CN114533584A - Collagenase anti-wrinkle face cream - Google Patents
Collagenase anti-wrinkle face cream Download PDFInfo
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- CN114533584A CN114533584A CN202210421441.3A CN202210421441A CN114533584A CN 114533584 A CN114533584 A CN 114533584A CN 202210421441 A CN202210421441 A CN 202210421441A CN 114533584 A CN114533584 A CN 114533584A
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Abstract
The invention belongs to the technical field of medical cosmetology, and particularly relates to a collagen protease anti-wrinkle face cream. The invention belongs to the technical field of medical cosmetology, and particularly relates to a collagen protease anti-wrinkle face cream which comprises the following components: emulsifier, emollient oil, humectant, anti-wrinkle component, antiseptic, thickener, pH regulator, solvent, and antiseptic; the anti-wrinkle component comprises collagenase. The cream provided by the invention takes collagenase as a main wrinkle-removing functional component, has a very strong collagen swelling effect on the premise of not degrading collagen fibers, and can be added into skin care products to achieve the anti-wrinkle effect.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of medical cosmetology, and particularly relates to a collagen protease anti-wrinkle face cream.
Background
At present, the problems of dark yellow skin color, pigmentation and aging are increasingly younger, according to survey, the proportion of young people of 18-23 years old in skin care products of the whitening and anti-wrinkle category is gradually improved, the demand of whitening and anti-wrinkle in the market is increasingly strong, and meanwhile, anti-wrinkle methods are generally divided into two types: the skin care product is injected and selected by the medical science and the beauty. Compared with the botulinum toxin and hyaluronic acid filling of medical and American products subjected to manual intervention, consumers tend to meet the requirements of whitening and anti-wrinkle by using natural and safe external products.
Collagen plays a crucial role in anti-wrinkle of the skin, and is a main component of extracellular matrix. The collagen is located in the dermis layer of the skin, the content of the collagen is about 70%, the main types of the collagen are I (85%), III and V, the fibrous collagen forms a net structure to provide tension and elasticity of the skin, the collagen is an important biochemical reaction site of the skin, the collagen has the physiological functions of enhancing the elasticity of the skin, enhancing the water storage capacity of skin tissue cells of an organism and keeping the skin tender and soft, and the like, and the growth, the repair and the nutrition of the skin can not be separated from the collagen. Fine lines and wrinkles are formed in human skin because of loss of collagen due to increased external stress stimulation with age. The item utilizes the collagen swelling effect of collagenase to swell the collagen at the wrinkle and fill the wrinkles and gullies so as to achieve the effect of wrinkle removal.
With the continuing development make internal disorder or usurp of wrinkle formation, anti-wrinkle materials have been developed. In the prior art, the anti-wrinkle raw materials developed and applied more mainly comprise the following types: scavenging free radicals, increasing cell proliferation rate, and delaying degradation rate of extracellular matrix. At present, commonly used anti-wrinkle raw materials comprise enzymes, peptides, vitamins, plant active ingredients, medicines and the like. The merchant and the consumer are expecting to develop the environment-friendly, safe and healthy natural component cosmetics, and the trend of returning to the nature is gradually becoming. Therefore, a safe and effective new anti-wrinkle product needs to be developed.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the problems in the prior art, the invention provides the collagen protease anti-wrinkle face cream which can well expand collagen at wrinkles and fill wrinkles and gullies so as to achieve a wrinkle removing effect.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
the invention discloses an anti-wrinkle face cream which comprises the following components: emulsifier, emollient oil, humectant, anti-wrinkle component, antiseptic, thickener, pH regulator, solvent, and antiseptic; the anti-wrinkle component comprises the collagenase as described in any one of the above. The addition amount of the emollient grease and the humectant ensures that the cream has a lubricating effect and a good moisturizing effect; the anti-wrinkle spot-fading component is a main functional component in the face cream, has a good repairing effect on skin pigmentation and skin aging, and promotes skin regeneration.
Further, the emulsifier comprises the following components in parts by weight:
1.5 parts of glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate, and 1.5 parts of wax stearyl alcohol.
The glyceryl stearate and the PEG-100 stearate mainly serve as surfactants and emulsifiers in cosmetics and skin care products, are safe and can be used safely, are widely used for preparing the cosmetics, have good emulsifying performance, and can be used as the emulsifiers and the surfactants to improve the quality of products.
wax stearyl alcohol, a solid fatty alcohol mixture consisting essentially of stearyl alcohol (C18H38O) and cetyl alcohol (C16H 34O). The ratio of stearyl alcohol to cetyl alcohol is about 50% to 70% stearyl alcohol and 20% to 35% cetyl alcohol. Stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol together make up at least 90% of the mixture, the remainder being small amounts of other alcohols, mainly tetradecanol.
