CN109825930B - Design method and weaving process of local looped concave-convex small jacquard fabric - Google Patents
Design method and weaving process of local looped concave-convex small jacquard fabric Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
The invention discloses a design method and a weaving process of a local looped concave-convex small jacquard fabric, wherein the local looped concave-convex small jacquard fabric is woven on an SGA598 type sample loom, a thin stick is inserted to support yarn looping, and after a fabric is taken off to set a looped pile, the thin stick is pulled off to form the looped pile. The looping warps are independently heald each time, so that the fabric can be looped locally, and the shape and the position of the looping pattern are freely controllable. In the structure design, the looped part adopts towel structure, the non-looped part is double-layer structure, and the honeycomb structure with strong concave-convex sense is also provided. On the aspect of color matching design, gradually changing red and gradually changing blue flowers are adopted, and white is ground. During weaving, reeding adopts a flower-through method to ensure that the looped patterns of the convex parts are full, the honeycombs of the concave parts are gradually transited, and the double-layer ground fabric is fine and compact; the oblique weft effect formed by inserting the thin stick is utilized to ensure that the flower type outline has smooth curve feeling.
Description
Technical Field
The invention particularly relates to a design method and a weaving process of a local looped concave-convex small jacquard fabric.
Background
The jacquard fabric is widely applied to the clothing industry, the home textile fabric industry, the home decoration industry, the ornament processing industry and the building industry, and the jacquard process is a weaving process which utilizes one kind of tissue as a bottom, displays a pattern on the other kind of tissue or a plurality of kinds of tissues simultaneously, and represents the pattern image by regular sinking, floating and lifting of warp and weft yarns, and is mutually supported by the performance of fibers, the form of yarn counts, the change of the tissue of the fabric, the third color flash effect generated by the mutual staggering of color warps and color wefts and the like. The jacquard pattern design, yarn design and tissue design are the main indexes of the product.
Disclosure of Invention
The purpose of the invention is as follows: in order to overcome the defects of the prior art, the invention provides a design method and a weaving process of a local looped concave-convex small jacquard fabric.
The technical scheme is as follows: a design method of a local looped concave-convex small jacquard fabric comprises the following design steps:
(1) design of patterns and colors
The pattern of the product is in a geometrical block shape and a rhombus shape, the yarn is looped to form a block-shaped pattern with gradually changed size, the positions of the block-shaped pattern are staggered, and the stiff line sense is broken through; the two rhombuses are a group which is matched with the square patterns; the left and right flowers form a pair of flowers, a honeycomb tissue with a concave-convex effect is arranged in the middle, the red gradual change is arranged on the left flower, the blue gradual change is arranged on the right flower, and the rest flowers are white, so that the fabric has a lively, small and fresh embossment feeling;
(2) tissue design
The looping pattern adopts a four-weft towel weave, which is beneficial to yarn looping, the warp yarn of the weave is divided into two systems, the looping warp yarn is gradually red and blue, and the ground warp yarn is white, so that the looping pattern is colored; the middle of the left flower and the right flower adopts 8 variable honeycomb textures, a square concave-convex small pattern with a high side, a low side and a high side is formed, the pattern is all white, the other part adopts a double-layer texture, in order to highlight the patterns which gradually change into red and blue, the part which does not flower is white, so the double-layer texture is adopted, two systems of weft yarn are both white in color, two systems of warp yarn are respectively in color change and white, the color warp yarn loops to form the patterns during the flower forming, when the flower forming is not needed, the color warp yarn and the white weft yarn form a lower fabric layer, and the white warp yarn and the white weft yarn form an upper fabric layer;
(3) design of the process
a. The yarn specifications were as follows:
the warp yarn has seven colors of white, light red, dark red, light blue, blue and dark blue, which are 14.6tex 2 (40)S2) pure cotton plied yarn; the weft yarn is a white yarn, also 14.6tex 2 (40)S2) pure cotton plied yarn;
b. the color matching circulation of the warp and weft yarns is as follows:
warp yarn: 24 white 4 red 48 white (1 white 1 light red) × 16(1 white 1 dark red) × 1648 white (bilayer) 32 white (honeycomb) 48 white (bilayer) (1 white 1 dark blue) × 16(1 white 1 light blue) × 1648 white 4 blue 24 white; wherein, the bold part of the font is two flowers on the left and the right, and the total number of the warps is 472;
weft yarn: a color is white;
c. drafting sequence:
