CN112695444B - Waffle clothing fabric and production process thereof - Google Patents
Waffle clothing fabric and production process thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN112695444B CN112695444B CN202011493572.XA CN202011493572A CN112695444B CN 112695444 B CN112695444 B CN 112695444B CN 202011493572 A CN202011493572 A CN 202011493572A CN 112695444 B CN112695444 B CN 112695444B
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- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 10
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- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 9
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 claims description 7
- FAPWRFPIFSIZLT-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium chloride Chemical compound [Na+].[Cl-] FAPWRFPIFSIZLT-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 6
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000012224 working solution Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 230000003247 decreasing effect Effects 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- RYGMFSIKBFXOCR-UHFFFAOYSA-N Copper Chemical compound [Cu] RYGMFSIKBFXOCR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000009960 carding Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910052802 copper Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000010949 copper Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000007378 ring spinning Methods 0.000 claims description 4
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- 238000011378 penetrating method Methods 0.000 claims description 3
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- 239000011780 sodium chloride Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 claims description 3
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D21/00—Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
- D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/07—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof
- D06M11/11—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof with halogen acids or salts thereof
- D06M11/13—Ammonium halides or halides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/38—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
- D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
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- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a waffle clothing fabric and a production process thereof. The waffle garment fabric consists of a tight tissue and a loose tissue; the tight tissue adopts plain weave, and the loose tissue comprises longitude and latitude float long lines, and the tight tissue and the loose tissue are gradually transited and arranged alternately. The tight weave of the invention adopts plain weave, has more interweaving points, short floating long lines and compact structure, can meet the compact structure of the garment material to the maximum extent, and is beneficial to reducing washing deformation of a washing machine; the loose tissue has few interweaving points and long float length, and the warp or weft is in a loose state. According to the requirements, the connecting part between the tight tissue and the loose tissue is gradually transited, and the layering sense of the positive and negative lattices is obtained from tightness to looseness or from tightness to looseness, so that the fabric is more attractive, and the clothing is more atmosphere.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of textiles, in particular to a waffle clothing fabric and a production process thereof.
Background
The waffle is a square or diamond concave-convex pattern, the front surface of the pattern is concave, the back surface of the pattern is convex, and the pattern can be regarded as a positive and negative structure with the concave-convex pattern. In order to obtain the effect of the concavo-convex pattern, the design of the warp yarn or the weft yarn is necessarily one loose and one tight.
The performance of a waffle fabric is related to the number of weave repeat yarns of the waffle weave. The larger the number of the weave circulating yarns is, the longer the floating length yarns in the fabric are, the more obvious the concave-convex transformation is, the stronger the three-dimensional appearance of the waffle fabric is, the softer the yarns are, and the better the hand feeling elasticity is. However, the floating length is too long, the yarn is easy to break, the dimensional stability is poor, the fastness of the fabric is seriously affected, and the use of people is inconvenient.
The waffle weave fabric is mainly used for manufacturing bedding articles, decorative articles and kitchen and bath cleaning articles, and is rarely directly used as a garment fabric due to high washing deformation rate. Therefore, the designed garment fabric has the characteristics of the concave-convex patterns of the waffle and the comfortable and compact garment fabric, can resist washing and machine washing, has good moisture absorption and air permeability, and has important application prospect when stored without deformation.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above, there is a need to provide a waffle fabric and a production process thereof, so as to solve the technical problems in the prior art that the waffle fabric has a high washing deformation rate and cannot be directly used as a fabric of a garment.
The first aspect of the invention provides a waffle garment fabric which consists of a tight weave and a loose weave; the tight tissue adopts plain weave, and the loose tissue comprises longitude and latitude float long lines, and the tight tissue and the loose tissue are gradually transited and arranged alternately.
The second aspect of the invention provides a production process of waffle garment material, which is characterized by comprising the following steps: warping, denting, weaving and finishing; wherein,
the weaving steps are as follows: adopting copper pricking rings, wherein the pricking pins are 0.75mm long, and the number of the rings is 36; the weaving warp position line is controlled to be higher, and the back beam is 6-10 cm higher than the weaving opening; the machining process parameters are set as follows: the speed of a loom is 480-500 r/min, the on-machine tension is 2300-2700N, the leveling time is 280-300 degrees, the back beam position is at front and back NO. 9/height (20), the warp stopping frame position is at front and back NO. 2-10/height 10, the heald frame height of pages 1-14 is 106mm.110mm.104.5mm.110mm.103mm.110mm.102mm.110mm.101mm.110mm.100mm.110mm +112mm pages 2 respectively, the large blade a value of the opening amount is as follows: 50 mm-30 mm (page 1-4) +42 mm-34 mm (page 5-8) +34 mm-34 mm (page 10-12) +50mm.40mm, let-off amount is 310 ° -up; the main jet pressure is 0.27-0.3 MPa, the auxiliary jet pressure is 0.37-0.40 MPa, the main jet opening and closing time is fixed at 75-170 degrees, the main jet opening and closing time is moved at 80-160 degrees, the weft stop pin is moved at 60-270 degrees, and the auxiliary jet average jet time is 80 '-83'.
