CN115364000A - Cosmetic composition with soothing and repairing effects, freeze-dried mask and preparation method - Google Patents
Cosmetic composition with soothing and repairing effects, freeze-dried mask and preparation method Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN115364000A CN115364000A CN202211109768.3A CN202211109768A CN115364000A CN 115364000 A CN115364000 A CN 115364000A CN 202211109768 A CN202211109768 A CN 202211109768A CN 115364000 A CN115364000 A CN 115364000A
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- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- freeze
- cosmetic composition
- oil
- mask
- dried mask
- Prior art date
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- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 60
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- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0212—Face masks
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/004—Aftersun preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
- A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/805—Corresponding aspects not provided for by any of codes A61K2800/81 - A61K2800/95
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/84—Products or compounds obtained by lyophilisation, freeze-drying
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- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
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- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a composition with a soothing and repairing effect, a freeze-dried mask and a preparation method thereof, wherein the freeze-dried mask comprises effective amounts of avocado oil and olive oil unsaponifiables, so that the relative expression level of an IL-1 alpha gene can be effectively reduced. The freeze-dried mask with the effects of relieving and repairing, disclosed by the invention, has the water content of 2-15%, so that the storage of components with an easily-oxidized effect is facilitated, the efficacy of the components is ensured, and the components can be stored for a long time; in addition, the freeze-dried mask does not need to be added with a preservative, is mild in product, and has a remarkable improvement effect on the problems of skin sensitivity and redness caused by irritation, sunburn and the like through proper proportion matching.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a cosmetic composition, a freeze-dried mask and a preparation method thereof, in particular to the cosmetic composition with a soothing and repairing effect, the freeze-dried mask and the preparation method thereof.
Background
In recent years, as the mask is normalized, facial skin problems such as sensitivity, itching, redness, inflammation, acne and the like cause great troubles to a plurality of consumers. Indeed, the skin environment and diet are the main factors responsible for skin sensitivity, and safety is the first consideration for sensitive muscle consumers when selecting cosmetics, but they often do not have the possibility of getting ill because of the concern about allergy caused by certain materials in the formulation, such as preservatives and the like.
The prior art has also been exploring and developing cosmetic compositions with soothing effects. For example:
chinese patent 201810331060.X discloses an essential oil for preventing and repairing skin barrier damage, which includes the following components: 1.0-50% of camellia seed oil, 2.0-20% of vegetable oil, 0.5-5% of a soothing agent, 0.05-5% of a stabilizing agent and the balance of synthetic oil; wherein the vegetable oil is selected from wheat germ oil, sea buckthorn fruit oil, olive fruit oil, almond oil, prinsepia utilis royle oil, sweet almond oil, bitter orange flower oil, sweet orange peel oil, jojoba oil, maoren fruit oil, avocado oil, wild soybean oil and macadamia nut oil, the soothing agent is selected from defens i, chamomile flower extract, calendula extract, bisabolol, asiaticoside, camara and licorice flavonoids, the stabilizing agent is selected from tocopheryl acetate, rosemary extract, BHT, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethyl butyl phenol and coenzyme Q10. The essential oil of the patent has good anti-allergy effect on sensitive skin with abnormal skin barrier function.
Chinese patent application 201811639940.X discloses a multi-effect infant care cream, which contains 10-25% of an emollient, 2-7% of an emulsifier, 8-15% of a humectant, 0.1-2% of a suspending agent, 0.01-5% of an auxiliary skin conditioner, 0.8-1.2% of a stabilizer, 0.02-1% of a preservative, 0.001-3% of a preservative synergist, 0.001-0.1% of an antioxidant, 0.01-0.3% of an essence, 4-30% of a multi-effect skin care composition and deionized water; wherein the multipurpose skin care composition is a combination of bisabolol, melaleuca alternifolia oil, hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid, olea europaea unsaponifiable matter, calamine, and zinc oxide. The invention also provides a preparation method of the multi-effect infant nursing cream. The multi-effect infant nursing cream can repair and prevent red buttocks of infants.
