CN1223567A - 维生素c传递系统 - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明提供化妆品组合物,其包含在药学上可接受的载体中通过二甲基异山梨糖醇酐而稳定的抗坏血酸(维生素C)。优选的载体为二元醇类如聚乙二醇、丙二醇和它们的混合物。通过交联、非乳化硅氧烷高弹体和挥发性硅氧烷的存在改善其美容性能。
Description
本发明背景
本发明范围
本发明涉及可稳定贮存抗坏血酸和然后将其传递至皮肤的化妆产品。
有关领域
抗坏血酸,也通称为维生素C,长期以来被认为是有益于皮肤外表的活性物质。报道维生素C可增加人皮肤组织胶原蛋白的产生。因此可减少皱纹和细纹。呈现从外表看起来更健康和更年轻的效果。也发现维生素C可用作紫外线阻滞剂或吸收剂。利用维生素C干扰黑色素形成过程的性质将它作为增白或漂白皮肤的组合物。另外,据信抗坏血酸与人免疫系统相互作用以减少皮肤对有害化学品的敏感性。皮肤上维生素C浓度减少也与皮肤紧张状态的增加有关。总的说来,维生素C即抗坏血酸当局部应用时可提供明显的益处。
不利的是维生素C是极不稳定的物质。虽然它易溶于水,但在水介质中迅速发生氧化。报道抗血酸在非水介质中的溶解度是相对较低的,因此阻止了无水系统达到任何显著水平的活性浓度。
本领域一直在寻找克服上述问题的各种方法。一种方法是制备抗坏血酸的衍生物。这些衍生物具有比母体化合物更高的稳定性并通过生物转化或化学水解在作用位点转化成母体酸。例如,美国专利5137723(Yamamoto等)和美国专利5078989(Ando等)分别提供糖基化物(glycosylate)和酯的衍生物。
美国专利4818521(Tamabuchi)在背景技术下介绍所谓双包装型(two-packtype)化妆品,其中维生素C粉末和其它成分分别装在不同的容器内,在使用化妆品之前才混合。据说混合的方法及高费用的包装是该系统的缺点。本专利提供稳定的水包油型弱酸性的乳剂,其中抗坏血酸与稳定油已被预先混合。
在美国专利5140043(Darr等)中也提出保持pH低于约3.5作为抗坏血酸含水组合物的稳定手段。
可与水相容的醇如丙二醇、聚丙二醇和甘油被建议可以与水一起作为共载体(co-carriers)以改善稳定性。在美国专利4983382(Wilmott和Znaiden)中可找到该方法的说明。其中水和与水可混溶的有机溶剂的混合物一起作为稳定体系。至少约40%的有机溶剂必须是乙醇而其余部分可以选自这样的醇如丙二醇、丙三醇、二丙二醇和聚丙二醇。
日本专利44-22312(Shionogi)介绍了通过各种二醇来稳定在主要含水介质中的维生素C。这些二醇包括聚乙二醇、乙二醇、二甘醇和甚至乙醇。这些制剂供摄入。
美国专利4372874(Modrovich)报道将相对大量的抗坏血酸掺入极性与水可混溶的有机溶剂如二甲亚砜中。通过加入粒状干燥剂到载体中使水量保持在0.5%以下。虽然强极性体系如二甲亚砜是有效的,但它和有关载体有毒性问题。
因此,本发明的目的是提供抗坏血酸的传递系统,在该系统中所述化合物可以稳定储存。
本发明的另一目的是提供传递系统,该系统协助抗坏血酸渗透到人体皮肤中而避免其刺激作用。
本发明的又一目的是提供传递抗坏血酸的系统使其具有美容效果并产生柔滑的皮肤感。
本发明的这些和其它目的通过下列概述、详细介绍和实施例将变得更加明确。
本发明概述
提供化妆品组合物,其包括:
(ⅰ)0.001-50%(重量)的抗坏血酸;
(ⅱ)0.5-20%(重量)的二甲基异山梨糖醇酐;和
(ⅲ)以有效量存在的药学上可接受的载体,以便将抗坏血酸传递至皮肤。
也提供使抗坏血酸稳定的方法,其包括将稳定量的二甲基异山梨糖醇酐加入在药学上可接受的载体存在下的抗坏血酸中。
本发明详述
目前已经发现,通过使用在药学上可接受的载体中的二甲基异山梨糖醇酐可使抗坏血酸对分解稳定。在化学文摘中,二甲基异山梨糖醇酐的已知名称为1,4∶3,6二脱水-2,5-二-O-甲基-D-山梨醇。商业上,它可以以商标Arlasolve DMI从ICI Surfactants获得。该物质的用量范围为0.5-20%,优选1-10%,最优选为1.5-8%(重量)。
从几个来源包括Roche Chemicals可获得抗坏血酸。该原料的用量可在0.001-50%的范围内,优选为0.1-10%,最优选为1-10%(重量)。
本发明的组合物需要药学上可接受的载体。在化妆品组合物中,所述载体通常为存在量最高的一种组分。所述载体的用量范围为10-99.9%,优选25-90%,最优选为50-85%(重量)。药学上可接受的载体可选自水、多元醇、硅氧烷流体、酯以及它们的混合物。当水存在时,其可为所述组合物的0.5-20%,优选为1-10%,通常为2-6%,最优选小于5%(重量)。
最好一种或多种多元醇作为载体存在于本发明组合物中。例证是丙二醇、二丙二醇、聚丙二醇、聚乙二醇、山梨醇、羟丙基山梨醇、己二醇、1,3-丁二醇、1,2,6-己三醇、丙三醇、乙氧基化丙三醇、丙氧基化丙三醇和它们的混合物。最优选的多元醇是聚乙二醇(分子量范围为200-2000)和丙二醇的混合物。优选聚乙二醇与丙二醇的重量比为5∶1-1∶10,优选2∶1-1∶5,更优选2∶1-1∶2,最优选1∶1-1∶2。多元醇的用量为所述组合物的1-50%,优选为10-40%,最优选为25-35%(重量)。
