CN114796008A - Preparation method and application of supramolecular composition with whitening and moisturizing effects - Google Patents
Preparation method and application of supramolecular composition with whitening and moisturizing effects Download PDFInfo
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- CN114796008A CN114796008A CN202210615029.5A CN202210615029A CN114796008A CN 114796008 A CN114796008 A CN 114796008A CN 202210615029 A CN202210615029 A CN 202210615029A CN 114796008 A CN114796008 A CN 114796008A
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- Prior art keywords
- composition
- supramolecular
- skin
- water
- active ingredients
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- 230000002087 whitening effect Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 16
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 14
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- LBQIJVLKGVZRIW-UHFFFAOYSA-N glabridine Natural products C1OC2=C3C=CC(C)(C)OC3=CC=C2CC1C1=CC=C(O)C=C1O LBQIJVLKGVZRIW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 20
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/68—Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
- A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
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Abstract
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and discloses a preparation method and application of a supramolecular composition with whitening and moisturizing effects, wherein the preparation method of the supramolecular composition comprises the following steps: adding active ingredients and emulsifier into oil, heating to completely melt, and using as oil phase; then taking the stabilizer, the preservative and the water in the prescription amount to be dissolved completely to be used as a water phase, slowly adding the oil phase, stirring and homogenizing under high pressure to obtain the supermolecule composition. The supermolecule composition prepared by the invention can improve the retention of active ingredients in the skin and has multiple effects of water cream. The invention uses a small amount of surfactant to prepare the nano-scale product, has strong technical practicability, realizes multiple purposes in one bottle, refines macromolecules of the cream into micro-molecules, enhances the fluidity, is light moistening essence when contacting the skin, and turns the cream by light kneading. By the microcapsule packaging technology, the active ingredients immediately permeate into the muscle bottom, and the efficacy of skin nourishing and reviving in the external protection is exerted.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a supramolecular composition with whitening and moisturizing effects and an application method thereof.
Background
The term supramolecules was proposed as early as the mid-30 of the 20 th century, and the concept and terminology of supramolecular chemistry was proposed in 1973. The concept of supermolecule chemistry was first proposed by nobel chemical prize-taker in 1987, french scientist j.m.lehn, who pointed out that the supermolecule technology, which is based on covalent bond existing in the field of molecular chemistry and molecular assembly and intermolecular bond existing in the field of molecular chemistry, can be widely applied to raw material extraction, raw material encapsulation, dissolution and synthesis, and formula permeation-promoting technologies of cosmetics, to improve the transdermal absorption rate of active ingredients, the component purity of products, the action time of active ingredients, and to reduce the irritation property, etc.
The supramolecular nano-encapsulation technology is a technology for encapsulating active ingredients into a designed delivery vehicle so that the active ingredients can permeate into cells. The membrane structure of the nano material is very close to that of a cell membrane, and the nano material can wrap effective components and then introduce the effective components into cells to be slowly released in the cells, so that the long-acting and high-efficiency effect is realized. Typically, the skin care sequence is: cleansing-water-essence-emulsion-cream, but the skin care steps of people with neutral, dry, oily and the like are different or different due to different skin types. The four traditional main dosage forms of the skin care product are 'water, milk, cream and essence', which are associated with different dosage forms, and mainly depend on the proportion and the interaction relationship among a water phase component, an oil phase component and an emulsifier in the formula.
People prefer skin lotion because of its fluency and absorbability, and skin cream because of more moisturizing and moisture retention. The difference in the ratio of the parameters between the partial water and the frost is the greatest, i.e. the difficulty factor of the interconversion between them in a short time is the highest. To solve the problem, the invention applies the supermolecule wrapping technology to prepare a composition, the texture of the composition is smooth like water, the color of the composition is milky white like uniform milk, and the composition has a plurality of using methods. The essence water has the effects of moisturizing, efficiently moisturizing, bringing active ingredients contained in the essence water to the deep layer of the skin, bringing deep moisturizing effect to the skin, facilitating skin absorption, activating skin cells, enabling the skin to be glossy and endowing the skin with a moist feeling. Meanwhile, conditions are created for the absorption of other subsequent skin care products, and a channel is opened, so that the subsequent skin care products are more favorably absorbed by the skin. The skin care lotion is used as the lotion for moistening the skin, relieving the dry skin, maintaining the water-oil balance of the skin and the pH value of the skin, giving the most basic care to the skin in the using process, being beneficial to the better effect of the subsequent skin care steps and ensuring the skin to be nursed most properly; the cream has high water content, can effectively help the skin to achieve the effect of moisturizing and relieve the dry and water-deficient condition of the skin, is added with components such as grease and the like to lock the moisture and nutrients of the skin, and can cover the surface of the skin to form an oily protective film to effectively lock the moisture and nutrients. Particularly, in autumn and winter, the water loss on the face of people is accelerated, the face cream is needed to replenish water and moisturize the face, so that the skin is kept in a tender and soft state, and the stimulation of impurities and dust in the external environment to the skin can be prevented. Based on the above, the active ingredients with whitening effect are wrapped in the skin-care cream, so that the requirements of people with different skin types on moisturizing, whitening and the like can be well met.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above, the invention develops the supramolecular composition capable of meeting the requirements of moisturizing, moisturizing and whitening different skin types of people.
