CN106544775B - A kind of process producing all-cotton yarn-dyed bubble jacquard fabric - Google Patents
A kind of process producing all-cotton yarn-dyed bubble jacquard fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN106544775B CN106544775B CN201610909584.3A CN201610909584A CN106544775B CN 106544775 B CN106544775 B CN 106544775B CN 201610909584 A CN201610909584 A CN 201610909584A CN 106544775 B CN106544775 B CN 106544775B
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 66
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 29
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 11
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 26
- 238000004513 sizing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 claims description 21
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 16
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 claims description 13
- 230000009245 menopause Effects 0.000 claims description 12
- 238000010009 beating Methods 0.000 claims description 11
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 claims description 10
- 238000003780 insertion Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- 230000037431 insertion Effects 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000002002 slurry Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 229920002472 Starch Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000006698 induction Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000019698 starch Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000008107 starch Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000009955 starching Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 claims 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 abstract description 9
- 230000008901 benefit Effects 0.000 abstract description 5
- 235000014676 Phragmites communis Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 238000004140 cleaning Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000011248 coating agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000000576 coating method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000005457 optimization Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007812 deficiency Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000013399 edible fruits Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000003760 hair shine Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000035515 penetration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000004243 sweat Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 238000009423 ventilation Methods 0.000 description 1
Classifications
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D21/00—Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D3/00—Woven fabrics characterised by their shape
- D03D3/08—Arched, corrugated, or like fabrics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a kind of processes for producing all-cotton yarn-dyed bubble jacquard cloth, include the following steps: (1) winder;(2) warping;(3) sizing;(4) and axis;(5) drawing-in;(6) it weaves.Technique of the invention is that the difference for the warp run-in for around increasing passing through, steeping warp is formulated, increasing tightening weft resistance is one of the main means for increasing bubble effect, therefore we are when weaving Seersucker, technique is arranged around increase tightening weft resistance, by bubble through a series of measures such as small tension receiving coil, late opening, the low back rest, increase shed open depth, solve the problems, such as how to control bubble ratio, achieve preferable effect, the efficiency of loom is all 88% or more, best board efficiency has reached 93%, achieves preferable economic benefit.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to field of textiles, and in particular to a kind of process for producing all-cotton yarn-dyed bubble jacquard fabric.
Background technique
Seersucker fabric surface irregularity, it is few with skin contact surface, ventilation can be felt when summer wears, and breathe freely, is nice and cool,
In addition figured texture weave makes appearance of fabrics form distinct bubble item and figured stripe pattern, flower-shape is novel, and three-dimensional sense is strong, is widely used in
Summer clothes.
It is single by ground bubble warp, the thickness that passes through it is different, bubble ratio does not exceed 1.06, because also meaning that more than 1.06
When weaving, the elongation of body warp must be over 6% or more, generates 6% retraction under fabric after machine, is likely to generate 1.06
Bubble ratio.When body warp elongation is more than 6%, broken end can be very serious.At good seersucker is steeped, bubble ratio cannot be less than
1.2, promote the increased main method of bubble ratio to be: when weaving seersucker, control bubble warp, through different warp run-ins.
In order to form bubble, technological design carries out in terms of three often: (1) steeping one times thicker than body warp of warp thread, (2) bubble
Warp thread is identical as body warp thickness, and bubble is twice through density, and the weaving of (3) twin shaft provides different warp run-ins.Bubble is through thick or bubble
Big through density, bubble is located the tightness of fabric with regard to big, and tightening weft resistance is big when beating, and bubble warp thread can be moved with weft yarn to fell direction
Dynamic, by repeatedly beating up, weft yarn can just be fixed up, and bubble ratio just will increase;When twin shaft is weaved, bubble is big through warp run-in, and filling density is small,
Ground is big through place's filling density, and bubble will generate bumps through locating fabric, forms bubble.
Summary of the invention
Goal of the invention: in order to solve the deficiencies in the prior art, the present invention provides a kind of production all-cotton yarn-dyed bubble jacquards
The process of fabric.
