CN114657673B - Local weft three-dimensional tubular woven fabric and weaving method thereof - Google Patents
Local weft three-dimensional tubular woven fabric and weaving method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN114657673B CN114657673B CN202210186590.6A CN202210186590A CN114657673B CN 114657673 B CN114657673 B CN 114657673B CN 202210186590 A CN202210186590 A CN 202210186590A CN 114657673 B CN114657673 B CN 114657673B
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Classifications
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D3/00—Woven fabrics characterised by their shape
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a local weft three-dimensional tubular woven fabric and a weaving method thereof, wherein the local weft three-dimensional tubular woven fabric comprises a tubular starting weaving part and a double-layer weaving part, the double-layer weaving part is positioned at two ends of the tubular starting weaving part in the warp direction, and the double-layer weaving part comprises a surface layer weaving part and an inner layer weaving part; wherein the surface woven parts on two sides are connected with the tubular woven part to form a weft tube surface layer; the inner woven parts on two sides are connected into a weft pipe inner layer; the surface layer of the weft pipe and the inner layer of the weft pipe are enclosed to form a three-dimensional pipe shape. The double-layer structure is respectively connected to two sides of the starting pipe, the surface layer of the double-layer structure and the surface layer of the weft-wise tubular structure form the surface layer of the weft pipe together, and the inner layer of the double-layer structure is sunk below the weft pipe of the fabric to form the inner layer of the weft pipe, so that the weft-wise tubular shape is changed into a nearly circular shape due to the fact that the double-layer structure is originally standing on the cloth cover from an oval shape, and the manufactured tubular shape is full and more tangible.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of textiles, and particularly relates to a local weft three-dimensional tubular woven fabric and a weaving method thereof.
Background
The home textile decoration textile with beautifying and decorating effects on living environment is mainly embodied by colors, patterns, styles, textures and the like of the textile. Conventionally, for example, home textile decoration textiles such as ladies bags, hats, pillow bags, and in-car curtains are used, and most of the used common plane fabrics with strong decoration sense are also made of weft tubular fabrics with novel, unique and three-dimensional effects by a small amount of products.
Hereinafter, a weft-wise tubular fabric is disclosed according to literature (Wang Huiling. Woven fabric design and development of partial tube-filled functional particles), as shown in fig. 1; and, document (20319, backing. Design and production of weft tubular fabrics) discloses weft tubular fabrics, as shown in fig. 2. In the weft tubular fabric structure shown in fig. 1, no matter where the tube is arranged in a plain weave, the tube is arranged on the basis of the plain weave, every other warp yarn, and a warp floating long yarn is designed on the back surface of the fabric. In the side sectional view of the functional fabric shown in fig. 2, warp yarns and weft yarns at the tubular structure are interwoven according to a two-over-two-under-reinforcement twill weave rule, and the other group of warp yarns are positioned at the reverse side of the tubular structure and also exist in the form of floating long yarns. The plane structure of the fabric also adopts plain weave.
Patent document CN106854790 discloses a process for producing a weft tubular fabric. The invention divides the warp into the ground warp and the rising warp, only the rising warp interweaves with the weft at the weft rising, and the ground warp forms the warp floating length at the back surface of the fabric. The double-shaft weaving of the GA747 rapier loom is utilized, the weaving port is moved backwards by lifting the supporting head of the coiling mechanism, the weft yarn slides on the warp floating long thread, the warp floating long thread on the back surface of the fabric is compressed, and the front surface of the fabric bulges to form a weft-wise pipe.
The common characteristic of the above weft tubular fabric structures is that the weave at the tubular structure is plain weave or two-over-two-under-reinforcing twill weave, whereas the warp yarns, regardless of the pick, are shown under the weft in the form of floating long yarns. The weft tubular formed by the structure finally presents a slightly flat ellipse standing on the cloth cover, if the beating-up force is smaller, the floating length line below the weft tube is not easy to shorten, so that the weft tube is easy to loose and collapse. The beating-up force in the prior art is smaller, and the weft tube displays the front photo and the back photo of the loose and collapsed weft tubular fabric real object as shown in fig. 3 (a) and 3 (b).
