CN115595276A - 一种补水美白化妆品及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种补水美白化妆品及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN115595276A CN115595276A CN202211316743.0A CN202211316743A CN115595276A CN 115595276 A CN115595276 A CN 115595276A CN 202211316743 A CN202211316743 A CN 202211316743A CN 115595276 A CN115595276 A CN 115595276A
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Abstract
本发明提供了一种补水美白化妆品及其制备方法,由以下重量份原料组成:3~5份保湿剂、10~15份功能发酵液、0.5~1.5份乳化剂、0.5~1份增稠剂、50~70份水。本发明制备的补水美白化妆品温和不刺激,不仅具有很好的补水、美白效果,还具有抗氧化、抗衰的作用,为肌肤及时补充所需营养。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于化妆品技术领域,尤其涉及一种补水美白化妆品及其制备方法。
背景技术
由于年龄增长、压力大及生活不规律等原因,人体代谢、免疫力会受到影响,长此以往,皮肤就会表现出暗沉、粗糙、出现色斑、无光泽等现象。通过护肤皮进行适当、合理的皮肤护理必不可少。但是,大多数美白产品只能对某些色斑有效,淡斑美白作用并不全面,见效慢,容易复发;而且对皮肤刺激性大,易造成皮肤过敏。除此之外,在美白的同时不能兼顾补水保湿功效,不能从根本上改善皮肤状态,使皮肤细嫩、富有弹性、光泽。
中国专利CN102920622A公开了一种美白化妆品及其制备方法,其制备方法如下:将50~70wt%黄瓜籽油、15~25wt%圣约翰草油、15~25wt%金盏花油,20~25℃温度下混合、搅拌均匀,即得;本发明的美白化妆品采用天然植物油为原料,绿色、安全、对皮肤无刺激,具有良好的美白功效,对淡化色素沉着、疤痕修复也有一定的效果,但是其美白效果见效慢,此外补水效果也不强,在使用中需要搭配其他化妆品一同使用。
发明内容
针对上述现有技术中存在的不足,本发明提供了一种补水美白化妆品及其制备方法。
一种补水美白化妆品,按照质量份计,由以下原料组成:3~5份保湿剂、10~15份功能发酵液、0.5~1.5份乳化剂、0.5~1份增稠剂、50~70份水。
所述保湿剂为甘油、D-泛醇、水解葡糖氨基聚糖、甲基丙二醇中的至少一种。优选地,所述保湿剂为D-泛醇。
所述乳化剂选自聚甘油-10油酸酯、氢化卵磷脂、甘油硬脂酸酯、甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯中的至少一种。优选地,所述乳化剂为聚甘油-10油酸酯。
所述增稠剂选自丙烯酸类/异癸酸乙烯酯交联聚合物、阿拉伯树胶、黄原胶、卡波姆、羟乙基纤维素中的至少一种。优选地,所述增稠剂为黄原胶。
所述功能发酵液制备,包括以下步骤:
1)挑选无机械损伤的仙人掌嫩叶、黄秋葵嫩果、芦荟叶,将仙人掌嫩叶去刺、去除表皮、芦荟叶去除表皮、黄秋葵嫩果去除果蒂,均切为5~8g的小块,将仙人掌块、黄秋葵嫩果块和芦荟块按照质量比为(5~8):(2~4):(1~3)配伍后加入破壁机中,在2000~2200W功率下破壁5min,得到发酵基体;
2)按照质量份计,将10~15份步骤1)所得发酵基体加入20~30份水中混合均匀,得到预发酵液,再向预发酵液中加入0.03~0.1份发酵剂,搅拌均匀后密封,30~42℃避光发酵7~10天得混合浆液B。
3)将步骤2)得到的混合浆液B在离心机中以3000~4000rpm离心5~8min,取上清液,将上清液在100~110℃、300~400MPa下灭菌10~15min得到灭菌后的上清液,即为功能发酵液。
所述发酵剂为德式乳杆菌、异常汉逊酵母、植物乳杆菌、黑曲霉、酒曲中的至少一种。优选地,所述发酵剂由德式乳杆菌和异常汉逊酵母按照质量比1:(0.8~2)混合而成。
功能发酵液中含有较多的果胶和黏多糖,具有光滑肌肤的作用,芦荟发酵液中含有多种维生素,能够增白、提亮皮肤,含有的蛋白质粘液可以减缓肌肤衰老;仙人掌发酵液具有强保水作用,使水分和补水美白化妆品中的营养物质持续作用于肌肤。此外,经过发酵后,植物中营养成分大部分转化为护肤品小分子,渗透快,不黏腻。