Chinese patent 201910076422.X discloses a composition with moisturizing effect, which comprises the following components: 5-15 parts of avocado oil, 3-10 parts of macadamia nut seed oil, 2-9 parts of argania spinosa kernel oil, 1-5 parts of myrrh oil, 4-10 parts of sweet almond oil, 3-7 parts of cardamom seed oil, 2-5 parts of rose oil, 2-6 parts of jasmine flower oil and 2-7 parts of cyperus oil. The composition disclosed by the patent can be used in a washing and protecting product for caring hair and skin, has the effects of moistening and moisturizing while cleaning hair and skin, and has the effects of assisting in relieving, resisting allergy, whitening and the like.
Chinese patent application 201910134589.7 discloses an infant skin care product and a preparation method thereof, wherein the infant skin care product is prepared from the following raw materials: 4-6 parts of folium artemisiae argyi, 3-6 parts of liquorice, 1-4 parts of scutellaria baicalensis, 2-5 parts of white poria, 3-5 parts of radix puerariae, 2-6 parts of honeysuckle, 1-6 parts of radix bupleuri, 6-8 parts of avocado oil, 20-35 parts of shea butter, 3-5 parts of vitamin E, 0.5-1 part of butanediol, 2-4 parts of glycerol and 7-9 parts of deionized water. The product can relieve skin and reduce skin allergy, and can be used for preventing and treating eczema and dermatitis, and is suitable for children and infants.
Chinese patent application 201910339965.6 discloses a skin care product with moisturizing, soothing and antioxidant effects, which is prepared by taking oil of ruined palm fruit, jojoba oil, avocado oil, tocopherol, aloe barbadensis leaf extract, chamomile flower extract, mallow flower extract, peony root extract, honeysuckle flower extract, dandelion rhizome/root extract, viola yedoensis extract, aloe barbadensis leaf juice, sodium hyaluronate and biological carbohydrate gum-1 as main ingredients and adding auxiliary materials. The application claims that the moisturizing and moisturizing effect is remarkable, the free radical scavenging capacity is strong, and the relieving effect is outstanding.
Chinese patent application 202010690294.0 discloses a composition with moisturizing and anti-allergy effects, which comprises the following components: 5-10 parts of xylitol, 5-10 parts of lactitol, 3-5 parts of avocado oil, 3-5 parts of camellia seed oil, 3-10 parts of macadamia nut seed oil, 2-9 parts of argania spinosa kernel oil, 2-4 parts of cyperus rotundus root oil, 1-5 parts of bisabolol and 30.5-1 parts of ceramide. The application claims that the composition has the effects of moisturizing, water locking and the like, can assist in relieving and the like, repairs the lipid barrier of the skin, can be used in hair washing and protecting products, and has good moisturizing and hair moistening effects.
In the prior art, in order to achieve the effect of relieving and repairing, valuable components such as various plant extracts and the like are mostly added into a cosmetic composition, and the method is listed based on the previously published effects and lacks strict basic research to prove that the synergistic effect brought by the multi-component composition technology and the adverse negative effect cannot be introduced.
In fact, although plant extracts contain bioactive components, and different plant extracts often contain different bioactive components, these bioactive components tend to be unstable and subject to denaturation. The denatured bioactive components make the actual use effect of consumers seriously questionable.
With the development of cosmetic technology, the combination of functional cosmetics and biochemical technology is becoming more and more compact. In recent decades, with the development of vacuum freeze-drying technology, the practical use of vacuum freeze-drying technology has been perfected. The rapid development and great price reduction of the freeze drying equipment enable the technology to be widely applied to the fields of biological pharmacy, food, cosmetics and the like.
