CN113718400A - Wool blended woven right twill small jacquard fabric and weaving process thereof - Google Patents
Wool blended woven right twill small jacquard fabric and weaving process thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN113718400A CN113718400A CN202111092261.7A CN202111092261A CN113718400A CN 113718400 A CN113718400 A CN 113718400A CN 202111092261 A CN202111092261 A CN 202111092261A CN 113718400 A CN113718400 A CN 113718400A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D21/00—Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
- D03D15/217—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based natural from plants, e.g. cotton
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
- D03D15/225—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based artificial, e.g. viscose
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/233—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads protein-based, e.g. wool or silk
- D03D15/235—Cashmere or silk
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/10—Bamboo
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
- D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/02—Wool
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D10B2321/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated nitriles, e.g. polyacrylonitrile, polyvinylidene cyanide
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/14—Dyeability
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Abstract
A wool blended weaving right twill mini-jacquard fabric and a weaving process thereof are used for weaving the right twill mini-jacquard fabric, the fabric warp is cationic polyester fiber, Jacell fiber, 18.4tex compact siro spinning yarn with wool fiber of 45:40:15, and the weft is bamboo fiber, 18.4tex ring spinning yarn with acrylon of 60: 40; the warp density of the fabric is 464.5 per 10 cm of warp in-direction warp yarns, and the weft density of the fabric is 295 per 10 cm of warp in-direction weft yarns; the width of the cloth width is 208.5 cm; the fabric weave is 2 upper twill, 2 lower twill and right twill; the weaving process comprises warping, slashing, denting and weaving. The invention adopts five fiber blending to weave the jacquard fabric by different warp and weft yarns, the fabric integrates the characteristics of the five fibers into a whole, so that the fabric feels more comfortable, is more suitable for dyeing of deep color dye, and can be widely applied to the production of high-grade uniform.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of weaving production, in particular to a wool blended weaving right twill small jacquard fabric and a weaving process thereof.
Background
At present, in the existing textile weaving technology, a plurality of fibers are blended to realize the multifunction of the fabric, and the method is various and can basically meet the manufacturing requirements of different clothes. The wool product is widely accepted by customers due to the advantages of warmth retention, soft wool, good elasticity, strong heat insulation and the like, forms a high-end consumer market, and meanwhile, the wool blended product can integrate the advantages of various materials, and the fabric has the advantages of wool feeling, high tensile strength and low cost. However, the wool blended fabric has the problem of unsatisfactory dyeing effect caused by different dyeing and color absorbing capacities of different types of fibers.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to overcome the defects of the prior art, the invention aims to provide the wool blended weaving right twill mini-jacquard fabric and the weaving process thereof, which integrates the characteristics of wool fibers, bamboo fibers, cationic polyester fibers, Jacell fibers and acrylic fibers, and enables the fabric to feel more comfortable.
In order to realize the purpose, the wool blended woven right twill jacquard fabric comprises five fibers, namely cationic polyester fiber, Jacell fiber, wool fiber, bamboo fiber and acrylic fiber; the fabric warp is compact siro spinning yarn, the blending ratio of cationic polyester fiber, Jacel fiber and wool fiber of the fabric warp is 45:40:15, and the weight of the compact siro spinning yarn with the yarn count of 1000 meters is 18.4 g when the official moisture regain is 8.5%; the weft yarns are ring spun yarns, the blending ratio of the bamboo fibers and the acrylic fibers of the fabric weft yarns is 60:40, and the weight of the 1000 m long ring spun yarns is 18.4 g when the official moisture regain is 8.5%; the warp density of the fabric is 464.5 per 10 cm of weft-in warp yarn number, and the weft density of the fabric is 295 per 10 cm of warp-in weft yarn number; the width of the cloth width is 208.5 cm; the weave is 2-over-2-under-right twill.
