CN114533584B - Collagenase anti-wrinkle face cream - Google Patents
Collagenase anti-wrinkle face cream Download PDFInfo
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- CN114533584B CN114533584B CN202210421441.3A CN202210421441A CN114533584B CN 114533584 B CN114533584 B CN 114533584B CN 202210421441 A CN202210421441 A CN 202210421441A CN 114533584 B CN114533584 B CN 114533584B
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- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
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Abstract
The invention belongs to the technical field of medical cosmetology, and particularly relates to collagenase anti-wrinkle cream. The invention belongs to the technical field of medical cosmetology, and particularly relates to collagenase anti-wrinkle cream which comprises the following components: emulsifying agent, skin-moistening oil, humectant, anti-wrinkle component, antiseptic, thickener, pH regulator, solvent, and antiseptic; the anti-wrinkle component comprises collagenase. The face cream disclosed by the invention takes collagenase as a main wrinkle-removing effective component, has a very strong collagen swelling effect on the premise of not degrading collagen fibers, and is added into skin care products to achieve the anti-wrinkle effect.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of medical cosmetology, and particularly relates to collagenase anti-wrinkle cream.
Background
At present, the problems of dark yellow complexion, pigmentation and aging are increasingly younger, and researches show that the proportion of skin care products of the whitening and anti-wrinkle categories of young people aged 18-23 is gradually improved, the market whitening and anti-wrinkle demands are more intense, and meanwhile, the anti-wrinkle method is generally divided into two types: the anti-wrinkle skin care product is selected for medical injection. Consumers prefer to use natural and safe external products to meet their own needs in whitening and anti-wrinkle compared to the medical products botulinum toxin and hyaluronic acid fill with manual intervention.
Collagen plays a major role in skin wrinkle resistance, and is a major component of extracellular matrix. The collagen is positioned in the dermis layer of the skin, the content is about 70%, the main types are I (85%), III and V, fibrous collagen forms a net structure, tension and elasticity of the skin are provided, the collagen is an important biochemical reaction place of the skin, the collagen has the physiological functions of enhancing skin elasticity, enhancing the water storage capacity of skin tissue cells of an organism, keeping the skin tender and soft and the like, and the growth, repair and nutrition of the skin are not separated from the collagen. Fine lines and wrinkles are produced in human skin because, as age increases, external pressure stimuli increase, resulting in collagen loss. The collagen swelling effect of collagenase is utilized to swell collagen at the wrinkles and fill the wrinkles and the ravines so as to achieve the effect of removing the wrinkles.
As the formation of wrinkles continues to develop , anti-wrinkle materials develop further. The anti-wrinkle raw materials developed and applied in the prior art mainly comprise the following types: scavenging free radicals, increasing cell proliferation rate, and delaying degradation rate of extracellular matrix. The anti-wrinkle raw materials commonly used at present comprise enzymes, peptides, vitamins, plant active ingredient classes, medicines and the like. Both merchants and consumers expect to develop environmentally friendly, safe and healthy cosmetics of natural components, and return to natural is becoming a trend. Therefore, there is a need to develop a safe and effective new anti-wrinkle product.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the problems in the prior art, the invention provides the collagenase anti-wrinkle facial cream which can well expand collagen at wrinkles and fill the gaps of the wrinkles so as to achieve the effect of removing the wrinkles.
In order to achieve the above purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
the invention discloses an anti-wrinkle face cream, which comprises the following components: emulsifying agent, skin-moistening oil, humectant, anti-wrinkle component, antiseptic, thickener, pH regulator, solvent, and antiseptic; the anti-wrinkle component comprises any of the collagenase enzymes described above. The addition amount of the skin-moistening grease and the moisturizing agent ensures that the cream has a lubricating effect and a good moisturizing effect; the anti-wrinkle spot-removing component is a main functional component in the face cream, has good repairing effect on skin pigmentation and skin aging, and promotes skin regeneration.
Further, the emulsifier consists of the following components in parts by weight:
glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate 1.5 parts, wax stearyl alcohol 1.5 parts.
