CN108570746A - A kind of design method and production technology of winter outdoor sports coat woven fabric - Google Patents
A kind of design method and production technology of winter outdoor sports coat woven fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN108570746A CN108570746A CN201810400951.6A CN201810400951A CN108570746A CN 108570746 A CN108570746 A CN 108570746A CN 201810400951 A CN201810400951 A CN 201810400951A CN 108570746 A CN108570746 A CN 108570746A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
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- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/44—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with specific cross-section or surface shape
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D21/00—Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
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- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
- D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M15/263—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated carboxylic acids; Salts or esters thereof
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- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
- D06M15/21—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M15/327—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated alcohols or esters thereof
- D06M15/333—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds of unsaturated alcohols or esters thereof of vinyl acetate; Polyvinylalcohol
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- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M2101/32—Polyesters
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- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
- D06M2200/40—Reduced friction resistance, lubricant properties; Sizing compositions
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- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/02—Moisture-responsive characteristics
- D10B2401/021—Moisture-responsive characteristics hydrophobic
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Abstract
The invention discloses a kind of design methods and production technology of winter outdoor sports coat woven fabric.Outdoor sports thermal protection coat fabric in the present invention, when outdoor activities, it is no longer necessary to the thick and heavy warm-up such as dress is loose, too fat to move cotton dress or eider down outerwear, so that warming coat is frivolous, windproof cold-proof, the limb motion of very convenient people is favored by numerous outdoor enthusiasts.The specific advantage of the present invention is as follows：(1) the suitable functional thermal fiber of selection, keeps warming coat frivolous and has excellent wind-proof warming function；(2) hydrophobic fibre wind-proof warming effect is better than cellulose fibre, and winter outdoor sport fabric will be using hydrophobic fibre as raw material, and (3) need not use 100% functional fiber to reduce the cost of fabric；(4) it uses cotton yarn as filling yarn, weaves into cotton fabric, more thick and solid, good warmth retention effect, filament yarn fabric, too merrily and lightheartedly, discomfort are fit to do thermal fabric.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to fabric weaving fields, and in particular to a kind of design method of winter outdoor sports coat woven fabric with
Production technology.
Background technology
With the rise of nationwide fitness programs and sports and leisure, the people for participating in outdoor sports is more and more, to outdoor sport fabric
Demand constantly rise.Outdoor sport fabric has the differentiation of winter fabric and summer fabric, and summer, outdoor sport fabric was with frivolous
Based on, it commonly uses moisture absorption sweat discharging functions fiber and cellulosic fibre blend and interweaves, fabric keeps that human body is dry and comfortable to be with rapid perspiration
Main design goal.Winter since weather is colder, wears thick and heavy thermal cloth, movable and inconvenient, therefore winter open air fortune
Using wind-proof warming as main design goal when dynamic fabric design.Winter outdoor sport fabric is developed, one kind is through outside woollen sweater
Lightweight thermal coat fabric, this fabric has an excellent heat-preserving function, and it is windproof, preferably wash quick-drying, wear-resisting property is superior,
Suitable for as winter outdoor sport fabric.
Invention content
Goal of the invention：In order to solve the deficiencies in the prior art, the present invention provides a kind of woven faces of winter outdoor sports coat
The design method and production technology of material.