The production process of the waffle garment material provided by the second aspect of the invention is used for producing the waffle garment material provided by the first aspect of the invention.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
the tight weave of the invention adopts plain weave, has more interweaving points, short floating long lines and compact structure, can meet the compact structure of the garment material to the maximum extent, and is beneficial to reducing washing deformation of a washing machine; the loose weave has few interweaving points and long float length, and the warp yarn or the weft yarn is in a loose state. According to the requirements, the connection part between the tight tissue and the loose tissue is gradually transited, and the layering sense of the positive and negative lattices is obtained from tightness to looseness or from tightness to tightness, so that the fabric is more attractive, and the dress is more atmosphere. The waffle clothing fabric is formed by simply interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns, floating long lines with different degrees of elasticity and lengths are obtained by changing the tissue points, a waffle pattern effect with the advantages of being concave and convex is formed, the structure is simple, the effect is obvious, the cost is low, and the waffle clothing fabric is convenient to produce in batches and put on the market.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a magic cube lattice type structure;
FIG. 2 is a waffle weave diagram of a waffle garment fabric according to the invention;
FIG. 3 is a drawing of the pattern on the waffle fabric.
FIG. 4 is a top view of a waffle garment fabric provided by the invention;
FIG. 5 is a diagram of a blank of a waffle garment fabric according to example 1 of the invention;
FIG. 6 is a washing view of a waffle garment fabric according to example 1 of the invention;
FIG. 7 is a diagram of a finished product of a waffle garment fabric according to example 1 of the invention;
FIG. 8 is a waffle weave pattern of a waffle garment panel as provided in comparative example 2;
FIG. 9 is a waffle weave pattern as a waffle garment fabric provided in comparative example 3.
Detailed Description
In order to make the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention more apparent, the present invention is further described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings and embodiments. It should be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are merely illustrative of the invention and are not intended to limit the invention.
In a first aspect of the invention, a waffle garment fabric is provided that is comprised of a tight weave and a loose weave. The tight weave adopts plain weave, and the loose weave consists of warp and weft float long lines. The tight weave fabric is thinner and the loose weave fabric is thicker, so that a convex-concave pattern is formed on the surface of the fabric. Referring to fig. 1, the tight tissues and the loose tissues are gradually and transitionally arranged alternately, and arranged according to a magic cube lattice pattern, so as to form a layout in which the tight tissues are surrounded by the loose tissues or the loose tissues are surrounded by the tight tissues. Please refer to fig. 2, the black lattice part is warp floating long lines, the gray lattice part is weft floating long lines, a plain weave is embedded between the warp floating long lines and the weft floating long lines, floating long lines opposite to each other are formed on the upper surface and the lower surface or the left surface and the right surface of the plain weave by taking the floating long lines as boundaries, so that the surface of the fabric is convex or concave, and the pattern effect of the waffle lattice law is formed. In the invention, the float yarn is arranged on the warp (weft) yarn of plain weave, in the non-pattern area, the warp (weft) yarn with float yarn participates in plain weave interweaving, in the pattern area, the original plain weave interweaving rule becomes a yarn section with certain float. The plain weave structure is compact, the yarns are not easy to slide, and the floating long yarns have internal stress which tends to be straightened, so that the yarns are changed in position, thereby forming a special weave effect and meeting the performance requirements of the clothing fabric. The distribution of the floes in one tissue cycle is shown in figure 1. The warp float length is equal to 1/2+1 of the sum of the weft numbers in the areas 1 and 4, and the weft float length is equal to 1/2 of the sum of the warp numbers in the areas 2 and 3. The loose tissue is in an octagonal floating long line structure, the floating long lines are connected by plain weave, and the middle point of the floating long line is divided by the plain weave in equal parts. The beneficial effects are that: the plain weave is integrally connected to form a stable structure, so that the requirement of the clothing fabric is met, and the dimensional stability is enhanced; the float yarn improves the performance of the fabric, has obvious appearance effect and absorbs moisture and is soft.