The glycerol stearate and the PEG-100 stearate are mainly used as surfactants and emulsifying agents in cosmetics and skin care products, are safer, can be used safely, can be widely used for preparing cosmetics, have good emulsifying property, can be used as emulsifying agents and surfactants, and improve the quality of products.
stearyl alcohol wax, which contains mainly a mixture of solid fatty alcohols of stearyl alcohol (C18H 38O) and cetyl alcohol (C16H 34O). The ratio of stearyl alcohol to cetyl alcohol is about 50% to 70% stearyl alcohol and 20% to 35% cetyl alcohol. The stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol together make up at least 90% of the mixture, with the remainder being minor amounts of other alcohols, principally tetradecanol.
The two organic substances are mixed to form the emulsifier, so that the emulsifier is safe and has no side effect.
Further, the skin-moistening grease comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1 part of petrolatum, 10 parts of squalane and 1 part of silicone oil.
Petrolatum, commonly known as petrolatum, is considered a typical cosmetic vehicle and has been widely used in cosmetics and skin treatments. Petrolatum is a pure substance derived from petroleum and consists of a variety of long chain aliphatic hydrocarbons. Can be used as a drug delivery system, in particular as a lipophilic agent, and also in liposome formulations. In topical application, petrolatum itself only penetrates the outermost surface of the stratum corneum. The most important property of petrolatum is its moisturizing effect on the stratum corneum due to its relative occlusive effect. Petrolatum is thus the standard vehicle for comparative hydration and barrier repair tests.
Squalane is hydrocarbon oil with excellent performance obtained by hydrogenating squalene extracted from deep sea shark liver, and is also called deep sea shark liver oil. Scientific researches show that squalane is an animal fat with little chemical stability and excellent use sense, has better affinity to skin, does not cause allergy and irritation, and can accelerate other active ingredients in the formula to permeate into the skin; has low polarity and moderate spreadability, and is pure, colorless and odorless; it also can inhibit mold growth.
The silicone oil can be well used in cosmetic production to improve the performance of cosmetics. The silicone oil has low surface tension and viscosity, can lead other components of the cosmetics to be easily spread into films on the skin, has no sticky feeling, can endow the cosmetics with quick drying, smoothness, good antifouling luster and other performances, can be quickly dissipated as a cosmetic carrier, and leads other cosmetic components to be uniformly distributed into films, which is important in eye cosmetics and nail polish.
The skin-moistening grease is a composition of three substances, and the three skin-moistening substances have good skin-moistening and moisturizing effects, wherein squalane has the characteristics of little chemical stability, high use feeling, good affinity to skin, no allergy and irritation, acceleration of penetration of other active ingredients in the formula into the skin, low polarity, medium spreadability, good antibacterial effect, moistening affinity and high stability.
Further, the humectant consists of the following components in parts by weight: 0.1 part of hyaluronic acid and 4 parts of glycerol.
Hyaluronic acid, also known as hyaluronic acid, is an acidic mucopolysaccharide. It is an important basic substance for skin care, is a component of human body, has special moisturizing effect, has the weight up to 100 times of the weight of the skin care, is the substance with the best moisturizing property in the nature, and is called ideal natural moisturizing factor. It can improve skin nutrition metabolism, make skin tender, smooth, remove wrinkle, increase elasticity, prevent aging, and is good transdermal absorption promoter while keeping moisture. Can be used together with other nutritional components to achieve more ideal effect of promoting nutrient absorption. Hyaluronic acid can be used in cosmetic cream, honey, milk, facial mask, shampoo, etc. to maintain moisture of skin and hair, moisten skin and hair, increase luster, and prevent chapped skin and wrinkle.
The chemical name of the glycerol is glycerol, which is colorless transparent viscous liquid, odorless and sweet. It is the earliest used humectant in cosmetics and is currently most commonly used. The glycerin molecule contains three-OH groups, forms hydrogen bonds with water molecules, binds water, plays a good role in moisture absorption and preservation, has obvious moisturizing effect on human skin and hair, and can increase the solubility of other components in cosmetics. Glycerol is widely used in various cosmetics to supplement moisture to skin horny layer, regulate skin physiological action, keep skin healthy, and improve use feeling.
The humectant is a mixture of hyaluronic acid and glycerin, and besides good moisturizing effect, the hyaluronic acid also has good anti-wrinkle repairing effect, promotes the absorption of nutrient components, and keeps skin moist and smooth; the glycerol has high hydroxyl content, good hydrophilic performance of hydroxyl and high compatibility with skin.
