 à 7, caractérise en ce que des inserts (13, 14) de contrefort sont collés sur le côté intérieur des parties latérales (11, 12) de la tige (1) avant que ces parties latérales ne soient cousues ensemble.
EP88103710A 1988-03-09 1988-03-09 Chaussure et son procédé de fabrication Expired - Lifetime EP0331780B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP88103710A EP0331780B1 (fr) 1988-03-09 1988-03-09 Chaussure et son procédé de fabrication
AT88103710T ATE76720T1 (de) 1988-03-09 1988-03-09 Oberschuh und verfahren zu seiner herstellung.
DE8888103710T DE3871772D1 (de) 1988-03-09 1988-03-09 Oberschuh und verfahren zu seiner herstellung.
DE8815175U DE8815175U1 (fr) 1988-03-09 1988-12-06

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP88103710A EP0331780B1 (fr) 1988-03-09 1988-03-09 Chaussure et son procédé de fabrication

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0331780A1 EP0331780A1 (fr) 1989-09-13
EP0331780B1 true EP0331780B1 (fr) 1992-06-03

Family

ID=8198792

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP88103710A Expired - Lifetime EP0331780B1 (fr) 1988-03-09 1988-03-09 Chaussure et son procédé de fabrication

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0331780B1 (fr)
AT (1) ATE76720T1 (fr)
DE (2) DE3871772D1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2988482B1 (ja) * 1999-02-02 1999-12-13 バレリアンシューズ株式会社 靴及びその製造方法
EP1457127A1 (fr) * 2003-03-12 2004-09-15 Caprice Schuhproduktion GmbH & Co. KG Chaussure
ITPD20090209A1 (it) * 2009-07-17 2011-01-18 Novation Motorbike S P A Calzatura sportiva, in particolare stivale da motociclismo

Family Cites Families (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2360506A (en) * 1943-03-08 1944-10-17 United Shoe Machinery Corp Manufacture of shoes
US2414105A (en) * 1943-09-22 1947-01-14 Kamborian Manufacture of open-end shoes
US3230559A (en) * 1963-07-18 1966-01-25 Mayer Seymour Method of shoe construction
EP0075621A1 (fr) * 1981-09-28 1983-04-06 Schering-Plough Corporation Chaussure
DE8335447U1 (de) * 1983-12-10 1984-03-22 Uvex Winter Optik GmbH, 8510 Fürth Schuh, insbesondere Arbeitsschuh
DE3434654A1 (de) * 1984-09-21 1986-04-03 Walter 6497 Steinau Bretschneider Schuh

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP0331780A1 (fr) 1989-09-13
DE3871772D1 (de) 1992-07-09
DE8815175U1 (fr) 1989-04-06
ATE76720T1 (de) 1992-06-15

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