发酵剂中的德式乳杆菌在发酵过程中产生的乳酸刺激胶原蛋白生成、减少皮肤变色,通过溶解死皮细胞、增加新细胞更新,产物中的乳链菌肽有广谱的抗菌性,可以用于敏感肌肤修护,发酵乳中含有乳酸、乙酸、丙酸等有机酸,可以显著降低功能发酵液的pH,使得细胞壁疏松,提高细胞通透性,促进菌丝中中的活性成分释放到发酵液中;发酵过程中还会产生胞外多糖,并螯合Mg2+、Ca2+等阳离子,进一步改变细胞壁的通透性,促进活性成分的溶出,此外,胞外多糖具有增稠、稳定、乳化、胶凝和持水的作用,同时还具有抗免疫活性;发酵剂中的异常汉逊酵母产生乙醇,乙醇可以溶解更多的活性成分在发酵液中,并促进精华乳中的活性成分能够穿透角质层进入肌底,浓度适中的乙醇不会刺激皮肤,还可以在一定程度上收缩毛孔,此外,乙醇的存在避免发酵过程细菌的滋生,使成分不腐败,活性有效成分可以保存更持久。德式乳杆菌和异常汉逊酵母两者协同发酵,可以促进更多活性成分溶出,控制皮肤的炎症,避免炎症释放的一些刺激黑素细胞活跃的物质,间接抑制黑色素的产生,此外发酵乳中含有乳酸菌,可以和乙醇产生酯化反应,防止酒精过多造成活性物质失活。
优选地,所述功能发酵液制备,包括以下步骤:
1)挑选无机械损伤的仙人掌嫩叶、黄秋葵嫩果、芦荟叶,将仙人掌嫩叶去刺去除表皮、芦荟叶去除表皮、黄秋葵嫩果去除果蒂,均切为5~8g的小块,将仙人掌块、黄秋葵嫩果块和芦荟块按照质量比为(5~8):(2~4):(1~3)配伍后加入破壁机中,在2000~2200W功率下破壁5min,得到发酵基体;
2)按照质量份计,将10~15份步骤1)所得发酵基体、0.5~1份金虫草菌丝粉末加入20~30份水中混合均匀,得到预发酵液,再向预发酵液中加入0.03~0.1份发酵剂,搅拌均匀后密封,30~42℃避光发酵7~10天得混合浆液B。
3)将步骤2)得到的混合浆液B在离心机中以3000~4000rpm离心5~8min,取上清液,将上清液在100~110℃、300~400MPa下灭菌10~15min得到灭菌后的上清液,即为功能发酵液。
所述金虫草菌丝粉末的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
按照质量份计,将2~3份金虫草母种接种到40~60份液体培养基上,在温度为25~30℃下培养1~2d,进行菌种的活化,得到活化菌液,然后将活化后的菌种放到摇床上,维持温度为20~30℃,在150~200r/min的条件下震荡3~5d,生长出金虫草菌丝球,将金虫草菌丝球与液体培养基分离,并用水冲洗干净,将洗净的金虫草菌丝球放在-35~-30℃下冷冻干燥8~10h,得到冷冻干燥后的金虫草菌丝球,再将冷冻干燥后的金虫草菌丝球研碎,所得粉末过300~400目筛,得金虫草菌丝粉末。
所述液体培养基按质量份计,由5~8份豆粕饼、12~15份葡萄糖、2.5~5份蛋白胨、0.1~0.3份硫酸镁和70份水组成。
发酵过程中产生大量的有机酸,使得功能发酵液pH降低,加入金虫草菌丝球共同发酵,能够溶出更多的虫草素、虫草酸、虫草多糖和超氧岐化酶(SOD),虫草素具有抗炎作用,虫草酸可以特异性清除基体产生的自由基,虫草多糖具有抗衰老作用,可以改善皮肤状态,增强皮肤细胞的免疫功能,还可以促进功能发酵液中美白活性成分的吸收,超氧岐化酶以自由基为底物,可以清除人体代谢产生的自由基,避免细胞受到氧化、老化和破坏,对于人体活性氧的代谢具有维护平衡的作用。
优选地,所述液体培养基按质量份计,由5~8份豆粕饼、0.3~0.5份纤维素酶、0.1~0.5份小肽螯合盐或改性小肽螯合盐、12~15份葡萄糖、2.5~5份蛋白胨、0.1~0.3份硫酸镁和70份水组成。
所述小肽螯合盐的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
(1)缓冲液的配制:将0.2mol/L的磷酸二氢钠和0.2mol/L磷酸氢二钠按照体积比(1~3):(2~4)混合得到缓冲液;
(2)将羊毛按照浴比(1~3)g:(5~8)mL加入步骤1)所述的缓冲液中,在30~40℃下,在100~200r/min的转速下搅拌10~15min,得到混合液A,按照质量份计,在40~60份混合液A中加入0.4~0.6份角蛋白酶和0.6~0.8份碱性蛋白酶,得到混合液B,将混合液B放在摇床上,维持温度为50~60℃、转速150~200r/min的条件下酶解6~10h,酶解结束后在100~120℃灭酶30~40min,得到酶解液,将酶解液在-35~-30℃冷冻干燥8~10h,得到干肽粉;
(3)按照质量份计,将3~5份步骤(2)所得干肽粉、0.1~0.3份硫酸铜、0.3~0.5份硫酸亚铁和0.1~0.3份硫酸锰加入到10~12份水中,在40~60℃、200~300r/min下反应30~50min,得到混合液C,将混合液在-35~-30℃冷冻干燥8~10h,得到小肽螯合盐。