Disclosure of Invention
This section is intended to outline some aspects of embodiments of the invention and to briefly introduce some preferred embodiments. Some simplifications or omissions may be made in this section as well as in the description summary and in the title of the application, to avoid obscuring the purpose of this section, the description summary and the title of the invention, which should not be used to limit the scope of the invention.
The present invention has been made in view of the above and/or problems occurring in the prior art.
One of the purposes of the invention is to provide a local weft three-dimensional tubular woven fabric which has unique structure, novel appearance, harmonious color matching, three-dimensional plump protruding tubular shape and good shaping and is mainly applied to home textile decoration textiles.
In order to solve the technical problems, the invention provides the following technical scheme: a local weft three-dimensional tubular woven fabric comprises,
a tube-drawing part;
the double-layer weaving part is positioned at two ends of the warp direction of the tubular weaving part and comprises a surface layer weaving part and a inner layer weaving part;
wherein the surface woven parts on two sides are connected with the tubular woven part to form a weft tube surface layer; the inner woven parts on two sides are connected into a weft pipe inner layer; the surface layer of the weft pipe and the inner layer of the weft pipe are enclosed to form a three-dimensional pipe shape.
As a preferred embodiment of the partial weft three-dimensional tubular woven fabric and the weaving method thereof of the present invention, wherein: the inner layer weaving part is formed by interweaving inner weft yarns and inner warp yarns, and the inner weft yarns of the inner layer weaving part at the two ends of the warp direction of the tubular weaving part are interweaved by the same inner warp yarn;
the surface layer weaving part is formed by surface weft yarns and surface warp yarns which are interwoven with each other, and the surface weft yarns of the surface layer weaving parts at the two ends of the warp direction of the tubular weaving part are interwoven with the same surface warp yarns;
wherein the surface warp yarns interweave with the pick-up weft yarns to form the pick-up weave portion.
As a preferred embodiment of the partial weft three-dimensional tubular woven fabric and the weaving method thereof of the present invention, wherein: the number of inner wefts is less than the sum of the number of outer wefts and the number of tube wefts.
As a preferred embodiment of the partial weft three-dimensional tubular woven fabric and the weaving method thereof of the present invention, wherein: the number of the inner weft yarns is the same as the number of the surface weft yarns;
the number of the tube lifting weft yarns is 2-16.
As a preferred embodiment of the partial weft three-dimensional tubular woven fabric and the weaving method thereof of the present invention, wherein: the surface warp yarns and the inner warp yarns are staggered according to the proportion of 1:1.
As a preferred embodiment of the partial weft three-dimensional tubular woven fabric and the weaving method thereof of the present invention, wherein: the double-layer weaving part is positioned on the outer side of the double-layer weaving part;
wherein the base weave portion is formed by interweaving the face warp yarns, the back warp yarns, and the base weft yarns.
As a preferred embodiment of the partial weft three-dimensional tubular woven fabric and the weaving method thereof of the present invention, wherein: the warp density of the basic weaving part is twice that of the tubular weaving part.
As a preferred embodiment of the partial weft three-dimensional tubular woven fabric and the weaving method thereof of the present invention, wherein: the surface weft yarns and the starting weft yarns are pre-woven dyed yarns with different colors.
As a preferred embodiment of the partial weft three-dimensional tubular woven fabric and the weaving method thereof of the present invention, wherein: the tubular-starting weave portion and the basic weave portion are one of a plain weave, a twill weave and the like.
It is another object of the present invention to provide a method of weaving a partial weft three-dimensional tubular woven fabric, comprising,
providing a tubular lifting part;
providing a double layer weave portion;
the double-layer weaving parts are respectively connected to two sides of the warp direction of the tubular weaving part, and the surface layer weaving parts of the double-layer weaving parts on two sides are connected with the tubular weaving part to form a weft surface layer; the inner woven parts of the double woven parts at two sides are connected with each other to form a weft tube inner layer;
wherein the surface layer weaving part and the tubular weaving part of the double-layer weaving parts at two sides are interwoven by the same warp yarn; the inner woven parts of the double woven parts at two sides are interwoven by the same warp yarn.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
the fabric has novel appearance, harmonious color matching, good stereo forming of the bulge tube shape, certain visual impact sense, fastness and durability, difficult deformation of the bulge weft tube shape tappet and capability of highlighting the unique style. The product of the invention is mainly used for home textile decoration textile, can be also applied to clothing textile, and has good social and economic benefits.