Technical solution: a kind of process producing all-cotton yarn-dyed bubble jacquard fabric includes the following steps:
(1) winder
1332M type bobbin-winding machine, winding speed 520m/min are selected, the weight of influence of winding tension washer is 7.4 grams, to guarantee
The quality of yarn, it is desirable that use hand held air splicer connector;
(2) warping
Using GA121 type beam warper, speed of beaming control is in 380m/min, using collective's creeling, tension in Warping point
Area control, before being divided into after three regions, 40SWhen body warp warping, proparea washer weight is 10g, middle area 9g, back zone 8g;40S/
When 2 bubbles are through warping, proparea washer weight is 13g, middle area 12g, back zone 11g, and side yarn is 40SSingle line, tension 11g;
Assorted warp thread total quantity of warps is as follows: ground is through bleached yarn 2226, including 48 side yarns, grey dyeing defect are white through 1962
Color is steeped through 872,40SBleached yarn 2226,4 axis are taken, are 556*2+557*2 with axis, grey dyeing defect takes 4 axis through 1962,
It is 490*2+491*2 with axis, it is 436*2,10 axis of total number of axle with axis that white bubble, which takes 2 axis through 872,;
(3) sizing
Warp thread is cotton yarn, does not use PVA slurry, has been able to satisfy production requirement, formula of size are as follows: converted starch 70kg,
AS-02 slurry 30kg, size mixing 750L, relative viscosity 10-11S, the rate of sizing 12%, and squeezing roller pressure uses light industry skill after preceding weight,
Preceding squeezing roller pressure be 16KN, post jacking roller pressure be 10KN, 98 DEG C of sizing temperature, sizing speed 48m/min;Yarn when sizing
There are two types of color, bleached yarn is placed on upper layer, and grey yarn is placed on lower layer, intermediate to be separated with twisted wire;
(4) and axis
Steeping warp thread is 40S/ 2 strands, do not need starching, and two bubble warp beams are merged into a bubble axis on warp rebeaming machine;
(5) drawing-in
The total quantity of warps of this fabric is 5060, and menopause tablet is with 4 rows when weaving;Select the rule of menopause tablet number of rows
Be: when total quantity of warps >=6000~7000 piece, menopause tablet is with 5 rows;And when total quantity of warps >=8000 piece, menopause tablet then uses 6 rows;
When less than 6000 yarns, menopause tablet is with 4 rows;
Heald density: by the analysis to fabric tissue, comprehensive number of pages is page 16, and the warp thread of different motion rule has 12 kinds,
Wherein jacquard weave is with page 10, and bubble is with page 2, and plain weave is with page 4;1st~2 is comprehensive, steeps through 436;3rd~4 is comprehensive, and 40SBleached yarn 556
Root;5th~6 is comprehensive, and 40SBleached yarn 557;7th is comprehensive, and grey dyeing defect is through 981;8th~16 is comprehensive, and every page of heald is 109;
Sequence of gaiting is as follows: (3,4,5,6) × 2, and 3,4,7,8,7,9,7,10,7,11,7,12,7,13,7,14,7,15,
7,16, (5,6,3,4) × 2,5,6, (1,2) × 4;
(6) it weaves
The selection of type: selecting GA747 rapier loom, send bubble to pass through by frictional force, since speed is low, it is clear to be conducive to shed open
Clear, advantageous to weaving, production efficiency all 88% or more, can obtain preferable economic interests;
Twin shaft weaving: there are three types of yarn in this fabric, wherein pass through and spend through 40SSingle thread, the intertwined point of ground warp and flower warp
Number difference be not it is too big, using the same beam of a loom, steep warp thread is 1.34 times of body warp crimp through crimp, through weave shrinkage phase
Difference is very big, and twin shaft is needed to weave, and warp beam uses original let-off motion, and flower warp beam is mounted in the top of warp beam, flower warp beam side
Distance of the disk away from the back rest is about 8-10cm, controls the warp let-off using friction;
Bubble will be placed on heald frame proparea: when this fabric weaves, bubble is used 1-2 piece comprehensive, if bubble is more through radical, is needed
It is comprehensive using page 4, before use page 4 it is comprehensive;The reason of bubble is through being placed on proparea is: bubble is smaller through tension, and shed open is not easy clearly, bubble
It is placed on front, it is clearly advantageous through shed open to steeping;When bubble warp thread is more than page 4 comprehensive, shed open is difficult to opening or cleaning, and difficulty of weaving can be very big,
Therefore, bubble do not exceeded page 4 it is comprehensive;