Therefore, there is a need for a true soothing and rejuvenating cosmetic composition which does not require a complex combination of plant extracts, has a specific effect in soothing anti-inflammatory aspects, and is preferably in a dry form, such as a freeze-dried mask, in order to ensure stability of bioactive components in the composition.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a cosmetic composition with a soothing and repairing effect and a preparation method thereof.
The invention also aims to provide a freeze-dried mask with the effect of relieving and repairing, which does not need to be added with a preservative, is loose and porous after vacuum freeze drying, has low water content, is beneficial to the storage of functional components easy to oxidize, ensures the efficacy of the components, and is quickly and completely dissolved after rehydration.
In order to achieve the above object, in one aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition having soothing and repairing effects, comprising, in weight percent:
avocado oil 0.1-10%
Olive oil unsaponifiable matter 0.01-5%
Cosmetic matrix 85-99.89%
Wherein the cosmetic matrix comprises humectant, emollient, emulsifier and deionized water.
Preferably, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:
avocado oil 2-10%
Olive oil unsaponifiable matter 0.1-2%
88-97.9% of cosmetic matrix.
More preferably, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:
avocado oil 2-8%
Olive oil unsaponifiable matter 0.5-2%
90-97.5% of cosmetic matrix.
Further preferably, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:
avocado oil 3-5%
Olive oil unsaponifiable matter 0.5-1%
94-96% of cosmetic matrix.
Since IL-1 plays a key role in information transmission, activation and regulation of immune cells, proliferation and differentiation inflammation in inflammatory response, whether a sample has a soothing effect can be evaluated by detecting the relative expression level of IL-1 alpha gene. The inventor finds that in a efficacy test based on zebra fish soothing (relative expression level of IL-1 alpha gene) (see the detailed description of the invention), the following: when the avocado oil and olive oil unsaponifiable matter is not used, the relative expression quantity of the IL-1 alpha gene is the highest; when only one of avocado oil and olive oil unsaponifiable matter is used, the relative expression quantity of the IL-1 alpha gene is higher; when the avocado oil and olive oil unsaponifiable matter is used at the same time, the relative expression quantity of the IL-1 alpha gene is the lowest. Therefore, the cosmetic plant of the present invention contains both avocado oil and olive oil unsaponifiables.
In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the cosmetic base used may include a moisturizing agent, an emollient, an emulsifier, and deionized water, and may further include other cosmetic additives such as essence, a stabilizer, a preservative, and the like. If the cosmetic composition of the present invention is used to prepare a freeze-dried mask having soothing and rejuvenating effects, it is preferable not to contain a stabilizer, a preservative, etc., because the more ingredients used, particularly, the more preservatives, etc., the higher the risk of skin allergy.
In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the humectant in the cosmetic base used may be, but is not limited to, one or more of glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, sorbitol, β -glucan, saccharide isomerate, diglycerin, polyethylene glycol-32, biosaccharide gum-1, betaine, trehalose, fructo-oligosaccharide, sodium polyglutamate, and sodium hyaluronate.
In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the emollient in the cosmetic base used may be one or more of, but not limited to, vegetable oil, synthetic oil, mineral oil. Wherein, the natural oil can be one or more than one selected from the following group: undecane/tridecane, coco-caprylate/caprate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, isononyl isononanoate, argan, tea seed oil, macadamia nut oil, jojoba oil, grape seed oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, safflower seed oil, rice bran oil, sunflower seed oil, shea butter, kadsura mustard oil and passion fruit oil.
In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the emulsifier in the cosmetic base used may be, but is not limited to, one or more of PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, methyl glucoside sesquistearate, lecithin derivatives, glyceryl stearate, polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters, polyglycerol fatty acid esters, polysorbate esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters, alkyl glucosides.
