CN106958068B - A kind of systemic circulation warp-direction stretch broadwise arranges the production method of random pipe cloth - Google Patents

A kind of systemic circulation warp-direction stretch broadwise arranges the production method of random pipe cloth Download PDF

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CN106958068B
CN106958068B CN201710197998.2A CN201710197998A CN106958068B CN 106958068 B CN106958068 B CN 106958068B CN 201710197998 A CN201710197998 A CN 201710197998A CN 106958068 B CN106958068 B CN 106958068B
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pipe
warp
warp thread
broadwise
yarn
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CN106958068A (en
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佟昀
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Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
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Nantong Textile Vocational Technology College
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D3/00—Woven fabrics characterised by their shape
    • D03D3/02—Tubular fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/02—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with hydrocarbons
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/02—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with hydrocarbons
    • D06M13/03—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with hydrocarbons with unsaturated hydrocarbons, e.g. alkenes, or alkynes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/244—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing sulfur or phosphorus
    • D06M13/282—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing sulfur or phosphorus with compounds containing phosphorus
    • D06M13/292—Mono-, di- or triesters of phosphoric or phosphorous acids; Salts thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/327—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated alcohols or esters thereof
    • D06M15/333—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated alcohols or esters thereof of vinyl acetate; Polyvinylalcohol
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02—Cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses the production method that a kind of systemic circulation warp-direction stretch broadwise arranges random pipe cloth, comprise the following steps：Fabric specification designs, and --- grain pattern artistic conception designs --- technological design --- production technology.Elastic force unrest pipe cloth in the present invention belongs to summer skirt dress and jacket fashion material, it is required that quality it is frivolous it is fine and smooth fine and close, color is simple and elegant, ventilative, high resilience comfortable and easy to wear, novel appearance, the tubulose decorative effects to be risen and fallen with interrupted broadwise, embody slightly rough in fabric exquisiteness, and there is soft, sliding, bullet individual style, form the elastic force bubble wrinkle effect of uniqueness.

Description

A kind of systemic circulation warp-direction stretch broadwise arranges the production method of random pipe cloth
Technical field
The invention belongs to pipe cloth manufacturing field, and in particular to a kind of systemic circulation warp-direction stretch broadwise arranges the production of random pipe cloth Method, specially there is Weftwise stretch, systemic circulation broadwise random alignment using what elastic force warp thread and fabric structure produced Random pipe cloth.
Background technology
Traditional tubing is alternately weaved by table, nexine fabric woven, by same root weft yarn, in the both sides of loom, is handed over Formed for the wefting insertion system of knitting, beautiful property product is exactly rotary hose, will typically use Shuttle Loom for Weaving.Modern shuttleless loom is all Unilateral wefting insertion, the tubing being made into, it has not been traditional tubing, but in fabric face, some areas, Form the fabric similar to tubulose, remainder or common fabric.
The characteristics of elastic force unrest tubing is to seem random distribution at random on the surface of fabric local broadwise pipe, And there is broadwise tensile elasticity effect, and it is appearance style novel and unique, comfortable and easy to wear flexible, suitably make women's dress skirting and summer is tight Body coat fabric.Added value is high.Can according to decoration needs, change the length of cop, width, number, distributing position, pipe way away from Deng.
The content of the invention
Goal of the invention：In order to solve the deficiencies in the prior art, the invention provides a kind of systemic circulation warp-direction stretch broadwise row Arrange the production method of random pipe cloth.