The emulsifier is prepared by mixing two organic substances, and is safe and free of side effect.
Further, the skin moistening grease is composed of the following components in parts by weight: 1 part of petrolatum, 10 parts of squalane and 1 part of silicone oil.
Petrolatum, commonly known as petrolatum, is considered a typical cosmetic vehicle and has been widely used in cosmetics and skin treatments. Petrolatum is a pure substance obtained from petroleum and is composed of a variety of long-chain aliphatic hydrocarbons. Can be used as a delivery system, particularly as an oleophilic agent, and also in liposome formulations. When used topically, petrolatum itself only penetrates the outermost surface of the stratum corneum. The most important property of petrolatum is its moisturizing effect on the stratum corneum, due to its relative occlusive effect. Thus, petrolatum is the standard excipient for comparative tests of hydration and barrier repair.
Squalane is hydrocarbon oil with excellent performance obtained by hydrogenating squalene extracted from deep sea shark liver, and is also called deep sea shark liver oil. Scientific research finds that squalane is rare animal oil with high chemical stability and excellent use feeling, has better affinity to the skin, does not cause allergy and irritation, and can accelerate other active ingredients in the formula to permeate into the skin; has low polarity and moderate spreadability, and is pure, colorless and odorless; it also can inhibit the growth of mold.
The silicone oil can be well used in the production of cosmetics to improve the performance of the cosmetics. Silicone oils have a low surface tension in combination with viscosity, which allows other cosmetic ingredients to readily spread as a film on the skin without a sticky feel, volatile silicone oils impart quick drying, smoothness, stain resistance, and shine to the cosmetic, and are useful as cosmetic carriers which rapidly dissipate to provide a uniformly distributed film of other cosmetic ingredients, which is important in eye cosmetics and nail polishes.
The skin moistening oil is a composition of three substances, and the three skin moistening substances have good skin moistening and moisturizing effects, wherein squalane is animal oil which is few and high in chemical stability and excellent in use feeling, has good affinity to skin, cannot cause allergy and irritation, can accelerate other active ingredients in a formula to permeate into the skin, has low polarity and moderate spreadability, and has the characteristics of good antibacterial effect, good moisturizing affinity and high stability.
Further, the humectant consists of the following components in parts by weight: hyaluronic acid 0.1 part, glycerine 4 parts.
Hyaluronic acid, also known as hyaluronic acid, is an acidic mucopolysaccharide. The moisturizing factor is an important basic substance for skin tenderness, is a component of a human body, has a special moisturizing effect, has the weight which is 100 times higher than that of the skin tendering factor, is a substance which is found to have the best moisturizing effect in the nature at present, and is called as an ideal natural moisturizing factor. It can improve skin nutrition metabolism, make skin tender and smooth, remove wrinkle, increase elasticity, and prevent aging, and is good transdermal absorption promoter while keeping moisture. The nutrient can be used together with other nutrient components to achieve the more ideal effect of promoting nutrient absorption. Hyaluronic acid can be used in cosmetic cream, honey, milk, facial mask, shampoo, etc. for keeping moisture of skin and hair, moistening skin and hair, increasing luster, and preventing chapped skin and wrinkle.
The chemical name of glycerol is glycerol, which is a colorless transparent viscous liquid, odorless and sweet. It is the earliest humectant used in cosmetics and is most commonly used at present. The glycerin molecule contains three-OH which forms hydrogen bonds with water molecules to bind water, thereby playing a good role in moisture absorption and moisture preservation, having obvious moisture function on human skin and hair and increasing the solubility of other components in the cosmetic. Glycerin is widely used in various cosmetics to supplement moisture to the skin stratum corneum, regulate the physiological action of the skin, keep the skin healthy, and improve the feeling of use.
The moisturizing agent is a mixture of hyaluronic acid and glycerin, and the hyaluronic acid has a good anti-wrinkle repair effect besides a good moisturizing effect, promotes absorption of nutrient components, and keeps skin moist; the glycerol has high hydroxyl content, good hydrophilic performance of the hydroxyl and high compatibility with skin.
Further, the anti-wrinkle component comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.1 part of collagenase.