According to the scheme, the raw material selection of the yarn mainly comprises medium-coarse yarn which is coarse, the larger the recovery potential energy contained after buckling deformation is, the better the yarn selection range is between 10tex and 36 tex. In the implementation mode of the invention, the warp yarns adopt pure cotton ring spinning carding C32 doubled yarns, and the weft yarns adopt pure cotton air spinning OE16 single yarns. The invention adopts the medium and thick yarns with relatively low cost to ensure that the simple fabric turns gorgeously, becomes a new and fashionable dressing with a special delicate wearing mechanism, has simple and applicable technology and has larger market space.
According to the scheme, the warp density of the grey cloth is 92-98/inch, and preferably 96/inch; the weft density is 55 to 60 inches/inch, preferably 58 inches/inch, and the cloth width is 270 to 280cm, preferably 275cm. The gram weight of the waffle garment fabric blank is 190-280 g/m 2 Preferably 241.5g/m 2 。
In the present invention, the warp yarns of the elastic weave have an average number of 27 yarns/lattice, and the weft yarns have an average number of 14 yarns/lattice. The loose tissue consists of warp float length and weft float length, and as shown in a figure 1, a region 1.4 shows the warp float length, the number of transverse roots is 27 roots/grid, and the number of longitudinal roots is 14+1=15 roots/grid (+ 1 is a float length axis). The 2.3 area is weft float length, transverse number of roots is 27/grid, and longitudinal number of roots is 14+1=15 roots/grid (+ 1). The longitude and latitude float lines and the blocking tissue are gradually transited and arranged alternately, and the transition tissue = transversely decreased float length times =4. Within this range, the present invention has the best overall performance.
Furthermore, the grid size of the grey cloth is 6-8 mm, and the grid size of the finished product is 4-6 mm. In an embodiment of the invention, the greige goods has a longitudinal grid size = 14/58/inch 2.54/10 =6.1mm, and the transverse longitudinal grid size = 27/96/inch 2.54/10 =7.1mm. The resulting finished cell size was length by width =4.69 by 5.07mm.
Because the fabric structure is loose and tight, the plain weave size needs to be strictly controlled in order to further reduce the shrinkage. The plain weave stable structure blocks the waffle-soft float long line structure. The tight weave is a plain weave blocking weave, the number of longitudinal blocking is 13, and the number of transverse blocking is 27; further, the size of the grey cloth blocking is 5-8 mm. In an embodiment of the invention, the longitudinal blocking dimension = 13/58/inch 2.54 × 10=5.69mm, the transverse blocking dimension = 27/96/inch 2.54 × 10=7.1mm, and the transition dimension =4/58 × 2.54 = 10=1.75mm to 4/96 × 2.54 = 10= 1.06mm. Yarn diameter =0.045 √ 36.4=0.271mm, with transition dimensions 4-7 times the yarn size.
Generally, the longer the floats of the fabric in one weave cycle, the softer the yarn, the better the skin-friendly effect, but at the same time too long floats will also lead to increased fabric shrinkage. In the prior art, the float length line of the fabric is controlled within 10 yarns, and five satins and eight satins are common. The length of the float length line is controlled to enable the skin-friendly effect and the shrinkage rate of the fabric to be maintained at a good level, and the shrinkage rate of the fabric is reduced by selecting a shorter float length line. In the application, the tight weave is selected from plain weave, the loose weave is selected from ultra-long floating long lines, and the waffle size and the waffle spacing (the waffle size and the blocking size) are strictly controlled, so that the fabric has a good skin-friendly effect and the shrinkage rate is obviously reduced.
The effect of the plain weave in the over-length float weave is enhanced by simply understanding the reduced ratio of the number of yarns used in the open weave to the tight weave. Taking the waffle reinforced plain weave as an example, the weft float length is 27 pieces/lattice longest, the warp float length is 15 pieces/lattice longest, and because the plain weave with similar number is adopted for reinforcement, the ratio of the number of yarns is close to 1. The increase of the number of plain weave leads to the deviation of the diagonal line of the float-length weave, and the diagonal line of the over-long float-length line weave is considered to be divided into two equal parts of the center line of the float-length line. The beneficial effect of reinforcing plain weave in an ultra long float thread weave is understood to be a plain ground weave scrim, the entire fabric being in a plain weave as a stable layout, while achieving much more float threads than the honeycomb weave floats.
The invention provides a production process of waffle garment material, which comprises the following steps: s1, warping; s2, reeding; s3, weaving; and S4, finishing.
S1 warping
A GA163C type sectional warper was used. Double-shaft warping, wherein 5232 warping heads are wound on a beam, 374 warps are wound on the upper row, the total production is carried out for 14 times, and 370 warps are wound on the upper row at the last time; the reed number of the fixed-width reed is 10.1 teeth/cm, each reed is penetrated by 4, the strand width is 90-95 mm, preferably 93.5mm, the width of the warp beam is 1300-1350 mm, preferably 1310mm, and the climbing displacement of the screw rod is 1.8-2 mm, preferably 1.875mm.