Technical solution：A kind of design method of winter outdoor sports coat woven fabric, product design are as follows：
(1) raw material preparation：Warp thread selects 18.5tex terylene short fiber yarns, weft yarn to select the sunlite of 19.5tex super hollow
Thermal fiber spun yarn；
(2) fabric tissue：Basic organization of the plain weave as fabric is selected, but in order to increase the fashion of fabric, is added
Jacquard weave element, by 3/1 and 1/1 complex tissue, 3/3 rib weave constitutes vertical bar lines, increases the stylishness and solid of fabric
Sense；
(3) fabric specification：
Fabric specification：Fabric breadth 149cm, fabric is through close 350/10cm, 256/10cm of fabric filling density, and ground tissue is every
Reed penetration number 2 enters, and Selvage Stitch enters per reed penetration number 2,165 teeth of porter/10cm, upper machine reed width 156.6cm；
Warp thread is the terylene short fiber yarn of 18.5tex, and color is deep zhang of color, passes through and spends with being divided into through A indicates body warp, B
Indicate that Hua Jingyi, C indicate flower through two；The arranged sequence of color is 6A, 12B, 6A, 6C, 13A, 1C, 2A, 1C, 13A, 6C；One flower warp
Yarn radical is 66, wherein 40, A yarns, 12, B yarns, 14, C yarns, and full width 77 is spent, and remainings 24, and remaining yarn color is 12, A yarns, B
12, yarn；3092, A yarns in full width fabric, 936, B yarns, 1078, C yarns.Total quantity of warps 5178, wherein 72, side yarn；
Weft yarn is the warming yarns of 19.5tex sunlite, and color is that sparrow is blue.
The production technology of the design method production of the winter outdoor sports coat woven fabric, includes the following steps：Network
Cylinder --- --- weave warping by sizing --- gaiting ---；Concrete operations are as follows：
(1) winder
Using NC.21 rewinder rewindings, warp thread is 18.5tex terylene short fiber yarns, and the sunlite that weft yarn is 19.5tex is protected
Warm yarn, winder speed are 1000m/min, which uses metal drum, and when rewinding does not allow easy to produce static electricity, NC.21
Bobbin-winding machine influence of winding tension is divided into 11 grades, and winder additional tension is set as 6 grades when this fabric produces；
(2) warping
Ky601 type warping machine warpings are selected, the control of warping speed needs the setting for carrying out additional tension in 400m/min,
Bobbin cradle is divided into three sections, and leading portion tension is 6 grades, and stage casing tension is 5 grades, and back segment additional tension is 4 grades；
Warping matches axis：Wire gauze A yarns amount to 3092, and 72, side yarn adds up to 3164, are made into 5 warp beams, and warping matches axis
For 633*4+632*1；Flower 936, is made into 2 axis, warping is 468*2 with axis through a B yarns；Flower 1078, is made into 2 through two C yarns
Axis, warping are 539*2 with axis；
(3) sizing
Using S432 type ancestral gram sizing machines, slurry formula is：PVA205 slurries 30%, js-3 slurries 35%, acrylic compounds
Slurry 30%, the efficient smooth agents 2% of SLMO-96,963 antistatic agents 3%；Slurry viscosity 12S-13S, solid content 12%；
Sizing speed is 40m/min, the rate of sizing 9%；
Mud-jacking technology：Using four pressure sizing technique of double leachings, preceding submergence roller pressure is 5kN, and preceding squeezing roller pressure is 14kN, after
Submergence roller pressure is 8kN, and post jacking roller pressure is 12kN；
(4) it gaits
Selvedge wear 1-2 pages it is comprehensive, body gait sequence is：1,2,3,4,1,2, (5,6,7,8,9,10) * 2,3,4,1,2,3,
4,11,12,13,14,11,12, (1,2,3,4) * 3,1,15,1,2,16,2, (1,2,3,4) * 3,11,12,13,14,11,12,
It is total to wear 77 flowers, remaining 24 yarns；1-4 pages comprehensive to wear A yarns, is plain weave, and 5-10 page comprehensive to wear B yarns, for 3/1 and 1/1 complex tissue,
11-14 pages comprehensive to wear C yarns, fabric tissue 3/1, and 15-16 pages comprehensive to wear C yarns, and fabric tissue is 3/3 rib weave；
(5) it weaves：
The selection of loom：GA747 rapier looms, speed 196r/min；
Three axis are weaved：In fabric tissue, plain weave is comprehensive using 1-4 pieces, that is, warp thread A, and interleaving degress is relatively more, needs
It individually to be weaved with an axis；Hua Jingyi, that is, B yarns, fabric tissue is 3/1 and 1/1 complex tissue, comprehensive using 5-10 pages；