羊毛纤维酶解得到的小肽化合物,具有自由巯基、氨基和羧基多种活性基团,可以以多种配位模式与铜离子、亚铁离子和锰离子配位,进而合成小肽螯合盐,将小肽螯合盐加入金虫草菌丝的培养基中,补充金虫草菌丝合成虫草酸、SOD必需的铜、铁、锰元素,小肽螯合盐促进金虫草菌丝对金属元素的吸收,为合成SOD提供了有效物质基础,大大提高了金虫草菌丝中SOD的含量,得到Cu-SOD、Fe-SOD和Mn-SOD多种不同金属辅基的超氧岐化酶,增强美白护肤的效果。
优选地,所述改性小肽螯合盐的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
(1)缓冲液的配制:将0.2mol/L的磷酸二氢钠和0.2mol/L磷酸氢二钠按照体积比(1~3):(2~4)混合得到缓冲液;
(2)将羊毛按照浴比(1~3)g:(5~8)mL加入步骤1)所述的缓冲液中,在30~40℃下,在100~200r/min的转速下搅拌10~15min,得到混合液A,按照质量份计,在40~60份混合液A中加入0.4~0.6份角蛋白酶和0.6~0.8份碱性蛋白酶,得到混合液B,将混合液B放在摇床上,维持温度为50~60℃、转速150~200r/min的条件下酶解6~10h,酶解结束后在100~120℃灭酶30~40min,得到酶解液,将酶解液在-35~-30℃冷冻干燥8~10h,得到干肽粉;
(3)按照质量份计,将3~5份步骤(2)所得干肽粉、0.1~0.3份硫酸铜、0.3~0.5份硫酸亚铁和0.1~0.3份硫酸锰加入到10~12份水中,在40~60℃、200~300r/min下反应30~50min,得到混合液C,将混合液在-35~-30℃冷冻干燥8~10h,得到小肽螯合盐;
(4)按照质量份计,将3~4份小肽螯合盐、0.1~0.3份2-羟基乙胺、0.05~1份醋酸铈加入10~15份水中,在200~300W、20~25kHz的功率和频率下超声分散30min,得到混合液D,将混合液在-35~-30℃冷冻干燥8~10h,得到改性小肽螯合盐。
2-羟基乙胺可以和小肽螯合盐通过氢键和肽键作用结合,再进一步螯合醋酸铈,得到改性小肽螯合盐,在菌丝培养前期,2-羟基乙胺可以促进细胞壁组分磷脂乙醇胺的合成,从而提高菌丝增殖速率;醋酸铈能够促进菌丝增殖,提高菌丝细胞膜与细胞壁分解与合成所需的酶活性。同时避免了直接加入醋酸铈浓度过高,造成菌株放缓和死亡。
上述补水美白化妆品的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
S1:按照质量份计,将3~5份保湿剂和10~15份功能发酵液混合搅拌均匀,加热至75~85℃反应10~15min,得到混合物Ⅰ;
S2:按照质量份计,将0.5~1.5份乳化剂、0.5~1份增稠剂加入50~70份水中搅拌均匀,加热至70~80℃停止加热,得到混合物Ⅱ,自然冷却至35~45℃,加入上述混合物Ⅰ搅拌均匀,冷却至温度为25~30℃时,停止搅拌,出料即得补水美白化妆品。
本发明的有益效果:本发明制备的补水美白化妆品具有很好的补水、美白、抗氧化效果,温和不刺激。其中的活性组分之一功能发酵液,不仅富含果胶、黏多糖等强保水物质,使化妆品配方中的营养物质持续作用于肌肤,让肌肤滑嫩,而且在制备中加入了金虫草菌丝粉末共同发酵,使功能发酵液富含虫草素、虫草酸、虫草多糖和超氧岐化酶等,虫草素具有抗菌作用,虫草酸可以特异性清除基体产生的自由基,虫草多糖具有抗衰老作用,可以改善皮肤状态,增强皮肤细胞的免疫功能,此外金虫草菌丝培养基中加入的小肽螯合盐或改性小肽螯合盐,进一步提高超氧岐化酶等积累,活性更高。
具体实施方式
部分原料如下:
聚甘油-10油酸酯,CAS号:9007-48-1,含量≥99%,广东高良科技有限公司。
黄原胶,货号:001,含量≥85%,河南初微生物科技有限公司。
仙人掌,拉丁属名:Opuntia stricta(Haw.)Haw.var.dillenii(Ker-Gawl.)Benson。
黄秋葵嫩果,黄秋葵(拉丁属名:Abelmoschus esculentus)的果实。
芦荟,拉丁属名:Aloe vera Berg。
金虫草母种,Cordyceps militaris,编号:CICC 14013,购买自中国工业微生物菌种保藏管理中心。
德式乳杆菌,Lactobacillus delbrueckii subsp.bulgaricus,编号:CICC 6045,购买自中国工业微生物菌种保藏管理中心。
异常汉逊酵母,Hansenula anomala,编号CICC1295,购买自中国工业微生物菌种保藏管理中心。
羊毛,货号:03,长度:50mm,购买自河北霖沃绒毛制品有限公司。
角蛋白酶,货号:9014011,酶活力:20万u/g,购买自青岛海维森生物科技有限公司。
碱性蛋白酶,货号:FDG-2202,酶活力:20万u/g,购买自沧州夏盛酶生物技术有限公司。
对比例1
补水美白化妆品的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