(1、2)*14(3、4、5、6)*12(7、8、5、6)*24(3、4、5、6)*12(9、10、11、12、13、14、11、15)*4(3、4、5、6)*12(7、8、5、6)*24(3、4、5、6)*12(1、2)*14；
the number of drafting loops is 472;
d. designing the penetration number of each reed dent:
the warp density of the looped part, the double-layer part and the honeycomb part of the fabric is different, and a pattern-through method is adopted during reeding, namely the ratio of the number of penetration of each part is equal to the ratio of the warp density; in order to ensure that looped part looped pile is dense and the pattern is full, the number of the reeds penetrated is 4; the double-layer part requires that the upper and lower layers of ground cloth are fine and smooth and stiff, the number of the reeds penetrated is 4, the honeycomb part requires that the concave-convex feeling from the bottom of the nest to the top of the nest is gradually transited, and the warp density is not too large, so the number of the reeds penetrated is 2; the cloth edge is subjected to larger acting force, and though the cloth edge is a single-layer cloth, each reed dent 4 is still adopted for penetration so as to ensure enough warp density and bear the violent weaving action.
A weaving process for the local looped concave-convex small jacquard fabric comprises the following parameters: the upper warp density of the fabric is 319 pieces/10 cm, the upper weft density is 214 pieces/10 cm, the lower warp density is 328 pieces/10 cm, the lower weft density is 222 pieces/10 cm, the warp yarn weaving shrinkage is 3.8%, the weft yarn weaving shrinkage is 2.6%, and the reed number is 58#；
The key technical measures of the weaving process are as follows:
1) warp looping
In order to make the warp yarn looped, and the looped range changes with the pattern, inserting thin sticks with different lengths to support the looped yarn when the looped part is weaved, and drawing off the thin sticks after the fabric is off the loom to form the looped pattern; in order to conveniently insert a thin stick during weaving, all warp yarns needing looping are lifted, the thin stick is inserted at the moment, weft yarns are not introduced, and the method is equivalent to idle beating one weft yarn; the looping part of the fabric adopts a four-weft towel tissue, one empty beating-up is needed between the third weft and the fourth weft in each four wefts, the total number of wefts of a card pattern reaches 569 wefts, but part of cards are repeated, in order to facilitate observation of the position of the empty beating-up, each looping pattern is provided with a card pattern, according to the up-and-down symmetry of the pattern, the calling sequence of the card pattern is card I (rhombic looping), card II (4 rows of looping patterns), card III (6 rows of looping patterns), card IV (8 rows of looping patterns), card III (6 rows of looping patterns) and card II (4 rows of looping patterns), each horizontal black tissue point in the card pattern represents one empty beating-up, warps on heald frames 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14 and 15 are lifted, and then slender sticks with different lengths are inserted according to the pattern outline;
2) warp feeding tension
Weaving on a general SGA598 type sample loom, controlling the on-machine tension of each part of warp yarns is the key of weaving, in order to adjust the tension of looped warp yarns and ground warp yarns, respectively bundling the looped warp yarns and the ground warp yarns at the rear part of the loom during weaving, and independently controlling the tension of each part of warp yarns so as to ensure that the warp yarns are clear in opening; the tension of the looped warp yarns should not be too high, otherwise the height of the looped pile will be affected; the tension of the ground warp is larger, so that the opening of the warp is clear on one hand; on the other hand, the tension difference between the looped warp and the ground warp can ensure that the let-off amount of the two warps is slightly different, which is beneficial to the formation and the stability of the looped pile;
3) curve feeling of forming pattern outline by utilizing skewing
During weaving, the looped part is inserted into the thin stick, and the thin stick is thicker than the weft yarn and is a wooden ground, so that the weft yarn inserted into the thin stick is not easy to hit a weaving opening, and the weft yarn not inserted into the thin stick is easy to hit the weaving opening, so that the weft yarn is not linear but curved, namely, oblique weft yarn; because the looped shape is gradually changed and the position is gradually changed, the length and the position of the curve are different, the straight line is fused with the curve, the rigid straight line feeling of the geometric pattern is broken through, the pattern contour is smooth and regular, the liveliness and quickness feeling of the fabric is increased, and the looped shape gradually changes with the two groups of gradually changed colors of the fabric;
4) pile loop fixing mode
After the fabric is taken off the machine, in order to prevent the deformation of the terry of the thin stick after being pulled off, before the thin stick is pulled off, a setting gel water is used for spraying the looped part, after three minutes, the thin stick is pulled off, the terry still stands, and if the terry is pressed, the terry can fall down but cannot deform.
