CN109846740B - Skin care composition and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents

Skin care composition and preparation method and application thereof Download PDF

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CN109846740B
CN109846740B CN201910092986.2A CN201910092986A CN109846740B CN 109846740 B CN109846740 B CN 109846740B CN 201910092986 A CN201910092986 A CN 201910092986A CN 109846740 B CN109846740 B CN 109846740B
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skin care
skin
acid
care product
composition
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CN109846740A (en
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蒋志君
曹青日
于鹤云
陆小娟
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JIANGSU CHANGTAI PHARMACEUTICAL CO Ltd
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Jiang Su Pharmamaxcorp Co ltd
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Abstract

The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, and provides a skin care composition, a preparation method and an application thereof, wherein the composition comprises the following components by weight of 100% of the composition: 0.001-20% (w/w) of pyruvic acid and salts thereof, 0.001-15% (w/w) of ketovaleric acid and derivatives thereof, and 65-90% (w/w) of humectant. The composition disclosed by the invention has the advantages that the oxidation resistance is greatly improved, the capability of repairing damage is realized, and the skin water deficiency state can be effectively improved.

Description

Skin care composition and preparation method and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics and relates to a skin care composition.
Background
Various reasons such as environmental pollution, ultraviolet irradiation and working pressure can cause skin damage, water shortage, oxidation, sensitivity, wrinkles and other problems, so that the requirement of people for skin care is higher and higher.
With the continuous development of skin cosmetology, fine chemical engineering and cosmetic research and development, cosmetics in modern sense (particularly repair skin care products) are not only limited to simple modification and beautification of smell or color of skin, but also endow the cosmetics with more efficacy and safety. For example, certain active ingredients in cosmetics can penetrate the stratum corneum into the skin, and achieve the effect of repairing the skin barrier by changing the structure and function of the skin. However, as people have more and more careful thought about skin care, development of cosmetics with different functions still has a large space.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a skin care composition, which comprises pyruvic acid and salt thereof, ketovaleric acid and derivative thereof and a humectant, and can effectively improve the problems of skin injury, water shortage, oxidation, sensitivity, wrinkles and the like. The invention is realized by the following scheme.
A skin care composition comprising the following components, based on 100% by weight of the composition:
pyruvic acid and its salt 0.001-20% (w/w)
0.001 to 15% (w/w) of ketovaleric acid and derivatives thereof
65-90% (w/w) of a humectant.
The pyruvic acid and the salt thereof are selected from one or more of pyruvic acid, sodium pyruvate, potassium pyruvate, magnesium pyruvate, calcium pyruvate, zinc pyruvate and methyl pyruvate; preferably, the pyruvic acid and the salt thereof are one or more of pyruvic acid, sodium pyruvate and potassium pyruvate;
the ketovaleric acid and the derivatives thereof are selected from one or more of alpha-ketoglutaric acid, beta-ketoglutaric acid, 5-aminolevulinic acid and delta-amino-gamma-ketovaleric acid;
the humectant is selected from one or more of hyaluronic acid, ceramide, allantoin, trehalose, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, glycerol and propylene glycol; preferably, the humectant is one or more of hyaluronic acid, ceramide, allantoin, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate and glycerol;
preferably, the composition comprises, based on 100% by weight of the composition:
pyruvic acid and its salt 10-20% (w/w)
5-15% (w/w) of ketovaleric acid and derivatives thereof
65-85% (w/w) of a humectant.
Pyruvic acid is an important organic small molecule in a biological system, plays an important pivotal role in the metabolism of three major substances and has high safety. Sodium pyruvate is the most common pyruvate, and can directly remove oxygen free radicals in tissues, improve the oxidation resistance of cells, obviously improve the redox state of the cells, prevent cytoplasm vacuolation and maintain the integrity of cell membranes; in addition, sodium pyruvate can be used as a cell nutrient and can also repair damaged cells.
Among ketovaleric acid and its derivatives, alpha-ketoglutaric acid participates in tricarboxylic acid cycle in organism to generate amino acid, and has high safety. Alpha-ketoglutaric acid as a nutritional medicine can be used as a cosmetic ingredient, can be absorbed by facial skin, has a nutritional function on facial skin cells, can be combined with excessive nitrogen in the cells, and has the effects of removing free radicals, fading chloasma, delaying senescence and the like.
Hyaluronic acid is widely distributed in various parts of the human body, and the skin also contains a large amount of hyaluronic acid. The skin aging process of human beings also changes with the content and metabolism of hyaluronic acid, it can improve skin nutrition metabolism, make skin tender and smooth, remove wrinkle, increase elasticity, prevent aging, and is good transdermal absorption enhancer while keeping moisture.
