CN108977993B

CN108977993B - Design method of thin and ultra-high-density embroidery-imitated fabric

Info

Publication number: CN108977993B
Application number: CN201810911461.2A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 佟昀
Original assignee: Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
Current assignee: Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
Priority date: 2018-08-10
Filing date: 2018-08-10
Publication date: 2020-10-09
Anticipated expiration: 2038-08-10
Also published as: CN108977993A

Abstract

The invention discloses a design method of a thin and ultra-high-density imitated embroidery fabric. The invention designs and weaves on the basis of the jacquard weave, cuts off the long floating thread of the jacquard weave when the fabric is finished, and the remaining end part of the colorful yarn head forms the three-dimensional effect of the napped embroidery effect, and the characteristics and difficulties of the fabric are 'dense encryption and jacquard shearing'. The flower-forming layout needs to consider that the flower spacing of the flower-cutting part is larger than the width of the cutting edge of the flower-cutting knife, so that the attractive appearance is ensured, and the convenience of feeding and flower-cutting of a flower-cutting machine is also considered. The distance between the cotton-raising areas after the cotton-cutting is not suitable to be too small, otherwise the feeding difficulty of the cotton-cutting machine is caused, and meanwhile, the distance is too small, the weaving difficulty of grey cloth is increased due to too dense cotton-raising areas; too large space results in less warp and less warp yarn, which is not favorable to the uniform distribution of warp yarn on the warp yarn shaft and uneven tension. The warp density of the flower is higher than the ground warp density, and the density of the flower area is higher, so that the cut flower is favorable for plump fluff.

Description

Design method of thin and ultra-high-density embroidery-imitated fabric

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the field of fabrics, and particularly relates to a design method of a thin and high-density imitated embroidery fabric.

Background

The yarn-dyed warp-cut poplin has the 'smooth, stiff and comfortable' style, deep blue and white longitudinal stripes are distributed at intervals, pink and dark blue two-color cut patterns are embedded in the warp direction, the appearance has an imitation embroidery effect, and the longitudinal stripes give people a sense of figure growth and are simple, elegant and quiet.

The product of the invention is a fine and ultra-high density plain weave fabric, the number of the yarn sections is small, the strength is low, the wear resistance is poor, the interweaving points are many, the warp density is large, the shed is not easy to be opened, the coverage coefficient of the partial warp yarns of the cut flower exceeds 150%, and the weaving difficulty is large.

Disclosure of Invention

The purpose of the invention is as follows: in order to overcome the defects of the prior art, the invention provides a design method of a thin and high-density imitated embroidery fabric.

The technical scheme is as follows: a design method of a thin and ultra-high density imitated embroidery fabric is specifically designed as follows:

1. designing yarns: the fabric yarn is divided into a ground warp, a flower warp and a weft;

a. ground warp and weft design: the ground warp and the weft adopt 11.7tex Xinjiang long stapled cotton combed yarns, and the non-figured ground warp and weft are interwoven to form a fabric main body; the average breaking strength of JC11.7tex single yarn is 185cN, the strength irregularity is 11.5%, the yarn levelness CV is 14.3%, the detail is 15/km, the slub is 45/km, the neps are 97/km;

b. designing the flower warp yarns: the cotton warp adopts the C18.2tex carded pure cotton yarn with higher linear density, most of the cotton warp is cut off after the cotton warp is finished, so the requirements on evenness, detail and neps are not high; the average breaking strength of the warp yarns is 273 cN;

the method specifically comprises the following steps: warp combination JC11.7+18.2 tex; the ground warp is JC11.7tex, the flower warp is 18.2 tex; the ground warp yarns are distributed between the non-patterned areas and the patterned warps of the patterned areas; in the bloom area, the flower warp: ground warp is 1: 1;

2. fabric tightness design: the fabric main body is a plain weave ground part without raising, so the warp tightness Ej of the ground weave without raising is 61.5%, and the weft tightness Ew is 43.4%;

3. designing the fabric density:

a. the regional meridian density:

namely, it is

Obtaining finished product warp density Pj which is 486 pieces/10 cm;

b. the flower area is dense: in the warp-raising area, in order to increase the effect of covering adjacent warps by the warps, improve the warp development rate of the flowers and reduce the ground warp development rate, the density of the flower area is doubled compared with the area, and the warp density of the flower area reaches 972 roots/10 cm;

although the warp tightness of the flower area is very high, the flower warp yarns are in an overlapped state, the flower warp yarns are only interwoven with the weft yarns in the consolidation area, and the rest parts are in a non-interwoven warp float long line state, so that the integral weaving difficulty of the fabric is not greatly increased;

c. weft density of the fabric: determining weft density P according to the requirement that the weft tightness is 43.5 percent_w343 pieces/10 cm;

