CN110106601B - Design method and production process of imitated composite cashmere fabric - Google Patents
Design method and production process of imitated composite cashmere fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN110106601B CN110106601B CN201910488784.XA CN201910488784A CN110106601B CN 110106601 B CN110106601 B CN 110106601B CN 201910488784 A CN201910488784 A CN 201910488784A CN 110106601 B CN110106601 B CN 110106601B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D11/00—Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
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- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
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- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
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Abstract
The invention discloses a design method and a production process of an imitated composite cashmere fabric, wherein high-quality cellulose fibers are selected, so that the comfort and the skin-friendly performance of the imitated cashmere fabric are kept, and synthetic fibers are selected, so that the warmth retention of the imitated cashmere fabric is kept; the cashmere fiber and the cellulose fiber have different acid-base properties, and the fiber needs to be dyed and then spun so as to avoid the damage of the fiber during dyeing; by designing the double-layer structure, the thickness of the fabric is increased, and the heat-insulating effect of the fabric is improved; in order to increase the raising quantity, the inner layer fabric uses thicker weft yarns and longer floats; the softness and the bulkiness of the fabric are improved by using smaller warp and weft density; the imitated composite structure avoids using a hot melt agent so as to avoid influencing the fluffiness and softness of the fabric, and is environment-friendly and ecological; and a small amount of cashmere fibers are used, so that the wool shape of the fabric is favorably improved. The invention keeps the excellent performance of the cashmere fabric and solves the problems of poor shape-preserving performance, moth damage and difficult nursing of the cashmere fabric.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of fabric weaving, and particularly relates to a design method and a production process of an imitated composite cashmere fabric.
Background
The cashmere fabric has the characteristics of softness, fluffiness, comfort and warmth retention, the cashmere is called as fiber crown, but the cashmere is high in price and low in yield, the cost of one set of pure cashmere fabric is more than 3000 yuan, the clothing price needs ten thousand yuan, and each goat can only produce 50-80 g of cashmere every year, so that the pure cashmere fabric belongs to luxury goods. And the cashmere fiber is a protein fiber, has inherent defects of the protein fiber, such as poor shape-preserving property, easy moth-eating and difficult nursing, and is difficult to meet the requirements of common consumers.
According to the characteristics of the cashmere fabric, the imitated composite cashmere fabric is developed, and combed long-staple cotton fibers are used for replacing cashmere fibers, so that the comfort performance and elegant quality of the cashmere fabric are maintained as much as possible; according to the characteristic of good heat preservation performance of the cashmere fibers, the fabric adopts measures such as a double-layer composite structure and a napping process, so that the heat preservation function of the fabric is improved.
Disclosure of Invention
The purpose of the invention is as follows: in order to overcome the defects of the prior art, the invention provides a design method and a production process of an imitated composite cashmere fabric.
The technical scheme is as follows: a design method of an imitated composite cashmere fabric comprises the following design steps:
(1) selecting raw materials of the cashmere-like fabric:
the surface layer warp and weft of the fabric are all combed long-staple cotton yarns, the lining layer of the fabric is formed by selecting long-staple cotton yarns as the warp yarns, long-staple cotton/cashmere blended yarns as the weft yarns, and the blending ratio is 90% of the long-staple cotton and 10% of the cashmere;
(2) selecting colored spun yarns:
the cashmere fiber and the cellulose fiber have different acid-base properties, and the fiber needs to be dyed and then spun so as to avoid the damage of the fiber during dyeing; the warp yarns and the weft yarns are spun-dyed yarns, and the patterns of the spun-dyed yarn products are not well defined as the patterns of dyed yarns and have hazy feeling, so that the appearance of the spun-dyed yarns is more like cashmere fibers;
(3) through a plurality of processes, the heat preservation performance of the cashmere-like fabric is improved:
the cashmere-like fabric has a double-layer structure, the thickness of the fabric is increased, and the arrangement ratio of warp and weft of two layers of fabrics is as follows: exterior meridian/interior meridian ═ 1: 1; surface weft/lining weft is 1: 1;
the surface fabric uses 2/2 right twill, and the inner layer weave uses 3/1 right twill; the weft float length of the inner fabric is longer, the inner fabric needs to be subjected to napping finishing, and the float length is long, so that napping is facilitated;
warp and weft yarns of the surface layer tissue are both long stapled cotton combed yarns of 28tex, warp yarns of the inner layer tissue are 14.6tex yarns and only play a role of supporting and interweaving, the weft yarns of the inner layer are blended yarns of 73tex long stapled cotton/cashmere, and the weft yarns of the inner layer are long and floating, thick in yarn count and thick in napping;
the twist factor of the weft yarn of the inner 73tex of the fabric is 306;
and (3) designing the warp and weft density of the double-layer fabric: when the fabric is designed, the warp tightness of the surface fabric is 42.3%, and the weft tightness is 34.7%; the warp tightness of the inner fabric is 30.5%, and the weft tightness of the inner fabric is 56%;
napping and finishing the fabric: after the fabric is subjected to napping finishing for four times, the cashmere feeling is thick and solid, the thickness of the fabric after napping is increased, the contained static air is increased, the cashmere feeling is stronger, and the heat retention performance is greatly improved;
(4) designing the pattern of the fabric: the inner layer of the fabric needs napping finishing, and the color of the inner layer fabric is brown; the surface pattern of the fabric uses common lattice patterns and is suitable for people of all ages to take;
(5) imitating and compounding of the fabric: the imitation composite structure avoids using a hot melt agent so as to avoid influencing the fluffiness and the softness of the fabric, and the fabric uses a lower-connected upper-connected binding mode to bind the two layers of fabrics together.
As an optimization: the finished product width of the fabric is 145cm, the finished product warp density is 433/10 cm, the finished product weft density is 354/10 cm, the surface layer warp and weft yarn counts are 28tex, the inner layer warp yarn is 14.6tex, the inner layer weft yarn is 73tex, the surface layer tissue is 2/2 right slant, the inner layer tissue is 3/1 right slant, the reed number is 191 teeth/10 cm, each reed is 2 in, the loom reed width is 166cm, the gray fabric width is 160cm, the gray fabric warp and weft density is 398/10 cm, and the gray fabric weft density is 339/10 cm.
As an optimization: the color warp arrangement of the fabric is as follows: a represents night blue, B represents brown, C represents beige blue, D represents brown, wherein A, B, C are surface layer 28tex long staple cotton yarn, and D is inner layer 14,6tex long staple cotton warp yarn; the color channels are arranged as (1C, 1D) × 28, (1B, 1D) × 6, (1C, 1D) × 5, (1B, 1D) × 22, (1A, 1D) × 38, (1B, 1D) × 5, (1A, 1D) × 8, (1B, 1D) × 5, (1A, 1D) × 38, (1B, 1D) × 22, (1C, 1D) × 5, (1B, 1D) × 6, (1C, 1D) × 10; the number of cycles of one flower of warp yarns is 440 picks, 84 yarns A, 78 yarns B, 58 yarns C and 220 yarns D in one flower; the full width is 14 flowers, the number of ends is 52, the color of the ends is 26C yarns, 26D yarns, the total number of the warps of the full width is 6340, wherein 1176A yarns, 1092B yarns, 838C yarns, 3106D yarns and 128 side yarns are arranged.
As an optimization: the color weft arrangement of the fabric is as follows: a represents night blue, b represents brown, c represents beige blue, d represents brown, abc represents surface weft yarn, yarn count is 28tex, d represents inner layer weft yarn, and yarn count is 73 tex; the color weft arrangement sequence is as follows: (1b, 1d) × 19, (1c, 1d) × 4, (1b, 1d) × 5, (1c, 1d) × 31, (1b, 1d) × 5, (1c, 1d) × 4, (1b, 1d) × 19, (1a, 1d) × 30, (1b, 1d) × 4, (1a, 1d) × 7, (1b, 1d) × 4, (1a, 1d) × 30; 67 yarns of a, 66 yarns of b, 47 yarns of c and 180 yarns of d in one flower.