S1:按照质量份计,将3份保湿剂和10份水混合搅拌均匀,加热至85℃,并在85℃下反应10min,得到混合物Ⅰ;
S2:按照质量份计,将1份乳化剂、0.5份增稠剂加入50份水中,加热至80℃后停止加热,得到混合物Ⅱ,待温度降至45℃,加入上述混合物Ⅰ搅拌均匀,冷却至温度至30℃时,停止搅拌,出料即得补水美白化妆品。
所述保湿剂为D-泛醇。
所述乳化剂为聚甘油-10油酸酯。
所述增稠剂为黄原胶。
实施例1
补水美白化妆品的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
S1:按照质量份计,将3份保湿剂和10份功能发酵液混合搅拌均匀,加热至85℃,在85℃下保温10min,得到混合物Ⅰ;
S2:按照质量份计,将1份乳化剂、0.5份增稠剂加入50份水中,加热至80℃停止加热,得到混合物Ⅱ,自然冷却,待温度降至45℃,加入上述混合物Ⅰ搅拌均匀,冷却至温度为30℃时,停止搅拌,出料即得补水美白化妆品。
所述保湿剂为D-泛醇。
所述乳化剂为聚甘油-10油酸酯。
所述增稠剂为黄原胶。
所述功能发酵液的制备,包括以下步骤:
1)挑选无机械损伤的仙人掌嫩叶、黄秋葵嫩果、芦荟叶,将仙人掌嫩叶去刺去除表皮、芦荟叶去除表皮、黄秋葵嫩果去除果蒂,均切为5g的小块,将仙人掌块、黄秋葵嫩果块和芦荟块按照质量比为5:4:1配伍后加入破壁机中,在2000W功率下破壁5min,得到发酵基体;
2)按照质量份计,将10份步骤1)所得发酵基体加入20份水中混合均匀,得到预发酵液,再向预发酵液中加入0.05份发酵剂,搅拌均匀后密封,30℃避光发酵10天得混合浆液B;
3)将步骤2)得到的混合浆液B在离心机中以3000rpm离心5min,取上清液,将上清液在110℃、400MPa下灭菌15min得到灭菌后的上清液,即为功能发酵液。
所述发酵剂为德式乳杆菌。
实施例2
补水美白化妆品的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
S1:按照质量份计,将3份保湿剂和10份功能发酵液混合均匀,搅拌,加热至85℃反应10min,得到混合物Ⅰ;
S2:按照质量份计,将1份乳化剂、0.5份增稠剂加入50份水中搅拌均匀,加热至80℃停止加热,得到混合物Ⅱ,自然冷却至45℃,加入上述混合物Ⅰ搅拌均匀,冷却至温度为30℃时,停止搅拌,出料即得补水美白化妆品。
所述保湿剂为D-泛醇。
所述乳化剂为聚甘油-10油酸酯。
所述增稠剂为黄原胶。
所述功能发酵液的制备,包括以下步骤:
1)挑选无机械损伤的仙人掌嫩叶、黄秋葵嫩果、芦荟叶,将仙人掌嫩叶去刺去除表皮、芦荟叶去除表皮、黄秋葵嫩果去除果蒂,均切为5g的小块,将仙人掌块、黄秋葵嫩果块和芦荟块按照质量比为5:4:1配伍后加入破壁机中,在2000W功率下破壁5min,得到发酵基体;
2)按照质量份计,将10份步骤1)所得发酵基体加入20份水中混合均匀,得到预发酵液,再向预发酵液中加入0.05份发酵剂,搅拌均匀后密封,30℃避光发酵10天得混合浆液B;
3)将步骤2)得到的混合浆液B在离心机中以3000rpm离心5min,取上清液,将上清液在110℃、400MPa下灭菌15min得到灭菌后的上清液,即为功能发酵液。
所述发酵剂为异常汉逊酵母。
实施例3
补水美白化妆品的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
S1:按照质量份计,将3份保湿剂和10份功能发酵液混合搅拌均匀,加热至85℃反应10min,得到混合物Ⅰ;
S2:按照质量份计,将1份乳化剂、0.5份增稠剂加入50份水中搅拌均匀,加热至80℃后停止加热,得到混合物Ⅱ,自然冷却,待温度降至45℃,加入上述混合物Ⅰ搅拌均匀,冷却至温度为30℃时,停止搅拌,出料即得补水美白化妆品。
所述保湿剂为D-泛醇。
所述乳化剂为聚甘油-10油酸酯。
所述增稠剂为黄原胶。
所述功能发酵液的制备,包括以下步骤:
1)挑选无机械损伤的仙人掌嫩叶、黄秋葵嫩果、芦荟叶,将仙人掌嫩叶去刺去除表皮、芦荟叶去除表皮、黄秋葵嫩果去除果蒂,均切为5g的小块,将仙人掌块、黄秋葵嫩果块和芦荟块按照质量比为5:4:1配伍后加入破壁机中,在2000W功率下破壁5min,得到发酵基体;
2)按照质量份计,将10份步骤1)所得发酵基体加入20份水中混合均匀,得到预发酵液,再向预发酵液中加入0.05份发酵剂,搅拌均匀后密封,30℃避光发酵10天得混合浆液B;
3)将步骤2)得到的发酵后的混合浆液B在离心机中以3000rpm离心5min,取上清液,将上清液在110℃、400MPa下灭菌15min得到灭菌后的上清液,即为功能发酵液。
所述发酵剂由德式乳杆菌和异常汉逊酵母按照质量比1:1.5混合而成。
实施例4
补水美白化妆品的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