Further, the preservative comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.036 part of isoprene glycol, 0.096 part of caprylyl glycol, 0.132 part of 1, 2-hexanediol, 0.324 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0.612 part of dipropylene glycol.
The addition of the preservative is small, the dosage is far lower than the specified preservative limit value, the effective components of the moisturizing and anti-wrinkle face cream are hardly inhibited, the skin affinity is high, the bacteriostatic effect can be improved by matching the five preservatives, the five preservative substances have good compatibility, and the combined preservative has better bacteriostatic and preservative effects.
Further, the pH regulator comprises the following components in parts by weight: arginine 0.19 parts
The arginine has the main functions of a pH regulator and a humectant in cosmetics and skin care products, is safe and can be used at ease, and arginine has no pox-causing property. Belongs to basic amino acid, is mainly used for conditioning dry skin in cosmetics, and can keep skin moisture, smooth skin and reduce the peeling of scurf by the synergistic effect of fruit acid, trehalose and the like with the moisture-keeping effect. Arginine is also the most commonly used cosmetic nutritional aid.
Further, the thickening agent consists of the following components in parts by weight: carbomer 980: 0.32 part.
Further, the solvent consists of the following components in parts by weight: 76.86 parts of distilled water.
Further, the preparation method of the collagenase cream comprises the following steps:
s 1: weighing the raw materials according to the weight ratio;
s 2: heating and stirring an emulsifier and emollient oil in a water bath at 80 ℃ to obtain an oil phase solution;
s 3: stirring and dissolving the humectant, the preservative, the pH regulator and the solvent in a water bath at 80 ℃ to obtain an aqueous phase solution; adding xanthan gum into the aqueous solution prepared by other substances, continuously stirring, adding the thickening agent, and continuously stirring until the xanthan gum is completely dissolved;
s 4: slowly adding the oil phase solution into the water phase solution, homogenizing and emulsifying for 3 min; rotation speed 10000-;
s 5: and (3) continuously stirring, adding the anti-wrinkle and speckle-fading components when the mixture is cooled to 40-50 ℃, and fully stirring to uniformly mix the components to obtain the anti-wrinkle and moisturizing cream.
Advantageous effects
The invention discloses a collagenase anti-wrinkle face cream, which takes collagenase as a main anti-wrinkle functional component, has extremely strong collagen swelling effect on the premise of not degrading collagen fibers, and is added into a skin care product to achieve the anti-wrinkle effect. The safe and pure anti-aging wrinkle-removing skin care product is produced by utilizing the extremely strong collagen swelling effect of collagenase, the vacancy of the market for biological high-tech wrinkle-removing products can be made up, and the strong demands of consumers on the products can be met.
The anti-wrinkle spot-fading cream is added with an emulsifier, skin moistening grease, a humectant, an anti-wrinkle spot-fading component, a preservative, a pH regulator and a solvent to prepare the cream, and a small amount of preservative is added to prolong the service time of the cream; the addition amount of the emollient grease and the humectant ensures that the cream has a lubricating effect and a good moisturizing effect; the anti-wrinkle component is a main functional component in the face cream, has a good repairing effect on skin aging, and promotes skin regeneration.
The skin moistening oil is a composition of three substances, the three skin moistening substances have good skin moistening and moisturizing effects, squalane is less animal oil which is high in chemical stability and excellent in using sense, has good affinity to the skin, cannot cause allergy and irritation, can accelerate other active ingredients in a formula to permeate into the skin, has low polarity and moderate spreadability, and has the characteristics of good antibacterial effect, good moisturizing affinity and high stability.
The moisturizing agent is a mixture of hyaluronic acid and glycerin, and the hyaluronic acid has a good anti-wrinkle repair effect besides a good moisturizing effect, promotes absorption of nutrient components, and keeps skin moist; the glycerol has high hydroxyl content, good hydrophilic performance of the hydroxyl and high compatibility with skin.
Essence, pigment and Chinese herbal medicine or plant extract are not added in the anti-wrinkle face cream, wherein the essence and the pigment are not added, so that the irritation of the face cream is reduced, and the face cream is milder to skin.
Detailed Description
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. Before the description is made, it should be understood that the terms used in the present specification and the appended claims should not be construed as limited to general and dictionary meanings, but interpreted based on the meanings and concepts corresponding to technical aspects of the present invention on the basis of the principle that the inventor is allowed to define terms appropriately for the best explanation. Accordingly, the description proposed herein is just a preferable example for the purpose of illustrations only, not intended to limit the scope of the invention, so it should be understood that other equivalents and modifications could be made thereto without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.