The invention provides a supramolecular composition with whitening and moisturizing effects, which is prepared from raw materials of an active ingredient, an oil phase, a water phase, an emulsifier, a stabilizer, a preservative, a pH regulator and a freeze-drying protective agent; the active ingredient is any one or more of glabridin, nonapeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, ceramide NP, glabridin, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, acetyl hexapeptide-8, dipeptide diaminobutyrylbenzyl amide diacetate, arginine/lysine polypeptide and ubiquinone; the oil phase is any one or more of jojoba oil, chingma chinensis seed oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dioctyl carbonate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, camellia seed oil, shea butter and the like; the emulsifier is one or more of polyglycerol-3-methylglucose distearate, polyglycerol ester (PGFE), polyglycerol mono-fatty acid ester, fatty acid polyglycerol ester, behenyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.
Wherein, the content of active ingredients in the supermolecule composition is 0.01-5.0%.
Wherein, the content of the oil phase in the supramolecular composition is 1.0-20.0%.
Wherein, the content of the emulsifier in the supramolecular composition is 1-10.0%.
Wherein, the content of the stabilizer in the supramolecular composition is 0.1-5.0%.
Wherein, the content of the preservative in the supramolecular composition is 0.1-5.0%.
Wherein, the stabilizer of the supermolecule composition comprises one or more of EDTA-2Na, sodium metabisulfite, vitamin C and vitamin E.
Wherein, the supermolecule composition contains more protein active ingredients, thereby particularly increasing trehalose as a freeze-drying protective agent and simultaneously increasing the moisturizing effect.
Wherein, the pH regulator of the supramolecular composition is any one or more of sodium hydroxide and citric acid.
The application also provides a preparation method of the supramolecular composition with whitening and moisturizing effects, which comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing components: preparing the following components in percentage by mass: 0.01-5% of active ingredients, 1-20% of oil phase, 1-10% of emulsifier, 0.1-5% of stabilizer, 0.1-5% of preservative and the balance of ultrapure water;
(2) preparing an organic phase: adding the active ingredients and the emulsifier into the oil phase according to the proportion, heating and stirring to fully dissolve the active ingredients and the emulsifier, and keeping the temperature at 20-150 ℃ to obtain an organic phase;
(3) preparing an aqueous phase: adding stabilizer, antiseptic and ultrapure water into a water phase pot according to the proportion, and keeping the temperature at 10-100 ℃;
(4) mixing: adding the organic phase in the step (2) into the aqueous phase in the step (3), fully and uniformly stirring, and carrying out high-speed shearing emulsification at the temperature of 20-80 ℃ and the high speed of 2000-10000rpm for 1-30 min;
(5) high-pressure homogenization: adding the emulsified primary emulsion in the step (4) into a high-pressure homogenizer or high-pressure micro-jet equipment, homogenizing for 2-15 times at the pressure of 200-1800bar and the temperature of 0-80 ℃, and cooling to room temperature to obtain the supramolecular composition;
the supramolecular composition has a particle size of 5-100nm, a potential of-40 mV to +40mV, and a pH of 4.0-10.0.
Further, the active ingredient is any one or more of glabridin, nonapeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, ceramide NP, glabridin, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, acetyl hexapeptide-8, dipeptide diaminobutyryl benzylamide diacetate, arginine/lysine polypeptide and ubiquinone.
Further, the stabilizer is any one or more of EDTA-2Na, sodium metabisulfite, vitamin C and vitamin E.