The invention also provides a weaving process of the wool blended weaving right twill small jacquard fabric, which comprises the following steps:
(1) a warping process: using a batch warping machine ZS98 model of Benning G company, Switzerland, leading compact siro spinning warps of cationic polyester fiber/Jacsell/wool/(45/40/15) 18.4tex (meaning that the blending ratio of the cationic polyester fiber, the Jacsell fiber and the wool fiber is 45:40:15, the weight of compact siro spinning yarns with 1000 meters of yarn counts at a official moisture regain of 8.5 percent is 18.4 g) from original cheese to uniformly form sheet yarns, controlling the average value of warping tension to be 16.25-16.50 cN and setting the speed of the warping machine to be 400 m/min;
the total number of warp beams is 9702, the warping number is 693 multiplied by 14, which means that each warp beam head is 693, and the total number is 14; setting the warping length of each beam to be 950 meters according to the preset weaving number of the product; wherein the number of the edge yarns is 138 multiplied by 2, which indicates that the number of the edge yarns at two sides of the weaving shaft is 138 respectively;
(2) a size mixing procedure: the Dongtai textile accessory factory SGA901B type double-speed size mixing barrel is adopted for size mixing, and the size formula is as follows: 30 kg of PVA-1799 starch slurry, 75 kg of A-696 modified starch, 20 kg of polyacrylic acid glue, 1 kg of wax sheet and 3 kg of antistatic agent; the size mixing volume is 720-730 liters, the viscosity of the slurry is 12.0-14.0 Pa.s, and the viscosity of the slurry tank is 8.0-9.0 Pa.s;
(3) sizing: adopting a Jintian colt sizing HS-20 type sizing machine, pressing sizing by single immersion and double pressing, wherein the working parameters of the sizing machine are as follows: the slashing and the grouting force of the No. 1, No. 2 and No. 3 grouting rollers are 1.8-2.0 kilonewtons, the slashing and the grouting force of the No. 4 and No. 5 grouting rollers are 1.5-1.8 kilonewtons, the steam pressure is 0.30-0.65 MPa, the temperature of a stock chest is 90-92 ℃, the temperature of a main cylinder is 35-100 ℃, the temperature of a pre-cylinder is 95-135 ℃, the upper rate is controlled to be 11.0-12.0%, the moisture regain is 6.0-7.0%, the elongation of yarns is controlled to be 1.0% or less, and the highest vehicle speed is 55 m/min;
the distance between the disks of the driving shaft is 2090 mm, the length of the ink mark is 42.8 m, and the tension of the slashing is 2900N;
(4) a reeding process: the warp yarns sequentially pass through a dropper, a harness wire and a reed according to a method specified by the following fabric process requirements, and the specific passing method comprises the following steps:
firstly, a drawing-in sheet threading method: 1. 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 pages are penetrated in sequence;
secondly, harness wire threading:
the ground tissue: 1. 2, 3 and 4 pages are penetrated in sequence, and the circulation is finished until the ground tissue is finished;
and (3) edge organization:
left:
5.6.5.6.5.6+55.6.5.66+1.2.3.4+55.6.5.66+1.2.3.4+55.6.5.66+1.2.3.4
(6) (12) (6) (24) (6)
+55.6.5.66+1.2.3.4+55.6.5.66
(24 pieces) (6 pieces) (24 pieces)
And (3) right:
55.6.5.66+1.2.3.4+55.6.5.66+1.2.3.4+55.6.5.66+1.2.3.4+55.6.5.66
(24) (6) (24)
+1.2.3.4+55.6.5.66+5.6.5.6.5.6
(6 pieces) (12 pieces) (24 pieces)
Wherein, the numbers represent that the warp yarns penetrate through the heald frame of the page, the space between "+" and "+" only represents the spacing effect, and 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 represent the page numbers of the warp yarns and the heald frames;
