CN106906552A - There is the production method of the random pipe cloth of the broadwise arrangement of warp-direction stretch using the woven systemic circulation of high-shrinkage yarn - Google Patents
There is the production method of the random pipe cloth of the broadwise arrangement of warp-direction stretch using the woven systemic circulation of high-shrinkage yarn Download PDFInfo
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- CN106906552A CN106906552A CN201710197093.5A CN201710197093A CN106906552A CN 106906552 A CN106906552 A CN 106906552A CN 201710197093 A CN201710197093 A CN 201710197093A CN 106906552 A CN106906552 A CN 106906552A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D3/00—Woven fabrics characterised by their shape
- D03D3/02—Tubular fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/01—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
- D06M15/03—Polysaccharides or derivatives thereof
- D06M15/11—Starch or derivatives thereof
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
- D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M15/327—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated alcohols or esters thereof
- D06M15/333—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated alcohols or esters thereof of vinyl acetate; Polyvinylalcohol
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
- D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
- D06M2200/40—Reduced friction resistance, lubricant properties; Sizing compositions
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
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- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
There is the production method of the random pipe cloth of the broadwise arrangement of warp-direction stretch the invention discloses a kind of woven systemic circulation of utilization high-shrinkage yarn, comprise the following steps：Fabric specification is designed, and --- grain pattern artistic conception designs --- technological design --- production technology.Fabric feature of the invention is the woven fabric of high-shrinkage yarn compared to common stretch yarn, and during due to weaving fabric, high convergency warp yarn shrinkage is identical with common warp thread, thus difficulty of weaving is small, efficiency high, and processing cost is low.Simply in the humid heat treatment of dyeing and finishing processing, ability high convergency warp thread has just shunk pipe formation broadwise pipe fabric.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to pipe cloth field, and in particular to one kind using the woven systemic circulation of high-shrinkage yarn have warp-direction stretch,
The production method of the random pipe cloth of broadwise arrangement, using high-shrinkage fibre warp thread and fabric structure produce with Weftwise stretch
, systemic circulation broadwise random alignment unrest pipe cloth.
Background technology
Traditional tubing is alternately weaved by table, nexine fabric woven, by same weft yarn, in the both sides of loom, is handed over
For the wefting insertion system of knitting, beautiful property product is exactly rotary hose, will typically use Shuttle Loom for Weaving.Modern shuttleless loom is all
Unilateral wefting insertion, the tubing being made into has not been traditional tubing, but in fabric face, some areas,
Form the fabric similar to tubulose, remainder or common fabric.
The characteristics of broadwise arrangement unrest tubing is to seem random distribution at random on the surface of fabric local broadwise
Pipe, and with broadwise tensile elasticity effect, it is appearance style novel and unique, comfortable and easy to wear flexible, suitably make women's dress skirting and
Summer cotte fabric.Added value is high.Length, width, number, distributing position, the pipe of cop can be changed according to decoration needs
Sub- spacing etc..
The content of the invention
Goal of the invention：It is woven big using high-shrinkage yarn the invention provides one kind in order to solve the deficiencies in the prior art
The production method of the random pipe cloth that circulation is arranged with warp-direction stretch, broadwise.
