CN109137210A - A kind of design method and production technology of multifunctionality sheet fabric - Google Patents
A kind of design method and production technology of multifunctionality sheet fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN109137210A CN109137210A CN201811238517.9A CN201811238517A CN109137210A CN 109137210 A CN109137210 A CN 109137210A CN 201811238517 A CN201811238517 A CN 201811238517A CN 109137210 A CN109137210 A CN 109137210A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D11/00—Double or multi-ply fabrics not otherwise provided for
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/44—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with specific cross-section or surface shape
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C11/00—Teasing, napping or otherwise roughening or raising pile of textile fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
- D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M15/285—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated carboxylic acid amides or imides
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
- D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M15/327—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated alcohols or esters thereof
- D06M15/333—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated alcohols or esters thereof of vinyl acetate; Polyvinylalcohol
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M2101/32—Polyesters
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M2101/34—Polyamides
- D06M2101/36—Aromatic polyamides
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
- D06M2200/40—Reduced friction resistance, lubricant properties; Sizing compositions
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
- D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
- D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
- D10B2201/24—Viscose
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
Abstract
The invention discloses the design methods and production technology of a kind of multi-functional sheet fabric.Functional sheet of the invention is three-decker；The yarn being spun into using cool fiber weaves the inner layer of sheet；The yarn being spun into using super hollow warm-keeping fiber, weaves the surface layer of sheet；Make sheet two sides that nice and cool and warm completely different sense of touch be presented respectively；Using the weft yarn of middle layer as mat layer, keep sheet feel softer, enhances the comfort of sheet；Using stitch weave point, argyle design is formed on the two sides of sheet.
Description
Technical field
Present invention relates particularly to the design methods and production technology of a kind of multi-functional sheet fabric.
Background technique
Torridity summer, needs to spread nice and cool straw mat on bed, and cold winter, then needs to change comfortably warm bed
It is single.Since the scouring of straw mat is more troublesome, and it is easy mildew, with being widely used for summer air-conditioning, in scorching summer, very much
Family does not use straw mat.Summer uses common sheet, and since sweat is more, air humidity is big, and common sheet has a kind of viscous people's sense.
The multi-functional sheet that a four seasons can use is developed, nice and cool, warming, antibacterial and health care are fused together, it is existing to adapt to
For the demand of social development.
Summary of the invention
Goal of the invention: in order to solve the deficiencies in the prior art, the present invention provides a kind of setting for multi-functional sheet fabric
Meter method and production technology.
Technical solution: a kind of design method of multifunctionality sheet fabric, the design of the fabric are as follows:
(1) tissue of fabric: fabric is three-layer weave, and table, nexine fabric woven are all to float length, fabric using plain weave
Exquisiteness, wearability are good；Middle layer only has weft yarn, without warp thread；The arrangement of top layer warp thread and nexine warp thread is compared for 1:1, surface layer latitude
The arrangement of yarn, middle wefts, nexine weft yarn is compared for 1:1:1；
(2) inner layer raw material: tencel/mint fibers scribbled, tencel fiber account for 70%, and mint fibers account for 30%；Surface layer
Yarn count through, weft threads is 28tex；Wherein, mint fibers are by chemical treatment, to turn the menthol in natural plants
It is melted into menthones, is blended into the spinning solution of viscose rayon after recycling nanotechnology to crush menthones, manufactured function
Property fiber；
(3) surface layer yarn is super hollow polyamide fibre spun yarn, yarn count 28tex；The regain of polyamide fibre is 4.5%, terylene
Regain is 0.4%, and when contacting with skin, polyamide fibre is not allowed easy to produce static electricity, there is better comfort；Polyamide fibre super hollow fiber,
Warmth retention property is very good, and the flexibility of super hollow fiber is good, and weight is lighter, and compared with same fiber, super hollow fiber is knitted
Fabric processed, every Gram Mass can reduce 20%, and good permeability, it is the optimal selection of winter sheet that sense of touch is warm；
(4) middle layer does not have warp thread, is weft yarn entirely, and weft yarn is N6160/144F ATY FD long filament, and the fluffy degree of long filament is excellent
In spun yarn；
(5) side texture: fabric is multilayer fabric, and side texture uses double ends double weft structure；
(6) napping of fabric: fabric thickness of the surface layer after napping arranges increases, and flexibility is more preferable, while warming sense
It is more superior；Inner layer is to use summer, not can be carried out napping arrangement.