Technical scheme：A kind of systemic circulation warp-direction stretch broadwise arranges the production method of random pipe cloth, comprises the following steps：Fabric --- grain pattern artistic conception designs --- technological design --- production technology to specifications design；Wherein, in the grain pattern artistic conception design, grain pattern Design is spaced with not playing the plain weave of pipe by broadwise pipe and formed, and considers randomness, the density of cop intermittent arrangement The control of alternate aesthetic property, the planarization of cloth cover and warp-wise shrinkage needs, the length of reasonable arrangement pipe, width, with not Play the ratio of the plain weave of pipe, to consider during design it is following some：
A. cop tissue：The elasticity that cop tissue floats long line by the warp at the back side plays and makes cloth cover front raised, in cop Shape stereoeffect and the effect for assigning fabric warp direction stretching elastic force；
B. plain weave：Because intertwined point is more, warp thread is not easy to shrink by constraint for plain weave between cop, so as to rise To cloth cover is stablized, prevent from shrinking, the smooth effect of increase cloth cover；
C. pipe width, tube pitch and corresponding radical：Pipe width is narrow or pipe is excessively sparse in warp-wise arrangement, manages The raised effect unobvious of son, elastic force is also weak, conversely, pipe width is wide, is put down between the excessively intensive then pipe of cop of warp-wise distribution Line region narrows, cloth cover warp-wise shrink big and cloth cover be not easy it is smooth；
Because broadwise pipe can shrink projection under elastic force effect after machine under fabric, and narrow, be not easy to measure, then must be with pipe Pipe fill yarn ends have been calculated on the basis of the spreading width of son；
D. pipe is overlapping：Adjacent pipe is overlapping, does not refer to that pipe really covers each other, but side projection is overlapping, overlapping It is small to locate the more intensive thus overlapping projected length proportion of pipe, no more than single tube length 1/4, ensure cloth cover integrally by The harmony of power；
E. cop arranges：The arrangement regulation of different pipes depends on maximum comprehensive number of pages, and the comprehensive number of pages of dobby machine is maximum For page 16, comprehensive number of pages needed for each pipe is page 1, pipe way need with not playing the plain weave of pipe page 2 it is comprehensive, while also to consider selvedge Tissue and reduction difficulty of weaving；Because the complex line version of grain pattern is longer, it is changeable to gait, CAD Ridge tracings figure by it is different in size, Quantity is different, position six kinds of pipes composition straggly, i.e. A, B, C, D, E, F, considers that pipe is overlapping with plain weave, needs page 10 altogether It is comprehensive：Random pipe is arranged as A, B, C, A, B, D, A, E, F from top to bottom, i.e. 3 A pipes, 2 B pipes, C, D, E, F manage each 1 row straggly Row；F. radical is often circulated：Often circulate warp thread radical：Elastic force warp thread and common Warp Tension Test ratio=1:2, the widest part is that two B are managed；
Often circulate between warp thread radical=every B pipes warp thread radical × pipe of 2+ two at a distance of the tube head tail of warp thread radical+two apart Warp thread radical；
Often circulation circulation fill yarn ends：Often pipe fill yarn ends are 6, and each cop is apart 16 latitudes, A pipes 3, B pipes 2 Root, each one of remaining C, D, E, F.
Preferably：In the fabric specification design：
A. raw yarn condition：
According to comfortableness and exquisiteness be frivolous, the style of " soft, sliding, bullet " and taking for comfortableness require design requirement, it is determined that Combined through weft yarn；
Weft yarn combines：Weft yarn uses Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production；
Combinations of warps：Warp thread first：Using Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production；
Warp thread second：Using stretch yarn, wherein outer cladding yarn is 75D/36F polyester DTY silks, and core filaments are 40D spandex threads.
Arrangement ratio：Elastic force warp thread：Common warp thread=1:2, other ratios can also be used according to aeroelastic requirements, if warp-wise Elastic force requirement is big, then increases the ratio of elastic force warp thread；
B. determined through broadwise tightness：Warp-wise tightness is defined as Ej=50%, broadwise tightness is defined as Ew=40%.