Technical scheme：A kind of woven systemic circulation of utilization high-shrinkage yarn has the random pipe cloth of the broadwise arrangement of warp-direction stretch
Production method, comprises the following steps：Fabric specification is designed, and --- grain pattern artistic conception designs --- technological design --- production technology；Institute
In stating production technology, warping technology：To have ensured that cloth cover is neat and well spaced at pipe, it is smooth not play cloth cover at pipe, and piece yarn tension is wanted during warping
Uniformly, following measure is taken：The warping few axle technique of bull, increases density of the warp thread in dent in warp thread winding process, subtracts
Less because the excessively dilute and increased warp thread of dent is in the distribution width of warp beam；Segmentation and regionalization configures tension pulley, Zi front-seat to heel row
Power configuration is gradually reduced, and middle level tension force is more than levels；
Slashing technique：Warp thread is made up of high convergency warp thread and common warp thread, and high convergency strand is not required to starching, using dry doubling work
Skill forms beam of a loom；Common warp thread needs starching, and due to using the comprehensive pages of page 10 through playing broadwise unrest pipe cloth tissue, comprehensive page is more, and page is comprehensive afterwards
It is clear that opening is difficult, and weft yarn strength is low, and starching is increased based on wearability with being coated to filoplume, is impregnated with supplemented by enhancing；Common warp thread
The beam of a loom of slurry axle and high convergency strand is carried out and closed in operation of gaiting, and forms full width warp systems；Slashing technique parameter：Speed
50m/min；Squeezing roller pressure：Side pressure 3KN, the first squeezing roller 12KN, the second squeezing roller 10KN；Solid content 10-12%, viscosity 8-
10 seconds (funnel water number 3.7 seconds) 95-97 DEG C of slurry groove temperatures, rate of sizing 10-12%, regain 5.5-7.5%, elongation 0.5-
1%；
Formula of size：Thin boiling starch 50kg, PVA25kg, propylene KT：1kg, wax disk(-sc) YL：2kg.
Preferably：In the fabric specification design,
A. raw yarn condition：
According to comfortableness and exquisiteness be frivolous, the style of " soft, sliding, bullet " and taking for comfortableness require design requirement, it is determined that
Combined through weft yarn；
Weft yarn is combined：Weft yarn uses Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production；
Combinations of warps：Warp thread first：Using Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production；
Warp thread second：Using the high-shrinkage fibre strand that line density is larger；
Arrangement ratio：High convergency warp thread：Common warp thread=1:2, it is also possible to use other ratios according to aeroelastic requirements, if through
It is big to elastic force requirement, then increase the ratio of elastic force warp thread；
B. determine through broadwise tightness：Warp-wise tightness is defined as Ej=50%, broadwise tightness is defined as Ew=40%.
Preferably：In grain pattern artistic conception design, Ridge tracing be by broadwise pipe and not pipe plain weave between
Every rearranging, randomness, the aesthetic property of density interphase, the planarization of cloth cover and the warp-wise of cop intermittent arrangement are considered
The control of shrinkage needs, the length of reasonable arrangement pipe, width and do not rise pipe plain weave ratio；To consider during design
Below some：
A cop tissues：Cop tissue is played by the elasticity that the warp at the back side floats line long makes cloth cover front raised, in cop shape
The effect of stereoeffect and imparting fabric warp direction stretching elastic force；
B plain weaves：Plain weave between cop is more due to intertwined point, and warp thread is difficult to shrink by constraint, so as to rise
To cloth cover is stablized, prevent from shrinking, increase the smooth effect of cloth cover；
C pipes width, tube pitch and corresponding radical：Pipe width is narrow or pipe arranges excessively sparse then pipe in warp-wise
Raised effect it is unobvious, elastic force is also weak, conversely, pipe width is wide, plain weave between the excessively intensive then pipe of cop of warp-wise distribution
Region narrows, cloth cover warp-wise shrink big and cloth cover be difficult it is smooth；
Because broadwise pipe can shrink raised under elastic force effect after machine under fabric, and narrow, be difficult measurement, then must be with pipe