Further, the anti-wrinkle component consists of the following components in parts by weight: collagenase 0.1 part.
Further, the preservative consists of the following components in parts by weight: 0.036 part of isopentyl glycol, 0.096 part of octyl glycol, 0.132 part of 1, 2-hexanediol, 0.324 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0.612 part of dipropylene glycol.
The preservative has the advantages of less addition, the dosage is far lower than the limit value of the specified preservative, the preservative has almost no inhibition effect on the effective components of the moisturizing anti-wrinkle face cream, the compatibility of five preservatives can be improved, the five preservatives have good compatibility, and the combined preservative has better antibacterial and antiseptic effects.
Further, the pH regulator consists of the following components in parts by weight: arginine 0.19 parts
Arginine is mainly used as a pH regulator in cosmetics and skin care products, is a humectant, is safer, can be used safely, and has no acne-causing property. Belongs to basic amino acid, is mainly used for conditioning dry skin in cosmetics, has synergistic effect with fruit acid, trehalose and the like with moisturizing effect, can keep skin moisture, smoothen skin and reduce flaking of dander. Arginine is also the most commonly used cosmetic nutritional aid.
Further, the thickener consists of the following components in parts by weight: a carbowave 980:0.32 parts.
Further, the solvent consists of the following components in parts by weight: 76.86 parts of distilled water.
Further, the preparation method of the collagenase facial cream comprises the following steps:
s1: weighing the raw materials according to the weight ratio;
s2: heating and stirring the emulsifier and the skin-moistening grease in a water bath at 80 ℃ to obtain an oil phase solution;
s3: stirring humectant, antiseptic, pH regulator and solvent in 80deg.C water bath to dissolve to obtain water phase solution; adding xanthan gum into aqueous solution prepared from other substances, continuously stirring, adding thickener, and continuously stirring until all the thickener is dissolved;
s4: slowly adding the oil phase solution into the water phase solution, homogenizing and emulsifying for 3min; the rotation speed is 10000-12000r;
s5: continuing stirring, adding the anti-wrinkle and speckle-reducing components when the temperature of the mixture is reduced to 40-50 ℃, and fully stirring to uniformly mix the anti-wrinkle and speckle-reducing components to obtain the anti-wrinkle moisturizing facial cream.
Advantageous effects
The invention discloses a collagenase anti-wrinkle facial cream, which takes collagenase as a main wrinkle-removing effective component, has extremely strong collagen expansion effect on the premise of not degrading collagen fibers, and is added into skin care products to achieve the anti-wrinkle effect. The collagen swelling effect of the collagenase is utilized to produce a safe and pure skin care product with the functions of resisting aging and removing wrinkles, which can make up the gap of the market for biological high-tech anti-wrinkle products and meet the strong demands of consumers for the products.
The anti-wrinkle speckle-reducing face cream is prepared by adding an emulsifying agent, skin-moistening grease, a humectant, an anti-wrinkle speckle-reducing component, a preservative, a pH regulator and a solvent into the face cream, and adding a small amount of preservative for prolonging the service time of the face cream; the addition amount of the skin-moistening grease and the moisturizing agent ensures that the cream has a lubricating effect and a good moisturizing effect; the anti-wrinkle component is a main functional component in the face cream, has a good repairing effect on skin aging, and promotes skin regeneration.
The skin-moistening grease is a composition of three substances, and the three skin-moistening substances have good skin-moistening and moisturizing effects, wherein squalane has the characteristics of little chemical stability, high use feeling, good affinity to skin, no allergy and irritation, acceleration of penetration of other active ingredients in the formula into the skin, low polarity, medium spreadability, good antibacterial effect, moistening affinity and high stability.
The humectant is a mixture of hyaluronic acid and glycerin, and besides good moisturizing effect, the hyaluronic acid also has good anti-wrinkle repairing effect, promotes the absorption of nutrient components, and keeps skin moist and smooth; the glycerol has high hydroxyl content, good hydrophilic performance of hydroxyl and high compatibility with skin.
The anti-wrinkle face cream is free of essence, pigment and Chinese herbal medicine or plant extract, wherein the non-addition of essence and pigment reduces the irritation of the face cream, and is milder to skin.