S1:按照质量份计,将3份保湿剂和10份功能发酵液混合均匀加热至85℃反应10min,得到混合物Ⅰ;
S2:按照质量份计,将1份乳化剂、0.5份增稠剂加入50份水中搅拌均匀,加热至80℃后停止加热,得到混合物Ⅱ,自然冷却至45℃,加入上述混合物Ⅰ搅拌均匀,冷却至温度至30℃时,停止搅拌,出料即得补水美白化妆品。
所述保湿剂为D-泛醇。
所述乳化剂为聚甘油-10油酸酯。
所述增稠剂为黄原胶。
所述功能发酵液的制备,包括以下步骤:
1)挑选无机械损伤的仙人掌嫩叶、黄秋葵嫩果、芦荟叶,将仙人掌嫩叶去刺去除表皮、芦荟叶去除表皮、黄秋葵嫩果去除果蒂,均切为5g的小块,将仙人掌块、黄秋葵嫩果块和芦荟块按照质量比为5:4:1配伍后加入破壁机中,在2000W功率下破壁5min,得到发酵基体;
2)按照质量份计,将10份步骤1)所得发酵基体、0.5份金虫草菌丝粉加入20份水中混合均匀,得到预发酵液,再向预发酵液中加入0.05份发酵剂,搅拌均匀后密封,30℃避光发酵10天得混合浆液B;
3)将步骤2)得到的发酵后的混合浆液B在离心机中以3000rpm离心5min,取得上清液,将上清液在110℃、400MPa下灭菌15min得到灭菌后的上清液,即为功能发酵液。
所述金虫草菌丝粉末的制备方法,包括以下步骤:按照质量份计,将2份金虫草母种接种到50份液体培养基上,在温度为26℃下培养2d,进行菌种的活化,得到活化菌液,然后将活化后的菌种放到摇床上,维持温度为30℃,在200r/min的条件下震荡3d,生长出金虫草菌丝球,将金虫草菌丝球与液体培养基分离,并用水冲洗干净,将洗净的金虫草菌丝球放在-35℃下冷冻干燥10h,得到冷冻干燥后的金虫草菌丝球,再将冷冻干燥后的金虫草菌丝球研碎,所得粉末过400目筛,得金虫草菌丝粉末。
所述发酵剂由德式乳杆菌和异常汉逊酵母按照质量比1:1.5混合而成。
所述液体培养基按质量份计,由5份豆粕饼、12份葡萄糖、2.5份蛋白胨、0.3份硫酸镁和70份水组成。
实施例5
一种补水美白化妆品的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
S1:按照质量份计,将3份保湿剂和10份功能发酵液混合搅拌均匀,加热至85℃反应10min,得到混合物Ⅰ;
S2:按照质量份计,将1份乳化剂、0.5份增稠剂加入50份水中搅拌均匀,加热至80℃后停止加热,得到混合物Ⅱ,自然冷却至45℃,再加入上述混合物Ⅰ搅拌均匀,冷却至温度为30℃时,停止搅拌,出料即得补水美白化妆品。
所述保湿剂为D-泛醇。
所述乳化剂为聚甘油-10油酸酯。
所述增稠剂为黄原胶。
所述功能发酵液的制备,包括以下步骤:
1)挑选无机械损伤的仙人掌嫩叶、黄秋葵嫩果、芦荟叶,将仙人掌嫩叶去刺去除表皮、芦荟叶去除表皮、黄秋葵嫩果去除果蒂,均切为5g的小块,将仙人掌块、黄秋葵嫩果块和芦荟块按照质量比为5:4:1配伍后加入破壁机中,在2000W功率下破壁5min,得到发酵基体;
2)按照质量份计,将10份步骤1)所得发酵基体、0.5份金虫草菌丝粉加入20份水中混合均匀,得到预发酵液,再向预发酵液中加入0.05份发酵剂,搅拌均匀后密封,30℃避光发酵10天得混合浆液B;
3)将步骤2)得到的混合浆液B在离心机中以3000rpm离心5min,取上清液,将上清液在110℃、400MPa下灭菌15min,得到灭菌后的上清液,即为功能发酵液。
所述金虫草菌丝粉末的制备方法,包括以下步骤:按照质量份计,将2份金虫草母种接种到50份液体培养基上,在温度为26℃下培养2d进行菌种的活化,得到活化菌液,然后将活化后的菌种放到摇床上,维持温度为30℃、在200r/min的条件下震荡3d,生长出金虫草菌丝球,将金虫草菌丝球与液体培养基分离,并用水冲洗干净,将洗净的金虫草菌丝球放在-35℃下冷冻干燥10h,得到冷冻干燥后的金虫草菌丝球用研钵研碎过400目筛,得金虫草菌丝粉末。
所述发酵剂由德式乳杆菌和异常汉逊酵母按照质量比1:1.5混合而成。
所述液体培养基按质量份计:由5份豆粕饼、0.5份小肽螯合盐、12份葡萄糖、2.5份蛋白胨、0.3份硫酸镁和70份水组成。
所述小肽螯合盐的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
(1)缓冲液的配制:将0.2mol/L的磷酸二氢钠和0.2mol/L磷酸氢二钠按照体积比1:1混合,得到缓冲液;
(2)将羊毛按照浴比1g:5mL加入步骤(1)所述的缓冲液中,在40℃下,在100r/min的转速下搅拌15min,得到混合液A;按照质量份计,在50份混合液A中加入0.4份角蛋白酶和0.6份碱性蛋白酶,得到混合液B,将混合液B放在摇床上,维持温度为55℃、转速150r/min的条件下酶解8h,酶解结束后在100℃灭酶30min,得到酶解液,将酶解液在-35℃冷冻干燥10h,得到干肽粉;