The control of bubble ratio: in process of production, measuring forward 10cm from fell, mark on body warp, setting bubble
Than being 1.34, then again from fell, 13.4cm is measured forward, makees upper mark on bubble warp thread, driving test weaving checks label, such as
Through being just overlapped in fabric side with the label on body warp, bubble ratio meets the requirements fruit bubble, if the label on seersucker is to the rear, says
Bright bubble ratio is less than normal, needs to reduce spring force, if the label on seersucker is to the front, bubble ratio is bigger than normal, needs to reduce spring force;
Bubble ratio will just can determine that after repeatedly comparing;In production process, bubble ratio respectively to measure sooner or later it is primary, according to bubble ratio size, with
When adjust bubble warp, the tension that passes through;
The speed of loom: the common speed of GA747 loom has jacquard weave group in 180-200 speed r/min, this fabric tissue
It knits, steep tissue, more complicated, it is clear that opening is not easy, therefore to use lower speed, determines that speed is 185r/min;
Evening opening: 310 ° of opening time, opening is early, and weft yarn is easily urgent, and the backwash of fell is small, and to being formed, bubble is unfavorable,
Opening time is slower, and weft yarn is more not easy urgent, and after repeatedly beating up, weft yarn can just be fixed up, and bubble effect is good;But it is open
Time is slow, and shed open is not easy clearly, to influence wefting insertion, by test weaving, determines that opening time is 310 °;
Late wefting insertion: 85 °, into sword, when GA747 loom weaves conventional variety, generally mostly use 75 ° into sword, this fabric weaves
When, late opening process is on the one hand used, it is on the other hand, small through tension due to steeping, when weaving, three jump defects are also easy to produce at fabric side
Point was suitably postponed into the sword time, so that shed open effective height increases when into sword, jumped faults to solve three;
Stroke of harness frames: when this fabric weaves, the stroke of harness frames of body warp is remained unchanged, and the stroke of harness frames for steeping axis suitably increases
Add, bubble warp thread is made, by 1.6-3mm, to drop to 0-0.5mm to the distance of slay, after the stroke of harness frames increase of seersucker, bubble warp thread can
Can be but small through tension due to steeping with slay friction, warp run-in is big, thus influence of the slay to the friction of warp thread to bubble warp compared with
It is small, increase bubble after stroke of harness frames, clearly advantageous to shed open, big through stroke of harness frames due to steeping, bubble warp and ground is not through in same layer
On face, reduce bubble through the friction with ground warp;
Warp tension: the tension weight of a 5kg, the elastic force of tension spring are respectively configured on the tension weight hammer stem on loom both sides
Control bigger than normal, warp tension is big, and weft yarn is not easy urgent, and to advantageous at bubble, GA747 weaving-machine tension induction mechanism is mechanical
, in production process, with the reduction of beam of a loom, upper woven power can be gradually increased, and the technique person for being responsible for technique, early, evening will be examined
The width for looking into fabric side, the width for controlling fabric side is between 154-156cm, if it find that fabric side is partially narrow, to adjust in time
Small warp tension;
Shed open depth: shed open depth is big, and when beating, warp thread is mobile big, is unfavorable for urgent weft yarn, is conducive to fabric blistering,
When this fabric weaves, warp stop frame, in long slot middle position, is moved to outermost position, shed open depth is made to reach maximization by conventional
Position, it is advantageous to blistering.
As optimization: being the fabric of production 40SBleached yarn, jacquard weave part is by grey 40SSingle thread is constituted, white 40S/2
Doublet cord constitutes bubble warp, steeps through individually at axis, being weaved using twin shaft;Weft yarn is 40SMonochrome plus white yarn.
As optimization: the trimmed size of the fabric is as follows: the breadth of finished product is 146cm, and finished product thread count is 346
Root/10cm × 275 piece/10cm, through weave shrinkage: 7.7%, latitude weave shrinkage: 5.4%, the long contracting of dyeing and finishing: 6%, dyeing and finishing width shrinkage:
6.5%.