During the warping process, C32S/2 strand tension 65cN and slice yarn tension 238.5N were set. When the warping speed is 330m/min, the self-weight tension of warp yarns of the warping bobbin is large, and 9-11 broken ends of million warns are warped. After the end is broken, the tension in the front area of the bobbin creel is high, and the normal production is influenced by starting the end breaking. The yarn winding tension of the back area of the bobbin creel is adjusted to be 5-10 cN, the tension of the front area is reduced to be 50cN, and the production is normally carried out. The tension of the yarn is 183.4N in normal production, and the warping speed is 280-300 m/min. The warping adopts the process principle of 'low tension, medium speed and uniform winding', reduces warp doubling, twisting and floating, and improves the good beam rate of warp beams.
S2 reeding
Delta110 automatic drawing-in machine is used. Referring to fig. 4, according to the law of the float length line settlement, the warp float length is threaded in the area a, and the weft float length is threaded in the area B. Zone A is arranged according to the sequence of 1.3.5.7+ (9.11) × 9+9.7.5.3.1 by a threading method, wherein, the heald frames of page 1.3.5.7 on the left penetrate into transition tissues, and each transition float length is increased by one tissue point; the heald frames of the right 7.5.3.1 pages penetrate into the transition structure, and each transition floating length is decreased by one structure point; 9.11 pages of heald frames penetrate the longest warp float length, and the number of the warp yarns is 18 in 9 cycles; because the design adopts mirror image patterns, 11 is followed by 9, so the longest warp float length is 19. Zone B is arranged by a penetrating method like zone A according to the sequence of 2.4.6.8+ (10.12) + 9+10.8.6.4.2, wherein increasing patterns penetrate 2.4.6.8 pages of heald frames; the decreasing pattern 8.6.4.2 penetrates into the leaf heald frame; 10.12 pages of heald frames penetrate the longest weft float length, and the number of the heald frames is 9 for circulation and 18; 12 are followed by 10 with the longest weft float equal to 19. The waffle clothing fabric needs to be designed with a selvedge on a 13.14 th heald frame of an independent heald frame, the width of the left selvedge and the right selvedge is 13mm, the fabric tissue adopts 2/2 weft weight flattening, the tightness of the selvedge is close to the waffle tightness, and the selvedge is ensured not to be loose and curled. The grey cloth is woven by adopting a reed with the specification of 89 teeth/2 inches, and each reed penetrates 2 inches.
S3 weaving
And weaving the garment fabric by using a Jintian colt ZAX-9100-340 type air jet loom. The weaving tightness is high, the cloth cover shakes violently, the length of the pricking pin of the common plastic temple pricking ring is 0.38-0.52 mm, the ring number is 33 rings, however, in the production process, the inventor finds that the temple position galling defect is difficult to repair. The long-side support copper pricking rings are selected, the length of the pricking pins is 0.75mm, the number of the rings is 36, the holding force of the temple is increased, and the position galling defect of the temple is eliminated, so that normal weaving is facilitated. The holding force of the temple is further increased, and when the length of the felting needle reaches 1mm, the selvage has obvious needle path defects. The back beam is higher than the cloth fell by 2-4 cm, the position line of the waffle weaving warp is controlled to be higher, the back beam is higher than the cloth fell by 6-10 cm, the tension difference of the upper and lower layers of warp is increased, the warp with small tension is bent, the fabric structure phase is improved, the weft is convenient to tighten, and the severe broken ends of the warp with large tension are found when the tension difference of the warp is further increased, so that the normal weaving cannot be realized. The technical parameters of the waffle clothing fabric on the machine are set as the speed of the loom is 480-500 r/min, preferably 490r/min, the tension of the loom is 2300-2700N, preferably 2500N, the heald leveling time is 280-300 degrees, preferably 290 degrees, the back beam is positioned at the front and back NO. 9/height (20), the warp stopping frame is positioned at the front and back NO. 2-10/height 10, the heald frame height of 1-14 pages is 106mm.110mm.104.5mm.110mm.103mm.110mm.102mm.110101mm.110mm.100mm.110mm +112mm pages 1122, and the large blade a value of the opening amount is as follows: 50 mm-30 mm (page 1-4) +42 mm-34 mm (page 5-8) +34 mm-34 mm (page 10-12) +50mm.40mm, let-off amount is 310 ° -up; the main jet pressure is 0.27-0.3 MPa, preferably 0.28MPa, the auxiliary jet pressure is 0.37-0.40 MPa, preferably 0.38MPa, the main jet opening and closing time is fixed at 75-170 degrees, the main jet opening and closing time is moved at 80-160 degrees, the weft stop pin is moved at 60-270 degrees, and the average jet time of the auxiliary jet is 80 ' -83 ', preferably 81 '. In the weaving process, the air injection pressure is properly improved, and the flying position of weft yarns is favorably reached.