As optimization: the fabric is a kind of treble cloths, and inner layer is woven by cool fiber, fabric touch perception
Nice and cool, summer weather is hot, this shell fabric upward, there is a kind of especially nice and cool, comfortable feeling；Surface layer is by polyamide fibre super hollow fiber
Spun yarn weave, doughnut is particularly soft, and thermal property is good, and there is a kind of soft, warm sense in when touch
Feel, this layer upward, when being contacted with human body, the not no cold wet feeling of general fibre；Middle layer does not have warp thread, only weft yarn, and weft yarn is
N696/96F ATY FD long filament, plays the role of mat layer, so that the more fluffy softness of fabric, comfort are more preferable；Cool fiber
In contain a kind of special chemical substance: menthones has natural refrigerant, antibacterial, beautifying skin and preserving health, makes one the function of spirit and QI cleaning
Energy.
As optimization: the fabric specification is as follows: Fabric width 220cm, surface layer finished product through it is close be 312/10cm,
Surface layer finished product filling density be 216/10cm, inner layer through it is close with surface layer through close identical, middle layer does not have warp thread, and fabric is always through close
624/10cm；Inner layer filling density, middle layer filling density are identical as surface layer filling density, and total filling density of fabric is 648/10cm.
As optimization: the arrangement width shrinkage of the fabric is 8.8%, and long shrinkage is 4.2%, and warp yarns are condensed to 8.4%,
Broadwise crimp is 5.6%；
As optimization: the fabric breadth of the fabric be 241.2cm, fabric always through it is close be 569/10cm, fabric is total
Filling density is 621/10cm, upper machine reed width 255.5cm, 134 teeth of porter/10cm；
As optimization: the total quantity of warps of the fabric is 13704, and wherein 96, side yarn, gait for one and recycle radical
It is 28, full width 486 is spent, in full width warp thread, top layer warp thread 6804, nexine warp thread 6804,96, side yarn, with top layer warp thread
It is identical.
A kind of production technology of the multi-functional sheet fabric according to, includes the following steps: winder --- it is whole
Through --- sizing --- and axis --- drawing-in --- is weaved；Concrete operations are as follows:
(1) winder:
GA015MD type bobbin-winding machine is selected to carry out rewinding, filling yarn is the yarn of 28tex, and winder speed is 513m/
Min, the weight of influence of winding tension washer are 7.4g, and when winder guarantees certain rolling density, and influence of winding tension is too small, will affect yarn
Unwinding；
(2) warping:
Using CGGA114B type beam warper, warping technology of the warping technology using " low velocity protects elasticity ", speed control
System is that control sheet yarn tension is uniform, using collective's creeling, Discrete control tension in Warping, additional tension is divided into three in 480m/min
Section, the weight of leading portion additional tension washer are 8g, and the weight of middle section additional tension washer is 7g, the weight of back segment additional tension washer
Amount is 6g；Warping channel wants bright and clean when warping；
Total quantity of warps is 13704, wherein polyamide fibre yarn is 6804+96 side yarns, and totally 6900, tencel/peppermint is mixed
Spinning 6804；Two kinds of warp thread separate warping, separate starching, and warping matches axis are as follows: polyamide fibre yarn is made into 9 axis, and warping is with axis
+ 767 * 6 axis of 766 * 3 axis；Tencel/peppermint mixed yarn is made into 9 axis, is 756 * 9 axis with axis；
(3) sizing:
Using S432 type sizing machine starching, the warp thread radical of fabric is relatively more, and top layer warp thread and nexine warp thread are wanted when sizing
It separates starching and keeps the complete of serous coat to reduce the adhesion of yarn, improve the wear-resisting property of sizing；
Formula of size: 57% PVA slurry, 36% polyacrylamide, 4% water-soluble wax disk(-sc), 0.5% penetrant
With 2.5% antistatic agent；
Sizing speed is 45m/min；
Mud-jacking technology: the sizing technique of double four pressures of leaching is selected, in 16KN, the pressure of post jacking roller is for preceding mud jacking pressure control
12KN, preceding submergence roller side pressure control is in 8KN, and rear submergence roller side pressure control is in 5KN；
The rate of sizing: the rate of sizing is controlled 8%；
Regain: the regain of nexine warp thread is controlled in 9%-9.5%；The regain of top layer warp thread is controlled in 3%-
3.5%；
(4) and axis:
Top layer warp thread is different from the raw material of nexine warp thread, and axis latter two yarn is separated with leased line, so as to work of gaiting
Take yarn；
(5) drawing-in:
Side texture wear 1-2 pages it is comprehensive, for 1,1,2,2,48, every side, every reed 4 enters sequence of gaiting；
Ground tissue is gaited using space draft, and every reed 4 enters, every reed+two back warps of two table warps；Nexine warp thread is day
Silk/mint fibers mixed yarn, when weaving, are through proparea, and top layer warp thread is super hollow polyamide fibre spun yarn, and strength is high, is through back zone；
(6) it weaves:
The K88 type rapier loom of positive wefting insertion is selected to weave, speed control is in 320r/min；
When upper machine, surface layer, inner layer warp thread because of raw material difference, separated with leased line, can be to avoid after warp end break
Spinner's wrong loose thread, causes quality accident；
Opening time: using early opening process, opening time is 290 °；
Into the sword time: the shed open of multilayer fabric be not easy clearly, into the sword time will evening control partially, send sword to be determined as into the sword time
67 °, sword is connect into the control of sword time at 64 °；
Workshop moisture temperature: temperature is controlled at 23 DEG C -30 DEG C, and humid control is in 70%-75%.