(3)按照质量份计,将3份步骤(2)所得干肽粉、0.3份硫酸铜、0.5份硫酸亚铁和0.3份硫酸锰加入到10份水中,在50℃、200r/min下反应30min,得到混合液C,将混合液在-35℃冷冻干燥10h,得到小肽螯合盐。
实施例6
一种补水美白化妆品的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
S1:按照质量份计,将3份保湿剂和10份功能发酵液混合搅拌均匀,加热至85℃反应10min,得到混合物Ⅰ;
S2:按照质量份计,将1份乳化剂、0.5份增稠剂加入50份水中搅拌均匀,加热至80℃后停止加热,得到混合物Ⅱ,自然冷却至45℃,再加入上述混合物Ⅰ搅拌均匀,冷却至温度为30℃时,停止搅拌,出料即得补水美白化妆品。
所述保湿剂为D-泛醇。
所述乳化剂为聚甘油-10油酸酯。
所述增稠剂为黄原胶。
所述功能发酵液的制备,包括以下步骤:
1)挑选无机械损伤的仙人掌嫩叶、黄秋葵嫩果、芦荟叶,将仙人掌嫩叶去刺去除表皮、芦荟叶去除表皮、黄秋葵嫩果去除果蒂,均切为5g的小块,将仙人掌块、黄秋葵嫩果块和芦荟块按照质量比为5:4:1配伍后加入破壁机中,在2000W功率下破壁5min,得到发酵基体;
2)按照质量份计,将10份步骤1)所得发酵基体、0.5份金虫草菌丝粉末加入20份水中混合均匀,得到预发酵液,再向预发酵液中加入0.05份发酵剂,搅拌均匀后密封,30℃避光发酵10天得混合浆液B;
3)将步骤2)得到的混合浆液B在离心机中以3000rpm离心5min,取上清液,将上清液在110℃、400MPa下灭菌15min,得到灭菌后的上清液,即为功能发酵液。
所述金虫草菌丝粉末的制备方法,包括以下步骤:按照质量份计,将2份金虫草母种接种到50份液体培养基上,在温度为26℃下培养2d进行菌种的活化,得到活化菌液,然后将活化后的菌种放到摇床上,维持温度为30℃、在200r/min的条件下震荡3d,生长出金虫草菌丝球,将金虫草菌丝球与液体培养基分离,并用水冲洗干净,将洗净的金虫草菌丝球放在-35℃下冷冻干燥10h,得到冷冻干燥后的金虫草菌丝球研碎,所得粉末过400目筛,得金虫草菌丝粉末。
所述发酵剂由德式乳杆菌和异常汉逊酵母按照质量比1:1.5混合而成。
所述液体培养基按质量份计:由5份豆粕饼、0.5份改性小肽螯合盐、12份葡萄糖、2.5份蛋白胨、0.3份硫酸镁和70份水组成。
所述改性小肽螯合盐的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
(1)缓冲液的配制:将0.2mol/L的磷酸二氢钠和0.2mol/L磷酸氢二钠按照体积比1:1混合,得到缓冲液;
(2)将羊毛按照浴比1g:5mL加入步骤(1)所述的缓冲液中,在40℃下,在100r/min的转速下搅拌15min,得到混合液A;按照质量份计,在50份混合液A中加入0.4份角蛋白酶和0.6份碱性蛋白酶,得到混合液B,将混合液B放在摇床上,维持温度为55℃、转速150r/min的条件下酶解8h,酶解结束后在100℃灭酶30min,得到酶解液,将酶解液在-35℃冷冻干燥10h,得到干肽粉;
(3)按照质量份计,将3份步骤(2)所得干肽粉、0.3份硫酸铜、0.5份硫酸亚铁和0.3份硫酸锰加入到10份水中,在50℃、200r/min下反应30min,得到混合液C,将混合液在-35℃冷冻干燥10h,得到小肽螯合盐;
(4)按照质量份计,将3份小肽螯合盐、0.1份2-羟基乙胺、0.05份醋酸铈加入10份水中,在200W、25kHz的功率和频率下超声分散30min,得到混合液D,将混合液D在-35℃冷冻干燥10h,得到改性小肽螯合盐。
测试例1
抗氧化能力测试:将1mL实施例和对比例中的补水美白化妆品加水稀释至10mL,具体测试指标有:超氧自由基清除率、羟自由基清除率。
DPPH自由基清除率:配制0.04mg/mL的1,1-二苯基-2-三硝基苯肼溶液(DPPH),溶剂为无水乙醇;将2mL实施例和对比例中制备的补水美白化妆品样品的稀释液和2mL无水乙醇分别加入到2mLDPPH溶液中,室温反应30min,无水乙醇作为空白对照,分别测试样品和对照组在517nm处的吸光度值,根据公式1计算DPPH自由基清除率。
公式1:DPPH自由基清除率=1-(精华液样品组/空白对照组)×100%。
羟自由基清除率:向5mL 3mmol/L的水杨酸醇溶液中加入2mL3mmol/L的硫酸铁溶液,再加入1mL实施例和对比例中制备的补水美白化妆品样品的稀释液,最后加入1mL3mmol/L的过氧化氢溶液,37℃下水浴加热15min,测试样品在510nm处的吸光度值。将上述步骤中1mL实施例1制备的补水美白化妆品样品换成1mL蒸馏水为空白对照,重复上述步骤。根据公式2计算羟自由基清除率。
公式2:羟自由基清除率=1-(补水美白化妆品样品组吸光度/空白对照组吸光度)×100%