本发明组合物中也包含硅油作为载体。这些油应是挥发性或非挥发性的。在此所用术语“挥发性的”指具有在室温下能检测到蒸气压的那些物质。挥发性硅油优选自含有约3-约9个(优选约4-约5个)硅原子的环状或线性聚二甲基硅氧烷。环甲基硅酮是优选的挥发性硅油的常用名称并可作为四聚体或五聚体而获得。挥发性硅氧烷的用量应为所述组合物的10-80%,优选20-70%,最优选为30-65%(重量)。
线性挥发性硅氧烷材料于25℃时的粘度低于约5厘沲,而环状材料的粘度低于约10厘沲。
用于本发明的优选挥发性硅氧烷的实例包括:Dow Coming344、Dow Coming 345和Dow Corning 200(由Dow Corning公司生产);硅氧烷7207和硅氧烷7158(由Union Carbide Corp.生产);SF1202(由General Electric生产);及SWS-03314(由SWS Silicones,Inc.生产)。
用于本发明组合物中所述非挥发性硅油的实例为聚烷基硅氧烷、聚烷基芳基硅氧烷和聚醚硅氧烷共聚物。在此应用的基本非挥发性聚烷基硅氧烷包括,例如在25℃时具有约5-约100000厘沲粘度的聚二甲基硅氧烷。用于本发明组合物中优选的非挥发性硅氧烷为在25℃具有约10-约400厘沲粘度的聚二甲基硅氧烷。此类聚烷基硅氧烷包括Viscasil系列(购于General Electric Company)和Dow Corning 200系列(购于Dow Cornmg Corporation)。聚烷基芳基硅氧烷包括聚(甲苯基)硅氧烷,其在25℃时具有约15-约65厘沲的粘度。例如,可以以SF1075甲苯基流体而获得(购于General Electric Company)和以556化妆品级流体而获得(购于Dow Corning Corporation)。有用的聚醚硅氧烷共聚物包括如在25℃时具有约1200-1500厘沲粘度的聚氧化烯醚共聚物。这样的流体可以以SF-1066有机硅表面活性剂而获得(购于GeneralElectric Company)。鲸蜡基聚二甲基硅氧烷共聚醇和鲸蜡基聚二甲基硅氧烷为特别优选,因为这些物质也具有乳化剂和润滑剂作用。前一物质可以以商标Abil EM-90由Goldschmidt AG获得。非挥发性硅氧烷的用量为组合物的0.1-40%,优选为0.5-25%(重量)。
也可将酯掺入化妆品组合物中作为药学上可接受的载体。其用量范围为组合物的0.1-50%(重量)。其中所述酯为:
(1)具有10-20个碳原子的脂肪酸烷基酯。在此所用的是脂肪酸的甲基、异丙基和丁基酯。其实例包括月桂酸己酯、月桂酸异己酯、棕榈酸异己酯、棕榈酸异丙酯、油酸癸酯、油酸异癸酯、硬脂酸十六烷基酯、硬脂酸癸酯、异硬脂酸异丙酯、己二酸二异丙酯、己二酸二异己酯、己二酸二-十六烷基酯、癸二酸二异丙酯、乳酸月桂酯、乳酸十四烷基酯和乳酸鲸蜡酯。特别优选苯甲酸C12-C15醇酯。
(2)具有10-20个碳原子的脂肪酸链烯酯。其实例包括十四烷酸油基酯、硬脂酸油基酯和油酸油基酯。
(3)醚-酯如乙氧基化脂肪醇脂肪酸酯。
(4)多元醇酯。乙二醇单和双-脂肪酸酯、二甘醇单和双-脂肪酸酯、乙二醇(200-6000)单和双-脂肪酸酯、丙二醇单和双-脂肪酸酯、单油酸聚丙二醇2000酯、单硬脂酸聚丙二醇2000酯、单硬脂酸乙氧基化丙二醇酯、单和双-脂肪酸丙三醇酯、聚丙三醇聚-脂肪酯、单硬脂酸乙氧基化丙三醇酯、单硬脂酸1,3-丁二醇酯、二硬脂酸1,3-丁二醇酯、聚氧乙烯多元醇脂肪酸酯、脱水山梨醇脂肪酸酯和聚氧乙烯脱水山梨醇脂肪酸酯为适合的多元醇酯。
(5)蜡酯如蜂蜡、鲸蜡、十四烷酸十四烷基酯、硬脂肪酸十八烷基酯。
(6)甾醇酯,其实例是胆甾醇脂肪酸酯。
通过加入交联非-乳化硅氧烷高弹体可以改善掺有维生素C的乳剂的感官特性和稳定性。这些高弹体的数均分子量超过10,000,优选超过1,000,000,最优选为10,000-20,000,000的范围。术语“非乳化的”指缺乏聚氧化烯单位的硅氧烷。优选由二乙烯单体与硅氧烷主链的Si-H键反应而生成的交联非-乳化硅氧烷高弹体。示例性的高弹体为具有CTFA名称交联硬脂基甲基-二甲基硅氧烷共聚体的物质,其可以以Gransil SR-CYC(25-35%活性高弹体)由Grant Industries,Inc.,ElmwoodPark,New Jersey购得。有关的高弹体的供应也可由通用电器公司获得。
高弹体的用量范围可为所述组合物的0.1-30%,优选为1-25%,最优选为10-20%(重量)。
在本发明的化妆品组合物中也包含少量添加剂组分。这些组分选自防腐剂、香料、消泡剂、遮光剂、着色剂和它们的混合物,每种组分以其有效用量完成其各自的功能。
下列实施例将更充分说明本发明的实施方案。除另有说明外,在此和附带的权利要求书中所有份数、百分数和比例均为以重量计算。