Drawings
In order to more clearly illustrate the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention, the drawings that are needed in the description of the embodiments will be briefly described below, it being obvious that the drawings in the following description are only some embodiments of the present invention, and that other drawings may be obtained according to these drawings without inventive effort for a person skilled in the art. Wherein:
fig. 1 is a schematic view of a prior art weft tubular fabric structure.
Fig. 2 is a schematic side cross-sectional view of a functional fabric of the prior art.
FIG. 3 is a photograph of a prior art weft tubular fabric; wherein, (a) is a front photograph of the weft tubular fabric and (b) is a back photograph of the weft tubular fabric.
Fig. 4 is a schematic view of the structure of the weft tubular fabric of the present invention.
Fig. 5 is a perspective view of fig. 4.
Fig. 6 is a schematic structural design of the weft tubular fabric of the present invention.
Fig. 7 is a weave pattern of a weft tubular fabric according to an embodiment of the invention.
Fig. 8 is a photograph of an embodiment of the present invention showing a weft tubular fabric.
Detailed Description
In order that the above-recited objects, features and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent, a more particular description of the invention will be rendered by reference to specific embodiments thereof which are illustrated in the appended drawings.
In the following description, numerous specific details are set forth in order to provide a thorough understanding of the present invention, but the present invention may be practiced in other ways other than those described herein, and persons skilled in the art will readily appreciate that the present invention is not limited to the specific embodiments disclosed below.
Further, reference herein to "one embodiment" or "an embodiment" means that a particular feature, structure, or characteristic can be included in at least one implementation of the invention. The appearances of the phrase "in one embodiment" in various places in the specification are not necessarily all referring to the same embodiment, nor are separate or alternative embodiments mutually exclusive of other embodiments.
In describing the present invention, the direction is determined as follows. "warp direction" refers to the direction in which warp yarns, which constitute the fabric, extend from among warp yarns and weft yarns when the fabric is viewed in the thickness direction. The "weft direction" refers to a direction in which the weft extends when the fabric is viewed in the thickness direction. The "front side" refers to the side of the fabric in the thickness direction, which is the paper side in the drawing, and more specifically, the side of the surface that can be seen. The "back side" refers to the other side in the thickness direction of the fabric, which is the back side of the paper surface in the drawing, and more specifically, the side of the surface that is not visible.
The partial weft three-dimensional tubular woven fabric according to the first embodiment of the present invention is woven by a loom, in which a base weave portion 300, a double weave portion 200, a tubular start weave portion 100, and a double weave portion 200 are sequentially arranged in the warp direction and circulated. In other words, the partial weft three-dimensional tubular woven fabric of the present embodiment is provided with double woven parts 200 at both ends in the warp direction, a connected tubular woven part 100 is provided between the two double woven parts 200, and a base woven part 300 is provided at the outer side of the two double woven parts 200 in the warp direction. Hereinafter, the tubular woven portion 100 and the double woven portion 200 are discussed in detail.
The tubular-starting portion 100 is a single-layer weave structure, which means a weave in which one layer of warp yarns and one layer of weft yarns are formed with each other. The single layer weave may be any weave, such as plain weave, twill weave, and the like, as is conventional.
The double layer weave portion 200 is a warp and weft double layer weave, which is a fabric having two layers of warp and weft yarns.
In double weave portion 200, the weft yarns include a top weft yarn 201a and a bottom weft yarn 202a, and the warp yarns include a top warp yarn 201b and a bottom warp yarn 202b; the surface weft yarn 201a and the surface warp yarn 201b interweave with each other to form the surface woven portion 201, and the inner weft yarn 202a and the inner warp yarn 202b interweave with each other to form the inner woven portion 202.
The extra surface warp yarn 201b interweaves with the pick up weft yarn 100a in a direction away from the base weave portion 300 to form the pick up weave portion 100;
wherein the number of the inner wefts 202a is smaller than the sum of the number of the surface wefts 201a and the lift wefts 100a, thereby forming a weft-wise stereoscopic tube shape.
Specifically, in this embodiment, the number of inner wefts 202a is the same as the number of outer wefts 201a, and the number of pick-up wefts 100a is 2 to 16.