Has the advantages that: according to the invention, local looped concave-convex small jacquard fabric is woven on a general SGA598 type sample loom, a thin stick is inserted to support yarn looping, and after the fabric is taken down to shape the looped pile, the thin stick is pulled off to form the looped pile. The looping warps are independently heald each time, so that the fabric can be looped locally, and the shape and the position of the looping pattern are freely controllable. In the structure design, the looped part adopts towel structure, the non-looped part is double-layer structure, and the honeycomb structure with strong concave-convex sense is also provided. On the aspect of color matching design, gradually changing red and gradually changing blue flowers are adopted, and white is ground. During weaving, reeding adopts a flower-through method to ensure that the looped patterns of the convex parts are full, the honeycombs of the concave parts are gradually transited, and the double-layer ground fabric is fine and compact; the oblique weft effect formed by inserting the thin stick is utilized to ensure that the flower type outline has smooth curve feeling. Through design and practice, the expected effect is achieved, and the method has a reference function for weaving the local looped concave-convex fabric on a sample loom.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a schematic structural view of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below so that those skilled in the art can better understand the advantages and features of the present invention, and thus the scope of the present invention will be more clearly defined. The embodiments described herein are only a few embodiments of the present invention, rather than all embodiments, and all other embodiments that can be derived by one of ordinary skill in the art without inventive faculty based on the embodiments described herein are intended to fall within the scope of the present invention.
Examples
The 'looping artificial' theme is taken as an example, and innovative practice is carried out on the partially looped concave-convex small jacquard fabric. The 'looping life' theme work takes various loops of modern life as design inspiration, the pattern is expressed by the three-dimensional sense of the looped pile, the three-dimensional sense of the looped part is strong, the looped part is convex, the looped part is concave, and the size and the shape of the looped pattern can be freely controlled, which is a main innovation point of the product design and is a technical difficulty point of weaving the fabric; the product has gradually changed pattern and color, and is matched with a honeycomb tissue with a concave-convex effect, so that the fabric pattern is unique and novel, the connotation is the busy life of modern people but is filled by various rings, people can hope to practice breaking and separating of the rings, the effective social contact of the people is highlighted, useless rings are reduced, and the positive energy is spread everywhere.
1 product design
The innovation of organization configuration, color design and weaving process are three innovation points of the design of the local looped concave-convex small jacquard fabric. When designing the pattern, the tissue configuration and color design need to be considered, whether the process can be realized, whether the designed fabric can achieve the expected effect, and the like. In the innovative design of the product, unique and novel fabrics can be created only by perfectly combining the realizability of the tissues, the colors and the processes.
1.1 design of patterns and colors
According to the requirements of fabric design skill competition, the competitor needs to firstly carry out product design and then finish weaving on a sample loom. The 16 pages of heald frames equipped in the sample loom make the design of pattern and pattern subject to great limitation. The pattern of the product is in a geometrical block shape and a rhombus shape, the yarn is looped to form a block-shaped pattern with gradually changed size, the positions of the block-shaped pattern are staggered, and the stiff line sense is broken through; the two rhombuses are a group which is matched with the square patterns; the left and right flowers form a pair of flowers, a honeycomb tissue with a concave-convex effect is arranged in the middle, the red gradually-changed flower is arranged on the left flower, the blue gradually-changed flower is arranged on the right flower, and the rest flowers are white, so that the fabric has a lively, small and fresh embossment feeling.