4. fabric width: determining the width of a finished product to be 145.5cm according to the tailoring requirement of the clothing;

5. designing a fabric pattern: the pattern design is mainly planar, and the local part is decorated with an imitated embroidery effect formed by cutting flowers; pink purple and navy blue flower channels are embedded in thin strips with alternate blue and white colors, the flower types of the flower shearing of the navy blue and the pink purple flower channels are required to be staggered up and down, adjacent left and right and in remote response, the fine and smooth middle is clear, the quiet middle is agile, and the plane is three-dimensional and sharp;

6. the main process design is as follows:

A. one-reed dent calculation

Because the warp density ratio is equal to the warp flowering area: the plain weave area is 2:1, and the number of reeds penetrating in the plain weave area is 2 per tooth according to the pattern design; the number of the reed dents penetrating through the pattern forming area is 4 per dent;

the number of teeth of a reed occupied by the flower forming area in one flower is equal to the number of flower forming roots of one flower per reed, and the number of the flower forming roots per reed is equal to 10 multiplied by 4/4 and equal to 10;

the number of reed teeth in the plain area without blooming in one flower is equal to the number of the reed teeth in the plain area of one flower/the number of reeds in each area is equal to 150/2 which is equal to 75;

the total number of the jacquard reed teeth is equal to the number of teeth in the jacquard area and the number of teeth in the plain area is equal to 10+75 and equal to 85;

B. average number of penetration per reed

Average number of penetration of ground weave per reed is one figure warp number/one figure reed dent number

The number of the inner flat lines of one flower plus the number of the inner warp of one flower)/the number of teeth of one flower

2.24 pieces/tooth (30 × 5+4 × 10)/85;

C. average warp density of finished product

The average warp density (root/10 cm) ═ one flower warp number/one flower width ═ 150+40 root/34.7 mm ═ 5.47 root/mm ═ 547 root/10 cm;

D. number of full width warp

According to the requirements of width and stretching action, the number of side yarns is 44 multiplied by 2, the average penetration number of each reed of the known ground weave is 2.375, and the penetration number of each reed of the side weave is 4; it is known that the average warp density is 547 (roots/10 cm) and the width of the door is 145.5 cm; the number of ground weave warp yarn is 547/10 × 145.5 ═ 7958.85, corrected to 7958, the number of side weave warp yarn is 88 × (1-2.24/4) ═ 38.72, corrected to 38, and the total number of warp yarn is 7958+38 ═ 7996;

E. flower splitting process

In order to ensure that the raised tissues in weaving are not close to the selvedge, and to ensure that the patterns are symmetrical as much as possible, the warping processing is convenient, and the subsequent finishing and the splicing are carried out, the splitting treatment is needed;

the number of full width flower (number of full width-number of side yarn)/number of one flower warp (7996-88)/180 (43.93) is added with flower and head, namely, the number is corrected to be 44 flower, and the number of head is 180 (1-0.93) and is 12; arranging the split warp yarns:

(30 plain weaves + 10 pink purple flowered areas + 10 plain weaved areas +5 navy cyan flowered areas + 70 plain weaves + 10 pink purple flowered areas +5 plain weaved areas + 10 navy cyan flowered areas + 30 plain weaves) x 44 flowers, and the end of the last flower is reduced by 12;

F. width of grey cloth and reeding width

Determining the width of the grey cloth as the width of a finished product/(1-dyeing and finishing width shrinkage) as 145.5/(1-6.5%) as 156cm according to the dyeing and finishing width shrinkage of 6.5%;

determining the reed-threading width to be 156.6 according to the weft weaving shrinkage and the width of the machine-loading slitter edge obtained by a pioneer test;

G. metric reed wire number

The number of teeth of the whole reed is equal to the number of full flowers multiplied by one flower tooth, the number of teeth occupied by the reducer plus the number of teeth occupied by the side yarn is equal to 44 multiplied by 85-12/2+88/4 is equal to 3756;

the metric reed number is (3756/156.6) × 10 is 240.