Detailed Description
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. Before the description, it is to be understood that the terms used in this specification and the appended claims should not be construed as limited to general and dictionary meanings, but interpreted based on the meanings and concepts corresponding to technical aspects of the present invention on the basis of the principle that the inventor is allowed to define terms appropriately for the best explanation. Accordingly, the description set forth herein is merely a preferred example for the purpose of illustration and is not intended to limit the scope of the invention, so that it should be understood that other equivalents or modifications may be made thereto without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.
The following examples are merely illustrative of embodiments of the present invention and are not intended to limit the invention in any way, and those skilled in the art will appreciate that modifications may be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Unless otherwise specified, reagents and equipment used in the following examples are commercially available products.
Example 1 enzyme Activity assay of collagenase
The method for measuring the collagenase enzyme activity comprises the following steps: the yield of leucine at 1. Mu. Mol per ml of enzyme at 37℃for 1h is one enzyme activity unit.
Adding 1 mL diluted collagenase into 100 mg bovine collagen fibers serving as a substrate, carrying out shake reaction for 1h (37 ℃ and 250 rpm) in a combined full-temperature oscillator at 37 ℃, adding 1 ml of 0.4 mol/L TCA inactivating enzyme after the completion, and centrifuging at 12000rpm for 10min to obtain a supernatant;
sample hydrolysis degree determination: taking 100 mu L of enzymolysis sample supernatant which is diluted once again, adding 200 mu L of ninhydrin-sodium citrate buffer solution, and heating at 93 ℃ for 20min; mu.L of the reaction mixture was taken, 100. Mu.L of 50% n-propanol was added thereto, and after mixing, the OD value was measured at 570 nm wavelength.
And (3) calculating: determining the amount of free amino groups of the hydrolysis product by combining a leucine standard curve; multiplying the dilution times of the enzymolysis samples and the dilution times of the enzyme solution to obtain the enzyme activity of the collagenase. (zeroing with blank set)
According to the collagen swelling test, the cytotoxicity test, the comprehensive screening of the collagen swelling effect has good collagen enzyme dilution factor, the critical dilution factor of the swelling effect is disappeared, and the minimum dilution factor without cytotoxicity is tested to make the face cream with 4 times, 16 times and 40 times of dilution factors without adding collagenase, so that the accurate concentration of the added collagenase is needed to be determined, and the problem that if the enzyme amount is insufficient, enzymolysis is incomplete, the expected anti-wrinkle effect is not achieved, or the skin is damaged excessively when the enzyme is excessive is solved.
The concentration gradient of the screened collagenase preparation is as follows:
a first group: no collagenase powder was added at a concentration of 0g/mL.
Second group: collagenase dilution factor of4 times the concentration of collagenase 1X10 -3 g/mL。
Third group: the dilution factor of collagenase is 16 times, and the concentration of collagenase is 2.5X10 -4 g/mL。
Fourth group: the dilution factor of collagenase is 40 times, and the concentration of collagenase is 1X10 -4 g/mL。
Example 2
An anti-wrinkle face cream comprises the following components in parts by weight: glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate 1 part, wax stearyl alcohol 1 part, petrolatum 0.5 part, squalane 5 parts, silicone oil 0.5 part, hyaluronic acid 0.05 part, glycerol 2 part, collagenase 0.05 part, isopentyl glycol 0.01 part, caprylyl glycol 0.05 part, 1,2 hexanediol 0.1 part, p-hydroxyacetophenone 0.1 part, dipropylene glycol 0.5 part, arginine 0.1 part, carbopol 980 0.1 part, and distilled water 50 parts.
Example 3
An anti-wrinkle face cream comprises the following components in parts by weight: 3 parts of glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate, 3 parts of wax stearyl alcohol, 2 parts of petrolatum, 15 parts of squalane, 2 parts of silicone oil, 1.5 parts of hyaluronic acid, 6 parts of glycerol, 2 parts of collagenase, 0.5 part of isopentyl glycol, 0.1 part of caprylyl glycol, 0.2 part of 1,2 hexanediol, 0.5 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1 part of dipropylene glycol, 0.3 part of arginine, 0.5 part of carbopol 980 and 100 parts of distilled water.