Pipe fill yarn ends have been calculated on the basis of the spreading width of son；
D pipes are overlapped：Adjacent pipe is overlapped, and does not refer to that pipe is really covered each other, but side projection is overlapped, such as same
The projection of the trees that row height differs is stacked.Do not overlap that then grain pattern is excessively stiff, random effect is not obvious, but overlapping can be caused
Pipe is more intensive herein, thus the projected length proportion for overlapping is small, is usually no more than single tube length 1/4, so that
Ensure the harmony of cloth cover entirety stress；
E cops are arranged：Because the arrangement regulation of different pipes depends on maximum comprehensive number of pages, and the comprehensive number of pages of dobby machine is most
Greatly page 16, according to organization chart, comprehensive number of pages needed for each pipe be page 1, pipe way need with not playing the plain weave of pipe page 2 it is comprehensive, together
When also to consider selvage weave and reduce difficulty of weaving.Because the complex line version of grain pattern is more long, it is changeable to gait, Fig. 3 is CAD lines
Sample design drawing, position straggly six kind pipes composition, i.e. A, B, C, D, E, F, it is considered to pipe weight different by different in size, quantity
Folded and plain weave ground, need altogether page 10 it is comprehensive；
Random pipe is arranged as the A pipe of A, B, C, A, B, D, A, E, F, i.e., 3,2 B pipes from top to bottom, and C, D, E, F manage each 1 mistake
Fall arrangement；
F often circulates radical：
1 often circulates warp thread radical：Elastic force warp thread and common Warp Tension Test ratio=1:2, the widest part is two B pipes；
Often between circulation warp thread radical=every B pipes warp thread radical × pipe of 2+ two at a distance of the tube head tail of warp thread radical+two apart
Warp thread radical；
2 often circulation circulation fill yarn ends：
Often pipe fill yarn ends are 6, and each cop is apart 16 latitudes, A pipes 3, B pipes 2, remaining C, D, E, F each
Root, then fill yarn ends between each circulates fill yarn ends=3 × A+2 × B+C+D+E+F+ pipes.
Preferably：In the technological design, ground tissue, Selvage Stitch wear 4 per reed, and wherein Selvage Stitch uses latitude weight
Flat tissue；Design of gaiting is as follows：
Intertwined point it is more plain weave ground and selvedge be through page the 1st, 2 it is comprehensive, reason is that above comprehensive page Opening Travel is smaller, weft yarn
Stretcher strain is small, advantageously reduces weaving end breakage rate, and body wears method using subregion, different according to shedding rule, its order of gaiting
It is as follows：
Selvedge：(1,1；2,2)×12×2；Body：(3,1,2) × 3, (4,1,2) × 8, (5,1,2) × 5, (6,1,2) ×
6, (5,1,2) × 3, (7,1,2) × 3, (8,1,2) × 3, (9,1,2) × 3, (10,1,2) × 6；Page totally 10 it is comprehensive.
Preferably：In production technology, weaving process：Using air-jet loom weaving, slightly larger tension force in technique, slightly
Back rest relative position high, slower opening time, less opening angle；Specific process parameter is：Speed：520rpm；Afterwards
Low+the 1l of deck-molding, front and rear 4 lattice；Warp stop frame height -1, front and rear+3 lattice；Opening time：320 degree, main burner pressure 0.25-0.3MPa,
Pilot jet pressure 0.35-0.38MPa；Workshop moisture temperature controls 26 ± 2 DEG C, 70 ± 2%.
Preferably：In production technology, postfinishing process flow：Singe-move back and boil drift-cellulase treatment-drift
In vain-dyeing-tentering-sizing-softness-package；Singe：Anti- using two positive two, series of singing should be up to 3-4 grades；Desizing：
Using the slurry in desizing enzyme removal weaving process under higher temperature, fully washing is noted, slurry is moved back to the greatest extent.
Beneficial effect：Fabric feature of the invention is the woven fabric of high-shrinkage yarn, due to knitting compared to common stretch yarn
When making fabric, high convergency warp yarn shrinkage is identical with common warp thread, thus difficulty of weaving is small, efficiency high, and processing cost is low.Simply exist
Ability high convergency warp thread has just shunk pipe formation broadwise pipe fabric during the humid heat treatment of dyeing and finishing processing.
Brief description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is the cop schematic illustration of tissue in the present invention；
Fig. 2 is the cop structural representation in the present invention；
Fig. 3 is the CAD Ridge tracing figures in the present invention.
Specific embodiment
With reference to specific embodiment, the invention will be further described.