Flower is through two, that is, C yarns, and under fabric tissue is 3/1 and 3/3, interleaving degress is less, needs individually into axis；Warp beam use is knitted
The original let-off mechanism of machine, flower are placed on loom rear on the ground through one, the top that flower is mounted in warp beam through two, Hua Jingyi and Hua Jing bis-
Warp run-in is controlled using frictional force；
It is produced using three weft accumulators：Weft yarn only has one kind, generates shade bar in order to prevent, carries out mixed latitude production；It is raw
During production, using three weft accumulators, according to 1:1:1 sequence, successively in turn for latitude；
Double shed：In production process, flower is moved down into two lattice through two stroke of harness frames adjusting block through one and flower, is increased
The traverse of colored warp, make flower through and ground through not in same level, forming double shed；
Opening time：Opening time is determined as 280 °；
Back beam height：Use medium back beam height, back beam height 90mm；
Warp tension：On the tension weight hammer stem of loom both sides, the tension weight of a 2.5kg is respectively configured；
Workshop moisture temperature：Workshop temperature is controlled at 24 DEG C -30 DEG C, and humid control is in 65%-70%.
As an optimization：Trimmed size：Fabric width 146cm, finished product through close 354/10cm, finished product filling density 256/
10cm, it is 2% to arrange width shrinkage, and long shrinkage is 0%, is 9% through crimp, and latitude crimp is 4.8%；Various fibers accounts in fabric
There is the share to be：Polyester fiber 53%, sunlite fibers account for 47%.
Advantageous effect：Outdoor sports thermal protection coat fabric in the present invention, when outdoor activities, it is no longer necessary to dress is loose,
The thick and heavy warm-up such as too fat to move cotton dress or eider down outerwear so that warming coat is frivolous, windproof cold-proof, the limbs fortune of very convenient people
It is dynamic, favored by numerous outdoor enthusiasts.The specific advantage of the present invention is as follows：(1) selection is suitable functional warming
Fiber keeps warming coat frivolous and has excellent wind-proof warming function；(2) hydrophobic fibre wind-proof warming effect is better than fiber
Cellulose fiber, winter outdoor sport fabric will be using hydrophobic fibres as raw material, and (3) need not make to reduce the cost of fabric
With 100% functional fiber；(4) it uses cotton yarn as filling yarn, weaves into cotton fabric, it is more thick and solid, it is warming
Effect is good, and filament yarn fabric, too merrily and lightheartedly, discomfort are fit to do thermal fabric.
Description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is the fabric card schematic diagram of the present invention.
Specific implementation mode
The technical scheme in the embodiments of the invention will be clearly and completely described below, so that the technology of this field
Personnel can be better understood from advantages and features of the invention, to make apparent boundary to protection scope of the present invention
It is fixed.Embodiment described in the invention is only a part of the embodiment of the present invention, instead of all the embodiments, based on the present invention
In embodiment, the every other implementation that those of ordinary skill in the art are obtained without making creative work
Example, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Embodiment
Winter open air housing sportswear fabric, windproof, warming, wear-resisting, quick-drying washable.Use face made of hydrophobic fibre
Material, compared to cellulose fiber fabric, windproof cold-resistant function is more superior.Long filament knits manufactured fabric, too merrily and lightheartedly, warmth retention property
Difference, fabric made of cotton staple yarn is thick and solid, is conducive to windproof, the cold-resistant function that improve fabric.
1. the product design of the present invention and fabric specification
1.1 product design：
Winter outdoor sports housing, main there are two functions, first, preventing heat losses, play warming effect；Second is that wanting
Can be windproof, prevent the intrusion of outside cold air, fabric design from being carried out mainly around the two functions.