The production process of the design method of the imitated composite cashmere fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) spooling: rewinding by using an NO21 winder, 28tex cotton yarn and 73tex cotton/cashmere blended yarn, wherein the rewinding speed is 1100m/min, 14.6tex cotton yarn and 1000 m/min;
(2) warping: warping by using a Beningge warping machine at the speed of 670m/min, separately warping the warps of various colors, and warping 1176 warps A into 2 shafts; 1092 warps B, which are integrated into 2 shafts, 838 warps C and 128 warps C are warped together and integrated into 2 shafts; d, 3106 warp yarns which are integrated into 5 shafts;
(3) sizing: the formula of the sizing agent is 50 percent of JD-N sizing agent and 50 percent of TBS sizing agent, does not need to use auxiliary agents, has the viscosity of 7-8S, the solid content of 11 percent, the sizing rate of 28tex cotton yarn of 10 percent and the sizing rate of 14.6tex cotton yarn of 11.5 percent;
(4) drafting sequence: drafting the selvedge: 2, 2, 1, 2 in per reed. Ground warp: drafting 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 2 in per reed;
(5) weaving:
weaving by using an air jet loom at the rotating speed of 600 r/min;
and (3) biaxial weaving: the yarn count of the surface layer warp and weft is the same, the inner layer warp is 14.6tex, and the inner layer weft is 73tex, so that the buckling of the inner layer warp is large, the warp weaving shrinkage is large, and the surface layer warp is prevented from loosening by adopting a biaxial weaving method;
the yarn count of the surface layer warp and the inner layer warp are different in thickness, and in order to avoid that a vehicle stop worker takes wrong yarns after the ends are broken, the yarns need to be separated by a stranded wire;
weft insertion process: the surface fabric has three kinds of weft yarns, and each weft yarn is fed by one weft accumulator. The weft yarn in the inner layer is thicker, the storage amount of the weft yarn on the yarn storage drum of the weft accumulator is less, and therefore, the weft stop can be reduced by using two weft accumulators for weft supply.
Has the advantages that: the cashmere-like composite fabric developed by the invention is fluffy, soft, comfortable and warm-keeping in process design, process optimization is carried out in multiple aspects, the excellent performance of the cashmere fabric is kept, meanwhile, the cost of the fabric is greatly reduced due to the low use ratio of protein fibers in the fabric, and the inherent defects of poor shape-preserving performance, moth damage and difficult nursing of the cashmere fabric are overcome.
When the cashmere fabric is developed, the invention mainly has the following key points: (1) the selection of high-quality cellulose fibers is favorable for keeping the comfort and the skin-friendly property of the cashmere-like fabric, and the selection of synthetic fibers is favorable for keeping the heat retention property of the cashmere-like fabric; (2) the cashmere fiber and the cellulose fiber have different acid-base properties, and the fiber needs to be dyed and then spun so as to avoid the damage of the fiber during dyeing; (3) by designing the double-layer structure, the thickness of the fabric is increased, and the fluffy and warm-keeping effects of the fabric are improved; (4) in order to increase the raising quantity, the inner layer fabric uses thicker weft yarns and longer floats; (5) the softness and the bulkiness of the fabric are improved by using smaller warp and weft density; (6) the imitated composite structure avoids using a hot melt agent so as to avoid influencing the fluffiness and softness of the fabric, and is environment-friendly and ecological; (7) and a small amount of cashmere fibers are used, so that the wool shape of the fabric is favorably improved.
Through the various process measures, the cashmere-like fabric keeps the excellent performances of fluffiness, comfort, softness and heat preservation of the cashmere fabric, solves the inherent defects of the cashmere fabric, can meet the requirements of general consumers, and is excellent in performance.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a schematic structural view of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below so that those skilled in the art can better understand the advantages and features of the present invention, and thus the scope of the present invention will be more clearly defined. The embodiments described herein are only a few embodiments of the present invention, rather than all embodiments, and all other embodiments that can be derived by one of ordinary skill in the art without inventive faculty based on the embodiments described herein are intended to fall within the scope of the present invention.
Examples
The development of the imitated composite cashmere fabric comprises two aspects, namely, the imitated cashmere fabric utilizes long-staple cotton with smaller length difference with cashmere fibers to replace the cashmere fibers, and the process optimization is adopted to increase the cashmere amount and improve the cashmere feeling; and secondly, the composite fabric is imitated, a lower-connection and upper-connection binding process is utilized to replace chemicals such as a hot melt agent and the like used in the processing of the composite fabric, and the binding process is environment-friendly and ecological, and is softer and more comfortable than the traditional composite fabric.