1.2 tissue design
The looping pattern adopts a four-weft towel tissue, which is beneficial to yarn looping, the warp of the tissue is divided into two systems, the looping warp is gradually red and blue, and the ground warp is white, so that the looping pattern is colored. The middle of the left and right patterns adopts 8 variable honeycomb structures to form a small concavo-convex pattern with a square shape with high edge, middle edge and low edge, and the pattern is all white. The other parts adopt double-layer structures, in order to highlight the gradually red and blue patterns, the non-flowering parts are white, so that the double-layer structures are adopted, the two systems of the weft yarn are both white in color, the two systems of the warp yarn are respectively in gradually changing color and white, the colored warp yarn forms the patterns in a looping mode during the flowering, and when the flowering is not needed, the colored warp yarn and the white weft yarn form the lower layer of the fabric, and the white warp yarn and the white weft yarn form the upper layer of the fabric.
2 design of the process
2.1 yarn size
The warp yarn has seven colors of white, light red, dark red, light blue, blue and dark blue, which are 14.6tex 2 (40)S/2) pure cotton yarn with a white weft yarn, also 14.6tex 2 (40)SAnd/2) pure cotton yarn.
2.2 warp and weft colour matching circulation
Warp yarn: 24 white 4 red 48 white (1 white 1 light red) × 16(1 white 1 dark red) × 1648 white (bilayer) 32 white (honeycomb) 48 white (bilayer) (1 white 1 dark blue) × 16(1 white 1 light blue) × 1648 white 4 blue 24 white; wherein, the bold part of the font is two flowers on the left and the right, and the total number of the warps is 472.
Weft yarn: and one color is white.
2.3 drafting sequence
(1、2)*14(3、4、5、6)*12(7、8、5、6)*24(3、4、5、6)*12(9、10、11、12、13、14、11、15)*4(3、4、5、6)*12(7、8、5、6)*24(3、4、5、6)*12(1、2)*14。
The number of drafting loops is 472.
2.4 design of penetration number per dent
The warp density of the looped part, the double-layer part and the honeycomb part of the fabric is different, and a lace method is adopted during reeding, namely the ratio of the number of the reeds of each part is equal to the ratio of the warp density. In order to ensure that looped part looped pile is dense and the pattern is full, the number of the reeds penetrated is 4; the double-layer part requires the upper and lower layers of fine and smooth ground cloth and stiff cloth, the number of the reeds penetrated is 4, the honeycomb part requires the gradual transition of the concave-convex feeling from the bottom of the nest to the top of the nest, and the warp density is not too large, so the number of the reeds penetrated is 2. The cloth edge is subjected to larger acting force, and though the cloth edge is a single-layer cloth, each reed dent 4 is still adopted for penetration so as to ensure enough warp density and bear the violent weaving action.
2.5 Fabric Process parameters
The upper warp density of the fabric is 319 pieces/10 cm, the upper weft density is 214 pieces/10 cm, the lower warp density is 328 pieces/10 cm, the lower weft density is 222 pieces/10 cm, the warp yarn weaving shrinkage is 3.8%, the weft yarn weaving shrinkage is 2.6%, and the reed number is 58#。
3 weaving key technical measures
3.1 warp looping
The method is characterized in that a towel is utilized to loop warp yarns on a special towel loom, two key technologies are needed, one is different let-off mechanisms, namely the looped warp yarns have a large let-off amount, and the ground warp yarns have a small let-off amount; the other is different beating-up modes, namely short beating-up and long beating-up are combined. If the warp yarns are looped on a sample loom, the two technical difficulties need to be overcome. Because the SGA598 type sample loom is a manual beat-up, the short beat-up and the long beat-up can be controlled, but the let-off mechanism of the sample loom cannot achieve different let-off amounts.