The heat-preserving function of fabric：(1) selection of raw material:Lightweight thermal fabric will generally select thermal fiber or fever fine
Dimension, thermal fiber are generally hollow synthetic fibre, and heat generating fiber is then that special exothermic material is added in chemical fibre liquid, this
After a little exothermic material moisture absorptions, heat can be converted to.Warm and windproof feature, this fabric is required to select according to winter coat fabric
Sunlite hollow warm-keeping fibers are as heat insulating material.Because of sunlite hollow warm-keeping fibers, compared with homogeneity general fibre, matter
Amount can mitigate 20%, and warming effect is higher than homogeneity general fibre by 65%.Therefore warm-up is compared to thermal cloths such as down jackets, it appears
It is frivolous, facilitate the limb activity of people.Heat-preserving function is good, while fabric is not easy to breathe freely, and has excellent wind-shielding function.And it is fine to generate heat
The moisture pick-up properties needed, generally cellulose fibre are tieed up, heat generating fiber and thermal fiber are blended, and heater yarn is made.Fiber
The permeability of cellulose fiber is good, it is not easy to and it is windproof, therefore this housing fabric does not select heater yarn.(2) spun yarn：Winter family
The housing of outer movement, thermal property will be got well, and fabric cannot be too frivolous, and filament yarn fabric is too slim and graceful, and discomfort is fit to do thermal fabric.
Filling yarn will select spun yarn, be fabricated to cotton like fabric, and fabric is thick and solid, good warmth retention effect.(3) line density of yarn：Winter
Outdoor sport fabric wants thick and solid, and filling yarn will select thicker yarn, warp thread to select 18.5tex terylene short fiber yarns, weft yarn choosing
With the super hollow warm-keeping staple-yarns of the sunlite of 19.5tex.
Other aspects of fabric：(1) comfort：Winter outdoor leisure sportswear fabric will not note body as coat garment
It wears, because of the pro-skin performance without paying close attention to fabric, the raw material of fabric is preferably selected hydrophobic fibre.Hydrophobic fibre is not easy
Ventilative, wind-proof warming effect is good, and regain is low, and fabric preferably washes quick-drying, and fiber strength is high, and fabric wear-resisting property is good.This money fabric
All using synthetic fibers, warp thread selects polyester fiber, weft yarn to select sunlite hollow warm-keeping fibers.(2) sexual valence of fabric
Than：Functional fabric need not all using expensive functional fiber, ordinary polyester yarn and super hollow warm-keeping Polyester Yarns,
It is used in mixed way, fabric cost can be reduced.(3) fabric tissue：Basic organization of the plain weave as fabric is selected, but in order to increase face
The fashion of material adds jacquard weave element, and by 3/1 and 1/1 complex tissue, 3/3 rib weave constitutes vertical bar lines, increases
The stylishness and three-dimensional sense of fabric.
1.2 fabric specifications：
Fabric specification：Fabric breadth 149cm, fabric is through close 350/10cm, 256/10cm of fabric filling density, and ground tissue is every
Reed penetration number 2 enters, and Selvage Stitch enters per reed penetration number 2,165 teeth of porter/10cm, upper machine reed width 156.6cm.
Warp thread is the terylene short fiber yarn of 18.5tex, and color is deep zhang of color, passes through and spends with being divided into through A indicates body warp, B
Indicate that Hua Jingyi, C indicate flower through two.The arranged sequence of color is 6A, 12B, 6A, 6C, 13A, 1C, 2A, 1C, 13A, 6C.One flower warp
Yarn radical is 66, wherein 40, A yarns, 12, B yarns, 14, C yarns, and full width 77 is spent, and remainings 24, and remaining yarn color is 12, A yarns, B
12, yarn.3092, A yarns in full width fabric, 936, B yarns, 1078, C yarns.Total quantity of warps 5178, wherein 72, side yarn.
Weft yarn is the warming yarns of 19.5tex sunlite, and color is that sparrow is blue.Fabric pegging plan is as shown in Figure 1.