1. Product design
1.1 selection of raw materials of cashmere-like fabric
The substitute fiber used by the cashmere-like fabric mainly comprises acrylic fiber and cellulose fiber, and the difference of the raw materials causes the cashmere-like fabric to have side points in performance. The acrylic fiber has good softness and good heat preservation performance, and the heat preservation performance is closer to that of cashmere fiber; however, acrylic fibers have poor moisture absorption properties and are therefore inferior to cashmere fibers in comfort properties. The cellulose fiber has good moisture absorption performance and good comfort performance, but the heat retention performance is inferior to that of cashmere fiber. When the fabric is designed, the emphasis is on the comfort of the cashmere-like fabric, so that the thermal insulation performance of the fabric is improved by selecting the cellulose fiber and then adopting various other processes.
The length of the cashmere is about 36mm, and the length of the combed long-staple cotton is about 34mm, so that the combed long-staple cotton is selected, and the comfort performance and the elegant appearance quality of the cashmere fabric can be kept to the maximum extent.
A small amount of cashmere fibers are selected in the fabric, so that the fabric is stronger in wool shape feeling, and better in filling power, softness and heat-preservation performance.
According to the analysis, the surface layer warp yarns and the weft yarns of the fabric are all combed long-staple cotton yarns, the lining layer of the fabric is formed by the warp yarns of the long-staple cotton yarns, the weft yarns of the long-staple cotton/cashmere blended yarns, and the blending ratio is 90% of the long-staple cotton and 10% of the cashmere.
1.2 selecting colored spun yarns:
the inner layer weft yarn is cotton fiber/cashmere fiber blended yarn. The acid-base properties of the cotton fibers and the cashmere are different, the cashmere fibers are acid-resistant and alkali-resistant, the influence of dilute acid on the cashmere fibers is small, and the cashmere fibers are hard when encountering alkali; the alkali resistance of the cotton fiber is not acid resistance, and according to the characteristic of the difference of the acid-base performance of the two fibers, cashmere and the cotton fiber cannot be dyed simultaneously, because acid or alkali is needed during dyeing, and no matter how the selection is, damage can be caused to one of the fibers. The warp and weft yarns are all made of colored spun yarns, and the patterns of the colored spun yarn products are not as well defined as the patterns of dyed yarns, so that the colored spun yarns have hazy feeling and are more like cashmere fibers in appearance.
1.3 through multiple processes, the heat preservation performance of the cashmere-like fabric is improved.
1.3.1 one characteristic of cashmere lining is that the surface fabric is thicker, and the warmth retention property is good, and the imitative cashmere surface fabric of individual layer, more single thin, and the warmth retention property is far less than the cashmere surface fabric, therefore the imitative cashmere surface fabric of development uses bilayer structure, increases the thickness of surface fabric, and the array ratio of longitude and latitude, yarn of two-layer fabric is: exterior meridian/interior meridian ═ 1: 1; surface weft/lining weft is 1: 1.
1.3.2 still another characteristic of cashmere lining is that soft, when imitative cashmere lining design, also need to make a time in the aspect of softness. The plain weave fabric with a plurality of interweaving times is not suitable for making the fabric soft, and the hand feeling of the plain weave fabric is stiff. The surface fabric uses 2/2 right twill, and the lining weave uses 3/1 right twill. The common point of the surface fabric and the inner fabric is twill, and the softness of the fabric is good; the difference is that the weft float length of the lining fabric is longer, because the lining fabric needs napping finishing, the float length is long, and the napping is beneficial.
1.3.3 Cashmere fabric is mainly characterized by good heat preservation performance, so the thickness of the fabric is improved by selecting thicker yarns and softer tissues. Warp and weft yarns of the surface layer weave are both long stapled cotton combed yarns of 28tex, warp yarns of the inner layer weave are 14.6tex yarns and only play a role in supporting and interweaving, the weft yarns of the inner layer use 73tex long stapled cotton/cashmere blended yarns, and the weft yarns of the inner layer are long and floating, thick in yarn count and thick in napping.
