CN107313148B - A kind of production technology of the functional double-deck open-work fabric - Google Patents
A kind of production technology of the functional double-deck open-work fabric Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN107313148B CN107313148B CN201710571420.9A CN201710571420A CN107313148B CN 107313148 B CN107313148 B CN 107313148B CN 201710571420 A CN201710571420 A CN 201710571420A CN 107313148 B CN107313148 B CN 107313148B
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- fabric
- layer
- yarn
- work
- weft
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 109
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 34
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 title claims description 17
- 239000010410 layer Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 65
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 41
- 239000002344 surface layer Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 25
- 238000002845 discoloration Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N carbon Chemical compound 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- 231100000707 mutagenic chemical Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- UFWIBTONFRDIAS-UHFFFAOYSA-N naphthalene Chemical compound 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C1=CC=CC2=CC=CC=C21 UFWIBTONFRDIAS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000006116 polymerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002964 rayon Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001131 transforming Effects 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D9/00—Open-work fabrics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D47/00—Looms in which bulk supply of weft does not pass through shed, e.g. shuttleless looms, gripper shuttle looms, dummy shuttle looms
- D03D47/12—Looms in which bulk supply of weft does not pass through shed, e.g. shuttleless looms, gripper shuttle looms, dummy shuttle looms wherein single picks of weft thread are inserted, i.e. with shedding between each pick
- D03D47/18—Looms in which bulk supply of weft does not pass through shed, e.g. shuttleless looms, gripper shuttle looms, dummy shuttle looms wherein single picks of weft thread are inserted, i.e. with shedding between each pick two weft inserters meeting at or near the middle of the shed and transferring the weft from one to the other
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D49/00—Details or constructional features not specially adapted for looms of a particular type
- D03D49/04—Control of the tension in warp or cloth
- D03D49/22—Back rests; Lease rods; Brest beams
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
- D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
- D10B2201/24—Viscose
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
Abstract
The invention discloses a kind of production technologies of the functional double-deck open-work fabric.The double-deck open-work fabric of functionality prepared in the present invention is：Double-layered structure, mock leno weave are combined together, inner layer blind hole when the open-work of surface layer, surface layer not transmission, forms a kind of stereochemical structure fabric when inner layer open-work；The different fiber of function is respectively adopted from inner layer on the surface layer of fabric simultaneously, forms surface uvioresistant, discoloration, comfortable feel, inner layer with antibacterial, heat conduction, lead wet, uvioresistant, lead wet design：Inner layer regain is smaller, and wet guilding is good, thermal conductivity is good, wearability is good；Outer layer regain is big, and inner layer sweat is oriented to outer level, and opposite dry and comfortable of holding inner layer avoids inner layer from forming wet, hot feeling.With moisture absorption, ventilative, nice and cool, antibacterial, uvioresistant, discoloration, fashion functional fabric.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to textile fabric manufacturing fields, and in particular to a kind of production technology of the functional double-deck open-work fabric.
Background technology
Functional bilayer open-work fabric is：Double-layered structure, mock leno weave are combined together, inner layer is impermeable when the open-work of surface layer
Hole, surface layer not transmission, forms a kind of stereochemical structure fabric when inner layer open-work；Work(is respectively adopted on the surface layer of fabric and inner layer simultaneously
The different fiber of energy property, forms surface uvioresistant, discoloration, comfortable feel, and inner layer has antibacterial, heat conduction, leads wet, uvioresistant, is resistance to
Mill property is good, leads wet design：Inner layer regain is smaller, and wet guilding is good, thermal conductivity is good, and outer layer regain is big, is conducive to inner layer sweat
Liquid is oriented to outer layer, keeps opposite dry and comfortable of inner layer, inner layer is avoided to form wet, hot feeling.With moisture absorption, ventilative, nice and cool, anti-purple
Outside, the functional fabric of antibacterial, discoloration, fashion.
Invention content
Goal of the invention：In order to solve the deficiencies in the prior art, the present invention provides a kind of functional double-deck open-work fabrics
Production technology.
Technical solution：A kind of functional double-deck open-work fabric, the functional double-deck open-work fabric, double-layered structure, thoroughly
Hole tissue is combined together, inner layer blind hole when the open-work of surface layer, and surface layer not transmission, forms a kind of stereochemical structure face when inner layer open-work
Material；Functional different fiber is respectively adopted from inner layer on the surface layer of fabric simultaneously：
The surface layer：
The surface layer：
Warp thread：A kind of photochromic viscose filament yarn A, 150D/72F；
Weft yarn：A kind of photochromic viscose filament yarn color spot silk, wherein：Photochromic viscose filament yarn B is 150D/72F.Color spot
For coloured viscose staple fibre, color spot is distributed as：Length 35mm, rugosity 30%, spacing are：200、300、600、450、250mm；
Photochromic viscose filament yarn A, photochromic viscose filament yarn B can be the same or different；
Color spot：The FA311 types drawing frame of Blowing carding → bis- → FA458 type fly frames；
Color spot silk：FA507 types spinning frame → village field NO.21C automatic winders；
Blowing carding：Cotton strip quantity is 21g/5m, speed 150m/min；
Two draftings：Quantification of 18.5g/5m, speed 350m/min；
Rove：Quantification of 4.0g/10m, ingot speed 1100r/min；
Spun yarn：Ingot speed is 15000r/min, and twist factor is designed as 280；
Winder：Speed is 1200m/min；
The inner layer：
Warp thread：Graphene chinlon filament, 150D/72F, wherein：The graphene content of fiber is 0.2-2%；
Weft yarn：Graphene chinlon filament and Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber long filament and twisted filament, Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber content 15-50%, wherein：
The graphene content of graphene chinlon filament fiber is 0.2-2%；Graphene chinlon filament is 100D/36F, and Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber is long
Silk is 50D/24F, twist factor 200-350；
Graphene chinlon filament, Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber long filament：First pass through GD102 types Twistless Silk Doubling and silk, then with TZ326 types
Chemical fiber double-twister carries out double twisting；
Doubling winder：Speed is 250m/min；
Two-for-one twister：Ingot speed is 8500r/min, and twist factor is designed as 240.