总还原能力:配制0.2mol/L的PBS,将1mL实施例和对比例中制备的补水美白化妆品样品分别加入到2.5mLPBS中,再加入2.5mL质量分数为1%铁氰化钾溶液,混匀后50℃反应20min,再加入2.5mL质量分数为10%三氯乙酸终止反应,5000rpm离心10min,上清液中加入0.5mL氯化铁溶液,测试在700nm处的吸光度值。
表1补水美白化妆品抗氧化测试
与对比例1相比,实施例1中添加了功能发酵液,发酵剂为德式乳杆菌,功能发酵液中含有的含有多种维生素,增强人体表皮细胞SOD活力和清除活性氧自由基的能力,乳酸还可以刺激胶原蛋白生成并帮助减少黑色素生成;实施例2中添加了功能发酵液,发酵剂为异常汉逊酵母,能够溶出更多的活性成分,并促进这些活性成分进一步穿透皮肤角质层进入肌低,使皮肤从根本上变白;实施例3中,发酵剂德式乳杆菌和异常汉逊酵母协同作用,增强皮肤的抗氧化功能;实施例4中功能发酵液中还加入了金虫草菌丝粉末一起发酵,功能发酵液中含有较多虫草酸、超氧岐化酶,虫草酸可以特异性清除基体产生的自由基,超氧岐化酶以自由基为底物,可以清除人体代谢产生的自由基,避免细胞受到氧化、老化和破坏,对于人体活性氧的代谢具有维护平衡的作用;实施例5中金虫草菌丝粉末的培养基中添加了小肽螯合盐,提高了菌丝产量,补充金虫草菌丝转化过程中转化虫草酸、SOD必需的铜、铁、锰元素,得到Cu-SOD、Fe-SOD和Mn-SOD多种不同金属辅基的超氧岐化酶。
测试例2
补水保湿效果测试:邀请30-40岁的女性为受试者,妊娠期或哺乳期妇女除外,受试者一个月内未使用激素类药物,将受试者随机分为7组,每组10人。
保湿测试参考QB/T 4256-2011《化妆品保湿功效评价指南》,取1mL实施例和对比例中的补水美白化妆品,均匀涂抹在受试者手背区,通过电容法皮肤水分测试仪测试受试者在使用精华液前和涂抹3h后的皮肤含水量,测试结果取10人的皮肤含水量的平均值,测试环境维持在25℃和40%的相对湿度环境中。
表2补水美白化妆品补水保湿效果测试
美白效果测试:女性受试者每天取用2mL实施例和对比例中的补水美白化妆品均匀涂于面部,坚持使用30天,使用MX18的皮肤黑色素和血红素测试仪检测各组志愿者的皮肤黑色素含量MI值。其中,MI值测量数值越高,说明黑色素含量越高。
表3补水美白化妆品美白效果测试
可以看出,与对比例1相比,实施例1中添加了功能发酵液,发酵剂为德式乳杆菌,所得功能发酵液中含有的胞外多糖和粘多糖具有持水、保湿的作用,还可以刺激胶原蛋白生成并帮助减少黑色素生成;实施例2中的发酵剂为异常汉逊酵母,发酵产生的乙醇可以溶出更多的活性成分,促进精华乳中的活性成分能够穿透角质层进入肌底,提高保湿和美白效果;实施例3中德式乳杆菌和异常汉逊酵母协同发酵,可以促进更多活性成分发挥美白护肤功效,同时控制皮肤的炎症,避免炎症释放的一些刺激黑素细胞活跃的物质,间接抑制黑色素的产生,此外发酵乳中含有有机酸,可以和乙醇产生酯化反应,防止酒精过多造成活性物质失活;实施例4中功能发酵液中还添加了金虫草菌丝粉末一起发酵,功能发酵液中的有机酸、酒精可以溶出更多的虫草酸、虫草多糖和超氧岐化酶,虫草酸能够清除皮肤自由基,具有抗氧化、促进新陈代谢的功能;实施例5中金虫草菌丝粉末的培养基中添加了小肽螯合盐,补充金虫草菌丝转化过程中转化虫草酸、SOD必需的铜、铁、锰元素,提高了金虫草菌丝中的超氧岐化酶含量,增强美白功效;实施例6中金虫草菌丝粉末的培养基中添加了改性小肽螯合盐,通过将2-羟基乙胺和醋酸铈改性,增加了菌丝的产率和有效成分的含量。
测试例3
刺激性测试:测试标准参考SN/T 4577-2016《化妆品皮肤刺激性检测重建人体表皮模型体外检测方法》。
表4补水美白化妆品刺激性测试
与对比例1相比,实施例1中添加了功能发酵液,发酵剂为德式乳杆菌,促进了细胞的新陈代谢,改善机体代谢,保护皮肤细胞免受损伤;实施例2中发酵剂为异常汉逊酵母,能够促进精华乳中的活性成分进入细胞,提高细胞活性;实施例3中德式乳杆菌和异常汉逊酵母共同作用,提高了有效控制炎症,促进细胞对精华乳中营养物质的吸收;实施例4中功能发酵液中添加了金虫草菌丝粉末一起发酵,功能发酵液中的有机酸、酒精可以溶出更多的虫草素、虫草素具有抗炎功效,能够增强细胞免疫;实施例5中金虫草菌丝粉末的培养基中添加了小肽螯合盐,补充金虫草菌丝有效成分所必需的金属微量元素;实施例6金虫草菌丝粉末的培养基中添加了改性小肽螯合盐,促进金虫草菌丝粉末有效活性物质含量的提高,进一步提高对皮肤细胞的养护功能。
Claims (7)
1.金虫草菌丝粉末,其特征在于,由以下方法制备而成:
按照质量份计,将2~3份金虫草母种接种到40~60份液体培养基上,在温度为25~30℃下培养1~2d,进行菌种的活化,得到活化菌液,然后将活化后的菌种放到摇床上,维持温度为20~30℃,在150~200r/min的条件下震荡3~5d,生长出金虫草菌丝球,将金虫草菌丝球与液体培养基分离,并用水冲洗干净,将洗净的金虫草菌丝球放在-35~-30℃下冷冻干燥8~10h,得到冷冻干燥后的金虫草菌丝球,再将冷冻干燥后的金虫草菌丝球研碎,所得粉末过300~400目筛,得所述金虫草菌丝粉末;