As an optimization: in the design of the fabric pattern, the pattern layout is as follows: the design of the pattern adopts a longitudinal strip plain weave area as a main part, a warp pattern forming area as an auxiliary part, the area adopts a blue and white strip interval arrangement mode, and the number of warp yarns contained in each strip of blue and white is 5 respectively; the strip width is equal to the number of the strips/the warp density is equal to 5/4.86 is equal to 1.02mm, pink purple and navy blue warp pattern samples are dotted between partial white strips, the warp and the ground warp in the warp pattern forming area are respectively 5 strips, and the arrangement ratio is 1: 1; after weaving, trimming off the back floating long thread through after finishing to form the effect of imitating embroidery on the front.

As an optimization: in the design of the fabric pattern, the relative distance is as follows: one flower (namely one circulation) has 34 warp color strips with blue and white alternated, wherein 30 blue and white strips are plain ground color strips, and each strip has 5 warp yarns; the 4 color stripes are warp-raising color stripes, each color stripe comprises 10 warp yarns, the flower warp yarns are embedded between the white ground yarns, and the ground yarns and the flower warp yarns are respectively 5 warp yarns;

the farthest distance between the two same-color warp-raising strips is 18, and the nearest distance between the upper and lower staggered same-color raising strips is 15;

the nearest interval of the colored stripes of different colors is 1 color stripe;

one flower root number is plain strip root number multiplied by 15+ warp strip root number multiplied by 4 is 5 multiplied by 30+4 multiplied by 10 is 190;

the width of one flower is 34 × 1.02-34.7 mm.

Has the advantages that: the invention designs and weaves on the basis of the jacquard weave, cuts off the long floating thread of the jacquard weave when the fabric is finished, and the remaining end part of the colorful yarn head forms the three-dimensional effect of the napped embroidery effect, and the characteristics and difficulties of the fabric are 'dense encryption and jacquard shearing'. The flower-forming layout needs to consider that the flower spacing of the flower-cutting part is larger than the width of the cutting edge of the flower-cutting knife, so that the attractive appearance is ensured, and the convenience of feeding and flower-cutting of a flower-cutting machine is also considered. The distance between the cotton-raising areas after the cotton-cutting is not suitable to be too small, otherwise the feeding difficulty of the cotton-cutting machine is caused, and meanwhile, the distance is too small, the weaving difficulty of grey cloth is increased due to too dense cotton-raising areas; too large space results in less warp and less warp yarn, which is not favorable to the uniform distribution of warp yarn on the warp yarn shaft and uneven tension. The warp density of the flower is higher than the ground warp density, and the density of the flower area is higher, so that the cut flower is favorable for plump fluff.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a pattern layout of the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a partial reverse side tissue view of the present invention;

FIG. 3 is a layout of the pattern of the present invention;

FIG. 4 is a schematic view of the reverse side of the blank of the present invention prior to cutting;

FIG. 5 is a schematic front view of an uncut pre-cut blank of the present invention;

figure 6 is a schematic representation of a cut-out fabric of the present invention.

Detailed Description

The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below so that those skilled in the art can better understand the advantages and features of the present invention, and thus the scope of the present invention will be more clearly defined. The embodiments described herein are only a few embodiments of the present invention, rather than all embodiments, and all other embodiments that can be derived by one of ordinary skill in the art without inventive faculty based on the embodiments described herein are intended to fall within the scope of the present invention.

Examples

The invention relates to weaving and production of thin, ultra-high-density imitated embroidery yarn-dyed poplin, which is designed and woven on the basis of a jacquard weave, wherein during the after-finishing of a fabric, floating long lines of the jacquard weave are cut off, and the end parts of the remaining colorful yarn ends form a three-dimensional effect of a pile-shaped embroidery effect, and the characteristics and difficulties of the fabric are 'dense encryption and pattern shearing'. The flower-forming layout needs to consider that the flower spacing of the flower-cutting part is larger than the width of the cutting edge of the flower-cutting knife, so that the attractive appearance is ensured, and the convenience of feeding and flower-cutting of a flower-cutting machine is also considered. Because the weaving points of the warp yarns and the ground warp are different, the warp yarns are woven by adopting double weaving shafts, the warp sizing machine is used for sizing the few warp yarns, the linear density of the warp yarns in the pattern forming area is increased, the area with higher warp density is doubled to ensure that the pattern area has enough compactness, the colorful warp yarns are not loosened after the pattern is cut, the ground warp yarns are sized by the double sizing grooves, the grouting force is increased, the heavy coating is increased to solve the problems of large warp density and unclear weaving opening, and the air jet loom is used for double-shaft weaving to reduce the density of plain ground warp heddles, higher back beams, higher tension and early opening, thereby prolonging the jet time of the last group of auxiliary nozzles.