Preferably, in the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the avocado oil used is cold pressed avocado oil, because cold pressing does not require heat treatment and chemical solvent treatment, and its original nutritional and bioactive components can be retained to the maximum extent. The cold-pressed avocado oil has good permeability to skin, is rich in vitamin A, vitamin B1, vitamin B2, vitamin D, vitamin E, lecithin, pantothenic acid and other nutrients, and has remarkable moisturizing and nourishing properties; in addition, avocado oil has positive therapeutic effects on skin burn and wound repair. However, the cold-pressed avocado oil is darker in color, is relatively easy to discolor, and is easy to cause product appearance change in common cosmetics. The final usage amount is selected from 1-10% according to the literature data of effectiveness and safety and the operability of the composition formula. This material is commercially available from Sophim.
In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the employed olive oil unsaponifiable matter is preferably high-purity oily liquid with content of more than 96% obtained by processes of squeezing, enriching, saponifying, vacuum fractionating, etc., and the oily liquid contains abundant squalene and steroid compounds, and has good biological activity. The unsaponifiable matter mainly comprises squalene and steroid compounds, and the squalene has high biological activity as a lipid unsaponifiable matter. Unsaponifiables are generally minor in plants, but exhibit major biological activities such as free radical scavenging, anti-inflammatory, etc. The olive oil has the highest squalene content in nature, and is far higher than other common vegetable oils such as rapeseed oil, corn oil, camellia oil, peanut oil and the like. The unsaponifiable matter also has the functions of anti-aging and repairing after being purified. This material is commercially available from RES PHARMA INDUSTRIALE, r.l.
In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the solvent in the cosmetic base is preferably deionized water.
In another aspect, to achieve the object of the present invention, the present invention provides a method for preparing the above cosmetic composition, comprising the steps of:
(1) Heating deionized water to 80-85 ℃, adding a humectant, uniformly stirring, and cooling;
(2) Heating the emollient, the emulsifier, the avocado oil and the olive oil unsaponifiable matter to 60-65 ℃, and stirring and mixing uniformly;
(3) And (3) cooling the material prepared in the step (1) to 60-65 ℃, adding the material prepared in the step (2), simultaneously starting homogenizing and stirring, cooling to 35-38 ℃ after uniform emulsification, and discharging to obtain the cosmetic composition with the soothing and repairing effects.
In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a freeze-dried mask having a soothing and repairing effect, wherein the freeze-dried mask comprises a mask sheet and essence components coated on the mask sheet, and the essence components comprise avocado oil and olive oil unsaponifiable matter.
Preferably, in the freeze-dried mask, the content of avocado oil is 2% -30% and the content of olive oil unsaponifiable matter is 0.2% -15% of the total weight of essential components on the freeze-dried mask.
As a specific embodiment of the freeze-dried mask of the present invention, the freeze-dried mask of the present invention is obtained by coating an essence containing the cosmetic composition on a mask sheet, and then performing low-temperature drying and vacuum freeze-drying.
That is, the cosmetic composition with soothing and repairing effects can be prepared in advance, the preparation method can be used for homogenizing through common emulsification or high-pressure micro-jet, and the cosmetic composition can also be independently used as a component to be added into a formula to participate in emulsification preparation when a freeze-dried mask essence is prepared.
Preferably, in the freeze-dried mask of the present invention, the moisture content thereof is between 2 and 15%. Therefore, due to the low water content, the storage of the easily oxidized functional components is facilitated, the efficacy of the components is ensured, and the freeze-dried mask can be stored for a long time.
Preferably, no preservative is added in the freeze-dried mask of the invention, and the freeze-dried mask is loose and porous after vacuum freeze-drying, so that the rapid and complete dissolution after rehydration can be ensured.
More preferably, in the freeze-dried mask of the present invention, the water activity of the contained water is less than 0.6Aw. Water Activity (Water Activity, also called Water Activity, or aw) refers to the ratio of the equilibrium vapor pressure of a certain substance (such as food or cosmetic) to the saturated vapor pressure of pure Water at the same temperature in a closed space. The water activity of pure water is equal to 1.0. Water activity is measured as the free water molecules in the article, which are a necessity for the reproduction and survival of microorganisms. For example, the water activity of most fresh foods is 0.99, while the water activity that inhibits the growth of most bacteria is about 0.91.