thirdly, reeding: 2 pieces of ground weave warp yarns are arranged, 3 pieces of edge weave warp yarns are arranged, and 1, 2, 3 and 4 pieces of waste edge yarns are reserved;
reed number: 117# Reed;
fourthly, the number of heald frames per page is as follows: sheets 2373 at pages 1 and 2, sheets 2365 at pages 3 and 4, and sheets 78 at pages 5 and 6;
(5) weaving: adopting a Jintian colt ZAX-E-210 type multi-arm air-jet loom, setting the angle value of a main shaft of the loom to be 290 degrees when the multi-arm air-jet loom is fully healed, setting the let-off time to be 310 degrees of the angle value of the main shaft of the loom during the fully healed, controlling the let-off tension to be 2000-2300 newtons, and controlling the speed to be 550 revolutions per minute; by adopting a production process of 'early opening, small tension and large opening', the back beam is positioned at the position with the grid number of No. 1 and the height of 90 mm, the warp stop frame is positioned at the position with the grid number of No. 2.1 and the height of No. 2.5 and the front and back positions of 8 grids, and the back beam is pushed forwards; through the matching of five systems of opening, weft insertion, beating-up, reeling-up and warp let-off, the warp and weft yarns are interwoven according to a designed weave pattern to form a fabric; the temple adopts a 30-ring conventional model, and the holding strength of the fabric is increased.
The first and second groups of air jet set time of the dobby air jet loom in the weaving process: setting the angle value of the main shaft of the weaving machine at the integrated level to be 30-260 degrees by the weft stop pin; the angle value of the main shaft of the loom is 70-180 degrees when the main nozzle is integrated; the angle value of the main shaft of the loom is 80-180 degrees when the auxiliary nozzle is integrated; the angle value of the main shaft of the weaving machine when the weft yarn reaches the target heald is 76-240 degrees.
Compared with the prior art, the invention adopts five fiber blending to weave the jacquard fabric with different warp and weft yarns, the fabric integrates the characteristics of the five fibers, and the fabric adopts 2 upper twill structures, 2 lower twill structures and 2 right twill structures, so that the fabric feels more comfortable, the additional value of the fabric is increased, and the development depth of the fabric product is expanded; the after-finishing can be used for printing and dyeing the deep color fabric, is more suitable for dyeing deep color dyes, expands the development scope of deep color textiles, has the characteristics of high accessory value and high market popularization value, and can be widely applied to the production of high-grade uniforms.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic representation of the weave of the present invention.
Detailed Description
As shown in figure 1, the wool blended woven right twill jacquard fabric comprises five fibers of cationic polyester fiber, Jacell fiber, wool fiber, bamboo fiber and acrylic fiber; the fabric warp is compact siro spinning yarn, the blending ratio of cationic polyester fiber, Jacel fiber and wool fiber of the fabric warp is 45:40:15, and the weight of the compact siro spinning yarn with the yarn count of 1000 meters is 18.4 g when the official moisture regain is 8.5%; the weft yarns are ring spun yarns, the blending ratio of the bamboo fibers and the acrylic fibers of the fabric weft yarns is 60:40, and the weight of the 1000 m long ring spun yarns is 18.4 g when the official moisture regain is 8.5%; the warp density of the fabric is 464.5 per 10 cm of weft-in warp yarn number, and the weft density of the fabric is 295 per 10 cm of warp-in weft yarn number; the width of the cloth width is 208.5 cm; the weave is 2-over-2-under-right twill.