2. production essentials
2.1 winder
Use NC.21 rewinder rewindings.Warp thread is 18.5tex terylene short fiber yarns, and the sunlite that weft yarn is 19.5tex is protected
Warm yarn, yarn is thicker, and single thread force is higher, and when winder can use higher winder speed, set winder speed as
1000m/min, the type bobbin-winding machine use metal drum, and when rewinding is not allowed easy to produce static electricity, and can select higher winder
One of the reason of speed.NC.21 bobbin-winding machine influence of winding tension is divided into 11 grades, and winder additional tension is set as 6 grades when this fabric produces.
Although single thread force is high, winder speed also should not be fast again, because Polyester Yarns has been easy electrostatic, speed can lead to Yarn filoplume soon
Increase.
2.2 warping
Select ky601 type warping machine warpings.Warp thread is 18.5tex terylene short fiber yarns, and single thread force is high, easily plays electrostatic, whole
Relatively low control is wanted through speed, compared with the cotton yarn of same specification, speed wants low 20% or more, and speed is high, and electrostatic can cause largely
Filoplume, this fabric produce when, warping speed control in 400m/min, for the generation of minimizing electrostatic, warping channel wants bright and clean,
The channels such as twizzle, tensioner cannot have the sundries such as flyings, hard waste, since speed of beaming is slower, need to carry out additional tension
Setting, bobbin cradle is divided into three sections, and leading portion tension is 6 grades, and stage casing tension is 5 grades, and back segment additional tension is 4 grades.
Warping matches axis：Wire gauze A yarns amount to 3092, and 72, side yarn adds up to 3164, are made into 5 warp beams, and warping matches axis
For 633*4+632*1.Flower 936, is made into 2 axis, warping is 468*2 with axis through a B yarns.Flower 1078, is made into 2 through two C yarns
Axis, warping are 539*2 with axis.
2.3 sizing
Using S432 type ancestral gram sizing machines, slurry formula is：PVA205 slurries 30%, js-3 slurries 35%, acrylic compounds
Slurry 30%, the efficient smooth agents 2% of SLMO-96,963 antistatic agents 3%.Slurry viscosity 12S-13S, solid content 12%.
Warp thread is terylene short fiber yarn, and according to the similar principle to mix, slurry selects PVA slurries.Js-3 slurries are that Xianyang is stretched
A kind of Modified PVA of big spinning sizing agent company production, the leasing performance of slurry are relatively good.The impregnability ratio of acrylic size
Preferably, acrylic size is added, the enhancing of yarn is conducive to, terylene easy tos produce electrostatic, 2% is added in formula of size
Efficient smooth agent and 3% 963 antistatic agents, to reduce the friction of yarn, to the generation of minimizing electrostatic.
Sizing speed 40m/min.The reason of sizing speed should not be fast, and there are two aspects：First, slurry is PVA, serous coat is viscous
Lian Duo is easy tearing serous coat；Second is that pure polyester yarn, easy tos produce electrostatic, for the generation of minimizing electrostatic, therefore sizing speed is not
It is preferably fast.
The rate of sizing 9%, slurry are chemical pulp, and the rate of sizing should not be too high.The rate of sizing is high, and the adhesion between yarn is more, when leasing
It is easy tearing serous coat, wear resistance is caused to reduce.
Mud-jacking technology：Using four pressure sizing technique of double leachings, preceding submergence roller pressure is 5kN, and preceding squeezing roller pressure is 14kN, after
Submergence roller pressure is 8kN, and post jacking roller pressure is 12kN, and preceding squeezing roller pressure is big, and impregnability is good when sizing, the increasing to spun yarn
It is strong advantageous；Post jacking pressure is less than normal, is good coating in order to obtain.This mud-jacking technology, can take into account be impregnated with it is coating.