The water activity index is far better than the water content index in judging the putrefaction and deterioration of the goods. Since there are usually two types of water in an article, one is free water and one is bound water (i.e., water that hydrogen bonds to the article). The water content is the sum of free water and bound water, and water activity refers to the free water in the article. The microorganisms in the article cannot utilize bound water, but can only reproduce with such free water; the more free water, the more easily the microorganism grows, and the shelf life is shorter. As can be seen, water activity refers to the active portion of the water content of a substance or free water. Control of water activity is important to the shelf life of the product.
In still another aspect, to achieve the object of the present invention, the present invention provides a method for preparing the above-mentioned freeze-dried mask, comprising the steps of:
(1) Heating deionized water to 80-85 ℃, adding a humectant, uniformly stirring, and cooling;
(2) Heating the emollient, the emulsifier, the avocado oil and the olive oil unsaponifiable matter to 60-65 ℃, and stirring and mixing uniformly;
(3) Cooling the material prepared in the step (1) to 60-65 ℃, adding the material prepared in the step (2), simultaneously starting homogenizing and stirring, cooling to 35-38 ℃ after uniform emulsification, and discharging to obtain the cosmetic composition for preparing the freeze-dried facial mask;
(4) Uniformly coating the essence containing the cosmetic composition prepared in the step (3) on a membrane cloth through magnetic control;
(5) Carrying out convection circulation drying on the membrane cloth coated with the essence obtained in the step (4) at a low temperature to remove most of water, and cutting into pieces;
(6) And (5) further removing water from the cut pieces obtained in the step (5) through vacuum freeze drying, freeze-drying for crystallization, controlling the water activity to be less than 0.6Aw, and sealing and packaging.
The above-described method for preparing a freeze-dried mask may further include other steps, for example, the coating of the step (4) may be performed stepwise.
In the step (4) of the method for preparing a freeze-dried mask according to the present invention, magnetic force control is generally achieved by controlling magnetic induction intensity. The selection of the magnetic induction intensity is related to various factors, such as the formula and concentration of the essence, the amount and speed of coating, the material of the mask cloth and the like. Preferably, in the method for preparing the freeze-dried mask provided by the present invention, the magnetic induction intensity is controlled to be between 0 and 15 tesla.
In the step (5) of the method for preparing a freeze-dried facial mask of the present invention, the so-called low temperature is that the actual contact temperature of the air stream and the material is controlled to be between 55 and 70 ℃, preferably between 55 and 65 ℃. It is actually a low hot air dryer. The term "removing most of the water" means removing 50% or more of the water, for example, removing 50% to 80% of the water, to save energy and cost for freeze-drying, but the higher the water is, the better the water is not removed, because the components in the essence are prevented from being excessively heated.
In the step (6) of the method for preparing a freeze-dried mask according to the present invention, the vacuum freeze-drying process in the freeze-drying process is preferably performed at a temperature of-20 ℃ to-80 ℃, more preferably at a temperature of-30 ℃ to-60 ℃, and the degree of vacuum of the freeze-drying chamber is preferably controlled at 5 to 600Pa, preferably at 10 to 100Pa. After freeze-drying, the water activity can be controlled to be less than 0.6Aw, the water content of the obtained freeze-dried mask is between 2 and 15 percent, and the risk of breeding microorganisms in a sealed storage state is very low.
The cosmetic composition with the effects of relieving and repairing and the freeze-dried mask thereof comprise effective amounts of avocado oil and olive oil unsaponifiables, and can effectively reduce the relative expression amount of IL-1 alpha genes. The cosmetic composition and the freeze-dried mask thereof are mild to skin, can effectively relieve the problem of redness of sensitive skin or redness of normal skin after being sun-cured, and achieve the effect of recovering normal and healthy skin luster; in addition, the sunscreen cream is beneficial to improving the repair capability of the skin after being dried, reducing the water loss of the skin and repairing the skin barrier. The freeze-dried mask disclosed by the invention does not need to be added with a preservative, and has a remarkable improvement effect on the problems of skin sensitivity and redness caused by irritation, after-sun and the like.