Preferably：In the technological design, ground tissue, Selvage Stitch wear 4 per reed, and wherein Selvage Stitch uses latitude weight Flat tissue；Gait design：The more plain weave in intertwined point and selvedge be through page 1,2 it is comprehensive, body uses subregion threading method, according to carrying Comprehensive rule is different, and its order of gaiting is as follows：
Selvedge：(1,1；2,2)×12×2；Body：(3,1,2) × 3, (4,1,2) × 8, (5,1,2) × 5, (6,1,2) × 6, (5,1,2) × 3, (7,1,2) × 3, (8,1,2) × 3, (9,1,2) × 3, (10,1,2) × 6；Page totally 10 it is comprehensive.
Preferably：In the production technology, warping technology：Warping will accomplish that " tension force, arrangement, winding " three is equal Even, rolling density suitably increases, and controls in 0.5-0.6g/cm3。
Preferably：In the production technology, slashing technique：Using on tandem sizing box, full drying cylinder, high-pressure slasher Slurry, because broadwise unrest pipe cloth tissue use the comprehensive pages of page 10, comprehensive page is more, and it is clear that the comprehensive opening of rear page is not easy, sizing using be coated to filoplume as It is main；Calculate sizing coverage coefficient and be less than 60%, thus tandem sizing box need not be used, in order to avoid because each stock tank sizing radical is less, The sizing external force shared increases and deteriorates sizing elongation；
Elastic force warp thread and common warp thread substep starching, i.e. 1 stretch yarn beam of a loom, a common warp thread beam of a loom, sizing are completed Afterwards, it is merged into full width warp thread in process of gaiting；
Stretch yarn formula of size：Slurry suggested formula：PVA12.5kg, solid propylene 10kg, wax disk(-sc) YL-2kg, stock tank contain Gu rate 9.0%, stock tank viscosity 9 ± 1 seconds (funnel water number 3.7 seconds), the fast squeezing pressure 0.24Mpa of squeezing roller I, II fast squeezing pressure：Through Axle side 0.3Mpa (being roughly equal to 8.4kN), drying cylinder side are 0.4Mpa (being roughly equal to 9.6kN).The rate of sizing 9%, regain 3.5%, elongation 0.5%, after waxing 0.3%；
Common yarn formula of size：PVA12.5kg, phosphate 30kg, solid propylene 10kg, wax disk(-sc) YL-2kg, stock tank is containing solid Rate 10.5%, stock tank viscosity 9 ± 1 seconds (funnel water number 3.7 seconds), the fast squeezing pressure 0.2Mpa of squeezing roller I, II fast squeezing pressure：Warp beam 8.4kN is roughly equal in side, and drying cylinder side is 9.6kN.The rate of sizing 11%, regain 7.5%.
Preferably：In the production technology, weaving process：Warp thread uses common pure cotton warp thread and elastic force wrap yarn Two kinds of different warp thread, warp tension is different, using two-beam work, so that warp tension controls respectively；Using rapier loom, By 290 degree of heald level time, opening is early, remains silent also early, is advantageous to timely clipped weft yarn end；Right side slitter edge radical is by 12 increases To 18, increase the clamping action to weft yarn end.
Beneficial effect：Elastic force unrest pipe cloth in the present invention belongs to summer skirt dress and jacket fashion material, it is desirable to which quality is light It is thin it is fine and smooth fine and close, color is simple and elegant, ventilative, high resilience comfortable and easy to wear, novel appearance, the tubulose dress that there is interrupted broadwise to rise and fall Effect is adornd, embodies slightly rough in fabric exquisiteness, and there is soft, sliding, bullet individual style, forms unique elastic force bubble wrinkle and imitate Fruit.
Specific advantage in the present invention is as follows：
1. warp-direction stretch unrest pipe cloth is floating the elastic force fabric of long line just by playing the warp of the envers of pipe portion position Face convexes to form solid tubular effect；
2. during design, increase the different height of the cop of elastic force unrest pipe cloth, far and near position, cop number, cop length etc., i.e., Increase the varied number in each circulation, random random pipe effect can be produced；
3. design random pipe cloth, pipe width, length, layout are considered to random appearance and cop cloth stress equalization Property influence；
4. the ratio of plain weave and pipe width is to directly affect pipe relief, quality flatness, elastic force shrinkage between pipe, The key factor of fabric width；
5. woven stretch unrest pipe cloth, because comprehensive page is more, yarn linear density is low, Weftwise stretch is big, it is ensured that opening is clear, Knitting technology is adjusted, avoids the faults such as cut edge, looped weft.