The following examples are given by way of illustration of embodiments of the invention and are not to be construed as limiting the invention, and it will be understood by those skilled in the art that modifications may be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Unless otherwise specified, reagents and equipment used in the following examples are commercially available products.
Example 1 determination of enzyme Activity of collagenase
The collagenase enzyme activity determination method comprises the following steps: the yield of 1. mu. mol leucine produced per ml of enzyme at 37 ℃ for 1h was one enzyme activity unit.
Taking I type bovine collagen fiber as a substrate, wherein the reaction system is that 1 mL of diluted collagenase is added into 100 mg bovine collagen fiber to carry out oscillation reaction in a combined type full-temperature oscillator at 37 ℃ for 1h (37 ℃, 250 rpm), 1 mL of 0.4 mol/L TCA inactivated enzyme is added after the reaction is finished, the mixture is centrifuged at 12000rpm for 10min, and the supernatant is taken;
and (3) determining the hydrolysis degree of the sample: diluting 100 μ L of the enzyme-hydrolyzed sample supernatant with one time, adding 200 μ L of ninhydrin-sodium citrate buffer, and heating at 93 deg.C for 20 min; 50 μ L of the reaction solution was added to 100 μ L of 50% n-propanol, and after mixing, the OD value was measured at a wavelength of 570 nm.
And (3) calculating: combining with a leucine standard curve, and determining the amount of free amino groups of the hydrolysate; the enzyme activity of the collagenase can be obtained by multiplying the dilution times of the enzymolysis samples by the dilution times of the enzyme solution. (zero adjustment with blank group)
The enzyme activities of keratinase and collagenase are accurately determined, according to a collagen swelling test and a cytotoxicity test which are determined in the early stage of a laboratory, a comprehensive screened face cream which has a better collagenase dilution multiple and a critical dilution multiple with a disappearing swelling effect is prepared by respectively testing the lowest dilution multiple without adding collagenase and with the collagenase dilution multiples of 4, 16 and 40, and the accurate concentration of the added collagenase needs to be determined so as to prevent the situation that the enzyme is not completely enzymolyzed to cause the expected anti-wrinkle effect or cause the excessive damage of the local skin when the enzyme is excessive if the enzyme amount is insufficient.
The following is the concentration gradient of the selected collagenase preparation:
a first group: the concentration was 0g/mL without adding collagenase powder.
Second group: the dilution factor of collagenase is 4 times, and the concentration of collagenase is 1X10-3g/mL。
Third group: the dilution factor of collagenase is 16 times, and the concentration of collagenase is 2.5X10-4g/mL。
And a fourth group: the dilution factor of collagenase is 40 times, and the concentration of collagenase is 1X10-4g/mL。
Example 2
An anti-wrinkle face cream comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1 part of glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate, 1 part of wax stearyl alcohol, 0.5 part of petrolatum, 5 parts of squalane, 0.5 part of silicone oil, 0.05 part of hyaluronic acid, 2 parts of glycerol, 0.05 part of collagenase, 0.01 part of isoprene glycol, 0.05 part of caprylyl glycol, 0.1 part of 1, 2-hexanediol, 0.1 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.5 part of dipropylene glycol, 0.1 part of arginine, 0.1 part of carbomer 980 and 50 parts of distilled water.
Example 3
An anti-wrinkle face cream comprises the following components in parts by weight: 3 parts of glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate, 3 parts of wax stearyl alcohol, 2 parts of petrolatum, 15 parts of squalane, 2 parts of silicone oil, 1.5 parts of hyaluronic acid, 6 parts of glycerol, 2 parts of collagenase, 0.5 part of isoprene glycol, 0.1 part of octyl glycol, 0.2 part of 1, 2-hexanediol, 0.5 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1 part of dipropylene glycol, 0.3 part of arginine, 0.5 part of carbomer 980 and 100 parts of distilled water.
Example 4
An anti-wrinkle face cream comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1.5 parts of glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate, 1.5 parts of wax stearyl alcohol, 1 part of petrolatum, 10 parts of squalane, 1 part of silicone oil, 0.1 part of hyaluronic acid, 4 parts of glycerol, 0.1 part of collagenase according to any one of claims 1 to 3, 0.036 part of isoprene glycol, 0.096 part of octyl glycol, 0.132 part of 1, 2 hexanediol, 0.324 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.612 part of dipropylene glycol, 0.19 part of arginine, 9800.32 parts of carbomer, and 76.86 parts of distilled water.