The weaving process of the right twill small jacquard fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) a warping process: using a batch warping machine ZS98 model of Benning G company, Switzerland, leading compact siro spinning warps of cationic polyester fiber/Jacsell/wool/(45/40/15) 18.4tex (meaning that the blending ratio of the cationic polyester fiber, the Jacsell fiber and the wool fiber is 45:40:15, the weight of compact siro spinning yarns with 1000 meters of yarn counts at a official moisture regain of 8.5 percent is 18.4 g) from original cheese to uniformly form sheet yarns, controlling the average value of warping tension to be 16.25-16.50 cN and setting the speed of the warping machine to be 400 m/min;
the total number of warp beams is 9702, the warping number is 693 multiplied by 14, which means that each warp beam head is 693, and the total number is 14; setting the warping length of each beam to be 950 meters according to the preset weaving number of the product; wherein the number of the edge yarns is 138 multiplied by 2, which indicates that the number of the edge yarns at two sides of the weaving shaft is 138 respectively;
(2) a size mixing procedure: the Dongtai textile accessory factory SGA901B type double-speed size mixing barrel is adopted for size mixing, and the size formula is as follows: 30 kg of PVA-1799 starch slurry, 75 kg of A-696 modified starch, 20 kg of polyacrylic acid glue, 1 kg of wax sheet and 3 kg of antistatic agent; the size mixing volume is 720-730 liters, the viscosity of the slurry is 12.0-14.0 Pa.s, and the viscosity of the slurry tank is 8.0-9.0 Pa.s;
(3) sizing: adopting a Jintian colt sizing HS-20 type sizing machine, pressing sizing by single immersion and double pressing, wherein the working parameters of the sizing machine are as follows: the slashing and the grouting force of the No. 1, No. 2 and No. 3 grouting rollers are 1.8-2.0 kilonewtons, the slashing and the grouting force of the No. 4 and No. 5 grouting rollers are 1.5-1.8 kilonewtons, the steam pressure is 0.30-0.65 MPa, the temperature of a stock chest is 90-92 ℃, the temperature of a main cylinder is 35-100 ℃, the temperature of a pre-cylinder is 95-135 ℃, the upper rate is controlled to be 11.0-12.0%, the moisture regain is 6.0-7.0%, the elongation of yarns is controlled to be 1.0% or less, and the highest vehicle speed is 55 m/min;
the distance between the disks of the driving shaft is 2090 mm, the length of the ink mark is 42.8 m, and the tension of the slashing is 2900N;
(4) a reeding process: the warp yarns sequentially pass through a dropper, a harness wire and a reed according to a method specified by the following fabric process requirements, and the specific passing method comprises the following steps:
firstly, a drawing-in sheet threading method: 1. 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 pages are penetrated in sequence;
secondly, harness wire threading:
the ground tissue: 1. 2, 3 and 4 pages are penetrated in sequence, and the circulation is finished until the ground tissue is finished;
and (3) edge organization:
left:
5.6.5.6.5.6+55.6.5.66+1.2.3.4+55.6.5.66+1.2.3.4+55.6.5.66+1.2.3.4
(6) (12) (6) (24) (6)
+55.6.5.66+1.2.3.4+55.6.5.66
(24 pieces) (6 pieces) (24 pieces)
And (3) right:
55.6.5.66+1.2.3.4+55.6.5.66+1.2.3.4+55.6.5.66+1.2.3.4+55.6.5.66
(24) (6) (24)
+1.2.3.4+55.6.5.66+5.6.5.6.5.6
(6 pieces) (12 pieces) (24 pieces)
Wherein, the numbers represent that the warp yarns penetrate through the heald frame of the page, the space between "+" and "+" only represents the spacing effect, and 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 represent the page numbers of the warp yarns and the heald frames;
thirdly, reeding: 2 pieces of ground weave warp yarns are arranged, 3 pieces of edge weave warp yarns are arranged, and 1, 2, 3 and 4 pieces of waste edge yarns are reserved;
reed number: 117# Reed;
fourthly, the number of heald frames per page is as follows: sheets 2373 at pages 1 and 2, sheets 2365 at pages 3 and 4, and sheets 78 at pages 5 and 6;
(5) weaving: adopting a Jintian colt ZAX-E-210 type multi-arm air-jet loom, setting the angle value of a main shaft of the loom to be 290 degrees when the multi-arm air-jet loom is fully healed, setting the let-off time to be 310 degrees of the angle value of the main shaft of the loom during the fully healed, controlling the let-off tension to be 2000-2300 newtons, and controlling the speed to be 550 revolutions per minute; by adopting a production process of 'early opening, small tension and large opening', the back beam is positioned at the position with the grid number of No. 1 and the height of 90 mm, the warp stop frame is positioned at the position with the grid number of No. 2.1 and the height of No. 2.5 and the front and back positions of 8 grids, and the back beam is pushed forwards; through the matching of five systems of opening, weft insertion, beating-up, reeling-up and warp let-off, the warp and weft yarns are interwoven according to a designed weave pattern to form a fabric; the temple adopts a 30-ring conventional model, and the holding strength of the fabric is increased.