The utility model has the advantages that the difference that technique of the invention is the warp run-in for around increasing passing through, steeping warp is formulated, increase beating
Resistance is one of the main means for increasing bubble effect, therefore we when weaving Seersucker, technique is beaten around increase
The setting of latitude resistance, by bubble through a series of measures such as small tension receiving coil, late opening, the low back rest, increase shed open depth, solve how
Bubble ratio problem is controlled, achieves preferable effect, all 88% or more, best board efficiency reaches the efficiency of loom
93%, achieve preferable economic benefit.
Jacquard weave element is added in the present invention on the basis of traditional seersucker, and appearance of fabrics is made to form distinct bubble item and jacquard weave
Stripe, flower-shape is novel, and three-dimensional sense is strong.As the cloth textile of summer, which has thin refreshing, sweat proof, washable, resistance to day
It shines, moisture absorption and dissipate the features such as wet.
Detailed description of the invention
Fig. 1 is structural schematic diagram of the invention.
Specific embodiment
The present invention is further explained in the light of specific embodiments.
Embodiment
When this Fabric Design, it is 40 that ground, which passes through,SBleached yarn, jacquard weave part is by grey 40SSingle thread is constituted, white 40S/ 2 doublet cords
Bubble warp is constituted, is steeped through individually at axis, being weaved using twin shaft.Weft yarn is 40SMonochrome plus white yarn.Fabric Design specification: base webs
Wide 155cm, total quantity of warps 5060, base fabric through it is close be 324/10 ㎝.Upper 164 ㎝ of machine reed width, one spends in circulation, and grey mentions
There are 18 warp thread in flower part, and there are 8 warp thread in bubble item part, and there are 20 warp thread in plain weave part, every to spend 46 yarns, every reed penetration number 2
Enter, every colored several 23 teeth of dent, it is 2 few that full width spends number 109 to spend.Warp thread dyed yarn circulation: 40SBleached yarn 10,40SGrey gauze broche
18,40SBleached yarn 10,40S/ 2 white bubbles are through 8.Weft yarn is to add white.The total quantity of warps of assorted warp thread are as follows: bleached yarn
2226 (including 48, side yarn), grey dyeing defect is through 1962, and white bubble is through 872.The looming draft of fabric is as shown in Figure 1.
Production procedure of the invention is as follows:
1 winder
Select 1332M type bobbin-winding machine.High performance automation bobbin-winding machine is not selected, but has selected domestic 1332M
Type bobbin-winding machine.This is because the yarn defect for the dyed yarn bought back, has been removed, the quality of yarn has been met the requirements when winder.Network
Yarn speed is 520m/min, and the weight of influence of winding tension washer is 7.4 grams.For the quality for guaranteeing yarn, it is desirable that empty using hand-held
Gas splicer connector.
2 warpings
Using GA121 type beam warper, in 300-500m/min, this fabric weaves the common speed of beaming of type machine
When speed of beaming control in 380m/min, using collective's creeling, tension in Warping zonal control, before being divided into after three regions,
40SWhen body warp warping, proparea washer weight is for 10g, middle area 9g, back zone 8g;40SWhen/2 bubbles are through warping, proparea washer weight
For 13g, middle area 12g, back zone 11g, side yarn are 40SSingle line, tension 11g.
Assorted warp thread total quantity of warps: ground is through bleached yarn 2226 (including 48 side yarns), and grey dyeing defect is through 1962, white bubble
Through 872,40SBleached yarn 2226,4 axis are taken, are 556*2+557*2 with axis, grey dyeing defect takes 4 axis through 1962, matches axis
For 490*2+491*2, it is 436*2,10 axis of total number of axle with axis that white bubble, which takes 2 axis through 872,.
3 sizing
Warp thread is cotton yarn, does not use PVA slurry, has been able to satisfy production requirement.Formula of size are as follows: converted starch 70kg,
AS-02 slurry 30kg, size mixing 750L, relative viscosity 10-11S, the rate of sizing 12%, and squeezing roller pressure uses light industry skill after preceding weight,
Preceding squeezing roller pressure be 16KN, post jacking roller pressure be 10KN, 98 DEG C of sizing temperature.Sizing speed 48m/min.
Sizing speed cannot be too fast, this is because the rate of sizing is higher, yarn adhesion is more after sizing, and speed is easy to cause disconnected fastly
Head.