Specific embodiment
It is as follows through playing cop fabric principle of compositionality：Weft yarn is common yarn, and warp thread is met by normal weft and in Final finishing
High-shrinkage fibre (such as high-shrinkage polyester, acrylic bulky yarn, polypropylene fibre) warp thread that heat treatment can shrink is spaced,
Such as Fig. 1, pipe warp systems are played as common warp thread (in Fig. 1 and Fig. 21 shown in) and high convergency warp thread (2 institutes in Fig. 1 and Fig. 2
Show) it is spaced by a certain percentage, common warp thread forms pipe warp-wise tube body, and sinks to the high-shrinkage fibre of envers
Through floating line long, identical with common warp yarn shrinkage with after lower machine when fabric is weaved, cloth cover is smooth, but is processed by dyeing and finishing in fabric
Humid heat treatment after can be because highly shrinkable and contraction in length, the effect of its shrinkage tensions drives the common woven fabric face of warp thread
Convex to form with the tubing (such as Fig. 2) arranged through elastic force, broadwise.
1. Fabric Style and taking are designed
Elastic force unrest pipe cloth belongs to summer skirt dress and jacket fashion material, it is desirable to the frivolous exquisiteness of quality is fine and close, color is simple and elegant,
Ventilative, high resilience comfortable and easy to wear, novel appearance, with the tubulose decorative effects that interrupted broadwise rises and falls, embody fabric fine and smooth
In it is slightly rough, and with soft, sliding, bullet individual style, form unique elastic force bubble wrinkle effect.
2. fabric specification
2.1 raw yarn conditions
According to comfortableness and exquisiteness be frivolous, the style of " soft, sliding, bullet " and taking for comfortableness require design requirement, it is determined that
Combined through weft yarn.
Weft yarn is combined：Weft yarn uses Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production, such as JC14.6tex.
Combinations of warps：Warp thread first：Using Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production, such as JC14.6tex；
Warp thread second：Using the high-shrinkage fibre strand that line density is larger, such as high-contraction polyester terylene strand, acrylic fiber is swollen
Body strand etc..
Arrangement ratio：High convergency warp thread：Common warp thread=1:2, it is also possible to use other ratios according to aeroelastic requirements, if through
It is big to elastic force requirement, then increase the ratio of elastic force warp thread.
2.2 determine through broadwise tightness
The tightness of fabric is the key for influenceing fabric construction, the quality and difficulty of weaving of fabric is also determined, according to random pipe
Taking elastic force requirement, playing pipe needs for cloth, considers in machine shrinkage, lower machine amplitude-frequency, arranges shrinkage, and reference colored knits elastic force poplin cloth
Through broadwise tightness, warp-wise tightness is defined as Ej=50% or so, broadwise tightness is defined as Ew=40% or so.
3. grain pattern artistic conception design
Ridge tracing is really to be spaced to constitute with the plain weave for not playing pipe by broadwise pipe, need to consider cop interrupted
The control of the randomness of arrangement, the aesthetic property of density interphase, the planarization of cloth cover and warp-wise shrinkage needs, reasonable arrangement pipe
Length, width and do not rise pipe plain weave ratio.To consider during design it is following some：
3.1 cop tissues
Cop tissue is played by the elasticity that the warp at the back side floats line long makes cloth cover front raised, in cop shape stereoeffect and
Assign the effect of fabric warp direction stretching elastic force.
3.2 plain weaves
Plain weave between cop is more due to intertwined point, and warp thread is difficult to shrink by constraint, so as to play stabilization cloth cover,
Prevent from shrinking, increase the smooth effect of cloth cover.
3.3 pipe width, tube pitch and corresponding radical
Pipe width is narrow or pipe is not obvious in the raised effect that warp-wise arranges excessively sparse then pipe, and elastic force is also weak,
Conversely, pipe width is wide, the cop of warp-wise distribution is excessively intensive, plain area narrows between pipe, and cloth cover warp-wise shrinks big and cloth
Face is difficult smooth.
Because broadwise pipe can shrink raised under elastic force effect after machine under fabric, and narrow, be difficult measurement, then must be with pipe
Pipe fill yarn ends have been calculated on the basis of the spreading width of son.For example this fabric pipe width be 2mm, according to fabric blank filling density=
300 (roots/10cm) then play pipe fill yarn ends=2 × 3=6 roots.Each pipe line space design is 4mm, then between pipe plain weave latitude
Yarn radical=4 × 4=16 roots.