The utility model has the advantages that functional sheet of the invention is three-decker；The yarn being spun into using cool fiber, weaves sheet
Inner layer；The yarn being spun into using super hollow warm-keeping fiber, weaves the surface layer of sheet；Make sheet two sides that nice and cool and temperature be presented respectively
Warm up completely different sense of touch；Using the weft yarn of middle layer as mat layer, keep sheet feel softer, enhances relaxing for sheet
Adaptive；Using stitch weave point, argyle design is formed on the two sides of sheet.
Nice and cool property, warmth retention property, antibiotic property, the health of fabric are fused together, no longer by multi-functional sheet of the invention
It needs the variation according to season and more changes the sheet, simplify the overelaborated of modern life at home, the development for having adapted to modern society needs
It asks, receives the favor of young consumer.But the product be Multi-level Organization Structure, and the strength of mint fibers, wearability compared with
Difference is easy elongation, therefore production difficulty is larger, it is noted that the following when production: (1) mint fibers need and other fibers are mixed
It spins, to improve the weavability of the fiber；(2) wearability of mint fibers is poor, and when weaving needs to reduce mint fibers blended
The shedding number of yarn.When multilayer fabric weaves, the warp thread as layer fabric is needed；(3) conformality of mint fibers is poor, tencel
Fiber rigidity is big, and conformality is good, there is the gloss as silk, by the blended of two kinds of fibers, realizes the mutual supplement with each other's advantages in performance,
Keep sheet gloss graceful, improves the class of fabric.(4) yarn of middle layer, plays the role of band yarn, increases the thickness of fabric
Degree, flexibility and comfort.The weft yarn long filament of middle layer, fluffy degree is more preferable, the yarn spun yarn of table inner layer, comfort
It is good.
Detailed description of the invention
Fig. 1 is the organization chart and drafting plan of fabric of the invention.
Specific embodiment
The technical scheme in the embodiments of the invention will be clearly and completely described below, so that the technology of this field
Personnel can better understand advantages and features of the invention, to make apparent boundary to protection scope of the present invention
It is fixed.Embodiment described in the invention is only a part of the embodiment of the present invention, instead of all the embodiments, based on the present invention
In embodiment, those of ordinary skill in the art's every other implementation obtained without making creative work
Example, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Embodiment
1. the characteristics of fabric:
Fabric is a kind of treble cloths, and inner layer is woven by cool fiber, and fabric touch perception is nice and cool, and summer weather is scorching
Heat, this shell fabric upward, there is a kind of especially nice and cool, comfortable feeling；Surface layer woven by the spun yarn of polyamide fibre super hollow fiber and
At, doughnut is particularly soft, and thermal property is good, and there is a kind of soft, warm feeling in when touch, this layer upward, with
When human body contacts, the not no cold wet feeling of general fibre；Middle layer does not have warp thread, only weft yarn, and weft yarn is N696/96F ATY FD
Long filament plays the role of mat layer, so that the more fluffy softness of fabric, comfort are more preferable.Containing a kind of special in cool fiber
Chemical substance: menthones has natural refrigerant, antibacterial, beautifying skin and preserving health, makes one the function of spirit and QI cleaning.The sheet will be cool
May just as well, warmth retention property, antibiotic property, health combine together, the favor by consumer.
2. the design and specification of product
2.1 product designs:
(1) tissue of fabric: fabric is three-layer weave, and table, nexine fabric woven are all to float length, fabric using plain weave
Exquisiteness, wearability are good；Middle layer only has weft yarn, without warp thread；The arrangement of top layer warp thread and nexine warp thread is compared for 1:1, surface layer latitude
The arrangement of yarn, middle wefts, nexine weft yarn is compared for 1:1:1.