First, fabric design

1. Fabric style positioning

The fabric is a female shirt and skirt fabric in summer, and the designed style requires that the fabric is sloppy and agile in the middle. The texture requirement is compact and exquisite, the hand feeling requirement is smooth, and the three-dimensional embroidered appearance is achieved after weaving, clipping and finishing.

2. Yarn design

The fabric yarns are divided into ground warp yarns, and patterned warp and weft yarns.

2.1 the warp and weft design is based on the technical characteristics of fine and smooth cloth cover of fine poplin, and requires small density, high strength, less bright and clean hairiness and even yarn evenness of warp and weft. The ground warp and the weft adopt 11.7tex Xinjiang long stapled cotton combed yarns, and the non-figured ground warp and weft are interwoven to form the fabric main body. The fine fabric has high quality requirement on the ground warp and weft.

The measured average breaking strength of JC11.7tex single yarn is 185cN, strength irregularity is 11.5%, yarn levelness CV is 14.3%, detail is 15/km, slub is 45/km, neps are 97/km.

2.2 the warp design has the decoration effect, in order to ensure the covering effect of the warp on the adjacent ground warps and the requirement of full fluff after the flower is cut, the warp adopts the C18.2tex pure cotton yarn with higher linear density, most of the cotton yarn is cut after the warp finishing, and therefore, the requirements on evenness, detail and neps are not high. The average breaking strength of the warp yarns was found to be 273 cN.

The method comprises the following steps: warp combination JC11.7+18.2 tex. The warp yarn of the ground is JC11.7tex and the warp yarn of the flower is 18.2 tex. The ground warp yarns are distributed between the non-patterned areas and the patterned warps of the patterned areas. In the bloom area, the flower warp: ground warp 1: 1.

3. Fabric tightness design

According to the requirements of compact and smooth texture of the fabric, the tightness of the fabric is high, and the fabric body is a plain weave part without florescence, so that the tightness Ej of the ground weave without florescence is 61.5 percent and the tightness Ew of the weft is 43.4 percent.

4. Fabric density design

4.1 regional warp density

Namely, it is

And obtaining finished warp density Pj which is 486 pieces/10 cm.

4.2 the flower area warp density is in the warp-raising area, in order to increase the effect of covering the adjacent flower warp with the warp, increase the flower warp appearance rate and reduce the ground warp appearance rate, the density of the flower area should be doubled compared with the area, and then the flower area warp density reaches 972 roots/10 cm.

Although the warp tightness of the flower area is large, the flower warp yarns are in an overlapped state, the flower warp yarns are only interwoven with the weft yarns in the consolidation area, and the rest parts are in a warp float long line state without interweaving, so that the integral weaving difficulty of the fabric is not greatly increased.

4.3 the weft density of the fabric is determined according to the requirement that the weft tightness is 43.5 percent_w343 pieces/10 cm.

5. The width of the fabric is determined to be 145.5cm according to the tailoring requirement.

Second, design of fabric pattern

According to the style requirement of the fabric, the pattern design is mainly planar, and the local part is decorated with the embroidery imitating effect formed by the cut flowers. The color is stable and simple, and pink purple and dark blue flower meridians are embedded in thin strips with alternate blue and white. The flower type of the cut flower of the Tibet blue and the Pink-flower meridian requires that the cut flower is staggered up and down, adjacent left and right and distant, the fine and smooth part is clear, the quiet part is vivid, and the plane is sharp.

1. Pattern layout

As shown in figure 1, the design of the pattern adopts a longitudinal strip plain area as a main part, a warp raising area as an auxiliary part, the area adopts a blue and white strip interval arrangement mode, and the number of warps contained in each strip of blue and white is 5 respectively. The strip width is equal to the number of the strips/warp density is equal to 5/4.86 is equal to 1.02(mm),

the pink purple and navy blue warp-figured patterns are dotted between partial white stripes, and the warp-figured area has 5 warps and ground warps respectively with the arrangement ratio of 1: 1. The pattern of the reverse side of the pattern is shown in figure 2. After weaving, trimming off the back floating long thread through after finishing to form the effect of imitating embroidery on the front.