The present invention will be further described with reference to the accompanying drawings and specific embodiments, which are illustrative of certain specific embodiments of the present invention and are not to be construed as limiting the invention.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing comparative analysis of relative expression amounts of IL-1. Alpha. Gene in comparative examples 1-3 and example 3 of the present invention;
fig. 2 is a graphical representation of a comparative pre-and post-test analysis of the values of the parameter a of redness using the lyophilized mask of example 3;
fig. 3 is a schematic diagram showing comparative analysis before and after the test of the trans-epidermal water loss rate using the lyophilized mask of example 3;
fig. 4 is a schematic of comparative pre-and post-test analysis when the freeze-dried mask of example 3 was used to test the lactate sting assessment.
Detailed Description
Example 1
The cosmetic composition with soothing and repairing effects of example 1 was prepared according to the following formulation, wherein the raw material components are in weight percent:
the preparation method adopts the formula and comprises the following preparation processes:
(1) Adding deionized water, butanediol, sodium hyaluronate, glycerol and trehalose into a water phase pot, heating to 80-85 ℃, starting stirring for 25r/min, uniformly dissolving, and pumping into an emulsification cylinder. As phase A;
(2) Adding polyglycerol-2 oleate, polyglycerol-10 oleate, avocado oil and olive oil unsaponifiable matter into an oil phase pot, starting to heat to 60-65 ℃, stirring for 25r/min, keeping the temperature for 3-10 minutes, and stirring to dissolve uniformly to obtain a B phase;
(3) When the temperature of the emulsification cylinder is reduced to 60-65 ℃, adding the prepared phase B raw material, stirring for 25r/min, homogenizing for 2500r/min, homogenizing for 3-8 min until uniform, and beginning to stir and reduce the temperature at the same time;
(4) Cooling to 35-38 ℃ while stirring, adding 1, 2-pentanediol, and stirring for 25r/min to be uniform, thereby obtaining the composition with the effect of relieving and repairing in example 1.
Example 2
The cosmetic composition with soothing and repairing effects of example 2 was prepared according to the following formulation, wherein the raw material components are in weight percent:
the preparation method adopts the formula and comprises the following preparation processes:
(1) Adding deionized water, butanediol, the tremella sporophore extract, glycerol, trehalose and sodium hyaluronate into a water phase pot, heating to 80-85 ℃, starting stirring for 25r/min, dissolving uniformly and pumping into an emulsifying cylinder. As phase A;
(2) Adding PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, avocado oil and olive oil unsaponifiable matter into an oil phase pot, starting to heat to 60-65 ℃, stirring for 25r/min, keeping the temperature for 3-10 minutes, and stirring to dissolve uniformly to obtain a phase B;
(3) When the temperature of the emulsification cylinder is reduced to 60-65 ℃, adding the prepared phase B raw material, stirring for 25r/min, homogenizing for 2500r/min, homogenizing for 3-8 min until uniform, and beginning to stir and reduce the temperature at the same time;
(4) And cooling to 35-38 ℃ while stirring, and stirring for 25r/min to be uniform to obtain the composition with the effect of relieving and repairing of the embodiment 2.
Comparative examples 1 to 3 and example 3
To better illustrate the advantages of the present invention, freeze-dried masks having soothing and repairing effects of comparative examples 1 to 3 and example 3 having the formulations shown in table 1 were prepared according to the following preparation processes and used for performing efficacy tests.