(2) inner layer raw material is tencel/mint fibers scribbled, and tencel fiber accounts for 70%, and mint fibers account for 30%.Surface layer
Yarn count through, weft threads is 28tex.
Mint fibers are by chemical treatment, to be converted to menthones, recycle nanometer skill the menthol in natural plants
Art is blended into the spinning solution of viscose rayon after crushing menthones, manufactured functional fiber.Menthones has natural
Refrigerant, antibacterial, healthcare function, can persistence in the fibre, thus have the function of lasting cool health care.
Mint fibers be easy elongation, strongly be lower than viscose glue, wearability, conformality are poor, need with other fiber blends, mention
The weavability of high yarn and the dimensional stability of fabric.Tencel fiber is rigidly big, with the gloss as silk, dimensional stability
Good, both fiber mixed yarns knit manufactured fabric, and appearance is graceful, good stability of the dimension, and sense of touch is nice and cool, realize in performance
Mutual supplement with each other's advantages.
The blending ratio of two kinds of fibers.According to " the anti-microbial property test of corn mint cellulose viscose mixed yarn of Du Mei, Zhao Lei et al.
With research " one text research think: when the content of mint fibers reaches 30%, the effect of antibiotic health care has reached national confrontation
The requirement of bacterium healthcare face fabric function.Bacterium easy to breed when summer, the antimicrobial health care function of fabric, it is only necessary to when considering summer
Health care requirement.Therefore the blending ratio of mint fibers is controlled 30%, and tencel fiber accounts for 70%.
(3) surface layer yarn is super hollow polyamide fibre spun yarn, yarn count 28tex.Polyamide fibre is compared with terylene, the resurgence of polyamide fibre
Rate has reached 4.5%, and the regain of terylene only has 0.4%, when being contacted with skin, polyamide fibre do not allow it is easy to produce static electricity, have preferably
Comfort.Polyamide fibre super hollow fiber, warmth retention property is very good, and the flexibility of super hollow fiber is good, and weight is lighter, with same fibre
Dimension compares, and super hollow fiber weaves fabric, and every Gram Mass can reduce 20%, and good permeability, it is winter that sense of touch is warm
The optimal selection of sheet.
(4) middle layer does not have warp thread, is weft yarn entirely, and weft yarn is N6160/144F ATY FD long filament, and the fluffy degree of long filament is wanted
Better than spun yarn.Middle layer plays the role of three, first is that being stiched together upper and lower level；Second is that make sheet it is more fluffy,
It is soft, the permeability of fabric is improved, the comfort of fabric is increased；Third is that connecing the surface formation diamond shape that group is woven in fabric
Pattern, this argyle design, has on the one hand consolidated mat layer, avoids movement and the heap knot of mat layer, improves the matter of fabric
Amount, on the other hand increases the aesthetic feeling of fabric.
(5) side texture: fabric is multilayer fabric, and the interleaving degress diversity ratio of side yarn and body warp is larger, cat easy to form
It in one's ear, is the interleaving degress for reducing side warp, side texture uses double ends double weft structure.
(6) napping of fabric: fabric thickness of the surface layer of sheet after napping arranges increases, and flexibility is more preferable, simultaneously
Warming sense is more superior.The inner layer of sheet is to use summer, not can be carried out napping arrangement.
2.2 fabric specifications:
Fabric width is 220cm, surface layer finished product through it is close be 312/10cm, surface layer finished product filling density is 216/10cm, inner
Layer through it is close with surface layer through close identical, middle layer does not have a warp thread, fabric always through it is close be 624/10cm.Inner layer filling density, middle layer
Filling density is identical as surface layer filling density, and total filling density of fabric is 648/10cm.The arrangement width shrinkage of fabric is 8.8%, and long shrinkage is
4.2%, warp yarns are condensed to 8.4%, and broadwise crimp is 5.6%.Fabric breadth is 241.2cm, fabric always through it is close be 569/
10cm, the total filling density of fabric are 621/10cm, upper machine reed width 255.5cm, 134 teeth of porter/10cm.The total quantity of warps of fabric is
13704, wherein 96, side yarn, one is gaited that recycle radical be 28, the flower of full width 486, in full width warp thread, top layer warp thread 6804
Root is nexine warp thread 6804,96, side yarn, identical as top layer warp thread.