A kind of production technology of the double-deck open-work fabric of functionality described in basis, includes the following steps：
(1) whole slurry
The intelligent sizing warper productions of XZJ300 are selected, bobbin cradle capacity is 1680, and it is 250m/ that highest, which starches silk speed,
min；
This fabric warp has two kinds of graphene Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn, their requirements to slurry are different,
Two kinds of warp thread need independent warpings, after the completion of warping sizing, then are merged by warp rebeaming machine；
The warping of graphene Polyamide Yarns：Graphene Polyamide Yarns one spends 72, and full width 68 is spent, and it is 4896 to add up to radical, cylinder
The capacity of subrack is 1680, is made into 3 warp beams, is 1632*3 with axis；
Slurry silk speed is 180m/min, and formula of size is：PAM slurries 65%, PVA205MB 30%, antistatic agent SN
3%, JFC 2%；The rate of sizing of graphene Polyamide Yarns is 8%, and regain control is 3.5%, using low temperature starching, single single pressure of leaching
Technique；
Using low temperature starching technique, slurry groove temperature is controlled at 35 DEG C -45 DEG C, and stock tank no longer heats slurries, stock tank
Temperature by mixing cirtern slurries temperature control；
The warping of photochromic viscose filament yarn：The radical of photochromic viscose filament yarn and the radical one of graphene Polyamide Yarns
Sample and 4896, side yarn are 48, select the cotton yarn of 18tex as side yarn；Photochromic viscose filament yarn is made into 3 axis, per axis
16 side yarns are 1648*3 with axis per the yarn at each 8；
Slurry silk speed is 45m/min, and formula of size is：Converted starch 70%, PVA205MB slurries 30%；The rate of sizing controls
11%, regain is controlled in 9%-10%；
The tension of both when warping is controlled in 23cN；
(2) and axis
Using KB30 warp rebeaming machines, and axle speed is 60m/min, and after axis with leased line by graphene Polyamide Yarns and photic
The viscose filament yarn that changes colour separates, and work of conveniently gaiting takes yarn；
(3) denting
It is gaited using subregion, photochromic viscose filament yarn is through proparea, comprehensive using 1-8 pages, after graphene Polyamide Yarns is through
Area, comprehensive using 9-16 pages, ground tissue, which is gaited, is sequentially：(1,9,2,10,1,9,3,11,4,12,3,11) * 6, (5,13,6,14,
5,13,7,15,8,16,7,15) * 6, enter per reed 3；
(4) it weaves：
GA747 rapier looms are selected to weave, loom rotating speed is 190r/min；
Opening time：Opening time is determined as 2800；
Double shed technique：Graphene Polyamide Yarns stroke of harness frames adjusting block is moved down into two lattice using double shed,
So that the traverse of graphene Polyamide Yarns heald frame is increased, forms double shed；
Back beam height：The back rest in selection, back beam height 95mm, when production, move down the back rest, increase top line
Tension reduces the sinking of top line, clearly advantageous to shed open；
Weft insertion technique：Send sword into when sword be 800, connect latitude sword move back the sword time be 2800；
Warp tension：Using medium warp tension, the tension weight of a 5kg is respectively configured on the tension weight hammer stem of both sides
Hammer, the position of weight can partially after machine some, reduce the warp tension of fabric；
The chucking power of bringer sword：Graphene Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn all compare light compared with spun yarn
It is sliding, it is easy to slip in the jaw of bringer sword, therefore in production process, to increase the chucking power of bringer sword jaw.Mobile bringer
Sponge below sword jaw, thus it is possible to vary the size of the chucking power of jaw；
The chucking power of weft accumulator spring leaf：Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn all smoothers are easy to rouse in yarn storage
Upper knocking over, therefore the chucking power of weft accumulator spring leaf is increased when production, Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn are avoided as possible
Knocking over；
Weft Insertion：Since Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn are easy to slip from bringer sword jaw, wefting insertion
Tension wants small.When tram passes through weft examining device, it not pass through presser bar, reduce Weft Insertion.