The twist of the 1.3.4 yarn also has certain influence on the softness and the bulkiness of the fabric. The twist is small, and the hand feeling of the fabric is softer; the yarns have more air, are fluffy and better, and are beneficial to fluff discharge. The inner layer 73tex weft yarn of the fabric has the largest influence on the softness, the bulkiness and the fluff yield of the fabric. The fill 73tex yarn has a twist multiplier of 306.
1.3.5 warp and weft density design of double-layer fabric: the cashmere fabric has the other characteristic of being fluffy, so the warp and weft densities of the fabric are not suitable to be large, the warp and weft densities are large, the fabric is compact, and the fluffiness and the air permeability of the fabric are influenced, and when the fabric is designed, the warp tightness of the surface fabric is 42.3%, and the weft tightness is 34.7%; the warp tightness of the inner fabric is 30.5%, and the weft tightness of the inner fabric is 56%. The single-layer tightness of the fabric is smaller than that of twill fabrics and flannelette fabrics, so that the fabric is good in bulkiness, and the fabric contains a large amount of static air, so that a heat insulation layer for preventing heat loss is formed, and the heat preservation function of the fabric is improved.
1.3.6 napping finishing of the fabric: after the fabric is subjected to four times of napping finishing, the cashmere feeling is thick and solid, the thickness of the fabric after napping is increased, the contained static air is increased, the cashmere feeling is stronger, and the heat retention performance is greatly improved.
1.4 design of the pattern of the fabric:
the inner layer of the fabric needs to be subjected to napping finishing, and the color of the inner layer fabric is brown. The surface pattern of the fabric uses common grid patterns, and is suitable for people of all ages to take.
1.5 imitating and compounding of the fabric:
by adopting the structure of the composite fabric, the thickness of the fabric is increased, and the warm-keeping function of the fabric is improved. Common composite fabric, two-layer surface fabric are all through hot solvent, and the melting after the heating, the cooling back is pasted the surface fabric together, often use formaldehyde in the production process, and is not environmental protection, and the taste is great, contains a small amount of cashmere fibre in this surface fabric moreover, and the cashmere fibre is protein fiber, and high temperature resistant can not harden when meetting high temperature, in order to furthest remain characteristics such as cashmere fibre fluffy, moisture absorption, the surface fabric that contains the cashmere fibre should not use traditional hot melt agent to fuse. The fabric is characterized in that two layers of fabrics are connected together by using a lower-connection and upper-connection mode by using a connection process of a double-layer fabric for reference.
2. Specification of fabric and its processing technology
The width of a finished product of the fabric is 145cm, the warp density of the finished product is 433/10 cm, the weft density of the finished product is 354/10 cm, the warp and weft counts of a surface layer are 28tex, the warp of an inner layer is 14.6tex, the weft of the inner layer is 73tex, the surface layer tissue is 2/2 right-oblique, the inner layer tissue is 3/1 right-oblique, the reed number is 191 teeth/10 cm, each reed is 2 in, the width of a machine reed is 166cm, the width of a gray fabric is 160cm, the warp and weft density of the gray fabric is 398/10 cm, and the weft density of the gray fabric is 339/10 cm.
Color warp alignment: a represents nightblue, B represents brown, C represents beige, D represents brown, wherein A, B, C are all surface layer 28tex long staple cotton yarns, and D is inner layer 14,6tex long staple cotton warp yarns. The color channels are arranged as (1C, 1D) × 28, (1B, 1D) × 6, (1C, 1D) × 5, (1B, 1D) × 22, (1A, 1D) × 38, (1B, 1D) × 5, (1A, 1D) × 8, (1B, 1D) × 5, (1A, 1D) × 38, (1B, 1D) × 22, (1C, 1D) × 5, (1B, 1D) × 6, (1C, 1D) × 10. The number of warp cycles in one flower is 440 picks, 84 yarns A, 78 yarns B, 58 yarns C and 220 yarns D in one flower. The full width is 14 flowers, the number of ends is 52, the color of the ends is 26C yarns, 26D yarns, the total number of the warps of the full width is 6340, wherein 1176A yarns, 1092B yarns, 838C yarns, 3106D yarns and 128 side yarns are arranged.