The looming draft of fabric is as shown in Figure 1.■ indicate textura epidermoidea, inner layer tissue through interlacing point, zero indicates to weave down
When layer fabric, the warp thread of umbrella organisations lifts, ● when indicating middle layer wefting insertion, the warp thread of umbrella organisations lifts, and △ indicates intermediate
Layer shute binder lower-hierarchy, that is, when middle wefts introducing, the warp thread of lower-hierarchy lifts herein, and binding place is in fabric
Inner layer formed argyle design, ▲ indicate middle wefts binding umbrella organisations, that is, introduce middle wefts when, herein on
The warp thread of layer tissue does not lift, and binding place is the same with inner layer, forms argyle design.
To pay special attention to this following technique when drawing looming draft: there are two types of warp thread, and nexine warp thread is tencel/mint fibers
Scribbled, the strengths of mint fibers than it is general can viscose rayon strength it is also low, wear-resisting property is also poor, subtracts when weaving
The broken end of few nexine warp thread, uses as lower layer warp yarns.As lower layer warp yarns, shedding number only has three points of top line
One of, it is advantageous to the broken end for reducing yarn.Top layer warp thread is polyamide fibre spun yarn, and strength is high, and wearability, elasticity is good, is used as upper layer
Warp thread.Nylon fibre is despite synthetic fibers, but since regain is higher, and is hollow super flexible fibre, when adding sizing
Antistatic measure, be used as top line when, although shedding number is relatively more, the electrostatic in production process is easily controlled.
3. production essentials
3.1 winder
GA015MD type bobbin-winding machine is selected to carry out rewinding.Filling yarn is the yarn of 28tex, the strength of inner layer yarn compared with
Low, wearability is poor, and surface layer is polyamide fibre spun yarn, and elasticity is good for yarn yarn, is easy elongation, therefore winding process selects " low speed
Degree, small tension receiving coil, guarantor's elongation " technique, winder speed are determined as 513m/min, and the weight of influence of winding tension washer is 7.4g.When winder
Guarantee certain rolling density, influence of winding tension is too small, will affect the unwinding of yarn.
3.2 warping
Use CGGA114B type beam warper.According to nexine warp thread strength it is low, wear no resistance the characteristics of, warping technology is adopted
With the warping technology of " low velocity protects elasticity ", speed control is in 480m/min.It is uniform for control sheet yarn tension, it is changed using collective
Cylinder, Discrete control tension in Warping, additional tension are divided into three sections, and the weight of leading portion additional tension washer is 8g, middle section additional tension
The weight of washer is 7g, and the weight of back segment additional tension washer is 6g.Nexine warp thread wears no resistance, and top layer warp thread can generate quiet
Electricity, therefore when warping it is noted that warping channel is bright and clean.
Total quantity of warps is 13704, and wherein polyamide fibre yarn is 6804+96 side yarns, and totally 6900, tencel/peppermint is mixed
Spinning 6804.Two kinds of warp thread separate warping, separate starching, and warping matches axis are as follows: polyamide fibre yarn is made into 9 axis, and warping is with axis
+ 767 * 6 axis of 766 * 3 axis；Tencel/peppermint mixed yarn is made into 9 axis, is 756 * 9 axis with axis.
3.3 sizing
Use S432 type sizing machine starching.The warp thread radical of fabric is relatively more, and top layer warp thread and nexine warp thread are wanted when sizing
It separates starching and keeps the complete of serous coat to reduce the adhesion of yarn, improve the wear-resisting property of sizing.
Formula of size: according to the similar principle to mix, warp thread yarn contains a large amount of synthetic fibers, thus formula of size with
Based on PVA slurry, PVA slurry accounts for 57%.But the leasing performance of PVA slurry is poor, joined 36% in formula of size
Polyacrylamide, the leasing performance of polyacrylamide slurry is good, but serous coat wears no resistance, both slurries, which mix, to be used,
Mutual supplement with each other's advantages can be realized in performance.In addition to reduce yarn coefficient of friction, joined in formula of size 4% it is water-soluble
Property wax disk(-sc) joined 0.5% penetrant to increase the impregnability of slurries in formula, generate electrostatic in order to prevent, slurry
It joined 2.5% antistatic agent in formula.
Sizing speed is 45m/min.The radical of warp thread is relatively more, and the adhesion between sizing is than more serious, in order to reduce leasing
When broken end, keep the complete of serous coat, guarantee the wear-resisting property of serous coat, using lower sizing speed to reduce leasing resistance,
Reduce the lappers of warp thread.