TABLE 1
The preparation process of comparative examples 1 to 3 and example 3 was as follows:
(1) Heating phase A deionized water to 80-85 ℃, pumping into an emulsifying cylinder, adding phase A other raw materials, stirring for 25r/min, homogenizing for 2500r/min, homogenizing for 3-8 minutes until uniform, and cooling to 60-65 ℃ while stirring after uniform dissolution;
(2) Adding the B phase raw material into an oil phase pot, starting to heat to 60-65 ℃, controlling the heating and heat preservation time to be 3-10 minutes, adding the prepared B phase raw material when the temperature of an emulsification cylinder is reduced to 60-65 ℃, stirring for 25r/min, homogenizing for 2500r/min, homogenizing for 3-8 minutes until the uniformity is achieved, and starting to reduce the temperature;
(3) Stirring and cooling to 35-38 ℃ at the same time to obtain freeze-dried mask essence;
(4) Uniformly coating the prepared essence on a film cloth under the control of magnetic force, drying at low temperature by convection circulation to remove most of water, cutting into pieces, further removing water by vacuum freeze drying, freeze-drying for crystallization, controlling the water activity to be less than 0.6Aw, and sealing and packaging to obtain the product.
The application test of the soothing and repairing efficacy composition of the present invention added to the freeze-dried mask is as follows:
efficacy test method based on zebra fish relieving (IL-1 alpha gene relative expression quantity)
Principle of experiment: sodium dodecyl sulfate (SLS) can cause the body to generate stimulation reaction after acting on the body, and the stimulators enter into the body of the zebra fish to induce inflammatory reaction, and neutrophils generate immune response and migrate and gather to the epidermis of the skin. IL-1 plays a key role in transmitting information, activating and regulating immune cells, proliferating and differentiating inflammation in inflammatory reaction, and whether a sample has the effect of relieving can be evaluated by detecting the relative expression quantity of an IL-1 alpha gene.
Experimental methods: dividing the tested zebra fish into a normal control group, a model control group and a test sample group, wherein the normal control group is not processed, the model control group is processed by only SLS, and the test sample group is added while the test sample group is processed by SLS. After a period of incubation, the amount of secreted inflammatory factor IL-1. Alpha. Was measured. The relative expression level of IL-1. Alpha. Gene of comparative examples 1-3 and example 3 was measured as shown in FIG. 1;
analysis of results: in comparative example 1, avocado oil and olive oil unsaponifiables were not used, and the relative expression level of IL-1 alpha gene was the highest; comparative example 2 only uses avocado oil, comparative example 3 only uses olive oil unsaponifiable matter, and the relative expression quantity of IL-1 alpha gene is also higher; example 3 when both avocado oil and olive oil unsaponifiables were used, the relative expression level of IL-1. Alpha. Gene was the lowest. Therefore, the cosmetic composition/freeze-dried mask with the soothing and repairing effects has a strong soothing effect.
Human body test
The freeze-dried mask with soothing and repairing effects prepared in example 3 is further used by 30 people with sensitive skin for 4 weeks, tested by an instrument, and compared before and after:
fig. 2 shows comparative analysis before and after testing using the lyophilized mask of example 3 to test the value of the parameter a for redness; in fig. 2, W0 represents the pre-application redness parameter a, and W4 represents the redness parameter a after 4 weeks of continuous application, and as can be seen in fig. 2, the facial redness a is significantly reduced in the test area, indicating that the product has efficacy in reducing skin redness for 4 weeks;
FIG. 3 is a graph showing comparative pre-and post-test analysis of the rate of transepidermal water loss when the lyophilized mask of example 3 is used; in fig. 3, W0 represents the transepidermal water loss rate before use, W4 represents the transepidermal water loss rate after 4 weeks of continuous use, and as can be seen in fig. 3, the test area transepidermal water loss rate values are significantly reduced, indicating that the product has a skin barrier improvement effect for 4 weeks;
FIG. 4 is a graph showing comparative analysis before and after the test when the evaluation value of lactic acid stinging was measured using the freeze-dried mask of example 3; in fig. 4, W0 represents the lactate sting assessment before use, W4 represents the lactate sting assessment after 4 weeks of continuous use, and as can be seen from fig. 4, the score of lactate sting in the test area is significantly reduced, indicating that the product has an effect of improving skin sensitivity for 4 weeks.