Sizing requires to be impregnated with, it is coating lay equal stress on, preceding squeezing roller pressure 16KN, pressure is larger, be in order to obtain and preferably be impregnated with,
Post jacking roller pressure, it is less than normal, it is preferable coating in order to obtain.
Yarn is there are two types of color when sizing, and bleached yarn is placed on upper layer, and grey yarn is placed on lower layer, intermediate to be separated with twisted wire.
4 and axis
Steeping warp thread is 40S/ 2 strands, do not need starching, and two bubble warp beams are merged into a bubble axis on warp rebeaming machine.
5 drawing-ins
The total quantity of warps of this fabric is 5060, and menopause tablet is with 4 rows when weaving;Select the rule of menopause tablet number of rows
Be: when total quantity of warps >=6000~7000 piece, menopause tablet is with 5 rows;And when total quantity of warps >=8000 piece, menopause tablet then uses 6 rows;
When less than 6000 yarns, menopause tablet is with 4 rows.
Heald density: by the analysis to fabric tissue, comprehensive number of pages is page 16, and the warp thread of different motion rule has 12 kinds,
Wherein jacquard weave is with page 10, and bubble is with page 2, and plain weave is with page 4.1st~2 is comprehensive, steeps through 436;3rd~4 is comprehensive, and 40SBleached yarn 556
Root;5th~6 is comprehensive, and 40SBleached yarn 557;7th is comprehensive, and grey dyeing defect is through 981;8th~16 is comprehensive, and every page of heald is 109.
Sequence of gaiting is as follows: (3,4,5,6) × 2, and 3,4,7,8,7,9,7,10,7,11,7,12,7,13,7,14,7,15,
7,16, (5,6,3,4) × 2,5,6, (1,2) × 4.
6 weavings
The selection of type: GA747 rapier loom is selected.When weaving seersucker fabric, if woven using air-jet loom, need
Air-jet loom is transformed, a set of electronic warp feeding mechanism, for installing the earth's axis, another bubble axis is controlled by frictional force, knitted
Small through tension due to steeping when processed, shed open side yarn has an adhesion, when production short latitude to stop platform rate higher;It is woven using heavenly steed rapier loom
When processed, ground is through equally by electronic warp feeding mechanism controls, bubble is controlled via frictional force, and since speed is higher, disconnected defect is more when weaving.
It selects GA747 loom when weaving, also relies on frictional force and bubble is sent to pass through, since speed is low, it is clear to be conducive to shed open, to having woven
Benefit, production efficiency all 88% or more, can obtain preferable economic interests.Thus select GA747 loom.
Twin shaft weaving: there are three types of yarn in this fabric, wherein pass through and spend through 40SSingle thread, the intertwined point of ground warp and flower warp
Number difference is not too greatly, to use the same beam of a loom.1.34 times for being that body warp is knitted through crimp of bubble warp thread, differ through weave shrinkage
It is very big, need twin shaft to weave.Warp beam uses original let-off motion, and flower warp beam is mounted in the top of warp beam, flower beam head
Distance away from the back rest is about 8-10cm, controls the warp let-off using friction.
Bubble will be placed on heald frame proparea.When this fabric weaves, bubble is used 1-2 piece comprehensive, if bubble is more through radical, is needed
It is comprehensive using page 4, before use page 4 it is comprehensive;The reason of bubble is through being placed on proparea is: bubble is smaller through tension, and shed open is not easy clearly, bubble
It is placed on front, it is clearly advantageous through shed open to steeping.When bubble warp thread is more than page 4 comprehensive, shed open is difficult to opening or cleaning, and difficulty of weaving can be very big,
Therefore, bubble do not exceeded page 4 it is comprehensive.
The control of bubble ratio: bubble axis is the warp let-off to be controlled by frictional force, and frictional force is the elastic force by spring, control bubble
Than being mainly exactly the elastic force for controlling spring.