Brief description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is the cop schematic illustration of tissue in the present invention；
Fig. 2 is the cop structural representation in the present invention；
Fig. 3 is the CAD Ridge tracing figures in the present invention.
Embodiment
With reference to specific embodiment, the invention will be further described.
Specific embodiment
It is as follows through playing cop fabric principle of compositionality：Warp-direction stretch unrest tubing and production method with stereoeffect, Fabric has novelty, wearing comfort concurrently, as Fashionable women dress fabric, by elastic force through floating long line in envers distributing position Different change straggly, the Weftwise stretch unrest tube effect for seeming horizontal random distribution is formed, simultaneously because the warp-wise of cop can be drawn Stretching property, form warp-wise elasticity.
Such as Fig. 1, the warp systems of cop are played as common warp thread (in Fig. 1 and Fig. 21 shown in) and elastic force warp thread (Fig. 1 and figure In 22 shown in) it is spaced by a certain percentage, common warp thread forms the broadwise tube body (area that B-C-D is surrounded in Fig. 1 Domain), the elastic force for sinking to envers make it that common warp thread is woven through floating the shrinkage tensions of long line (2 in Fig. 1 and Fig. 2) and acting on Fabric face is convexed to form with elastic force tubing.A cop fabric is weaved from Fig. 2 cop tissue it can be seen from the figure that Part is at least comprehensive using page 3, and wherein plain weave solidified portion is page 2 comprehensive.
1. Fabric Style and taking design
Elastic force unrest pipe cloth belongs to summer skirt dress and jacket fashion material, it is desirable to the frivolous exquisiteness of quality is fine and close, color is simple and elegant, Ventilative, high resilience comfortable and easy to wear, novel appearance, have the tubulose decorative effects that interrupted broadwise rises and falls, it is fine and smooth to embody fabric In it is slightly rough, and there is soft, sliding, bullet individual style, form the elastic force bubble wrinkle effect of uniqueness.
2. fabric specification
2.1 raw yarn conditions
According to comfortableness and exquisiteness be frivolous, the style of " soft, sliding, bullet " and taking for comfortableness require design requirement, it is determined that Combined through weft yarn.
Weft yarn combines：Weft yarn uses Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production, such as JC14.6tex.
Combinations of warps：Warp thread first：Using Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production, such as JC14.6tex；
Warp thread second：Using stretch yarn, such as 75D/40D polyester elastic wrap yarns.Wherein outer cladding yarn is 75D/36F terylene DTY silks, core filaments are 40D spandex threads.
Arrangement ratio：Elastic force warp thread：Common warp thread=1:2, other ratios can also be used according to aeroelastic requirements, if warp-wise Elastic force requirement is big, then increases the ratio of elastic force warp thread.
2.2 determine through broadwise tightness
The tightness of fabric is to influence the key of fabric construction, the quality and difficulty of weaving of fabric is also determined, according to random pipe Cloth takes elastic force requirement, plays pipe needs, considers in machine shrinkage, lower machine amplitude-frequency, arranges shrinkage, reference colored knits elastic force poplin cloth Be defined as E through broadwise tightness, warp-wise tightnessj=50% or so, broadwise tightness is defined as Ew=40% or so.
3. grain pattern artistic conception designs
Ridge tracing is really spaced with not playing the plain weave of pipe by broadwise pipe and formed, and it is interrupted need to consider cop The control of the randomness of arrangement, the aesthetic property of density interphase, the planarization of cloth cover and warp-wise shrinkage needs, reasonable arrangement pipe Length, width, with do not rise pipe plain weave ratio.To consider during design it is following some：
3.1 cop tissues
The elasticity that cop tissue floats long line by the warp at the back side plays and makes cloth cover front raised, in cop shape stereoeffect and Assign the effect of fabric warp direction stretching elastic force.