2. Relative distance

One flower (namely one circulation) has 34 warp color strips with blue and white alternated, wherein 30 blue and white strips are plain ground color strips, and each strip has 5 warp yarns; the 4 color stripes are warp-raising color stripes, each comprising 10 warp yarns, the warp yarns are embedded between white ground yarns, and the ground yarns and the warp yarns are 5 yarns respectively.

The farthest distance between the two same-color warp-raising strips is 18, the nearest distance between the upper and lower staggered same-color raising strips is 15,

the nearest interval of the colored stripes of different colors is 1 color stripe.

One flower number is plain strip number multiplied by 15+ warp strip number multiplied by 4 is 5 multiplied by 30+4 multiplied by 10 is 190

If the width of one flower is 34 × 1.02, 34.7(mm), if the distance is too small, the post-finishing cutting knife is not easy to feed, the flower is difficult to cut, and the weaving is difficult due to the large number of flowers.

Third, the main process design

1. One-reed dent calculation

Because the warp density ratio is equal to the warp flowering area: the plain weave area is 2:1, and the number of reeds penetrating in the plain weave area is 2 per tooth according to the pattern design; the number of the reed dents penetrated in the pattern forming area is 4 per dent.

The number of teeth in the reed occupied by the flower forming area in one flower is equal to one flower number of flower forming roots per reed, and the number of flowers per reed is equal to 10 multiplied by 4/4 and equal to 10.

The number of reed teeth in the plain area without blooming in one flower is equal to the number of the reed teeth in the plain area of one flower/the number of reeds in each reed is equal to 150/2 and 75.

The total number of the jacquard reed teeth is equal to the number of teeth in the jacquard area plus the number of teeth in the plain area is equal to 10+ 75-85.

2. Average number of penetration per reed

2.24 pieces/tooth (30 × 5+4 × 10)/85.

3. Average warp density of finished product

The average warp density (root/10 cm) ═ one flower warp number/one flower width ═ 150+40 root/34.7 mm ═ 5.47 root/mm ═ 547 root/10 cm.

4. Number of full width warp

According to the requirements of width and stretching action, the number of side yarns is 44 multiplied by 2, the average penetration number of each reed of the known ground weave is 2.375, and the penetration number of each reed of the side weave is 4; it is known that the average warp density is 547 (roots/10 cm) and the width of the door is 145.5 cm; the number of ground weave warp threads is 547/10 × 145.5 ═ 7958.85, corrected to 7958, the number of side weave warp threads is 88 × (1-2.24/4) ═ 38.72, corrected to 38, and the total number of warp threads is 7958+38 ═ 7996.

5. Flower splitting process

In order to ensure that the raised pattern tissue in weaving is not close to the selvedge, and to ensure that the pattern is symmetrical as much as possible, the warping processing is convenient, and the subsequent finishing and the splicing are carried out, the pattern splitting treatment is needed.

The number of full width flowers is (number of full width-number of side yarn)/number of one flower warp yarn is (7996-88)/180 is 43.93, and the number of added flowers and head is corrected to be 44 flowers, and the number of head is 180 x (1-0.93) is 12. Arranging the split warp yarns:

(30 plain flowers in 30 pieces + 10 pieces in pink purple colored area + 10 pieces in plain flowers area +5 pieces in navy blue colored area + 70 pieces in plain flowers area + 10 pieces in pink purple colored area +5 pieces in plain flowers area + 10 pieces in navy blue colored area + 30 pieces in plain flowers area) × 44 flowers, and 12 pieces at the end of the last flower.

6. Width of grey cloth and reeding width

Determining the width of the grey cloth as the width of the finished product/(1-dyeing and finishing width shrinkage) as 145.5/(1-6.5%) as 156cm according to the dyeing and finishing width shrinkage of 6.5%

And determining the reed-threading width to be 156.6 according to the weft weaving shrinkage and the width of the machined waste edge obtained by the pioneer test.