Color weft arrangement: a represents night blue, b represents brown, c represents beige blue, d represents brown, abc represents surface weft yarn, yarn count is 28tex, d represents inner layer weft yarn, and yarn count is 73 tex. The color weft arrangement sequence is as follows: (1b, 1d) × 19, (1c, 1d) × 4, (1b, 1d) × 5, (1c, 1d) × 31, (1b, 1d) × 5, (1c, 1d) × 4, (1b, 1d) × 19, (1a, 1d) × 30, (1b, 1d) × 4, (1a, 1d) × 7, (1b, 1d) × 4, (1a, 1d) × 30. 67 yarns of a, 66 yarns of b, 47 yarns of c and 180 yarns of d in one flower.
The fabric card is shown in figure 1: in the figure: numbers 1-4, representing surface layer warp and weft yarns; and a-d represent the warp and weft yarns of the inner fabric. ■ denotes the warp knit points of the surface fabric,
representing the level of stitch points of the inner fabric,
showing that the surface layer warp yarns are lifted when weaving the inner weft,
the binding structure point represents that when the surface weft is weaved, the inner layer warp yarns are lifted to realize the binding of the surface fabric and the inner layer fabric.
3. The production key points are as follows:
3.1, spooling: rewinding with an NO21 winder at a rewinding speed of 1100m/min and 14.6tex cotton yarns at a rewinding speed of 1000m/min, 28tex cotton yarns and 73tex cotton/cashmere blended yarns.
3.2 warping: warping by using a Beningge warping machine at the speed of 670m/min, separately warping the warps of various colors, and warping 1176 warps A into 2 shafts; 1092 warps B, which are integrated into 2 shafts, 838 warps C and 128 warps C are warped together and integrated into 2 shafts; d warp yarn 3106, which is integrated into 5 shafts.
3.3 sizing: the warp is cellulose fiber, the surface layer warp and the inner layer warp are sized separately, so that the coverage coefficient of slashing is small, the weft density is small, the resistance during beating-up is small, and the weft is easy to tighten, so that the weaving requirement can be met by using modified starch, the formula of the sizing agent comprises 50% of JD-N sizing agent and 50% of TBS sizing agent, no auxiliary agent is used, the viscosity is 7-8S, the solid content is 11%, the sizing rate of 28tex cotton yarn is 10%, and the sizing rate of 14.6tex cotton yarn is 11.5%.
3.4 drafting sequence: drafting the selvedge: 2, 2, 1, 2 in per reed. Ground warp: the draw is 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 2 in per reed.
3.5 weaving:
the fabric is woven by using an air jet loom, and the rotating speed of the loom is 600 r/min.
And (3) biaxial weaving: since the yarn count of the surface layer warp and weft is the same, the warp of the back layer is 14.6tex, and the weft of the back layer is 73tex, the warp of the back layer is greatly bent, the warp knitting shrinkage is large, and biaxial knitting is required to prevent the surface layer warp from loosening.
The surface layer warp and the inner layer warp have different yarn counts and thicknesses, and a yarn dividing wire is needed for separating the surface layer warp and the inner layer warp in order to avoid that a vehicle stop worker takes wrong yarns after the yarn is broken.
Weft insertion process: the surface fabric has three kinds of weft yarns, and each weft yarn is fed by one weft accumulator. The weft yarn in the inner layer is thicker, the storage amount of the weft yarn on the yarn storage drum of the weft accumulator is less, and therefore, the weft stop can be reduced by using two weft accumulators for weft supply.
The cashmere-like composite fabric developed by the invention is fluffy, soft, comfortable and warm-keeping in process design, process optimization is carried out in multiple aspects, the excellent performance of the cashmere fabric is kept, meanwhile, the cost of the fabric is greatly reduced due to the low use ratio of protein fibers in the fabric, and the inherent defects of poor shape-preserving performance, moth damage and difficult nursing of the cashmere fabric are overcome.
When the cashmere fabric is developed, the invention mainly has the following key points: (1) the selection of high-quality cellulose fibers is favorable for keeping the comfort and the skin-friendly property of the cashmere-like fabric, and the selection of synthetic fibers is favorable for keeping the heat retention property of the cashmere-like fabric; (2) the cashmere fiber and the cellulose fiber have different acid-base properties, and the fiber needs to be dyed and then spun so as to avoid the damage of the fiber during dyeing; (3) by designing the double-layer structure, the thickness of the fabric is increased, and the fluffy and warm-keeping effects of the fabric are improved; (4) in order to increase the raising quantity, the inner layer fabric uses thicker weft yarns and longer floats; (5) the softness and the bulkiness of the fabric are improved by using smaller warp and weft density; (6) the imitated composite structure avoids using a hot melt agent so as to avoid influencing the fluffiness and softness of the fabric, and is environment-friendly and ecological; (7) and a small amount of cashmere fibers are used, so that the wool shape of the fabric is favorably improved.