Ceramide is the main constituent (> 50%) of the lipid body among stratum corneum cells existing at the outermost side of human skin, plays an important role in preventing water diffusion and external irritation, and plays a role in protecting skin and moisturizing. Ceramide is a water-soluble lipid substance, can quickly permeate into skin, and is combined with water in stratum corneum to form a net structure to lock water. The cosmetic containing ceramide has effects of enhancing skin antiaging function, keeping skin elastic, smoothing and refining, and reducing facial wrinkle formation.
Allantoin can promote cell growth, promote cell metabolism, accelerate wound healing, soften keratin, is an amphoteric compound, can combine with multiple substances to form double salt, has the effects of keeping out of the sun, sterilizing, preventing corrosion, relieving pain, resisting oxidation, and keeping skin moisture, moist and soft, and is a specific additive for cosmetics.
The sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate is a substance naturally existing in skin, is an amino acid derivative, has high moisture retention, good stability, no irritation to skin and eyes, no pore blockage, high safety, is an ideal natural cosmetic health care product for modern skin and hair care, and can enable skin and hair to have wettability, softness, elasticity, glossiness and antistatic property. Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate is also an excellent skin whitening agent, has an inhibitory effect on the activity of tyrosine oxidase, and can prevent the deposition of 'melanoid' in the skin, thereby whitening the skin.
In a second aspect, there is provided a process for the preparation of the composition of the invention, comprising mixing the components in the specified amounts.
In a third aspect, there is provided a use of the composition of the present invention in the preparation of a skin care product, wherein the skin care product is a mask, a lotion, a serum, a lotion, a moisturizer, an eye cream or a lipstick. The skin care product can be applied to the face, around the eyes, hands and feet or other desired parts of the body to improve skin damage, water deficit, oxidation, sensitivity, wrinkles, aging, etc.
In a fourth aspect, the skin care product comprises the composition, and the mass content of the composition in the skin care product is 2-15%.
Preferably, the skin care product further comprises one or more of a surfactant, a pH adjuster, a complexing agent, a preservative, an antioxidant, a solubilizer, a defoamer, an emulsifier, a skin emollient, a thickener, a humectant, a fragrance, and a solvent.
Preferably, the skin care product is a water agent, a cream, an emulsion or a powder. Further preferably, the skin care product is a mask, lotion, essence, emulsion, moisturizer, eye cream, or lipstick.
The composition combines pyruvic acid and salt thereof, ketovaleric acid and derivatives thereof and the humectant for use, so that the oxidation resistance of the combination of pyruvic acid and salt thereof, ketovaleric acid and derivatives thereof is greatly improved, the synergistic effect is obvious, the pyruvic acid and the salts thereof and the ketovaleric acid and the derivatives thereof are both intracellular nutrient substances and have the capability of repairing injury, meanwhile, the humectant is added, the water locking capability of cells can be increased, the problems of skin water shortage and the like are effectively solved, the water-oil balance of skin can be adjusted, the skin elasticity is recovered, the aging is delayed and the like.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be further described with reference to the following specific examples, but the scope of the present invention is not limited to the following examples, and any equivalent variations based on the technical solutions of the present invention are within the scope of the present invention.
In the following examples, reagents and instruments used are all conventional in the art and are commercially available, and methods used are all conventional in the art, and those skilled in the art can clearly perform the experiments and obtain the corresponding results according to the contents of the examples, unless otherwise specified.
Example 1: preparation of facial mask
The skin care product of this example was prepared according to the formulation of table 1, and a mask was prepared.
Table 1: example 1 formulation
Figure BDA0001963796280000031
Figure BDA0001963796280000041
The preparation steps are as follows:
[1] purified water with the amount of 80 percent of the prescription amount is added into a liquid preparation tank;
[2] adding sodium pyruvate, alpha-ketoglutaric acid, ceramide, hyaluronic acid, glycerol and EDTA-2Na, and stirring until completely dissolving;
[3] heating and stirring a small amount of water to dissolve PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, adding phenoxyethanol, methylparaben and essence, stirring and dissolving, and adding into the solution;
[4] regulating the pH value of the solution to 6.0-7.0 by using triethanolamine;
[5] adding purified water to the amount of the prescription to obtain the product.
Soaking the facial mask paper in the above solution, and packaging.
Example 2: preparation of essence water
The serum of this example was prepared according to the formula of table 2:
table 2: formulation of example 2
Figure BDA0001963796280000042
Figure BDA0001963796280000051
The formulation procedure for example 2 was as follows:
[1] purified water with the amount of 80 percent of the prescription amount is added into a liquid preparation tank;