As an optimization：The selection of the textile：Nexine fabric woven warp thread selects 150D/72F graphene Polyamide Yarns, weft yarn
Selection graphene chinlon filament is 100D/36F and Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber long filament is 50D/24F and twisted filament, twist factor 200-350；
Top fabric woven, warp thread select the photochromic viscose filament yarns of 150D/72F, are pink colour before discoloration, are sea blue color after discoloration, weft yarn is long
Silk selects the photochromic viscose filament yarns of 150D/72F, is white before discoloration, is daffod after discoloration, and color spot is red short rayon fiber
Dimension, color spot are distributed as：Length 35mm, rugosity 30%, spacing are：200、300、600、450、250mm.
As an optimization：The organization design of the fabric：Fabric tissue selects the double-deck mock leno weave, textura epidermoidea, open-work and
Plain cloth is alternately present；Inner layer tissue, the same with textura epidermoidea, open-work and plain weave are alternately present；In when textura epidermoidea's open-work
Layer tissue is plain weave, and textura epidermoidea is plain weave when inner layer tissue open-work；Table warp, back warp press 1:1 arrangement；Weft yarn arrangement is：[(table
Latitude 1, outer weft 2) * 6, binding pick], the color of binding pick will be selected to be close or identical with outer weft, back weft.
As an optimization：The fabric specification of fabric, fabric breadth 154cm, fabric through it is close be 640/10cm, fabric filling density is
460/10cm, upper machine reed width 160cm, 205 teeth of porter/10cm, 48, side yarn, full width total quantity of warps 9840, a flower cycle
Number is 144, and full width 68 is spent, and ground tissue enters per reed 3, and Selvage Stitch enters per reed 2.
As an optimization：The trimmed size of the fabric：The Fabric width of fabric is 144cm, finished product through it is close be 684/
10cm, finished product filling density are 474/10cm, and it is 6.5% to arrange width shrinkage, and it is 3% to arrange long shrinkage, are 6.7% through crimp, latitude
Crimp is 3.8%.
Advantageous effect：The double-deck open-work fabric of functionality prepared in the present invention is：Double-layered structure, mock leno weave are incorporated in
Together, inner layer blind hole when the open-work of surface layer, surface layer not transmission, forms a kind of stereochemical structure fabric when inner layer open-work；Simultaneously in face
Functional different fiber is respectively adopted from inner layer in the surface layer of material, forms surface uvioresistant, colorful color-changeable, fashion, moisture absorption, feel
Comfortably, inner layer has antibacterial, heat conduction, leads the good design of wet, uvioresistant, wearability：Inner layer regain is smaller, and wet guilding is good, leads
Hot good, outer layer regain is big, is conducive to inner layer sweat to be oriented to outer layer, keeps opposite dry and comfortable of inner layer, inner layer is avoided to be formed
Wet, hot feeling.With moisture absorption, ventilative, nice and cool, uvioresistant, antibacterial, discoloration, fashion functional fabric.
Technology point in the present invention is：This functional fabric, fabric tissue is complicated, and difficulty of weaving is big：(1) using anti-
Weave reduces the rubbing machine meeting of Polyamide Yarns, the generation of minimizing electrostatic；(2) technological design when with low speed, subtract elongation, protect elasticity
For basic technology principle；(3) through close big, shed open is not easy clearly, by double shed, to reduce the friction between warp thread, improve
Shed open clarity；(4) Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn smoother are easy when wefting insertion to slip in shed open, pass through increasing
Add the chucking power of bringer sword jaw, reduce Weft Insertion technique, prevents graphene Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn from slipping；
(5) medium back beam height is used, the sinking of top line is reduced.By above series of process measure, solves and produced
Many technical barriers in journey have ensured being smoothed out for production.
Description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is textura epidermoidea's figure of the present invention；
Fig. 2 is the inner layer organization chart of the present invention；
Fig. 3 is the fabric organization chart of the present invention.
Specific implementation mode
The technical scheme in the embodiments of the invention will be clearly and completely described below, so that the technology of this field
Personnel can be better understood from advantages and features of the invention, to make apparent boundary to protection scope of the present invention
It is fixed.Embodiment described in the invention is only a part of the embodiment of the present invention, instead of all the embodiments, based on the present invention
In embodiment, the every other implementation that those of ordinary skill in the art are obtained without making creative work
Example, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Embodiment
A kind of functional double-deck open-work fabric, is combined together double-layered structure, mock leno weave, and inner layer is not when the open-work of surface layer
Open-work, surface layer not transmission, forms a kind of stereochemical structure fabric when inner layer open-work；It is respectively adopted simultaneously with inner layer on the surface layer of fabric
Functional different fiber forms surface uvioresistant, discoloration, comfortable feel, and inner layer has antibacterial, heat conduction, leads wet, uvioresistant,
Lead wet design：Inner layer regain is smaller, and wet guilding is good, thermal conductivity is good, wearability is good；Outer layer regain is big, and inner layer sweat is led
Outside level keeps opposite dry and comfortable of inner layer, inner layer is avoided to form wet, hot feeling.With moisture absorption, ventilative, nice and cool, antibacterial,
Uvioresistant, discoloration, fashion functional fabric.