7. Metric reed wire number

Full width reed tooth number equal to full width flower number x flower tooth number-reducing head tooth number + side yarn tooth number equal to 44 × 85-12/2+88/4 equal to 3756

Metric reed number (3756/156.6) × 10 (240) ═ full reed number/reeding width (3756/156.6)

8. Color warp arrangement

The color warp arrangement was divided into plain areas and warp-bloomed areas, and one color warp arrangement cycle was as shown in table 1:

TABLE 1 color channels arrangement Table

The above table shows the half-color warp alignment cycles, i.e. 2 identical color warps are aligned in one flower, according to the pattern and splitting results.

White ground warp number (white warp number in one flower) x flower number + side yarn number (5 × 6+ 5) × 2 × 44+88 (3608)

The root number of dark blue ground warp is equal to the root number of dark blue in one flower multiplied by the flower number-reduced number is equal to (5 × 6+5+5) × 2 × 44-12 is 3948

Root number of purple powder in Chinese yam, number of flower in Chinese yam, 5 × 44 ═ 220

The root number of Tibetan blue flower is one flower, the blue root number is hidden, the flower number is 5 × 44, 220

Totaling: 7996, the total number of warps is calculated in accordance with the above-mentioned total number of warps.

Fourthly, the key of the main production technology

The product is a fine and ultra-high density plain weave fabric, the number of yarn sections is small, the strength is low, the wear resistance is poor, the number of interweaving points is large, the warp density is large, shed opening is not easy to be clear, the coverage coefficient of partial warp yarns of the cut-out is over 150%, and the weaving difficulty is large.

Since the difference between the weaving points of the warp yarns and the ground warp yarns is large and the warp yarn tension is different due to the difference between the weaving shrinkage, the warp yarns and the ground warp yarns must be respectively wound on different warp beams and weaving beams, respectively warped and sized, combined in a warp drawing-in process and woven by using double shafts.

The warp yarns have more ground warps and small linear density, the warp yarns have higher density and less roots by adopting the process of warping in batches and then slashing, and a sizing combination machine is suitable for being adopted.

1. Warping process

The ground warp and the flower warp are warped respectively during warping. And the ground warp adopts a batch warping machine, then slashes are carried out, then a warp sizing and pattern discharging process is carried out, and the pattern warp adopts a sizing combination machine for warping and slashing.

1.1 plain ground warp beaming plain JC11.7tex ground warp using a Benning grid (Benningger) ZDA high speed batch beaming machine using a hydraulic variable displacement motor to achieve automatic reduction of the beam speed as the winding radius increases, thereby achieving constant winding tension and linear speed.

Warping of white ground warp: 601 × 5 axis +603 × 1 axis; warping and beaming of deep blue ground warp: 564 × 7 axes.

Before warping, the whole machine is carried out to ensure that the yarn channel is smooth and clean, the yarn pressing roller is parallel to the warp beam, the loose side shaft is avoided, the warping speed is 600m/min, and the winding density of the warp beam is 0.54g/cm³Dynamic running tension of single yarn 300cN。

1.2 the warp of the flower warp warping and the number of warp of the slashing are less, adopt SGA800 warp sizing combination machine, after the sizing yarn of separate segmentation is dried, warp by the big cylinder band by band again, the ribbon number of the rewinding and combining of making into beam of a loom collectively, because the warp number of the warp of the flower beam of a loom is less, should not be too few for the number of the band of the warping of the segmentation to guarantee that the warp is evenly dispersed on the beam of a loom band by band, every hank number sets to 110, take 4 hanks, the pink violet and navy blue warp according to 1 in the bobbin cradle in every hank: 1 row of barrels. Thereby, when weaving, the flower warp is evenly distributed, and diagonal drawing is avoided.

The width (cm) of the loom beam is equivalent to reeding width +2 is equivalent to 156+2 is equivalent to 158;

and 28, selecting the reed number of the fixed-width reed, then,

pure PVA is adopted for the warp, sizing is carried out at the medium temperature of 70 ℃, and due to the small covering coefficient of slashing and the good film-forming property of PVA, the sticking rate of slashing hairiness and the slashing wear resistance can be effectively increased, and the method is particularly favorable for a textured consolidation area with high fabric tightness.