3.2 plain weave
Because intertwined point is more, warp thread is not easy to shrink by constraint for plain weave between cop, so as to play stable cloth cover, Prevent from shrinking, the smooth effect of increase cloth cover.
3.3 pipe width, tube pitch and corresponding radical
Pipe width is narrow or pipe arranges the raised effect unobvious of excessively sparse then pipe in warp-wise, and elastic force is also weak, Conversely, pipe width is wide, the cop of warp-wise distribution is excessively intensive, plain area narrows between pipe, and cloth cover warp-wise shrinks big and cloth Face is not easy smooth.
Because broadwise pipe can shrink projection under elastic force effect after machine under fabric, and narrow, be not easy to measure, then must be with pipe Pipe fill yarn ends have been calculated on the basis of the spreading width of son.Such as this fabric pipe width is 2mm, according to fabric blank filling density= 300 (roots/10cm) then play pipe fill yarn ends=2 × 3=6 roots.Each pipe line space design is 4mm, then between pipe plain weave latitude Yarn radical=4 × 4=16 roots.
3.4 pipes are overlapping
Adjacent pipe is overlapping, does not refer to that pipe really covers each other, but side projection is overlapping, as a line height differs The projections of trees be stacked.Not overlapping then grain pattern is excessively stiff, random effect unobvious, but overlapping can cause pipe here More intensive thus overlapping projected length proportion is small, is usually no more than single tube length 1/4, so as to ensure that cloth cover is whole The harmony of body stress.
3.5 cops arrange
Because the arrangement regulation of different pipes depends on maximum comprehensive number of pages, and the comprehensive number of pages of dobby machine is up to page 16, Comprehensive number of pages needed for each pipe is page 1, pipe way need with not playing the plain weave of pipe page 2 it is comprehensive, while also to consider selvage weave and Reduce difficulty of weaving.Because the complex line version of grain pattern is longer, it is changeable to gait, Fig. 3 is CAD Ridge tracing figures, by it is different in size, Quantity is different, position six kinds of pipes composition straggly, i.e. A, B, C, D, E, F, considers that pipe is overlapping with plain weave, needs page 10 altogether It is comprehensive.
Random pipe is arranged as A, B, C, A, B, D, A, E, F from top to bottom, i.e. 3 A pipes, 2 B pipes, C, D, E, F manage each 1 mistake Fall arrangement.
3.6 often circulate radical
3.6.1 often circulate in warp thread radical such as Fig. 1, elastic force warp thread and common Warp Tension Test ratio=1:2, the widest part
Managed for two B.
(1) every B pipes radical=16 × (2+1)=48 (root)；
At a distance of=6 × (2+1)=18 (root) between (2) two pipes or so；
(3) two tube head tails or so are at a distance of=12 × (2+1)=36 (root)；
Often at a distance of the tube head tail phase of warp thread radical+two between circulation warp thread radical=every B pipes warp thread radical × pipe of 2+ two
Away from warp thread radical=(1)+(2)+(3)=48 × 2+18+36=150 (root)
3.6.2 often circulation circulation fill yarn ends
Often pipe fill yarn ends are 6, and each cop is apart 16 latitudes, A pipes 3, B pipes 2, remaining C, D, E, F each one Root.Then
Fill yarn ends between each circulation fill yarn ends=3 × A+2 × B+C+D+E+F+ pipes
=3 × 6+2 × 6+6+6+6+6+16 × 9
=198
4. technological design
4.1 main technologic parameters
Ground tissue, Selvage Stitch wear 4 per reed.Wherein Selvage Stitch uses weft rib weave.