The surface layer
Warp thread：A kind of photochromic viscose filament yarn A, 150D/72F
Weft yarn：A kind of photochromic viscose filament yarn color spot silk, wherein：Photochromic viscose filament yarn B is 150D/72F.Color spot
For coloured viscose staple fibre, color spot is distributed as：Length 35mm, rugosity 30%, spacing are：200、300、600、450、250mm.
Photochromic viscose filament yarn A, photochromic viscose filament yarn B can be the same or different.
Color spot：Blowing carding → FA311 types drawing frame (two) → FA458 type fly frames
Color spot silk：FA507 types spinning frame (passing through technological transformation) → village field NO.21C automatic winders
Blowing carding：Cotton strip quantity is 21g/5m, speed 150m/min.
Two draftings：Quantification of 18.5g/5m, speed 350m/min.
Rove：Quantification of 4.0g/10m, ingot speed 1100r/min.
Spun yarn：Ingot speed is 15000r/min, and twist factor is designed as 280,
Winder：Speed is 1200m/min.
The inner layer：
Warp thread：Graphene chinlon filament, 150D/72F, wherein：The graphene content of fiber is 0.2-2%
Weft yarn：Graphene chinlon filament and Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber long filament and twisted filament, Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber content 15-50%, wherein：
The graphene content of graphene chinlon filament fiber is 0.2-2%；Graphene chinlon filament is 100D/36F, and Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber is long
Silk is 50D/24F, twist factor 200-350.
Graphene chinlon filament, Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber long filament：First pass through GD102 types Twistless Silk Doubling and silk, then with TZ326 types
Chemical fiber double-twister carries out double twisting
Doubling winder：Speed is 250m/min
Two-for-one twister：Ingot speed is 8500r/min, and twist factor is designed as 240.
Photochromic viscose filament yarn employed in the present invention, can be with moment from colourless under sunlight or ultraviolet irradiation
Become coloured, another color can also be become from coloured, when stopping irradiating, fiber is restored to original color again.Table 1 is that Xinxiang is white
The photochromic viscose rayon kind of aigret chemical fibre group production.
1 photochromic viscose rayon kind of table
Graphene nylon fibre employed in the present invention, is that graphene is added in nylon fibre, which has
The functions such as antibacterial, anti-mite, uvioresistant, antistatic.
Case 1:
Inner layer：Warp thread：150D/72F graphene Polyamide Yarns；Weft yarn：100D/36F graphene Polyamide Yarns+50D/24F is hydrophilic
Property dacron thread.Surface layer：The photochromic viscose filament yarn 11# of warp thread 150D/72F；Weft yarn：The photochromic viscose filament yarns of 150D/72F
1#, color spot are red viscose glue；Photochromic viscose filament yarn, before discoloration：1# whites, 11# pink colours, after discoloration：1# daffods, 11#
Sea blue color.
1. the design of fabric
The selection of designing points (1) textiles of fabric：Top fabric woven warp thread selects 150D/72F graphene polyamide fibres
Silk, weft yarn select the graphene chinlon filament and Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber long filament and twisted filament, Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber content 15- of 150D/72F
50%；Nexine fabric woven, warp thread select the photochromic viscose filament yarn 11# of 150D/72F, and 11# is pink colour before changing colour, the seas 11# after discoloration
Blue, weft yarn select 150D/72F viscose glue illusion-colour silk 1#, 1# whites before changing colour, 1# daffods after discoloration, and color spot is red viscose glue；
(2) the anti-weaving process of fabric is used：Warp thread of the graphene chinlon filament as top fabric woven when weaving nexine fabric woven, needs frequently
Lift, electrostatic is easy tod produce, when this fabric produces, using anti-weave technique, using graphene chinlon filament as nexine fabric woven
Organizine, when weaving upper layer of fabric in this way, graphene chinlon filament need not lift, and significantly reduce graphene chinlon filament
The chance of friction reduces broken end as far as possible；(3) organization design of fabric：Fabric tissue selects the double-deck mock leno weave, surface layer group
It knits, open-work and plain cloth are alternately present, and textura epidermoidea's figure is as shown in Figure 1.Inner layer tissue, it is the same with textura epidermoidea, open-work and
Plain weave is alternately present, and inner layer organization chart is as shown in Figure 2.The organization chart of fabric with 1-12 in figure as shown in figure 3, indicate table through table
Latitude indicates back warp back weft with a-L, ■ indicate textura epidermoidea through interlacing point,Indicate being indicated through interlacing point, zero for nexine fabric woven
When weaving back weft, table is through will all lift；(4) stitch weave of fabric：Stitch weave of the binding pick as two-layer fabrics is selected,
Binding pick indicates in organization chart with I and II, binding pick connect in △ expressions in the centre of two-layer fabrics, figure under binding place,
Back warp lifts herein to interweave with binding pick.In figure ▲ indicate under the binding place that connects, in weaving originally, when layer fabric, table warp
Should all lift, but here table through not lifting, but with binding pick realize interweave；(5) table warp, back warp press 1:1 arrangement；
(6) weft yarn arrangement is：The color of [(outer weft 1, outer weft 2) * 6, binding pick], binding pick will be selected carefully a bit, color and outer weft, back weft
It is close or identical.