2. Sizing process

As the number of JC11.7tex ground warps is large, 13 shafts are needed for warping, the linear density of warp yarns is small, the ground warps are sized by adopting a GA308 seven-unit double-size-groove sizing machine, the purpose is to reduce the covering coefficient of sizing yarns, increase the penetration and the covering, stick down hairiness and size the process route: "heavy coating, soaking, light pressing, heavy pressing, high concentration, low viscosity, moisture retention, multiple twisting, and tight winding". Slurry formula: PVA-1799: 25kg, CD-DF 515C: 50kg, CD-PT: 20kg, CD-52: 5 kg. The measured slurry solid content is 12.6%, the slurry sizing rate is 13.3%, the moisture regain is 7.2%, the slurry viscosity is 8.8 seconds (the funnel water value is 3.7 seconds), the pressure of a slurry roller is 7KN on the beam side, and the pressure of a drying room is 16 KN.

Due to the fact that the fabric is a fine strip spacing pattern fabric, the warp sizing and pattern arranging adopt a color separation layering method, the white warp yarns are 6 shafts, the dark blue warp yarns are 7 shafts on the lower layer of the stranded wire, and the white ground warp and the dark blue ground warp respectively walk in different size grooves on the upper layer, so that the problem that the white ground warp is stained in the size grooves by the dark blue ground warp can be effectively solved. The sizing machine is separated by the color separation stranded wires before doffing, so that a drafting and stopping worker can determine the color arrangement sequence conveniently, the pattern arrangement is not arranged at the telescopic reed part in front of the sizing machine, the reed is freely dropped, and the production efficiency is high.

3. Drafting and pattern plate

Because the ground warp has a large number, the linear density is small, the plain weave interweaving is frequent, and in order to reduce the friction between the warp yarns and the heddles and reduce the broken warp, the ground warp adopts 4 pages of heddles to reduce the heddle density. The drafting sequence is as follows: 16 × (1,2,3,4),1,5,2,6,3,5,4,6,1,5,2,3,4,1,2,3,7,4,8,1,7,2,8,3,7,4,16 × (1,2,3,4),1, 9,2,10,3,9,4,10,1,9,2,3,4,1,2,3,11,4,12,1,11,2,12,3,11, 4.

The texture map is shown in FIG. 3.

4. Weaving

The ZA209 air jet loom is adopted, a double-beam 12-page heald weaving mode is adopted, plain weaves with more interweaving points are woven on 1-4 pages of healds to reduce the end breakage rate, the warp yarns are woven on 5-12 pages of healds, the ground beam is arranged below the heald loom, the adjustable let-off with set tension is adopted on the warp loom shaft, the passive let-off is adopted on the warp loom shaft, the double-beam weaving mode can ensure that the tension is consistent when the ground warp yarns and the warp yarns are woven, if the single-beam weaving mode is adopted, the warp yarns are loosened due to less interweaving points, warp stop sheets drop, and the vehicle is.

Because the variety tightness is high, the requirement on beating-up force is also high, the opening of the high-density fabric is not easy to be clear, and the process of higher back beam, higher tension and earlier opening is adopted. The adoption of a higher back beam height ensures that the tension of the warp yarns on the upper layer is slightly loose, which is beneficial to the warp yarns of the high-density poplin fabric to be close to each other and is beneficial to eliminating reed marks; the lower layer warp tension is large, which is beneficial to tightening weft yarns, but the rear beam is not too high, otherwise, the lower layer tension is too large, which easily causes breakage of fine and special warp yarns. And finally, determining that the height of the back beam is set to be +9 grids, and setting the front position and the rear position of the back beam to be +2 grids. The height of the warp stop frame is set to be-3 grids, the front position and the rear position are 9 grids, and the front edge of the warp stop frame is declined, so that the distance between the yarn sheet at the level of the heald surface and the front edge of the warp stop frame is 3mm, a certain jitter of the yarn sheet is ensured, and the accumulation of flying flowers on the yarn sheet is reduced.

The upper machine tension is set to be 1560N, the opening time is set to be 295 degrees, the earlier opening is beneficial to shed opening and clearing, the shed height is large during weft insertion, and the weft shrinkage defects easily generated by high-warp density fabrics are reduced. The weft insertion process adopts a low-pressure medium weft insertion process, the main jet pressure is 0.26MPa, and the auxiliary jet pressure is 0.32 MPa.

The main jet is 90-180 degrees, and the yarn blocking needle is 90-120 degrees; the auxiliary nozzles are 100-180 degrees in group 1, 120-200 degrees in group 2, 140-220 degrees in group 3, and 160-260 degrees in group 4. The arrival angle of the weft yarn is 240 degrees, and in order to avoid the weft yarn from retracting at the opposite side of the shed to generate side weft shrinkage, the jet time of the fourth group of auxiliary nozzles is properly prolonged to 260 degrees.