4.2 gait design
The more plain weave in intertwined point and selvedge be through page 1,2 it is comprehensive, reason is that above comprehensive page Opening Travel is smaller, weft yarn Stretcher strain is small, advantageously reduces weaving end breakage rate, and body uses subregion threading method, different according to shedding rule, its order of gaiting It is as follows：
Selvedge：(1,1；2,2)×12×2；Body：(3,1,2) × 3, (4,1,2) × 8, (5,1,2) × 5, (6,1,2) × 6, (5,1,2) × 3, (7,1,2) × 3, (8,1,2) × 3, (9,1,2) × 3, (10,1,2) × 6.
Page totally 10 it is comprehensive.
5. weaving process
5.1 warping technology
Warping will accomplish that " tension force, arrangement, winding " three is uniform, and rolling density suitably increases, and controls in 0.5-0.6g/cm3
5.2 slashing technique
Using tandem sizing box, full drying cylinder, high-pressure slasher starching, because broadwise unrest pipe cloth tissue uses the comprehensive pages of page 10, comprehensive page More, it is clear that the rear comprehensive opening of page is not easy, and sizing is based on coated filoplume.Calculate sizing coverage coefficient and be less than 60%, thus need not adopt With tandem sizing box, in order to avoid because each stock tank sizing radical is less, the sizing external force shared increases and deteriorates sizing elongation.
Elastic force warp thread and common warp thread substep starching.That is 1 stretch yarn beam of a loom, a common warp thread beam of a loom, sizing are completed Afterwards, it is merged into full width warp thread in process of gaiting.
Stretch yarn formula of size：Slurry suggested formula：PVA12.5kg, solid propylene 10kg, wax disk(-sc) YL-2kg, stock tank contain Gu rate 9.0%, stock tank viscosity 9 ± 1 seconds (funnel water number 3.7 seconds), the fast squeezing pressure 0.24Mpa of squeezing roller I, II fast squeezing pressure：Through Axle side 0.3Mpa (being roughly equal to 8.4kN), drying cylinder side are 0.4Mpa (being roughly equal to 9.6kN).The rate of sizing 9%, regain 3.5%, elongation 0.5%, after waxing 0.3%.
Common yarn formula of size
PVA12.5kg, phosphate 30kg, solid propylene 10kg, wax disk(-sc) YL-2kg, stock tank solid content 10.5%, stock tank sticks Spend 9 ± 1 seconds (funnel water number 3.7 seconds), the fast squeezing pressure 0.2Mpa of squeezing roller I, II fast squeezing pressure：It is roughly equal to 8.4kN, drying cylinder in warp beam side Side is 9.6kN.The rate of sizing 11%, regain 7.5%.
5.3 weaving process
And warp thread uses two kinds of different warp thread of common pure cotton warp thread and elastic force wrap yarn, warp tension is different, to use double Beam of a loom is weaved, so that warp tension controls respectively.
Using rapier loom, by 290 degree of heald level time, opening is early, remains silent also early, is advantageous to timely clipped weft yarn end； Right side slitter edge radical increases to 18 by 12, increases the clamping action to weft yarn end.
The present invention is not limited to above-mentioned preferred forms, and anyone can show that other are various under the enlightenment of the present invention The product of form, however, make any change in its shape or structure, it is every that there is skill identical or similar to the present application Art scheme, is within the scope of the present invention.