In order to make the warp looped and the looped range is changed with the pattern, when the looped part is weaved, thin rods with different lengths are inserted to support the looped part of the warp, and the thin rods are drawn and adjusted after the fabric is off the machine, so as to form the looped pattern. In order to conveniently insert the thin stick during weaving, all warp yarns needing to be looped are lifted, and the thin stick is inserted at the moment, but weft yarns are not introduced, which is equivalent to idle beating one weft yarn. The looped part of the fabric adopts a four-weft towel tissue, a space beating-up operation is required between the third weft and the fourth weft in each four-weft, a card pattern is shown in figure 1, the total number of the picks of the card pattern reaches 569 picks, but part of the cards are repeated, in order to observe the space beating-up position, each looped pattern is used for making a card pattern, according to the up-and-down symmetry of the patterns, the calling sequence of the cards is card I (diamond looped), card II (4 rows of looped patterns), card III (6 rows of looped patterns), card IV (8 rows of looped patterns), card III (6 rows of looped patterns) and card II (4 rows of looped patterns), each horizontal black tissue point in the card pattern represents a space beating-up operation, warps on heald frames of 4 th, 6 th, 8 th, 10 th, 12 th, 14 th and 15 th are lifted, and then slender sticks with different lengths are inserted according to the pattern profiles.
3.2 warp on-machine tension
The product needs to be woven on a general SGA598 type sample loom, the control of the on-machine tension of each part of warp yarns is the key of weaving, in order to adjust the tension of looped warp yarns and ground warp yarns, the back part of the loom is respectively bundled during weaving, and the tension of each part of warp yarns is independently controlled, so that the clear opening of the warp yarns is ensured. The tension of the looped warp yarns should not be too high, otherwise the height of the looped pile will be affected; the tension of the ground warp is larger, so that the opening of the warp is clear on one hand; on the other hand, the difference of the tension of the looped warp and the ground warp can ensure that the let-off amount of the two warps is slightly different, which is beneficial to the formation and the stability of the looped pile.
3.3 Curve feeling of Pattern outline formation by weft skew
During weaving, the looped part is inserted into the thin stick, and the thin stick is thicker than the weft yarn and is wooden, so that the part of the weft yarn inserted into the thin stick is not easy to hit the weaving opening, and the part of the weft yarn without the thin stick is easy to hit the weaving opening, so that the weft yarn is not linear but curved, and is called as skew weft. Because the looped shape is gradually changed and the position is gradually changed, the length and the position of the curve are different, the straight line is fused with the curve, the stiff straight line feeling of the geometric pattern is broken through, the pattern is smooth in outline and rhythmic, the lively and light feeling of the fabric is increased, and the looped shape gradually changes with the two groups of gradually changed colors of the fabric.
3.4 Loop fixing means
After the fabric is taken off the machine, in order to prevent the deformation of the terry of the thin stick after being pulled off, before the thin stick is pulled off, a setting gel water is used for spraying the looped part, after three minutes, the thin stick is pulled off, the terry still stands, and if the terry is pressed, the terry can fall down but cannot deform.
The innovative design of the 'twill life' theme small jacquard product, one of the innovative points is the weaving technique innovation. The looped fabric is woven on an SGA598 type sample loom, a thin stick is inserted to support yarn looping, looped warp yarns are independently heald lifted each time, only the thin stick is inserted, weft yarns are not introduced, and the realization of the empty beating-up needs to add a corresponding transverse row in a card drawing to control the heald lifting of the looped warp yarns each time. Because the length and the position of the thin stick can be freely controlled, the fabric can be partially looped, and the shape and the area size of the loop can be freely controlled. The second innovation point is the organization and configuration innovation. The looped part adopts four-weft towel organization, which is beneficial to firm clamping of the looped pile; the non-looped part is a double-layer structure, and aims to interweave the color warp yarns and the weft yarns forming looped piles to form a lower fabric layer and interweave the white warp yarns and the white weft yarns to form an upper fabric layer when the looped piles are not looped, so that the color looped pile pattern is set off on the white ground; in addition, a honeycomb weave with strong concave-convex feeling is also arranged, the weave gradually transitions from the bottom of the honeycomb to the top of the honeycomb to form a square concave-convex pattern with high and low edges, but the honeycomb weave is provided with pure white and is matched with the patterns of the colored looped piles on the left side and the right side. The third innovation point is the innovation of style and features. The color matching of the fabric takes white as ground, and is matched with gradually-changed red and blue looped pile patterns, and the looped pile shape and the position are gradually changed; by utilizing the oblique weft effect formed by inserting the thin rods, the flower type outline has smooth curve feeling, local loops of various shapes are formed, the square concave-convex patterns of the honeycomb structure are embellished, the double-layer structure is flat and thick, and the special curve effect enables the fabric to present super-strong three-dimensional sense.