Through the various process measures, the cashmere-like fabric keeps the excellent performances of fluffiness, comfort, softness and heat preservation of the cashmere fabric, solves the inherent defects of the cashmere fabric, can meet the requirements of general consumers, and is excellent in performance.
Claims (1)
1. A production process of an imitated composite cashmere fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: the fabric comprises the following design:
(1) selecting raw materials of the cashmere-like fabric:
the surface layer warp and weft of the fabric are all combed long-staple cotton yarns, the lining layer of the fabric is formed by selecting long-staple cotton yarns as the warp yarns, long-staple cotton/cashmere blended yarns as the weft yarns, and the blending ratio is 90% of the long-staple cotton and 10% of the cashmere;
(2) selecting colored spun yarns:
the cashmere fiber and the cellulose fiber have different acid-base properties, and the fiber needs to be dyed and then spun so as to avoid the damage of the fiber during dyeing; the warp yarns and the weft yarns are spun-dyed yarns, and the patterns of the spun-dyed yarn products are not well defined as the patterns of dyed yarns and have hazy feeling, so that the appearance of the spun-dyed yarns is more like cashmere fibers;
(3) through a plurality of processes, the heat preservation performance of the cashmere-like fabric is improved:
the cashmere-like fabric has a double-layer structure, the thickness of the fabric is increased, and the arrangement ratio of warp and weft of two layers of fabrics is as follows: exterior meridian/interior meridian ═ 1: 1; surface weft/lining weft is 1: 1;
the surface fabric uses 2/2 right twill, and the inner layer weave uses 3/1 right twill; the weft float length of the inner fabric is longer, the inner fabric needs to be subjected to napping finishing, and the float length is long, so that napping is facilitated;
warp and weft yarns of the surface layer tissue are both long stapled cotton combed yarns of 28tex, warp yarns of the inner layer tissue are 14.6tex yarns and only play a role of supporting and interweaving, the weft yarns of the inner layer are blended yarns of 73tex long stapled cotton/cashmere, and the weft yarns of the inner layer are long and floating, thick in yarn count and thick in napping;
the twist factor of the weft yarn of the inner 73tex of the fabric is 306;
and (3) designing the warp and weft density of the double-layer fabric: when the fabric is designed, the warp tightness of the surface fabric is 42.3%, and the weft tightness is 34.7%; the warp tightness of the inner fabric is 30.5%, and the weft tightness of the inner fabric is 56%;
napping and finishing the fabric: after the fabric is subjected to napping finishing for four times, the cashmere feeling is thick and solid, the thickness of the fabric after napping is increased, the contained static air is increased, the cashmere feeling is stronger, and the heat retention performance is greatly improved;
(4) designing the pattern of the fabric: the inner layer of the fabric needs napping finishing, and the color of the inner layer fabric is brown; the surface pattern of the fabric uses common lattice patterns and is suitable for people of all ages to take;
(5) imitating and compounding of the fabric:
the imitated composite structure avoids using a hot melt agent so as to avoid influencing the fluffiness and softness of the fabric; connecting the two layers of fabrics together by using a lower-connection and upper-connection mode;
the finished product width of the fabric is 145cm, the finished product warp density is 433/10 cm, the finished product weft density is 354/10 cm, the surface layer warp and weft yarn counts are 28tex, the inner layer warp yarn is 14.6tex, the inner layer weft yarn is 73tex, the surface layer tissue is 2/2 right slant, the inner layer tissue is 3/1 right slant, the reed number is 191 teeth/10 cm, each reed is 2 in, the loom reed width is 166cm, the gray fabric width is 160cm, the gray fabric warp and weft density is 398/10 cm, and the gray fabric weft density is 339/10 cm;