Further, the pH regulator is any one or more of sodium hydroxide and citric acid.
The application also provides the application of the supramolecular composition prepared by the method in the field of cosmetics.
The invention successfully prepares the supermolecule composition of the cosmetics on the premise of using a small amount of the surfactant, remarkably improves the transdermal absorption rate/skin retention of the conventional cosmetics, realizes multiple purposes by a hydrating cream technology, refines the macromolecules of the cream into micro-molecules, enhances the fluidity, is light moistening essence when contacting the skin, and turns the cream by light kneading. By the microcapsule packaging technology, the active ingredients immediately permeate into the muscle bottom, and the efficacy of skin nourishing and reviving in the external protection is exerted. In use, the composition presents a 'water-like refreshing, such as cream nourishing' magic skin feeling with high quality. The moisturizing cream has the advantages that the moisturizing cream is water-based, light and dizzy, nutrient components are quickly absorbed, the moisturizing cream is turned in several seconds, the moisturizing cream is soft, the toughness of the skin is doubled, the pH value is 4-9, and the normal pH value of the skin is 4.5-6.5, so that the moisturizing cream does not stimulate the skin, is milder, gives consideration to skin feel, has various nursing experiences brought by different formulations of water and cream, and can be used for daily moisturizing and moisturizing spray.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a graph of the results of the skin melanin MI test using the supramolecular composition glabridin.
Figure 2 supramolecular composition glabridin skin brightness L x test results plot.
Figure 3 graph of the skin color ITA ° test results of supramolecular composition glabridin.
Detailed Description
In order to make the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention more apparent, the present invention is further described in detail with reference to the following embodiments. It should be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are merely illustrative of the invention and are not intended to limit the invention.
The following describes the implementation of the present invention in detail with reference to specific embodiments.
Example 1
The preparation method of the supramolecular composition in the embodiment comprises the following steps:
in argon atmosphere, 0.1g of glabridin and 4g of polyglycerol-3-methylglucose distearate are dissolved in an oil phase of 0.5g of jojoba oil, 0.5g of chinaroot greenbrier seed oil and 3g of dioctyl carbonate, the formula amount of pentanediol, glycerol, trehalose, sodium oleate and water are weighed and dissolved to be used as a water phase, after the two phases are completely dissolved, the oil phase is slowly added into the water phase at 80 ℃ under the shearing condition, and then the mixture is homogenized at 600bar and 60 ℃ for 6 times under high pressure to obtain the supermolecule composition nano solution.
Particle size, potential, analysis: 0.1ml of supramolecular composition nano solution is added into 100ml of water for injection, and the average particle size and potential are measured by a Malvern particle size analyzer.
As a result: the prepared supermolecular composition nanometer solution has the average particle diameter of 95nm, the potential of-31.8 mV and the pH value of 6.07.
Example 2
The preparation method of the supramolecular composition in the embodiment comprises the following steps:
under argon atmosphere, 0.1g of glabridin, 0.02g of nonapeptide-1 and 4g of polyglycerol-3-methyl glucose distearate are dissolved in an oil phase of 3g of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 1g of hydrogenated polyisobutene and 3g of dioctyl carbonate, pentanediol, glycerol, trehalose, sodium oleate and water in the prescribed amount are weighed and dissolved to be used as a water phase, after the two phases are completely dissolved, the oil phase is slowly added into the water phase at 80 ℃ under the shearing condition, and then the mixture is homogenized for 6 times under high pressure at 600bar and 60 ℃ to obtain the supermolecule composition nano solution.
Particle size, potential, analysis: 0.1ml of supramolecular composition nano solution is added into 100ml of water for injection, and the average particle size and potential are measured by a Malvern particle size analyzer.
As a result: the prepared supermolecular composition nanometer solution has the average particle diameter of 90nm, the potential of-28.8 mV and the pH value of 6.13.
Example 3
The preparation method of the supramolecular composition in the embodiment comprises the following steps:
under argon atmosphere, 0.1g of glabridin, 0.05g of ubiquinone and 4g of polyglycerol-3-methylglucose distearate are dissolved in an oil phase of 3g of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 1g of hydrogenated polyisobutene and 3g of dioctyl carbonate, the formula amount of pentanediol, glycerol, trehalose, sodium oleate and water are weighed and dissolved to be used as a water phase, after the two phases are completely dissolved, the oil phase is slowly added into the water phase at 80 ℃ under the condition of shearing, and then the mixture is homogenized at 600bar and 60 ℃ for 6 times under high pressure to obtain the supermolecule composition nano solution.