According to the invention, the local looped concave-convex fabric is woven on the SGA598 type sample loom, the design difficulty, the weaving difficulty and the control difficulty of the stability of the looped pile are all high, various measures are adopted, the corresponding difficulties are effectively solved, the design and weaving of a new product are realized, the expected effect is achieved, and the method has certain reference significance for developing the new product on the sample loom. The product has unique and novel style, high technical content and high added value, is suitable for being made into handbags, small throw pillows, handicrafts, small home decoration fabrics and the like, and is widely welcomed by the market.
Claims (2)
1. A design method of a local looped concave-convex small jacquard fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: the method comprises the following design steps:
(1) design of patterns and colors
The pattern of the product is in a geometrical block shape and a rhombus shape, the yarn is looped to form a block-shaped pattern with gradually changed size, the positions of the block-shaped pattern are staggered, and the stiff line sense is broken through; the two rhombuses are a group which is matched with the square patterns; the left and right flowers form a pair of flowers, a honeycomb tissue with a concave-convex effect is arranged in the middle, the red gradual change is arranged on the left flower, the blue gradual change is arranged on the right flower, and the rest flowers are white, so that the fabric has a lively, small and fresh embossment feeling;
(2) tissue design
The looping pattern adopts a four-weft towel weave, which is beneficial to yarn looping, the warp yarn of the weave is divided into two systems, the looping warp yarn is gradually red and blue, and the ground warp yarn is white, so that the looping pattern is colored; the middle of the left flower and the right flower adopts 8 variable honeycomb textures, a square concave-convex small pattern with a high side, a low side and a high side is formed, the pattern is all white, the other part adopts a double-layer texture, in order to highlight the patterns which gradually change into red and blue, the part which does not flower is white, so the double-layer texture is adopted, two systems of weft yarn are both white in color, two systems of warp yarn are respectively in color change and white, the color warp yarn loops to form the patterns during the flower forming, when the flower forming is not needed, the color warp yarn and the white weft yarn form a lower fabric layer, and the white warp yarn and the white weft yarn form an upper fabric layer;
(3) design of the process
a. The yarn specifications were as follows:
the warp yarn has seven colors of white, light red, dark red, light blue, blue and dark blue, which are 14.6tex 2 (40)S2) pure cotton plied yarn; the weft yarn is a white yarn, also 14.6tex 2 (40)S2) pure cotton plied yarn;
b. the color matching circulation of the warp and weft yarns is as follows:
warp yarn: 24 white 4 red 48 white (1 white 1 light red) × 16(1 white 1 dark red) × 1648 white (bilayer) 32 white (honeycomb) 48 white (bilayer) (1 white 1 dark blue) × 16(1 white 1 light blue) × 1648 white 4 blue 24 white; wherein, the total number of warps is 472;
weft yarn: a color is white;
c. drafting sequence:
(1、2)*14(3、4、5、6)*12(7、8、5、6)*24(3、4、5、6)*12(9、10、11、12、13、14、11、15)*4(3、4、5、6)*12(7、8、5、6)*24(3、4、5、6)*12(1、2)*14；
the number of drafting loops is 472;
d. designing the penetration number of each reed dent:
the warp density of the looped part, the double-layer part and the honeycomb part of the fabric is different, and a pattern-through method is adopted during reeding, namely the ratio of the number of penetration of each part is equal to the ratio of the warp density; in order to ensure that looped part looped pile is dense and the pattern is full, the number of the reeds penetrated is 4; the double-layer part requires that the upper and lower layers of ground cloth are fine and smooth and stiff, the number of the reeds penetrated is 4, the honeycomb part requires that the concave-convex feeling from the bottom of the nest to the top of the nest is gradually transited, and the warp density is not too large, so the number of the reeds penetrated is 2; the cloth edge is subjected to larger acting force, and though the cloth edge is a single-layer cloth, each reed dent 4 is still adopted for penetration so as to ensure enough warp density and bear the violent weaving action.