2.4 gaiting
Selvedge wear 1-2 pages it is comprehensive, body gait sequence is：1,2,3,4,1,2, (5,6,7,8,9,10) * 2,3,4,1,2,3,
4,11,12,13,14,11,12, (1,2,3,4) * 3,1,15,1,2,16,2, (1,2,3,4) * 3,11,12,13,14,11,12,
It is total to wear 77 flowers, remaining 24 yarns.1-4 pages comprehensive to wear A yarns, is plain weave, and 5-10 page comprehensive to wear B yarns, for 3/1 and 1/1 complex tissue,
11-14 pages comprehensive to wear C yarns, fabric tissue 3/1, and 15-16 pages comprehensive to wear C yarns, and fabric tissue is 3/3 rib weave.
2.5 weaving：
The selection of loom：Warp thread has body warp, Hua Jingyi and Hua Jing bis-, and the interleaving degress diversity ratio of warp thread is larger, needs
Three axis are weaved, therefore shed open is not easy clearly, and difficulty of weaving is bigger, when selecting loom, had better not select high speed loom, high
Fast loom is difficult it is difficult to play weaving machine high-speed performance.When therefore producing this money fabric, we select low speed rapier loom to weave, energy
The performance of low speed rapier loom is given full play to, production efficiency has reached 91%, and float is fewer.Use High Speed Rapier Loom
When production, efficiency only has 80% or so, and star jump fault is more.The speed of GA747 rapier looms is 196r/min.
Three axis are weaved：In fabric tissue, plain weave is comprehensive using 1-4 pieces, that is, warp thread A, and interleaving degress is relatively more, needs
It individually to be weaved with an axis.Hua Jingyi, that is, B yarns, fabric tissue is 3/1 and 1/1 complex tissue, comprehensive using 5-10 pages；
Flower is through two, that is, C yarns, and under fabric tissue is 3/1 and 3/3, interleaving degress is less, needs individually into axis.Warp beam use is knitted
The original let-off mechanism of machine, flower are placed on loom rear on the ground through one, the top that flower is mounted in warp beam through two, Hua Jingyi and Hua Jing bis-
Warp run-in is controlled using frictional force.
It is produced using three weft accumulators：Weft yarn only has one kind, generates shade bar in order to prevent, carries out mixed latitude production.It is real
In the production process of border, using three weft accumulators, according to 1:1:1 sequence, successively in turn for latitude.
Double shed：Warp thread is Polyester Yarns, and when friction easy tos produce electrostatic, using double shed, passes through with reducing
Friction between flower warp thread, reduces the generation of electrostatic.In actual production process, by flower through one and flower through two stroke of harness frames tune
Locking nub moves down two lattice, increases the traverse of flower warp, makes flower warp and ground through in same level, not foring double shed, subtracting
Lack the friction between ground warp and flower warp, is conducive to the generation of minimizing electrostatic.It is using another benefit of double shed：Conducive to shuttle
Mouth is clear.Flower is small through tension, and shed open is not easy clearly, to increase flower after traverse, shed open is easy clear.Since flower is through tension
It is small, increase shed open traverse, the broken end of warp thread will not be increased.
Opening time：Fabric tissue is that Various Tissues are compound, and shed open is not easy clearly, therefore to use early opening, opening
Time is determined as 280 °.
Back beam height uses medium back beam height, back beam height 90mm.This fabric is woven using three axis, and flower is through tension
Smaller, shed open is not easy clearly, and using the high back rest, top line is easy relaxation, causes warp end break mistakenly stop vehicle.Using medium
The warp tension difference of back beam height, levels is small, and top line is not easy to relax, and advantageously reduces warp end break mistakenly stop vehicle.
Warp tension：Ground is smaller through radical, and warp tension cannot be too big, on the tension weight hammer stem of loom both sides, respectively matches
Set the tension weight of a 2.5kg.