3.4 pipes are overlapped
Adjacent pipe is overlapped, and does not refer to that pipe is really covered each other, but side projection is overlapped, as a line height differs
The projection of trees be stacked.Do not overlap that then grain pattern is excessively stiff, random effect is not obvious, but overlapping can cause pipe herein
It is more intensive, thus the projected length proportion for overlapping is small, single tube length 1/4 is usually no more than, so as to ensure that cloth cover is whole
The harmony of body stress.
3.5 cops are arranged
Because the arrangement regulation of different pipes depends on maximum comprehensive number of pages, and the comprehensive number of pages of dobby machine is page 16 to the maximum,
The organization chart according to Fig. 2, comprehensive number of pages needed for each pipe be page 1, pipe way need with not playing the plain weave of pipe page 2 it is comprehensive, while
Also to consider selvage weave and reduce difficulty of weaving.Because the complex line version of grain pattern is more long, it is changeable to gait, Fig. 3 is CAD grain patterns
Design drawing, position straggly six kind pipes composition, i.e. A, B, C, D, E, F, it is considered to pipe overlap different by different in size, quantity
With plain weave ground, need altogether page 10 it is comprehensive.
Random pipe is arranged as the A pipe of A, B, C, A, B, D, A, E, F, i.e., 3,2 B pipes from top to bottom, and C, D, E, F manage each 1 mistake
Fall arrangement.
3.6 often circulate radical
3.6.1 often in circulation warp thread radical such as Fig. 3, elastic force warp thread and common Warp Tension Test ratio=1:2, the widest part
It is two B pipes.
(1) every B pipes radical=16 × (2+1)=48 (root)；
At a distance of=6 × (2+1)=18 (root) between (2) two pipes or so；
(3) two tube head tails or so are at a distance of=12 × (2+1)=36 (root)；
Often between circulation warp thread radical=every B pipes warp thread radical × pipe of 2+ two at a distance of the tube head tail of warp thread radical+two apart
Warp thread radical=(1)+(2)+(3)=48 × 2+18+36=150 (root)
3.6.2 often circulation circulates fill yarn ends
Often pipe fill yarn ends are 6, and each cop is apart 16 latitudes, A pipes 3, B pipes 2, remaining C, D, E, F each
Root.Then
Fill yarn ends between each circulation fill yarn ends=3 × A+2 × B+C+D+E+F+ pipe
=3 × 6+2 × 6+6+6+6+6+16 × 9
=198
4. technological design
4.1 main technologic parameters
Ground tissue, Selvage Stitch wear 4 per reed.Wherein Selvage Stitch uses weft rib weave.
4.2 gait design
Intertwined point it is more plain weave ground and selvedge be through page the 1st, 2 it is comprehensive, reason is that above comprehensive page Opening Travel is smaller, weft yarn
Stretcher strain is small, advantageously reduces weaving end breakage rate, and body wears method using subregion, different according to shedding rule, its order of gaiting
It is as follows：
Selvedge：(1,1；2,2)×12×2；Body：(3,1,2) × 3, (4,1,2) × 8, (5,1,2) × 5, (6,1,2) ×
6, (5,1,2) × 3, (7,1,2) × 3, (8,1,2) × 3, (9,1,2) × 3, (10,1,2) × 6.
Page totally 10 it is comprehensive.
5. production technology is crucial
5.1 selvage Designs
Selvedge is widened to prevent from narrowing after shrinking, and wrinkles, it is ensured that the expanding effect that loom temple is good in weaving, and can hold
Selvedge is acted on by pin pincers chain in dyeing and printing process.