The fabric specification of fabric, fabric breadth 154cm, fabric through it is close be 640/10cm, fabric filling density is 460/
10cm, upper machine reed width 160cm, 205 teeth of porter/10cm, 48, side yarn, full width total quantity of warps 9840, a flower recurring number is 144
Root, full width 68 are spent, and ground tissue enters per reed 3, and Selvage Stitch enters per reed 2.
2. the production essentials of fabric：
Because the price of yarn is relatively high, the amount of placing an order is smaller, is produced using whole slurry process integration, to reduce back
Silk reduces production cost.
2.1 whole slurries
The intelligent sizing warper productions of XZJ300, the type sizing warper is selected to spin Science and Technology Ltd. by Suzhou four and give birth to
Production, bobbin cradle capacity are 1680, and it is 250m/min that highest, which starches silk speed,.
This fabric warp has two kinds of graphene Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn, their requirements to slurry are different,
Two kinds of warp thread need independent warpings, after the completion of warping sizing, then are merged by warp rebeaming machine.
The warping of graphene Polyamide Yarns：Graphene Polyamide Yarns one spends 72, and full width 68 is spent, and it is 4896 to add up to radical, cylinder
The capacity of subrack is 1680, is made into 3 warp beams, is 1632*3 with axis.
Slurry silk speed is 180m/min.Formula of size is：PAM slurries 65%, PVA205MB 30%, antistatic agent SN
3%, JFC 2%；Graphene Polyamide Yarns contains a large amount of amide groups, and according to the similar principle to mix, slurry will also contain amide
Base, PAM polyacrylamides, belongs to acrylic size, containing a large amount of amide groups, is suitable for the starching of graphene Polyamide Yarns.
Acrylic size feature is to be easy desizing, the disadvantage is that serous coat is softer, not wear-resisting, the weft density of two-layer fabric all compares
Greatly, PVA205MB therefore is added in the slurry, to enhance the wear-resisting property of serous coat.The rate of sizing of graphene Polyamide Yarns is 8%,
Regain control is 3.5%, using low temperature starching, single single pressure technique of leaching.
Using low temperature starching technique, slurry groove temperature is controlled at 35 DEG C -45 DEG C, and stock tank no longer heats slurries, stock tank
Temperature by mixing cirtern slurries temperature control.It is using the reason of low temperature starching：Graphene Polyamide Yarns is easy under hygrometric state
Elongation, with the raising of temperature, graphene Polyamide Yarns will produce the fault similar to slub, therefore use low temperature starching.
It to use the single pressure technique of single leaching to be easy elongation the reason is that the initial modulus of polyamide fibre is low when starching, soak single pressure technique using single, it can
To reduce the elongation of warp to the maximum extent.
The warping of photochromic viscose filament yarn：The radical of photochromic viscose filament yarn and the radical one of graphene Polyamide Yarns
Sample and 4896, side yarn are 48, select the cotton yarn of 18tex as side yarn, cotton yarn and photochromic viscose filament yarn, all belong to
Identical in the mechanism of cellulose fibre, starching, whole slurry of putting together, side yarn selects cotton yarn, can reduce production cost.Illusion-colour silk
3 axis are made into, are 1648*3 with axis per the yarn at each 8 per 16 side yarns of axis.
Slurry silk speed is 45m/min, and formula of size is：Converted starch 70%, PVA205MB slurries 30%；It is photochromic viscous
Glue long filament can use full starch slurry, but this fabric is two-layer fabric, and the thread count of fabric is big, the wear-resisting requirement to sizing
Height, therefore PVA205MB slurries are added in formula of size.It is the same with graphene Polyamide Yarns when using sizing warper, make
With low temperature starching, slurry to select low polymerization degree, low viscosity slurry.Photochromic viscose filament yarn it is wet strong relatively low, only
The elongation that photochromic viscose filament yarn is prevented when doing strong 50%, therefore starching silk, wet area's tension will be controlled when starching silk, used
Single single pressure sizing technique of leaching, reduces the elongation of photochromic viscose filament yarn as much as possible.Rate of sizing control is 11%, regain control
System is in 9%-10%, and speed wants low when starching silk, prevents serous coat when photochromic viscose filament yarn elongation and leasing from tearing.
The initial modulus of graphene Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn is all smaller, is easy to extend, in production process
Technological design will with small tension receiving coil, protect elasticity as basic principle, when warping sizing, tension is strictly controlled, due to bobbin cradle
Length is longer, and whole slurry speed is slow, and in order to ensure the uniform of piece yarn tension, tension in Warping is detected with single yarn tester, according to
Testing result adjusts additional tension, and the tension of both when warping is controlled in 23cN or so.
When whole slurry it is noted that the Silk Road it is unimpeded, impulse- free robustness, foreign prevent long filament from fluffing, and influence the quality of fabric.
2.2 and axis
Use KB30 warp rebeaming machines.And axle speed is 60m/min.And axle speed should not be big, because of the light of graphene Polyamide Yarns
The initial modulus of mutagens color viscose filament yarn is low, and axis easily causes the elongation of long filament soon, influences the production of later process.And after axis
Graphene Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn are separated with leased line, work of conveniently gaiting takes yarn.