Mud-jacking technology: the sizing technique of double four pressures of leaching is selected.Through close height, the interleaving degress between yarn is relatively more, when starching
It should pay attention to being coated, also to take into account and be impregnated with, therefore select the sizing technique of double four pressures of leaching.Preceding squeezing roller will use weight, pressure
Control is in 16KN, so that slurries are squeezed into yarn interior, formation is well impregnated with.Post jacking roller uses lesser pressure, so as to
Slurry stays in the surface of yarn, and formation is good coating, and the pressure of post jacking roller is 12KN.The pressure of post jacking roller also should not mistake
Small, the pressure of post jacking roller is too small, will lead to that the rate of sizing is excessively high, and yarn hardens, and causes the brittle failure head of yarn.Submergence roller and starching
Side pressure between roller can be further improved being impregnated with for slurries, and the voltage-controlled system in front side is in 8KN, and the voltage-controlled system of rear side is in 5kn.
The rate of sizing: the rate of sizing is controlled 8%.Slurries are chemical sizwe, but through close very high, the rate of sizing wants control bigger than normal.
Regain: nexine warp thread is cellulose fibre, and the regain of tencel and mint fibers is all bigger, the resurgence of warp thread
Rate is controlled in 9%-9.5%.Top layer warp thread is polyamide fibre, and regain controls between 3%-3.5%.
3.4 and axis
Top layer warp thread is different from the raw material of nexine warp thread, and axis latter two yarn is separated with leased line, so as to work of gaiting
Take yarn.
3.5 drawing-in
Side texture wear 1-2 pages it is comprehensive, for 1,1,2,2,48, every side, every reed 4 enters sequence of gaiting.
Ground tissue is gaited using space draft, and every reed 4 enters, every reed+two back warps of two table warps.Nexine warp thread is day
Silk/mint fibers mixed yarn, strength is low, wears no resistance, and when weaving is through proparea, to reduce the open height of heald frame, reduces disconnected
Head rate.Top layer warp thread is super hollow polyamide fibre spun yarn, and strength is high, is through back zone.Situation of specifically gaiting is as shown in fig. 1.
3.6 weaving
The thread count of this fabric is very big, and upper machine reed width is wide, and shed open is not easy clearly, and difficulty of weaving is very big, selects product
The K88 type rapier loom of pole wefting insertion weaves, and speed control is in 320r/min.
When upper machine, surface layer, inner layer warp thread because of raw material difference, separated with leased line, can be to avoid after warp end break
Spinner's wrong loose thread, causes quality accident.
Opening time: 290 ° of opening time, early opening process is used.Fabric through close very high, shed open is not easy clearly,
Using early opening process, it is clear to be conducive to shed open, while fabric tissue is plain weave, early opening is also conducive to urgent weft yarn.
Into the sword time: the shed open of multilayer fabric be not easy clearly, into the sword time will evening control partially, send sword to be determined as into the sword time
67 °, sword is connect into the control of sword time at 64 °.Select it is later into the sword time, the effective height of shed open is bigger, in two sides selvedge
Do not allow to be also easy to produce three jump points in place.It is also not easy evening again into the sword time, because into evening sword time, in the case where loom same revolving speed,
The movement velocity of sword belt will increase, and the loss of machine material is caused to increase, and machine is also easier to generate failure.
Back beam height: multilayer tissue always through close relatively high, shed open is difficult to clearly, using beam process after low, increase
The tension of layer shed open warp thread, reduces the sinking of top line, and it is clear to be conducive to shed open.Back beam height can not be low again, rear deck-molding
Spend low, tightening weft resistance increases, and weft yarn is difficult to urgent, will increase the friction of yarn.Depth of beam is -1 scale after in production process.
Workshop moisture temperature wants control bigger than normal.The regain of tencel fiber and mint fibers is all bigger, and polyamide fibre is that synthesis is fine
Dimension, when production, may generate electrostatic, and regain also wants control bigger than normal.Temperature is controlled at 23 DEG C -30 DEG C, and humid control exists
70%-75%.
Nice and cool property, warmth retention property, antibiotic property, the health of fabric are fused together, no longer by multi-functional sheet of the invention
It needs the variation according to season and more changes the sheet, simplify the overelaborated of modern life at home, the development for having adapted to modern society needs
It asks, receives the favor of young consumer.But the product be Multi-level Organization Structure, and the strength of mint fibers, wearability compared with
Difference is easy elongation, therefore production difficulty is larger, it is noted that the following when production: (1) mint fibers need and other fibers are mixed
It spins, to improve the weavability of the fiber；(2) wearability of mint fibers is poor, and when weaving needs to reduce mint fibers blended
The shedding number of yarn.When multilayer fabric weaves, the warp thread as layer fabric is needed；(3) conformality of mint fibers is poor, tencel
Fiber rigidity is big, and conformality is good, there is the gloss as silk, by the blended of two kinds of fibers, realizes the mutual supplement with each other's advantages in performance,
Keep sheet gloss graceful, improves the class of fabric.(4) yarn of middle layer, plays the role of band yarn, increases the thickness of fabric
Degree, flexibility and comfort.The weft yarn long filament of middle layer, fluffy degree is more preferable, the yarn spun yarn of table inner layer, comfort
It is good.