The weft pattern is obtained by changing the pattern layout, the pattern layout is divided into an area A and an area B, the areas A and B are in scattered recombination and are mutually staggered, and the cloth cover tension can be balanced. The specific process of the heald frame threading method and the pattern plate is shown in fig. 3 and 4.
S4 arrangement
Soaking the fabric twice at normal temperature, boiling the fabric in a working solution for 1 to 3 hours, preferably 2 hours after dewatering, washing the fabric for 2 to 3 times by using water at the temperature of between 90 and 98 ℃, and stirring the fabric for 30 to 40min, preferably 40min, frequently 2 to 3 times, preferably 2 times; the steam setting time is 30-60 min, preferably 45min, and the frequency is 1-2 times, preferably 1 time. And then drying by using a Y802 type constant-temperature drying box to obtain the concave-convex waffle effect. In the process, the working solution comprises the following components: 15-25 g/L of sodium hydroxide, preferably 20g/L, the concentration of sodium chloride is 0.8-1.5 g/L, preferably 1g/L, the bath ratio is 1: (20 to 40), preferably 1.
The finishing is a process of releasing the recovery of the internal stress of the yarn after buckling deformation generated by mechanical striking in the weaving process, partial tension can be released through washing, and partial tension can also be released through extrusion and folding, so that the washing size change rate of the finished waffle-grid garment material after shaping can meet the requirement.
Referring to fig. 5-7, the finished fabric has a gram weight of 210-260 g/m 2 Preferably 232.6g/m 2 The strength at break in the warp direction is 1000 to 1100cN/5 x 20cm, preferably 1029cN/5 x 20cm, and the elongation at break is 30 to 38%, preferably 34.6%; the weft breaking strength is 450 to 480cN/5 x 20cm, preferably 463.5cN/5 x 20cm, and the breaking elongation is 15 to 20%, preferably 17%.
The production process of the waffle garment material provided by the second aspect of the invention is used for producing the waffle garment material provided by the first aspect of the invention.
In the process, the warp yarns are unwound by adopting cone yarns with the same size and are subjected to batch bobbin changing, and the yarns on the bobbin creel sequentially penetrate from the upper layer to the lower layer from the center of the back reed to the outside. The central line of the spindle seat is adjusted to be positioned 15mm below the vertical yarn guide hole, so that the unwinding tension difference of the cone yarn is reduced. The yarn guide distance for unwinding the cone yarn is adjusted to be between 140 and 250mm, and the inertia force and the friction force of an unwinding balloon are overcome. The warp arrangement has multiple ends and few axes, reduces the arrangement distance and reduces the transverse range. The fixed-width reed transversely moves 0.1-0.5 left and right, the frequency is 5-30 seconds, and the overlapping of the winding of the warp beam is avoided. The warping is not subjected to slashing, the good beam rate of the warp beam reaches 95.1%, the warp beam can be directly reeded and woven, the slashing cost can be saved, and the process flow is simplified.
Example 1
The embodiment provides a waffle garment fabric which is composed of a tight tissue and a loose tissue. The warp adopts pure cotton ring spinning carding C32 doubled yarns, and the weft adopts pure cotton air spinning OE16 single yarns; the average number of the warp yarns of the elastic weave is 27/lattice, and the average number of the weft yarns of the elastic weave is 14And/grid. The tight weave is a plain weave blocking weave, 13 yarns for longitudinal blocking are used for longitudinal blocking, and 27 yarns for transverse blocking are used for transverse blocking; the loose tissue is composed of warp and weft float long lines. As shown in fig. 1, the area 1.4 is the warp floating length, the number of transverse roots is 27/grid, and the number of longitudinal roots is 14+1=15 roots/grid (+ 1 is floating length axis); the 2.3 area is weft floating length, the number of transverse roots is 27/grid, the number of longitudinal roots is 14+1=15 roots/grid (+ 1); 4 of the transitional tissues were selected. The warp density of the grey cloth is 96 pieces/inch, the weft density is 58 pieces/inch, the cloth width is 275cm, and the gram weight of the blank of the waffle garment fabric is 241.5g/m 2 . Longitudinal grid size = 14/58/inch by 2.54 by 10=6.1mm, transverse grid size = 27/96/inch by 2.54 by 10=7.1mm; block tissue longitudinal block size = 13/58/inch 2.54 × 10=5.69mm, transverse block size = 27/96/inch 2.54 × 10=7.1mm, transition size =4/58 × 2.54 × 10=1.75mm to 4/96 × 2.54 × 10= 1.06mm.