所述液体培养基按质量份计:由5~8份豆粕饼、0.1~0.5份小肽螯合盐或改性小肽螯合盐、12~15份葡萄糖、2.5~5份蛋白胨、0.1~0.3份硫酸镁和70份水组成。
2.如权利要求1所述的金虫草菌丝粉末,其特征在于,所述小肽螯合盐的制备方法为:
(1)缓冲液的配制:将0.2mol/L的磷酸二氢钠和0.2mol/L磷酸氢二钠按照体积比(1~3):(2~4)混合得到缓冲液;
(2)将羊毛按照浴比(1~3)g:(5~8)mL加入步骤1)所述的缓冲液中,在30~40℃下,在100~200r/min的转速下搅拌10~15min,得到混合液A,按照质量份计,在40~60份混合液A中加入0.4~0.6份角蛋白酶和0.6~0.8份碱性蛋白酶,得到混合液B,将混合液B放在摇床上,维持温度为50~60℃、转速150~200r/min的条件下酶解6~10h,酶解结束后在100~120℃灭酶30~40min,得到酶解液,将酶解液在-35~-30℃冷冻干燥8~10h,得到干肽粉;
(3)按照质量份计,将3~5份步骤(2)所得干肽粉、0.1~0.3份硫酸铜、0.3~0.5份硫酸亚铁和0.1~0.3份硫酸锰加入到10~12份水中,在40~60℃、200~300r/min下反应30~50min,得到混合液C,将混合液在-35~-30℃干燥8~10h,得到小肽螯合盐。
3.如权利要求1所述的金虫草菌丝粉末,其特征在于,所述改性小肽螯合盐的制备方法为:
(1)缓冲液的配制:将0.2mol/L的磷酸二氢钠和0.2mol/L磷酸氢二钠按照体积比(1~3):(2~4)混合得到缓冲液;
(2)将羊毛按照浴比(1~3)g:(5~8)mL加入步骤1)所述的缓冲液中,在30~40℃下,在100~200r/min的转速下搅拌10~15min,得到混合液A,按照质量份计,在40~60份混合液A中加入0.4~0.6份角蛋白酶和0.6~0.8份碱性蛋白酶,得到混合液B,将混合液B放在摇床上,维持温度为50~60℃、转速150~200r/min的条件下酶解6~10h,酶解结束后在100~120℃灭酶30~40min,得到酶解液,将酶解液在-35~-30℃冷冻干燥8~10h,得到干肽粉;
(3)按照质量份计,将3~5份步骤(2)所得干肽粉、0.1~0.3份硫酸铜、0.3~0.5份硫酸亚铁和0.1~0.3份硫酸锰加入到10~12份水中,在40~60℃、200~300r/min下反应30~50min,得到混合液C,将混合液在-35~-30℃干燥8~10h,得到小肽螯合盐;
(4)按照质量份计,将3~4份小肽螯合盐、0.1~0.3份2-羟基乙胺、0.05~1份醋酸铈加入10~15份水中,在200~300W、20~25kHz的功率和频率下超声分散30~40min,得到混合液D,将混合液D在-35~-30℃冷冻干燥8~10h,得到改性小肽螯合盐。
4.功能发酵液,其特征在于,由以下方法制备而成:
1)挑选无机械损伤的仙人掌嫩叶、黄秋葵嫩果、芦荟叶,将仙人掌嫩叶去刺去除表皮、芦荟叶去除表皮、黄秋葵嫩果去除果蒂,均切为5~8g的小块,按照质量比为(5~8):(2~4):(1~3)配伍后加入破壁机中,在2000~2200W功率下破壁5~8min,得到发酵基体;
2)按照质量份计,将10~15份步骤1)所得发酵基体、0.5~1份权利要求1-3任一项所述的金虫草菌丝粉末加入20~30份水中,得到预发酵液,再向预发酵液中加入0.03~0.1份发酵剂,搅拌均匀后密封,30~42℃避光发酵7~10天得混合浆液B;
3)将步骤2)得到发酵后的混合浆液B在离心机中3000~4000rpm离心5~8min得上清液,将上清液在100~110℃、300~400MPa下灭菌10~15min得到灭菌后的上清液,得到所述功能发酵液。
5.如权利要求4所述的功能发酵液,其特征在于,所述发酵剂为德式乳杆菌和异常汉逊酵母中的一种或两种的混合物。
6.一种补水美白化妆品,其特征在于,按照质量份计,由以下原料组成:3~5份保湿剂、10~15份权利要求4或5所述的功能发酵液、0.5~1.5份乳化剂、0.5~1份增稠剂、50~70份水。
7.如权利要求6所述补水美白化妆品的制备方法,其特征在于,包括以下步骤:
S1:将保湿剂和功能发酵液混合搅拌均匀,加热至75~85℃反应10~15min,分散均匀,得到混合物Ⅰ;
S2:将乳化剂、增稠剂加入水中搅拌均匀,加热至70~80℃,得到混合物Ⅱ,自然冷却至35~45℃,加入上述混合物Ⅰ搅拌均匀,冷却至温度为25~30℃时,停止搅拌,出料,即得补水美白化妆品。
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