At this time, the surface woven portions 201 on both sides are connected to the tubular-starting woven portion 100 to form a weft surface N1; the inner woven parts 202 on two sides are connected into a weft pipe inner layer N2; the weft tube surface layer N1 and the weft tube inner layer N2 are enclosed to form a three-dimensional tube shape, so that the weft tube shape is changed into a nearly circular shape due to the fact that double-layer tissues are originally erected on the cloth cover in an elliptical shape, the difference between the height H and the width W is reduced, and the manufactured tube shape is full and more tangible.
The outer warp yarn 201b and the inner warp yarn 202b are staggered in a 1:1 ratio, whereby the warp density of the base weave portion 300 is twice that of the tubular-woven portion 100. The base weave portion 300 is formed by interweaving the front warp yarn 201b and the back warp yarn 202b with the base weft yarn 300 a.
The base weave portion 300 is also a single layer weave, and may be any weave, such as plain weave, twill weave, or other conventional techniques.
The specific weaving steps are performed according to the fabric weave diagram shown in fig. 7, and the physical photograph of the partial weft three-dimensional tubular woven fabric of the invention is shown in fig. 8, and the weaving method is as follows:
(1) Fiber raw material selection
The invention is mainly used for home textile decoration textiles with beautifying and decorating functions on living environment of human, and is mainly represented by colors, patterns, styles, textures and the like of the textiles, and the polyester fibers have the characteristics of high strength, high wear resistance and the like, and the polyester fabrics are bright in color, free of fading after being used for a long time, firm and durable, resistant to crease and form, durable in pleat, easy to wash and dry, light-resistant and corrosion-resistant and the like. So polyester yarns are selected.
(2) Color of
The embodiment of the invention is a weft tubular fabric with good tubular three-dimensional formability, and has harmonious color matching, fresh color and more beautiful outlook. The warp yarn is milk white warp yarn, and the color matching of the weft yarn is dark and light color matching. The ivory weft yarns and the ivory tube-starting warp yarns are interwoven in the weft tubular main body part, the ivory tubular shape is formed on the surface of the fabric, and grass green yarns are adopted in the beginning and ending parts (namely double-layer tissue parts) of the tube-starting of the weft tubular part, so that the color of the tube-starting root is more gorgeous, and the ivory weft tubes (main body parts) which are supported by lining are three-dimensional and plump.
(3) Fabric weave structure
A weft tubular fabric having excellent tubular three-dimensional formability is disclosed, which comprises a plurality of tube-lifting portions (weft three-dimensional tubes) and non-lifting portions (base fabric 300). The weft stereo tube uses a combination of a plain weave (yarn-raising portion 100) and a double weave (double weave portion 200), and the yarn-raising portion (yarn-raising portion 300) uses a plain weave.
For the formation condition of the weft tubular woven fabric, according to the weave structure design of the weft tubular woven fabric adopted by the invention, warp yarns are divided into a starting surface warp yarn and an inner warp yarn, the surface warp yarn and the inner warp yarn are arranged according to the proportion of 1:1, and the schematic diagram of the structure design of the weft tubular woven fabric of the embodiment of the invention is shown in fig. 6, wherein: arrow J indicates the warp direction of all yarns during weaving, arrow J1 indicates the pick-up top warp direction and arrow J2 indicates the in warp direction.
As can be seen from fig. 4, 5 and 6, the double-layer weave portion 200 is respectively connected to two sides of the tubular weave portion 100, the two side surface weave portions 201 of the double-layer weave portion 200 and the tubular weave portion 100 together form a weft pipe surface layer N1, the two side inner layer weave portions 202 and the inner warp 202b of the double-layer weave portion 200 are sunk under the weft pipe surface layer N1 in a warp floating long line form to form a weft pipe inner layer N2, so that the whole weft tubular form is changed into a nearly circular form due to the fact that the double-layer weave stands on the cloth cover from the weft tubular form of the prior art, the three-dimensional formability of the manufactured tubular form is good, the weft Guan Gao degrees H is reduced, the width W is increased, and the manufactured tubular form is full and tangible.