2.3 denting
It is gaited using subregion, photochromic viscose filament yarn is through proparea, comprehensive using 1-8 pages, after graphene Polyamide Yarns is through
Area, comprehensive using 9-16 pages, ground tissue, which is gaited, is sequentially：(1,9,2,10,1,9,3,11,4,12,3,11) * 6, (5,13,6,14,
5,13,7,15,8,16,7,15) * 6, enter per reed 3.
2.4 weaving
GA747 rapier looms are selected to weave, loom rotating speed is 190r/min.Low speed rapier loom is selected to weave, there are two
Reason：First, this fabric institutional framework is the double-deck mock leno weave, and it is complicated, use the heald frames of page 16, through close bigger, shed open
It is clear to be not easy, and selects low speed rapier loom, clearly advantageous to shed open；Second is that speed advantageously reduces the generation of electrostatic slowly.
Opening time：Opening time is determined as 280 °.Since the fabric is through close big, shed open is not easy clearly, to select early opening
It is clear to be conducive to shed open for technique.
Double shed technique：Graphene Polyamide Yarns easy tos produce electrostatic, and when weaving will reduce graphene Polyamide Yarns to the greatest extent
With the friction of heddle eyelet, graphene Polyamide Yarns and illusion-colour silk, therefore use double shed, by graphene Polyamide Yarns stroke of harness frames
Adjusting block moves down two lattice, and the traverse of graphene Polyamide Yarns heald frame is made to increase, and forms double shed, on the one hand reduces photic
The friction of discoloration viscose filament yarn and Polyamide Yarns, avoids the generation of electrostatic；It is clear that another aspect shed open is easy, advantageous to wefting insertion.
Back beam height：The back rest in selection, back beam height 95mm, two-layer fabric production, when weaving back weft, top line
It is easy, to influence shed open clarity, therefore the back rest is moved down when production, increase the tension of top line, reduce
The sinking of top line, it is clearly advantageous to shed open.
Weft insertion technique：Send sword into when sword be 80 °, connect latitude sword move back the sword time be 280 °.When this fabric produces, select evening into sword
Technique, select evening into sword technique there are two aspects the reason of, when fabric through close big, shed open is not easy clearly, second is that this fabric
When production, since the initial modulus of two kinds of warp thread is low, yarn is easy elongation, thus uses medium warp tension technique, upper machine
Power is small, and shed open is not easy clearly.Shed open is unintelligible to easy to produce three jump faults, using evening into sword technique, when sword head is into shed open, shuttle
Mouth effective height is big, can reduce the generation of three jump faults to the maximum extent.
Warp tension：Using medium warp tension, the elongation of organizine is reduced to the greatest extent, since warp thread radical is more, thus
Respectively configure the tension weight of a 5kg on the tension weight hammer stem of both sides, the position of weight can partially after machine some, reduce fabric
Warp tension.
The chucking power of bringer sword：Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn are compared with spun yarn, and all smoothers is being sent
It is easy to slip in the jaw of latitude sword, therefore in production process, to increase the chucking power of bringer sword jaw.Under mobile bringer sword jaw
The sponge of side, thus it is possible to vary the size of the chucking power of jaw.
The chucking power of weft accumulator spring leaf：Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn all smoothers are easy to rouse in yarn storage
Upper knocking over, therefore the chucking power of weft accumulator spring leaf is increased when production, Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn are avoided as possible
Knocking over.
Weft Insertion:Since Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn are easy to slip from bringer sword jaw, wefting insertion
Tension wants small.When tram passes through weft examining device, it not pass through presser bar, reduce Weft Insertion.
3. the trimmed size of fabric：
The Fabric width of fabric is 144cm, finished product through it is close be 684/10cm, finished product filling density is 474/10cm, is arranged
Width shrinkage is 6.5%, and it is 3% to arrange long shrinkage, is 6.7% through crimp, and latitude crimp is 3.8%.
Technology point in the present invention is：This functional fabric, fabric tissue is complicated, and difficulty of weaving is big：(1) using anti-
Weave reduces the rubbing machine meeting of Polyamide Yarns, the generation of minimizing electrostatic；(2) technological design when with low speed, subtract elongation, protect elasticity
For basic technology principle；(3) through close big, shed open is not easy clearly, by double shed, to reduce the friction between warp thread, improve
Shed open clarity；(4) Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn smoother are easy when wefting insertion to slip in shed open, pass through increasing
Add the chucking power of bringer sword jaw, reduce Weft Insertion technique, prevents Polyamide Yarns and illusion-colour silk from slipping；(5) the medium back rest is used
Highly, the sinking of top line is reduced.By above series of process measure, many technologies solved in production process are difficult
Topic has ensured being smoothed out for production.