Claims (6)

1. a kind of systemic circulation warp-direction stretch broadwise arranges the production method of random pipe cloth, it is characterised in that：Comprise the following steps：Fabric --- grain pattern artistic conception designs --- technological design --- production technology to specifications design；Wherein, in the grain pattern artistic conception design, grain pattern Design is spaced with not playing the plain weave of pipe by broadwise pipe and formed, and considers randomness, the density of cop intermittent arrangement The control of alternate aesthetic property, the planarization of cloth cover and warp-wise shrinkage needs, the length of reasonable arrangement pipe, width, with not Play the ratio of the plain weave of pipe, to consider during design it is following some：
A. cop tissue：The elasticity that cop tissue floats long line by the warp at the back side plays and makes cloth cover front raised, is stood in cop shape Body effect and the effect for assigning fabric warp direction stretching elastic force；
B. plain weave：Because intertwined point is more, warp thread is not easy to shrink by constraint for plain weave between cop, steady so as to play Determine cloth cover, prevent from shrinking, the smooth effect of increase cloth cover；
C. pipe width, tube pitch and corresponding radical：Pipe width is narrow or pipe arranges excessively sparse then pipe in warp-wise Raised effect unobvious, elastic force is also weak, conversely, pipe width is wide, the excessively intensive Ze Guanjian plain weaves area of cop of warp-wise distribution Domain narrows, cloth cover warp-wise shrink big and cloth cover be not easy it is smooth；
Because broadwise pipe can shrink projection under elastic force effect after machine under fabric, and narrow, be not easy to measure, then must be with pipe Pipe fill yarn ends have been calculated on the basis of spreading width；
D. pipe is overlapping：Adjacent pipe is overlapping, does not refer to that pipe really covers each other, but side projection is overlapping, overlapping pipe The more intensive thus overlapping projected length proportion of son is small, no more than single tube length 1/4, ensures cloth cover entirety stress It is harmonious；
E. cop arranges：The arrangement regulation of different pipes depends on maximum comprehensive number of pages, and the comprehensive number of pages of dobby machine is up to 16 Page, comprehensive number of pages needed for each pipe are page 1, pipe way need with not playing the plain weave of pipe page 2 it is comprehensive, while also to consider selvage weave With reduction difficulty of weaving；Because the complex line version of grain pattern is longer, it is changeable to gait, CAD Ridge tracings figure is by different in size, quantity Difference, position six kinds of pipes composition straggly, i.e. A, B, C, D, E, F consider that pipe is overlapping and plain weave, need altogether page 10 it is comprehensive：From Upper and lower random pipe is arranged as A, B, C, A, B, D, A, E, F, i.e. 3 A pipes, 2 B pipes, C, D, E, F manage each 1 and be misplaced；
F. radical is often circulated：Often circulate warp thread radical：Elastic force warp thread and common Warp Tension Test ratio=1:2, the widest part is two B Pipe；
Often circulate between warp thread radical=every B pipes warp thread radical × pipe of 2+ two at a distance of the tube head tail of warp thread radical+two at a distance of warp thread Radical；
Often circulation circulation fill yarn ends：Often pipe fill yarn ends are 6, and each cop is apart 16 latitudes, A pipes 3, B pipes 2, Each one of remaining C, D, E, F.
2. systemic circulation warp-direction stretch broadwise according to claim 1 arranges the production method of random pipe cloth, it is characterised in that：Institute State in fabric specification design：
A. raw yarn condition：
According to comfortableness and exquisiteness be frivolous, the style of " soft, sliding, bullet " and taking for comfortableness require design requirement, longitude and latitude is determined Yarn combines；
Weft yarn combines：Weft yarn uses Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production；
Combinations of warps：Warp thread first：Using Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production；
Warp thread second：Using stretch yarn, wherein outer cladding yarn is 75D/36F polyester DTY silks, and core filaments are 40D spandex threads；
Arrangement ratio：Elastic force warp thread：Common warp thread=1:2；
B. determined through broadwise tightness：Warp-wise tightness is defined as Ej=50%, broadwise tightness is defined as Ew=40%.
3. systemic circulation warp-direction stretch broadwise according to claim 1 arranges the production method of random pipe cloth, it is characterised in that：Institute State in technological design, ground tissue, Selvage Stitch wear 4 per reed, and wherein Selvage Stitch uses weft rib weave；Gait design：Intertwined point More plain weave and selvedge be through page 1,2 it is comprehensive, body use subregion threading method, according to shedding rule difference, its order of gaiting It is as follows：
Selvedge：(1,1；2,2)×12×2；Body：(3,1,2) × 3, (4,1,2) × 8, (5,1,2) × 5, (6,1,2) × 6, (5,1,2) × 3, (7,1,2) × 3, (8,1,2) × 3, (9,1,2) × 3, (10,1,2) × 6；Page totally 10 it is comprehensive.