The waffle garment fabric is obtained through the following steps:
(1) Warping machine
A GA163C type sectional warper was used. Double-shaft warping, wherein 5232 warping heads are arranged on a beam, 374 warps are arranged in an upper row, the total production is carried out for 14 times, and 370 warps are arranged in the upper row in the last time; the reed number of a fixed-width reed is 10.1 teeth/cm, each reed is penetrated by 4, the strand width is 93.5mm, the width of a warp beam is 1310mm, the climbing displacement of a screw rod is 1.875mm, the yarn winding tension in the rear area of a bobbin creel is 10cN, the front area tension is 50cN, the yarn slicing tension is 183.4N, and the warping speed is 300m/min.
The warp yarns are unwound by adopting cone yarns with the same size, and are changed into the bobbins in batches, and the yarns on the bobbin creel sequentially penetrate from the upper layer to the lower layer according to the sequence from the center of the back reed to the outside. The central line of the spindle seat is adjusted to be vertically 15mm below the yarn guide hole, and the yarn guide distance of unwinding of the cone yarn is between 140 and 250 mm. The warp arrangement has multiple ends and less shafts, the arrangement distance is shortened, and the transverse range is reduced. The fixed-width reed transversely moves 0.1-0.5 left and right, the frequency is 5-30 seconds, and the overlapping of the winding of the warp beam is avoided.
(2) Reeding
Delta110 automatic drawing-in machine is used. Referring to fig. 4, according to the float length line settlement rule, the warp float length is threaded in the area a, and the weft float length is threaded in the area B. The area A is arranged according to the sequence of 1.3.5.7+ (9.11) +9.7.5.3.1 by a threading method, wherein, the heald frames of the left 1.3.5.7 pages penetrate into the transition tissue, and each transition floating length is increased by one tissue point; the right heald frame with 7.5.3.1 pages penetrates into the transition structure, and each transition floating length is decreased by one structure point; 9.11 pages of heald frames penetrate the longest warp float length, and the number of the warp yarns is 18 in 9 cycles; the design adopts mirror image pattern, and the longest warp floats in the length of 19 yarns because the design adopts mirror image pattern and the design is followed by the warp yarns 11 and 9 yarns. Zone B is arranged by a penetrating method like zone A according to the sequence of 2.4.6.8+ (10.12) + 9+10.8.6.4.2, wherein increasing patterns penetrate 2.4.6.8 pages of heald frames; a step-down pattern 8.6.4.2 penetrates into the leaf heald frame; 10.12 pages of heald frames penetrate the longest weft float length, and the number of the heald frames is 9 for circulation and 18; 12 followed by 10 and having a longest weft float equal to 19. The waffle clothing fabric needs to be designed with a selvedge on a 13.14 th heald frame of an independent heald frame, the width of the left selvedge and the right selvedge is 13mm, the fabric tissue adopts 2/2 weft weight flattening, the tightness of the selvedge is close to the waffle tightness, and the selvedge is ensured not to be loose and curled. The grey cloth is woven by adopting a reed with the specification of 89 teeth/2 inches, and each reed penetrates 2 inches.
(3) Weaving
And weaving the garment fabric by using a Jintian colt ZAX-9100-340 type air jet loom. Selecting long-side copper-supported pricking rings, wherein the length of each pricking pin is 0.75mm, and the number of the rings is 36; the back beam is 6-10 cm higher than the cloth fell; the technological parameters of the loom are set as 490r/min of the speed of the loom, 2500N of the tension of the loom, 290 DEG of the leveling time, 9/height (20) of the front and back No. 2-10/height of the back beam, 10 of the front and back No. 2-10/height of the warp stop frame, 2-14 th pages of heald frames are 106mm.110mm.104.5mm.110mm.103mm.110mm.102mm.110mm.101mm.110mm.100mm.110mm +112mm pages of 2, and the a value of the large blade of the opening amount is as follows: 50 mm-30 mm (page 1-4) +42 mm-34 mm (page 5-8) +34 mm-34 mm (page 10-12) +50mm.40mm, let-off amount is 310 ° -up; the main jet pressure is 0.28MPa, the auxiliary jet pressure is 0.38MPa, the opening and closing time of the main jet is fixed to be 75-170 degrees, the opening and closing time of the main jet is moved to be 80-160 degrees, the weft stop pin is 60-270 degrees, and the average jet time of the auxiliary jet is 81'.