5.2 warping technologies
To have ensured that cloth cover is neat and well spaced at pipe, it is smooth not play cloth cover at pipe, wants piece yarn tension uniform during warping, takes and arranges as follows
Apply：
The warping few axle technique of bull, increases density of the warp thread in dent in warp thread winding process, reduces due to dent
Cross distribution width of dilute and increased warp thread in warp beam；Segmentation and regionalization configures tension pulley, from it is front-seat to heel row tension scheme gradually
Reduce, middle level tension force is more than levels.
5.3 slashing techniques
Because warp thread is made up of high convergency warp thread and common warp thread, high convergency strand is not required to starching, using dry doubling technique shape
Into beam of a loom.
Common warp thread needs starching, and due to using the comprehensive pages of page 10 through playing broadwise unrest pipe cloth tissue, comprehensive page is more, afterwards the comprehensive opening of page
It is clear to be difficult, and weft yarn strength is low, and the purpose of starching should, to be coated to filoplume, be increased based on wearability, be impregnated with supplemented by enhancing.
The common slurry axle of warp thread and the beam of a loom of high convergency strand are carried out and closed in operation of gaiting, and form full width warp systems.
5.3.1 slashing technique parameter
Speed 50m/min；Squeezing roller pressure：Side pressure 3KN, the first squeezing roller 12KN, the second squeezing roller 10KN
Solid content 10-12%, viscosity 8-10 seconds (funnel water number 3.7 seconds) 95-97 DEG C of slurry groove temperature, rate of sizing 10-12%,
Regain 5.5-7.5%, elongation 0.5-1%.
5.3.2 formula of size
Thin boiling starch 50kg, PVA25kg propylene KT-1 (kg) wax disk(-sc)s YL-2 (kg).
6. weaving process
Using air-jet loom weaving, slightly larger tension force in technique, slightly higher back rest relative position, slower opening time,
Less opening angle.Specific process parameter is：Speed：520rpm；Back rest height+1l, front and rear 4 lattice；Warp stop frame height -1, it is preceding
+ 3 lattice afterwards；Opening time：320 degree, main burner pressure 0.25-0.3MPa, pilot jet pressure 0.35-0.38MPa.Workshop is warm and humid
26 ± 2 DEG C of degree control, 70 ± 2%.
7. Final finishing
Postfinishing process flow:Singe-move back and boil drift-cellulase treatment-bleaching-dyeing-tentering-sizing-soft
Soft-package.
Singe：Anti- using two positive two, series of singing should be up to 3-4 grades；Desizing：Knitted using the removal of desizing enzyme at relatively high temperatures
Slurry during making, notes fully washing, slurry is moved back to the greatest extent.
The present invention is not limited to above-mentioned preferred forms, and anyone can show that other are various under enlightenment of the invention
The product of form, however, make any change in its shape or structure, it is every with skill identical or similar to the present application
Art scheme, is within the scope of the present invention.
Claims (6)
1. a kind of woven systemic circulation of utilization high-shrinkage yarn has the production method of the random pipe cloth of the broadwise arrangement of warp-direction stretch, its
It is characterised by：Comprise the following steps：Fabric specification is designed, and --- grain pattern artistic conception designs --- technological design --- production technology；Institute
In stating production technology, warping technology：To have ensured that cloth cover is neat and well spaced at pipe, it is smooth not play cloth cover at pipe, and piece yarn tension is wanted during warping
Uniformly, following measure is taken：The warping few axle technique of bull, increases density of the warp thread in dent in warp thread winding process, subtracts
Less because the excessively dilute and increased warp thread of dent is in the distribution width of warp beam；Segmentation and regionalization configures tension pulley, Zi front-seat to heel row
Power configuration is gradually reduced, and middle level tension force is more than levels；
Slashing technique：Warp thread is made up of high convergency warp thread and common warp thread, and high convergency strand is not required to starching, using dry doubling technique shape
Into beam of a loom；Common warp thread needs starching, and due to using the comprehensive pages of page 10 through playing broadwise unrest pipe cloth tissue, comprehensive page is more, afterwards the comprehensive opening of page
It is clear to be difficult, and weft yarn strength is low, and starching is increased based on wearability with being coated to filoplume, is impregnated with supplemented by enhancing；The slurry axle of common warp thread
Beam of a loom with high convergency strand is carried out and closed in operation of gaiting, and forms full width warp systems；Slashing technique parameter：Speed 50m/
min；Squeezing roller pressure：Side pressure 3KN, the first squeezing roller 12KN, the second squeezing roller 10KN；Solid content 10-12%, viscosity 8-10 seconds
(funnel water number 3.7 seconds) 95-97 DEG C of slurry groove temperature, rate of sizing 10-12%, regain 5.5-7.5%, elongation 0.5-1%；
Formula of size：Thin boiling starch 50kg, PVA25kg, propylene KT：1kg, wax disk(-sc) YL：2kg.