2. The design method of the local looped concave-convex small jacquard fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the parameters of the weaving process are as follows: the upper warp density of the fabric is 319 pieces/10 cm, the upper weft density is 214 pieces/10 cm, the lower warp density is 328 pieces/10 cm, the lower weft density is 222 pieces/10 cm, the warp yarn weaving shrinkage is 3.8%, the weft yarn weaving shrinkage is 2.6%, and the reed number is 58#；
The key technical measures of the weaving process are as follows:
1) warp looping
In order to make the warp yarn looped, and the looped range changes with the pattern, inserting thin sticks with different lengths to support the looped yarn when the looped part is weaved, and drawing off the thin sticks after the fabric is off the loom to form the looped pattern; in order to conveniently insert a thin stick during weaving, all warp yarns needing looping are lifted, the thin stick is inserted at the moment, weft yarns are not introduced, and the method is equivalent to idle beating one weft yarn; this kind of fabric looped portion adopts four latitude towel tissue, needs an empty beat-up between the third latitude and the fourth latitude in every four latitudes, because the total number of picks of card pattern reaches 569 latitude, but wherein there is some card repetitions, in order to observe the position of empty beat-up, a card pattern is made to every looped pattern type, according to the symmetry about the pattern type, card pattern calling order is card pattern one: and (2) diamond looping and pattern plate II: 4, arranging a ring flower type and a pattern plate III: 6, arranging a pattern of circles and a pattern plate four: 8 rows of ring patterns and pattern plates: 6, arranging a second pattern of the ring flower type and the second pattern plate: 4 rows of patterns are formed, each horizontal black tissue point in the pattern drawing represents one-time hollow beating-up, warp yarns on heald frames 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14 and 15 are lifted, and then thin rods with different lengths are inserted according to the pattern outline;
2) warp feeding tension
Weaving on a general SGA598 type sample loom, controlling the on-machine tension of each part of warp yarns is the key of weaving, in order to adjust the tension of looped warp yarns and ground warp yarns, respectively bundling the looped warp yarns and the ground warp yarns at the rear part of the loom during weaving, and independently controlling the tension of each part of warp yarns so as to ensure that the warp yarns are clear in opening; the tension of the looped warp yarns should not be too high, otherwise the height of the looped pile will be affected; the tension of the ground warp is larger, so that the opening of the warp is clear on one hand; on the other hand, the tension difference between the looped warp and the ground warp can ensure that the let-off amount of the two warps is slightly different, which is beneficial to the formation and the stability of the looped pile;
3) curve feeling of forming pattern outline by utilizing skewing
During weaving, the looped part is inserted into the thin stick, and the thin stick is thicker than the weft yarn and is a wooden ground, so that the weft yarn inserted into the thin stick is not easy to hit a weaving opening, and the weft yarn not inserted into the thin stick is easy to hit the weaving opening, so that the weft yarn is not linear but curved, namely, oblique weft yarn; because the looped shape is gradually changed and the position is gradually changed, the length and the position of the curve are different, the straight line is fused with the curve, the rigid straight line feeling of the geometric pattern is broken through, the pattern contour is smooth and regular, the liveliness and quickness feeling of the fabric is increased, and the looped shape gradually changes with the two groups of gradually changed colors of the fabric;
4) pile loop fixing mode
After the fabric is taken off the machine, in order to prevent the deformation of the terry of the thin stick after being pulled off, before the thin stick is pulled off, a setting gel water is used for spraying the looped part, after three minutes, the thin stick is pulled off, the terry still stands, and if the terry is pressed, the terry can fall down but cannot deform.
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| CN110923937A (en) * | 2019-12-23 | 2020-03-27 | 常州道骐新材料科技有限公司 | Concave-convex pattern type effect double-layer jacquard warp-knitted fabric |
| CN111648004A (en) * | 2020-06-09 | 2020-09-11 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | Preparation method of flower faerie decorative fabric |
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