4. systemic circulation warp-direction stretch broadwise according to claim 1 arranges the production method of random pipe cloth, it is characterised in that：Institute State in production technology, warping technology：Warping will accomplish that " tension force, arrangement, winding " three is uniform, and rolling density suitably increases, control In 0.5-0.6g/cm3。
5. systemic circulation warp-direction stretch broadwise according to claim 1 arranges the production method of random pipe cloth, it is characterised in that：Institute State in production technology, slashing technique：Using tandem sizing box, full drying cylinder, high-pressure slasher starching, because broadwise unrest pipe cloth tissue uses The comprehensive pages of page 10, comprehensive page is more, and it is clear that the rear comprehensive opening of page is not easy, and sizing is based on coated filoplume；Sizing coverage coefficient is calculated to be less than 60%, thus tandem sizing box need not be used, in order to avoid because each stock tank sizing radical is less, the sizing external force shared increases and deteriorated Sizing extends；
Elastic force warp thread and common warp thread substep starching, i.e. 1 stretch yarn beam of a loom, a common warp thread beam of a loom, after the completion of sizing, Process of gaiting is merged into full width warp thread；
Stretch yarn formula of size：Formula of size：PVA12.5kg, solid propylene 10kg, wax disk(-sc) YL-2kg, stock tank solid content 9.0%, stock tank viscosity 9 ± 1 seconds, the fast squeezing pressure 0.24MPa of squeezing roller I, II fast squeezing pressure：Warp beam side 0.3MPa, drying cylinder side are 0.4MPa；The rate of sizing 9%, regain 3.5%, elongation 0.5%, after waxing 0.3%；
Common yarn formula of size：PVA12.5kg, phosphate 30kg, solid propylene 10kg, wax disk(-sc) YL-2kg, stock tank solid content 10.5%, stock tank viscosity 9 ± 1 seconds, the fast squeezing pressure 0.2MPa of squeezing roller I, II fast squeezing pressure：Warp beam side 8.4kN, drying cylinder side are 9.6kN, the rate of sizing 11%, regain 7.5%.
6. systemic circulation warp-direction stretch broadwise according to claim 1 arranges the production method of random pipe cloth, it is characterised in that：Institute State in production technology, weaving process：Warp thread uses two kinds of different warp thread of common pure cotton warp thread and elastic force wrap yarn, and warp tension is not Together, using two-beam work, so that warp tension controls respectively；Using rapier loom, by 290 degree of heald level time, opening is early, Remain silent also early, be advantageous to timely clipped weft yarn end；Right side slitter edge radical increases to 18 by 12, increases to weft yarn end Clamping action.
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CN102776649A (en) * 2012-08-15 2012-11-14 哈尔滨工业大学 Preparation method of hollow fabric with radial elastic shrinkage
CN105200606A (en) * 2015-08-27 2015-12-30 浙江理工大学 Design and weaving method of continuous weft-direction tubular multilayer woven fabric
CN105714444A (en) * 2016-02-05 2016-06-29 江苏工程职业技术学院 Production technology of weft-elastic and warp-tubular fabric
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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE202005005815U1 (en) * 2005-04-08 2005-09-08 Chen, Shun Chin, Sihu Woven elastic strap has two layers each consisting of several elastic fibers with very long core threads of different materials
CN102776649A (en) * 2012-08-15 2012-11-14 哈尔滨工业大学 Preparation method of hollow fabric with radial elastic shrinkage
CN105200606A (en) * 2015-08-27 2015-12-30 浙江理工大学 Design and weaving method of continuous weft-direction tubular multilayer woven fabric
CN105714444A (en) * 2016-02-05 2016-06-29 江苏工程职业技术学院 Production technology of weft-elastic and warp-tubular fabric
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