In process of production, it measures 10cm forward from fell, marks on body warp.Set bubble ratio as 1.34, so
Afterwards again from fell, 13.4cm is measured forward, makees upper mark on bubble warp thread, and label is checked in driving test weaving, if bubble warp and ground warp
Label on yarn is just overlapped in fabric side, and bubble ratio meets the requirements, if the label on seersucker is to the rear, illustrates that bubble ratio is less than normal,
It needs to reduce spring force, if the label on seersucker is to the front, bubble ratio is bigger than normal, needs to reduce spring force.Bubble ratio will pass through
After repeatedly comparing, just it can determine that.In production process, bubble ratio will respectively measure once sooner or later, according to bubble ratio size, adjust bubble at any time
Through, the tension that passes through.
The speed of loom: the common speed of GA747 loom has jacquard weave group in 180-200 speed r/min, this fabric tissue
It knits, steep tissue, more complicated, it is clear that opening is not easy, therefore to use lower speed.Determine that speed is 185r/min.
Evening opening: opening time 3100, opening is early, and weft yarn is easily urgent, and the backwash of fell is small, and to being formed, bubble is unfavorable,
Opening time is slower, and weft yarn is more not easy urgent, and after repeatedly beating up, weft yarn can just be fixed up, and bubble effect is good.But it is open
Time is slow, and shed open is not easy clearly, to influence wefting insertion.By test weaving, determine that opening time is 310 degree.
Late wefting insertion, 850Into sword.When GA747 loom weaves conventional variety, 75 are generally mostly used0Into sword, when this fabric weaves,
On the one hand late opening process is used, it is on the other hand, small through tension due to steeping, when weaving, three jump faults are also easy to produce at fabric side,
It suitably postpones into the sword time, so that shed open effective height increases when into sword, jumps faults to solve three.
Stroke of harness frames: conventional variety weaves, and when shed open full gate, the distance of body warp to slay is 1.6-3mm, this distance
Greatly, shed open effective height is small, and unfavorable to wefting insertion apart from small, shed open effective height is just big, is conducive to wefting insertion.This distance cannot mistake
Small, small warp thread may generate friction with slay, so that yarn is fluffed, can cause to break end when serious.When this fabric weaves, ground warp
The stroke of harness frames of yarn remains unchanged, and the stroke of harness frames for steeping axis suitably increases, and makes bubble warp thread to the distance of slay by 1.6-3mm, drop
To 0-0.5mm.After the stroke of harness frames increase of seersucker, bubble warp thread may with slay friction, but due to steep, the warp let-off small through tension
Amount is big, therefore influence of the slay to the friction of warp thread to bubble warp is smaller.Increase bubble after stroke of harness frames, it is clearly advantageous to shed open.
Big through stroke of harness frames due to steeping, bubble warp and ground is not through in same level, reducing bubble through the friction with ground warp.
Warp tension: the tension weight of a 5kg, the elastic force of tension spring are respectively configured on the tension weight hammer stem on loom both sides
Control bigger than normal, warp tension is big, weft yarn be not easy it is urgent, to advantageous at bubble.GA747 weaving-machine tension induction mechanism is mechanical
, in production process, with the reduction of beam of a loom, upper woven power can be gradually increased, and the technique person for being responsible for technique, early, evening will be examined
The width for looking into fabric side, the width for controlling fabric side is between 154-156cm, if it find that fabric side is partially narrow, to adjust in time
Small warp tension.
The warp tension of warp is steeped, steeps small through tension, when beating, steeps relaxed, bubble ratio effect is good, but steeping cannot be too through tension
Small, bubble is small through tension, will lead to bubble through upper gate assignment problem, stop over is caused accidentally to be cut-off.Bubble is not causing menopause to be closed through tension
In the case where vehicle, it is advisable with small.
Shed open depth: shed open depth is big, and when beating, warp thread is mobile big, is unfavorable for urgent weft yarn, is conducive to fabric blistering.
When this fabric weaves, warp stop frame, in long slot middle position, is moved to outermost position, shed open depth is made to reach maximization by conventional
Position, it is advantageous to blistering.
The trimmed size for the fabric that the present invention produces is as follows: the breadth of finished product is 146cm, and finished product thread count is 346
Root/10cm × 275 piece/10cm.Through weave shrinkage: 7.7% latitude weave shrinkage: the long contracting of 5.4% dyeing and finishing: 6% dyeing and finishing width shrinkage: 6.5%.