Claims (7)
1. a kind of design method of multifunctionality sheet fabric, it is characterised in that: the design of the fabric is as follows:
(1) tissue of fabric: fabric is three-layer weave, and table, nexine fabric woven are all to float length using plain weave, and fabric is fine and smooth,
Wearability is good；Middle layer only has weft yarn, without warp thread；The arrangement of top layer warp thread and nexine warp thread is compared for 1:1, top layer weft yarn, in
The arrangement of interbed weft yarn, nexine weft yarn is compared for 1:1:1；
(2) inner layer raw material: tencel/mint fibers scribbled, tencel fiber account for 70%, and mint fibers account for 30%；Surface layer warp, latitude
The yarn count of yarn is 28tex；Wherein, mint fibers are by chemical treatment, to be converted to the menthol in natural plants thin
Lotus ketone is blended into the spinning solution of viscose rayon, manufactured functional fiber after recycling nanotechnology to crush menthones；
(3) surface layer yarn is super hollow polyamide fibre spun yarn, yarn count 28tex；The regain of polyamide fibre is 4.5%, the resurgence of terylene
Rate is 0.4%, and when contacting with skin, polyamide fibre is not allowed easy to produce static electricity, there is better comfort；Polyamide fibre super hollow fiber keeps warm
Property is very good, and the flexibility of super hollow fiber is good, and weight is lighter, and compared with same fiber, super hollow fiber weaves face
Material, every Gram Mass can reduce 20%, and good permeability, it is the optimal selection of winter sheet that sense of touch is warm；
(4) middle layer does not have warp thread, is weft yarn entirely, and weft yarn is N6160/144F ATY FD long filament, and the fluffy degree of long filament is better than short
Fine yarn；
(5) side texture: fabric is multilayer fabric, and side texture uses double ends double weft structure；
(6) napping of fabric: fabric thickness of the surface layer after napping arranges increases, and flexibility is more preferable, while warming sense is more
It is superior；Inner layer is to use summer, not can be carried out napping arrangement.
2. the design method of multifunctionality sheet fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: the fabric is one
Kind of treble cloths, inner layer are woven by cool fiber, and fabric touch perception is nice and cool, and summer weather is hot, this shell fabric upward,
There is a kind of especially nice and cool, comfortable feeling；Surface layer is woven by the spun yarn of polyamide fibre super hollow fiber, and doughnut is special
, there are a kind of soft, warm feeling in softness, and thermal property is good, when touch, this layer is not upward, general when contacting with human body
The cold wet feeling of perforating fiber；Middle layer does not have warp thread, only weft yarn, and weft yarn is N696/96F ATY FD long filament, plays mat layer
Effect, so that the more fluffy softness of fabric, comfort are more preferable；Contain a kind of special chemical substance: menthones in cool fiber,
With natural refrigerant, antibacterial, beautifying skin and preserving health, the function of spirit and QI cleaning is made one.
3. the design method of multifunctionality sheet fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: the fabric specification
It is as follows: Fabric width 220cm, surface layer finished product through it is close be 312/10cm, surface layer finished product filling density is 216/10cm, inner layer warp
It is close with surface layer through close identical, middle layer does not have a warp thread, fabric always through it is close be 624/10cm；Inner layer filling density, middle layer filling density
Identical as surface layer filling density, total filling density of fabric is 648/10cm.
4. the design method of multifunctionality sheet fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: the fabric it is whole
Managing width shrinkage is 8.8%, and long shrinkage is 4.2%, and warp yarns are condensed to 8.4%, and broadwise crimp is 5.6%.
5. the design method of multifunctionality sheet fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: the base of the fabric
Cloth breadth is 241.2cm, fabric always through it is close be 569/10cm, the total filling density of fabric is 621/10cm, upper machine reed width
255.5cm, 134 teeth of porter/10cm.
6. the design method of multifunctionality sheet fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: the fabric it is total
It is 13704 through radical, wherein 96, side yarn, one is gaited that recycle radical be 28, the flower of full width 486, in full width warp thread, surface layer
It is 6804, warp thread, nexine warp thread 6804,96, side yarn, identical as top layer warp thread.