the color warp arrangement of the fabric is as follows: a represents night blue, B represents brown, C represents beige blue, D represents brown, wherein A, B, C are all surface layer 28tex long staple cotton yarns, and D is inner layer 14.6tex long staple cotton warp yarns; the color channels are arranged as (1C, 1D) × 28, (1B, 1D) × 6, (1C, 1D) × 5, (1B, 1D) × 22, (1A, 1D) × 38, (1B, 1D) × 5, (1A, 1D) × 8, (1B, 1D) × 5, (1A, 1D) × 38, (1B, 1D) × 22, (1C, 1D) × 5, (1B, 1D) × 6, (1C, 1D) × 10; the number of cycles of one flower of warp yarns is 440 picks, 84 yarns A, 78 yarns B, 58 yarns C and 220 yarns D in one flower; the full width is 14, the ends are added with 52, the colors of the ends are 26C yarns, 26D yarns, and the total number of the warps of the full width is 6340, wherein 1176A yarns, 1092B yarns, 838C yarns, 3106D yarns and 128 side yarns are arranged;
the color weft arrangement of the fabric is as follows: a represents night blue, b represents brown, c represents beige blue, d represents brown, abc is surface weft yarn, the yarn count is 28tex, d is inner weft yarn, and the yarn count is 73 tex; the color weft arrangement sequence is as follows: (1b, 1d) × 19, (1c, 1d) × 4, (1b, 1d) × 5, (1c, 1d) × 31, (1b, 1d) × 5, (1c, 1d) × 4, (1b, 1d) × 19, (1a, 1d) × 30, (1b, 1d) × 4, (1a, 1d) × 7, (1b, 1d) × 4, (1a, 1d) × 30; 67 yarns of a, 66 yarns of b, 47 yarns of c and 180 yarns of d in one flower;
the production process of the imitated composite cashmere fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) spooling: rewinding by using an NO21 winder, 28tex cotton yarn and 73tex cotton/cashmere blended yarn, wherein the rewinding speed is 1100m/min, 14.6tex cotton yarn and 1000 m/min;
(2) warping: warping by using a Beningge warping machine at the speed of 670m/min, separately warping the warps of various colors, and warping 1176 warps A into 2 shafts; 1092 warps B, which are integrated into 2 shafts, 838 warps C and 128 warps C are warped together and integrated into 2 shafts; d, 3106 warp yarns which are integrated into 5 shafts;
(3) sizing: the formula of the sizing agent is 50 percent of JD-N sizing agent and 50 percent of TBS sizing agent, does not need to use auxiliary agents, has the viscosity of 7-8S, the solid content of 11 percent, the sizing rate of 28tex cotton yarn of 10 percent and the sizing rate of 14.6tex cotton yarn of 11.5 percent;
(4) drafting sequence: drafting the selvedge: 2, 2, 1, 2 in per reed; ground warp: drafting 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 2 in per reed;
(5) weaving:
weaving by using an air jet loom at the rotating speed of 600 r/min;
and (3) biaxial weaving: the yarn count of the surface layer warp and weft is the same, the inner layer warp is 14.6tex, and the inner layer weft is 73tex, so that the buckling of the inner layer warp is large, the warp weaving shrinkage is large, and the surface layer warp is prevented from loosening by adopting a biaxial weaving method;
the yarn count of the surface layer warp and the inner layer warp are different in thickness, and in order to avoid that a vehicle stop worker takes wrong yarns after the ends are broken, the yarns need to be separated by a stranded wire;
weft insertion process: the surface fabric has three weft yarns, and each weft yarn uses one weft accumulator for weft supply; the weft yarn in the inner layer is thicker, the storage amount of the weft yarn on the yarn storage drum of the weft accumulator is less, and therefore, the weft stop can be reduced by using two weft accumulators for weft supply.
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| CN114959992A (en) * | 2022-05-07 | 2022-08-30 | 河北宁纺集团有限责任公司 | Production method of multi-fiber yarn-dyed corduroy |
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| CN201627038U (en) * | 2009-11-26 | 2010-11-10 | 江阴福斯特纺织有限公司 | Comfortable heating fabric |
| CN103696075A (en) * | 2013-12-19 | 2014-04-02 | 吴江明敏制衣有限公司松陵分公司 | Sweat-draining moisture-transferring double-layer fabric |
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