Apparent jacquard weave and bubble stripe: grey jacquard weave part is presented in appearance of fabrics, and flower-shape is clear, complete;Item is steeped in bubble part
It is prominent, there is three-dimensional sense, is suitable for making summer clothes.
When this fabric weaves, technique is all that the difference for the warp run-in for around increasing passing through, steeping warp is formulated, and increases beating resistance
Power is one of the main means for increasing bubble effect, therefore we when weaving Seersucker, technique is all around increase beating
Resistance setting, by bubble through a series of measures such as small tension receiving coil, late opening, the low back rest, increase shed open depth, solves and how to control
Bubble ratio problem processed achieves preferable effect, and for the efficiency of loom all 88% or more, best board efficiency has reached 93%,
Achieve preferable economic benefit.
The present invention is not limited to above-mentioned preferred forms, anyone can show that other are various under the inspiration of the present invention
The product of form, however, make any variation in its shape or structure, it is all that there is skill identical or similar to the present application
Art scheme, is within the scope of the present invention.
Claims (3)
1. a kind of process for producing all-cotton yarn-dyed bubble jacquard fabric, characterized by the following steps:
(1) winder
1332M type bobbin-winding machine, winding speed 520m/min are selected, the weight of influence of winding tension washer is 7.4 grams, to guarantee yarn
Quality, it is desirable that use hand held air splicer connector;
(2) warping
Using GA121 type beam warper, speed of beaming is controlled in 380m/min, using collective's creeling, tension in Warping subregion control
System, before being divided into after three regions, 40SWhen body warp warping, proparea washer weight is 10g, middle area 9g, back zone 8g;40S/ 2 bubbles
When warp thread warping, proparea washer weight is 13g, middle area 12g, back zone 11g, and side yarn is 40SSingle line, tension 11g;
Assorted warp thread total quantity of warps is as follows: ground is through bleached yarn 2226, including 48 side yarns, and grey dyeing defect is through 1962, white bubble
872, warp thread, 40SBleached yarn 2226,4 axis are taken, are 556*2+557*2 with axis, grey dyeing defect takes 4 axis, match through 1962
Axis is 490*2+491*2, and it is 436*2,10 axis of total number of axle with axis that white bubble 872, warp thread, which takes 2 axis,;
(3) sizing
Formula of size are as follows: converted starch 70kg, AS-02 slurry 30kg, size mixing 750L, relative viscosity 10-11s, the rate of sizing 12%,
Squeezing roller pressure uses light industry skill after preceding weight, and preceding squeezing roller pressure is 16KN, and post jacking roller pressure is 10KN, sizing temperature 98
DEG C, sizing speed 48m/min;There are two types of colors, bleached yarn to be placed on upper layer for yarn when sizing, and grey yarn is placed on lower layer, intermediate
It is separated with twisted wire;
(4) and axis
Steeping warp thread is 40S/ 2 strands, do not need starching, and two bubble warp beams are merged into a bubble axis on warp rebeaming machine;
(5) drawing-in
The total quantity of warps of this fabric is 5060, and menopause tablet is with 4 rows when weaving;
Heald density: by the analysis to fabric tissue, comprehensive number of pages is page 16, and the warp thread of different motion rule has 12 kinds, wherein
Jacquard weave is with page 10, and bubble is with page 2, and plain weave is with page 4;1st~2 is comprehensive, steeps 436, warp thread;3rd~4 is comprehensive, and 40SBleached yarn 556;
5th~6 is comprehensive, and 40SBleached yarn 557;7th is comprehensive, and grey dyeing defect is through 981;8th~16 is comprehensive, and every page of heald is 109;
Sequence of gaiting is as follows: (3,4,5,6) × 2, and 3,4,7,8,7,9,7,10,7,11,7,12,7,13,7,14,7,15,7,16,
(5,6,3,4) × 2,5,6, (1,2) × 4;
(6) it weaves
The selection of type: GA747 rapier loom is selected, bubble warp thread is sent by frictional force, since speed is low, it is clear to be conducive to shed open
Clear, advantageous to weaving, production efficiency all 88% or more, can obtain preferable economic interests;
Twin shaft is weaved: yarn there are three types of in this fabric, wherein body warp and Hua Jing 40SSingle thread, the intertwined point of body warp and flower warp thread