2. the woven systemic circulation of utilization high-shrinkage yarn according to claim 1 has the random pipe of the broadwise arrangement of warp-direction stretch
The production method of cloth, it is characterised in that：In the fabric specification design,
A. raw yarn condition：
According to comfortableness and exquisiteness be frivolous, the style of " soft, sliding, bullet " and taking for comfortableness require design requirement, longitude and latitude is determined
Yarn is combined；
Weft yarn is combined：Weft yarn uses Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production；
Combinations of warps：Warp thread first：Using Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production；
Warp thread second：Using the high-shrinkage fibre strand that line density is larger；
Arrangement ratio：High convergency warp thread：Common warp thread=1:2, it is also possible to other ratios are used according to aeroelastic requirements, if warp-wise bullet
Power requirement is big, then increase the ratio of elastic force warp thread；
B. determine through broadwise tightness：Warp-wise tightness is defined as Ej=50%, broadwise tightness is defined as Ew=40%.
3. the woven systemic circulation of utilization high-shrinkage yarn according to claim 1 has the random pipe of the broadwise arrangement of warp-direction stretch
The production method of cloth, it is characterised in that：In grain pattern artistic conception design, Ridge tracing be by broadwise pipe with not pipe plain weave
Composition is spaced, randomness, the aesthetic property of density interphase, the planarization of cloth cover and the warp of cop intermittent arrangement is considered
Needed to the control of shrinkage, the length of reasonable arrangement pipe, width and do not rise pipe plain weave ratio；Comprehensively to be examined during design
Consider it is following some：
A cop tissues：Cop tissue is played by the elasticity that the warp at the back side floats line long makes cloth cover front raised, three-dimensional in cop shape
The effect of effect and imparting fabric warp direction stretching elastic force；
B plain weaves：Plain weave between cop is more due to intertwined point, and warp thread is difficult to shrink by constraint, steady so as to play
Determine cloth cover, prevent from shrinking, increase the smooth effect of cloth cover；
C pipes width, tube pitch and corresponding radical：Pipe width is narrow or pipe arranges the convex of excessively sparse then pipe in warp-wise
Play that effect is not clear aobvious, elastic force is also weak, conversely, pipe width is wide, plain area between warp-wise distribution cop excessively intensive then pipe
Narrow, cloth cover warp-wise shrink big and cloth cover be difficult it is smooth；
Because broadwise pipe can shrink raised under elastic force effect after machine under fabric, and narrow, be difficult measurement, then must be with pipe
Pipe fill yarn ends have been calculated on the basis of spreading width；
D pipes are overlapped：Adjacent pipe is overlapped, and does not refer to that pipe is really covered each other, but side projection is overlapped, as a line is high
The projection of the low trees for differing is stacked.Do not overlap that then grain pattern is excessively stiff, random effect is not obvious, but overlapping can cause pipe
It is more intensive herein, thus the projected length proportion for overlapping is small, single tube length 1/4 is usually no more than, so as to ensure
The harmony of cloth cover entirety stress；
E cops are arranged：Because the arrangement regulation of different pipes depends on maximum comprehensive number of pages, and the comprehensive number of pages of dobby machine is to the maximum
Page 16, according to organization chart, comprehensive number of pages needed for each pipe be page 1, pipe way need with not playing the plain weave of pipe page 2 it is comprehensive, while
Consider selvage weave and reduce difficulty of weaving.Because the complex line version of grain pattern is more long, it is changeable to gait, Fig. 3 sets for CAD grain patterns