实施例1
在表Ⅰ列出的试验制剂和对照制剂中评价二甲基异山梨糖醇酐对抗坏血酸稳定性的影响。这些制剂都置于110°F的温度控制箱中。然后在间隔2、4和8周后测定剩余的抗坏血酸的量。
表Ⅰ
试验制剂
组分 | 实施例号(重量%) | |
1 | 1A(对照) | |
环甲基硅酮 | 42.0 | 42.0 |
Gransil SR CYL | 18.0 | 18.0 |
聚乙二醇200 | 20.3 | 21.0 |
二甲基异山梨糖醇酐 | 10.0 | -- |
抗坏血酸 | 5.0 | 5.0 |
鲸蜡基二甲基硅氧烷共聚醇 | 0.8 | 0.8 |
水 | 平衡 | 平衡 |
在二甲基异山梨糖醇酐的存在下,基本上未发生抗坏血酸的降解。相反,对照制剂在8周的时间内损失了大约10%的抗坏血酸。这些数据见表Ⅱ中。
表Ⅱ
____于110°F下抗坏血酸的贮存稳定性
组分 | 实施例号(抗坏血酸残留%) | |
1 | 1A(对照) | |
开始 | 100 | 100 |
2周 | 99 | 83 |
4周 | 99 | 93 |
8周 | 99 | 91 |
实施例2-5
制备一系列其它的实施例。它们的组成列于表Ⅲ中。这些制剂为抗坏血酸提供良好的贮存稳定性并肯定为美容消费者所接受。
表Ⅲ
组分 | 实施例号(重量%) | |||
2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | |
环甲基硅酮 | 42.0 | 41.6 | 40.0 | 42.0 |
Gransil SR CYL | 18.0 | 17.9 | 17.3 | 18.0 |
丙二醇 | 16.8 | 14.8 | 17.5 | 15.0 |
聚乙二醇200 | 11.0 | 13.7 | 13.5 | 13.5 |
抗坏血酸 | 5.0 | 5.0 | 5.0 | 5.0 |
二甲基异山梨糖醇酐 | 2.0 | 2.0 | 2.0 | 2.0 |
鲸蜡基二甲基硅氧烷共聚醇 | 0.8 | 0.8 | 0.8 | 0.8 |
水 | 平衡 | 平衡 | 平衡 | 平衡 |
实施例6-12
这些系列的实施例说明本发明的范围,并列出了各种浓度和不同的二醇载体。
表Ⅳ
组分 | 实施例号(重量%) | ||||||
6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | |
环甲基硅酮 | 36.0 | 36.0 | 36.0 | 40.0 | 40.0 | 45.0 | 32.0 |
Gransil SRCYL | 24.0 | 24.0 | 24.0 | 20.0 | 20.0 | 15.0 | 27.0 |
丁二醇 | 17.5 | -- | 17.5 | -- | -- | -- | 29.0 |
丙三醇 | -- | 17.5 | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- |
聚乙二醇200 | 10.0 | -- | -- | 17.5 | 12.0 | 10.0 | 10.0 |
聚乙二醇800 | -- | 10.0 | 10.0 | 10.0 | 12.0 | 10.0 | -- |
二甲基异山梨糖醇酐 | 2.0 | 2.0 | 2.0 | 4.0 | 8.0 | 10.0 | 1.0 |
抗坏血酸 | 1.0 | 1.0 | 1.0 | 4.0 | 4.0 | 8.0 | 0.5 |
鲸蜡基二甲基硅氧烷共聚醇 | 0.8 | 0.8 | 0.8 | 0.8 | 0.8 | -- | -- |
水 | 平衡 | 平衡 | 平衡 | 平衡 | 平衡 | 平衡 | 平衡 |
以上介绍和实施例说明了本发明选择的实施例。据此,对本领域技术人员而言提出的各种改变和修饰均在本发明的精神及范围内。
Claims (9)
1.化妆品组合物,其包含:
(ⅰ)从0.001-50%(重量)的抗坏血酸;
(ⅱ)从0.5-20%(重量)的二甲基异山梨糖醇酐;和
(ⅲ)以有效量存在的药学上可接受的载体,以使所述抗坏血酸传递到皮肤。
2.权利要求1的组合物,其中所述载体含有多元醇的量为所述组合物的1-50%(重量)。
3.权利要求2(重量)的组合物,其中所述多元醇选自丙二醇、二丙二醇、聚丙二醇、聚乙二醇、山梨醇、羟丙基山梨醇、己二醇、1,3-丁二醇、1,2,6-己三醇、甘油、乙氧化甘油、丙氧化甘油及它们的混合物。
4.权利要求2的组合物,其中所述多元醇为重量比2∶1至1∶2的聚乙二醇和丙二醇的混合物。
5.权利要求1-4中任一项的组合物,其中所述载体含有水的量低于所述组合物的5%(重量)。
6.权利要求1-5中任一项的组合物,其中抗坏血酸的量为所述组合物的0.1-10%(重量)。
7.权利要求1-6中任一项的组合物还含有0.1-30%的交联、非乳化的硅氧烷高弹体。
8.权利要求7的组合物,其中所述交联、非乳化的硅氧烷高弹体由二乙烯基单体与硅氧烷主链的Si-H键反应而形成。