[2] adding sodium pyruvate, alpha-ketoglutaric acid, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, hyaluronic acid, adenosine, ascorbic acid glucoside, glycerol, EDTA-2Na and hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid, and stirring until completely dissolving;
[3] dissolving PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate in water, adding polydimethylsiloxane and phenoxyethanol, heating and stirring to dissolve, and adding into the above solution;
[4] adjusting the pH value of the solution to 6.0-7.0 by using sodium citrate;
[5] adding purified water to the formula amount, and filling.
Example 3: preparation of cream
The skin care product of this example was prepared according to the formulation of table 3.
Table 3: formulation of example 3
Figure BDA0001963796280000052
Figure BDA0001963796280000061
The formulation procedure for example 3 was as follows:
[1] adding purified water with the formula amount into a liquid preparation tank, adding sodium pyruvate, alpha-ketoglutaric acid, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, allantoin, glycerol and triethanolamine, stirring and dissolving to obtain an aqueous phase solution;
[2] adding glyceryl stearate, polydimethylsiloxane, cetostearyl alcohol, ethylhexyl palmitate, PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane, polysiloxane-8, phenoxyethanol, disteardimonium hectorite and tocopherol acetate, heating and stirring to dissolve completely to obtain oil phase solution;
[3] adding the oil phase solution into the water phase solution, and emulsifying by using a high-shear homogeneous emulsifier; [4] and filling the obtained cream.
Example 4: preparation of the emulsion
Emulsions were prepared according to the formulation of table 4.
Table 4: formulation of emulsion
Figure BDA0001963796280000062
Figure BDA0001963796280000071
The formulation procedure for example 4 was as follows:
[1] adding purified water with the formula amount into a liquid preparation tank, adding sodium pyruvate, alpha-ketoglutaric acid, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, sodium hyaluronate, propylene glycol, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl sulfosulfonate and triethanolamine, stirring and dissolving to obtain a water phase solution;
[2] adding phospholipid, glyceryl stearate, polydimethylsiloxane, cetearyl alcohol, ethylhexyl palmitate, PEG-100 stearate, polysiloxane-8, tocopherol, and phenoxyethanol, heating and stirring to dissolve completely to obtain oil phase solution;
[3] adding the oil phase solution into the water phase solution, and emulsifying by using a high-shear homogeneous emulsifier;
[4] and filling the obtained emulsion.
Example 5: testing of the moisturizing Effect of products
The samples of example 1, example 2, example 3 and example 4 were administered to 30 volunteers, respectively, with example 1 being administered 3 times per week for 1 month continuously, and examples 2, 3 and 4 being administered 1 time per day, morning and evening for one month continuously, during which the use of other skin care products was discontinued.
The skin moisture content of the volunteers before and after the test is respectively measured by using a JC08-SHM100 skin oil moisture melanin tester, and the average data is as follows:
table 5: the product has moisturizing effect
Test group Water content before test Water content after test
Example 1 28.3±2.3 48.8±3.1
Example 2 30.1±1.8 55.2±2.7
Example 3 30.6±1.6 59.0±2.9
Example 4 29.2±2.1 58.4±3.0
From this data, examples 1, 2, 3 and 4 all showed good skin moisturizing effect.
Example 6: antioxidant action test of the product
Table 6: prescription of reference group
Figure BDA0001963796280000072
Figure BDA0001963796280000081
A control composition was prepared according to table 6, wherein control a had a formulation without the addition of sodium pyruvate and α -ketoglutaric acid, and the remaining materials and amounts were in accordance with example 1; the formula of the control group B is that sodium pyruvate is not added, and the other materials and the using amount are consistent with those of the example 1; the formulation of control group C was without alpha-ketoglutaric acid added, and the remaining materials and amounts were the same as in example 1. The preparation process of control group A, control group B and control group C was the same as example 1.
Comparing the radical scavenging abilities of the samples of control group a, control group B, control group C and example 1, in combination with the hydroxyl radical scavenging ability assay (DPPH method), it was detected that the radical scavenging rate of control group a was 5.1%, the radical scavenging rate of control group B was 11.6%, the radical scavenging rate of control group C was 20.3%, and the radical scavenging rate of example 1 was 39.4%. The radical clearance rate of example 1 is 6.96 times that of control group A, which shows that the oxidation resistance of the composition is far greater than that of the composition without the addition of pyruvic acid and salts thereof, ketovaleric acid and derivatives thereof; the free radical clearance rate of the example 1 is far greater than the sum of the numerical values of the control group B and the control group C, which shows that the antioxidant capacity of the composition is also obviously better than that of the composition only added with pyruvic acid and the salt thereof or only added with ketovaleric acid and the derivative thereof, so that the antioxidant capacity of the composition is greatly improved when the pyruvic acid and the salt thereof, the ketovaleric acid and the derivative thereof are used in combination. And the humectant is combined, so that the water locking capacity of cells is improved, and the problem of skin water shortage is effectively solved.