Number difference be not it is too big, using the same beam of a loom, steep warp thread is 1.34 times of body warp crimp through crimp, through weave shrinkage phase
Difference is very big, and twin shaft is needed to weave, and warp beam uses original let-off motion, and flower warp beam is mounted in the top of warp beam, flower warp beam side
Distance of the disk away from the back rest is 8-10cm, controls the warp let-off using friction;
Bubble warp thread is placed on heald frame proparea: when this fabric weaves, bubble warp thread is comprehensive using 1-2 piece, if bubble warp thread radical is more, needs
It is comprehensive using page 4, before use page 4 it is comprehensive;
The control of bubble ratio: in process of production, measuring forward 10cm from fell, mark on body warp, set bubble ratio as
1.34, then again from fell, 13.4cm is measured forward, makees upper mark on bubble warp thread, and label is checked in driving test weaving, if bubble
Label on warp thread and body warp is just overlapped in fabric side, and bubble ratio meets the requirements;Bubble ratio will be after repeatedly comparing, ability
It determines;In production process, bubble ratio will respectively measure once sooner or later, according to bubble ratio size, adjust of bubble warp thread, body warp at any time
Power;
The speed of loom: the speed of GA747 loom is 185r/min;
Evening opening: opening time is 310 °;
Late wefting insertion: 85 ° into sword;
Stroke of harness frames: when this fabric weaves, the stroke of harness frames of body warp is remained unchanged, and the stroke of harness frames for steeping axis suitably increases, and is made
Warp thread is steeped to the distance of slay by 1.6-3mm, drops to 0-0.5mm, and after the stroke of harness frames increase of seersucker, bubble warp thread can be with slay
Friction, but it is small through tension due to steeping, and warp run-in is big, therefore influence of the slay to the friction of warp thread to bubble warp is smaller, increases bubble warp
Clearly advantageous to shed open after stroke of harness frames, big through stroke of harness frames due to steeping, bubble warp and ground is not through in same level, reducing
Steep the friction of warp thread and body warp;
Warp tension: respectively configuring the tension weight of a 5kg on the tension weight hammer stem on loom both sides, the elastic force of tension spring is bigger than normal
Control, warp tension is big, weft yarn be not easy it is urgent, to advantageous at bubble, GA747 weaving-machine tension induction mechanism be it is mechanical, it is raw
During production, with the reduction of beam of a loom, upper woven power can be gradually increased, and the technique person for being responsible for technique, early, evening will check fabric
The width in face, the width for controlling fabric side is between 154-156cm, if it find that fabric side is partially narrow, to turn machine down in time
Tension;
Shed open depth: shed open depth is big, and when beating, warp thread is mobile big, is unfavorable for urgent weft yarn, is conducive to fabric blistering, originally knits
When object weaves, warp stop frame moves to outermost position in long slot middle position by conventional, reaches shed open depth and maximizes position
It sets, it is advantageous to blistering.
2. the process of production all-cotton yarn-dyed bubble jacquard fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: production
Fabric body warp is 40SBleached yarn, jacquard weave part is by grey 40SSingle thread is constituted, white 40S/ 2 doublet cords constitute bubble warp thread, bubble warp
Yarn individually at axis, is weaved using twin shaft;Weft yarn is 40SMonochrome plus white yarn.
3. the process of production all-cotton yarn-dyed bubble jacquard fabric according to claim 2, it is characterised in that: described to knit
The trimmed size of object is as follows: the breadth of finished product is 146cm, and finished product thread count is 346/10cm × 275 piece/10cm, through knitting
Shrinkage: 7.7%, latitude weave shrinkage: 5.4%, the long contracting of dyeing and finishing: 6%, dyeing and finishing width shrinkage: 6.5%.
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Effective date of registration: 20220913 Address after: 223100 buildings 21 and 23, Kunshan Road, entrepreneurship Park, East District, Hongze Economic Development Zone, Huai'an City, Jiangsu Province Patentee after: Jiangsu natural wind Textile Co.,Ltd. Address before: 226000 No. 87 Youth Middle Road, Nantong City, Jiangsu Province Patentee before: JIANGSU College OF ENGINEERING AND TECHNOLOGY |