Workshop moisture temperature：Filling yarn is terylene, easy tos produce electrostatic, and workshop humidity wants control bigger than normal, workshop temperature
At 24 DEG C -30 DEG C, humidity will be controlled in 65%-70% for control.
3. trimmed size：
Fabric width 146cm, for finished product through close 354/10cm, 256/10cm of finished product filling density, it is 2% to arrange width shrinkage,
Long shrinkage is 0%, is 9% through crimp, and latitude crimp is 4.8%.The possession share of various fibers is in fabric：Polyester fiber
53%, sunlite fiber account for 47%.
Outdoor sports thermal protection coat fabric in the present invention, when outdoor activities, it is no longer necessary to which dress is loose, too fat to move cotton dress
Or the warm-up that eider down outerwear etc. is thick and heavy so that warming coat is frivolous, windproof cold-proof, the limb motion of very convenient people, by wide
The favor of big outdoor enthusiast.The specific advantage of the present invention is as follows：(1) the suitable functional thermal fiber of selection, makes guarantor
Warm coat is frivolous and has excellent wind-proof warming function；(2) hydrophobic fibre wind-proof warming effect is better than cellulose fibre, winter
Season, outdoor sport fabric will be using hydrophobic fibre as raw material, and (3) need not use 100% to reduce the cost of fabric
Functional fiber；(4) it uses cotton yarn as filling yarn, weaves into cotton fabric, more thick and solid, good warmth retention effect is long
Silk fabrics, too merrily and lightheartedly, discomfort are fit to do thermal fabric.
Claims (3)
1. a kind of design method of winter outdoor sports coat woven fabric, it is characterised in that：Product design is as follows：
(1) raw material preparation：Warp thread selects 18.5tex terylene short fiber yarns, weft yarn to select the super hollow warm-keepings of sunlite of 19.5tex
Staple-yarns；
(2) fabric tissue：Basic organization of the plain weave as fabric is selected, but in order to increase the fashion of fabric, adds jacquard weave
Element, by 3/1 and 1/1 complex tissue, 3/3 rib weave constitutes vertical bar lines, increases the stylishness and three-dimensional sense of fabric；
(3) fabric specification：
Fabric specification：Fabric breadth 149cm, fabric are worn through close 350/10cm, 256/10cm of fabric filling density, ground tissue per reed
Enter number 2 to enter, Selvage Stitch enters per reed penetration number 2,165 teeth of porter/10cm, upper machine reed width 156.6cm；
Warp thread is the terylene short fiber yarn of 18.5tex, and color is deep zhang of color, passes through and spends with being divided into through A indicates that body warp, B indicate
Hua Jingyi, C indicate flower through two；The arranged sequence of color is 6A, 12B, 6A, 6C, 13A, 1C, 2A, 1C, 13A, 6C；One flower warp thread root
Number is 66, wherein 40, A yarns, 12, B yarns, 14, C yarns, and full width 77 is spent, and remainings 24, and remaining yarn color is 12, A yarns, B yarns 12
Root；3092, A yarns in full width fabric, 936, B yarns, 1078, C yarns.Total quantity of warps 5178, wherein 72, side yarn；
Weft yarn is the warming yarns of 19.5tex sunlite, and color is that sparrow is blue.