The first and second air jet set time of the dobby air jet loom in the weaving process: setting the angle value of the main shaft of the weaving machine at the integrated level to be 30-260 degrees by the weft stop pin; the angle value of the main shaft of the loom is 70-180 degrees when the main nozzle is integrated; the angle value of the main shaft of the loom is 80-180 degrees when the auxiliary nozzle is integrated; the angle value of the main shaft of the weaving machine when the weft yarn reaches the target heald is 76-240 degrees.
Claims (3)
1. A wool blended weaving right twill small jacquard fabric and a weaving process thereof are characterized in that: the wool blended woven right twill mini-jacquard fabric comprises five fibers of cationic polyester fiber, Jacell fiber, wool fiber, bamboo fiber and acrylic fiber; the fabric warp is compact siro spinning yarn, the blending ratio of cationic polyester fiber, Jacel fiber and wool fiber of the fabric warp is 45:40:15, and the weight of the compact siro spinning yarn with the yarn count of 1000 meters is 18.4 g when the official moisture regain is 8.5%; the weft yarns are ring spun yarns, the blending ratio of the bamboo fibers and the acrylic fibers of the fabric weft yarns is 60:40, and the weight of the 1000 m long ring spun yarns is 18.4 g when the official moisture regain is 8.5%; the warp density of the fabric is 464.5 per 10 cm of weft-in warp yarn number, and the weft density of the fabric is 295 per 10 cm of warp-in weft yarn number; the width of the cloth width is 208.5 cm; the weave is 2-over-2-under-right twill.
2. The wool blended woven right twill mini-jacquard fabric and the weaving process thereof according to claim 1, characterized in that: the weaving process of the right twill small jacquard fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) a warping process: using a ZS98 batch warping machine of Bening-grid company of Switzerland, leading compact siro spinning warp yarns of which the blending ratio of cationic polyester fibers, Jacobian fibers and wool fibers is 45:40:15 and the weight is 18.4 grams when the official moisture regain of the compact siro spinning yarn with the yarn count of 1000 meters is 8.5 percent, uniformly forming sheet yarns, controlling the average value of warping tension to be 16.25-16.50 centinewtons, and setting the speed of the warping machine to be 400 m/min;
the total warp number is 9702, the warping number is 693 × 14, and each warp head is 693, and total 14; setting the warping length of each beam to be 950 meters according to the preset weaving number of the product; wherein the number of the edge yarns is 138 multiplied by 2, which indicates that the number of the edge yarns at two sides of the weaving shaft is 138 respectively;
(2) a size mixing procedure: the Dongtai textile accessory factory SGA901B type double-speed size mixing barrel is adopted for size mixing, and the size formula is as follows: 30 kg of PVA-1799 starch slurry, 75 kg of A-696 modified starch, 20 kg of polyacrylic acid glue, 1 kg of wax sheet and 3 kg of antistatic agent; the size mixing volume is 720-730 liters, the viscosity of the slurry is 12.0-14.0 Pa.s, and the viscosity of the slurry tank is 8.0-9.0 Pa.s;
(3) sizing: adopting a Jintian colt sizing HS-20 type sizing machine, pressing sizing by single immersion and double pressing, wherein the working parameters of the sizing machine are as follows: the slashing and the grouting force of the No. 1, No. 2 and No. 3 grouting rollers are 1.8-2.0 kilonewtons, the slashing and the grouting force of the No. 4 and No. 5 grouting rollers are 1.5-1.8 kilonewtons, the steam pressure is 0.30-0.65 MPa, the temperature of a stock chest is 90-92 ℃, the temperature of a main cylinder is 35-100 ℃, the temperature of a pre-cylinder is 95-135 ℃, the upper rate is controlled to be 11.0-12.0%, the moisture regain is 6.0-7.0%, the elongation of yarns is controlled to be 1.0% or less, and the highest vehicle speed is 55 m/min;