The weft interval a in fig. 6 is determined by the size of the weave repeat of the base weave portion 300; the weft pipe spacing a is small, adjacent weft stereo pipes are abutted against each other, but the weft pipe spacing a is not too small, the weft stereo pipes are easy to flatten, and a full circle cannot be formed; too large a weft tube distance a is not suitable, and the too large weft tube distance a influences the beauty of the fabric. The weft direction Guan Gao degrees H and width W are determined by the size of the weave loops of the initiating tubular portion 100 and the double woven portion 200, and are also material dependent.
Fig. 7 is a weave in which 4 warp yarns repeat the same weaving process for 24 weft yarns.
Wherein, the 4 warp yarns are respectively a surface warp yarn 201b-1 (warp yarn I), a back warp yarn 202b-1 (warp yarn II), a surface warp yarn 201b-2 (warp yarn III) and a back warp yarn 202b-2 (warp yarn IV) which are sequentially arranged from the left side to the right side of the drawing, and are repeatedly arranged in this order.
The 24 weft yarns are respectively 8 base weft yarns 300a (1-8 weft yarns), 4 double-layer weave weft yarns (9-12 weft yarns), 8 lifting weft yarns 100a (13-20 weft yarns) and 4 double-layer weave weft yarns (21-24 weft yarns) which are distributed in sequence from the upper side to the lower side of the drawing, and are repeatedly arranged in the sequence; wherein, 4 double layer weave weft yarns are respectively an inner weft yarn 202a-2 (weft yarns No. 9 and No. 21), a surface weft yarn 201a-2 (weft yarns No. 10 and No. 22), an inner weft yarn 202a-1 (weft yarns No. 11 and No. 23) and a surface weft yarn 201a-1 (weft yarns No. 12 and No. 24) which are sequentially arranged from the upper side to the lower side of the drawing, and the double layer weaving parts 200 at two sides are arranged in the same way.
As shown in fig. 7, a plain weave of a weft three-dimensional tube portion is formed at a tubular woven portion 100 in the drawing, and a warp weave is indicated by "+#", and weft weave points are not generally identified in the weave drawing. The double weave portion 200 is composed of a surface layer and a back layer, respectively, and has 2 portions in total. The weave of the surface warp and the surface weft in the double weave portion 200 is denoted by the symbol "# and the weave of the inner warp and the inner weft is denoted by the symbol" #. "O" indicates that the surface warp yarn is lifted when the weft yarn is woven. At base weave portion 300, the weave of warp yarns intersecting with weft yarns is indicated by the symbol "■". The weaving of the plain weave portion base weave portion 300 is started by the outer and inner exchanges when the outer and inner warps are interwoven with the weft yarns at the two ends of the double weave portion 200, regardless of the positions.
In the specific weaving process, the weave pattern shown in fig. 7 is woven from top to bottom. After the start of weaving, the warp yarn I201 b-1 and warp yarn III 201b-2 are woven crosswise so as to be layered on the front side of the base weft yarn 2, 4, 6, 8 and layered on the back side of the base weft yarn 300a 1, 3, 5, 7; the inner warp yarns 202b-1 and 202b-2 are interwoven so as to be layered on the front side of the base weft yarns 300a 1, 3, 5, and 7 and layered on the back side of the base weft yarns 300a 2, 4, 6, and 8; the same weaving method is repeated to weave the base weave portion 300 forming a plain weave structure.
Next, the I-type weft yarn 201b-1 is woven crosswise with respect to the inner side of the 10-type weft yarn 201a-2 and with respect to the 12-type weft yarn 201a-1, and the III-type weft yarn 201b-2 is woven crosswise with respect to the inner side of the 10-type weft yarn 201a-2 and with respect to the 12-type weft yarn 201 a-1; the No. II weft yarn 202b-1 is interwoven so as to be layered on the inner side of the No. 9 weft yarn 202a-2 and layered on the outer side of the No. 11 weft yarn 202a-1, and the No. IV weft yarn 202b-2 is interwoven so as to be layered on the outer side of the No. 9 weft yarn 202a-2 and layered on the inner side of the No. 11 weft yarn 202 a-1; wherein, when weft yarn 202a-2 in 9 and weft yarn 202a-1 in 11 are woven, warp yarn 201b-1 in I and warp yarn 201b-2 in III are lifted and not interwoven with them; the same weaving process is repeated to weave a double weave portion 200 on one side.