(4) Finishing
Soaking the fabric twice at normal temperature, boiling the fabric in a working solution for 2 hours after dewatering, washing the fabric for 2 times by using water at 90-98 ℃, and stirring for 40min at a frequency of 2 times; steam setting time is 45min, and frequency is 1. And then drying the wafer by using a Y802 type constant-temperature drying oven to obtain the concave-convex waffle effect. In the process, the working solution comprises the following components: 20g/L of sodium hydroxide, 1g/L of sodium chloride, and the bath ratio of 1:1:30.
The gram weight of the finished fabric is 232.6g/m 2 Warp breaking strength of 1029cN/5 x 20cm and breaking elongation of 34.6 percent; weft breaking strength was 463.5cN/5 x 20cm, and elongation at break was 17%.
Comparative example 1
This comparative example differs from example 1 in that: the warp yarns and the weft yarns adopt pure cotton ring spinning carding C32 doubled yarns.
Comparative example 2
Referring to fig. 8, the comparative example differs from example 1 in that: the average number of yarns for the warp yarns of the elastic weave is 25/lattice, and the average number of yarns for the weft yarns is 13/lattice; the tight tissue is a plain tissue, the number of longitudinal blocking roots is 11, the number of transverse blocking roots is 23, the loose tissue is the same as that in the embodiment 1, the number of transverse roots is 27 per lattice through the floating length, and the number of longitudinal roots is 14+1=15 per lattice; the weft floating length is 27 transverse roots/lattice, and the longitudinal roots are 14+1=15 roots/lattice; 5 of the transitional tissues were selected.
Comparative example 3
Referring to fig. 9, the comparative example differs from example 1 in that: the average number of the yarns for the warp yarns of the elastic weave is 29/lattice, and the average number of the yarns for the weft yarns is 15/lattice; the tight tissue is a plain tissue, the number of longitudinal blocking roots is 15, the number of transverse blocking roots is 31, the loose tissue is the same as that in the embodiment 1, the number of transverse roots is 27 per lattice through the floating length, and the number of longitudinal roots is 14+1=15 per lattice; the weft floating length is 27 transverse roots/lattice, and the longitudinal roots are 14+1=15 roots/lattice; 4 of the transitional tissues were selected.
Comparative example 4
The comparative example differs from example 1 in that: in the weaving process, the selected thorn rings are plastic temple thorn rings, the length of the thorn needles is 0.48mm, and the number of the rings is 33.
Comparative example 5
This comparative example differs from example 1 in that: in the weaving process, the selected thorn rings are copper temple thorn rings, the length of the thorn needles is 0.85mm, and the number of the rings is 38.
Comparative example 6
This comparative example differs from example 1 in that: in the weaving process, the back beam is 5cm higher than the cloth fell.
Comparative example 7
This comparative example differs from example 1 in that: in the weaving process, the back beam is 12cm higher than the cloth fell.
The fabrics obtained in example 1 according to the present invention and comparative examples 1 to 8 were tested according to the national standards, and the results are shown in Table 1.
TABLE 1
TABLE 2
| Weaving defect rate (%) | Weaving efficiency (%) | |
| Example 1 | 4.23 | 88.1 |
| Comparative example 4 | 15.7 | 67.2 |
| Comparative example 5 | 9.11 | 78.5 |
| |
5.26 | 81.3 |
| Comparative example 7 | 10.07 | 66.6 |
While the invention has been described with reference to specific preferred embodiments, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications may be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined in the following claims.