Claims (6)
1. a kind of functional double-deck open-work fabric, it is characterised in that：The functional double-deck open-work fabric, double-layered structure, thoroughly
Hole tissue is combined together, inner layer blind hole when the open-work of surface layer, and surface layer blind hole, forms a kind of stereochemical structure face when inner layer open-work
Material；Functional different fiber is respectively adopted from inner layer on the surface layer of fabric simultaneously：
The surface layer：
Warp thread：A kind of photochromic viscose filament yarn A, 150D/72F；
Weft yarn：A kind of photochromic viscose filament yarn color spot silk, staple fiber interruption, which is coated on long filament, forms color spot, wherein：It is photic
The viscose filament yarn B that changes colour is 150D/72F；Color spot is coloured viscose staple fibre, and color spot is distributed as：Length 35mm, rugosity 30%,
Spacing is：200、300、600、450、250mm；
Photochromic viscose filament yarn A, photochromic viscose filament yarn B can be the same or different；
Color spot：The FA311 types drawing frame of Blowing carding → bis- → FA458 type fly frames；
Color spot silk：FA507 types spinning frame → village field NO.21C automatic winders；
Blowing carding：Cotton strip quantity is 21g/5m, speed 150m/min；
Two draftings：Quantification of 18.5g/5m, speed 350m/min；
Rove：Quantification of 4.0g/10m, ingot speed 1100r/min；
Spun yarn：Ingot speed is 15000r/min, and twist factor is designed as 280；
Winder：Speed is 1200m/min；
The inner layer：
Warp thread：Graphene chinlon filament, 150D/72F, wherein：The graphene content of fiber is 0.2-2%；
Weft yarn：Graphene chinlon filament and Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber long filament and twisted filament, Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber content 15-50%, wherein：Graphite
The graphene content of alkene chinlon filament fiber is 0.2-2%；Graphene chinlon filament is 100D/36F, and Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber long filament is
50D/24F, twist factor 200-350；
Graphene chinlon filament, Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber long filament：First pass through GD102 types Twistless Silk Doubling and silk, then with TZ326 type chemical fibres
Two-for-one twister carries out double twisting；
Doubling winder：Speed is 250m/min；
Two-for-one twister：Ingot speed is 8500r/min, and twist factor is designed as 240.
2. a kind of production technology of the functional double-deck open-work fabric according to claim 1, it is characterised in that：Including as follows
Step：
(1) whole slurry
The intelligent sizing warper production of XZJ300 types is selected, bobbin cradle capacity is 1680, and it is 250m/ that highest, which starches silk speed,
min；
This fabric warp has two kinds of graphene Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn, their requirements to slurry are different, two kinds
Warp thread needs independent warping, after the completion of warping sizing, then is merged by warp rebeaming machine；
The warping of graphene Polyamide Yarns：Graphene Polyamide Yarns one spends 72, and full width 68 is spent, and it is 4896 to add up to radical, bobbin cradle
Capacity be 1680, be made into 3 warp beams, with axis be 1632*3；
Slurry silk speed is 180m/min, and formula of size is：PAM slurries 65%, PVA205MB 30%, antistatic agent SN 3%,
JFC 2%；The rate of sizing of graphene Polyamide Yarns is 8%, and regain control is 3.5%, using low temperature starching, single single pressure work of leaching
Skill；
Using low temperature starching technique, slurry groove temperature is controlled at 35 DEG C -45 DEG C, and stock tank no longer heats slurries, the temperature of stock tank
Degree is controlled by the temperature of slurries in mixing cirtern；
The warping of photochromic viscose filament yarn：The radical of photochromic viscose filament yarn as the radical of graphene Polyamide Yarns,
It it is 4896, side yarn is 48, selects the cotton yarn of 18tex as side yarn；Photochromic viscose filament yarn is made into 3 axis, per 16, axis
Side yarn is 1648*3 with axis per the yarn at each 8；
Slurry silk speed is 45m/min, and formula of size is：Converted starch 70%, PVA205MB slurries 30%；Rate of sizing control exists
11%, regain is controlled in 9%-10%；
The tension of both when warping is controlled in 23cN；
(2) and axis
Using KB30 warp rebeaming machines, and axle speed is 60m/min, and after axis with leased line by graphene Polyamide Yarns and photochromic
Viscose filament yarn separates, and work of conveniently gaiting takes yarn；
(3) denting
It is gaited using subregion, photochromic viscose filament yarn is through proparea, comprehensive using 1-8 pages, and graphene Polyamide Yarns is through back zone, makes
Comprehensive with 9-16 pages, ground tissue, which is gaited, is sequentially：(1,9,2,10,1,9,3,11,4,12,3,11) * 6, (5,13,6,14,5,13,
7,15,8,16,7,15) * 6, enter per reed 3；
(4) it weaves：
GA747 rapier looms are selected to weave, loom rotating speed is 190r/min；
Opening time：Opening time is determined as 280 °；
Double shed technique：Graphene Polyamide Yarns stroke of harness frames adjusting block is moved down two lattice, makes stone using double shed
The traverse of black alkene Polyamide Yarns heald frame increases, and forms double shed；
Back beam height：The back rest in selection, back beam height 95mm, when production, move down the back rest, increase the tension of top line,
Reduce the sinking of top line, it is clearly advantageous to shed open；
Weft insertion technique：Send sword into when sword be 80 °, connect latitude sword move back the sword time be 280 °；
Warp tension：Using medium warp tension, the tension weight of a 5kg is respectively configured on the tension weight hammer stem of both sides, weight
Some, reduce the warp tension of fabric after the inclined machine in position of hammer；
The chucking power of bringer sword：Graphene Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn are compared with spun yarn, all smoothers,
It is easy to slip in the jaw of bringer sword, therefore in production process, to increase the chucking power of bringer sword jaw, mobile bringer sword jaw
The sponge of lower section, thus it is possible to vary the size of the chucking power of jaw；
The chucking power of weft accumulator spring leaf：Graphene Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn all smoothers, are easy in yarn storage
Knocking on drum, therefore the chucking power of weft accumulator spring leaf is increased when production, avoid Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose glue long as possible
The knocking over of silk；
Weft Insertion：Since Polyamide Yarns and photochromic viscose filament yarn are easy to slip from bringer sword jaw, Weft Insertion
It wants small, when tram passes through weft examining device, not pass through presser bar, reduce Weft Insertion.