9.权利要求1-8中任一项的组合物还含有10-80%的挥发性硅氧烷。
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
US2250996P | 1996-06-28 | 1996-06-28 | |
US60/022,509 | 1996-06-28 |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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CN1223567A true CN1223567A (zh) | 1999-07-21 |
CN1104887C CN1104887C (zh) | 2003-04-09 |
Family
ID=21809951
Family Applications (1)
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CN97195794A Expired - Fee Related CN1104887C (zh) | 1996-06-28 | 1997-03-29 | 维生素c传递系统 |
Country Status (14)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (2) | US5750123A (zh) |
EP (1) | EP0910336B1 (zh) |
JP (1) | JP3675843B2 (zh) |
CN (1) | CN1104887C (zh) |
AR (1) | AR007613A1 (zh) |
AU (1) | AU2293597A (zh) |
CA (1) | CA2256390C (zh) |
DE (1) | DE69711045T2 (zh) |
ES (1) | ES2172776T3 (zh) |
ID (1) | ID19424A (zh) |
IN (3) | IN188456B (zh) |
TW (1) | TW470649B (zh) |
WO (1) | WO1998000102A1 (zh) |
ZA (1) | ZA972288B (zh) |
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CN103830120A (zh) * | 2012-11-26 | 2014-06-04 | 强生巴西工商业健康产品有限公司 | 用于递送稳定的抗坏血酸的双组分体系 |
CN105168109A (zh) * | 2015-10-13 | 2015-12-23 | 王丹 | 一种祛斑保湿护肤品及其制备方法 |
CN106852126A (zh) * | 2014-06-04 | 2017-06-13 | 阿尔邦国际有限公司 | 用于递送皮肤护理用活性成分的透明组合物和方法 |
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-
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- 1996-08-13 US US08/696,422 patent/US5750123A/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1996-08-13 US US08/696,305 patent/US5853741A/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
1997
- 1997-03-17 ZA ZA972288A patent/ZA972288B/xx unknown
- 1997-03-19 TW TW086103454A patent/TW470649B/zh not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1997-03-29 AU AU22935/97A patent/AU2293597A/en not_active Abandoned
- 1997-03-29 DE DE69711045T patent/DE69711045T2/de not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1997-03-29 CA CA002256390A patent/CA2256390C/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1997-03-29 WO PCT/EP1997/001625 patent/WO1998000102A1/en active IP Right Grant