The above-mentioned embodiments are only used for illustrating the technical solutions of the present invention, but the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto, and any changes or substitutions that can be easily conceived by those skilled in the art within the technical scope of the present invention disclosed herein should be covered within the scope of the present invention. Therefore, the protection scope of the present invention should be subject to the protection scope of the claims.
Claims (10)
1. A cosmetic composition with soothing and repairing effects comprises the following components in percentage by weight:
avocado oil 0.1-10%
Olive oil unsaponifiable matter 0.01-5%
Cosmetic matrix 85-99.89%
Wherein the cosmetic matrix comprises a humectant, an emollient, an emulsifier and deionized water.
2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the humectant in the cosmetic composition is one or more selected from the group consisting of: glycerol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, sorbitol, beta-glucan, saccharide isomerate, diglycerol, polyethylene glycol-32, bioglycan-1, betaine, trehalose, fructo-oligosaccharide, sodium polyglutamate and sodium hyaluronate.
3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the emulsifier in the cosmetic composition is one or more selected from the group consisting of: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, methyl glucoside sesquistearate, lecithin derivatives, glyceryl stearate, polyoxyethylene fatty acid ester, polyglycerol fatty acid ester, polysorbate, sucrose fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid ester and alkyl glucosides.
4. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 wherein the avocado oil in the cosmetic composition is cold pressed avocado oil.
5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the unsaponifiable olive oil contained in the cosmetic composition is a highly pure oily liquid having a content of > 96% obtained by extraction, enrichment, saponification and vacuum fractionation.
6. A process for preparing a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, comprising the steps of:
(1) Heating deionized water to 80-85 ℃, adding a humectant, uniformly stirring, and cooling;
(2) Heating the emollient, the emulsifier, the avocado oil and the olive oil unsaponifiable matter to 60-65 ℃, and stirring and mixing uniformly;
(3) And (3) cooling the material prepared in the step (1) to 60-65 ℃, adding the material prepared in the step (2), simultaneously starting homogenizing and stirring, cooling to 35-38 ℃ after uniform emulsification, and discharging to obtain the cosmetic composition with the effect of relieving and repairing.
7. The freeze-dried mask with the soothing and repairing effects comprises mask cloth and essence components coated on the mask cloth, wherein the essence components contain avocado oil and olive oil unsaponifiable matters.
8. The freeze-dried mask according to claim 7, wherein the freeze-dried mask is obtained by coating a essence containing the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 on the mask cloth, and then performing low-temperature drying and vacuum freeze-drying.
9. The freeze-dried mask as claimed in claim 8, wherein the moisture content of the freeze-dried mask is between 2 to 15%.
10. A method for preparing the freeze-dried mask according to any one of claims 7 to 9, comprising the steps of:
(1) Heating deionized water to 80-85 ℃, adding a humectant, uniformly stirring, and cooling;
(2) Heating the emollient, the emulsifier, the avocado oil and the olive oil unsaponifiable matter to 60-65 ℃, and stirring and mixing uniformly;
(3) Cooling the material prepared in the step (1) to 60-65 ℃, adding the material prepared in the step (2), simultaneously starting homogenizing and stirring, cooling to 35-38 ℃ after uniform emulsification, and discharging to obtain the cosmetic composition for preparing the freeze-dried mask;
(4) Uniformly coating the essence containing the cosmetic composition prepared in the step (3) on a membrane cloth through magnetic control;
(5) Carrying out convection circulation drying on the membrane cloth coated with the essence obtained in the step (4) at a low temperature to remove most of water, and cutting into pieces;
(6) And (5) further removing water from the cut pieces obtained in the step (5) through vacuum freeze drying, freeze-drying for crystallization, controlling the water activity to be less than 0.6Aw, and sealing and packaging.
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