the distance between the disks of the driving shaft is 2090 mm, the length of the ink mark is 42.8 m, and the tension of the slashing is 2900N;
(4) a reeding process: the warp yarns sequentially pass through a dropper, a harness wire and a reed according to a method specified by the following fabric process requirements, and the specific passing method comprises the following steps:
firstly, a drawing-in sheet threading method: 1. 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 pages are penetrated in sequence;
secondly, harness wire threading:
the ground tissue: 1. 2, 3 and 4 pages are penetrated in sequence, and the circulation is finished until the ground tissue is finished;
and (3) edge organization:
left:
5.6.5.6.5.6+55.6.5.66+1.2.3.4+55.6.5.66+1.2.3.4+55.6.5.66+1.2.3.4
(6) (12) (6) (24) (6)
+55.6.5.66+1.2.3.4+55.6.5.66
(24 pieces) (6 pieces) (24 pieces)
And (3) right:
55.6.5.66+1.2.3.4+55.6.5.66+1.2.3.4+55.6.5.66+1.2.3.4+55.6.5.66
(24) (6) (24)
+1.2.3.4+55.6.5.66+5.6.5.6.5.6
(6 pieces) (12 pieces) (24 pieces)
Wherein, the numbers represent that the warp yarns penetrate through the heald frame of the page, the space between "+" and "+" only represents the spacing effect, and 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 represent the page numbers of the warp yarns and the heald frames;
thirdly, reeding: 2 pieces of ground weave warp yarns are arranged, 3 pieces of edge weave warp yarns are arranged, and 1, 2, 3 and 4 pieces of waste edge yarns are reserved;
reed number: 117# Reed;
fourthly, the number of heald frames per page is as follows: sheets 2373 at pages 1 and 2, sheets 2365 at pages 3 and 4, and sheets 78 at pages 5 and 6;
(5) weaving: adopting a Jintian colt ZAX-E-210 type multi-arm air-jet loom, setting the angle value of a main shaft of the loom to be 290 degrees when the multi-arm air-jet loom is fully healed, setting the let-off time to be 310 degrees of the angle value of the main shaft of the loom during the fully healed, controlling the let-off tension to be 2000-2300 newtons, and controlling the speed to be 550 revolutions per minute; by adopting a production process of 'early opening, small tension and large opening', the back beam is positioned at the position with the grid number of No. 1 and the height of 90 mm, the warp stop frame is positioned at the position with the grid number of No. 2.1 and the height of No. 2.5 and the front and back positions of 8 grids, and the back beam is pushed forwards; through the matching of five systems of opening, weft insertion, beating-up, reeling-up and warp let-off, the warp and weft yarns are interwoven according to a designed weave pattern to form a fabric; the temple adopts a 30-ring conventional model, and the holding strength of the fabric is increased.
3. The wool blended woven right twill mini-jacquard fabric and the weaving process thereof according to claim 1, characterized in that: the first and second groups of air jet set time of the dobby air jet loom in the weaving process: setting the angle value of the main shaft of the weaving machine at the integrated level to be 30-260 degrees by the weft stop pin; the angle value of the main shaft of the loom is 70-180 degrees when the main nozzle is integrated; the angle value of the main shaft of the loom is 80-180 degrees when the auxiliary nozzle is integrated; the angle value of the main shaft of the weaving machine when the weft yarn reaches the target heald is 76-240 degrees.
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