3. the production technology of the functional double-deck open-work fabric according to claim 2, it is characterised in that：The textile
Selection：Nexine fabric woven warp thread selects 150D/72F graphene Polyamide Yarns, and it is 100D/36F that weft yarn, which selects graphene chinlon filament,
It is 50D/24F, twist factor 200-350 with Hydrophilic Polyester Fiber long filament；Top fabric woven, warp thread select 150D/72F photochromic viscous
Glue long filament is pink colour before discoloration, is sea blue color after discoloration, and weft yarn long filament selects the photochromic viscose filament yarns of 150D/72F, discoloration
Preceding is daffod after discoloration to be white, and color spot is red viscose staple fibre, and color spot is distributed as：Length 35mm, rugosity 30%,
Spacing is：200、300、600、450、250mm.
4. the production technology of the functional double-deck open-work fabric according to claim 2, it is characterised in that：The group of the fabric
Knit design：Fabric tissue selects the double-deck mock leno weave, and textura epidermoidea, open-work and plain cloth are alternately present；Inner layer tissue, same to table
Layer tissue is the same, and open-work and plain weave are alternately present；Inner layer is organized as plain weave when textura epidermoidea's open-work, surface layer when inner layer tissue open-work
It is organized as plain weave；Table warp, back warp press 1:1 arrangement；Weft yarn arrangement is：[(outer weft 1, outer weft 2) * 6, binding pick], the face of binding pick
Color will be selected to be close or identical with outer weft, back weft.
5. the production technology of the functional double-deck open-work fabric according to claim 2, it is characterised in that：The fabric of fabric is advised
Lattice, fabric breadth 154cm, fabric through it is close be 640/10cm, fabric filling density is 460/10cm, upper machine reed width 160cm, porter
205 teeth/10cm, 48, side yarn, full width total quantity of warps 9840, a flower recurring number is 144, and full width 68 is spent, and ground tissue is per reed 3
Enter, Selvage Stitch enters per reed 2.
6. the production technology of the functional double-deck open-work fabric according to claim 2, it is characterised in that：The fabric at
Product specification：The Fabric width of fabric is 144cm, finished product through it is close be 684/10cm, finished product filling density is 474/10cm, arranges width
Shrinkage is 6.5%, and it is 3% to arrange long shrinkage, is 6.7% through crimp, and latitude crimp is 3.8%.
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| CN109371529B (en) * | 2018-12-19 | 2020-08-04 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | Design and preparation method of double-layer functional fabric |
| CN109457362B (en) * | 2018-12-29 | 2021-05-11 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | Design method and production process of cool moisture-conducting and sweat-releasing fabric |
| CN110029423A (en) * | 2019-04-15 | 2019-07-19 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | A kind of woven running takes the design method and production technology of fabric |
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| CN103057176A (en) * | 2011-10-20 | 2013-04-24 | 卞平芳 | Fish-scale type fabric with relatively high serviceability |
| CN203373492U (en) * | 2013-04-29 | 2014-01-01 | 海宁市天一纺织有限公司 | A double-layer openwork weave fabric |
| CN104357936A (en) * | 2014-08-12 | 2015-02-18 | 新乡化纤股份有限公司 | Photochromic viscose fiber and preparation method thereof |
| CN105568501A (en) * | 2016-02-19 | 2016-05-11 | 太仓市虹鹰印花有限公司 | Color-variable nylon-polyester peach fabric |
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| US8486847B2 (en) * | 2007-03-09 | 2013-07-16 | The Hong Kong Polytechnic University | Fabric simulating the plant structure for moisture management |
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| CN103057176A (en) * | 2011-10-20 | 2013-04-24 | 卞平芳 | Fish-scale type fabric with relatively high serviceability |
| CN203373492U (en) * | 2013-04-29 | 2014-01-01 | 海宁市天一纺织有限公司 | A double-layer openwork weave fabric |
| CN104357936A (en) * | 2014-08-12 | 2015-02-18 | 新乡化纤股份有限公司 | Photochromic viscose fiber and preparation method thereof |
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Effective date of registration: 20190509 Address after: 226000 Tongzhou District, Nantong City, Jiangsu Province Patentee after: Nantong North Bank Textile Technology Co., Ltd. Address before: 226000 No. 87 Youth Middle Road, Nantong City, Jiangsu Province Patentee before: Jiangsu Engineering Vocational College |