Next, the No. i surface warp yarn 201b-1 is woven crosswise so as to be laminated on the back side of the No. 13, 15, 17, 19 pick-up weft yarn 100a and on the front side of the No. 14, 16, 18, 20 pick-up weft yarn 100 a; III gauge warp yarn 201b-2 is woven crosswise so as to be laminated on the front side of pickup weft yarn 100a of Nos. 13, 15, 17 and 19 and on the back side of pickup weft yarn 100a of Nos. 14, 16, 18 and 20, and pickup woven portion 100 is formed by repeating the same weaving method; the inner warp yarns 202b-1 and 202b-2 do not interweave with the pick 100 a.
Next, the I-type weft yarn 201b-1 is woven crosswise with respect to the 22-type weft yarn 201a-2 and with respect to the 24-type weft yarn 201a-1, and the III-type weft yarn 201b-2 is woven crosswise with respect to the 22-type weft yarn 201a-2 and with respect to the 24-type weft yarn 201 a-1;
the II weft yarn 202b-1 is directly stacked on the inner side of the 21 weft yarn 202a-2 and on the outer side of the 23 weft yarn 202a-1, and the IV weft yarn 202b-2 is crossly woven in a manner of being stacked on the outer side of the 21 weft yarn 202a-2 and on the inner side of the 23 weft yarn 202 a-1; wherein, when weft yarn 202a-2 in 21 and weft yarn 202a-1 in 23 are woven, warp yarn 201b-1 in I and warp yarn 201b-2 in III are lifted and not interwoven with each other, and the double weaving portion 200 on the other side is woven by repeating the same weaving method.
Because the weft densities of the tubular fabric portion 100, the double layer fabric portion 200 and the base fabric portion 300 of the fabric are not uniform, the selvedge adopts a 2/2 warp balance weave in order to avoid the scallop edge.
(4) Weaving process parameters
The yarn is 29.5tex multiplied by 2 polyester yarns, the warp yarn is milky white, the tube-starting weft yarn 100a is milky white, the basic weft yarn 300a is purple red, the weft yarn at the double-layer structure connected with the warp yarn and the basic weft yarn is grass green, and the weft yarns are arranged from top to bottom to form 8 basic weft yarns 300a, 4 double-layer structure weft yarns, 8 tube-starting weft yarns 100a and 4 double-layer structure weft yarns; since only the surface warp yarn 201b interweaves with the pick up weft yarn 100a, the warp density is half that of the pick up portion. The drafting method adopts a forward drafting method, the reed number is 100 teeth/10 cm, and each reed enters 2.
(5) Weaving process
Warp feeding tension and warp feeding quantity control: the weaving experiment is carried out on an SGA598 type small sample loom (a general source spinning machine Co., ltd.) which has an automatic shedding function, but 4 operations of weft insertion, beating-up, reeling and let-off are manual, and because the small sample loom is not provided with a double-beam weaving and special let-off reeling mechanism, the ground warp and the let-off warp are required to be fixed independently, and the tension of the ground warp and the let-off warp is regulated by hanging weights with different qualities on the warp so as to achieve the weaving conditions of stopping, stopping and rapid let-off, thereby finishing weaving. The inner warp is normally bound after the loom, and the outer warp 201b is suspended from the water bottle (the weight can be changed by increasing or decreasing the water amount) and suspended from the last heald frame suspension on the loom by the braiding belt (here page 16). As the forward wearing method is adopted during the drafting, the pattern card is the same as the organization chart and is shown in fig. 7. During weaving, the 16 th column of the pattern card, which is located on the longitudinal length of the tubular weaving part 100, is filled, which means that the last-page heald frame is lifted during weft insertion during weaving, and the bottle is lifted correspondingly, wherein the warp feeding amount of the surface warp yarn 201b is larger than that of the inner warp yarn 202b, and the last-page heald frame is not lifted when the 16 th column is not marked, and the surface warp yarn 201b is normally woven under the action of the gravity warp yarn tension of the bottle (the warp feeding amount of the inner warp yarn 202b is the same as that of the surface warp yarn 201 b). Note that the tension of the top warp yarn 201b is less than the tension of the bottom warp yarn 202b during the pick-up (note that the tension of the top warp yarn 201b must not be too low to prevent disharmony), and that the tension of the bottom warp yarn 202b and the top warp yarn 201b remain as consistent as possible during pick-up, so that the plain weave (base weave portion 300) of the weft tubular fabric remains flat.