Example 4
An anti-wrinkle face cream comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1.5 parts of glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate, 1.5 parts of wax stearyl alcohol, 1 part of petrolatum, 10 parts of squalane, 1 part of silicone oil, 0.1 part of hyaluronic acid, 4 parts of glycerol, 0.1 part of collagenase according to any of claims 1 to 3, 0.036 part of isopentanediol, 0.096 part of octanediol, 0.132 part of 1,2 hexanediol, 0.324 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.612 part of dipropylene glycol, 0.19 part of arginine, 0.32 part of carbopol and 76.86 parts of distilled water.
Experimental example 1
To determine the optimal concentration of collagenase, a clinical experiment was performed on creams supplemented with four different concentration gradient collagenase preparations screened in example 3, as follows:
(1) The experimental object: 40 volunteer testers aged 32-48 years were selected and randomly divided into 4 groups, a test group and a control group, each group of 20.
(2) The experimental method comprises the following steps: the test group testers were subjected to cleansing treatment before sleeping every night, and then the face cream added with collagenase was uniformly smeared on the face for one month. The control group of testers were subjected to cleansing treatment before sleeping every night, and then the face cream without collagenase was uniformly smeared on the face for one month. Trial results were counted every 7 days and 30 days.
(3) Evaluation criteria: effectively indicates that the skin is moist and glossy, has elasticity, obviously resists wrinkles and improves fine lines; the ineffectiveness indicates that the skin texture did not change any before the experiment; generally, this means that the skin quality is improved, but the effect is not very remarkable, and is intermediate to the above two.
(4) Experimental results: the results of the specific experiments are shown in Table 1 below.
TABLE 1 experimental results
Enzymes of different concentrations were added to the cream formulation and after repeated experiments the optimal ratios were confirmed to be the second group: the concentration of collagenase was 2.5X10-4 g/mL. The proportion has good anti-wrinkle effect and no adverse reaction.
The above embodiments are only for illustrating the technical solution of the present invention, and are not limiting; although the invention has been described in detail with reference to the foregoing embodiments, it will be apparent to one skilled in the art that modifications may be made to the technical solutions described in the foregoing embodiments, or equivalents may be substituted for some of the technical features thereof; such modifications and substitutions do not depart from the spirit and scope of the corresponding technical solutions.
Claims (4)
1. An anti-wrinkle facial cream is characterized by comprising the following components: emulsifying agent, skin-moistening oil, humectant, anti-wrinkle component, antiseptic, thickener, pH regulator, and solvent;
the anti-wrinkle component comprises collagenase with concentration of 2.5X10 -4 g/mL;
The skin-moistening grease comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.5 to 2 parts of petrolatum, 5 to 15 parts of squalane and 0.5 to 2 parts of silicone oil;
the humectant comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.05 to 1.5 parts of hyaluronic acid and 2 to 6 parts of glycerol;
the preservative comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.01 to 0.5 part of isopentyl glycol, 0.05 to 0.1 part of octyl glycol, 0.1 to 0.2 part of 1,2 hexanediol, 0.1 to 0.5 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0.5 to 1 part of dipropylene glycol.
2. The anti-wrinkle facial cream of claim 1, wherein the emulsifier comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1-3 parts of glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate, and 1-3 parts of wax stearyl alcohol.
3. The anti-wrinkle facial cream according to claim 2, wherein the pH adjustor is 0.1-0.3 part of arginine; the thickener is 0.1-0.5 part of carbomer 980; the solvent is 50-100 parts of distilled water.
4. The anti-wrinkle facial cream according to claim 1, wherein the preparation method of the anti-wrinkle facial cream comprises the following steps:
s1: weighing the raw materials according to the weight ratio;
s2: heating and stirring the emulsifying agent and the skin-moistening grease at 70-85 ℃ to obtain an oil phase solution for later use;
s3: stirring humectant, preservative, pH regulator and solvent at 70-85deg.C until all of them are dissolved, adding xanthan gum, continuously stirring, adding thickener, continuously stirring until all of them are dissolved to obtain aqueous phase solution for use;
s4: slowly adding the oil phase solution obtained in the step S2 into the water phase solution obtained in the step S3, and homogenizing and emulsifying;
s5: and continuing stirring, adding the anti-wrinkle component when the temperature of the mixture is reduced to 40-50 ℃, and fully stirring to uniformly mix the anti-wrinkle component to obtain the anti-wrinkle face cream.
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