Particle size, potential, analysis: 0.1ml of supramolecular composition nano solution is added into 100ml of water for injection, and the average particle size and potential are measured by a Malvern particle size analyzer.
As a result: the prepared supermolecular composition nanometer solution has the average particle diameter of 93nm, the potential of-32.2 mV and the pH value of 6.5.
Example 4
The preparation method of the supramolecular composition in the embodiment comprises the following steps:
under argon atmosphere, 0.1g of glabridin and 4g of polyglycerol-3-methyl glucose distearate are dissolved in 6g of camellia seed oil, 1g of glycerol glucoside is taken and added into a water phase, the formula amount of pentanediol, glycerol, trehalose, sodium oleate and water are weighed and dissolved to be used as the water phase, after the two phases are completely dissolved, an oil phase is slowly added into the water phase at 80 ℃ under the shearing condition, and then the mixture is homogenized at 600bar under high pressure for 6 times at 60 ℃ to obtain the supermolecule composition nano solution.
Particle size, potential, analysis: 0.1ml of supramolecular composition nano solution is added into 100ml of water for injection, and the average particle size and potential are measured by a Malvern particle size analyzer.
As a result: the prepared supermolecule composition nanometer solution has the average particle diameter of 98nm, the potential of-34.2 mV and the pH value of 5.75.
Example 5
The preparation method of the supramolecular composition in the embodiment comprises the following steps:
under argon atmosphere, 0.1g of glabridin and 4g of polyglycerol-3-methyl glucose distearate are dissolved in an oil phase of 3g of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 1g of hydrogenated polyisobutene and 3g of dioctyl carbonate, the formula amount of pentanediol, glycerol, trehalose, sodium oleate and water are weighed and dissolved to be used as a water phase, after the two phases are completely dissolved, the oil phase is slowly added into the water phase at 80 ℃ under the shearing condition, and then the mixture is homogenized at 600bar and 60 ℃ for 6 times under high pressure to obtain the supermolecule composition nano solution.
Particle size, potential, analysis: 0.1ml of supramolecular composition nano solution is added into 100ml of water for injection, and the average particle size and potential are measured by a Malvern particle size analyzer.
As a result: the prepared supermolecular composition liquid nanometer solution has the average particle size of 100nm, the potential of-35.3 mV and the pH value of 6.35.
Each of the supramolecular compositions prepared in examples 1-5 was separately tested for room temperature stability,
Heat resistance test and freeze-thaw test. The room temperature stability test refers to a heat resistance test that samples are stored for three months at room temperature of between 20 and 25 DEG C
I.e. the sample is preserved for three months at the temperature of 45 ℃, and the freeze-thaw test means that the sample is subjected to three times of cold and heat cycles at the temperature of-15 ℃/room temperature. As a result, these products were uniformly maintained in appearance without any exception after the above-mentioned tests, and were free from discoloration, delamination and the like. It is thus shown that the supramolecular compositions of the present invention are stable.
Comparative example 1 preparation of glabridin cream
According to the conventional cream preparation method, 1.0% glabridin, 3.0% stearic acid, 4.5% glyceryl monostearate, 5.0% cetostearyl alcohol and 6.0% polydimethylsiloxane are used as oil phases and melted in a water bath at 75 ℃; dissolving 10.0% glycerol, 5.0% propylene glycol, 0.3% triethanolamine and 65.2% purified water as water phase in 75 deg.C water bath; mixing the two phases under stirring, emulsifying, and cooling to obtain glabridin cream with content of 1.0%, which is used as control preparation in examples 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5.
The ITA degree test result of skin color of the supramolecular composition glabridin is as follows:
note: the GLA supramolecular composition is the supramolecular composition prepared in example 1, the inhibition effect of glabridin on tyrosinase is prominent in the whitening component, and the inhibition effect of nano-encapsulated GLA on tyrosinase is stronger than that of free GLA.
The effect of different mass concentrations of the whitening component on tyrosinase activity results are as follows:
note: the GLA supramolecular composition is the supramolecular composition prepared in example 1, and among the whitening components, glabridin has a significant effect of inhibiting tyrosinase in B16 cells, and has a stronger effect than free GLA.