2. a kind of production technology of the design method production of winter outdoor sports coat woven fabric according to claim 1,
It is characterized in that：Include the following steps：Winder --- --- weave warping by sizing --- gaiting ---；Concrete operations are as follows：
(1) winder
Using NC.21 rewinder rewindings, warp thread is 18.5tex terylene short fiber yarns, and weft yarn is the warming yarns of sunlite of 19.5tex
Line, winder speed are 1000m/min, which uses metal drum, when rewinding not to allow easy to produce static electricity, NC.21 winders
Machine influence of winding tension is divided into 11 grades, and winder additional tension is set as 6 grades when this fabric produces；
(2) warping
Ky601 type warping machine warpings are selected, the control of warping speed needs the setting for carrying out additional tension, bobbin in 400m/min
Frame is divided into three sections, and leading portion tension is 6 grades, and stage casing tension is 5 grades, and back segment additional tension is 4 grades；
Warping matches axis：Wire gauze A yarns, amount to 3092, and 72, side yarn adds up to 3164, is made into 5 warp beams, warping is with axis
633*4+632*1；Flower 936, is made into 2 axis, warping is 468*2 with axis through a B yarns；Flower 1078, is made into 2 axis through two C yarns,
Warping is 539*2 with axis；
(3) sizing
Using S432 type ancestral gram sizing machines, slurry formula is：PVA205 slurries 30%, js-3 slurries 35%, acrylic size
The efficient smooth agent 2% of 30%, SLMO-96,963 antistatic agents 3%；Slurry viscosity 12S-13S, solid content 12%；
Sizing speed is 40m/min, the rate of sizing 9%；
Mud-jacking technology：Using four pressure sizing technique of double leachings, preceding submergence roller pressure is 5kN, and preceding squeezing roller pressure is 14kN, rear to submerge
Roller pressure is 8kN, and post jacking roller pressure is 12kN；
(4) it gaits
Selvedge wear 1-2 pages it is comprehensive, body gait sequence is：1,2,3,4,1,2, (5,6,7,8,9,10) * 2,3,4,1,2,3,4,11,
12,13,14,11,12, (1,2,3,4) * 3,1,15,1,2,16,2, (1,2,3,4) * 3,11,12,13,14,11,12, it is total to wear
77 flowers, remaining 24 yarns；1-4 pages comprehensive to wear A yarns, is plain weave, and 5-10 page comprehensive to wear B yarns, for 3/1 and 1/1 complex tissue, 11-14
Page is comprehensive to wear C yarns, fabric tissue 3/1, and 15-16 page comprehensive to wear C yarns, and fabric tissue is 3/3 rib weave；
(5) it weaves：
The selection of loom：GA747 rapier looms, speed 196r/min；
Three axis are weaved：In fabric tissue, plain weave is comprehensive using 1-4 pieces, that is, warp thread A, and interleaving degress is relatively more, needs list
Private axis weaving；Hua Jingyi, that is, B yarns, fabric tissue is 3/1 and 1/1 complex tissue, comprehensive using 5-10 pages；Hua Jing
Two, that is, C yarns, under fabric tissue is 3/1 and 3/3, interleaving degress is less, needs individually into axis；Warp beam is former using loom
Some let-off mechanisms, flower are placed on loom rear on the ground through one, and the top that flower is mounted in warp beam through two, Hua Jingyi and Hua Jing bis- are used
Frictional force controls warp run-in；
It is produced using three weft accumulators：Weft yarn only has one kind, generates shade bar in order to prevent, carries out mixed latitude production；It produced
Cheng Zhong, using three weft accumulators, according to 1:1:1 sequence, successively in turn for latitude；
Double shed：In production process, flower is moved down two lattice, increase flower through one and flower through two stroke of harness frames adjusting block
The traverse of warp makes flower warp and ground through not in same level, forming double shed；
Opening time：Opening time is determined as 280 °；
Back beam height：Use medium back beam height, back beam height 90mm；
Warp tension：On the tension weight hammer stem of loom both sides, the tension weight of a 2.5kg is respectively configured；
Workshop moisture temperature：Workshop temperature is controlled at 24 DEG C -30 DEG C, and humid control is in 65%-70%.
3. the production technology of winter outdoor sports coat woven fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that：Finished product is advised
Lattice：Fabric width 146cm, finished product is through close 354/10cm, 256/10cm of finished product filling density, and it is 2% to arrange width shrinkage, long shrinkage
It is 0%, is 9% through crimp, latitude crimp is 4.8%；The possession share of various fibers is in fabric：Polyester fiber 53%,
Sunlite fibers account for 47%.
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Application publication date: 20180925 |