Control of beating-up force: in the weaving process, except for controlling the tension of warp yarns, the beating-up force is controlled, the beating-up force of the non-tubular part is normal, the beating-up force of the weft-tubular part is increased and kept consistent, the surface layer inner layer of the weft-tubular part is respectively a part of the weft-tubular part due to the existence of the double-layer organization structure of the two parts, and therefore, warp floating long yarns sinking to the back surface of the tubular part are easier to be beaten up and compressed, and the weft-tubular three-dimensional forming is good as same as the normal yarn interweaving condition.
It should be noted that the above embodiments are only for illustrating the technical solution of the present invention and not for limiting the same, and although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood by those skilled in the art that the technical solution of the present invention may be modified or substituted without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solution of the present invention, which is intended to be covered in the scope of the claims of the present invention.
Claims (1)
1. A weaving method of a local weft three-dimensional tubular woven fabric is characterized in that: comprising the steps of (a) a step of,
providing a tubular part (100);
providing a double weave portion (200);
the double-layer weaving parts (200) are respectively connected to two sides of the warp direction of the tubular weaving part (100), and the surface layer weaving parts (201) of the double-layer weaving parts (200) on two sides are connected with the weft tube surface layer (N1) formed by the tubular weaving part (100); the inner layer weaving parts (202) of the double-layer weaving parts (200) at two sides are connected with each other to form a weft pipe inner layer (N2);
wherein the surface layer woven part (201) of the double-layer woven part (200) at two sides and the tubular woven part (100) are interwoven by the same warp; the inner layer weaving parts (202) of the double-layer weaving parts (200) at two sides are interwoven by the same warp yarn;
when weaving, weaving the tissue diagram from top to bottom; after the weaving starts, the I-type surface warp yarn (201 b-1) and the III-type surface warp yarn (201 b-2) are crosswise woven in a manner of being laminated on the front side of the 2, 4, 6 and 8-type basic weft yarn (300 a) and being laminated on the back side of the 1, 3, 5 and 7-type basic weft yarn (300 a); the No. II warp yarn (202 b-1) and the No. IV warp yarn (202 b-2) are crosswise woven so as to be laminated on the front side of the No. 1, 3, 5 and 7 base weft yarn (300 a) and on the back side of the No. 2, 4, 6 and 8 base weft yarn (300 a); a base weave portion (300) which is woven to form a plain weave structure by repeating the same weaving method;
next, the No. I warp yarn (201 b-1) is woven crosswise with respect to the inside of the No. 10 weft yarn (201 a-2) and with respect to the outside of the No. 12 weft yarn (201 a-1), and the No. III warp yarn (201 b-2) is woven crosswise with respect to the outside of the No. 10 weft yarn (201 a-2) and with respect to the inside of the No. 12 weft yarn (201 a-1); the No. II weft yarn (202 b-1) is crossly woven in a manner of being laminated on the inner side of the No. 9 weft yarn (202 a-2) and on the outer side of the No. 11 weft yarn (202 a-1), and the No. IV weft yarn (202 b-2) is crossly woven in a manner of being laminated on the outer side of the No. 9 weft yarn (202 a-2) and on the inner side of the No. 11 weft yarn (202 a-1); wherein, when the No. 9 weft yarn (202 a-2) and the No. 11 weft yarn (202 a-1) are woven, the No. I warp yarn (201 b-1) and the No. III warp yarn (201 b-2) are lifted and are not interwoven with the warp yarns; weaving by repeating the same weaving method to form a double-layer weaving part (200) on one side;
next, the warp yarn No. i (201 b-1) is woven crosswise so as to be laminated on the back side of the weft yarn No. 13, 15, 17, 19, and on the front side of the weft yarn No. 14, 16, 18, 20 (100 a); the III gauge warp yarn (201 b-2) is alternately woven in a manner of being laminated on the front side of the No. 13, 15, 17 and 19 gauge weft yarn (100 a) and on the back side of the No. 14, 16, 18 and 20 gauge weft yarn (100 a), and the same weaving method is repeated to weave and form a gauge portion (100); the inner warp yarns II (202 b-1) and IV (202 b-2) are not interwoven with the pick-up weft yarn 100 a;