Claims (4)

1. The skin care product comprises a skin care composition with the mass content of 2-15%, wherein the skin care composition comprises the following components in percentage by weight based on 100% of the weight of the skin care composition:
10-20% of sodium pyruvate;
5-15% of alpha-ketoglutaric acid;
65-85% of a humectant;
wherein the humectant is selected from one or more of hyaluronic acid, ceramide, allantoin, trehalose, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, glycerol and propylene glycol.
2. The skin care product of claim 1, wherein the skin care product further comprises one or more of a surfactant, a pH adjuster, a complexing agent, a preservative, an antioxidant, an emulsifier, a skin emollient, a thickener, a humectant, a fragrance, and a solvent.
3. The skin care product of claim 2, wherein the skin care product is a water, cream, emulsion or powder.
4. The skin care product according to claim 2, wherein the skin care product is a mask, lotion, essence, emulsion, moisturizer, eye cream, or lipstick.
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CN111265505A (en) * 2020-03-09 2020-06-12 上海中医药大学附属岳阳中西医结合医院 New application of pyruvic acid
CN112370415B (en) * 2020-11-24 2022-04-22 杭州百芮生物科技有限公司 Quick-acting pore-shrinking composition and preparation method thereof
CN114081851A (en) * 2021-11-01 2022-02-25 苏州纳美特生物科技有限公司 Moisture-keeping spray
CN115813784A (en) * 2022-11-28 2023-03-21 麦吉丽生物科技有限公司 Application of alpha-ketoglutaric acid and rice fermentation liquor containing alpha-ketoglutaric acid in preparation of skin inflammation inhibitor

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Address after: 225300 No.1, South Batang Road, China medicine city, Taizhou City, Jiangsu Province

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