Experimental example 1
To determine the optimal collagenase addition, the clinical test was performed on the four different concentration gradient collagenase preparations selected in example 3, and the specific test was as follows:
(1) subject: 40 volunteer subjects of 32-48 years old were selected and randomly divided into 4 groups of 20 subjects, each group, test group and control group.
(2) The experimental method comprises the following steps: the test group testers are subjected to face cleaning treatment before sleeping at night, and then the face cream added with collagenase is uniformly smeared on the face, wherein the test period is one month. The control group of testers performed face cleaning treatment before sleeping every night, and then the face cream without collagenase was uniformly applied to the face, wherein the test period was one month. The trial results were counted every 7 days and 30 days.
(3) Evaluation criteria: effectively showing that the skin is moist, glossy, rich in elasticity, obviously anti-wrinkle and fine lines are improved; ineffectiveness means that there was no change in skin texture from before the experiment; generally, an improvement in skin quality is indicated, but the effect is not so significant, which is in-between the two.
(4) The experimental results are as follows: the results of the specific experiments are shown in Table 1 below.
TABLE 1 results of the experiments
Adding enzymes with different concentrations into a face cream formula, and confirming the optimal mixture ratio as a second group after repeated experiments: the concentration of collagenase is 2.5X 10-4 g/mL. The formula has good anti-wrinkle effect and no adverse reaction.
The above examples are only intended to illustrate the technical solution of the present invention, but not to limit it; although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the foregoing embodiments, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various changes may be made and equivalents may be substituted for elements thereof; and such modifications or substitutions do not depart from the spirit and scope of the corresponding technical solutions.
Claims (7)
1. An anti-wrinkle face cream is characterized by comprising the following components: emulsifier, emollient oil, humectant, anti-wrinkle component, antiseptic, thickener, pH regulator, solvent, and antiseptic; the anti-wrinkle component comprises collagenase.
2. The anti-wrinkle cream according to claim 1, wherein the emulsifier comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1-3 parts of glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate, and 1-3 parts of wax stearyl alcohol; the skin moistening grease comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.5-2 parts of petrolatum, 5-15 parts of squalane and 0.5-2 parts of silicone oil.
3. The anti-wrinkle cream according to claim 2, wherein the moisturizer comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.05-1.5 parts of hyaluronic acid and 2-6 parts of glycerol; the anti-wrinkle component comprises 0.05-2 parts of collagenase.
4. The anti-wrinkle cream according to claim 3, wherein the preservative comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.01-0.5 part of isoprene glycol, 0.05-0.1 part of caprylyl glycol, 0.1-0.2 part of 1, 2-hexanediol, 0.1-0.5 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 0.5-1 part of dipropylene glycol.
5. The anti-wrinkle cream according to claim 4, wherein the pH regulator is 0.1-0.3 parts of arginine; the thickening agent is 0.1-0.5 part of carbomer 980; the solvent is 50-100 parts of distilled water.
6. The anti-wrinkle cream according to claim 5, comprising the following components in parts by weight: 1.5 parts of glycerol stearate and PEG-100 stearate, 1.5 parts of wax stearyl alcohol, 1 part of petrolatum, 10 parts of squalane, 1 part of silicone oil, 0.1 part of hyaluronic acid, 4 parts of glycerol, 0.1 part of collagenase according to any one of claims 1 to 3, 0.036 part of isoprene glycol, 0.096 part of octyl glycol, 0.132 part of 1, 2 hexanediol, 0.324 part of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 0.612 part of dipropylene glycol, 0.19 part of arginine, 9800.32 parts of carbomer, and 76.86 parts of distilled water.
7. The anti-wrinkle cream according to claim 1, wherein the preparation method comprises the following steps
S1: weighing the raw materials according to the weight ratio;
s2: heating and stirring an emulsifier and emollient oil at 70-85 ℃ to obtain an oil phase solution for later use;
s3: stirring the humectant, the preservative, the pH regulator and the solvent at 70-85 ℃ until all the components are dissolved, adding xanthan gum, continuously stirring, adding the thickener, and continuously stirring until all the components are dissolved to obtain an aqueous phase solution for later use;
s4: slowly adding the oil phase solution obtained from the step S2 into the water phase solution obtained from the step S3, homogenizing and emulsifying;
s5: and continuously stirring, adding the anti-wrinkle spot-fading components when the temperature of the mixture is reduced to 40-50 ℃, and fully stirring to uniformly mix the components to obtain the anti-wrinkle face cream.
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