The front and back surfaces of the grey fabric before the clipping and the fabric front surface before the clipping and the fabric appearance effect after the clipping and the clipping are shown in figure 4 and figure 5 respectively.

The invention designs and weaves the thin extra-high density warp-direction embroidery-imitated fabric, mainly pay attention to the following process technology key:

1. the distance between the cotton-raising areas after the cotton-cutting is not suitable to be too small, otherwise the feeding difficulty of the cotton-cutting machine is caused, and meanwhile, the distance is too small, the weaving difficulty of grey cloth is increased due to too dense cotton-raising areas; too large space results in less warp and less warp yarn, which is not favorable to the uniform distribution of warp yarn on the warp yarn shaft and uneven tension.

2. The warp density of the flower is higher than the ground warp density, and the density of the flower area is higher, so that the cut flower is favorable for plump fluff.

3. The double-shaft weaving mode is adopted, and if the number of the warp yarns is too small, the sectional warping and warp yarn mode of a warp sizing combination machine can be adopted.

4. When the fine and special warp yarns are sized, the coating of hairiness is required, the wear resistance during weaving is increased, the weaving process is focused on opening and clearing the shed, and defects of 'reed marks' and 'weft shrinkage' are reduced.

Claims

1. A design method of a thin and ultra-high density imitated embroidery fabric is characterized in that: the specific design is as follows:

1) designing yarns: the fabric yarn is divided into a ground warp, a flower warp and a weft;

2) fabric tightness design: the fabric main body is a plain weave ground part without raising, so the warp tightness Ej of the ground weave without raising is 61.5%, and the weft tightness Ew is 43.4%;

3) designing the fabric density:

a. the regional meridian density:

namely, it is

Obtaining finished product warp density Pj which is 486 pieces/10 cm;

although the warp tightness of the flower area is large, the flower warp yarns are in an overlapped state, the flower warp yarns are only interwoven with the weft yarns in the consolidation area, and the rest part of the flower warp yarns are in a warp float yarn state without interweaving, so that the integral weaving of the fabric is not greatly increasedDifficulty of manufacture;

4) fabric width: determining the width of a finished product to be 145.5cm according to the tailoring requirement of the clothing;

5) designing a fabric pattern: the pattern design is mainly planar, and the local part is decorated with an imitated embroidery effect formed by cutting flowers; pink purple and navy blue flower channels are embedded in thin strips with alternate blue and white colors, the flower types of the flower shearing of the navy blue and the pink purple flower channels are required to be staggered up and down, adjacent left and right and in remote response, the fine and smooth middle is clear, the quiet middle is agile, and the plane is three-dimensional and sharp;

6) the main process design is as follows:

A. one-reed dent calculation

B. average number of penetration per reed

2.24 pieces/tooth (30 × 5+4 × 10)/85;

C. average warp density of finished product

D. number of full width warp

E. flower splitting process

F. width of grey cloth and reeding width

G. metric reed wire number

the official reed number is (3756/156.6) × 10 is (240);

in the design of the fabric pattern, the pattern layout is as follows: the design of the pattern adopts a longitudinal strip plain weave area as a main part, a warp pattern forming area as an auxiliary part, the area adopts a blue and white strip interval arrangement mode, and the number of warp yarns contained in each strip of blue and white is 5 respectively; the strip width is equal to the number of the strips/the warp density is equal to 5/4.86 is equal to 1.02mm, pink purple and navy blue warp pattern samples are dotted between partial white strips, the warp and the ground warp in the warp pattern forming area are respectively 5 strips, and the arrangement ratio is 1: 1; after weaving, trimming off the back floating long thread through after finishing to form the front embroidery imitating effect;

in the design of the fabric pattern, the relative distance is as follows: one flower (namely one circulation) has 34 warp color strips with blue and white alternated, wherein 30 blue and white strips are plain ground color strips, and each strip has 5 warp yarns; the 4 color stripes are warp-raising color stripes, each color stripe comprises 10 warp yarns, the flower warp yarns are embedded between the white ground yarns, and the ground yarns and the flower warp yarns are respectively 5 warp yarns;

the width of one flower is 34 × 1.02-34.7 mm.