7. a kind of production technology of multi-functional sheet fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that: including walking as follows
It is rapid: winder --- warping --- sizing --- and axis --- drawing-in --- is weaved；Concrete operations are as follows:
(1) winder:
GA015MD type bobbin-winding machine is selected to carry out rewinding, filling yarn is the yarn of 28tex, and winder speed is 513m/min, network
The weight of cylinder tension washer is 7.4g, and when winder guarantees certain rolling density, and influence of winding tension is too small, will affect moving back for yarn
Around；
(2) warping:
Using CGGA114B type beam warper, warping technology uses the warping technology of " low velocity protects elasticity ", and speed control exists
480m/min is that control sheet yarn tension is uniform, and using collective's creeling, Discrete control tension in Warping, additional tension is divided into three sections, preceding
The weight of section additional tension washer is 8g, and the weight of middle section additional tension washer is 7g, and the weight of back segment additional tension washer is
6g；Want warping channel bright and clean when warping；
Total quantity of warps be 13704, wherein polyamide fibre yarn be 6804+96 side yarns, totally 6900, tencel/peppermint mixed yarn
6804；Two kinds of warp thread separate warping, separate starching, and warping matches axis are as follows: polyamide fibre yarn is made into 9 axis, and warping is 766 with axis
Root *+767 * 6 axis of 3 axis；Tencel/peppermint mixed yarn is made into 9 axis, is 756 * 9 axis with axis；
(3) sizing:
Using S432 type sizing machine starching, the warp thread radical of fabric is relatively more, and top layer warp thread and nexine warp thread will separate when sizing
Starching keeps the complete of serous coat to reduce the adhesion of yarn, improves the wear-resisting property of sizing；
Formula of size: 57% PVA slurry, 36% polyacrylamide, 4% water-soluble wax disk(-sc), 0.5% penetrant and
2.5% antistatic agent；
Sizing speed is 45m/min；
Mud-jacking technology: the sizing technique of double four pressures of leaching is selected, in 16KN, the pressure of post jacking roller is for preceding mud jacking pressure control
12KN, preceding submergence roller side pressure control is in 8KN, and rear submergence roller side pressure control is in 5KN；
The rate of sizing: the rate of sizing is controlled 8%；
Regain: the regain of nexine warp thread is controlled in 9%-9.5%；The regain of top layer warp thread is controlled in 3%-3.5%；
(4) and axis:
Top layer warp thread is different from the raw material of nexine warp thread, and axis latter two yarn is separated with leased line, and to gait, work takes yarn；
(5) drawing-in:
Side texture wear 1-2 pages it is comprehensive, for 1,1,2,2,48, every side, every reed 4 enters sequence of gaiting；
Ground tissue is gaited using space draft, and every reed 4 enters, every reed+two back warps of two table warps；Nexine warp thread is tencel/thin
Lotus fiber blend yarn, when weaving, are through proparea, and top layer warp thread is super hollow polyamide fibre spun yarn, and strength is high, is through back zone；
(6) it weaves:
The K88 type rapier loom of positive wefting insertion is selected to weave, speed control is in 320r/min；
When upper machine, surface layer, inner layer warp thread because of raw material difference, separated with leased line, can be to avoid keeping off a car after warp end break
Work wrong loose thread, causes quality accident；
Opening time: using early opening process, opening time is 290 °；
Into the sword time: the shed open of multilayer fabric be not easy clearly, into the sword time will evening control partially, send sword to be determined as 67 ° into the sword time,
Sword is connect into the control of sword time at 64 °；
Workshop moisture temperature: temperature is controlled at 23 DEG C -30 DEG C, and humid control is in 70%-75%.
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| CN109898211A (en) * | 2019-03-01 | 2019-06-18 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | A kind of design method and weaving process of three layers of thermal fabric |
| CN110079913A (en) * | 2019-04-29 | 2019-08-02 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | A kind of design method and production technology of winter wind-proof warming sportswear fabric |
| CN110565234A (en) * | 2019-09-02 | 2019-12-13 | 福建七匹狼实业股份有限公司 | multifunctional yarn fabric containing mint fibers and preparation method thereof |
| CN110904559A (en) * | 2019-10-30 | 2020-03-24 | 佛山市顺德区联进纺织有限公司 | Multilayer woven fabric and weaving method thereof |
| CN114589997A (en) * | 2021-12-31 | 2022-06-07 | 连云港市工业投资集团有限公司 | Deformed fabric and weaving method thereof |
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| CN114589997A (en) * | 2021-12-31 | 2022-06-07 | 连云港市工业投资集团有限公司 | Deformed fabric and weaving method thereof |
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