- 1997-03-29 ES ES97915472T patent/ES2172776T3/es not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1997-03-29 CN CN97195794A patent/CN1104887C/zh not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1997-03-29 JP JP50377498A patent/JP3675843B2/ja not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1997-03-29 EP EP97915472A patent/EP0910336B1/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1997-04-03 IN IN199BO1997 patent/IN188456B/en unknown
- 1997-06-23 ID IDP972143A patent/ID19424A/id unknown
- 1997-06-23 AR ARP970102746A patent/AR007613A1/es active IP Right Grant
- 1997-09-09 IN IN530BO1997 patent/IN188590B/en unknown
- 1997-12-01 IN IN692BO1997 patent/IN188651B/en unknown
Cited By (7)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN1310641C (zh) * | 2001-03-23 | 2007-04-18 | 阿路荣日本股份有限公司 | 向皮肤真皮层释放l-抗坏血酸的方法及其组合物 |
EP2123257A2 (en) | 2008-05-20 | 2009-11-25 | Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH | Stable high Vitamin C content polyol-in-oil emulsified system and its preparation |
CN101584647B (zh) * | 2008-05-20 | 2012-10-31 | 赢创德固赛特种化学(上海)有限公司 | 高维生素c含量油包多元醇组合物及其制备方法 |
CN103830120A (zh) * | 2012-11-26 | 2014-06-04 | 强生巴西工商业健康产品有限公司 | 用于递送稳定的抗坏血酸的双组分体系 |
CN106852126A (zh) * | 2014-06-04 | 2017-06-13 | 阿尔邦国际有限公司 | 用于递送皮肤护理用活性成分的透明组合物和方法 |
CN105168109A (zh) * | 2015-10-13 | 2015-12-23 | 王丹 | 一种祛斑保湿护肤品及其制备方法 |
CN105168109B (zh) * | 2015-10-13 | 2018-04-13 | 广州五羊日化有限公司 | 一种祛斑保湿护肤品及其制备方法 |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
AR007613A1 (es) | 1999-11-10 |
CN1104887C (zh) | 2003-04-09 |
EP0910336B1 (en) | 2002-03-13 |
US5853741A (en) | 1998-12-29 |
EP0910336A1 (en) | 1999-04-28 |
AU2293597A (en) | 1998-01-21 |
DE69711045T2 (de) | 2002-09-19 |
IN188456B (zh) | 2002-09-28 |
ZA972288B (en) | 1998-09-17 |
WO1998000102A1 (en) | 1998-01-08 |
JP2000513363A (ja) | 2000-10-10 |
DE69711045D1 (de) | 2002-04-18 |
CA2256390C (en) | 2005-06-07 |
JP3675843B2 (ja) | 2005-07-27 |
US5750123A (en) | 1998-05-12 |
ES2172776T3 (es) | 2002-10-01 |
IN188590B (zh) | 2002-10-19 |
TW470649B (en) | 2002-01-01 |
IN188651B (zh) | 2002-10-26 |
ID19424A (id) | 1998-07-09 |
CA2256390A1 (en) | 1998-01-08 |
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