next, the No. I warp yarn (201 b-1) is crossly woven so as to be laminated on the back side of the No. 22 weft yarn (201 a-2) and on the front side of the No. 24 weft yarn (201 a-1), and the No. III warp yarn (201 b-2) is crossly woven so as to be laminated on the front side of the No. 22 weft yarn (201 a-2) and on the back side of the No. 24 weft yarn (201 a-1);
the II-type back warp yarn (202 b-1) is directly overlapped on the inner side of the 21-type back weft yarn (202 a-2) and is overlapped on the surface side of the 23-type back weft yarn (202 a-1), and the IV-type back warp yarn (202 b-2) is crossly woven in a mode of being overlapped on the surface side of the 21-type back weft yarn (202 a-2) and is overlapped on the inner side of the 23-type back weft yarn (202 a-1); wherein, when the No. 21 weft back yarn (202 a-2) and the No. 23 weft back yarn (202 a-1) are woven, the No. I warp (201 b-1) and the No. III warp (201 b-2) are lifted and are not interweaved with each other, and the double-layer weaving part (200) on the other side is formed by repeating the same weaving method;
because the weft densities of the tubular knitting part (100), the double-layer knitting part (200) and the basic knitting part (300) of the fabric are not consistent, in order to avoid the lotus leaf edge, the cloth edge adopts a 2/2 warp balancing structure;
the yarns are 29.5tex multiplied by 2 polyester yarns, and the weft yarns are arranged into 8 basic weft yarns (300 a), 4 double-layer structure weft yarns, 8 starting weft yarns (100 a) and 4 double-layer structure weft yarns from top to bottom; because only the surface warp yarn (201 b) of the weft tube part is interwoven with the tube starting weft yarn (100 a), the warp density is half of that of the tube non-tube starting part; the drafting method adopts a forward drafting method, the reed number is 100 teeth/10 cm, and each reed is 2 in;
warp feeding tension and warp feeding quantity control: carrying out a weaving experiment on an SGA598 type small sample loom, independently fixing a ground warp and a tube-lifting warp, and adjusting the tension of the ground warp and the tube-lifting warp by suspending weights with different qualities on the warp so as to achieve the weaving conditions of stop-rolling, stop-feeding and rapid-feeding, thereby finishing weaving; the inner warp is bound after the loom according to the normal condition, the surface warp (201 b) is hung on a water bottle, and the weaving belt is hung on the hanging position of the last heald frame on the loom; because the forward threading method is adopted during drafting, the pattern card is the same as the organization chart; during weaving, the 16 th column on the longitudinal length of the tubular weaving part (100) on the pattern card is filled, the bottle is lifted correspondingly when the last heald frame is weft inserted during weaving, the warp feeding amount of the surface warp yarn (201 b) is larger than that of the inner warp yarn (202 b), the last heald frame is not lifted when the 16 th column is not marked, the surface warp yarn (201 b) is normally woven under the action of the gravity warp yarn tension of the bottle, and the warp feeding amount of the inner warp yarn (202 b) is the same as that of the surface warp yarn (201 b); note that the tension of the top warp yarn (201 b) is less than the tension of the bottom warp yarn (202 b) when the tube-lifting part is woven, and the tension of the bottom warp yarn (202 b) and the top warp yarn (201 b) is kept as consistent as possible when the tube-lifting part is not lifted, so that the plain cloth base weaving part (300) of the weft tubular fabric is kept flat;
control of beating-up force: in the weaving process, the beating-up force of the non-tubular part is normal, the beating-up force of the weft-knitted tubular part is required to be increased and kept consistent, and the inner layers of the surface layers of the weft-knitted tubular part are respectively a part of the weft-knitted tubular part due to the existence of the double-layer tissue structures of the two parts, so that warp-knitted floating long yarns sinking to the back surface of the tubular part are easier to be beaten up and compressed, and then the weft-knitted tubular part is shaped in a three-dimensional way as in the normal yarn interweaving condition.
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