Meter figure, it is different by different in size, quantity, position it is straggly six kinds of pipes composition, i.e. A, B, C, D, E, F, it is considered to pipe overlap and
Plain weave ground, need altogether page 10 it is comprehensive；
Random pipe is arranged as the A pipe of A, B, C, A, B, D, A, E, F, i.e., 3,2 B pipes from top to bottom, and C, D, E, F manage each 1 row straggly
Row；
F often circulates radical：
1 often circulates warp thread radical：Elastic force warp thread and common Warp Tension Test ratio=1:2, the widest part is two B pipes；
Often between circulation warp thread radical=every B pipes warp thread radical × pipe of 2+ two at a distance of the tube head tail of warp thread radical+two at a distance of warp thread
Radical；
2 often circulation circulation fill yarn ends：
Often pipe fill yarn ends are 6, and each cop is apart 16 latitudes, A pipes 3, B pipes 2, each one of remaining C, D, E, F, then
Fill yarn ends between each circulation fill yarn ends=3 × A+2 × B+C+D+E+F+ pipe.
4. the woven systemic circulation of utilization high-shrinkage yarn according to claim 1 has the random pipe of the broadwise arrangement of warp-direction stretch
The production method of cloth, it is characterised in that：In the technological design, ground tissue, Selvage Stitch wear 4 per reed, and wherein Selvage Stitch is used
Weft rib weave；Design of gaiting is as follows：
Intertwined point it is more plain weave ground and selvedge be through page the 1st, 2 it is comprehensive, reason is that above comprehensive page Opening Travel is smaller, weft yarn stretching
Deformation is small, advantageously reduces weaving end breakage rate, and body wears method using subregion, different according to shedding rule, and its order of gaiting is as follows：
Selvedge：(1,1；2,2)×12×2；Body：(3,1,2) × 3, (4,1,2) × 8, (5,1,2) × 5, (6,1,2) × 6,
(5,1,2) × 3, (7,1,2) × 3, (8,1,2) × 3, (9,1,2) × 3, (10,1,2) × 6；Page totally 10 it is comprehensive.
5. the woven systemic circulation of utilization high-shrinkage yarn according to claim 1 has the random pipe of the broadwise arrangement of warp-direction stretch
The production method of cloth, it is characterised in that：In production technology, weaving process：It is slightly larger in technique to open using air-jet loom weaving
Power, slightly higher back rest relative position, slower opening time, less opening angle；Specific process parameter is：Speed：
520rpm；Back rest height+1l, front and rear 4 lattice；Warp stop frame height -1, front and rear+3 lattice；Opening time：320 degree, main burner pressure
0.25-0.3MPa, pilot jet pressure 0.35-0.38MPa；Workshop moisture temperature controls 26 ± 2 DEG C, 70 ± 2%.
6. the woven systemic circulation of utilization high-shrinkage yarn according to claim 1 has the random pipe of the broadwise arrangement of warp-direction stretch
The production method of cloth, it is characterised in that：In production technology, postfinishing process flow：Singe-move back boil drift-cellulase treatment-
Bleaching-dyeing-tentering-sizing-softness-package；Singe：Anti- using two positive two, series of singing should be up to 3-4 grades；Desizing：
At relatively high temperatures using the slurry in desizing enzyme removal weaving process, fully washing is noted, slurry is moved back to the greatest extent.
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| CN201710197093.5A CN106906552A (en) | 2017-03-29 | 2017-03-29 | There is the production method of the random pipe cloth of the broadwise arrangement of warp-direction stretch using the woven systemic circulation of high-shrinkage yarn |
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| CN201710197093.5A CN106906552A (en) | 2017-03-29 | 2017-03-29 | There is the production method of the random pipe cloth of the broadwise arrangement of warp-direction stretch using the woven systemic circulation of high-shrinkage yarn |
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