The supermolecule composition prepared by the invention can improve the retention of active ingredients in the skin and has multiple effects of water cream. The invention uses a small amount of surfactant to prepare the nano-scale product, has strong technical practicability, realizes multiple purposes in one bottle, refines macromolecules of the cream into micro-molecules, enhances the fluidity, is light moistening essence when contacting the skin, and turns the cream by light kneading. By the microcapsule packaging technology, the active ingredients immediately permeate into the muscle bottom, and the efficacy of skin nourishing and reviving in the external protection is exerted.
The invention successfully prepares the supermolecule composition of the cosmetics on the premise of using a small amount of the surfactant, remarkably improves the transdermal absorption rate/skin retention of the conventional cosmetics, realizes multiple purposes by a hydrating cream technology, refines the macromolecules of the cream into micro-molecules, enhances the fluidity, is light moistening essence when contacting the skin, and turns the cream by light kneading. By the microcapsule packaging technology, the active ingredients immediately permeate into the muscle bottom, and the efficacy of skin nourishing and reviving in the external protection is exerted. In use, the composition presents a 'water-like refreshing, such as cream nourishing' magic skin feeling with high quality. The moisturizing cream has the advantages that the moisturizing cream is water-based, light and dizzy, nutrient components are quickly absorbed, the moisturizing cream is turned in several seconds, the moisturizing cream is soft, the toughness of the skin is doubled, the pH value is 4-9, and the normal pH value of the skin is 4.5-6.5, so that the moisturizing cream does not stimulate the skin, is milder, gives consideration to skin feel, has various nursing experiences brought by different formulations of water and cream, and can be used for daily moisturizing and moisturizing spray.
Finally, it should be noted that: the above examples are only intended to illustrate the technical solution of the present invention, but not to limit it; although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the foregoing embodiments, it will be understood by those skilled in the art; the technical solutions described in the foregoing embodiments may still be modified, or some or all of the technical features may be equivalently replaced; these modifications and substitutions do not cause the essence of the corresponding technical solution to depart from the scope of the technical solution of the embodiments of the present invention, and are intended to be covered by the claims and the specification of the present invention.
Claims (5)
1. A preparation method of a supramolecular composition with whitening and moisturizing effects is characterized by comprising the following steps:
(1) preparing components: preparing the following components in percentage by mass: 0.01-5% of active ingredients, 1-20% of oil phase, 1-10% of emulsifier, 0.1-5% of stabilizer, 0.1-5% of preservative and the balance of ultrapure water;
(2) preparing an organic phase: adding the active ingredients and the emulsifier into the oil phase according to the proportion, heating and stirring to fully dissolve the active ingredients and the emulsifier, and keeping the temperature at 20-150 ℃ to obtain an organic phase;
(3) preparing an aqueous phase: adding stabilizer, antiseptic and ultrapure water into a water phase pot according to the proportion, and keeping the temperature at 10-100 ℃;
(4) mixing: adding the organic phase in the step (2) into the aqueous phase in the step (3), fully and uniformly stirring, and carrying out high-speed shearing emulsification at the temperature of 20-80 ℃ and the high speed of 2000-10000rpm for 1-30 min;
(5) high-pressure homogenization: adding the emulsified primary emulsion in the step (4) into a high-pressure homogenizer or high-pressure micro-jet equipment, homogenizing for 2-15 times at the pressure of 200-1800bar and the temperature of 0-80 ℃, and cooling to room temperature to obtain the supramolecular composition;
the supramolecular composition has a particle size of 5-100nm, a potential of-40 mV to +40mV, and a pH of 4.0-10.0.
2. The method for preparing the supramolecular composition with whitening and moisturizing effects as claimed in claim 1, wherein the active ingredient is any one or more of glabridin, nonapeptide-1, palmitoyl tripeptide-8, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, ceramide NP, glabridin, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, acetyl hexapeptide-8, dipeptide diaminobutyrylbenzylamide diacetate, arginine/lysine polypeptide, and ubiquinone.
3. The method for preparing the supramolecular composition with whitening and moisturizing effects as claimed in claim 1, wherein the stabilizer is any one or more of EDTA-2Na, sodium metabisulfite, vitamin C and vitamin E.
4. The method for preparing the supramolecular composition with whitening and moisturizing effects as claimed in claim 1, wherein the pH adjusting agent is any one or more of sodium hydroxide and citric acid.
5. Use of the supramolecular compositions prepared in claims 1-4 in the cosmetic field.
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