Claims (5)
1. The production process of the waffle clothing fabric is characterized in that the waffle clothing fabric consists of a tight tissue and a loose tissue; the tight tissue adopts plain weave, the loose tissue consists of longitude and latitude float long lines, and the tight tissue and the loose tissue are gradually transited and arranged alternately; the loose tissue is in an octagonal floating long line structure, the floating long lines are connected through plain weave, and the plain weave bisects the middle point of the floating long line; the average number of the yarns for the warp yarns of the loose weave and the average number of the yarns for the weft yarns of the tight weave are 27/lattice, and the average number of the yarns for the weft yarns of the loose weave and the tight weave is 14/lattice; the transverse root number of the warp floating length of the loose tissue is 27 per lattice, and the longitudinal root number of the loose tissue is 15 per lattice; the weft floating length of the loose tissue has 27 transverse roots/lattice and the longitudinal root number is 15 roots/lattice; 4 transitional tissues; the number of the longitudinal blocking roots of the tight tissue is 13, and the number of the transverse blocking roots of the tight tissue is 27; the warp yarns adopt pure cotton ring spinning carding C32 doubled yarns, and the weft yarns adopt pure cotton air spinning OE16 single yarns; the production process of the waffle garment fabric comprises the following steps: warping, denting, weaving and finishing; wherein,
the weaving steps are specifically as follows: adopting copper pricking rings, wherein the pricking pins are 0.75mm long, and the number of the rings is 36; controlling the weaving warp position line to be higher, wherein the back beam is higher than a weaving opening by 6 to 10cm; the operating process parameters are set as follows: the speed of a loom is 480 to 500r/min, the upper machine tension is 2300 to 2700N, the leveling time is 280 to 300 degrees, the front and back NO. 9/height of a back beam position is 20, the front and back NO.2 to 10/height of a warp stopping frame position is 10, the heights of heald frames 1 to 14 pages are 106mm, 110mm, 104.5mm, 110mm, 103mm, 110mm, 102mm, 110mm, 101mm, 110mm, 100mm, 110mm and 112mm pages 2 respectively, and the large blade a value of the opening amount is as follows: pages 1 to 4: 50 mm-30mm on pages 5 to 8: 42 mm-34mm < 10 > -12 pages: 34 mm-34mm +50mm, 40mm, let-off amount is 310 degrees-up; the main jet pressure is 0.27 to 0.3MPa, the auxiliary jet pressure is 0.37 to 0.40MPa, the fixed main jet opening and closing time is 75 to 170 degrees, the moving main jet opening and closing time is 80 to 160 degrees, the wefting stopping pin is 60 to 270 degrees, and the auxiliary nozzle average jet time is 80 to 83 degrees.
2. The production process of the waffle garment material according to claim 1, wherein the warp density of the grey cloth is 92 to 98/inch, the weft density is 55 to 60/inch, and the cloth width is 270 to 280cm.
3. The production process of the waffle garment fabric according to claim 1, wherein the warping step specifically comprises: adopting double-shaft warping, wherein 5232 warping heads are arranged on each beam, 374 warps are arranged in an upper row, the production is carried out for 14 times, and 370 warps are arranged in an upper row in the last time; the reed number of a fixed-width reed is 10.1 teeth/cm, each reed is penetrated by 4, the stranding width is 90 to 95mm, the beam width is 1300 to 1350mm, and the climbing displacement of a screw rod is 1.8 to 2mm; the winding tension of the rear area of the creel is 5 to 10cN, the front area tension is reduced to 50cN, the yarn slicing tension is 183.4N, and the warping speed is 280 to 300m/min.
4. The production process of the waffle garment fabric according to claim 1, wherein the reeding step specifically comprises: according to the floating length line settlement rule, the warp floating length penetrates in the area A, and the weft floating length penetrates in the area B;
zone A is arranged according to the sequence of 1.3.5.7+ (9.11) × 9+9.7.5.3.1 by a threading method, wherein, the heald frames of page 1.3.5.7 on the left penetrate into transition tissues, and each transition float length is increased by one tissue point; the heald frames of the right 7.5.3.1 pages penetrate into the transition structure, and each transition floating length is decreased by one structure point; 9.11 pages of heald frames penetrate the longest warp float length, and the number of the warp yarns is 18 in 9 cycles; because the design adopts mirror image patterns, and 9 are connected behind 11, the longest warp float length is 19;
zone B is arranged by a penetrating method like zone A according to the sequence of 2.4.6.8+ (10.12) + 9+10.8.6.4.2, wherein increasing patterns penetrate 2.4.6.8 pages of heald frames; a step-down pattern 8.6.4.2 penetrates into the leaf heald frame; 10.12 pages of heald frames penetrate the longest weft float length, and the number of the heald frames is 9 for circulation and 18; 12 followed by 10, the longest weft float being equal to 19;
on-machine weaving of the waffle clothing fabric is required to design a selvedge, the selvedge is penetrated on a 13.14 th heald frame of an independent heald frame, the width of the left selvedge and the right selvedge is 13mm, and the fabric tissue adopts 2/2 weft weight flattening; the gray fabric is woven by adopting a reed with the specification of 89 teeth/2 inches, and each reed penetrates 2 inches.
5. The production process of waffle garment fabric according to claim 1, wherein the finishing steps specifically include: soaking the fabric twice at normal temperature, boiling the fabric in a working solution for 1 to 3 hours after water removal, washing the fabric for 2 to 3 times at 90 to 98 ℃, and stirring for 30 to 40min at a frequency of 2 to 3 times; setting with steam for 30 to 60min at a frequency of 1 to 2; then drying to obtain the concave-convex waffle effect; the working solution comprises the following components: 15-25g/L of sodium hydroxide, 0.8-1.5 g/L of sodium chloride, and the bath ratio of 1: (20 to 40).
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